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3 tall lancet windows of 2 lights,
with a cinquefoil in the head. This
ch. was carefully repaired 1872,
some of the closed windows re-
opened, and the hea\'y wooden gal-
leries cleared out from the inside.

In the S. of the choir is the monu-
ment of Bp. Finlay Dermot, conse-
crated to this see in 1406. His
bones still lie beneath the monument,
which has been much defaced. In
the antechapel are remains of the
old prebendal stalls of black oak,
elaborately carved, some with cano-
pies and some without. In the
chapter-house are the monuments of
Malise, 5th Earl of Strathallan, and
his countess, 1271.

S.W. of the Cathedral, near the
river, are remains of the Bishop's
palace.

Dunblane is honoured by having
had Leighton as its bishop, who
held this diocese from 1662 to 1669,
when he was translated to the arch-
bishopric of Glasgow, but finding that
all attempts to reconcile the people
of Scotland to the episcopal form of
church government were futile, he re-
signed his see and returned into Eng-
land, where he died, and was buried
in the small village churchyard of
Horsted Keynes, in Sussex. He left
his Library of 3000 vols, to Dunblane,
a great part of which is still preserv-
ed in a house {^^'ith the episcopal
mitre over the door) near the gate of
the churchyard. The whole appear-
ance of the vUlage and ch., which
overhangs the banks of the Allan
Water, is eminently beautiful. The
visitor will recall the fact that it is
the locale of Tannahill's ballad of
"Jessie, the flower of Dunblane."

There is a pleasant walk by the



176



Pioute 21, — StlrUng to the Trossachs ; Bourn. Sect. II.



side of tlie river, passing the W. end
of the Cathedral. The battlefield
of Sherriffimdr is about 2 m. N.E.

At Dunblane the Callander Ely.
branches off from the main line,
which continues N. to Perth (Route
43).



Roide to the Trossachs and Loch
Katrine, ascending the valley of the
Teith.

9 m. Doune Stat. (Woodside Hotel),
a town noted for its Fairs of cattle
and sheep, driven from the western
Highlands. The Castle becomes
visible on the 1. just before arrival
at the station. It is one of the
gi'andest relics of Scottish baronial
architecture. Whatever the date of
its foundation, it owes its present
plan and strength to ]\Iurdoch, Duke
of Albany. After his execution
(1424) it was forfeited to the Crown,
and James IV. settled it upon his
wdfe ]\Iargaret. She married, 3dly,
Lord Methven, a descendant of the
Dukes of Albany, and appointed the
younger In'other of her husband con-
stable of it for life. The office then
became hereditary, and now belongs
to his descendant, Lord Moray. In
1745 the castle was held for Prince
Charles, by Macgregor of Glengyle.
Prince Charles confided to him the
prisoners taken at Falkirk, including
a number of the Edinburgh Univer-
sity Volunteers (among them Home,
the author of "Douglas"), who
escaped by letting themselves down
the walls by tA\asting their bedclothes
into ropes. The situation of the
castle is admirably chosen, on a
triangular piece of ground, washed
on 2 sides by the Teith and Ardoch,
while the 3d is protected by a deep
moat. It is in form an oblong
square, enclosing a lai'ge com't. The
Towers at each angle rise higher
than the walls, and are surmounted
by turrets. The buildings are of
various dates, but no architectui'al
details of beauty or importance re-



main. The walls of the great tower
are 10 ft. thick, and built with
cement. The most modern part is
the interior tower, containing the
kitchen and dining-hall.

The reader of "AVaverley" will
remember that it was in this fortress
that the hero of the tale was confined
by the Highlanders.

The Bridge of Doune was built, as
its inscription informs us, by Eobert
Spittal, tailor to Margaret, queen of
James IV., the same who founded
Sjiittal's Hospital in Stirling.

I m. from Doune, S. of the Teith,

is Deanston, where, since 1785, cotton
mills have been established. James
Smith of Deanston, long manager of
the works (d. 1850), is well known
for the system of " Thorough Drain-
age," which he contributed to intro-
duce. "Waterwheels of great power
are turned by the Teith.

Leaving Doune, the rly. passes the
Braes of Doune on the rt., having
for its highest point Uam Var, to-
wards which the stag in the " Lady
of the Lake "—

" Stretching forward free and far
Seeks the wild heath of Uam Var. "

On 1. is the river Teith, and on rt.
is Doune Lodge (Earl of Moray).

II m. 1. Lanrick Castle, the seat of
A. Jardine, Esq., succeeded by Cam-
husmore (J. B. Baillie Hamilton, Esq.),
where Prince Charles once slept a
night, and where Sir Walter Scott
often resided as a boy, the guest of
the Buchanan family. The rly. here
crosses the Keltic, the very name of
which is sufficient to remind the
traveller that he is on the borders of
the Highlands. Straight in front
rises the giant peak of ]jen Ledi to
the height of 3009 ft.

16 m. Callander Stat. {Inns :
Dreadnought, excellent ; The M'Gre-
gor), is an overgi'own village near the
junction of the streams from Loch



C. Scotland. Boutc 21. — Callander to the Trossachs.



177



Lubnaig with the Teith from Loch
Vennachar. It has of late years be-
come of importance as the nearest
rly. stat. to the Trossachs, Lochs Ven
nachar, Achray, Katrine, and to the
most beautiful scenery in this part of
Scotland, so that it is animated and
bustling enough in the summer
Coaches, 3 or 4 times a day in sum
mer, run between the trains and the
Trossachs, as often as the steamers
on Loch Katrine.

Piaihi-ay to Lochearnhead and
Killin (Rte. 44).

DistoMccs. — Stirling, 16 m. ; Dun-
blane, 11 ; Doune, 7 ; Pass of Leny,
2 ; Loch Lubnaig, 4 ; King's House,
10; Lochearnhead, 14; Killin, 22;
Taymouth, 38 ; Aberfeldy, 44 ; Loch
Vennachar, 5 ; Brigg of Turk, 7 ;
Trossachs Hotel, 9 ; Loch Katrine,
10^ ; Aberfoyle, 11 ; Loch Men-
teith, 5i

Callander is just on the borders of
the Highlands, and the j)oorer class
of inhabitants talk Gaelic as well as
English. The situation is far from
commonplace ; to appreciate it take
the turn to the 1. between the hotels
and stand on the bridge. Above rises
the Craig of Callander, a well-wooded
hill ; and to the rt. is the grand out-
line of Ben Ledi, which is nowhere
seen to gi'eater advantage. Behind,
and about 1| m. beyond the rly,
stat., is the "Fall of Bracklin," a
small cascade of about 50 ft., formed
by the Keltie Burn descending over
a perpendicular face of stratified
rock.

" Bracklin's thundering wave."

It is a rough walk, and there are finer
falls in the district.

At the E. end of the village is an
earthen embankment, supposed to be
the site of a Roman Cam}), which it
resembles in the height and steep-
ness of its ramparts, rising in ter-
races, but not in its gi'ound-plan.
In reality it owes its form to a
peculiar geological formation of the



alluvium. It is evidently to this
work that Sir "W". Scott alludes in
the "Lady of the Lake," when he
speaks of the toiTent that

' ' Sweeps through the plains and ceaseless
mines
On Bochastle, the mouldering lines.
Where Rome, the empress of the world
Of yore, her eagle wings unfurled."

The road from Callander to Loch
Katrine is celebrated for its beauty,
particularly in the latter portion
beyond Brigg of Tmk. It has another
source of interest as following the
line of the Chase described by Scott
in the "Lady of the Lake." The
chase passed over Bochastle's level
green under Ben Ledi's steep slopes
to Brigg of Turk, a sti-eam draining
Glenfinlas into Loch Vennachar.
From that point one sole huntsman
followed the chase along Loch
Achray, whose margin at the time
Avas very rough ground, with scarce
any paths, much less road.

" Between the precipice and brake,
O'er stock and rock their course they
take."

The stag-hunter pressed round by
the head of Ijoch Achray, and close
under Ben Venue, where "the gal-
lant grey " expired.

Passing the junction of the Lub-
naig and Vennachar sti'eams, which
together fonn the Teith, is 1^ m.
Kilmahog turnpike, where the Loch
Earn road falls in from Loch Lubnaig
and the Pass of Leny, which is only
1 m. distant. On 1. is the old farm-
house of Bochastle. A very short
distance beyond is Coilantogle Ford^
' Clan Alpine's utmost gi'ound," at
the outlet of Loch Vennachar, where
the combat took place between Fitz-
James and Roderick Dhu. The ford,
however, is now superseded by a
bridge. At the end of Loch Ven-
nachar are the great Sluices of the
Glasgow Waterworks made to keep
back the Teith in a dry summer, and
prevent its going to waste, by which
the mills and manufactories on its
banks might be stopped.



178



Route 21. — Loch Achray ; The Trossachs. Sect. II.



[Portnellan, about 1^ ni. from
Coilantogle Ford, is the place usually
chosen for the ascent of Ben Lcdi,
which towers on the rt. to the height
of 3009 ft, Ben Ledi, "the Hill of
God," is supposed to have been in
very early times connected with the
mysteries of heathen worship. The
ascent is not difficult from this side,
" but the view is not interesting." —
G. B. A.]

Loch Vennachar, "the Lake of
the JFair Valley, " is 5 m. in length
and 1 in breadth, and serves as a
fitting introduction to the superior
beauties of Loch Achray, so well de-
scribed in the " Lady of the Lake : " —

" Stern and steep
The hill sinks clown upon the deep ;
Here Vennachar in silver flows,
Tliere, ridge on ridge, Benledi rose ;
Ever the hollow path twined on
Beneath steep bank and threatening stone.
The rugged mountains' scanty cloak
Was dwarfish shrubs of birch and oak,
With shingles bare, and cliffs between,
And patches bright of bracken green.
And heather black that waved so higli
It held the copse in rivaky."

The house of Invertrossachs on its
bank ( — Cox, Esq. , Dundee) was the
residence of Queen Victoria, Sept.
1869, for 10 days. Pearls of con-
siderable beauty and value have been
fished up from the shallows of this
Loch, chiefly near its outlets.

Passing on rt. the waterfall of
Miltown, the road strays away from
the lake, leaving Lanrick Mead be-
tween it and the water. This was the
trysting-place of the Clan Alpine,
summoned by " the fiery cross."

" The muster place be Lanrick Mead."
Ben Venue now becomes more and
more visible in front.

The ruined house at the roadside
was Trossaclis New Hotel : it was
burnt down soon after it was built.
Opposite it is the range of Ben
A'an, and the entrance to Glenfinlas,
or "Glen of the Green Ladies."



For the reason of this name see
"Lord Ronald's Coronach," in the
"Scottish Minstrelsy. There is a
bad road up the glen to Loch Voil,
now Lord Moray's deer forest, and
Balquhidder, but the scenery is very
fine, the water struggling and boiling
for some distance through a passage
apparently much too small for it. 1
m. up is the cataract

" Whose waters their wild tumult toss
Adown the black and craggy boss
Of that huge cliff, whose ample verge
Tradition calls the Hero's Targe."

The spot where the hotel stood is
called Duncraggan, and just beyond is
the Brigg of Turk, crossing the Finlas.
[By following the Finlas, the pedes-
trian will find a choice of 3 valleys,
Aaz., Glenfinlas to the W., leading to
Loch Voil ; Glen ]\Lain, which leads
by Glen Buckie to Balquhidder ; and
Glen Cashick (rt.) to Strathyre. It
is about 6 hours' good walking from
the Trossachs to Lochearnhead. Rte.
U.]

For the last 20 m. this route
has been described by Scott as
the one taken by the stag when
hunted by Fitz- James and the rest of
the field : —

" 'Twere long to tell what steeds gave o'er.
As swept the hunt through Cambusmore ;
What reins wei'e tightened in despair.
When rose Ben Ledi's ridge in air ;
Who flagged upon Bochastle's heath,
Who shunned to stem the flooded Teith —
For twice that day, from shore to shore,
The gallant stag swam stoutly o'er.
Few were the stragglers, following far,
That reached the lalce of Vennachar ;
And when the Brigg of Turk was won.
The headmost horseman rode alone."

In fact, so minutely is the whole of
this district described, that the "Lady
of the Lake " is almost a sufficient
guide to its beauties. The road, quite
modern since Sir "Walter first visited
the district, and partly blasted in
the rock, now passes through a wood
of oaks upon the N. shore of Loch
Achraij, a very lovely piece of water
3 m. long by | m. broad, its shores
clothed with copse to the water's



C. Scotland. Route 21. — Trossachs Hotel — Bed-nam-ho. 179



edge. Near its "W. end stands the
Trossachs Ch., a modern Gothic
building. " Fine views, of Loch
Achray, are to be obtained by ascend-
ing the hill behind the TrossacJis
Hotel. At the uppennost point
Ben Venue occupies a prominent
place in the picture, its long rocky
ridge sweeping down in a beautiful
curve, and separating Loch Katrine
from Loch Achray ; the former
stretching far away to the W., em-
bosomed in its bold mountains, and
the latter buried beneath the roman-
tic and rocky ridge of Ben A'an." —
Macculloch.

It must have been in one of the
dells near the head of the Achray,
in full view of Ben Venue, that Fitz-
James's chase ended, by the death
of "the gallant grey."

9 m. Trossachs Hotel (very good),
facing Loch Achray. It is a large
chateau-like building, Avith pinnacled
turrets, about 1^ m. from Loch
Katrine and the steamboat pier. It
was erected by Lord Willoughby
d'Eresby ; in Gaelic it is called Ard-
cheanocrochan. It is a pleasant walk
through the wood from the hotel to
the lake.

The hiD. behind the hotel com-
mands a lovely view of Loch A'an,
Ben Venue, etc. {sec above).

Excursion. — Pass of Bcal-nam-ho
("the Pass of the Cattle"), and the
Goblin Cave. " I can but express my
astonishment that, of the enormous
number of visitors to the Trossachs,
so few visit this pass, within an hour's
walk of the hotel, and offering by far
the grandest scenery in this district.
The lines —

' The dell, upon the mountain's crest,
Yawned like a gash on warrior's breast. '

and those which follow, well describe
the Beal-nam-bo. To visit it, the
tourist on foot may pass from the
hotel round the head of Loch Achray,
cross the Achray water by a bridge,



then turn to the rt., and pass (by
sufferance only) through the yards
of the Achray farm, where a bridge
will carry him over the stream which
descends from Ben Venue, after which
he will find a pleasant path along the
elevated bank of the Achray water,
followed by a somewhat marshy way
through stony meadows, and thus he
will reach the Sluice at the E. end of
Loch Katrine. This is the more in-
structive way of approaching, as it
gives a close view of ' the eastern
ridge of Ben Venue' on one side,
and a view of the rock-hills of the
Trossachs immediately across the
stream on the other side. But the
sluice may be gained somewhat more
easily, not by crossing the Achray
water, but by passing through the
Trossachs and taking a boat to the
sluice ; the row thither is exceedingly
beautiful. From the sluice the walk
must be continued parallel to the
lake side, but separated from it by
rocky swells (some of the 'rocks,
mounds, and knolls, confusedly
hurled,' which Fitz- James saw) ; in
fact it is impossible to walk by the
side of the lake. The dell of the
Beal-nam-bo is now before the tourist,
with the great cliffs of Ben Venue to
the 1., the rocky swells to the rt., and
the narrow cleft, ' which yawns like
a gash on wamor's breast,' high in
front. At two gaps between the
rocky swells there are sloping descents
to the lake side. The ascent to the
cleft is steep, but not very trouble-
some. On the gi'ound there are nu-
merous blocks which have fallen
from the cliffs, some of large dimen-
sions. The whole scene is very
grand. Of the birch-trees which
Scott particularly mentions, very few
remain. After passing through the
cleft, a shoulder of Ben Venue is
reached, I think less than 1000 ft.
above the lake. It does, however,
command the surface of the moors
suiTounding Ben A'an ; and, in the
distance, among other mountains,
the Ben More of Glen Dochart is



180



Eoute 21. — Loch Katrine.



Sect. II.



well seen from it. I have not actually
passed beyond this point ; but it aj)-
pears to me that there is no diffi-
culty in maintaining a rather elevated
course for some distance, and finally
descending by a stream called in the
Ordnance map, Alt Culligart, by
which a practicable road on the lake
side, leading to Stronachlachar, at
the entrance of the Inversnaid Gap,
would be reached. The utility of
the Beal-nam-bo as a cattle-pass is
thus explained. Suppose cattle to be
driven from the S. end of Loch Lo-
mond to Inversnaid and Stronach-
lachar. They could not then proceed
to Loch Achra}'^ by the lake side of
Loch Katrine, because there is no
l^ossibility of passing the cliffs ; and,
though a practicable road may be
found by Loch Ard, and S. of Ben
Venue, they could not venture on it,
as it would lead them into the hostile
district of Menteith. By rising to
the head of the Beal-nam-bo, and
descending to the Achray water, all
difficulties were avoided. Among
the huge blocks in the lower part of
the pass there are many places
which would give imperfect shelter,
but there is none that answers to the
Goblin Cave, and Scott himself avows
this in his note. The place whose
character approaches nearest to it is
that (probably the same to which
Scott refers) to which boatmen
usually conduct strangers, situate in
the lower of the sloping descents
between the rocky swells ; it is utterly
unfit for the rest even of a single
person." — Sir G. B. Airy.

The top of Ben Venue commands
Ben Lomond, Ben More of Glen
Dochart, and other mountains of
Breadalbane.

The road to Loch Katrine, on
quitting the hotel, becomes more
uneven, and soon enters the gorge
of the Trossachs ( " rugged coun-
try"). This gorge extends from
Loch Achray to Loch Katrine, be-



tween the mountains of Ben A'an
(1800 ft.) on rt. and Ben Venue
(2800 ft.) on 1. It is a rugged laby-
rinth of mounds and rocks, covered
■Rith the richest vegetation of oaks and
pensile birch and rowans, among
which the road winds in and out, up
and down, and at each turn presents
a fresh ^dew of the grand crags of
the two mountains above mentioned.
The road runs out of sight of the
river, which escapes from Loch
Katrine. The first view of the Lake
is only of a contracted reach, a pro-
jecting crag concealing the main
basin. As usual there is no better
description of it than that of Scott : —

" But not a setting beam could glow
Within the dark ravine below.
Where twined the path, in shadow hid,
Round many a rocky jiyraraid,
Shooting abruptly from the dell
Its thunder-splintered pinnacle.
Nor were those earth-born castles bare.
Nor lacked they many a banner fair ;
For, from their shivered brows displayed.
Far o'er the unfathomable glade,
All twinkling with the dew-drop sheen.
The briar-rose fell in streamers green.
And creeping shrubs of thousand dyes
Waved in the west-wind's summer sighs."

From the foot of Loch Katrine
a steamer sails 3 or 4 times a day to
Stronachlachar pier, where there are
coaches in readiness to convey pas-
sengers at once to Inversnaid. Em-
barking at a little rustic pier, the
traveller now finds himself upon Loch
Katrine, a sheet of water 9 m. long,
by 2 broad at its widest part.

" Where gleaming 'neath the setting sun
One burnished sheet of living gold,
Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled ;
In all her length far winding lay
In promontory creek and bay,
And islands that empurpled bright
Floated amid the livelier light ;
And mountains that like giants stand
To sentinel enchanted land ;
High on the south huge Ben Venue
Down to the lake in masses threw
Crass, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly

liurl'd,
The fragments of an earlier world,
A wildering forest feather'd o'er
His ruined sides and summit hoar,
While on the north through middle air
Ben A'an reared high his forehead bare."



HHTH OF CLYDE AHRAX, L T-TXH \ ]..LOX(



^.




A










London John ^Murray, Alheniarle Street.



C.Scotland. Route 11. — Loch Katrine ; Ellen' s Isle. 181



The scenery of Loch Katrine,
while undeniably beautiful, is apt
to disappoint, particularly after the
tourist has seen Loch Lomiond. Its
mountain sides are bold and pic-
turesque, but it is not these which
impress the traveller so much as the
dark still transparent water, which
in some places is 500 ft. deep. By far
the most lovely portion of the whole
lake is that from which the steamer
starts, and which is still as it were
wathin the gorge of the Trossachs, par-
taking of its magnificence, and yet
toned down by the softer beauties of
wood and water ; but once this lo-
cality is fairly passed. Loch Katrine
is sui-j^assed by several other Scot-
tish lakes. At the same time it is
not in the power of the great mass
of tourists who hastily race over it to
pronounce an opinion on the beauties
of the district ; but those who can
afford the time and have mind to ex-
plore the woods and rocks at the
base of Ben Venue mil be able to
appreciate "the incredible chaos of
objects, though a chaos of beauty
and sublimity. "

The appellation, too, of " Loch
Katrine " is certainly much more
graceful than the one which it
appears it ought to bear, for Sir
Walter derives the name of the Loch
from the " Caterans" or freebooters,
who frequented its shore in the olden
time.

The traveller should on no account
omit to follow the rough cart-road
along the N. shore of the lake, which
leads in | m. from the steamboat
pier to

Ell^n^s Isle, the scene of the inter-
view between Fitz-James and the
fair heroine. It rises rather abraptly
from the water, not far from the
shore, "its beach of pebbles white
as snow," and is perfectly covered
with trees and tangled underTS'Ood.
It was originally called Eilen
Vaniach, and was the cattle-pen,
shambles, and larder of the Clan



M'Gregor, who hid here their
stolen booty of flocks and herds, and
guarded it by a flotilla of boats
against all comers. Here the main
body of the Lake expands to view.
On the opposite side, at the base of
Ben Venue, is Coir-nan-Uriskan, or
' ' the Goblin's Cave, " where Douglas
hid his daughter when he took her
from Eoderick Dhu's island. Such
a local habitation and a name have
all these spots, that it is hard to per-
suade oneself that they have attained
their celebrity from the creations
of one man. Still higher on the
mountain side is Bealach-nam-bo,
or the Pass of the Cattle — the gap
through which the M'Gregors drove
their stolen herds— the only prac-
ticable way, parallel to the lake-side,
between the summit of Ben Venue
and the lake.

A road, not passable for carriages,
runs along the N. side of the lake to
Glcngyle, whence a track continues
to Inverarnan, at the head of Loch
Lomond, 17 m. No one has seen the
real beauties of lake and shore who
has not traversed this road for the
distance of a mile or so. The only
view which corresponds to Scott's
description of the place where Fitz-
James emerged from the wood upon
the lake can be seen from this path,
and this alone. The steamer does
not go near it.

As the steamer advances, the peak
of Ben Lomond comes into sight on
the 1. and soon after^-ards a row of
shafts nsing one behind the other
from the water's edge marks the
commencement of the Aqueduct of
the Glasgow IVatenvorTcs, by means
of which 70,000,000 gallons of pui-e
bright water are daily conveyed to
Glasgow by tunnels or aqueducts,
through the mountains in the first
instance, then parallel to Loch Chon,
the distance being 34 m. The num-
ber of tunnels on the route is 70, of
vaiying lengths, up to 2650 yards,
and the total cost of this public-



182



Route 22. — Stirling to Balloch.



Sect. II.



spirited scheme was about £1,500,000.
Loch Katrine, in addition to its
beauty, may thus boast of forming
the iinest reservoir in the world. The
surface of the lake has been raised
about 5 ft. by penning up the outlet
of its waters. Lochs Vennachar and
Drunkie share indirectly in the
water contribution, for they supply
the Teith, as compensation for the
water taken away for Glasgow. The
works were the masterj)iece of John
Fred. Bateman, Esq., civil engineer,
and were partially opened by the
Queen and Prince Albert in 1859.
Owing to the purity and softness of
the water an immense saving was
effected in the domestic economy of
the city of Glasgow. {See Intro-
duction, p. 135, supra.)



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