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good Inn, steamers to and from
Glasgow and Greenock 3 or 4 times a
day touch at the pier.

It is a charming walk of 1 1 m. from
Garelochhead to Loch Long, crossing
the hill, which commands exquisite
views of the loch, together with Loch
Goil, and the Castle of Cari-ick keeping
guard over the diverging waters ; and,
a little lower down, of the prettily
sheltered house of Glenfinnart (Edw.
Caird, Esq.), and Ardentinny (Gen.
Sir John Douglas), celebrated in the
verses of Tannahill. From Portin-
caple there is a ferry to the opposite
side.

Garelochhead is 10 m. from Arro-
char (Rtes. 30 and 31), and 8 m.
from Helensburgh ; but the pedes-
trian may vary his return thither
through Glenfruin—^ splendid walk
of about 11 m. to Luss, in which
he will gain views of the lower
part of Loch Lomond.]



Dumbarton to Loch Lomond.
Leaving Du.mbarton Junct. (Rte.
31), the train passes

16^ m. Dalreoch Stat, on the bank
of the Leven.

18 m. Benton Stat., a flourishing
village occupied by print and bleach-
ing works. The traveller is for the



C.Scotland. Route l^. — Alexandria: Loch Lomond. 169



present in the regions made classic
by the genius of Smollett, whose
family were natives of this district,
and indeed the village of Eenton was
so called from a lady mentioned in
"Humphrey Clinker." A little to
the S. is Dalquliarn (pronounced
Dal harn, qu mute), where Tobias
Smollett was born. His monument,
consisting of a stone pillar sur-
mounted by an urn, with a Latin
inscription on the face of it by Dr.
Johnson, stands in front of the
School of Eenton. In the present
state of the populous and lurid
valley and the tainted river there is
little to remind us of his Ode to the
Leven, —

" Pure stream in whose transparent wave,
My youthful limbs I wont to lave . . .
Devolving from thy parent lake,
A channing maze thy waters make,
By bowers of birch and groves of pine.
And hedges flowered with eglantine."

Here are the colossal dye-works of
Stirling and Buchanan, established
1728.



19 m. Alexandria, Stat. — One of
several villages that have arisen on
the banks of the Leven since 1728-
1768 — has a large trade in bleaching,
dyeing, and printing. The pastoral
vale of Smollett is now teeming with
an immense industry in bleaching,
dyeing (Turkey red), and printing
calico, carried on by the Stirlings,
OiT Swings, and Todds. Alexandria
was so called by the Smollett family,
from Alexander Telfer S. Within
the memory of persons still living it
consisted of only one gTocer's shop,
and it is as well known now by its
local name of " the gi'ocery " as it is
by that of Alexandria. A bridge over
the Leven connects Alexandria with
the manufacturing village of Bonhill.
B. House, the residence of A.Smollett,
Esq., a member of the same family.
Passing 1. Tillichewan Castle (James
Campbell, Esq.), a modern edifice,
the train arrives at

[Scotland.] •



+ Balloch Junct. Stat. (Ete. 22),
on the shore of Loch Lomond, in
view of Ben Lomond, is close to the
pier, upon which the train is run.
Here the tourist can betake himself
on board the Loch Lomond steamer.
The Leven is here crossed by a
suspension bridge (toll Id.), on the
other side of which is the Balloch
Hotel (good).

PMihvay to Stirling (Rte. 22).

Steamers 3 times a day to Tarbet
and Inversnaid in summer ; less often
to Ardlui. There is a Eestaurant on
board, at which you can breakfast or
dine fairly well. Pier dues on land-
ing, 2d.

^^ Loch Lomond is unquestionably
the pride of our lakes — incomparable
in its beauty as in its dimensions,
exceeding all others in variety as it
does in extent and sjilendour, and
uniting in itself every style of
scenery which is found in the other
lakes of the Highlands. As with
regard to its superiority over all
others there can be no question, so
in the highly contrasted characters
of its upper and lower portions it
offers points of comparison with the
whole- — with all those at least which
possess any picturesque beauty — for
it has no blank. Nor do I think
that I overrate its richness in scenery
when I say that if Loch Achray and
Loch Katrine be omitted, it presents
numerically more pictures than all
the lakes of the Highlands united."
— Mcccculloch.

It is the largest fresh water lake in
Britain. From Balloch to Ardlui
its extreme length is 24 m., and its
greatest breadth, at the south end
from Glenfruin to Endrick Water,
7 m. It contains 24 islands, some
of which are of considerable size, and
by their craggy and wooded features
add greatly to the scenic beauty ;
three belong to Sir George Leith,
and the rest to Sir James Colquhoun

* The sign (f) denotes a landing- pier.

I



170



Boute 19. — Loch Lomond ; Luss.



Sect. II.



of Luss, or the Duke of Montrose.
The lower portion of the lake freezes
in very hard winters, but never above
Tarbet, between which and Ben Lo-
mond the depth is upwards of 100
fathoms.

The lower end of the lake, which
is beautifully wooded, is ornamented
with some picturesque residences.
On the rt., Balloch Castle (A. Dennis-
toun-BroAvn, Esq.), and the remains
of the old castle of Balloch, once the
property of the Earls of Lennox.
Higher up is Boturich Castle (C. B.
Findlay, Esq.), occujiying the site of
the old seat of the Lennox family.
On the 1. bank are Cameron House
(A. Smollett, Esq.), Auchindennan
(George Martin, Esq.), and Arden (Sir
James Lumsden). A good view is
obtained of the forked rock of Dum-
bartoji, nearly due S. To the E. is
the valley of the Endrick, where the
river of that name falls into the lake.
To the S. of its embouchure is Boss
Friory (Sir George Leith, Bart.),
where Sir Walter Scott used to stay
when in this neighbourhood. Li the
vale of the Endrick, also, Napier of
Merchiston, the inventor of loga-
rithms, passed a great part of his life.

In the middle of the lake about
this point is Lich Murrin, the largest
and most southerly island, belonging
to the Duke of Montrose, who keejis
a well-stocked deer-forest on it, though
the deer are only of the fallow kiiid.
At the farthest extremity are the
ruins of Lennox Castle, to which the
Duchess of Albany retired from Doune
Castle after her husband had been
executed in 1424. It used to be the
practice to confine insane persons and
those afflicted with drunkenness on
this island and Inch Lonaig.

Arden is situated at the entrance
of Glenfruin, a fine though triste-
looking glen running towards Gare-
loch. It acquired a sad notoriety in
the annals of the Lennox, as this
district is called, from the battle in
which the M'Gregors encountered
the clan of Colquhoun, who suffered



sorely, leaving 200 dead upon the
field. A number of the sons of the
princij^al families in the Lennox came
to look on at the battle, and were
shut up in a barn by the Colquhouns,
where they were all treacherously
murdered by the M'Gregors. The
latter accusation was, however, de-
nied by the M'Gi-egors, who in the
end suffered for their triumph. Sixty
widows of the clan Colquhoun ap-
peared before James VI. at Stirling,
each having in her hand the bloody
shirt of her husband, by which the
king was so moved that he proscribed
the M'Gregors, who from this time
forth were hunted mercilessly down.

i On the E. Bank is Balmaha,
where the steamer calls. Close oppo-
site the pier is Inch Caillach (Island
of Old Women), because a nunnery
formerly existed there. It is cele-
brated as being the burying-place
of the ]\I'Gregors, who often swore
"upon the Halidome of him that
sleeps beneath the grey stone at Inch
Caillach." Numerous monuments
belonging to that family still remain,
but the island is so wooded with yew
and fir that they are not to be seen
from the water.

" The shaft and limbs were rods of yew.
Whose parents in Inch Caillach wave
Their shadows o'er Clan Alpine's grave:
And answering Lomond's breezes deep
Soothe many a chieftain's endless sleep."
Lady of the Lake, c. iii.

The steamer now steers through a
group of islands, the principal of
which are Inch Fad (Long Island),
cultivated and farmed, Inch Croe, Tor
Inch, Inch Cruin, Inch Tavannach,
Inch Connachan, and Inch lionaig,
used as a deer park.

" All the fairy crowds
Of islands, which together lie
As quietly as spots of sky

Among the evening clouds."

Wordsworth.

t Left, Luss pier and village, with
slate-quarries, to the S. of which is
Bossdhu, the beautiful seat of Sir



C.Scotland. Eoute Id. — Rowardennan ; Ben Lomond. 171



J. Colqulioun, the owner of most of
this side of the loch. His predeces-
sor was drowned in the lake by the
upsetting of a boat overladen with
game, 1873. There is a tolerable />i?i
at Luss, and it is now a favourite
watering-place.

Glcnfinlas opens out here, run-
ning in a parallel direction to Glen-
fruin ; and, taking the lake as a
whole, this is perhaps the most
lovely portion of it.

From the woods of Luss the privi-
lege was obtained of cutting the tim-
ber for the erection of Glasgow cathe-
dral. There is a good road from
Luss to Helensburgh, crossing the
opening of Glenfruin.

There is a ferry across the lake
from Inveruglas W. to E. side at

i Roivardcnnan (comfortable Inn),
whence the ascent of Ben Lomond,
4 m., can be made in a little more
than 2 hours, with all convenience,
the path being so gentle that those
who choose can ride up the whole
way. Ponies are kept at the Inn.

The beauty of Ben Lomond (3192
ft.), which is covered with grass to
the top, is much enhanced by con-
trast ■s\ith Ben Arthur (the Cobbler)
and the mountains of Arrochar on
the opposite side of the lake, which
have steep decli\dties and bare rocky
summits, nearly of the same elevation.
On a very clear day the view from
the summit is magnificent, and it
presents the spectator with a wide
panorama over the S. of Scotland.
On the N". alone is the view limited
by the jealous barrier of the Gram-
pian hills, but on the other side it
extends from the horizon of St.
George's Channel nearly to the castle
of Edinburgh. On the S. arS the
wdndings of the Clyde, with the old
rock and castle of Duml^arton, frown-
ing on its youthful and prosperous
neighbour. On the AV. side are the
hills and lakes of Argyllshire, the
island of Bute, the mountains of



Arran, and the flat country of Ayr-
shire. On the E. part are the Camp-
sie hills, and the vale of Menteith,
backed by

" the bulwark of the North,

Grey Stirling with its towers and town."

Still more to the IST. are Loch
Katrine and its giant guardians, Ben
Venue and Ben Ledi — and so, from
mountain to mountain, the eye ranges
over the sea of hills, until all indi-
viduality is lost. If the weather is
fine and clear there is no necessity
for a guide, but if it is at all uncer-
tain, the stranger should not venture
without one.

On the opposite shore W., 5 m.
higher up, is

i Tarbct (* Hotel : M'Pherson's,
with a garden on the lake, excellent,
but expensive). 8 m. from the head
of the loch, in a charming situation.
W. appears the fantastic top of Ben
Arthur (the Cobbler). The view of
Ben Lomond is magnificent. The
ascent (2i hours), although made
every day, and by no means difficult,
is not quite so easy as that from
Kowardennan. AVlien once over the
lake, do not keep straight up, but
strike through the woods in a slant-
ing direction to the right hahd, until
the first plateau is gained, from which
the way lies pretty direct to the
summit.

Tarbet is 2 m. distant from Ar-
rochar, at the head of Loch Long,
where the Glasgow steamer touches
to receive passengers. It is a plea-
sant walk across the isthmus to Loch
Long. Coach thither and to Inveraray
by Glencroe (Rte. 31).

Continuing up the lake, which is
here 100 fathoms deep, the steamer
passes on right Eob Roy's Prison,
where he is said to have kept his
prisoners till he had extorted suffi-
cient ransom. The views looking
northward, with the vista of Glen-
falloch are very beautiful, although
the principal objects, Beii Lomond
and the Cobbler are now left behind.



172



Route 20. — Stirling to Inversnaid.



Sect. II.



rt. t Inversnaid {Inn* good ; the
river Arklet forms a pretty waterfall
just behind it, alluded to by Words-
worth in his poem, " The Highland
Girl."

Here the routes from the Trossachs
and Loch Katiine (Ete. 21), and from
Aberfoyle (Rte. 29) fall in. Steamers
touch here 3 times a day, going up
and down the lake, in summer.
Coaches convey passengers to and
from Inversnaid to Stronachlachar Inn
on Loch Katrine, corresponding with
the steamers on the two lakes (Rte. 33).

Higher up on right is Rob Roy's
Cave, marked by two circles painted
on the face of the rock. The head
of the Cobbler Mountain appears on
the W.

A road runs from Tarbet along
the W. side of the lake to Ardlui,
passing a cleft or fissure in the rock
where the minister of AiTochar is
sometimes accustomed to preach to
the outlying members of his parish.
The upper part of the lake is shallow,
from the river deposits in it.

i Ardlui Pier (2d.) (8 m. from Tar-
bet) is the highest point to which
the steamers go, although a canal
(not used now) was cut by the Marquis
of Breadalbane to enable them to
proceed to

Inverarnan Hotel, whence coaches
start twice a day in summer : 1. to
Tyndrum RIy. Stat., whence, until
the Rly. is open, other coaches go to
Dalmally, TaynuHt, Oban (Rte. 34);
2. From Tyndram to Inveroran,
King's House, Glencoe, Ballachulish,
and Fort- William (Rte. 34).

The road to Tyndrum proceeds up
Glenfalloch to Crianlarich Stat. , on the
Rly. to Killin, whence coaches to Tay-
mouth and Aberfeldy (Rte. 44). Inn.

At Tyndrum the road to Glen-
coe (Rte. 34) separates from that to
Oban.

Dalmally {Inn). Rte. 31. Rly. in
progress.

Oban, Rte. 31.



ROUTE 20.

Stirling to Inversnaid, by Loch.
Menteith., Aberfoyle, and Loch.
Chon.

The traveller leaves Stirling by
the Forth and Clyde Rly. (Rte. 22),
arriving at the

13 m. Port of Monteith Stat., from
whence a conveyance may be hired
to Loch Menteith, Aberfoyle, and
Inversnaid, one of the most pic-
turesque routes in the Highlands.

The road soon crosses the Forth,
here reduced to a small and rather a
sluggish stream ; then passes rt. Car-
dross, and reaches

4 m. Loch Menteith, and Port of
Menteith Inn, quiet, clean, and mode-
rate. The scenery around Loch
i\Ienteith is comparatively tame, and
of a very different character from
that of the lochs higher up, althoiigh
the well-wooded and cultivated vale
imparts a pleasing effect.

A boat can be obtained at the inn,
which is on the water's edge, to \'isit
the island, on which are the pic-
turesque Gothic ruins of the Priory
oi Inchniahonc, " Isle of St. Colmoc,"
the " Island of Rest," founded for
Austin Canons Regular in the 13th
centy. by Walter Comyii of Badenoch,
who acquired this property by mar-
riage with the Countess of Menteith.
In the ch. King Da-^dd II. was mar-
ried to his second wife, Margaret,
daughter of Sir John Logie, in 1363.
The style of the building is E. pointed.
The remains consist of part of the
choir, the Tower arch, and 2 arches
of the nave. There appears to have
been an aisle on this side which has
disappeared, though the light and
graceful arches which separated it
from the nave are still standing. The
mouldings of the W. entrance,
which is deeply recessed, are ex-



C.Scotland. Eauie 20. — Loch MenfeUh ; Loch Arcl 173



ceedingly beautiful. The chancel
contains the tomb of the founder,
and 2 effigies ; one is a knight
in complete armoui', with crossed
legs and triangular shield, bearing
the Stuart arms, and by his side
is a lady with her ann round his
neck. Both figures are much defaced
by time and ill usage, but there seems
very little doubt but that they repre-
sent Walter Stuart (brother of the
Steward of Scotland), who married a
younger sister of the Countess of
JVIenteith, and inherited the property
after her death. To this island Mary
Queen of Scots was sent at the age of
5 years, as to a j)lace of inaccessible
security, during the English invasion
of 1547, after tlie battle of Pinkie, to
July 1548. She was then stealthily
removed to Dumbarton, where she
embarked for France, but a little
garden is shown on the island, called
" Queen Mary's Bower," said to have
been tended by herself, and to have
remained as she left it. Noble old
planes and Spanish chestnut trees
form an avenue over a terrace called
"The Nun's Walk." The ruined
castle on the other island, called
"Talla," once the property of the
Grahams, Earls of Menteith, appears
to have been large, and enclosed a
quadrangular court. The date of its
erection is unknown, and it has none
of the solidity of an ancient Scottish
castle. It is much overgi-own with
rubbish and underwood. Other
smaller islands were used by the
owners for dog-kennels.

About \ m. from the inn the road
joins the high road to Stirling, and
turns sharp to the 1., leaving to the
'rt. the fragment of the old castle of
Eednoch, and Eednoch House (Rev.
H, A. Graham Shepherd).

Skirting the base of a craggy line
of hills the traveller reaches



9^ m. Aherfoyle. {Inn : Bailie
Nicol Jarvie, comfortable) ; once the
" clachan " where Frank Osbaldistone j distant



and the worthy Glasgow bailie re-
paired to meet Rob Roy. Through
the village flow the waters of the
Forth, which are formed by the joint
streams of the Duchray and the
Avondhu, " Black Water." To the
1. is Gartmore, the seat of W. C. G.
Bontine, Esq. The scenery of the
Clachan, without being grand, is
highly broken and romantic, and
cannot fail to give delight, especially
when invested with the interest of
Scott's well-known novel.

Distance to Bucklyvie stat. of the
Stirling and Balloch Rly., 7 m.
[There is a fine walk of about 5 m.
over the hills to the rt. , by which the
pedestrian can descend on the Tros-
sachs (passing Loch Drunkie), the
Brigg of Turk, or Loch Vennachar,
In either case the views of Loch
Katrine and the Trossachs are charm-
ing. ] A little to the 1. is the village
of Aberfoyle and Duchray Castle.
Skirting the lakelet of Avondhu, the
road opens upon (11 m.) Loch Arcl,
a very beautiful and pleasing lake, on
the eastern side of which took place
the skirmish between Helen Mac-
gregor and the King's troops. " The
best view of Loch Ard is the first that
is obtained, where . a small portion
only of the lake, nearly separated
from the main body of the water by a
wooded promontory, is seen ; a bright
and placid basin imbedded in sur-
rounding woods, over which rises the
graceful fonn of Ben Lomond, and to
the rt. that of Benochrie. The E.
border, along which the road runs, is
ornamented with a few pretty villas,
generally let to the tenants of the
neighbom'ing shootings ; boats for
fishing may be obtained at the eastern
end. From beneath a perpendicular
rock over the road a remarkable echo
is given off. On a line of 10 syllables
being spoken Avith a fine voice, the
words are returned across the lake,
and repeated with equal distinctness
from the woods a quarter of a mile
the Y.:'— Oliver. To-



174



Eonte 21. — Stirling to the Trossachs. Sect. II,



wards the northern end, the Lcdard
falls into the lake, and fonns 2 pic-
turesque cataracts some little way
above the road — the first about 12 ft.
in height, and the second 50 ft.
Mention is made of this waterfall in
* ' Eob Roy. " " The first fall — across
which a magnificent old oak, stand-
ing out from the farther bank, partly
extended itself, as if to shroud the
dusky stream of the cascade — might
be about 12 ft. high."* Loch Ard
has an island (Dundochil), oii which
are the scanty ruins of a castle built
by the Duke of Albany, uncle of
James I. Lobelia Dortmanni flour-
ishes in this lake. At the western
end a footpath is given off to Eowar-
dennan on Loch Lomond, 6i m.,
crossing the line of waterworks be-
tween Loch Katrine and Glasgow.
{See Rte. 21.)

15 m. Loch Chon, with its little
companion Loch Dhu, is more rocky
and wild than Loch Ard, and beau-
tifully wooded with birch, ash, and
other forest trees. A precipitous hill
rises on the S. W. , one of the outliers
of the Ben Lomond range. The road
at the N. end, 17 m., crosses the
culvert of the Glasgow waterworks.
{See Etc. 21.) At 19 m. the road
from Stronachlachar Inn (Ete. 21)
is joined, and the hill is crossed to

24 m. Inversnaid {Inn: Inver-
snaid Hotel, good), where the tra-
veller can catch the steamer, up or
down, on Loch Lomond. (Ete. 19.)



ROUTE 21.

Stirling to the Trossachs, Loch
Katrine,' and Loch Lomond
(Inversnaid), by Dunblane and
Callander.

Eail to Callander, coach to the

Trossachs and foot of Loch Katrine,

See Dr. John Brown's "Horse Subseeivse."



then steamer up the lake to Stron-
achlachar, where there is another
coach to Inversnaid. By hooking
through at the station, seats are
secured on the coaches, which are
often full.

Quitting Stirling Stat. (Rte. 21)
by the Stirling and Perth Ely. , that
line is followed as far as Dunblane,
crossing the Forth, and passing
rt. the bold Abbey Craig, which is
spoiled by the Wallace Tower on its
top. — 1. See grand view of Grampian
Chain.

3 m. Bridge of Allan Stat.
{Hotels: Queen's, Philps' Eoyal ; both
good) ; a very popular watering-
place, in consequence of its cheer-
ful and sheltered situation, backed
by the woods of Airthrey, and its
mineral wells, where the chaly-
beate water, which is antiscor-
butic and aperient, is collected
in the reservoir of an old copper-
mine. The water is then raised
to the "Well House" on the brow
of the hill, and drunk warm. At-
tached to it are Baths, Eeading
and Billiard rooms. There is a neat
Episcopal Church, built 1857. The
village, a collection of lodging-houses
and villas, stands on the banks of
the Allan Water, which below this
spot joins the Forth, after a pic-
turesque and beautiful course through
Strathallan.

On the outskirts of the town on
the Stirling road is Airthrey Castle
(Lord Abercrombie). Admission on
Thursdays to the grounds ; entrance
at the lodge, exit near the old ch,
of Logic. Keir (Sir W. Stirling-'
Maxwell, Bart.) The beautiful
park is open to visitors from 2 to 6
p. M. on Fridays. Keir (a corruption
of " Caer," it being the site of a
Celtic fort) stands 1 m. N.W. on
the road to Doune, and contains
some good pictures, principally of
Spanish masters. The most im-
portant are an altar-piece, Murillo



C. Scotland.



Fioute 21. — Duiiblane.



175



— the Virgin and Child — formerly
in the convent of La Madre de Dios
at Seville, in which Murillo's
daughter took the veil ; Philip IV.
of Spain, by Rubens, "animated,
warm, and clear in colour ; " Vir-
gin lamenting over Christ's body,
Morales ; Portrait of his first wife,
Rubens ; Landscape, with two friars,
G. Poussin, "beautiful and poetical ; "
Finding of Moses, iV. Poussin ; Christ
and His Disciples going to Emmaus,
C. Lorraine; Landscape, Teniers ;
Baptism of Christ, P. Veronese ; the
Virgin, Zurbaran ; JValker, Portrait
of Cromwell; Raebura, Miss Stirling.
The library is a magnificent lofty
room, lined throughout wdtli fragrant
cedar-wood. Upon the cornice are
mottoes in various European
languages. On the return the
tourist may visit Lecroft ch., very
prettily situated.

There are plenty of walks in the
neighbourhood of the Bridge of Allan,
and extensive views can be obtained
from the hill of Dunmyat or the
Abbey Craig, on which is the memo-
rial to Wallace.

Near the village on rt. of rly. is
AVesterton, the seat of Sir J. Alexan-
der, and farther on is KipiKuross
(J. Stirling, Esq.), the grounds of
which are open on Wednesdays and
Saturdays. Excursions to Stirling,
to Alva Glen, and to Castle Camp-
bell, by Dollar Stat., will occupy a
day most agreeably. (See Rte. 42.)
To Dunblane, 5 m. — to Abbey Craig
for the sake of the view.

5 m. Dunblane Jwnct. Stat. [Inn :
Dunblane Hotel), a coriiiption of
Dun-allan, stands on the 1. bank of
the river Allan. A good view of
the cathedral may be had from the
rly. It was originally a Culdee
cell, and was made a bishoj)ric by
David I., by whom also the cathedral
was founded, circa 1140. Of his
Cathedral nothing remains but the
fine Romanesque Tower. The exist-
ing edifice, of a pure and masculine



pointed Gothic, consists of a noble
nave of 8 bays, but ruined and roof-
less, and of an aisleless choir which
serves as the parish kirk. The W.
end, a good specimen of the pure
and simple pointed style, consists
of a deeply recessed and moulded
Portal, surmounted by a triplet of



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