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soon enters the noble estuary of

Loch Fyne. The view is now
bounded by the hills of Cowal on the
rt., and the equally monotonous ones
of Knapdale on 1., having in sight,
lower down on Cantyre, the castle
of Skijmess (Rte. 24).

The steamer next wends its way
up Loch Fyne, one of the largest
Scotch sea-lochs, which stretches for
about 10 m. beyond Inveraray, alto-
gether a distance of some 40 m. It
is famous for its herrings, which,
when eaten fresh, are an entirely
different article of food from herrings



as usually bought, and indeed are
one of the greatest delicacies of the
fish department. The fishing has
latterly, however, very much dete-
riorated from some unexplained cause.

The steamer touching at Tarbert
(Rte. 25) gives passengers an oppor-
tunity to land in Cantyre, a penin-
sula of Argyllshire, stretchings, into
the sea 40 m., and also to catch the
Islay steamer which comes up to
West Tarbert, about Ih m. hence.

A coach leaves East Tarbert daily
(except on Thursdays and Satur-
days) for Camjjbeltown, arriving there
about 9 in the evening. (Rte. 25.)

The steamer now passes on 1. Bar-
more, the handsome modern seat of
Mr. Campbell of Stonefield, and the
long ridge of Sliabh Ooil, generally
supposed to be the scene of the
death, from a wild boar, of Ossian's
"Diarmid." On the opposite E.
shore lie the picturesque wood and
mansion of Ardviarnock (Dr. Nicol).
Above Barmore is Inverneil Kirk, a
little beyond which the steamer
arrives at the head of Loch Gilp and
i" Ardrishaig, where the traveller
leaves the " lona," to be transferred
by the Crinan Canal to the Oban
boat. The heavy baggage is at once
taken out and put into large vans,
which are driven across the isthmus.
The distance from the "lona" to
the passage boat is about 5 of a mile,
which the tourist has to walk, the
only disagreeable part of the journey,
as there is always an immense crowd
assembled on the pier, partly of
fishermen, partly of touters and por-
ters, and partly of the passengers
from Oban waiting to embark in the
returning " lona."

For those who wish to stay at
iArdrishaig, the Royal is a good Ian.
During the season a coach starts
from the pier on the arrival of the
steamers to convey tourists to Ford
on Loch Awe, where a steamer
meets the coach. This is a magni-
ficent route to Oban (Rte. 28).



212



Fa



97



■Crinan Canal ; Crimui.



Sect. III.



The Crinan Canal, by Avhich
passengers are conveyed across the
isthmus from Ardrishaig on Loch
Fjaie to Crinan on the W. ocean, is
9 m, long, and was cut in 1822 to
obviate the necessity of the long and
dangerous voyage round the Mull of
Cantyre, for which purpose it is
broad enough to receive ships and
steamers of considerable burden. It
is supplied with water from natural
reservoirs in the hills, the banks of
one of which gave way in Feb.
1859, and by flooding the canal,
caused it to burst its boundaries.
It was closed for 15 months, in con-
sequence of this accident, traces of
which are even yet visible.

The passengers are conveyed in
a tiny but neat steamer, with a
roof to it, which, when crowded with
tourists, presents a curious appear-
ance. The distance is completed in
2 hours, one being entirely taken up
by the delays at the 9 locks. During
these stoppages most people get out
and walk, rejoining the boat at the
last lock. The scenery along the
canal is peculiar, and in many places
exceedingly picturesque, the bed of
the canal having been deeply ex-
cavated out of the mica schist, from
which great thickets of underwood
and bramble spring up, mingled
with flowers and ferns.

For the first 2 m. the boat skirts
the bay of Loch Gilp, at the head of
which is Lochgilphead village, and
(on the opposite side) Kilmorie, the
mansion and beautifully-wooded es-
tate of Sir J. Orde, Bt. Then come the
residence of the Bishop of Argyll, the
county Lunatic Asylum, and on 1.
the grounds of Auchindarroch (A.
Campbell, Esq.) Halfway the sum-
mit level is reached, and the descent
to the Atlantic commences.

At 6i m. 1. is the village of Bella-
nacli [Whence a very pretty road
runs S. to Loch Siren, a beautiful
and characteristic fiord. The tourist
should proceed due S. for 1 m., when
the road diverges. Take the one to



the 1. to Kilmichael Litssa, 5 m.,
where a boat may be obtained.
About 3 parts down the loch on the
E. is Castle Swen or Siveno, a strong,
square fortress. At the very mouth
of the loch, and forming part of the
promontory that divides it from Loch
Killisport, is Eilean Mor, which con-
tains the ruins of an early oratory
and chapel of St. Cormac, with the
tombstone of a priest, who is repre-
sented in his robes, with some gro-
tesque figures. There is also a CJuipel
at Kilmory, with many old sculptured
monuments, near the end of the pro-
montory. From Keills, on the W.
coast of Loch Swen, the pedestrian
can obtain a ferryboat to Jura, 8 m.]

N'ear Ballenoch the river Add
joins issue with the canal, flowing
through a wide and open moorland.
An enormous quantity has been re-
claimed, at a very great expense, by
John Malcolm, Esq., M.P., of Pol-
talloch, whose beautiful house is seen
on the N., overlooking the estate,
backed up by rising woods and craggy
ridges of hill. Model farming has
been carried on largely here, and, it
is believed, with very profitable
results.

At Crinan, a village with an Inn
and a Lighthouse, where the canal
terminates in the Sound of Jura, the
passengers again betake themselves
to the steamer for Oban, a voyage
of 3 hrs. The accommodations on
board the steamer "Chevalier," or
any other of Hutcheson's boats which
may happen to be on the route at the
time, are quite as good as those of the
" lona." On this side, if the wea-
ther is rough, the passengers may pro-
bably get a taste of the Atlantic swell,
although the number of islands breast-
ing the sea generally secure an easy
passage inshore. From the village
of Crinan, which is on the IST. side
of Loch Crinan, a road runs along
the coast to Oban, by Melfort Pass
(Rte. 28). On the moss of Crinan is
Lunadd, the ancient capital of Dal-



W. Scotland. Boute 28. — Jrdrishaig to Oban, by Loch Awe. 213



riada (Skene). As the steamer leaves
Loch Crinan, through " Dorish-
more," "the great gate," it passes
on rt. Duntroon (J. Malcolm, Esq.)
an old fortress modernised, and then
(also on rt.) the entrance to Loch
Craignish, another of the character-
istic W. coast arms, with a string of
islands dotting it. On the point is
Craignish Castle. " The coast from
Craignish Point to Loch Melfort
presents many striking scenes, pro-
duced by the remains of trap veins,
which, like those in Mull, stand
up like walls and castles on the
shore." — Macculloch. To the 1. is
seen the island of Jura, with its long
line of dark hills, forming a bold
skyline. The 3 dome -shaped mount-
ains are the Paps of Jura, behind
which is Islay (Rte. 26.). To the
N. of the island, separating it from
Scarba, is the dreaded Gulf of Corry-
vrechan (Rte. 26), and beyond it are
the islands of Orousay and Colon-
say.

The vessel now passes, a number
of inlets and islands — Loch Melfort,
at the head of which is the village of
Kilmelfort, Scarba, Lunga, Luing
Island, and the island of Shuna,
succeeded by those of Easdale and
Sheil, both famous for their slate-
quarries. Emerging again into the
open, fine views are obtained of
the cliffs of Mull, which, on the
S. and S. W., present magnificent
escarpments. Between Shell and
Luing Island is the Sound of Cuan,
through which a tremendous current
generally flows. Shell island is se-
parted from the mainland by a narrow
strait, across which is a bridge of 70
ft. span. On rt. is Loch Feochan,
beyond which the tourist occasion-
ally gets a distant view of Ben
Cruachan, and the steamer soon
after enters the Sound of Kerrera,
formed by the island of Kerrera,
which makes an excellent natural
breakwater for the harbour of Oban.
At its S. end is the ruined castle of
Gulin, an old Danish fortress, in



which Alexander II. died in 1249,
having come to the W. with the in-
tention of recovering the Hebrides.

On the rt. is Gallenach House,
the seat of Major J. M'Dougall. At
the ]Sr. j)ortion of the Sound the
steamer rounds the point, and enters
the harbour of

Oban (Ete. 31).



ROUTE 28.
Ardrishaig to Oban, by Loch
Awe and Gorge of the Brander.

A tourist's coach leaves Ardrishaig
daily during the season, after the
arrival of the "lona" and the Oban
steamer, conveying the passengers to
Ford, at the head of Loch Awe. Here
it forms a connection Avitli a steamer,
which makes the journey up and down
once a day, meeting at Cladich the
coach to Inveraray, and bringing
on its passengers to Brander, where
a third coach is waiting to go on to
Oban. A few miles before reaching
Loch Awe a 4th coach is met, return-
ing to Oban by the pass of Melfort,
so that tourists can now leave Oban
by one coach and return to it the
same day by another route, or can
do the same thing as regards Oban
and Inveraray.

Passing through the village of
Ardrishaig, and leaving that of Loch-
gilphead (Rte. 27) on rt,, the road
takes a N. course through a tolerably
level bit of countrj'-, and crosses the
Add, a rapid sti^eam, rising in the
hills between Lochs Awe and Fyne,
and falling into the Atlantic at
Crinan. 3 m. the road passes the
village of Kilmichael Glassary, once
celebrated for its Cross, now re-
moved to the grounds of Poltalloch,
It is a conspicuous feature in the
landscape, which here becomes
broken and picturesqiae.

linear Glassary is Kirnan, of which
the last occupant was Archibald



214



Route 28. — Loch Awe.



Sect. III.



Campbell, grandfather of the poet,
who, when he visited it, found it
ruinous, which called forth the
lines —

** At the silence of twilight's contemplative
hour
I have gazed, in a sorrowful mood,
On the wind-shaken weeds that embosom
the bower
Where the home of my forefathers stood.
All ruined and wild is their roofless abode,
And lonely the dark raven's sheltering
tree."

10 m. Kilmartin is a pretty village,
with the spire of the Ch. crowning the
hill, and the shell of an old tower.
In the churchyai'd are several old
monumental crosses. There is an-
other old ruin a little farther on,
at Carnassary, on the bank to 1. of
the road. At this point the coach
is met by one bringing passengers
from Oban to make the round by
Loch xVwe, and receiving others from
tlie Ardrishaig coach.

Ascending a long hill, Loch Aligan,
a beautiful little lake, makes its ap-
pearance, with the residence of
Elderline on its E. bank ; it is
closely succeeded by Loch Awe, at
the head of which (at the Inn of
'\ Ford) the tourist changes his con-
veyance, and betakes himself to the
small steamer.

Loch Aioe is one of the largest
and most beautiful of Scottish lakes,
although the characteristics of most
lakes, of possessing the finest scenery
at the head, is here reversed, the
head being comparatively tame, and
the foot being magnificently grand.
The researches of geologists bear out
the theory that these positions have
been reversed. "The present out-
flow of the lake through the deep
narrow gorge of the Pass of Brander
is comparatively recent. No one can
ascend from the Sound of Jura to
Kilmartin, and thence up the ter-
raced valley to Loch Awe, without
being convinced that this must have
been the old outlet of the great
valley of that loch." — GeiJcie. The



length is about 26 m., and a little
steamer makes the trip once a day.
Roads run alongside each bank for
the whole length, but they are not
very good ; the best is on the E.
side. The hills on either side are of
no great height, and are somewhat
tame, but as the passenger sails north-
wards, the enormous mass of Ben
Cruachan fills up the landscape to
the N., and constitutes one of the
most striking scenes in the High-
lands. On an island at the S. end
on rt.is the shell of the old castle of
Fconachan, and about a quarter of
the distance on rt. is Eredine, the
property of N, Malcolm, Esq.
Higher up is Inish Chonel, with the
ruins of another fortress that
anciently belonged to the Lords of
Lochaw, through which district the
tourist is now journeying. There is
an old Scotch proverb, " It's a far
cry to Lochaw," originally emanat-
ing from a Campbell, who was over-
powered by enemies in the distant
N., but it ultimately was used to
signify the" enormous breadth of the
Campbells' possessions, inasmuch as
any challenge from an enemy could
not reach them. Close to Inish
Chonel is Innis Errech, containing
an old chapel and cemetery. About
2 m. farther on the same side is the
waterfall of Blairgour, where the
stream falls into such a precipitous
gulf, that in wet weather its situation
is conspicuous for a long distance by
the immense column of sj)ray rising
from it. On the opposite side of the
lake is the mouth of a stream issuing
from lioch Avich.

At Port Sonachan there are two
good Inns, one in iV., the other in
*S'. Sonachan — capital rendezvous for
anglers. Also a ferry to the W. bank,
from whence a wild road runs to Tay-
nuilt, about 6 m. From Port Son-
achan northwards is the cream of
Loch Awe scenery, as the steamer gets
nearer and nearer to the rifted masses
of Ben Cruachan, and the fine valley



W. Scotland. Route 28. — Cladich — Pass of Bmnder



'2\D



of Glen Strae. At Cladich there is a
small Pier to embark passengers from
Inveraray by the coach which runs
thence to Dalmally (6 m.) and Oban
(Rte. 31). If the weather is wet or
gusty, it is by no means a pleasant
way of getting to Inveraray, as the
tourist has sometimes an hour or more
to wait for steamer or coach, and
there is no shelter- — not a shed. The
road from Inveraray continues from
Cladich 6 m. to Dalmally, and there
falling into the Tyndrum and Oban
road. Having taken in the Cladich
passengers, the steamer turns round,
and crosses the lake, which is here con-
siderably broader. It lands passen-
gers for Dalmally at Inystrynich,
and passing Kilchurn Castle (Rte.
31), Innisfail island, with its old
ecclesiastical ruins and cemetery, and
Innisfraoch, where the M'Naughtens
had a (ruined) castle, glides under
the shadow of Ben Cruachan, into
the arm of the lake which forms the
commencement of the Pass of Awe or
the Brander.

" Ben Cniachan stands as fast as ever.
Still downward foams the Awe's fierce
river."

Here the mountains on each side
close in with a startling abniptness,
casting a shade over the deej) dark
waters of the lake, and leaving room
only for the carriage-road along the
side. The most wonderful effects
are produced after rain, when hun-
dreds of cataracts dash down on either
side, and by reflection in the water
make it appear as though there were
an inverted arch of waterfall through
which the vessel is sailing. In about
'1\ m. the crags rise still more abrupt-
ly, until all further passage is stopped
by the straitened egress of the river
Awe, foaming and plunging in its
rocky channel on its way to Loch
Etive. The Pass of Awe is supposed
to be the place where Macdougall of
Lorn disputed the approach of Robert
Bruce in 1308, and was defeated by
him, in consequence of allowing the



king's troops to gain a superior
vantage ground. From here the
rest of the journey to Oban, 17 m.,
is performed by coach, which is found
waiting the arrival of the steamer at
Brander (Rte. 31).

Distances. — Taynuilt Inn, 7^ m. ;
Dalmally, 6 ; Connell Ferry, 14 ;
Oban, 17.

[The route to Oban from the point
where the Ardrishaig coach is met
is not as fine as that by Loch Awe.
At the village of Kintraw the head
of Loch Craignish is reached, the
road crossing the stream and Glen of
Doin, and passing on rt. Barhreck,
the seat of John M 'Archer, Esq.
Loch Craignish is one of the most
beautiful inlets on the coast, from
the number of wooded islands that
are dotted about, and it is well worth
the pedestrian's attention. At Barach-
a-hcan, on the coast of Loch Sliuna,
a bye-road is given off S. to Craig-
nish promontory, and another on E.
to Loch Avich. At the head of Loch
Melfort are the village, powder-mills,
and distillery of Kilmelfort. From
here a road is given off on rt. to Loch
Avich, the "Loch Launa" of Ossian,
a large sheet of water full of fish.
It is di-ained into Loch Awe by the
Avich river, the course of which is
marked by a series of fine falls and
deep pools.

Between Kilmelfort and Kilninver
the road is fine at the Pass of Mel-
fort. At the latter village a road on
1. is given off to Shell Island and
Easdale, where a considerable popu-
lation is employed in working the
slate-quarries.

The scenery on the banks of Loch
Feochaii is very picturesque, and,
together with Loch Nell, with which
it is connected by a short river, is
often the subject of an excursion
from Oban, which is 8 m. distant
from Kilninver. 1



216



Route 29. — Glasgow to Dunoon: Kilmun. Sect. III.



ROUTE 29.

Glasgow to Inveraray by Dunoon,
Kilmun, Holy Loch, Loch Eck,
and Loch Fyne.

Steamer — Glasgow to Dunoon.
(Rtes. 23, 27).

Dunoon to Stracliur — 25 miles —
good road and pretty scenery.

This is a pleasant and picturesque
way of reaching Inveraray, but fa-
cilities are no longer given by the
running of a coach, except from
Strachur to St. Catherine's, whence
there is a steamer across Loch Fyne.

f Dunoon {Inns : Argyle, well
placed ; Douglas) is one of the best
patronised of the Glasgow watering-
places, and from its position, com-
manding the whole sweep of the
Firth of Clyde, most deservedly so.
One of the best points for enjoying
this view is the top of the conical
rock, at the angle of West Bay, which
bears traces of the foundations of an
ancient Castle which played a con-
siderable part in the history of the
olden time. It was taken from the
English by Sir Colin Campbell of
Lochaw, for King David Bruce, who
made him hereditary governor, an
office which has descended to the
Duke of Argyll.

20 or 30 steamers call at the pier
daily, going up and down.

The road leaves to the rt. the
village of Kirn {Hotel: Queen's),
a prolongation of Dunoon, and skirts
the western shore of Holy Loch, a
small though beautiful inlet of the
sea about 2^ m. in length, surrounded
by hills of considerable height. On
the N. shore is Hafton (James
Hunter, Esq.).

On the opposite shore is f Kilmun
— another freqiiented marine rendez-
vous. {Inn: FierH.) Like Dunoon,
it boasts of antiquity in the remains



of a collegiate Church, of which the
Tower alone remains (1442), and a
}>urial vault, where the dead of the
mighty family of Argyll rejiose, in-
cluding Duncan, Lord Campbell, the
founder, 1553, the Marquis, beheaded
1661, whose head was stuck on the
Tolbooth of Edinburgh. It is pro-
bable that the Holy Loch took its
name from Kilmun (the ch. of St.
Mun).

A steamer from Greenock touches
here several times a day. The valley
of the Echaig, a very pretty stream,
leads up to Loch Eck, a really fine
lake 7| m. in length, although not
much more than ^ of a mile in
breadth. Its beauty consists in the
steep and abruj^t rise of the hills from
the water's edge, especially on the W. ,
the lofty range of Benmore, separat-
ing Loch Eck from Glendaiiiel. Con-
sidering how near Loch Eck is to
large and fashionable watering-places,
its Mild and solitary aspect aifords
an unexpected contrast.- * ' It resem-
bles indeed, in many respects, the
lakes of the north of England,
closely embosomed in their own
compact mountains, yet of unex-
pectedly steep and bold acclivity."
— Anderson. Halfway up it is the
inn of Whistlefield [whence a bye-
road of 4| m. runs down Glen Finart
to Ardentinny on Loch Long (Rte.
30), where the pedestrian may catch
a steamer up to Arrochar, or down
to Glasgow^. From the head of the
loch the road ascends by the side of
the Noiton, until it reaches the
watershed, and descends to

Strachur, on the E. bank of Loch
Fyne. Near it is Strachur House
(D. Campbell, Esq.). The view from
this spot and for the rest of the way
is charming, over Loch Fyne, the
mountains at its head, the town and
Castle of Inveraray, and in the gap
over the shoulder of Duuaquoich the
far-off mass of Ben Cruachan.

t At St. Catherine's (small Inn), is
a FeiTy to Inveraray, 2 m. by row-



Argyll.



Fife. 30. — Glasgovj to Inveraray: Loch Goil.



217



boat in ^ hr. ; and by steamer (fare
Is.) twice a day in 10 minutes.

Coach to Lochgoilhead.

Inveraray (Rte. 31). {Hotels: Ar-
gyll Arms, good ; George.)



ROUTE 30.

Glasgow or Greenock to Inver-
aray, by Loch Goil, or by
Helensburgh and Loch Long,
and Arrochar.

Steamers leave the Broomielaw and
Greenock daily for Lochgoilhead,
and the steamer "Chancellor,"
saloon-decked, for the head of Loch
Long (Arrochar) — a voyage of about
4 hours. From Lochgoilhead a
coach runs in summer to St.
Catherine's, where there is a ferry to
Inveraray,— and at Arrochar the
tourist must take his chance of getting
a seat on the Tarbet or Inveraray
coach. The Loch Goil steamer calls
at Greenock (Rte. 23), and taking a
N.W. direction across the Firth of
Clyde, and leaving on rt. the entrance
to Gareloch, the first place called at
is

+ Kilcreggan, a row of small florid
villas along the shore, continued
without interruption for 2 miles
to t Cove, on the margin of Loch
Long. The most remarkable and
largest of them are Hartfield (D.
Richardson, Esq.) and Craigrownie
(Alex. A. Abercromby, Esq.) There
is a fine view from the hill between
Kilcreggan and Roseneath.

+ Blairmore on the W. Change
steamer here for Lochgoilhead. From
Cove there is a charming walk up
to the ferry of Coulport, passing a
number of handsome houses. Con-
spicuous among these Knock Derry,
on a high prominent rock, mentioned
in the "Heart of Midlothian" as
Knock Dimder. It replaces the old
castle, but stands upon its dungeons
cut in the rock.
\^ScotJand.'\



1 m. beyond is Ardpeaton (J.
Walker, Esq.), and at Coulport there
is a handsome house belonging to Mr.
J. Kibble, and adjoining it a pretty
Swiss cottage, not far from the Free
Kirk.

The road on the E. shore stops at
Coulport, whence there is a ferry, 1^
m. across, to

W. t Ardentinny, a collection of
houses at the mouth of Glen Fiunart,
up which runs a pleasant road to
Loch Eck and Straclmr, on Loch
Fyne (Rte. 29), and to Inveraray.

[About 9 J m. Loch Goil * opens out
to the N.W, It is even more land-
locked than Loch Long, owing to a
turn at the entrance. A little way up
on the 1. bank are the ruins of Carrick
Castle, one of the former strongholds
of the Argyll family. It consists of
a square keep with a projecting out-
work and portion of curtain wall.

At LochgoilMad, 8 m. from
the entrance, is a comfortable Inn,
surpassed by few for beauty of situa-
tion and fine scenery. The hills
at the head of Loch Goil are splen-
didly grouped, and are named in
Gaelic according to some fancied
shape or attribute, such as Ben Dio-
lad, the Hill of the Saddle; Ben
Bheula, from its bright and plenti-
ful verdure ; Ben Donoeh, the Hill
of one field, etc. Of more noble pro-
portions is Ben Ular, which fills up
part of the district between Loch
Goil and Strachur. The severity of
the head of the loch is, however, re-
lieved by the woods and grounds of
Drimsynie (R. Livingstone, Esq.) A
coach, corresponding with the steamer,
runs to St. Catherine's steam ferry,
on Loch Fyne, opposite Inveraray
{see Rte. 29), 8 m. From the inn a
road of 6 m. brings the tourist to the
shore of Loch Fjme, passing through
a romantic glen known by the name
of '■'' HelVs Glen,''^ immortalised by

* It is a common blunder of the Guide
Books to confound Loch Goil with Loch
Gi/h, the scene of Campbell's " Lord Ullin's
Daughter." (.See Mull, Route 35, p. 233.) ,



218



Route 31. — Loch Lomond to Oban. Sect. III.



Wordsworth. From Ardno on the
Loch Fyiie shores it is nearly 2 m.
to St. Catherine's, where there is a
2 m. ferry across the lake direct to
Inveraray (Rte. 31).]

Loch Long, which, if not the most
extensive, is, perhaps, the most beau-
tiful of the sea lochs, runs into
the heart of Argyllshire for about
20 m., though in breadth it never
exceeds two, and is seldom more than
one. Half-way up, the knotty ridge
of hills known as Argyll's Boivling
Green projects in a sort of mountain
promontory, causing the branch
water of Loch Goil to be deflected to
the W.

This sinuous loch is not to be
visited by strange yachts without



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