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jjilotage. It is best to approach it
by road. The m.ouutain forms at its
head are especially grand. For
some distance there is no road on
either shore.

The steamer to Arrochar does not
go up Loch Goil, but after touching
at Dunoon and Kirn, keeps her
course straight up Loch Long.

E. at t Portincaple, opposite the
mouth of Loch Goil, is a ferry, whence
a steep path across the moor falls into
the high road from Garelochhead
along the E. shore of Loch Long to

Arrochar (Rte. 31), where the
steamer stops about 1^ hr. before
returning to Greenock.

From Arrochar the tourist can
either proceed to Inveraray through
Glencroe by the coach, or walk or
drive to Tarbet, and there catch the
Loch Lomond steamer either up to
Inverarnan, or down to Balloch
(Rte. 19).

Distances of Arrochar from — Tar-
bet, on Loch Lomond, 2 m. ; Glen-
croe, 6 ; Rest-and-be-Thankful, 9 ;
Inveraray, 22 ; Ben Lomond, 6.



ROUTE 31.

Loch Lomond (Tarbet) to Oban,
by the Pass of Glencroe, Inver-
aray, Loch Awe, and Dalmally.

Coach to Inveraray, 22 m. in 4 hrs. ,
fare 8s., every morning, from Tarbet
Hotel {see Route 19).

It is a long stage to post ; no relay
nearer than Inveraray, and a hilly
road.

A narrow isthmus of moderate
elevation divides Loch Lomond from
the sea — Loch Long. Over this pass
the Norwegian ships of Haco were
dragged and launched in Loch Lo-
mond to ravage its islands and shores.
An avenue of oaks lines the way
to Arrochar (a 2 m. walk) through
this lovely cross glen, opening out
upon Loch Long.

+ * Arrochar (a good In7i, near
the Pier. Omnibus to Tarbet on
Loch Lomond. Every day in summer
a steamer comes hither from Greenock
and Glasgow, and remains here 1^
hr. before returning to Greenock.)

The situation is exquisite, the
mountains, which here rise to more
than 3000 ft., overhang the lake
so closely as only to leave enough
space for the road. The most peculiar
of the mountains is Ben Arthur,
the Cohhler (2883 ft.), so called from
its singular grouping of rocks at the
summit, which resemble a cobbler
stooping to his work. The adjoining
summit is the Cobbler's Wife.

From Arrochar the road winds
round the head of Loch Long, com-
manding a fine view of Ben Lomond ;
next it turns into Glencroe. This
must not be confused with the more
celebrated Pass of Glencoe, near Bal-
lachulish. It is a green but treeless
valley, with black rocks projecting
through the greensward, and ranks
high among the wild and desolate



Argyll. Ftte. 31. — Glencroe ; Loch Fync ; Imcmray. 219



mountain valleys of tlie South High-
lands. The summit of the pass,
which is about 4^ m. from Loch
Long, reached by a long ascent in
zigzags, is marked by a well-known
rude stone seat, inscribed " Eest-and-
be-Thankful," erected at the time
the road was made by the 24th
regiment in 1746.

"Doubling and doubling with laborious

walk,
Who that has gained at length the wished-

for height,
This bi-ief, this simple wayside call can

slight,
And rest not thankful?" — Wordsworth.

The zigzags are continued 1. by a
road leading to Lochgoilhead. Ours
turns rt., and a little farther on a
stream is crossed, running into Loch
Restil (1.), from whence the road de-
scends through the pastoral valley of
Glenkinglass, and reaches Loch Fyne.

linear 14 m. Cairndo^v. Here is
a tolerable Inn. To the S., over-
looking Loch Fjoie, is Ardkinglass
House (G. F. W. Callender, Esq.) At
Caimdow is a ferry to the opposite
bank, by which the pedestrian will
save nearly 3 m., but the shortest road
to Inveraray turns S., and follows the
E. shore of Loch Fyne to

+ St. Catherine's Ferry, where the
Loch, 2 m. wide, may be crossed at any
time by row-boat, and 4 times a day
by steamer in 10 min.

The usual road from Arrochar
bends round the head of the loch
and crosses the valley of Glen Fyne,
which runs up almost to the borders
of Perthshire. It is carried down the
W. coast of the loch, gaining a
charming view of Inveraray, and
passing

20 m. the ruined tower of Dun-
derawe, a fortress of the M'Naughtens,
on the gate of which is the date
1596, and an inscription. The road,
however, has to make another circuit
by the little bay and glen of Shira, in
order to reach

24 m. t Inveraray {Inns : Argyll



Arms, good ; George ;) chief town of
Argyllshire (Pop. 902), residence of the
Duke of Argyll, is finely placed on a
bay of the W. shore of Loch Fyne,
into which pour 2 small streams, the
Ara and Shira. Between these rises
the grand wooded conical mil of
Duniquoich.

On a level green meadow at its
base, thick-set with ancestral trees
— beech, lime, Scotch fir, and ash of
great age and growth, some of the
finest to be found in Scotland — stands
the Castle of the Duke of Argyll. It
is neither an attractive nor imposing
edifice, having been erected in the
castellated style before that style was
understood, about 1750, by Adams,
for Duke Archibald. The original
town or village was removed to its
present site to make way for it. The
old castle, to which the exciting scenes
in the " Legend of Montrose " belong,
stood nearer the sea, and is quite
swept away. The actual castle is a
spacious quadrangular structure of
greenish grey slate or soapstone,
which in rainy weather becomes
almost black, with round towers at
the angles, surmounted by a central
tower. The great hall under it is
ornamented with ancient arms, among
which are the muskets used by the
clan at Culloden. The drawing-
room and gallery are decorated with
tapestry, paintings, and family por-
traits. Lord Frederick Campbell,
by Gainshorough, John the Red,
"Jeanie Deans," Duke of Argyle,
etc., deserve notice.

The toA^Ti, I m. from the castle,
consists of a row of whitewashed
houses, and a broad street running
from it, in the middle of which the ch.
is planted. At the end of this, on the
shore, stands a very elegant Cross,
resembling those of lona, richly
sculptured with foliage, animals, and
the worm ornament. It is thought
to have come from a neighbouring
old cemetery called Kilmallen. On
the edge is a commemorative Latin
inscription for Duncan, Patrick, and



220



Route 31, — Inveraray to Oban: Cladkli. Sect. III.



Maclmore MacGilh^comghan, Near
the top a florid Gothic arch is repre-
sented, proving the date of this
monument not to be earlier than
the 13th cent.

At the side of the hotel a noble
avenue of beech trees leads into woods
behind the town, which are the
principal features in the scenery, and
into the Glen of Essachosan. Few,
if any, places in Scotland are more
beautifully timbered than the policies
of Inveraray Castle. Boswell had
great pride in pointing them out to
Johnson.

A frequent and easy excursion is up
the conical hill of Duniquoich, which
forms the terminating buttress of the
range of hills between Glens Aray
and Shira, and commands beautiful
views of both valleys, as well as of
the town and Loch Fyne. It is
also a fine drive from the base of
Benbhuie to the Duke's granite
quarries of Furnace, overlooking the
loch some miles to the south. The
lower portion of Loch Fyne, below
Inveraray, is considerably tamer than
its head, the hills rising to no great
height, and exhibiting a rather mo-
notonous outline. The artist will
find the finest view of the Lake and of
Inveraray from the road to Strachur,
about a m. S. of St. Catherine's
Ferry.

Conveyances from Inveraray. — In
the season there are daily coaches
to Tarbet on Loch Lomond, and to
Oban, — Ferry steamer 4 times a day
to St. Catherine (for Loch Goil),
thence coach to Strachur for Lock Eck
and Dunoon) (Rte. 29). There is a
Steamer twice a week direct to Glas-
gow, but it is chiefly designed to
carry cargo, and cannot be recom-
mended as a speedy means of transit,
particularly during the herring
season.

The visitor during that season
will not repent making acquaint-
ance with the Loch Fyiie herrings,
which are here of peculiar delicac}^.



The arms of the town of Inveraray
are a herring in a net.

Distances. — Tarbet 24 m., or 20 m.
crossing the Ferry to St. Catherine ;
Cairndow, 10 ; Ardrishaig, 23 ; Glen-
croe, 16 ; Cladich, 11 ; Oban, 40 ;
Port Sonachan, 14 ; St. Catherine,
2 ; Strachur, 5 ; Dalmally, 16 m.

The road to Oban is carried
through the Duke's domain, and
up the picturesque vale of Glen
Aray, at the mouth of which In-
veraray is situated. The woods abound
with some of the finest specimens of
spruce, larch, and silver fir to be
found in Britain, and, from the variety
and density of the foliage and the size
and age of the trees, form altogether
a specimen of forest scenery hardly
surpassed in the W. of Scotland.
Within the first 3 m. there are 3
vaterfalls on the Aray, the last,
called Linnhe-ghlutain, being the
finest. Arrived at the summit level
of Glen Aray, there is a magnificent
view of Loch Awe, with Ben Crua-
chan flinging its mighty shadows
over it. A series of steep descents
leads to,

19 m., Cladich, where there is no
Bin (Rte. 28), but 1^ m. lower down
the lake is a small wooden pier, with-
out shed or shelter, where the steamer
may be caught, either in its daily
ascent to the head of Loch Awe (for
Ardrishaig), or on its return to the
Brander for Oban.

Nearly 3 m. to the S. is Port Sona-
chan (2 Inns, one on each side of loch),
a favourite and retired resting-place
for artists and fishermen. From either
of these places charming water excur-
sions can be made to Inish Chonel,
Innishail, Eredine, Blairgour, and
Innis Errech (Rte. 28).

The road, stiU veiy hilly, keeps
on the E. side of Loch Awe to Dal-
mally. On a conspicuous knoll, rt.
of road, which is also a fine point
of view, a Grecian Temple (!) is set
up as a monument to M'IntjTe,



W. Scotland. Route 31. — Kilchum Castle; DalmaUij. 221



a Gaelic poet. On 1. a spacious
tract of meadow ground projects into
the lake, npon whicli stand the im-
posing ruins of Kilchum Castle,
consisting of an oblong building, with
a square keep, flanked by bartizans.
It has been celebrated by Wordsworth
in a sonnet —

" Abandoned by thy rugged sire,

Nor by soft peace adopted, though in place
And in dimension such that thou might'st

seem
But a mere footstool to yon sovereign lord,
Huge Cruachan."

The oldest part of it was built in
1440 by Sir Duncan Campbell ; the S.
and the N. sides were added in 1615
by Sir John Campbell, Knight of
Rhodes, ancestor of the Breadalbane
family. Sir Duncan Campbell's
grandson married the heiress of the
Lords of Lorn, and took the title of
Lorn with its extensive possessions.
The property of his descendant
(Earl of Breadalbane) now extends
from the sea to Aberfeldy, a distance
of something like 100 miles. Many
of these glens were in former times
the property of the ]\I 'Gregors, until
dispossessed by the Campbells.

"Glehorchy's proud mountains, Kilchum
and her towers,
Glenstrae and Gleulyon, no longer are
ours."

There being no roads to this part of
the country in those times, the Camp-
bells easily found refuge at home out
of reach when in difficulties, their
favourite motto being "It's a far
cry to Loch Awe. "

16 m. DalmaUy, a pretty village,
but out of sight of the lake, in a
grove of ti'ees (a fair Inn, fishing on
Loch Awe), whence it is possible to
ascend Ben Cruachan, though Ben
Awe is better. It is charmingly
situated at the mouth of Glenorehy,
near the ch., and close to the junc-
tion of the great road from Tyndrum,
and the head of Loch Lomond (Rte.
34). In the ch.-yd. is buried Dun-
can M'lntyre, the Highland poet.
[1 m. E. of Dalmally the Tyndrum



road divides, and a picturesque branch
runs 1. up Glenorehy, in which there
are waterfalls, and joins the Glencoe
road near Loch Tullich, and Inver-
uran Inn (Rte. 34)].

Quitting Dalmally, the road crosses
the Orchy, passes the kirk, and soon
afterwards the mouth of Glen Strae,
the second of the large northerly
glens that fall into the basin of Loch
Awe, once the haunt of the ]\Iac-
gregors, who were put down by the
Camj^bells. It then skirts the base
of Ben Cruachan (3670 ft.), the giant
of the line of mountains that bound
Glen Strae and Loch Etive. Towards
Loch Awe it presents a long front,
and its immense bulk woiild lead
one to suppose its height far greater
than it is. This front is very steep
and wooded, and the little streams
which trickle down are easily con-
verted into foaming cascades. The
slates constituting its base "dip"
steeply into the bed of the lake, and
rise equally steep on the S. side.
The islands in the lake exhibit ver-
tical strata.

" The ascent of Cruachan is tedious
(it takes about 6 or 9 hrs.), but not
difficult, and from its position no less
than its altitude, it presents some of
the finest and most extensive moun-
tain views in Scotland. Compared
to Ben Lomond, it is a giant, and its
grasp is no less gigantic. From the
bold granite precipices of its sharp
and rugged summit, which is literally
a point, we look down upon its red
and furrowed sides, into the upper
part of Loch Etive, and over this
magnificent group of mountains,
which, extending N. and E., display
one of the finest landscapes of moun-
tains in the Highlands. Its com-
manding position not only enables us
to bring under our feet the whole of
this group as far as Appin and Glen-



coe, and even to Ben Ni



but



opens a view of the whole of the
eastern chain of mountains, reaching
from Rannoch as far as Ben Lawers
and Ben Lomond, and beyond them



222 Fioute 31.— Ben Cruachan ; Pass of A ice. Sect. III.



to lands which only cease to be
\'isible because they at length blend
with the sky. While it looks down
on the long sinuosities of Loch Awe,
and over the irregular lands of Lorn,
bright with its numerous lakes, it
displays all the splendid bay of Oban
and the Linnhe Loch, with Jura,
Islay, and all the other islands of the
coast, commanding besides the hori-
zon of the sea, even beyond Tiree and
Coll, together with the rude moun-
tains of Mull, and the faint blue
hills of Eum and Skye." — Alac-
culloch.

The road from Dalmally to Oban
takes many a wide sweep, many
a rise and fall, around the base of
Ben Cniachan, obtaining lovely views
of Loch Awe, and nearly approach-
ing Kilchurn Ccistle, rising on its
rock pedestal out of the marsh.

22 m. from Inveraray the road
enters the grand Pass of Avjc or
Brandcr (Rte. 28), where Loch Awe
finds its exit through a gap, which
marks a great structural break or dis-
placement, opened between Ben Cru-
achan on the E. and on the W. "a
broken escarpment of bed, dipping at
a Avholly different angle." To this
great displacement of strata is due
the hollow forming the bed of Loch
Awe. {Sec Duke of Argyll on Lake
Basins.) The river Awe, the sole
outlet of the lake, rushes down to
Loch Etive in a foaming and furious
stream. "In front the heights of
Cruachan terminate abniptly in the
most frightful precipices, which form
the whole side of the Pass, and de-
scend in one fall into the water
which fills its trough. At the N.
end of the Pass lies that part of the
cliff called Craiganuni ; at its foot
the Lake contracts its water to a
very narrow space, and at length
terminates in 2 rocks called TJie
Rocks of Brandcr, which form a
straight chaimel somewhat resembl-
ing the lock of a canal. Here the river
Awe pours out its current at a furious



rate, over a bed encumbered with
rocks. " — " Chronicles of Canongate. "

The Loch Atvc steamer from and to
Ford and Port Sonachan lauds pas-
sengers or receives them, at a small
wooden Pier close to this Bridge.
The scene of Awe is described in
Scott's "Highland Widow,"— "The
tremendous mountain, Ben Cruachan,
rushes down in all the majesty of
rocks and wilderness to the Lake,
leaving only a Pass in which, not-
^\dthstanding its extreme strength,
the warlike clan of ]\IacDougall of
Lorn was almost destroyed by the
sagacious Robert Bnice. That king,
the Wellington of his day, had ac-
complished, by a forced march, the
unexpected manceuvi'e of forcing a
body of troops round the other side
of the mountain, and thus placed
himself in the flank and rear of the
men of Lorn." — W. Scott.

[From the Bridge of Awe a road
of 2 m. branches off rt. to Bonawc,
on the shores of Loch Etive. Here
is an iron furnace erected in 1753,
for the smelting of ore brought
from England, by the aid of char-
coal fuel. This is almost the only
instance where charcoal has not been
superseded by coal. Bonawe is the
best place from which to ascend Ben
Ciaiachan. Old Inverawe House is
the seat of J. A. Campbell, Esq.
There is a ferry at Bonawe, and a
corresponding road on the other side
ranning W. to join the Oban and
Appin road (Rte. 36).]

30 m. Taynuilt (Inn, tolerable
angling quarters ; Mr. Bright stayed
here, 1871-1872). On the eminence
rt. of the road is a rude Stone Monu-
ment erected to Nelson's memory, by
the workmen of the Bonawe Iron
Furnaces, 1804. The spot commands
a glorious view of Ben Ciiiachan, etc.
[A road 6| m. runs direct from this
over the hills and down upon Loch
Awe, opposite Port Sonachan, pass-
ing through the district known as



W. Scot. Pde. 31.— Z. Etive ; Conml Ferry ; Dunstaffnage. 223



Muckaiu, and running up the Lorn
Water. There is a ferry across the
lake to Port Sonachan.]

Taynuilt is a good place for ex-
cursions up Loch Etive, one of the
longest of those fiords that indent
the W. coast of Scotland — running
inland some 15 m. in length in the
direction of Glencoe. The mountain
ranges on the lower portion of Loch
Etive are not high or striking.
"Above Bona we it is not like the
same loch. For a couple of miles it
is not Avide, and it is so darkened by
shadows, that it looks less like a
strait than a gulf; huge overhang-
ing rocks on each side ascending
high."—/. JFilson. The loch head,
in addition to Ben Cruachan is girdled
by Ben Slarive, BiichaiJc Etive (2537
ft.), the bleak ujilands of Dalness
Forest, Ben Trilehain, Biddanabian,
and others of less height. Loch
Etive can be explored only in a
boat ; the upper end is accessible by
a road from King's House, Glencoe.

[On the N. shore, between Bonawe
and Connel Ferry, is the ivy-covered
Ardchattan Priory (Mrs. Popham),
so called from Caton, a follower of St.
Columba, founded in the 13th centy.
by the M'Dougalls for Benedictine
monks of the order of Valliscaulium,
a reformed branch of the Cistercians,
and destroyed in the l7th by Col-
kitto. Robert Brace on one occasion
held a Parliament here, one of the
last at which the business was con-
ducted in the Gaelic language. The
eh. is of E. English date, and consists
of a simple nave, without piers. In
the interior are the tombs of Duncan
and Dugald, fonner priors, with some
curious sculptured figures, including
one of Death, with a toad beneath
the knees.]

The road to Oban rans along the
shore of Loch Etive to

37 m. Connel Ferry (Ptte. 36),
situated at the mouth or sea-opening
of Loch Etive, which is not only
contracted by the approximation of



the opposite shores, but is also ob-
structed by a reef of rocks stretching
two-thirds across, which, at spring
tides, during ebb, presents the phe-
nomenon of a Sea Cataract, pouring
over the obstructive wall of rock,
5 or 6 ft. high, with a tremendous
roar. " The greatest depth of the
loch above these falls is 420 ft. At
the falls themselves there is a depth
of only 6 ft. at low water, Avhile out-
side this barrier the soundings reach,
at a distance of 2 m., 168 ft. Loch
Etive is thus a characteristic rock-
basin, and an elevation of the land
to the extent of only 20 ft. would
isolate the loch from the sea, and
turn it into a long, winding, deep
freshwater lake. ^^—Geikie.

Not far from Connel Ferry (on rt.
of road), and commanding the entry
into the loch, is the ruined castle of
Dunstaffnage, the seat of govern-
ment amongst the Scots from about
500 A.D., till by their conquest of
the Picts in 843, they found it ne-
cessary to have a capital in a more
central situation. The Coronation
stone, now in AVestminster Abbey,
was used here before it was carried to
Scone. The belief that this stone,
the ' ' Lia Fail, " carried sovereignty •
with it was at one time verj^ strong,
both in England and Scotland.

The castle afterwards became the
stronghold of the I^ords of Lorn, and
was taken by Robert Bruce soon
after his victory in the pass of Awe.
It stands upon a natural pedestal of
puddingstone, or conglomerate rock,
and the entrance is reached by a
naiTow staircase. The building is
said to belong to the 13th centy.,
but, as it now stands, exhibits slight
evidence of construction older than
the 15th ; it is of coarse masonry.
It is an irregular 4-sided structure,
with a round tower at 3 of the angles,
the remaining angle being also
rounded. The circumference of the
whole is about 400 ft., and the walls
are in some places QQ ft. high and 10



224



Boute 31. — Dunstaffnage ; Oban. Sect. III.



ft. in thickness. On the castle wall
are some of the brass guns which
were fished up from one of the ships
of the Spanish Armada sunk off
Mull. The Castle is now the pro-
perty of the Crown ; a Royal castle.
The magnificent I'ieic from it of B.
Cruachan and other hills gives an
interest to the spot not possessed by
the ruins. There is an old chapel
close by, which seems to date about
a century later than the castle. It
is the burial-place of Campbell of
Dunstaffnage.

On the opposite side of Loch Etive
is a grand line of cliffs, called Cragan
High, "The King's Rock," formed
of a singularly hard and mixed con-
glomerate. The tourist may also
visit the ancient fort of Dun j\Iac-
sniochan (Rte 36)].

Descending a steep hill, passing
rt. Dunstaffnage and Dunolly, the
road enters

Oban, {Inns: Great Western H.,
large house facing the bay, good
rooms, but expensive ; Craig- Ard Inn
and boarding-house on a height
above sea ; Alexandra House, facing
sea ; Caledonian, comfortable, and
less expensive, but near port and
pier ; King's Arms. Oban (2413
inhab.) is a general resting-place and
starting-point for travellers by sea
and laud — a focus for conveyances.
It has been familiarly styled "the
Charing Cross of the Highlands."
It is also an incipient watering-place.
It consists chiefly of inns and lodg-
ings, with some pretty villas on its
outskirts. It is very pleasantly
situated on a land-locked bay, shel-
tered in front by the island Kerrera,
beyond which are seen the moun-
tains of Mull. Obe Ann, in Gaelic,
means Little Bay. The tourist who
arrives at Oban by the road has an
advantage over those coming by the
boat, inasmuch as the latter do not
get to Oban until the evening, and
then there is apt to be a great rush
to the Hotels for beds. If not arriv-



iu'^ till the evening, it is almost
necessary, at the height of the season,
to write or telegraph for rooms.

The visitor should walk to the
headland, on the south, from whence,
particularly at sunset, he will have
a splendid view of the town and
crescent-like bay, with Ben Cruachan
rising grandly in the E., while in
the W. Loch Linnhe, Kerrera and
Lismore Islands, and the noble
mountains of Mull, form a magnifi-
cent background.

Alt-na- Craig, the cottage residence
of Prof. Blackie, is in one of the best
situations.

Oban abounds in all kinds of
churches, and there is a very neat
Gothic Episcopal Chapel, near to the
Great Western Hotel.

Excursions. — A short mile to the
N., overlooking the sea, is Dunolly
Castle, a square keep, very limited
in space, from the great thickness of
the walls. A little of the exterior
rampart is left, also of the dungeon.
The ruins stand on a precipice, and
are approached by a steep ascent from
the land side, originally intersected
by a moat. This Avas also a strong-
hold of the Lords of Lorn. It is now
the property of Admiral Sir John
M'Dougall, the lineal representative
of the Lords of Lorn, and the chief
of the clan ]\l 'Dougall, whose modern
house is just below the castle. The
" Brooch of Lorn," torn from Robert
Bruce in the battle of Dalrigh, is
here preserved. Admission through
the gi-ounds tmce a week, but the
ruins may be reached in a boat.

About 5 m. distant on the shore
stands the Clach-a' Koin, an upright
stone with a hole in it, to which it is
said Fingal used to tie his dog Bran.

Excursions to Dunstaffnage Castle
(distance 3 m.), described above,
commanding a magnificent view : —
to Connel Ferry on the N., remark-
able for its sea cataract ; — to the
beautiful scenery of Lochs Nell and
Feochau {i m.) on the S. (Rte. 28).



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