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island of Inishmurray, off the coast of
Sligo. From Clachan it is 7 m. to
Brodick, passing on the way the
junction of the Dugary road, marked
by a highly-ornamented letter-box. ]j

The geologist will notice in the
red sandstone cliffs near Tonnore and
Drumadoon the prevalence of dykes
of pitchstone and trap porphyry.

Continuing the route along the
coast from Torbeg, 33 m. rt. is Tor
Castle, or, as it is commonly called,
Castle Hill, an oblong barrow run-
ning from N. to S., on the top of
which are the remains of 2 circles,
which may have been walls, or simply
stones in position. The larger one
is about 80 ft. in diameter, the
smaller 54. On the S. side are 3
fragments of stone of superior work-
manship to the rest.

On the S. of the Castle Hill is a
smaller barrow, with a very narrow
ridge, upon which there seem to
have been stones also, by the collec-
tion at its foot. The position of
these remains being on the coast,
and principally the W. coast, in-
duces the antiquary to attribute
them to a Norse origin.

[A little beyond the N. of the
Slidry Water, 34 m., a road on 1.
runs to Lamlash, 10 m., a pretty
route through Glen Scorridale, de-
scending by Glen Monymore.] A
little farther on is a good Inn at



198



Route 23. — TiyuT of Arran — Lamlash. Sect. III.



crossed to Kilmory village.

37i m. on rt. is Bennan Head, the
point of termination of the Struey
Clilfs on this side. In the face of
them is the Black Cave, a large, dark
excavation, about SO feet high.

40 1 m. 1. is Essiemorc, or the
Great Fall, in which the water
descends 100 ft. in a long, thin
stream, which is swayed to and fro
by the wind, into a pool, from which
it forces its way through a rocky
channel of red sandstone to the sea.
At its mouth is the village of Auchin-
grew, where there is a ch. and manse.

41| m., at Kildonan village, there
is a small public-house. Off the
shore is the island of Pladda, upon
which there is a lighthouse. Kil-
donan Castle, upon the edge of the
shore, is a square keep of 2 storeys ;
the roof of the lower storey still per-
fect, and a part of the upper one
still left. On the land side is a
splendid line of perpendicular cliffs,
called the "Dippin Rocks," from
the E. end of which a stream spouts
forth, vdlh. a fall of nearly 300 ft.
There is a road from Kildonan
Castle, which rejoins the main road
without returning through the vil-
lage, and passes close to Dippin
Lodge, the grounds of which are
kept strictly private ; then along the
shore of Whiting Bay, on the 1. of
wdiich is the village of Silverbank, so
called from the fine bright sand wiih.
which the coast is covered. At the
back of the village Glen Ashdcde, in
which there is a good waterfall, runs
up into the hills. The sti-eam is
broken in one place only — the first
fall being about 60 ft. high, and the
lowest very much more. The north-
ern point of Whiting Bay is called
King's Cross, from its being the
place where. Bruce is said to have
embarked for Carrick, and opposite
to it are the clifis of



Holy Isle, a picturesque island,
about IJ m. in length, rising to the
height of 1009 ft., and forming an
admirable breakwater to the Bay of
Lamlash. Holy Isle is supposed to
have been the resort of St. Molio or
Molaise, a disciple of St. Columba.
His cave by the shore is marked by
some curious inscriptions in Eunic
characters of the date of the 12th
centy.

The composition of the rocks is
red sandstone overlaid by felstone,
and the surface is covered wdth heath
and the Arbutus uva ursi.

49 m. t Lamlash {Inns : Lamlash
H. ; Bannatyne's ; Kennedy's) is a
straggling village of detached cot-
tages, running along the coast, and
facing the sea and the northern pro-
montory of Holy Isle. It is much
resorted to in the summer, but prin-
cipally by those who are not fortunate
enough to secure accommodation at
the hotel at Brodick. In Lamlash
Bay the Norwegian King Haco
moored his shattered fleet after his
defeat at Largs.

Steamers start from it several times
a day, for Greenock, Ardi'ossan, and
Wemyss Bay.

It is a favourite walk of 4 m. to
Brodick ; both the ascent from Lam-
lash and the descent to Invercloy
affording very beautiful views. The
geologist may see veins of pitchstone
crossing the road.

53 m. Brodick {see above).

The tourist who is anxious to
make a more intimate geological ac-
quaintance with Arran should read
M 'Culloch's admirable description,
which, although a little out of date,
is a magnificent resume of the
mineralogical features. The most
compendious work is Prof, Ramsay's
" Geology " of the island.



W. Scotland. Route 23rt. — Glasgoic to JVemyss Bay. 199



ROUTE 23a.

Glasgow to Greenock and
"Wemyss Bay, by Paisley
and Bridge of "Weir.

(A.) High Level Line. — Stats, in
Glasgow : Union Kly., Dunlop Street,
N. side of Clyde, and Bridge Street
Stat, on S. side — 12 trains daily in
less than an lir. to Greenock.

Crossing the Clyde on an Iron
Bridge, the Caledonian YAj. joins the
South -Western at

Pollockshields Stat. This Glasgow
suburb, along with Ibrox, consists
chiefly of villas.

Rt., see the West-end Park and
Gla,sgow College on the height.

PmMey Junct. Stat., in Rte. 12.
Here the 2 lines to Greenock diverge.
The High Rly. 1. to

Crosslee Stat, is connected with
Johnstone, 11 to 12. Rt., in clear
"weather, Ben Lomond is \'isible.

Bridge of Weir Stat., a small
manufacturing village with mills in
a hollow. After passing

Kilmalcolm Stat. , a wonderful pro-
spect opens out on the rt. over the
valley and estuary of the Clyde from
Dumbarton downwards. From the
great height at which the rly. runs
you have a complete bird's-eye view,
and look down upon smoking steam-
boats, the tops of the chimneys, and
roofs of the towns of Port-Glasgow
and others, through which the Low
Line runs. Xo traveller should fail
to take this route for the sake of the
remarkable view.

The rly. descends through a series
of tunnels partly running under the
streets of Greenock, to

Greenock Stat. (Lyndoch Street),
Here passengers for Wemyss Bay
must change trains.

Greenock TermimisiJlviTboxiT Stat.)
at Prince's Pier, W. of the town.



where all the river steamers call
(Rte. 23).

(B.) From Paisley ly Low Line to
Greenock and Wcinyss Bay.

Houston Stat.

Bishopton Stat. Emerging from
a long tunnel the Clyde opens out to
vi(nv.

Port-Glasgow Stat, {see Rte. 23).

221 m. Upper Greenock Stat.
Near this, among the hills on 1., are
the reservoirs which supi)ly Green-
ock with water, descending in the
stream called Shaw's Water, which
turns many miles.

Ravenscraig Stat.

Inverkip Stat, (see Rte. 23).

30^ m. Wemyss Bay Terminus, 2
hrs. bv rail from Glasgow.



ROUTE 24.

Glasgow to Campbeltown and
Cantyre by Sea.

A steamer stai-ts three times a
week from the Broomielaw, arriving
at Camp1>eltown in 6 or 7 hours.
The first part of this route, down the
Firth of Clyde to Greenock and
Wemyss Bay, is detailed in Rte. 23.
From Wemyss Bay the steamer makes
for the N. coast of Arran, which it
skirts, getting magnificent views of
Goatfell, Kidvoe, Ceum-na-Caillich,
and Glen Sannox, Then the beauti-
ful inlet of Loch Ranza is touched at.
The strait between the W. coast of
Arran and that of Cant}Te is called
Kilbrannan Sound, down which the
traveller steams, passing on rt. the
solitary little kirk of North Tunder-
gay. Then the steamer crosses ob-
liquely over to Cantyre, first touch-
ing at the little fi.shing harbour of
JJarradale, in the village of which
there is a decent Inn. Near Carra-
dale House, overlooking the sea, are
the ruins of Aird Castle ; also a vitii-



200



Route 24. — Campheltown ; CanUjre. Sect. III.



fied fort on a small island. From
this point there is a road along the
coast running northward to Clunaig
and Skipness, at the entrance of
Loch Fyne, and also one running
south through Saddell to Campbel-
town.

Skipness Castle is somewhat dila-
pidated. Its outer walls are 7 ft. in
thickness, and it has 2 projecting
towers, one of which was evidently
the keep of the Castle, and goes hy
the name of "Tur in t' sagairt," the
Priest's Tower. One of its former
owners, a Campbell, called "The
Captain of Skipness, " studied the art
of war under Gustavus Adolphus,
and fought against Charles I. and
Montrose. At Skipness is also the
ruined ch. of St. Columba, which in
its entirety was the largest ch. in
Can tyre, except that of Saddell. — C.
Bede.

Carradale is a good place for ascend-
ing Ben-an- Tuirc, ' ' the mountain of
the boar" (2170 ft.), which is the
highest mountain in Cant3Te. The
hills throughout the whole peninsula
are noways remarkable for their jjic-
turesque features, as they consist
rather of a succession of swelling up-
lands than of rugged or precipitous
heights. Nevertheless, the view from
Ben-an-Tuirc will repay the ascent,
as it includes Ayrshire and Wig-
townshire to the E. ; Ireland, the
Giant's Causeway, and Rathlin Island
to the S. ; Islay, Gigha, and Jura,
with the broad Atlantic, to the W. ;
and northward, as far as Ben Cru-
achan and Ben Lomond.

1| m. S. of Carradale is the pretty
Glen Torrisdale, at the entrance to
which is Torrisdale Castle (J. Hoyes,
Esq.). About 4 m. to the S., is the
glen and Castle of Saddell, one of the
most picturesque bits on the eastern
coast of Cantyre. The castle is a
plain quadrangular tower, with a
machicolated embattlement. There
are also some slight remains of the
monastery of Saddell, founded in



1163 for Cistercian monks, by Re-
ginald, the son of Somerled, Lord of
Cantyre and the Isles. In the old
churchyard are some very ancient
scul|)tured stones, also monuments of
the Macdonalds, the former possessors
of Saddell, concerning whom there
are many singular stories in the
district. A little to the S. of Sad-
dell is Ugadale, the property of Capt.
Hector M'Lean, whose ancestors re-
ceived it in consideration of kind-
ness offered by them to Robert Bruce.
A brooch, presented by him, is still
an heirloom in the family.

At Ardnacross the romantic glens
of Straduigh and Glenluissa run
down to the sea. Presently the
picturesque island of Davar, on
which there is a revolving light,
points out the entrance to the har-
bour of Campbelto^^^l, in whose land-
locked waters the whole navy of
Great Britain might ride safely. At
the head of it, pleasantly sheltered
from the rough winds of the Atlantic,
is James VI. 's royal burgh of

+ Campbeltown {Inns : Argyll Arms ;
White Hart — both moderate and
comfortable), the headquarters of the
distillery trade, and withal a some-
what dirty town, 6628 inhab. It
is of great antiquity, having been the
capital of the early Dalriadan mon-
archy about the 6th or 7th cent.
The principal object of interest in
the town is the Cross, which stands
on a pedestal in the centre of the
main street — date about 1500. The
one side is covered with elaborate
ornamentation, similar to that on the
cross at Inveraray (Rte. 31), and the
other contains this inscription in
Lombardic characters, together with
a few figures of men and animals.
" Hsec est crux Domini Yvari M.
Heachyi-na quondam Pectoris de Kyl-
regan et Domini Andre nati ejus
Pectoris de Kilcoman qui banc crucem
fieri faciebat." Although Campbel-
town is well sheltered, it has no very



W. Scotland. Route 24. — Canty re — Kllkcrran.



201



picturesque scenery, except towards
the Isle of Arran and the Sound.
The population depends principally
on the whisky distillation and the
herring fishery. Of distilleries there
are upwards of 20, which turn out
about 1,200,000 gallons of whisky a
year. This trade has nearly super-
seded the fishery.

Distances. — The Mull of Can tyre,
10 m. ; Dalavaddy, 3 ; Macrahanish
Bay, 5 ; Barr, 12 ; West Tarbert
(coach daily to meet the steamer), 35.

Stejxmer 3 times a week to Glas-
gow.

[A very interesting excursion may
be made round the south coast to
the Mull, skirting the harboiu' of
Campbeltown, and arriving at 1^ m.
Kilkerran, prettily situated at the
foot of the Glenramskill hills, of
which Bengullion is the highest
point, rising to 1160 ft.

Kilkerran (Chil Chieran) claims;to
have been the site of the cell of the
Irish saint St. Kieran, who preached
in the 6th centy., and is believed to
have been the first Christian mis-
sionary to the western portion of
Scotland. He is said to have dwelt
in a cave a little southward, where
the coast trends away to the j\Iull.
Of the church of Kilkerran, once
annexed to the abbey of Paisley,
nothing remains, though the burial-
ground is still used. Between it
and the sea is the old ruined Castle,
garrisoned by James VI. to over-
aw^e the Macdonalds, Avho, however,
thought so little of it that they cap-
tured it and hung the governor from
the walls before the king was well
out of sight. There is a fine view
from Bengullion, on the face of
which is a deep rift.

A little to the S. of Kilkerran is
Kildaloig, the seat of Sir L. Camp-
bell. There is some fine timber
here.



3 m. at AcJianaton, or Achaoan
Head, is the cave where St. Kieran
dwelt. Pennant speaks in high
terms of it : — "These caves are very
magnificent and various ; the tops
are lofty, and resemble Gothic arches.
One has on all sides a range of
natural seats. Another is in the
form of a cross, with 3 fine Gothic
porticoes for entrances. On the floor
is the capital of a cross, and a round
basin, cut out of the rock, full of fine
water — the beverage of the saint in
olden times, and of sailors in the pre-
sent, who often land to dress their
■^actuals beneath this shelter. " From
thence the road keeps tolerably near
the coast-line, crossing the mouths
of Glen Arvie and Coneglen, where
a considerable stream falls into the
sea, amidst some romantic scenery.

Between Glen Ar\'ie and Cone-
glen, close to Southend, is Machri-
rcock, a shooting-lodge of the Duke
of Argyll. As a proof of the mildness
of the climate, a laburnum-tree in
the garden here was in full bloom,
Dec. 15, 1865. Limecraigs, near
Campbeltown, is another seat of the
same family, where the Duchess,
mother of the gi'eat Duke John, once
resided.

At Dunaverty is the Castle of the
Macdonalds, the lords of Cantyre,
where Bruce hid from his enemies,
quitting Scotland from this point to
cross over to Eathlin Island, which
lies some 20 m. to the S.

The castle was situated on the
summit of a very precipitous rock,
which is only accessible from the
land side by a narrow approach, and
obtained its name of Dunaverty from
Dunamortaich, or "rock of blood,"
from the scenes of warfare which it
witnessed. At the close of Mon-
trose's Eoyalist War, 1647, a remnant
of his forces, chiefly Irish, under
Alaster M'Collkeitoch, being de-
feated by the Marquis of Argyle,
took refuge in Dunaverty, from
whence Colkitto sailed to Ireland,



202



Route 2L—Mun of Cantyre.



Sect. III.



leaving 300 men as garrison. During
his absence the Covenanter General
Leslie besieged the place with a
force of 3000 men, and the castle,
which was naturally impregnable,
was forced to yield at last from the
stoppage of the supplies of water.
The unfortunate garrison were all
most cruelly put to death, the only
ones who escaped being a young
man named M 'Coul, and a nurse to
the infant of Macdonald.

About 2 m. off the coast is the
Isle of Sanda, containing a light-
house and a summer residence belong-
ing to the proprietor (D. J. K.
M 'Donald, Esq.)

About 1 m. to the W. of Dunaverty
is Keill House, let as a fishing and
shooting lodge. There is another
large cave here, to which is attached
the legend of the piper who ventured
in with his dog ; the latter eventually
coming out, but the piper losing his
way for ever. The same story is
told of several caves in Scotland,
and particularly of one on the S.
coast of Mull.

About 1 m. inland is Southend,
a neat little village with a decent
Inn. At Carskay the road crosses
the stream of the Glen Breckay, and
farther on that of Glenmanuilt, from
whence it takes the high groiind for
about 2 m. to the lighthouse of the
IMull of Cantyie ; or the pedestrian
may keep close to the coast and visit
the Danish fort at Balcinacumra,
situated at the top of a perpendicular
rock overlooking the sea, and sur
rounded by 3 walls.

The Mull of Cantyre (sujiposed by
some to be the Epidium Promon-
torium of the Eomans), although
of no great height, is attractive
from its Avild and j)recipitous rocks
and the tremendous currents and
tides that beat against them, and
which in rough weather are fearful
to behold. At the summit of the
rock is the Mull Lighthouse, built by
Peter Stuart in 1788, and aftenvards



remodelled by Robert Stevenson : the
tower is sheathed with copper, and
contains a light visible for 22 nautical
miles. The view from it is remark-
ably fine, extending over the N. coast
of Ireland, the island of Eathlin,
Islay, and a vast extent of the
Atlantic. The geological composition
of the rocks is that of the quartzose
sandstones of the Lower Silurian
series.

From the Mull a road runs N.,
vdiloL glorious sea views, every now
and then crossing a picturesque
glen. After passing the Beacon of
Crochmoy, it skirts, about 4 m. from
the lighthouse, the base of the granite
mountain of Sliahh, which rises to
the height of 2000 ft. Under the
northern slopes lies the fine open bay
of Macrihanish, near which is the
parish and village of Kil Coivin,
where the ruins of the ch. or oratory
of St. Coivin are still visible. In the
burial-ground are some curious old
sculptured tombstones.

There is a good road from hence
to Campbeltown through Dalavaddy,
where there is a small patch of car-
boniferous beds, and where coal (of
an inferior quality) is worked to
supph'^ the neighbourhood. A canal
was formed to take it to Campbel-
town to be shipped, but it is found
more convenient to bring coal from
the Ayrshire coast.

From Dalavaddy it is 3 m. to
Campbeltown.]



EOUTE 25.

Campbeltown to Tarbert, by Barr
and "West Tarbert Loch..

A coach leaves Campbeltown every
morning, except on Thursday and
Saturday, for Tarbert, skirting the
western coast of Cantvre, and offer-



W. Scotland. Route 25. — Campheltoion to Tarhert.



203



iug on a fine day a beautiful excur-
sion by what Macculloch calls "a
very amusing road. "

For the first few miles the way
lies inland, through a moorland dis-
trict, relieved at one spot by an
avenue of limes. 4 m. is the ancient
cemetery of Kilchenzie, still in use.
As the road ascends the hill, the
traveller gains on 1. a distant view
of the clitis of Macrihanish Bay.

At 6h ni. is a picturesque glimpse
of Tangy Glen, and again where the
road crosses, farther on, the stream
of the Barr Burn, passing the prettily-
wooded demesne of Glenbar Abbey
(Keith M'Alister, Esq.) The house,
though ancient, has been consider-
ably modernised, and is beautifully
situated amidst rich timber. There
is a decent little inn in the village of
Barr, although its outward appear-
ance is not prepossessing.

The road now regains the coast,
and very fine views are obtained at
Glencrcggan (rt.) "The portion of
the Irish coast seen from Glencreggan
is that of Fair Head and the Giant's
Causeway, in the front of which
Rathlin Island is plainly visible.
Then come Islay and Jura, their
rugged outlines forming one long
bold line against the sky, the Paps
of Jura being the most conspicuous
feature. Between us and them lie
the prett}' islets of Cara and Gigha.
The western coast of Cantyre
stretches in long perspective to the
rt. Islay is about 28 m., and Jura
34 m. in length ; but from the cir-
cumstance of Islay overlapping Jura,
the two at first sight appear to fonn
one long island. These four islands
of the southern Hebrides — Islay,
Jura, Cara, and Gigha (pronounced
" Yeea ") — are a lovely feature in the
view, more especiallj^ when seen from
the moors on the hills behind Glen-
creggan, from whence we can ' ' sight "
anotlier portion of the Hebridean
group — the islands of Colonsay and
Oronsay ; and still farther to the rt.
the island of Scarba, with the Gulf



of Corryvi'echan, while shado^^y Mull
fills in the background." — Glencreg-
gan, by C. Bede.

From Glencreggan the road winds
down a steep hill to the seaside,
where there is a cave with the
unpronounceable name of Beallo-
chaghaochean, and then keeps close
to the shore to Mausdale \illage, in
the parish of Killean. A little be-
fore reaching the church the traveller
gets a peep up the Clachaig Glen.
In the village a tall chimney calls
the attention to the manufacture of
starch from the farina of potatoes,
now given up. Beyond the manse
and kirk of Killean are the ruins of
the old kirk, very rude and primi-
tive, though containing a double
window with tooth moulding.

18 m. Tayinloan village, near which
the road passes Largie Castle, the
seat of C. Moreton Macdonald, Esq.,
a fine modernised building of the
Scotch baronial style, in a prettily-
wooded park, through which flows
the stream that rises in Loch Ulaga-
dale. The Llacdonalds of Largie
were in former times the most con-
siderable proprietors in Cantyre.

[From Tapnloan there is a ferry to
the island of Gigha (or Yeca), about
4 m. distant from the mainland, and
separated from the smaller islet of
Cara by the still smaller one of
Gigulum. The principal village in
Gigha is Ardminish, on the W. coast,
which boasts of a ch. and a manse,
but there is not much to see in the
island save a fortification in the
middle of the islet called Dun Chifie,
and a blow-hole, called in Gaelic Sloc-
an-leim, or the Squirting Cave, from
which the sea in rough weather throws
up high jets.

l!s'ear Ardminish kirk are a few
remains of an older one, with sonie
monumental relics. Cara also has
an old ruined chapel.]



204



Bouie 2G. — Glasgow to Islay and Jura. Sect. III.



At Kilmichael tlie road crosses
auotlier picturesque stream, that has
its source in Loch Garisdale,

25 m. Ronachan, the seat of Allan
Pollock, Esq. , celebrated in Scotland
and Ireland for his enthusiasru and
success in model farming.

A little farther on is the village of
Claclian, prettily situated in the bot-
tom of a dell, to which several streams
converge. It is sheltered by the woods
and grounds of Ballinakill. The hill
of Dunskeig, which overlooks it on
the L, is marked by a vitrified fort
and some intrenchments. It is worth
ascending for the sake of the lovely
view over West Loch Tarbert, a long
narrow Highland loch that runs
inland for about 11 m., and sepa-
rates the districts of Cantyre and
Knapdale.

The wooded shores of Knapdale
have been taken advantage of by
owners of property for their resi-
dences, several of which grace the
loch. As the road from Clachan to
Tarbert surmounts the steep hill, the
traveller gains a view in succession
of Ardpatrick House (Capt. James
C. Campbell), and Dunmore (W.
Campbell, Esq.) On the E. side of
the loch the road passes Stonefield
(C. G, Campbell, Esq.) and the vil-
lage of Whitehouse Inn, where a
road on rt. is given off to Skipuess
and the E. coast of Cantyre.

+ 35 m, Tarbert {Inn : Islay Arms),
a busy and important village, the
chief centi'e of the herring-fishery of
Loch Fyne, is most picturesquely
situated at the head of East Loch
Tarbert, which is about 1 m. in
length, and in its rugged rocks and
landlocked waters widely differs
from the softer beauties of West
Loch Tarbert. The East Loch is
overlooked by the Castle, which,
though now crumbling, Avas once
the stronghold of Cantyre, and for a
time the residence of Kobert Bruce
and King James II. It "is said



to have been supplied with water
from the other side of the loch, con-
veyed under the harbour by pipes."
The visitor \\\1\ be interested in all
the busy preparations for herring-
fishing, and the loading of the
steamers, if his olfactory nerves are
not too strongly acted on by the
smell of the fish.

Tarbert, or Tarbet (Gaelic, Tairb-
lieart = an isthmus), is a name which
frequently occurs in Scotland. In
this instance it describes very well
the "portage" between E. and W.
Lochs Tarbert. The same may be
said of Tarbet on Loch Lomond,
which is only 1 i m. from Loch Long,
and indeed of every place that bears
this name. This narroAV neck is not
much more than 1^ m. across. Plans
have been suggested for cutting a
ship-canal through it.

The "lona" calls daily in the
summer from Glasgow to Ardrishaig,
and arrives oft' the pier on Loch
Fyne, which is about § m. from the



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