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to Cairn Point is Loch Ryan, the seat
of Sir Wm. Agnew-Wallace, a de-
scendant of the family of which the
famous Sir William was a member.
The castellated architecture here is



in the worst possible taste. At 8^
m. the Galloway Burn is crossed,
and the traveller enters Ayrshire.

10 m. , at Finnart Bay, which is
nearly opposite JMilleur Point, the
extreme end of the Rhinns of Gallo-
ivay (the hilly ridge which forms the
backbone of the promontory), the
road leaves the sea-coast and turns
up the picturesque and finely wooded
Glen Ajjp, quitting it (14 m.) at the
base of Carlock-hill, 1054 ft., and
taking a direction due IST. past the
handsome modern seat of Js. Hunter,
Esq., in a fine position overlooking
the sea, in an estate of 8580 acres, to

18 m. Ballantrae {Inn: King's
Arms, small but tidy), a small fish-
ing port at the mouth of the Stin-
char, a considerable stream crossed
I by a bridge. Above it is a crust of
Castle Arclstinchar, which once com-
manded the pass out of Galloway.
The scenery in Glen Tig, and up the
Stinchar towards the village of Col-
monell, 54 ra., is very pretty.
Between the latter place and Bal-
lantrae is Knockdolian, the seat of
A. Cathcart, Esq.

The road from Ballantrae to Girvan
closely hugs the coast, which in many
parts is exceedingly bold, with ro-
mantic cliff's, particularly at Bennane
Head. The tourist obtains a succes-
sion of grand sea-views, in which
Ailsa Craig is a prominent object.

At Lendalfoot, about half-way, the
cliff's are fine and bold, the trap rock
assuming fantastic shapes, arches,
etc., and are covered with creeping
vegetation, and especially at Games-
loup. The marine spleenwort grows
here. The ruined tower of Carletoii
Castle is the scene of the ballad of
" May Cullean." Here lived a baron
who had a habit of frequently marry-
ing and becoming tired of his Avives,
whom he despatched by pushing
them from the top of the cliflTs.
Seven had already gone this way,
when May Cullean, the eighth wife,



Ayrshire. Route \l. — Stranraer to Ayr : Girvan ; Ailsa. 113



appeared on the scene, and was led
out on to the rocks to perform the
same ceremony. Requesting the
baron to turn away his head while
she took off her apparel, she adroitly
managed to push him over instead.

" 'O turn j'e then about, Sir John,
And look to the leaf of the tree,
For it never became a gentleman
A naked woman to see ! '
He turned himself straight round

about.
To look to the leaf of the tree ;
She has twined her arms around his

waist.
And thrown him into the sea."

30 m. Girvan Stat. {Inn: King's
Arms, good), a dull but neat town,
5921 inhab., at mouth of the Girvan
water, consisting of one long street,
at N. end of which is the rly. stat.
It is situated on the edge of a small
detached coalfield, which gives occu-
pation to the people. Sheltered
under a wooded hill lies (24 m.
S.W.) Ardmillan House (Lord Ard-
millan).

Distances: Ballantrae, 12 m. ; Ayr,
22; Stranraer, 30; Turnberry (Jastle,
6 ; Maybole, 12|.

The Fuiihoay from Girvan to A}t,
22 m., takes an inland course to
Maybole, so that the tourist is shut
out from the places of interest on the
coast. Some may prefer, therefore,
to follow the coast-road, but it is
very hilly and not well kept.

[Girvan is the most suitable place
for making a water excursion to
Ailsa Craig, which rises grandly
about 10 m. out at sea. It is 1100
ft. in height, and 2 m. in circum-
ference at the base. From this side
it appears to be spherical, but from
N. and S. it would seem to be p}Ta-
midal, and on the W. to be rect-
angular. It is in reality shaped like
a wedge, and is perpendicular towards
the AV., while it slopes gradually
away to the E. , on which side alone
it is accessible. Ailsa can be ap-
proached only when the wind is
favourable, a landing is then easy,
but the narrow path up at places
{Scotland. ]



winds round the edge of the pre-
cipice. Upon the summit are the
ruins of a tower. The Craig is inha-
bited by one human family, besides
goats, rabbits, and great quantities
of sea-fowl. The beauty of the cliffs
of Ailsa is little knoAvn, as it fronts
to the W., on which side the columnar
cliffs rise to a height of 400 ft. The
columns, from 6 ft. to 9 ft. in dia-
meter, differ from those of Staffa in
being of grey syenite, not of basalt.]

The geologist will find fossiliferous
rocks of lower Silurian as well as of
carboniferous age in the neighbour-
hood of Girvan. The former are
seen to the S. of the Girvan Water,
occupying the high ground extend-
ing from Dailly to Asselburn, Aldone,
and the sea ; while the latter form
an isolated patch on both sides of
the river. Silurian fossils may also
be obtained at the quarries of Craig's
Head and Mulloch Hill, on the N.
side of the Girvan AVater, between
Girvan and Dailly.

The rly. follows the course of the
Girvan river through a valley of
pleasing character in places, espe-
cially near

3 m, Killochan Stat., near which
are Killochan Castle (Sir J. Cath-
cart). On a hill near Killochan is
the Baron Stone, a giant boulder of
granite, which, like the thousand
others strewing the ground, has
been brought from the source or Eye
of the Girvan, which is in a granite
basin. 6 m. In Dailly ch. -yard is
the grave of J. B. Collis, who was
buried 23 days in a coal-pit, was dug
out alive, but survived only 3 days.
In the neighbourhood is Dalquharran
Castle (Right Hon. T. F. Kennedy).
From this stat, it is 8 m. left to
Turnherry Castle {sec page 115).

8 1 m. Kilkerran Stat. On the

slopes of the opposite bank of the

Girvan is Kilkerran, the seat of Sir

J. Fergusson, and Bargany (Countess

F 2



114



Route 11. — Mayhole ; Crossraguel.



Sect. I.



of stair, Duchess de Coigny), in a
pretty park.

12i m. Mayhole Stat. {Inn : King's
Arms), a place of some historical im-
portance as the capital of the lonety,
hilly cattle-feeding district called
Carrick, the domain of the Braces.
Here the Lord Cassilis, the hereditary
bailie, and other local magnates, had
their town mansions, and held their
courts in the olden times.

Mayhole still retains two buildings
of interest — the Tolbooth, which has
some Gothic details, and was the old
town residence of the Kennedies of
Blairquhan, who had their principal
castle at Straiton — and the Tower or
Cattle (now restored, and the abode
of Lord Ailsa's factor), was the resi-
dence of the Bailie of Carrick. This
was the scene of the ballad of
"Johnnie Faa, " the gipsy, Avho, ac-
cording to the story (which is proved
to be untrue), eloped with the lady
of the 6th Earl of Cassilis.

"The gipsies cam to our gude lord's yett,
And O, but they sang sweetly ;
They sang sae sweet and sae very com-
plete
That doun cam the fair ladie.
And she cam tripping doun the stair,

And a' her maids before her ;
As soon as they saw her weel-faired face
They cuist the glamour ower her."

Within the ruins of the Old Church
is the burying-place of tlie Ailsa
family. l\\ the old Red Lion Lm
took place the meniorable theological
contest in 1561, of 3 days' duration,
betAveen John Knox and the Abbot
of Crossraguel, Quentin Kennedy.

There is a fine view from Bennan
Hill. The festival of shooting at
the Popinjay was kept iip till a very
few years ago. Here is the large
agricultural implement manufactory
of Jack and Co.

Mayhole was the residence of
Kennedy of Cullayne, who was dia-
bolically murdered by Mure of
Auchendrane, one of the most dan-
gerous and bloodthirsty men of his
time, scrupling not to assassinate



anybody whom he had reason to
envy or fear. For this last offence,
however, he was brought to trial
with his son, and executed in 1611,
The story has been dramatised by
Sir W. Scott in his "Ayrshire
Tragedy."

"Ay, 'tis an old belief in Camck here.
Whose natives do not always die in bed,
That a a Kennedy shall not attain
Methuselah's last span, a Mure has slain
him."

[About 2 m. from Maybole, on the
Kirkoswald-road, are the picturesque
remains of the Abbey of Crossraguel,
founded previous to 1240 by David,
Earl of Carrick, for Cluniac monks
from Paisley. A large portion of
the buildings are still standing, and
form a curious mixture of " the half
bai'onial, half ecclesiastical construc-
tion." The'ch. consisted of a nave
without aisle or transept, and a chan-
cel, divided by a wall, and terminated
at the E. by an apsidal end of 3 sides.
At the S.E. is a handsome tomb with
4 canopied arches. The chai^ter-
house, retaining its vaulted roof,
supported on light piers, has very
handsome Avindows, and is evidently
the most modern part of the whole.
To the W. of the chapter-house is a
square, in which the cloisters can
easily be traced, and beyond this was
the refectory. At the S.E. corner of
the ch., built upon an arch spanning
a stream that runs through the
gai'dens, Avas the Abbot's house. To
the W. of the Avhole is the entrance
by a grand turreted gatehouse.]

[Another excursion of 6^ m. may
be made to the little fishing and
bathing place of Dunure, Avhich has
a harbour cut out of the solid rock,
by Abercrombie, the engineer, at an
expense of £50,000. It is, hoAvever,
too small for any practical purpose.
Here, overlooking the sea, is the
solitary fragment of Dunure Castle,
once the seat of the Kennedies, but
dismantled in the middle of the 1 7th
centy. ]



Ayrshire. Route 12. — Ayr to Glasgow — Culzean.



115



[The coast-7'oacl from Girvan keeps
the shore pretty closely for 6 m, to
the ruins of Turnberry Castle, of
which the principal portion now
standing consists of a piece of
masonry about 30 ft. above the sea,
to which there was a subterranean
passage from the castle. There is
also a little masonry among the
rocks Avhich formed the foundation
of the Castle, but so built into the
crevices that it is difficult to distin-
guish between art and nature.

Turnberry was in former times the
seat of the Earls of Carrick, and was
occupied by Martha, Countess of
Carrick, who married, in 1274,
Robert Bruce, Earl of Annandale.
The eldest son of this marriage was
the great Robert Bruce, who was
probably born in it, and who is re-
presented in the " Lord of the Isles "
as seizing the castle in his first de-
scent from Arran. It is more pro-
bable, however, that it did not fall
into his hands till after the battle of
Bannockburn. It had been arranged
that a fire should be lighted at Turn-
berry to give a signal to Bruce that
the favourable moment for the de-
scent had arrived. When the signal
was seen at nightfall, Bruce landed
only to find that the fire had not
been lighted by any one of his party,
and that the castle was occupied by
a strong English force of Earl Percy
(1306). So mysterious was the oc-
currence that it was believed to be of
supernatural origin.

*' Now ask j'ou whence that wondrous
light
Whose fairy glow beguiled their sight ?
It ne'er was known — yet greyhair'd eld
A superstitious credence held,
That never did a mortal hand
Wake its broad glare on Carrick's strand ;
Nay, and that on the selfsame night,
When Bruce crossed o'er, still gleams the
light." — Lord of the Isles.

" To the S. of the castle is the
' Wearij Nuik,' a little romantic
green hill where Bruce and his party
are said to have rested after assault-
ing the castle."



1 m. N. E. of Turnberry is the farm
of Slimiter, once the residence of
Douglas Grahame, the original of
"Tam o'Shanter."

" Here Burns, Avhen 19 years old,
studied mensuration and 'first be-
came acquainted with scenes of
swaggering and riot. ' The then occu-
pier of Shanter Avas, by all accounts,
just what the Tarn of the poet ap-
pears — a jolly, careless rustic, who
took much more interest in the con-
traband traffic of the coast than in
the rotation of crops. Burns knew
the man well — and to his dying day,
he, nothing loth, passed among his
rural compeers by the name of ' Tarn
o' Shanter.'" — Lockhart's "Life of
Burns."

The tourist can proceed from hence
to Maybole inland, through Kirkos-
%cald village and Crossraguel, about
5 m. In the ch. -yd. of Kirkoswald
is the grave of Tam and his "ain
wife Kate," with the epitaph —
" She tauld thee weel thou was a skellum,

A bleth'ring, blust'ring, drunken
blellum. "

Overlooking the coast, 3 m. to the
N. of Turnberry, is Culzean Castle
(pronounced Colyean), the modern
Gothic castle of the JVIarquis of Ailsa,
built 1777 by David 10th Earl of
Cassilis. It contains a fine Armoury.
It is not open to visitors, and no view
can be obtained of it from this side ;
but it is a beautiful object from
the sea, on the very edge of which
it stands. On the land side are the
terrace -gardens of the old house, re-
moved to make way for its grand
successor. At the foot of the rock
on which the castle stands are the
Coves of Culzean, three caves hewn
in the rock, which have been used
as hiding-places during the civil
wars, and aff'orded a refuge to Sir
Archibald Kennedy after the Re-
volution. According to Burns they
were the fairies' place of resort on
Halloween.

" Or for Colean the rout is ta'en,
Beneath the moon's pale beams ;



116



Route 12. — Ayr to Glasgow.



Sect. I.



There, up the Cove, to stray an' rove,
Amang the rocks an' streams

To sport that night."
Burns's " Hallowe'en."

Culzean has been, ever since the
15th centy., in the hands of the
Kennedies, Earls of Cassilis, who
played an important- part in the
history of the times, and had such
power that it gave rise to the popular
rhyme —

" 'Twixt "Wigtown and the town of Ayr,
Portpatrick and the Cruives of Cree,
No man may think for to bide there.
Unless he court Saint Kennedie."

From Culzean it is 4 m. to May-
bole Stat.

Continuing by rail from Maybole,
15 m. Cassilis Stat. On right is
seen Cassilis House, another seat of
the Marquis of Ailsa. In the grounds
are the " Cassilis Downans," men-
tioned by Burns in his " Hallowe'en"
as the resort of fairies.

17 m. Dalrym2)Ie Junct. Stat, the
village Ipng about a mile to the
right, and on the banks of the Doon,
which the rly. crosses soon after
leaving Cassilis. The Dalmellington
branch rly. runs in here, and the
traveller soon reaches

214 ra. Ayr Stat. {Inn : King's
Arms) Ete. 12.



ROUTE 12.

Ayr to Glasgow, by Troon,
Kilwinning, Ardrossan, Pais-
ley [Dalmellington and Loch
Doon].

Ayr {Inns : King's Arms ; Com-
mercial) is a pleasant seaport and
borough of nearly 17,853 inhab.,
situated on the coast, at the em-
bouchure of the Water of Ayr, which
is crossed by a coujile of bridges
connecting the town with the suburbs
of Newtown and Wallacetown. Al-
though it dates its rise as far back as
1205, when it was made a borough
by William the Lion, it has kept



pace with the improvements of the
times, and exhibits well-built broad
streets, and pleasant suburban roads
fringed with villas and country
houses.

As regards trade, it is inferior
to Kilmarnock in manufactures and
to Troon in shipping prosperity, but
Ayr founds its claims to importance
more on its social distinctions as a
provincial capital and its associa-
tions with the two national cele-
brities, Wallace and Burns, the latter
of whom describes it as
" Auld Ayr, whom ne'er a toun surpasses

For honest men and bonnie lasses."

. There was an old castle here on the
left bank of the Ayr, a little way
below the New Bridge, of which no-
thing remains, but the site is believed
to be the same on which Oliver
Cromwell built one of his 5 forts
or bastiles to overawe the West
Country, 1652. The Old Church
was partly built by Cromwell, in lieu
of that of St. John the Baptist, a
large pile near the shore, which he
seized upon and converted into an
armoury, at the same time that he
included it within the fort. The
tower of that ch., with part of the
magazine, is still standing ; the
former has been turned into a dwell-
ing-house. It was in the Dominican
convent which occupied the site of
this ch. that the parliament assem-
bled in 1315 which settled the suc-
cession upon Robert Bruce and his
heirs.

The Wallace Tower in the High-
street is one of the most conspicu-
ous, if not the most tasteful, objects
in Ayr, being 133 ft. in height. It
was built in 1832 upon the site of a
very old to^^"er, in which Wallace is
said to have been confined, and over
the walls of which he was let down
by his friends to escape from the
Southrons. A niche m front con-
tains a statue of Wallace by James
Thom, an artist of local fame. The
lower storey is a whisky shop.

In Wellington Square is a statue



S.Scotland. Boute 12. — Ayr: Alloivay Kirk.



117



of the Indian Gen. Neill, who was a
native of Ayr. It is the work of Mr,
Noble, is 10 ft. high, and placed on a
pedestal of Dalbeattie gi'anite, which
bears an inscription describing him as
"a brave, resolute, self-reliant soldier,
universally acknowledged as the hrst
who stemmed the tide of rebellion in
Bengal." Below the inscription is
the representation of his death, which
took i^lace at the relief of Lucknow,
25th Sept. 1857.

The same square contains the
County Buildinrjs, designed after the
model of the Temple of Isis, Rome.
The Town Buildings at the corner of
High and Sandgate Streets are con-
spicuous for their lofty steeple and
spire.

Thanks to Eobert Burns's facetious
" Dialogue," no public buildings are
more celebrated than the Tica Brigs
of A}T, of which the " Auld Brig, "
now used only as a footway from
the High Street, was built in the
latter part of the 13th centy. by two
old maids of the name of Lowe. For
500 years "the auld vandal" satis-
fied the wants of Ayr, though but
" A poor, narrow footpath of a street,
Where twa wheelbarrows tremble when
they meet."

The New Bridge, lower down, nearer
the harbour, was built in 1788, from
designs by Adam. The abutments of
the arches being adorned with alle-
gorical figures, this uncalled-for de-
coration roused the ire of the " Auld
Brig," who says —
"I dout na, frien', ye'll think ye're nae
sheepshank,

Ance ye were streekit owre frae bank to
bank !
; But gin ye be a brig as auld as me,

Tlio' faith, that day, I doubt, ye'll never

There'll be, if that date come, I'll wad a
boddle, '

Some fewer whigmaleeries in your
noddle."

The " drowsy dungeon clock" was
taken down in 1826.

Railways to Ardrossan, 19^ m. ;
Glasgow, 41 ; Girvan, 22 ; and Dal-
mellington, 15 m.



Steamer to Glasgow in 8 hrs., and
to Stranraer.

Excursions from, Ayr : —

a. Alloway and Brig o' Doon,
3 m.

h. Mauchline, 11 m., and Coils-
field.

c. Dalmellington and Loch Doon.

d. Dunure and Greenan.

a. The main attractions for the
thousands of tourists who visit the
town are Alloivay Kirk, Burns's
Mrth'place, and monument, and the
Brig o' Boon, which lie 3 m. to the
S. At the top of High Street or
Townhead, near the rlv. stat. , 2 roads
fork off. Take the road to the left
on quitting the railway station.
This is the direction in which " Tam
o' Shanter " proceeded after he had
left the public-house in Ayr. It is
not exactly the same road, for it has
been somewhat straightened, and
some localities mentioned in his ride
are now at some distance from it.

Just before arriving at left Rozelle
(Mr. Smith) the road crosses a stream,
over which, a little distance from the



"... the ford
Where in the snaw the chapman smoor'd."

And on right is the cottage in the
garden of which is

"... the meikle stane,
Where drucken Charlie brak's neck bane."

Rt. is Cambusdoon (Jas. Baird,
Esq.), formerly the property of Lord
Nigel Kennedy, prettily seated on
the bank of the Doon.

2 m. right is a row of cottages, in
one of which Burns was born on the
25th Jan. 1759. It was originally a
" clay bigging," rebuilt by the poet's
father with his own hands. On the
night of his birth a storm came on,
part of his mother's cottage fell in,
and she and her child were forced to
take shelter in that of a neighbour
until their own had been repaired.
This interesting structure has now
been turned by its enterprising pro-
prietors (the shoemakers of Ayr) into



IIJ



Boute 12. — Allow aij ; Mauchline.



Sect. I.



a public-lionse ; and behind it a
saloon has been built for the sancti-
fication of national genius and the
consumption of national liquor.
(The lower storey of the Wallace
memorial is devoted to the same
purpose. )

24 m. right, opposite the new
florid Gothic Church of AUoway, a
flight of steps, worn by the feet of
jDilgrims by the thousand, leads over
a wall to

" Alloway's auld haunted kirk,"
now reduced to 4 bare walls, two of
them gabled and surmounted by a
bell-cote, Avhich in Burns's day served
as a village ch. Here Tarn o' Shanter
was the witness of the witches'
hellish orgies. Within the ch.-yd.,
amongst a crowd of other forefathers
of the hamlet, Burns's father is
buried.

Opposite the old kirk the new one
rather stares the old ruins out of
countenance ; and beyond it, in
a garden overlooking the Doon, is
Burns's Monument, built in 1820,
at a cost of £3350. It is a circular
temj)le, sujiported by 9 fluted Cor-
inthian columns, emblematic of the
9 Muses. In the interior are pre-
served a copy of the best edition of
the poet's works, a bust and copy
of the portrait of him by Nasmyth
(the best ever executed), and a Bible
said to be the one presented by him
to "Highland Mary" at their last
interview. A staircase leads to the
temple, whence a pretty view is ob-
tained of the surrounding scenery.
In a grotto at the end of the garden
are the figures of " Tam o' Shanter "
and "Souter Johnnie," by James
Thom, the sculptor of Wallace's
statue — specimens of caricature of
little value as works of art. There
is much bad taste in all this cockney-
fied homage to the poet : the real
interest lies in the beauty of the
spot, the hanks of the Doon contrast-
ing pleasantly with the rather mono-
tonous country around Ayr. Let



the tourist descend to the stream of
the Doon, just above the two bridges,
one, comparatively new, the other
the " Auld Brig," of one slim arch,
to "win the keystone" of which
was the utmost effort of Meg in her
flight from the witches, for as Tam
well knew,
"A running stream tbey dare na' cross."
By the side of a small tributary of
the Doon, in the garden of Doonbrae
cottage, is the thorn on which
" Mungo's mither hang'd hersel."

There is an Inn (]\lonument) be-
tween the two bridges, the garden of
which runs down to the river, and
contains a shell grotto.

[A short distance up the Doon
is Newark Castle, on a shoulder of
Brown Oarrick Hill, 917 ft. It has
been almost rebuilt by the Marquis
of Ailsa. Higher up, on the right
bank is Doonholm, the seat of Sir
Colin Blackburn ; and a little to the
E. is Mount Olipkant farm, once
rented by Burns's father, and where
the poet received his early education.
From this point another mile will
bring the pedestrian to Dalrijmjjle
Stat. (Rte. 11), from whence he may
return to Ayr. ]

The traveller may return from
Brig 0' Doon to Ayr by a diff"erent
and prettier road, on the left side of
the Doon, crossing the new and
afterwards the Low Bridge over
that sti'eam, and skirting Ayr Race
Course.

[h. To Mauchline (11 m.), on the
road to which the traveller meets
with scenes of great beauty on the
banks of the Water of Ayr, Avhich are
frequently embellished with charm-
ing seats and residences, such as Gad-
girth (Major-Gen. F. C.Burnett,R.A.),
near which the picturesque stream of
the Coil joins the Ayr, and Auchen-
cruive (R. A. Oswald, Esq.), in the
grounds of which still exists the Laig-
land Wood, where it is said Wallace
lay hid before burning the Barns of



S. Scotland. Pioute 1 2. — Dahnellington ; Loch Doon. 1 1 9



Ayr. On the S. bank of the former
river is Sundriim (the very ancient
seat of J. Hamilton, Esq.) In the
neighbourhood of Dalmore, where
there is a bridge, the Ayr runs
through a romantic glen bordered by.
high banks, increasing in beauty till
it arrives at Coilsficld, where the
little river Faile runs in.

The scenery here is still further
enriched by the woods of Mont-
gomerie (W. Paterson, Esq.), where
Burns wrote his touching poem : —

" Ye banks and braes and streams around
The castle o' ^lontgoniery.
Green be your woods and fair your
flowers,
Your waters never dnnnlie !
There simmer first unfaulds her robes.

And there thej' langest tany ;

For there I took the last fareweel

O' my sweet Highland Mary."

About- a couple of miles to the
N.W., near the village of Tarbolton,
Burns lived on his father's farm at



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