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belonging to Taymouth Castle. On
1. is Rock Lodge ; and a peep of the
castle can be obtained upon the
bridge over the Tay as it first
emerges as a river under that name
n2



28:



Route 44. — Taymouth Castle.



Sect. l\



from the lake. Near the shore is an
island, on which are the ruins of a
priory, built by Alexander I. over
the grave of his wife Sibylla, daugh-
ter of Henry I. of England.

38 m. Kenmore {Inn: Breadalbane
Arms, good) is a neat little village
at the foot of Loch Tay, consisting
of a ch., hotel, and about a dozen
cottages, shut out from all view of
lake or park, clustered around the
gate of Taymouth Castle, the noble
seat of the Marquis of Breadalbane.

Admission to the grounds only,
with a guide, from 10 to 12, and 2 to
4 P.M. — fee, Is. each person. The
walk will occupy about 1\ hr. Car-
riages may be sent on to meet parties
at the Fort, on the Dunkeld road.

The Castle (not shown) is a large
grey structure of slate, with round
towers at the angles, surmounted by
a central block, while 2 wings, that
on S.AV. being a remnant of the old
castle restored, project from the main
building. There is a magnificent
hall, grand staircase, library, and a
suite of apartments occupied by Her
Majesty and the Prince Consort on
their first visit to Scotland in 1842.
"The Gothic staircase is of stone,
and very fine."

The Castle was originally founded
by Sir Colin Campbell of Glenorchy,
scion of the house of Argyll, circa
1573. The present edifice, though
large and stately, is but of Brumma-
gem Gothic, and it stands in the
bottom of the valley, but its sur-
roundings are lovely.

There is some magnificent timber
in the park : oak, ash, beech, lime,
and chestnut line the walks that lead
to the house, occasionally diversified
by some light and elegant larch of
great height and age.

On each side the Tay there is a
grand beech-walk.

The best view of the castle, park,
and surrounding country, is to be got
from the Museum and Fort, 1 m. on
the Aberfeldy road. In this Museum



are kept specimens of stuffed ani-
mals, and a battery of guns has
been placed in front for salutes.
The view from this spot on a fine
day is one of the most beautiful in
Scotland.

This is the view alluded to by the
Queen's Journal in these touching
words : —

' ' We got out and looked from this
height down upon the house below,
the mist having cleared away suffi-
ciently to show us everything ; and
then unknown, quite in private, I
gazed— not without deep emotion —
on the scene of our reception twenty-
four years ago by dear Lord Breadal-
bane, in a princely style ; not to be
equalled in grandeur and poetic
ettect.

"Albert and I were then only
twenty-three, young and happy.
How many are gone that were with
us then !" — Leaves from the Journal
of our Life in the Highlands, p. 15.

For a short excursion from Ken-
more the tourist may visit the Her-
mitage and Falls of Acharn, 2 m. to
the W. on the S. side of Loch Tay.
The burn, passing down a dark and
wooded ravine, first takes a clear
leap of 40 ft., and then several
smaller ones.

Distances of Kenmore from —
Luib, 24 m. ; Lochearnhead, 26 ;
Crianlarieh, 34 ; Dunkeld, 24 ; In-
verarnan, 48 ; Aberfeldy, 6 ; Lawers,
8 ; Callander, 42.

Taymouth and the woods of Drum -
mond should not be dismissed with-
out mention of the Capercailzie
{Tetrao urogallus), which was re-
introduced about 1835 into Scotland
from Norway, and is now tolerably
plentiful in the woods.

From Kenmore the road to Aber-
feldy runs up hill, passing a pretty
waterfall, and

40 m. the Gate of the Museum



Pkrthshire. Route 44. — T ay mouth ; Aherfeldy.



283



and Fort, a private entrance to the
grounds of Taymouth, by which
there is no admission for the public.
Within the gates are two large
Standing Stones, supposed to have
been the commencement of an
avenue leading to Craig Monach, a
triple circle ^ m. farther on, to the
rt. of the Aberfeldy road. A good
view is obtained on 1. of Schehal-
lion.

41 J rt. Bolfracks House, the resi-
dence of Lord Breadalbane's factor.

43 m. 1., on the opposite side of
the river, is 3Ienzies (pron. Mengies)
Castle (Sir Robert Menzies). It is
a good tj^ical example of the Scot-
tish mansion, 17th cent., with gables,
angle-turrets, and Avails of immense
thickness. The park contains timber
of remarkable girth and beauty. To
this place General JMackay escaped
from Killiecrankie. Behind Castle
Menzies rises an abrupt hill, clothed
with hanging wood, called Weem
Crag, ascended by shady paths of
easy slope, and from its summit
commanding a view of the valley of
the Tay. Close to it, 1^ m. from
Aberfeldy, is Wecm Inn, very com-
fortable quarters. A bridge over the
Tay leads to

44m. Aberfeldy Stat. {Hotel, Bread- \
albane Arms, good ; Weem Inn, be-
yond the bridge) is a charmingly |
situated village at the junction of the j
little river Moness with the Tay. The
houses are well-built with slated roofs,
and the whole looks clean. The river
is crossed by an old bridge of General
Wade's, and in a meadow on the
opposite side the Black Watch was
embodied Avith the regular army as
the 43d Regiment. It subsequently
became the 42d.

The entrance to the pretty leafy
glen in which are the Falls of
Moness, is opposite the hotel. They
are kept under lock and key. A
guide, or at least the payment of one
(Is. 6d.) is enforced. The first fall



is about 1 m. from the gate ; it is
very pretty, but has had too much
done to it. The second, though
merely spouts of water over shelves of
slate, is picturesque from the tortuous
course of the stream, which comes
wriggling down an inclined plane
about 200 yards long, the vertical
distance being about 200 ft. Its
narrow channel is confined by lofty
walls of mica slate, from whose fis-
sures spring ferns and larch and
mountain-ash ; but few, if any, birch
now, to form a transparent canopy
overhead. The third fall is 50 ft. in
height, and is worth visiting more
for the massive rocks and beautiful
foliage than mass of water.

The description of the Glen and
its " Birks " by Burns is as follows : —

"The braes ascend, like lofty wa's,
The foaming stream, deep roaring, fa's,
O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws,

The Birks of Aberfeldy.
The hoary clifls are crown'd wi' flowers.
White o'er the linn the burnie pours.
And rising, weets, wi' mistv showers,

The Birks of Aberfeldy."

The tourist who is walking to Tay-
mouth need not return to Aberfeldy,
but can strike from the third fall
over the little bridge and up the
wood to the brow of the hill, whence
he can descend to join the Tajonouth
road ; he will thus obtain a good
view of Farragon.

Overlooking the town is Moness
House (Colonel Murray) . The tourist
in search of a comprehensive and
beautiful view cannot do better than
ascend Farrachel Hill.

Conveyances. — Coach daily by
Kenmore, 6 m., to Kill in Stat.,
thence rail to Lochearnhead and
Callander.

Raihvay to Perth and Inverness.

Distances. — Grandtully Castle, 6
m. ; Dunkeld, 18 ; Taymouth Castle,
6 ; Acharn Falls, 8 ; Crieff, 24 ; Pass
of Killiecrankie, 174 ; 4,och Tum-



28i



Route 45. — Perth to St. Fillans.



Sect. IV.



mel, 11 ; Loch Rannocli, 21 ; Glen-
quiech, 13 ; Fortingal, 9.

From Aberfeldy there is a branch
raihcay of 9 m. to Ballinluig Junct.
on the HighLmd Ely. It passes 6 ni.
Grandtully Stat, and Castle (Sir A.
D. Stewart of Murthly), from which
may have been taken the description
of Tullyveolan, belonging to the
Baron of Bradwardine in "Waver-
ley." The rly. continues down the
valley of the'Tay, passing L Bal-
* lechin (Major Stewart) and Pitnacree
(T. Potter, Esq.) It crosses Tay
and Tummel j ust above their j unction
ou lattice bridges.

9 m. Ballinluig Junction, (Ete.
48.) From this it is 9 m. to Dun-
keld, and 4 m. to Pitlochrie and
Killiecrankie.

DuNKELD Stat, {see Ete, 48),



ROUTE 45.

Stirling or Perth., to Lochearn-
head, by Crieff (Rail), Comrie,
and St. Fillans.

A pleasant route ; fine scenery.

See Rte, 4-3 for the road from Stir-
ling to

Crieff Junct. Slat., where this line
separates from that to Perth,

From this and the following sta-
tions fine views are obtained of the
distant chain of the Grampians, Ben
Voirlich, Ben Ledi, and Ben Lomond,

2| m. TulUbardine Stat., adjoin-
ing which is the site of TulUbardine
Castle, once a seat of the earls of that
name, before receiving the title of
Dukes of Athole. There is a small
Gothic chapel, 12th centy. On the
rt. of the line Strathallan Castle,
the seat of Viscount Strathallan.

5 m. Muthill Stat., the village
Deing 1 m. 1. It has a Gothic church,
erected in 1828, and the ruins of an



old ch. In the neighbourhood is
Ciddees Castle (R. T. N, Speirs, Esq.),
containing a small collection of
Spanish pictures. 1^ m. 1, is Drum-
viond Castle (see opposite page) ; the
rly. now crosses the Earn, near a
Roman camp (from which an ancient
Roman road stretches in a direct
line to Perth), and passing 7 m.
Highlandman Stat., reaches

9 m. Crieff Junct. Stat. {Inns :
Drummond Arms, facing 4 grand
lime trees ; Carriages for hire ;
Stewart's Hotel ; the Roj-al Hotel.)
Crieff (pop. 4000), is a town of no great
size or importance, j^et popular as a
summer resort, from the healthi-
ness of its situation on the side of a
hill, a little distance from the Earn,
here joined by the Turrit, the purity
of its air, and the fine drives, walks,
and general scenery of its neighbour-
hood. Strathearn, which it over-
looks, is celebrated no less for its
wooded slopes than its fertile plains.

Near the Town Hall is a venerable
Cross, carved with Runic knots, but
without inscriptions — probably of
the 12th centy. Here also stands
the old stone Market Cross and the
ivonjoiigs or pillory (see Index),

There is a large HydrojMthic Esta-
blishment on the outskirts, f m, from
Crieff, on the Hill of Knock, a very
fine point of view.

In former times the Stewards of
Strathearn held here their Courts of
Justice on a circular mound, still
existing on the Farm of Broich, ^ m.
E, of CriefF. By their sentence many
Highland caterans and thieves suf-
fered at " the kind gallows of CriefF,"
on the Gallows Hill. In return for
this, the Highlanders bore a grudge
against the town, and burnt it in
1715, and were nearly doing the
same in 1745.

There is an Ejnscojml chapel here.

The pleasant rides and drives
around CriefF are nearly endless.

For shorter walks the tourist
should, without fail, climb the Knock



Scotland. Pde. 45. — Crieff to Lochearn : Lhimimond Castle. 285



or Hill of Crieff, scarce a mile off,
for its exquisite view.

The hill of Tomachasile, 3 m. W.,
on the N. bank of the Earn to-
wards Comrie, is approached by a
charming river-path called Lady
Mary's Green Walk. The summit
of the hill is ornamented Avith a
gi-anite monument to Sir David
Baird. Between Crieff and the
Knock of Crieff is Fc7'ntorucr (Lord
Abercromby), in which Sir David
Baird resided for many years. In
the interior is the sword of Tippoo
Saib, and Wilkie's picture of the
finding of his body.

Railways — to Stirling, Edinburgh,
and Glasgow, by Criefi" Junction
(Rte. 43) ; to Methven, Perth, and
Dundee {see p. 287).

Perhaps the most interesting object
in the neighbourhood is Druvimond
Castle and its beautiful Gardens,
which are liberally shown to
strangers. It has been, since the
loth cent., the seat of that ancient
and noble family the Drummonds,
Earls of Perth. It now belongs to the
Trs. of Lady Willoughby d'Eresby.
A drive of 3 m. from Crieff, crossiug
the bridge 1 m. distant, tui'ning 1.
along the road to Muthill, leads to
the entrance-gate, where a noble
avenue of beech, surmounting a
rocky ridge l.^ m. long, constantly
ascending, conducts to the Castle,
which, excepting an old square
tower, is chiefly modern, Cromwell
having battered the original. It com-
mands fine views over Strathearn
and the Grampian chain on the N.,
and contains a small armoury and
interesting historic and family por-
traits — James V. and VI., Charles I.
and II., Q. Mary, etc.

Behind, it looks down upon the
most beautiful old-fashioned Garden,
laid out in a series of natural ter-
races formed on the rock itself, as it
descends step-wise. The flower-beds
are most tastefully arranged, so as
to resemble a rich Persian c.xrpet,



the whole set off and relieved by
evergreens, box, and yew hedges, cut
and carved in quaint fashion, and by
fine specimens of cypress, cedars, and
rare conifers. Statuary, and foun-
tains, with stately staircases, give
great effect to the whole. The mul-
tiplex ^2«i-6?mAvas designed by John,
2d E. of Perth, who laid out the
gardens 1662.

At the back of the Castle the hill
of Torleum rises to 1400.

More distant Excursions from
Crieff S. to the Roman camp at
Ardoch, by Muthill ; (Rte. 43) to
Monzie, and the Small Glen (Rte.
4oa) ; to Glenalmond.



Crieff to Comrie 64m.; St. Fil-
lans, 12 m., and Lochearnliead Stat,
20^ m., one of the most charming
drives in Scotland, ought on no
account to be neglected.

Coaches daily, in summer.

The valley of the Earn is well
cultivated and richly wooded, and
enlivened by the constant variety
afforded by th.e sparkling and
abounding river — the grey rocks
alternating with the rich foliage,
the grand mountains, whose tops
impend over the road at everj'-
turn, and the succession of country
seats, all in lovely situations.

Soon after leaving Crieff the river
Turrit is crossed, issuing out of
the Highland Glen Turrit, at whose
mouth stands the house of Ochtertyre
(Sir Patrick Keith Murray, Bart.),
on a lovely bank, overlooking the
wide-spreading Loch of Monzievaird,
and backed by dark woods. A lady
of this family was immortalised by
Burns as "The Flower of Strath-
more." The jjark is liberally open
to strangers. At the head of Glen
Turrit rises the grand mountain
Bon Chonzie (2922 ft.) Burns WTote



286



Route 45. — Comrie ; St. Fillans.



Sect. IV.



some verses "On scaring some
Waterfowl in Loch Tnrrit."

After skirting the park for more
than a mile, we pass, on the height,
the monument to Sir David Baird.
At Monzievaird was born Gen. Sir
George Murray, the faithful lieut. of
"the Duke " in Spain and at Water-
loo. ; 1. Strovjan (T. J. Graham Stir-
ling, Esq.) ; and nearer Comrie,
Lawers, the fine seat of D, R. Wil-
liamson, Esq.

6. m. Cowrie (second-rate Inn) : a
long street, with 2 specially ugly
churches, but prettily situated at the
junction of Glenartney and Glen Led-
nock w'ith the Earn Valley. The best
idea of the surrounding country will
be obtained by ascending Dunmore—
a commanding hill, marked by the
obelisk set up as a Monument to
Henry Dundas of Dunira, 1st Ld.
Melville. The way to it lies through
the picturesque wooded Glen Led-
nock, by a path commencing behind
the town, running through the
grounds of Dunira (Sir D. Dun-
das). About \ of an hour's walk
brings the tourist to the upper Falls
of the Lednock, which, though not of
great volume, will repay the visit of
the artist and lover of nature by the
picturesque gi-andeur of the remark-
able chasm in the rock called the
Devil's Cauldron, through which they
worm their way, working out deep
cauldrons in the hard rock by the
friction of the stones W'hich the cur-
rent forces to revolve in the bottom.

A winding path is carried in zig-
zags from this iip to the Melville
Monument, an obelisk of boulder
granite, whence the view is ex-
tremely interesting and extensive.
A circuitous carriage-road, 1^ m.,
leads to within a short distance of
the Falls.

For many years Comrie has been
subject, from time to time, to slight
shocks of earthquake, so slight,
as only to cause glasses or A-essels
to rattle on the shelves in the



houses, accompanied by a slight
rumbling sound. In October 1889,
at least 70 shocks were felt, in some
instances accompanied by a loud
report and sulphureous smells.

On the opposite (rt. ) bank of the
Earn, lie Dalchonzie and Aberu-
chill Castle (G. C. Dewhurst, Esq.,
of Manchester), behind which is a
pretty wild glen. But the prettiest
spot in all the valley is Dunira (Sir
David Dundas, Bart.), a handsome
modern mansion by Br3'ce, architect,
which has succeeded the cottage to
which Henry Dundas, 1st Lord ^lel-
ville, the friend of William Pitt,
retired, at a spot where the valley
is most smiling and the mountains
the grandest. The road for miles
passes through an avenue.

Ascending the 1. bank of the ample
river, Ave pass 1. the green conical
hill of Dunjillan, 600 ft. high, on
the top of w^hich St. Fillan, the
patron saint of Robert Bruce, used
to say his prayers so assiduously
that he has left the marks of his
knees in the rock !

St. Fillans (Inn : *Drummond
Arms : good accommodation, well
placed and very comfortable : ob-
liging landlord. Cars, post-horses,
boats, and fishing on the lake).

This pretty village stretches along
the E. shore of the lake and the
outlet of the river Earn, surrounded
by hills and mountains (Dundearn),
amidst scenery far finer than that
at Lochearnhead. On the smooth
green meadow opposite the inn,
reached by a wooden bridge, the
Highland games are held.

Loch Earn is a lovely highland
lake, stretching 7 m. from St. Fillans
E. to Lochearnhead W. ; near the E.
end is a small islet, covered with trees,
and made up of stone heaps, said to
be the remains of a stronghold of the
Neishes, who, having committed
depredations on the M'Nabs, were
pursued to this retreat and extermi-
nated bv that irate tribe.



Perthshire. Route io.- — Lochearn : Crieff to Perth .



287



There is a good road on either side
of the lake, and it is a very pleasant
drive from St. F. to go by the one
and return by the other. The road
along the X. shore is the most level,
but the other commands by far the
best view. At the distance of 4 m.,
looking across the lake S., the House
of Ardvoirlich is barely seen (Major
R. Stewart), where the jMacgregors
committed the atrocity of displaying
to his widow in a dish the head of the
Ste\^'art whom they had murdered,
with a crust between the teeth.
{See Scott's "Legend of Montrose.")
Near Ardvoirlich, by the side of the
road, stands a stone, informing the
passers-by that the bodies of six
Macdonalds of Glencoe lie buried
there, who were killed in an attempt
to " harry" Ardvoirlich.

At the head of the valley, opening
behind the house, rises the peak of
Be7i Voirlich, 3180 ft. high. A
little to the right, Ardvoirlich Cottage
(Miss Stewart), a picturesque little
habitation, which, along with the
mansion-house, has been in the pos-
session of the family for several
centuries.

Lochearnhead {Inn : Dayton's H.
good ; is about 4 mile distant from
the lake and 1^ m. from the station
of the rly. from Callander to Killin
(see Rte. 44.)



Raihuay — Crieff to Perth, 17$ m.
(4 trains), in 50 min.

Ahercairney Stat., not far from the
noble seat of Ch. Home Drummond
Moray, Esq., a large modern Gothic
mansion, with beautiful grounds.
At Foul is "Wester is a carved Stone
Cross and a jougs or iron pillory
attached.

6 m. from Crieff are the fragment-
ary ruins of Inchaffray, founded in
1200, and largely endowed by David
I. and Alexander III. Maurice, the
abbot of the time, attended Bruce to
Bannockburn, with the arm of St.



Fillan in a silver casket, a relic to
which great importance was attached
in those days. The Abbey was
called "Insula Missarum," or the
Island of the Masses ; and the
ground is now the property of Lord
Kinnoul.

IS'ear Balgowan Stat, are Gorthy
(G. E. JNIercer, Esq.), and Balgowan
(W. Thomson, Esq.), the birthplace
of General Graham (Lord Lynedoch),
who did not enter the military pro-
fession till he was 45 years old, im-
pelled thereto by grief for the loss of
his Avife. After going through the
Peninsular war he died in 1843, at
the age of 93, and was buried in
Methven ch. -yard by the side of his
wife, who died 50 years before him.

Methven Junct. Stat. [A short
branch leads to

11 m. Methven [Inn, Star), a
quaint little village, near which
Robert Bruce was defeated in 1306
by the English, under Aymer de
Valence, Earl of Pembroke, and
Viceroy of Scotland. Lynedoch House
was the residence of Lord Lynedoch,
and is adorned with some choice
trees of his planting. Dronach
Haugh is the burial-place of " Bessie
Bell and Mary Gray." 3 m. to the
N.W. is Trinity College, situated in
the prettiest part of Glenalmond,
founded in 1841 as a public school
for members of the Episcopal Church.
As a school it is very successful, and
it is a fine pile of building, which
cost £42,000 ; the elegant Gothic
CMpel was erected subsequently by
the Avarden, Rev. Ch. Wordsworth,
now Bishop of the diocese, at a cost
of £5500.

Glenalmond, in which the col-
lege is situated is of a very pic-
turesque character, and was the sub-
ject of lines by Wordsworth : —

" A convent, even a hermit's cell,
Would break the silence of this dell ;
It is not quiet, it is not ease.
But something deeper far than these. "



288



Route i^k.— Crieff to Aherfeldy. Sect. IV.



The Cairnies (Mrs, Malcolm Pat-
ton) is a pretty cottage surrounded by
a Pinetum surpassed by few in Scot-
land. Methven Castle (Wni. Smythe,
Esq.) is a fine old Scotch seat and
estate, abounding in old timber.]

15. Ahnondbank Stat, to the
rt. of which is Tippermuir, pro-
perly Lamerkin Muir, where the
Marquis of Montrose, with 1100
half-clad Irish and 1300 half-armed
Highlanders, defeated a tumultuous
mob of about 6000 Covenanters,
citizens of Perth and others, hastily
gathered together to oppose him
under Lord Elcho ; the battle was
fought on the 1st Sept. 1644, and
the town of Perth was the prize of
the victory.

20 1 m. 1. Huntingtowcr Castle.
The key is left at a shop in the village,
and 2s. 6d. is charged for the use of
it ! There is nothing interesting in
the interior, which is used as a
granary. Its name was changed
after the Gowrie Conspiracy from
that of Euthven, the latter having
acquired a disagreeable notoriety
from the Raid of Euthven, perpe-
trated there in 1582.

King James VI., returning from
Blair Castle to Edinburgh, was invited
by the Earl of Gowrie to his castle of
Euthven. He accej^ted the invitation,
but on arriving, found himself sur-
rounded by a number of the nobility
of the kingdom politically opposed to
him. The next morning a list of de-
mands was presented to him, to which
he was called upon to accede, the
chief being that he should dismiss
his favourites, the Earls of Arran and
Athol. James endeavoured to leave
the room, when one of the conspira-
tors put his back against the door,
at which outrage the king burst into
tears, and was told roughly, " Better
bairns greet than bearded men."
In the end he was compelled to
agree to all their demands. The
castle consists of 2 square tower.

23 m. Perth Junct. Stat. (Rte. 43.)



ROUTE 45a.

Crieff to Aberfeldy or Dunkeld,
by Amulree and the Small
Glen. (23 m.)

For Crieff, see Ete. 45. A carri-
age may be hired at the Drummond
Arms ; no coach. The road runs
N.E. to Gihnerton, having on 1. the
Knock of Crietf, and

3 m. Monzie (pron. Monee) village
and Castle (G. Johnstone, Esq., of
Lathrisk), a modern castellated
mansion, under the Knock of Crieff,
surrounded by stately trees, amongst
which are some of the oldest Larclies
in Scotland, one of them, at 3 ft.
from the ground, is 20 ft. in girth.

The road surmounts a steep hill,
and descends into the vale of the
Almond, where the pretty grounds
of Logiealmond divide it ; the rt.
branch goes down the valley to Glen-
almond and the College (Ete. 45).
The 1, branch ascends the sti-eam
and enters the Small Glen, an in-
teresting Highland pass.

The road is carried for about 2 m.
through a narrow rocky defile, one
of the gates into the Highlands. In
its jaws, near its upper end, is the re-
puted tomb of Ossian, a rude flat
stone, removed from off" the bones it
was meant to cover, when the road
was made ] 746 : —

" In this still place, remote from men,
Sleeps Ossian in the narrow glen ;
In this still place, where murmurs on,
But one meek streamlet— only one."

The Almond is crossed at the
bridge, and over a bleak moor, we
come to Corriemuckloch, and soon
after reach

12. m. Amulree. Good angling
quarters Inn : Post-horses. On the
Braan, which issues out of Loch
FrcucMe, a little to the W. of the
place.



Perthshire. Pamte 46. — Kenmore to Inveromn ; Glenlyon. 289



From this a road follows the course



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