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ments is oblong, and measures 420 ft.
by 375, with its 4 sides nearly facing
the cardinal points of the compass.
The prffitoriuni is a regular square of
60 ft. in the centre of the camp, and
stands upon slightly rising ground.
Upon the X. side of this, the smallest
camp, is the Procastrum, 1060 ft. by
900, where the baggage was placed ;
and N.AV. of that is the Great Camp,
2800 ft. by 1950, which is considered
to have been able to contain 26,000
men. The form of this camp is ob-
long, but not a regular parallelogram.
Gen. Wade's road enters it by its
S. gate, and has thus destroyed part
of the vallum. The N. gate is a little
E. of the road, and covered by a
straight traverse, and another gate
on the W. is protected in a similar
manner. The 3d stauds on trhe W.
of the great one, apparently within
it, its ramparts crossing those of
the larger one, which was evidently
the older, and seems by its superior
state of preservation to have been
occupied at a subsequent period, when
a part of the original force Avas with-
drawn. It is probable that they were
all constructed by Agricola.

A covered way is supposed to have
led to Camps Castle, about 1 m. far-
ther N., on the road to Crieff. In
the neighbourhood of Ardoch are
Braco Castle (G, Kellie M 'Galium,
Esq.).

15.^ m. BlacJcford Stat., to the 1.
of which is Orchil House, and rt.
Gleneagles (Earl of Camperdown),
a modern mansion at the mouth of
a fine pass leading through the
Ochills. The village (on rt.) is
devoted to shoemaking.

18 m. Crieff Juxct. A branch
is given off 1. to Crieft', 8i m.
(Ete. 45.)

Between Crieff Junction and

20 m. Auchterarder Stat., the line
passes rt. the remains of Ogilvy
Castle, once a place of great strength.



On 1. is a fine view of the Perthshire,
ranges (Grampians).

Auditerarder, a town full of
weavers, a street a mile long. Pop.
4000 (1.), is of little importance
in itself, but was of considerable
notoriety as the scene of the events
which led to the disruption of the
Scotch National Church in 1843.
Auchterarder, with Dunning and
other places in the neighbourhood,
was burnt by the Earl of Mar in 1715,
to impede the progress of the royal
troops, for which compensation was
promised to the sufferers in a ]>rocla-
mation from the palace of Scone.
In the park of Kincardine Castle
(modern) is a beautiful glen 3 m.
long, crossed by the railway on a
viaduct.

24 m. Dunning Stat., between
which and the village is Duncrub, the
seat of Lord Eollo.

The rly. now approaches and keeps
parallel with the Earn to

26 1 m. Forteviot Stat. On Holy
Hill, near the ch., are remains of a
royal residence of very early times.
It was the favourite summer quarters
of Kenneth II., and was probably
taken by him from the Pictish kings.
Duncan and Macbeth spent the chief
part of their time here, as did also
Malcolm Canmore and his son, whose
charters are dated from this place.
But the acquisition and importance
of the Lowlands, the' English edu-
cation, and Saxon and Norman
adherents of the succeeding kings
made a more southerly residence de-
sirable, and soon after Malcolm's reign
Forteviot was allowed to go to ruin.

14 m. S. of the station is Invermay
(Hon. Lady Clinton, formerly seat
of the Belshes), near which the river
May rushes down from the Ochills in
a wild and broken stream ; in one
place it is called Humble-Bumble,
from the deep booming sound kept



276



Route 4:3.— Perth.



Sect. IV.



lip by the water between narrow
walls of rock.

14 m. from the stat., on the N. side
of the Earn, is Dupjylin Castle (Earl
of Kinnoul), a modern house, com-
pleted in 1832, its predecessor having
been burnt down in 1827. Its style
is Elizabethan, and the cost of its
erection was £30,000. It was visited
by the Queen in 1842. Dupplin was
the scene of a battle, in which
Edward Baliol and his English
auxiliaries defeated David Bruce in
a night attack in 1332.

Near Forqandenny, 294 1^-5 ^^^^
Eossie (S. Oliphant, Esq.), Newton
of Condie (L. Oliphant, Esq.), and
Freeland (Lady Ruthven). The rly.
now crosses the Earn, and, join-
ing the Perth and Edinburgh Ely. ,
emerges through a long tunnel into
Perth, near the South Inch — a wide
meadow planted ^vith an avenue of
trees, stretching to the Tay, and enters
the well-arranged and handsome

33. i m. Perth Junct. Stat. {Inns :
Pople's British H., near the Stat.,
good ; Royal George, George-st., near
the Bridge ; Salutation, South-st.)
Post Office at E. end of High-st.

The city of Perth (Pop. 28,250)
is charmingly situated upon the rt.
bank of the Tay, and is a place of
great antiquity. Considering that
it is an old historic city, long a
residence of Scottish kings, it may
surprise a stranger that it should
possess no remains of antiquity, until
he calls to mind that this was the
place where Knox, in 1559, preached
his first sermon inciting to " the
purging of churches from idolatry."
The immediate pulling down of the
religious houses, the Black and Grey
Friars and Carthusian convents, by
the hands of "the rascal multitude,"
as Knox styles them, Avas the conse-
quence of his eloquence.

There is a story that the Roman
soldiers of Agi'icola, when they came
in sight of the Tay and the South



Inch, exclaimed " Ecce Tiberis ! ecce
Campus Martins " — a compliment
which Sir Walter Scott has turned
as follows —

"'Behold the Tiber!' the vain Roman

cried,
Viewing the ample Tay from Baiglie's side ;
But Where's the Scot that would the vaunt

repay,
And hail the puny Tiber for the Tay ? "

The Railway Station, one of the
principal buildings, is situated at the
S. W. angle of the town, and the chief
streets — Victoria, South, High, and
^lill streets — run from W. to E. to-
wards the Tay.

The river is crossed by a bridge of
9 arches, built 1771, by Smeaton, and
connecting the level plain, on which
the city stands, with the Kinnoul
Hills, 'the lower slopes of which are
studded with villas.

On the N. side of the town, near
the spot where the Free "West Kirk
now stands, stood the Dominican
Convent, where, in 1437, James I.,
the Poet King, so long prisoner in
Windsor Castle, and author of " The
King's Quliair," was assassinated.
From that time Perth ceased to be
the capital of Scotland. The king's
guards on this occasion were dispersed
in the town, and the locks and bolts
had been removed by the assassins
from the doors of the monastery.
On the first alarm caused by the
onslaught of the conspirators on the
building, Catherine Douglas, a lady
of the bedchamber, thrust her arm
into the socket of the bolt which
barred the door. A momentary delay
was caused by this slight impediment,
but speedily her arm was broken and
the assassins rushed in. During this
pause the king had time to conceal
himself in a vault under the room,
into which he lowered himself by
taking up a plank. The conspirators
at first could not find him, and went
out. In their absence the queen
and the ladies tried to raise the
king out of the vault again, but
in the attempt Catherine Douglas



Scotland.



Route 43. — Perth.



n i



fell into tlie vault beside the king,
and at this unlucky moment the con-
spirators returned, and despatched
both the brave lad_y and the king.
I'he principal conspirator in the mur-
der was the Earl of Athol, though
the one who actually slew the king
was Sir Robert Graham.

At the extreniit}^ of South-st.,
facing the Tay, the County Buildings
and Jail occupy the site of Gowrie
House. They contain portraits of
General Lord Lyndoch and Lord
George Murray, etc. On this spot
occurred the mj^sterious Gowrie con-
spiracy, 1600, when James VI.,
enticed by the Earl of Gowrie and
his brother, under the pretence of a
disclosure of a treasure of gold, Avas
seized and bound, and all but carried
off in a vessel moored in the Tay
close at hand, prepared to deposit
him a prisoner in Fast Castle, in the
hands of Logan of Restalrig. The
king's cries aroused his attendants.
The Gowries were slain on the spot,
and he was released.

The North and South Inch are two
wide meadows, situated on either
side of the town, and left open for
the enjoyment of the inhabitants.
The South Inch is by far the larger,
and is surrounded and intersected by
avenues of noble sycamores and other
trees. On the N. Inch, occurred,
1396, the memorable combat between
the clan Chattan and the clan Quhele
(Kav), so admirably described in
Scott's "Fair Maid of Perth." It
was fought in the presence of the
king by 30 champions on each side.
A man was wanting on one, but
his place was filled by a bandy-legged
smith (Chrom Gow) of Perth, who
fought well, and contributed to the
victory, without knowing why or on
which side he was fighting.

The principal Church in the town
is St. John's, between South-st. and
High-st. From it Perth was often
known as ^^ St. Johnston," and its
war-cry was "St. John's hunt is



up." It is said to have been founded
in the 5th centy. Nothing of that
age remains. The existing building
is a cruciform ch., with a central
square tower surmounted by a low
spu-e. IS'o doubt the tower is very
old, but the general character of the
church is Dec. Its interior has been
broken up into three ditferent places
of worship (E., Middle, and W.),
of which the W., or nave, is the
oldest. Certain portions are set apart
for the different guilds of the
town. There is a circular arch over
the entrance on the S. side. In the
E. ch. is a monument to Lord
Gowrie, and another to the officers
of the 90th Regiment (Perthshire
Light Infantry) killed before Se-
bastopol. The bells are rung every
day at 6 A.M. and 10 p.m.

Episcopal service is performed at
^S"^. Ninian's (near the N. Inch), the
cathedral ch. of the diocese, but only
the choir and transept are finished.
St. John's is a quiet Ej^isccrpal C%cq)cl
in Princes-st., near the S. Inch.

The old jail in High-st., opposite
the Post Office, has an octagonal
tower, supposed to have been built
by Cochrane, architect to James
IIL

A circular Grecian temple has been
erected in George-st. to the memory
of E. T. Marshall, one of the most
popular of provosts. It now serves
as a local Muscuni, and contains a
library and some pictures. There is
also a monument to Sir Walter Scott
at the end of High-st. ; and a statue,
by Brodie, of the Prince Consort on
the K'orth Inch — it is very insigni-
ficant. Facing the N. Inch are the
Public Schools — a group of seven,
for different classes of scholars,
under the management of the Town-
Council.

Excursions. — There is nothing so
interesting at or near Perth as the
ascent of Kinnoul and Moncrieff
Hills and the views from their tops.

a. Kiwnoul Hill, the N.W. head-
land of the Sidlaw range, rises ab-



278 lloutes 43, Scone. — 44, Callander to Dunkeld. Sect. IV.



ruptly from the 1. bank of the Tay,
Turning rt. beyond the Bridge, a
road 1. next leads up the Hill, past
the Rom. Cath. Retreat, a modern
Gothic building ; then by path
through the wood. Looking back,
Perth is displayed to gi-eat advan-
tage, while from the S. brow of the
hill the eye ranges over the lower
course of the Tay, backed by Mon-
crieff Hill. In quarries round the
base of the hill agates are foimd. At
the foot of the hill is Kinfauns Castle
(Ld. Gray.)

c. To the S. of Perth, 4 m., between
the Tay and the Earn, rises Moncricff
Hill, from which may be obtained
the best general view of the town
and country ; the beauty of its woods,
and the fertile garden from which it
rises, justifying Pennant's boast that
it is the " glory of Scotland." The
summit, 756 ft. above the sea, is ac-
cessible by a carriage-road. The view
extends E. to Dundee and the mouth
of the Tay, N. over a vast extent of
the Highland ranges beyond Dun-
keld, with the city of Perth at the
foot, and W. up Strathearn.

Scoiu, Palace, the modern seat, on
an ancient site, of Lord Mansfield, is
2J m. from Perth, but no admittance
is granted except by special order.
There is little left about the place,
except the name, to mark its anti-
quity or former importance. In the
Eoyal Chapel the many Scottish
kings from Kenneth II. to John
Baliol, including Robert the Bruce,
Robert II., James I., and Charles II.,
were crowned, but no memorials are
left. The stone on which the Pictish
kings sat at their coronation at Dun-
staffnage, and which was brought
hither by Kenneth II. for their suc-
cessors, was carried to England by
Edward I., and is now in West-
minster- Abbey. On the " Moot-
hill," a mound N. of the abbey, the
King sat to hold Parliaments and
Law Courts. In 1704 W. Murray,
the illustrious Chief Justice Mans-



field, was born liere, March 2. The
coronation of the chevalier James
Stuart here in 1716 was a mere un-
fulfilled design. The abbey was
sacked by the Perth mob, 1559, after
Knox's sermon. An aisle belonging
to the old abbey ch. is still standing.
It serves as the burial chapel of the
family, and contains several monu-
ments. A large one of marble com-
memorates a Lord Stormont. The old
market-cross stands in the pleasure-
grounds of the palace. In the in-
terior is some old furniture and
pictures, and a coverlet, said to have
been worked by the hands of Queen
Mary.

Raihvay to Edinburgh, by Burnt-
island Ferry 62 m. (Rte. 40a.) ; to
Edinburgh, by Stirling (Rtes. 15 and
18) ; to Dundee, 22 m. (Rte. 49) ; to
Aberdeen, by Forfar (Rte. 49) ; to
Dunkeld and Inverness (Rte. 48) ;
to Crietf, by Methven (Rte. 45).

Distances. — Bridge of Earn, 4 ra. ;
Dupplin Castle, 6 ; Methven, 74 ;
Kinfauns, 3 ; Inchaffray, 13 ; Dun-
keld, 15^; Aberfeldy, 32 i.



ROUTE 44.

Callandei to Dunkeld, by Loch-
earnhead, Killin (Rail), Ken-
more, Taymouth, and Aber-
feldy.

Callander is described in Rte. 21.

Rly. to Killin — 3 trains daily in
1 hour. Coach daily thence to Dun-
keld.

On quitting Callander, the rly.
leaves on I. the road to the Trossachs
(Rte. 21), and proceeds to thread
the romantic Pass of^ Leny, through
which river and railway and road
have barely room, wedged in between
the roots of Benledi on the I., and a
lower range on the rt. The beauties



Scotland. Route iL — Loch Luhnaig ; BalquJddder. 279



of the Pass are hidden from the
railway passenger, who crosses the
brawling stream before reaching
Loch Lnbnaig. The scene is de-
scribed in " The Legend of Mon-
trose," and in the fiery-cross scene of
"The Lady of the Lake." Leny
House is the seat of J. B. Hamilton,
Esq. At the upper end of the pass
is Loch Luhnaig, ' ' the crooked
lake," from its having two arms of
water at an obtuse angle to one
another.

The rly. is carried along the W.
shore of the lake, which was previ-
ously pathless, the high road passing
on the opposite side.

" Loch Lubnaig is rendered ut-
terly unlike every other Scottish lake
by the complete dissimilarity of its
two boundaries — the one being fiat
and open, and the other a solid wall
of mountains, formed by the steep
and rocky declivity of Benledi.
Though long, it presents little
variety, but its best landscapes are
rendered very striking by their great
simplicit)^, and by the profound and
magnificent breadth of shade which
involves the hill as it towers aloft. "
— Macculloch. At the ai)ex of the
lake, 54 m., is the fine bold front of
Craig-na-Coilig ; and rather more
than half-way up is ArdchuUarie
(Sir W. Stirling-Maxwell, Bart.) ;
for some time the habitation of
Bruce the Abyssinian traveller,
where part of his book w'as written.

At the top of the lake,

8i m., is Strathyre Stat. (2 small
Inns), a place of summer resort from
Glasgow, whither young Norman
carried the fiery signal.

'* Benledi saw the cross of fire
That glanced like lightning down
Strathyre."

On 1. a bridge crosses the river,
offering a short and picturesque
route for those who intend to make
an excursion to Loch Voil and Bal-
quhidder.



10^ m. Kinrfs House Inn, 2 m.
from Strathyre, is a small house,
good and clean. The train will stop
at it, notice being given at the next
stations. It is situate at the open-
ing of the valley of Balquhidder.

[2 m. up that valley is the neat
village, and pretty modern ch. on a
knoll commanding a lovely view of
" The Braes of Balquhidder," the
subject of Tannahill's pretty song,
and of Loch Voil, with the orna-
mental seat and woods of Stronvar
(D. Carnegie, Esq.) In the well-
kept ch.-yd., shaded by yews and
})lanes, in front of the roofless ivy-
clad old Ch., is the grave of«"Rob
Roy M'Gregor." There are three
stones togetiier, the one on the rt.
being, as the inscription says, the
gravestone of his son Colin ; that on
the 1. belongs to his son Hamish, or
James. It is a rough slab of slate,
carved with a rude cross, on one side
of it a sword, on the other a man in
a kilt, bearing a shield, with a dog
at his feet. On Colin's grave are
the arms of the M'Gregors — viz. a
pine-tree torn up by its roots, crossed
by a sword piercing a crown, in
allusion to the claims of royalty
made by the chiefs of the clan.
There is also in this burial-ground a
rude old font, a stone with the sculp-
tured figure of a Culdee priest. On
this spot the clan M 'Gregor gathered
round the head of the king's forester,
which they had cut oft', and swore to
protect the murderers (" Legend of
iMontrose "). Balquhidder stands at
the E. end of Loch Voil, a piece of
water 3^ m. long, and separated very
slightly from the smaller, although
picturesque. Loch Doine. The oppo-
site bank of Loch Voil was the scene
of the escape of Rob Roy, which Sir
Walter Scott has so spiritedly de-
scribed. The foundation of the story
is true. He had been taken prisoner
by the Duke of Montrose, and was
buckled on behind Graham of Gart-
nafuerach : but he slipped off the



280



Route 44. — Lochearnhead ; Killin. Sect. IY.



belt, took to the hillside and not to
the water, and thus got away. From
the bridge at the E. end of Loch
Voil a fine view may be had in both
directions ; embracing on the E., at
a distance of 5 m., the peak of Ben
V^oirlich (3180 ft.), and on the oppo-
site side, though not so easily seen,
that of Ben ]\lore.

From the bridge a road runs 1.
up the charming little valley of Glen
Buckie, for about 3 m., to some
farmhouses, and from it, at 2| m.,
branches a path to Glenfinlas and
Brigg of Turk, a very beautiful walk
of about 6 hours in dry weather, but
one Avhich at other times had better
not bS attempted. The pedestrian
may also follow the road up the Braes
of Balquhidder and under Ben Chroan
to Inverarnan {20 m., 6 hrs. walk),
or to the head of Loch Katrine at
Glengyle (Rte. 21).]

Rail to Killin.

12 m. rt. Edinchip, the charming
seat of Sir ]\Ialcolm M'Gregor, is next
passed, and rt., Edinample, an old
castellated house overlooking Loch
Earn, belonging to Lord Breadal-
bane, situated on the Ample, which
here forms a pretty cascade, not so
remarkable for the quantity of water
as from the singular rocky rent
through which it falls, and the
effects on the rocks of running
water. It should be seen from
below.

Locliearnhead Stat.

13A m. At Lochearnhead is a
thoroughly good Hotel, Avell situated
at the mouth of Glen Ogle, 2 m.
from the Ely. Stat., and 2^ m. from
the head of Loch Earn, which is 7
m. long and 400 ft. in depth. Loch-
earnhead is a good central place
for excursions, a road running on
either side the lake to St. Fillans,
8 m., a charming drive, disclosing
at the head of the Ample glen the
mountain Stuck-a-Chroan, and half-
way down the grand form of Ben
Voirlich rising behind the woods



and mansion of Ardvoirlich (]\Iajor
Stewart) ; Ben Voirlich (3180 ft.)
separates the basin of Loch Earn
from Glenartney {see Rte. 45).

Distances. — St. Fillans, 8 m. ;
Comrie, 13 m. ; Crieff, 20 ; Killin,
8 ; Dunkeld, 48 ; Callander, ISJ ;
Trossachs, 24 ; Aberfeldy, 30 ; Bal-
quhidder, 5 ; Glenvech Falls, 3.

Baihcay to Killin, Tyndrum, and
to Callander.

Leaving Lochearnhead, the rail-
road enters Glen Ogle, a wild rocky
defile, and ascends a steep incline
in deep cuttings over several via-
ducts. View looking down on Loch
Earn, and up to Ben Voirlich. At
16 m. is the highest point of the
glen, with a small loch on 1. The
mountains beyond Glen Dochart
come in sight, with the summits of
Ben More and Stobinhain on 1.

19 m. Kill in Stat., near Lix, 4 m.
from Killin. Omnibus \h\X\iQT . Rail-
way to Tyndrum. Coaches thence to
Oban, Glencoe, and Ballachulish
(Pvte. 34). The first view of Ben
Lawers is obtained here, rising over
a group of lower peaks directly in
front.

22 m. Killin. {Inns : Killin Hotel ;
Bridge of Lochy Hotel, 1 m. on the
Taymouth road.) Kil-Fin signifies
the cell of Fingal, whose grave is
marked by an upright stone in a
field on the 1. The Dochart here
divides into two or three rapidl}"^
flowing branches, forcing their way
over and between masses of bare pro-
jecting rock. It is crossed by 3
bridges, and encloses 2 islands ; the
lower of these, suiTounded by a belt
of fine firs, is the burial-place of the
M'Nabs, a clan which once owned all
the surrounding district, now absorbed
in the Breadalbane domain. The
M 'Nabs emigrated to North America,
but this cemetery still remains their



Perthshire. Route i 4:. — Loch Tay ; Taymoutli.



281



possession. It was Sir Allan M'Nab,
the head of this clan, who aided in
repulsing American marauders from
Canada, and who avenged the inva-
sion of British territory by sending
the rebel steamer Caroline in flames
over the Falls of Niagara.

On leaving Killin the road skirts
the river Lochy on its way to L.
Tay, and crosses it, after passing
Finlarig, a picturesque ruined castle
and cemetery, the cradle and the
grave of the Breadalbane family,
beautifully situated in some fine
wood, and worth visiting. On the
Lochy there are some falls, or rather
rapids, 3 m. up the stream from
Cameron's Inn. The sides of the river
are rocky and overhung Avith trees.

There is a road to Kenuiore on
either side of Loch Tay ; that on the
N. is 2 m. shorter, and is the one
generally used by carriages. Pedes-
trians should take the S. road, as by
that means they get the finest views
of Ben Lawers, and can also visit the
waterfall of Acharn, without return-
ing from Kenmore, from Avhich it is
2 m. W.

Loch Tay is 15 m. long and \\
broad at the widest part. Its chief
feeders are the Dochart and Lochy
at its W. end, Avhile at its E. it sends
forth the full-grown river Tay.

Close to KUlin, on this road, is
Audi-more, Lord Breadalbane.

At 25 m. Edramuckie [a car road
is given off to Glenlyon on 1. , cross-
ing the lower slopes of Ben Lawers
at a height of about 1000 ft, and
running into Glenlyon at Inner-
wick Inn. Distance to Innerwick,
9 m. ; Loch Rannoch, 14].

30 m. Lawers Inn, the best point
from which to ascend Ben Lawers,
which is by no means difficult. " This
wide-based, broad-shouldered moun-
tain rises from the valley of Loch Tay
on one side, and sinks into Glenlyon
on the other. It thus forms a huge
dome-shaped mass between 2 deep |

\Scotland.'\



valle3^s. But instead of owing this
form to an upward curving of the
schists, it actually lies in a basin
of these rocks which dip underneath
the mountain on the banks of Loch
Tay, and rise up again from its
furtlier skirts in Glenlyon. Thus
Ben Lawers is in reality formed of
a trough of schists, while the valley
of Loch Tay runs along the top
of an anticlinal arch. Hence that
wliich in geological structure is a
depression, has, by denudation, be-
come a great mountain, while that
wliicli is an elevation has been turned
into a deep valley. " — Gcikie.

The summit is 3945 ft. above sea-
level. Of all the mountains of Scot-
land, perhaps of Britain, Ben Lawers
is the richest in its botany. No-
where is such abundance of alpine
plants to be found. Here occur the
curious Clierleria, or mossy cyphet,
the fragrant Myosotis alpestris, and
the Gentiana nivalis.

There is a ferry from LaAvers to
Ardeonaig Free Kirk and Inn, 1|
m., on the other side of the loch.
About 2 m. from Taymouth, on that
side, are the Falls of Acharn, in a
pretty glen ^ m. above a small Inn.
There is a good view of Loch Tay
from it. Just opposite Lawers Inn
is a copper-mine.

From Lawers, the road on the N.
side improves. A rude stone circle
is passed on the 1.

At 35 m. the best view of Loch
Tay is obtained. This is the widest
part.

On 1. is Drmnmond Hill, a fine
object, densely clothed Avith a thick
forest of fir, among which are some
noble larch-trees.

37 m. rt. is the kitchen -garden



Online LibraryJohn Murray (Firm)Handbook for travellers in Scotland → online text (page 45 of 73)