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of the Braan to

10 m. DunJceld (Rte. 48), and
another leads in

11 m. to Aherfekly^i^t. (Rte. 44.)


Taymouth (Kenmore) to Inver-
oran, by Fortingal and Glen-

It is 30 m. from Kenmore to the
Fort- William road. Carriages can
go as fiir as Innerwick througli all
the most beautiful portions of Glen-
lyon. The latter part of the Ete.
is only for pedestrians. The Lyon is
crossed at the ferry, close by which
is the shell of Comhra Castle, a small
square keep of 3 storeys, completely
enveloped in ivy.

[Ig m. from Cushieville Inn, over-
looking the road from Strath Tay
to Strath Tummel, is the ruined
castle of Garth, once the abode of
Cuilean Cursta, or the fierce Wolf,
brother of the Earl of Buchan. Be-
tween the inn and the castle are some
waterfalls on the Keltnie Burn.]

6 m. Garth House (Rev. H. Blis-
sett), was the birthplace of Gen.
David Stewart, author of " A history
of the Highlanders. "

7. m. Fortingal village. Here is
an Inn. By crossing Drummond
Hill (the top of which may be
reached even in a carriage by a
zigzag road) 3 m. is saved in this
distance. The great curiosity here
is the yew-tree in the ch.-yd. (keys
to be had at the Manse), said to be
2500 years old. It is 12 ft. in
height, and the largest of the stems
measures 20 ft. in girth.

4| m. from a small bridge may be
seen Glenlyon House- (F. Garden

Campbell, Esq.),

the old residence | Castle, an old

of the Campbells of Glenlyon, one
of whose membej'S took part in
the Glencoe ma-ssacre. On 1. is a
Roman encampment occupying about
80 acres. Tlie Prtetorium can be
easily traced, and there is also within
the camp a tumulus 60 ft. long.

The way to Innerwick turns to
the rt., and immediately afterwards
enters the pass, continuing for sonu
time by the side of the river, whose
channel is very deep and rocky.
The road is uneven, beautifully
shaded with trees, and winds so that
the aspect of the view is continually

Glenlyon is a very narrow pictur-
esque valley running up from the Tay
3 m. below Kenmore, E. and W., at the
back (N. side) of Ben Lawers. Ex-
cept for pedestrians it is a cid de sac ;
the good carriage road ceases near
Innerwick, about 20 m. There are
cart-roads leading from this N". to
Loch Rannoch, and S. to Loch Tay,
but only guides will bring the travel-
ler from L. Lochy through the glens
at the vale head to Tyndrum or In-
veroran, by Dalmally, or Glencoe.

The lower part of the valley is
called Fortingal, and a drive of 10
or 15 m. up it will disclose all the
fine scenerj'-. It is shut in by high
hills, richly wooded, with protruding
crags between and above. In parts
the scenery of the defile is like the

[To reach Glenlyon from Ken-
more one must either cross the W.
shoulder of Drummond Hill, turning
out of the Killin road near Stronfearn
(2 m.), or must make a detour of 3
or 4 m. E., to Comrie Castle, the
ruined shell of a square tower, to
Fortingal village.]

8 m. passing rt. Cliesthill House
(W. J. B. Stewart Meuzies, Esq.), the
pass opens into the glen.

9 m. on a small hillock on the rt.,
are the scanty ruins of Carnhane

stronghold of the


Pites. 46, Glenhjon — 47, Keniiwre to Glencoe. Sect. IY.

M 'Naughts, evidently an insignifi-
cant place.

12 ni. the road now passes a Free
Kirk and Manse, from whence are fine
views of the bold rounded top of
Ben Gherrig, while on the opposite
side, towering amongst some lower
elevations, is tlie peak of Ben Lawers.
The once comfortable little inn at
14 m. Innencick has been converted
into a shooting-box, and its place sup-
plied by a small public -house. Here
is a road on the N. to Loch Rannoch.
8 m., upon the opposite side of the
river is the burial-ground, in which
is still preserved a rude bell of olden
days. [15 m. From Bridge of Bcdgic
a road runs S. to Killiu (Ete. 44),
and across the hills 12m.] In front
is the gateway of Meggcrnie Castle
(E. S. Alenzies, Esq.), the house being
2 m . beyond. After passing the gate
a picturesque waterfall will be ob-
served on the 1. The drive winds
along the side of the river for more
than a mile, and then enters a fine
avenue 4 m. long, of beech and lime
tree.s, which meet overhead. The
castle is a square, comfortably-built
house, originally erected in 1579,
restored and repaired in 1673, and
much enlarged and improved by its
present owner.

At 16 m. the road ceases to be
passable for carriages, and the scenery
changes considerably ; the glen be-
coming bare and treeless, and ap-
parently producing nothing but turf.

At 22 m. is a good specimen of a
^^ Pictuh Tower." It is much dilapi-
dated, though enough is left to give
an idea of what it was like when per-
fect. The walls are still 2 ft. high, and
7. ft. thick, of large stones, with the
interstices filled up with small ones.

27 m. at Locli Lyon the road alto-
gether ceases. The pedestrian should
now pass round to the W. side of
the Loch, and tuiii up a watercourse
on rt. This ends in a peat track,
which leads down to the side of a

burn, along which the path runs for
the remainder of the way. The sur-
face of the ground is thickh' studded
Avith roots of great size, proving that
at some distant period the whole of
this country was part of a gigantic
forest. This is borne out by the
ancient name of the Forest of Mam-

32 m. the pedestrian reaches the
high road to Fort-William, and
striking northward reaches

47 m. Inveroran Inn. (Rte. 34.)


Kenmore to Glencoe, by Kin-
loch-Eannoch. For Pedestrians.
45 m.

This route should not be attempted
without a map and compass, as it i.s
difficult and boggy, except in dry

2 m. Com bra Castle, and ferry
across the Lyon (Ete. 46).

4 m. CushieviUe Inn, from which
a visit may be paid to the waterfall
on the Keltnie Burn. The road
from hence passes Garth Castle ruins
(Kte. 46), and through an unculti-
vated and wild district, the only
great feature in the view being the
celebrated mountain SchchaUion
(3564 ft.), round which the road
winds. The name is said to be
from " Sith-gailionn," — the Moun-
tain of Storms, though other deriva-
tions have been given. The traveller
is scarcely able to get a good xiqw of
the top, being so close under it ; but
the mountain stands well, having
nothing round or near to withdraw
the attention from its single conical
peak, which is so characteristic of its
quartz-rock formation. Dr. Ma.ske-
lyne, the astronomer royal, made his
experiments for ascertaining the gra-
vity of the earth on Schehallion in
1777. On rt. rises the less cele-


Route 47. — Klnloch-Rannoch.


brated Farragon, about 2800 ft. high.
Schehallion can be easily ascended
from Kinloch, but the view from the
summit is comparatively confined.

[At 8 m. a road on rt. goes to
Tummel Bridge, 4 m., and on north-
ward to Dalnacardoch, where it
joins the Highland Rly. and north
road to Inverness (Rte. 48).]

The way to 'Kinloch continues to
ascend until a considerable elevation
has been reached ; then passing
through a long tract of bog and
moor which lies at the foot of
Schehallion, it descends through a
narrow pass bordered with wood, and
enters the vale of Rannoch.

17 m. Kinloch- Rannoch {Inn
Macdonald Arms, good ; 3 or 4 boats
for fishing ; the loch contains Salmo
ferox). This neat little village,
which has improved very much of
late years, is situated, as its name
implies, at the head or E. end of
Loch Hannoch, a beautiful piece of
water 11 m. in length and 1 in
breadth, and abounding with large
trout. There is a road on either
side, but the northern is the best one
to take, being somewhat shorter, and
aff"ording the best views. Along
the N. side the ground is partly
cultivated, and partly covered with
scattered plantations of fir and
birch, through which the glistening
waters of the lake appear to great
advantage. On the S. side there is
more wood and less cultivation. As
we get to the "VV. end of the lake
may be discovered the highest peak
of Ben Lawers, about 20 m. distant.
Coach in summer from Kinloch-Ran-
noch to Struan Station.

Passing Killahonan and Ardla-
rich the road crosses the Ericht,
which flows into Loch Rannoch
from Loch Ericht, a desolate and
dreary sheet of water some 16 m.
long, lying at the foot of Ben Alder.

At the W. end of Loch Rannoch
is the Lodge, formerly the Tighna-

line Inn, but now turned into a

28 m. Rannoch Lodge (Hon. Lady

The road, which has hitherto been
very good, now deteriorates. By-
and-bye it becomes a farm road, a
peat track, a well-defined path, and
ultimately degenerates into a line
of precarious footing across a marsh.
At 36 m. the farm road is left for a
path (1.) leading to a rude bridge
across the Gauer. \ m. beyond this
is a shepherd's hut, from which a
track will be found to the head of
Loch LydoclL The walker must now
gird up his loins to cross the Moor of
Rannoch, the largest and dreariest
moor in Scotland, which will occupy,
generally speaking, about 4 hours,
although the distance is not above
8 m. Keep well up the ridge on the
rt., and if the ground is swampy
climb the hill and proceed along the
top, the peaks of which will be found
marked with large stones, probably
intended as landmarks. Steer due
W., and then Loch Lydoch on the 1.
will gradually become more and
more distant, and will be succeeded
by a number of small pieces of water,
varying in number and size according
to the season.

"The long, lonely Moor of Ran-
noch lies in great measure on gi-anite,
while the range of mountains that
bounds its south-eastern margin con-
sists, not of granite, but of quartz
rock." — Gcikie.

General Roy, in his "Military
Antiquities," mentions the Moor
of Rannoch and Edrachillis as the
two most remarkable districts in
his knowledge.

After a time the mountains at the
entrance of Glencoe will become
visible, and then the road and the
inn. Still keep up the hill until
a small burn is reached running
straight doAvn to the road. There is a
path along this which leads direct to

48 m. King's House, near the
entrance to Glencoe (Rte. 34).


Route 48. — Perth to Forres and Inverness. Sect. IY


Perth to Forres and Inverness,
by Dunkeld, Killiecrankie,
Blair- Athole, Kingussie, and

Higliland Rly. ; a single line ; 4
trains daily to Forres, 119 m. ; and
to Inverness, 144 m.

Perth is described in Ete. 43. {See

rt. 2 m. on the opposite side of
the Tay, is Scone Palace (Lord Mans-
freld), described in Ete. 43.

Crossing the Almond Eiver, the
line reaches

4 m. Luncarty Stat. In a field
upon the 1. Kenneth III., about 985,
defeated the Danes, who had in-
vaded the kingdom. It was in this
battle that the Scots were rallied by
a peasant of the name of Hay ; and
the victory being gained, Hay be-
came a great man and founded the
Tweeddale family. This, like many
other picturesque traditions^ how-
ever, has been said to be apocryphal,
though several families bearing the
name of Hay still have a peasant
with a yoke over his arm as one of
the supporters of their coat of arms.

We now cross the rivers Shochie
and Ordie immediately above where
they unite and run into the Tay.
An old rhyme runs —

Says the Shochie to the Ordie, " Where

shall we meet ? "
"At the Cross o' St. Johnston, when a'

are fast asleep. "

On the opposite side of the Tay are
the Stormontfield breeding-ponds,
where the process of breeding salmon
can be seen.

7 m. Stanley Junct. Stat., where
the great north-east S3'stem of rail-
waj^s is given off to Forfar, Aber-
deen, and Inverness (Ete. 50).

The village of Stanley takes its
name from the late Lady Emily

Stanley, mother of the 1st Marquis
of xithole. The old house of Stob-
hall is in this neighbourhood, and is
of great interest to the antiquarian.
The hiding-place of the D. of Perth
in the chapel may still be seen.
5 m. from the stat., onrt, is Camjme
Linn, the only cataract of the Tay
the scene of Eacliin Maclan's deatl
in "The Fair Maid of Perth." Oi;
rt., on a clear day, the blue hills o'
Forfarshire may be seen. Near thi^
rises Dunsinane, {seep. 304).

10| m., on rt. of Murtlily Stat., is
the large County Lunatic Asylum.
On the other side of the river may
be seen the village of Caputh, with
a ferry-boat which works by a chain.
Farther on is New Murthly Castle,
seat of Sir A. Douglas Stewart, a verj"-
large and formal-looking square Eliza-
bethan chateau, begun on a grand
scale from designs of Gillespie
Graham, architect, but left a mere
shell, never finished, amid grand
woods. A few yards to the N. are
the old castle, built at various
periods, and a little chapel, used
occasionally for Presbyterian wor-
ship. The gardens, in the old Dutch
style, are quaint. The grounds are
very beautiful, and adorned with
rare pine-trees of new kinds, hardly
to be matched elsewhere for size, but
are closed by the present owner to
the public.

Near Dalpowie House is an old oak,
called the hangman's tree, where
Highland marauders, etc., w^ere sus-
pended. This custom was common
when what were known as the
"Heritable Jurisdictions" prevailed
in Scotland, when the superior of the
land tried and condemned criminals
without the intervention of the
King's Courts.

The scenery is only partially re-
vealed through the screen of thick
fir-trees rapidly passed by the train.
Emerging from a tunnel, the tra-
veller is all at once introduced to
a view most exquisite, which com-


Route 48. — Dunkeld.


bines the charms of Highland moun-
tain and river with the rich foliage
of Lowland plantation. The rly.
skirts 1. the base of

Birnam Hill (1325 ft.), which is
said by Macculloch never to have
recovered the march of its wood
to Dansinane, but a young and
vigorous plantation is now creeping
up the sides, which is the more
necessary, as the hill has been much
broken into for its slate. At its foot
lies the Birnam Hotel, and

15 m. DitnTceld Stat., on the S.
bank of the Tay, about 1 m. from
the town. Close to the station, the
Birnam Hotel, a handsome building,
with a baronial hall for tables d'hote.
It is a well-kept and comfortable Inn.

Omnibuses run from the trains
into the town {Hotels : Athole Arms,
excellently managed ; Royal H.
(Fisher's), close to the dncal gate,
crossing the river.

Fishing (salmon and trout), to
be obtained by visitors staying at
Athole Arms (Grant's) or Birnam
Hotel (Pople's) ; trout-fishing in the

Dunkeld, the gate of the High-
lands, is a village of about 1000 in-
habitants, in a charming situation
on the 1. bank of the Tay, here
hemmed in between grand wooded
mountains, and crossed by a hand-
some bridge of 7 arches, erected by
Telford in 1809, at a cost of £42,000.
Pontage, |d. for foot-passenger.

At the farther end of the main
street, leading to Blair-Athole, ^ m.
from the Bridge, is the Lodge Gate
to the Duke of Athole's Grounds.
A^isitors are admitted under the con-
duct of a guide, and the charge is
2s. 6d. for one or two, and Is. each
for three or more. Some distance from
the entrance are the foundations of a
Palace, designed by Hopper, begun by
John, 4th Duke of Athole, but aban-
doned at the Duke's death, having cost

£30, 000. The actual ducal residence
is a modest cottage on a smooth lawn
near the river bank. Here, in 1842,
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert
were entertained and welcomed by
the late Duke at the head of 900
Highlanders, 500 of them being
Athole men of his own clan. A
palatial looking building on a hillock
at the back of the town is the Duke
of Athole's dog-kennels.

Near the house stands the vener-
able and picturesque Cathedral, the
choir of which is fitted up as the
parish ch., the nave being a ruin,
and open to the sky.

It is a grand Gothic edifice, appa-
rently of the 15th centy., though the
massive round piers of the nave
bespeak an earlier date, and we know
that it stands on the site of one of
the oldest churches in Scotland,
founded by Culdee missionaries, who
in the 9th centy. were driven from
lona by the roving Northern pirates,
and settled here, bringing with them
the relics of St. Columba. The
main arches of the nave, which are
pointed, are surmounted by a very
clumsy triforium of round arches.

In the chapter-house is a monu-
ment to John, 4th Duke of Athole,
1833, with all the armorial bearings.

The W. end of the ch. is pierced
with a large window, which is placed
awry, its canopied moulding being
twisted away from the line of the
gable. It is flanked by a noble mas-
sive tower (1469-1501). In the S.
aisle of the nave is the monument of
Bp. Piobert of Cardney, who laid the
foundation of the nave ; in the N.
aisle is the statue of Bp. Sinclair.
In the choir, now used as the
parish ch., is a recumbent e&gy
of Alexander Stewart, Earl of
Buchan, natural son of Robert II.,
better known as ' ' The Wolf of
Badenoch," whose greatest ex-
ploit was the destruction of Elgin
Cathedral. After a career of un-
paralleled cruelty and vice he died,
and was buried here in 1394. Here

294 Route ^S.—Dirnksld; D. of A tholes Grounds. Sect. IV.

also is a monument to the 42d
Highlanders (Black Watch) who fell
in the Crimean war, — a bas-relief by
Steell, erected by the surviving offi-
cers in 1872.

Close to the ch. tower rise two of
the oldest and finest Larches in
Britain, brought from the Tyrol in
1738, 15 ft. 8 in. in girth at 3 ft.
from the ground, 99 ft. high, but
maimed in the leading shoot.

In 1689 a regiment of 1200 Low-
landers took up a i^osition in and
around the cathedral, and was at-
tacked by the Highland army, fresh
from its victory of Killiecrankie.
After a most obstinate fight the
Highlanders were beaten off" with
great loss, and soon afterwards dis-
persed. The regiment has since been
known as the 26th Cameronians.
The grave of Col. Cleland, who com-
manded them and was killed, is to
be seen in the churchyard.

Nothing can be lovelier than the
broad Tcrrace-waltcs of velvet turf
stretching up the 1. bank of the Tay,
commanding the brisk river, the
bridge, aud the noble mountains, and
shaded by trees of magnificent growth
(silver fir 150 ft. high and 16 ft. in
circumference, Scotch firs and vigor-
ous deodars.

2 m. from Dunkeld, by the road
vqy Strathbraan, passing the village
of Inver, the visitor may reach the
romantic river Braan, which, in
a rocky glen, forms a pictur-
esque fall over the slate strata
turned on edge. A pretty summer-
house, called Ossians Hall, which
stood here, was blown up and de-
stroyed by some malicious person,
much to the loss of visitors, 1869.
The miscreant Avas never found out,
and the summer-house has never
been rebuilt.

The village of Inver is about one
mile from Dunkeld, and on the way
the Braan is crossed by one of Gen.
AVade's bridges. Inver Avas the resi-
dence of Neil Gow.

Higher up the stream is the

Rumbling Bridge, a favourite re-
sort of tourists, below which the
Braan, falling into a deep chasm,
growls among the rocks, and if there
has been much rain this is of itself
worth a visit. The ruins of Goxvrie
Castle, a seat of the once powerful
Earls of GoAvrie, whose lands were
confiscated at the time of the Gowrie
Conspiracy, are at Trochrie, about 2
miles farther up Strathbraan, on the
Amulree road. The visitor can re-
turn by the Amulree road, passing
rt. Dundonachie (Burn Murdoch,

The Episcopal Ch. of St. Mary is
close to the Birnani Hotel.

Walks. — a. Birnam H. is ascended
by a very pleasant walk up the side
of the Inchcwan Burn, which passes
the hotel, passing under the railway
bridge. No carriages allowed, how-
ever. The view from the top is

h. The Terrace- Walk, along rt.
bank of Tay behind the hotel. Here
may be seen the finest Sycamore in
Britain, and an oak nearly its equal.
There is a path by the river to
Murthly, but its gates are closed to

c. The walks up and around
Craig-y-barns command fine views of
the Tay above Dunkeld.

Highland Gatherings are held
annually at Dunkeld about end -of
July, and Birnam end of August.

Among the modern villas and
countiy -houses around Dunkeld may
be named Kinloch (Hon. Arthur
Kiunaird, M.P.) ; St. Mary's Tower
(Lord John Manners), charming
view ; Erigmore (Sir John Garden),

Conveyances from Dunkeld. — El y.
to Perth and Inverness. Coach to
Braemar by Blairgowrie.

Excursions. — a. Loch of the Lowes
3 m., and Blairgowrie, 12 m. (Ete.
52 B) ; h. Murthly Castle and Camp-
sie Linn (Rte. 48) ; c. Amulree and


rioute 48. — Diinheld to PitlocJirie.


Small Glen (Ete. 45a) ; d. Aberfekly,
18 m. (Rail., Dunkeld to Pitlochrie
and Kenmore, 24 m. (Ete. 44) ;
e. Pitlochrie, Pass of Killiecrankie,
and Blair- Athole (Rte. 48).

Quitting Dunkeld Stat., in a cut-
ting which shuts out the Tay, we
cross its tributary, the Braan, and
skirt the base of Craigvinean. Only
partial glimpses can be obtained of
the really line scenery of the Tay,
owing to the thick fir woods.

201 m. Dalguise Stat., on rt. are
the farm-buildings of the Duchess
of Athole, and on 1. is Dalguise
House (J. Stewart, Esq.) ; farther
on, also on 1., is Kinnaird House,
a residence of the Duke of Athole.
The line now crosses the Tay to

21 im. Giiaij Stat.

24 m. Ballixluig Junct. Stat.
Here the Aberfeldy branch Rly. is
given off (Rte. 44), on the way to
Taymouth and Loch Tay.

On a peninsula formedby the junc-
tion of the Tunimel and Tay stands
the village of Logierait (onl.). Just
above a monumental cross has been
erected to the 6th Duke of Athole.
The Tay is here crossed by a chain
boat, which is swept from side to
side by the action of the stream.

The railway now ascends the Yale
of Tummel.

14 m. from Ballinluig on rt. is the
village and white inn of MouUncarn,
near which are some Falls, and the
remains of an old tower about 80 ft.
square, of the history of which
nothing is known.

Passing rt. Croftinloan (Captain
Jack Murray), Donavourd (G.
Gordon, Esq.), and 1. Killichangie
and Dunfallandie (Miss Ferguson),
the rly. reaches

Pitlochrie Stat. {Inn : Fisher's, ad-

joining the Stat.), very good, but
generally full in Aug. and Sept.

Pitlochrie is a neat quiet village
of lodging-houses, much resorted to
in summer. It is charmingly situated
on an eminence above the Tummel,
surrounded by wooded hills, over
which, on the N., soars the grand
mass of Ben Vracky.

For those who have leisure to stop
here, the hills and woods around
offer walks and rides almost without
end. Palish ch., Episcopal ch.. Free

JFalks. — a. To the village of Mou-
lin (2 m. N.), on the road to Spital of
Glenshee. Near it are Balnakielly
(H. B. Stewart, Esq.), which is likely
to be turned into a Hydropathic
Receptacle, and Balledmund (J.
Ferguson, Esq.) b. The ascent of
Ben Vracky is a walk of 6 or 7 m. ;
2^ hrs. ; fine view.

c. 1 m. E. of Pitlochrie, not far
from the Episcopal Chapel, a small
glen opens out, in which is a tiny
cascade called the Black Spout.

cl. The woods and grounds of Fas-
kalhj, 2 m. up the valley of the
Tummel, abound in charming shady
walks reaching to the river side.
Respectable persons are readily ad-
mitted by Mr. Butter, the obliging
owner. There is no need to approach
the house closely, much less to stare
in at the windows. {See next page. )

e. To the Falls of Tummel— Im-
mediately above the House of Fas-
kally, the river Garry, descending
from Killiecrankie Pass and Blair-
Athole, joins the Tummel, Avhose
upper course is nearly from W. to E.
A short distance above this junction
are the Falls of Tummel, which are
pretty, and formed by a large body
of water, though not above 18 ft.
high. In order to reach them,
follow the Blair- Athole road past
Faskally, for 4 m., where a road de-


Route 48. — Loch Tiimmel ; KilUecranhie. Sect. 'IV.

scends to a Bridge over the Garry-
A little beyond this a footpath on 1.,
through fields and plantations, leads
to the Falls.

/. Loch Tiimmel and Queen s View,
8 m. , or 4^ m. beyond the Bridge of
Garry, the road, ascending the 1.
bank of the river Tunimel, passes
Bo'iiskdd (G.F. Barbour, Esq.) After
crossing the mouth of the little Glen
of Fincastle, ascend a hill, from
the summit of which a projecting
bastion of rock permits a magnificent
prospect, known as the "■Queens
View''^ of Loch Tummel, 8 m., at a
great depth below, witli its rocks and
forest-covered headlands, backed up

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