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at the W. end by the peaks of Sche-
hallion and Fan-agon.

Passing Portnellan on the X. side
of the lake, and continuing along the
upper course of the river, the tourist
reaches Bridge of Tummel Inn, a
very pleasant fishing-station.

From here one road runs N. to Dal-
nacardoch, another due S. to Comrie,.
Cushieville, and Kenmore (Ete. 44),
Avliile the main road continues on to
Kinloch-Eannoch, 21 m. Hence the
tourist can continue a walking excur-
sion over to Glencoe (Rte. 47).]

From Pitlochrie the tourist may
visit Glentilt, Bruar Falls, Blair-
Athole Castle grounds, and an ex-
cursion may be made to the summit
of the Hill of Tulloch {see p. 298.)

Coach in summer to Kinloch-Ran-
noch from Pitlochrie.



From Pitlochrie the rly. ascends
the valley of the Tummel in cuttings,
piissing behind Faskally.

The great charm of Pitlochrie is
its vicinity to the mouth of the
grandly -wooded defile, in the midst
of which the Tummel, coming from
the W., is joined by the Garry, de-
scending from Blair- Athole. The N.



part of this defile is properly the
Pass of KiJliecranMc. The beauties
of the magnificent scenery are lost
to those who merely pass through in
the train. It is best explored on
foot or in an open carriage. The
road and railway run through the
Pass side by side. They both tra-
verse the beautiful woods of Faskally
(Arch. Butter, Esq.), whose house is
barely seen L placed in the midst of
a sunny haugh, just below the junc-
tion of the Garry with the Tummel.
A little further on (1.) a wooden foot-
bridge leads over the rl}^ , and a road
branches down to the Old Bridge of
Garnj, commanding a fine view up the
Pass and of Ben-y-Gloe at its head.
This bridge leads to the Falls and
Loch of Tummel. From the Bridge
of Garry also a footpath leads up the
1. bank of the Garry, through Mr.
Butter's grounds, along the line of
the old road by which Gen. Mackay
marched his army to encounter Dun-
dee. From this path, which goes
under the Rly. Viaduct, a just esti-
mate of the grandeur of the Pass can
alone be formed. A wicket-gate also
leads 1. out of the high road down to a
jutting point called the Queens View,
from which you look over the Ely.
Viaduct, and down the course of the
river.

The rly., which hitherto has been
carried in cuttings along the shoulder
of the hills, is conveyed over a small
burn descending to the Garry, on a
noble Viaduct of 10 arches, and at
once penetrates the hill beyond in a
tunnel, emerging from which the
train reaches

Killiecrankie Stat. — About \ m.
N. of this is the field of battle.

The Pass of Killiecrankie is cele-
brated for the battle fought in July
1689, between General Mackay,
who commanded for William III.,
and Claverhouse (Viscount Dundee)
on the side of King James VII., and
in which the latter commander re-
ceived his death wound. But it



Scotland. ^.48. — Pass of KiUiecr ankle ; Blair- A thole. 297



must be remarked that the battle
itself did not take place in the Pass,
for Claverhouse allowed the royal
troops to emerge and form in the
opening of the valley.

"The ascent of General Mackay's
troops on the day of the battle was
long and toilsome ; for even the foot
had to climb by twos and threes, and
the baggage-horses, 1200 in number,
could only mount one at a time. No
wheeled carriage had ever been
tugged up that arduous path. The
head of the column had emerged,
and was on the tableland, w^hile the
rear-guard was still in the plain
below.

"It was past 7 o'clock ; Dundee
gave the word ; the Highlanders
dropped their plaids. The few who
were so luxurious as to wear socks of
untanned hide spurned them away.
It was long remembered in Loch-
aber that Lochiel took off what pro-
bably was the only pair of shoes in
the clan, and charged barefoot at
the head of his men. The whole
line advanced firing. The enemy
returned the fire and did much exe-
cution. AVhen only a small space
was left between the armies, the
Highlanders suddenly flung away
their firelocks, drew their broad-
swords, and rushed forward with a
fearful yell. The Lowlanders pre-
pared to receive the shock ; but this
was then a long and awkward pro-
cess, and the soldiers were still
fumbling with the muzzles of their
guns and the handles of their bayo-
nets, when the whole flood of Mac-
leans, Macdonalds, and Camerons
came down. The ranks of Balfour's
regiment broke. He was cloven
down while struggling in the press.
Eamsay's men turned their backs
and dropped their arms. Mackay's
own foot were swept away by the
furious onset of the Camerons. His
brother and nephew exerted- them-
selves in vain to rally the men. The
former was laid dead on the ground
by the stroke of a claymore. The



latter, with eight wounds in his body,
made his way to his uncle's side.
Even in that extremity, IMackay
retained his self-possession. He had
still one hope. A charge of horse
might recover the day ; for of horse
the bravest Highlanders were sup-
posed to stand in awe. But he called
on the horse in vain. Belhaven,
indeed, behaved like a gallant gen-
tleman ; but his troopers, appalled
by the order of the infantry, galloped
ofl" in disorder. Annandale's men fol-
lowed ; all was over ; and the mingled
torrent of red coats and tartans went
roaring down the valley to the gorge
of Killiecrankie." — Lord Macau/ay.

The scenery of the Pass, which is
about 1^ m. in length, is exceedingly
beautiful, the river Garry foaming
at the bottom in its rocky channel,
while the wooded hills rising on
each side shut it completely in.



Stat., is Urrard House (Mrs.
Alston Stewart), into which Dundee
is said to have been carried after he
had received his mortal wound. An
upright stone in the middle of a field
is said to mark the spot where he
fell ; but it is generally believed to
have been part of an old stone
monument. As the road emerges
from the Pass the winding valley is
adorned with several pretty villas
and residences, such as Killiecrankie
Cottage, Strathgarry House (Mrs.
Stewart), and Lude House (J. P.
M'lnro}^ Esq.), with the height of
Ben-y-Gloe rising behind.

The railway and road cross on
bridges the river Tilt, close to

35 m. Blair-Athole Stat. {Inns :
Athole Arms, an excellent house,
opposite the Duke's park gate,
which is close to the stat ; Bridge of
Tilt Inn. Strangers are admitted to
the park and grounds, but must be
attended by a guide, who receives
Is. from each person.



298



Route 48, — Blair Castle ; Bruar Falls. Sect. IV.



Blair Castle, the principal residence
of the D. of Athole, was dismantled in
1690, to prevent its being garrisoned
by the rebels, but it was restored
with towers and re-embattled 1870.
It was built by John of Strathbogie,
one of the Comyns, who became Earl
of Athole by marriage, and is rather
destitute of architet^tural features.
The site and the grounds are charm-
ing. They include fine trees, espe-
cially several grand Larches — rivals
in age and size of those at Dunkeld.
In the old Church, behind the house,
was buried the valiant Dundee, the
hero of Killiecrankie, but his remains
have been removed to the Ch. of Old
Deer. The family of Murray ranks
high in antiquity and importance
in the annals of Scotland, and the
motto now borne by them, " Furth
fortune, and fill the fetters," was
gi'anted to an ancestor by James I.,
who sent him in command of his
troops against a rebellious Lord of
the Isles. The ^larquis of Tulli-
bardine and 2 brothers were " out "
with i\Iar in 1715, on the side of the
Old Pretender, and after many years'
exile, 2 of them (the third being dead)
returned with Charles Edward in
1745. The Marquis unfurled the
Prince's banner at Glenfinnan, and
Lord G. Murray was the ablest and
most devoted officer in his army ; the
first in advance, the last in retreat.
He finally escaped to Rome ; but
his elder brotlier was captured, and
died in the Tower. The castle, oc-
cupied as an outpost of the Duke of
Cumberland, was besieged by Lord
George, and defended by a garrison
under Sir Andrew Agnew, just before
the battle of CuUoden.

Excursions. — a. Killiecrankie and
Pitlochrie {a,nte) ; h. Falls of Bruar
3| m. N. ; c. Glentilt and Braemar
(Ete. 52c) ; d. HiU of TuUoch.

The Hill of TuUoch was ascended
by Her Majesty and the Prince Con-
sort. She greatlj^ praises the View.

The lower part of Glentilt is



included in the grounds of Blair,
and i)resents some pretty wooded
and rocky scenery, in the style of
Ruysdael's pictures. No one need
ascend to the head of Glentilt in
search of fine scenery, nor for other
reasons, except he be bound for
Braemar {see Rte. 52c), to which it
is a short-cut bridle-way.

The Falls of the Bruar well de-
serve to be visited from Blair-A thole,
4 m.

10 m. The Falls of Bruar, three
romantic cascades, each differing
from the other, afford fine studies
for the artist of rock and water, and
rich and varied foliage, far finer than
the Falls of Tummel. A carriage-
road leads \\\) to the second, and a
path from thence gives easy access
to all of them, up one side of the
stream and down the other ; distance
1 m.

The sides of the stream are
planted with fir, the result of a vis't
from Burns, Avho wrote the " Humble
Petition of Bruar Water to the noble
Duke of Athole."



' Would then my noble master please

To grant my highest wishes,
He'll shade my banks wi' towering trees
And bonnie spi-eading bushes."



The Rly. going N. crosses the
Bruar a little above its junction
with the Garry, about a mile before
reaching

40 m. Struan Stat., which is 2 ni.
from Bruar Falls.

Coach from Struan Stat, to Kin-
loch-Kannoch.

Near Struan Stat, (a fine retro-
spective view over Blair-Athole) is
the old mansion of Struan. The
rly., constantly rising, passes through
birch plantations. The channel of
the Garr}' is a trough of slate rocks,
which form a succession of rapids.



Inverness. Route 48. — Blair-Athole to Kingussie.



299



444 m., rt., is Dalnacardoch.
This point is the boundary between
the forest of Athole and that of
Druniouchter. A road runs S.
from here to Strath Tummel, cross-
ing in its course Glen Erochkie,
The gradients of the rly. have been
getting steeper and steeper, and the
traveller now tinds the country
very much wilder and more deso-
late as he approaches the summit
level. If the day is clear the moun-
tains on rt. show to great advantage.

Near this we bid adieu to trees,
not to be seen again until we reach
Strathspey. The old coach road
may be traced in places by tlie black
snow-posts, and the rly. is defended
from snow-drifts by strong palissade
screens, notwithstanding the line is
often blocked up in severe winters.

51 m. Balnaspiclal Stat., very near
the source of the Gany in Loch
Garry, which is seen 1., a little to
the S.

52.^ m. The line now attains its
highest point, and enters Inverness-
shire at Drumouchter Fass, where
the line and road run between the
mountains called Badenoch Boar on
the rt. and the Athole Sow on the 1.,
immediately after which the water-
shed of the Spey is entered.

' ' The piles of the glacier debris
Avhich can be traced to tlie head of
Glengarry, cross the watershed, and
go down Glentruim, showing that
the glacier of Loch Garry split upon
the watershed, and sent one branch
into Glengarry, the other into Glen-
truim. The deep pass of Drum-
ouchter, 1450 ft. above the sea, is
as wild a scene as can be reached in
the Highlands by a turnpike-road."
■ — Geikie.

1. The head of Loch Ericht is
visible from the rly. before reaching

59 m. Dalwhinnie Stat. Inn, at the
head of Glentruim, a desolate and
solitary spot, protected by a few
fir-trees from the cold winds.



[On 1. lies Loch Ericht or Errochd,
good fishing, and boats (no road),
a long dreary lake, surrounded on
all sides by the mountains of the
forest of Drumouchter and those of
the forest of Ben Alder, of wdiich
Ben Alder (3741 ft.) is the highest
point. The water of this loch is
never known to freeze. In a cave in
Ben Alder Prince Charlie was con-
cealed by Cluny Macpherson.]

[A road also runs N. from Dal-
whinnie to Laggan, 7 m., to join
that between Kingussie and Fort-
William, Rte. 38]. Near the inn on
rt. is Gen. AYade's stone, with the
date of 1729 upon it. This marks
the spot where the troops who made
the roads from Inverness met those
who were working up from Dunkeld,
and commemorated the fact and the
date on this stone. There is a fine
view of Schehallion on 1. The Avild
country here has on more than one
occasion been a favourite rendezvous
and stronghold of the Highlanders,
who have here held their own against
a far more numerous force of dis-
ciplined trooi>s. In this neighbour-
hood even Cromwell's Ironsides re-
ceived a check from the men of
Athole, and Gen. Cope, declining to
encounter the Highlanders descend-
ing from the Pass of Corryarrack,
retired to Inverness, leaving open
the Lowlands and the road to Edin-
burgh, Aug. 26, 1745.

Between Dalwhinnie and New-
tonmore the Truim Water is crossed
at Ettridge Bridge. The river Spey
descending from its mountain cradle
in the W. under Cairndearg, down
Glenlaggan, receives the Truim
near Glentruim House (Major L.
Macpherson). Inveriiahavon, where
the two rivers unite, was the scene
of a great battle fought in the reign
of James I. between the clans
Cameron and Mackintosh.

The rly. descends the valley for
some way parallel with the Spey to

69 m. Newtonmore &id±., where the



300



Rmde 48. — Dunkeld to Inverness.



Sect. IV.



country becomes more picturesque,
producing a short turf tliat forms
excellent pasture for the Badenoch
sheep. The Spey soon swells into a
broad stream, its banks fringed with
corn crops, and finely backed by the
outline of the Grampian Chain on rt.
At Newtonmore the rly. and the road
cross the Spey, and keep along its 1,
bank to

72 m. Kingussie Stat. , pronounced
Kingeusie (Hotel, a good Inn), a vil-
lage of some size, and, together with
the greater part of the surrounding
district, the property of Evan Baillie,
Esq., of Dochfour, Avho purchased
it from the last Duke of Gordon.
It serves as a sort of capital to this
wild country of Badenoch, Avhich
foi-merly belonged to the Comyns,
though, upon their annihilation by
Bruce' s party, some of it w^as
bestowed upon Randolph, Earl of
Moray. Part of it was retained in
the royal power, and was subse-
quently granted to the natural son
of Eobert II., better known as the
Wolf of Badenoch. One of the for-
tresses by which his power was
maintained was on the opposite side
of the Spey, on a sjiot now occupied
by the ruins of the liuthvcji barracks,
which were built in 1718 to keep the
Highlanders in check, and were de-
stro^^ed by them, 1745.

This place was the closing scene
of the rebellion, for here the High-
landers assembled after the rout at
Culloden, in hopes that Prince
Charles would take the field again.
But he saw the uselessness of an-
other attempt ; and bidding them
farewell, commanded them to dis-
perse.

A Coach leaves Kingussie daily,
in summer, passing Loch Laggan
and Spean Bridge (391 m.), and the
mouth of Glen Roy, to Fort- William
(Rte. 38), 50 m.

Distances. — Dalwhinnie, 13 m, ;



Aviemore, 11^ ; Laggan Inn, 18 m. ;
Bridge of Roy, 33 m.

The rly. next passes Belleville
(Colonel Macpherson), beautifully
situated on high ground. There
is an obelisk close by to the
memory of Macpherson, the trans-
later or writer of Ossian, avIio built the
house, from designs of Robert Adair.
Sir David Brewster lived here. The
Castle of Raits, upon whose site
Belleville stands, was the scene of
the slaughter of the Comyns by the
clan Macintosh. Comyn had asked
his opponents to dinner, and placed
each of them at table next to one
of his own clan. At the appearance
of the boar's head on a dish, each
Comyn was to slay a Macintosh.
But the guests, having been warned
of the plot, Avere too quick for their
opponents, and when the boar's head
appeared each ]\lacintosh slew a
Comyn. At the W. of the castle is
a large gi-ey stone called the Listen-
ing Stone, at which the plot was
revealed.

The valley of the Spey below this
has the aspect of a rolling plain of
hillocks of drifted gravel, covered
with heather, and Avoods of fir and
birch, which, coupled with the
windings of the river, give it a cha-
racter of beauty and variety.

77^ m. Kincraig Stat., at the
foot of Loch Inch, in which the
Spey for a little time loses itself.

To the S. now opens out the pic-
turesque vale of Glenfeshie,* where
twenty years ago the Duchess of Bed-
ford built a rustic colony of wood
huts, on whose rough walls the late
Edwin Landseer left traces of his
pencil.

Birch-woods appear again, and
continue with little alteration as
far as Rothiemurchus, where the
woods and walks of the Doune
(Grant of Rothiemurchus), on the
rt. bank of the Spey, are especially



Moray. Ete. 4=8. — Strathsjmj ; Cairngorm; Gramjnans. 301



heaiitiful. To the IST. extends the |
mountain chain of Monadh Leadh.

On the rt. Cairngorm and Ben
Muich-Dlmi are grand objects, visible
in iine weather more or less from
Kingussie to Grantown, generall}^
tipped with snow.

On 1. is Lock Alvie, and on rt.
Craig Alvie, upon which is a cairn
to the memory of those who fell at
Waterloo, and a monument to the
last Duke of Gordon, to whom this
property belonged.

Between the rly. and Loch Alvie
is Lynvuilg Inn, a passable roadside
hostelry, and the only one between
Kingussie and Abernethy or Gran-
town except the Aviemore Inn. A
pleasant short Excursion from this to
the lakelet, Loch-an-Eilan, and pic-



turesque ruined Castle, on an island
in the midst of the lake, 2 m. from
the Spey, 6 m. from Aviemore Stat.
The road to it skirts round a wooded
hill called Ord Bain.
Lynvuilg is 2 m. from

83 J m. Aviemore Stat. Inn to hQ
re-established.

A grand view of the Cairngorm
range accompanies the traveller on rt. ,
in the foreground birch-woods, mixed
with rocks — highly picturesque.

This is the border of the county
of Moray, and the line and road
here quit the district of Badenoch
for that of Strathspey.

[Aviemore is the point from which
to cross the Grampians to Deeside
and Braemar, by the pass of the
Larig Rue (Ete. 52a). The distance
to Braemar is at least 35 m., and the




excursion, although one of the grand-
est in Scotland, is also one of the
most fatiguing, and should not be
attempted witbout a guide, except
by those who are well used to
mountains. But a guide is not al-
w'ays to be procured on this side, so
that those who purpose ascending
are directed as follows (the sketch
outline is that of the hills as seen
from the station) : — Cross the Spey
by a timber bridge close to the
station, and follow up the S. or 1.
bank of the Morlich, passing a num-
ber of saw-mills and huts occupied
by the workmen engaged in cutting
the forest of Eothiemurchus. Keep
close to the river for nearly 2 m.,



where it is crossed by a stone bridge
at a little hamlet ; then turn to the
rt., and keep the road till it di\-ides.
The one on the rt. leads to the
keeper's house at Glenmore. After
passing that, keep the Larig well in
view, and follow the path as it in-
clines again towards the river, which
is again crossed by a foot-bridge near
a green patch of grass. The path
through the remainder of the forest
must be carefully watched, for it is
not always very clear. It gradually
mounts till the tourist finds himself
fairly at the entrance of the pass, and
at a considerable height above the
stream,]

The country beyond Aviemore be-



302



Boute 48, — Boat of Garten ; Grantown. Sect IV.



comes more picturesque, the way
passing through part of the ohl forest
of Dulnain, where some of the okler
trees are of great size and beauty.
Behind Aviemore is the lakelet of
Belladron, where the rare Ktqjhar
minima may be found by the bo-
tanist.

88.^ m. Boat of Garten Jimd. Stat.
Small Inn near Stat., 3 beds. Em-
press Eugenie lodged here, 1872.
The ferry boat over Spey is 100 yds.
off. Branch rly. to Elgin and to
Aberdeen, by Craigellachie, Duff-
town, and Keith (Rte. 55b), by
the Speyside branch of the Great
North of Scotland Railway.

On 1. is TullochgoTum, famous for
its "Reel." The song was written
by the Rev, J. Skinner, minister of
the Episcopal ch. of Longside, Aber-
deen. Tullochgorum was the original
seat of the old clan Phadrick. Be-
yond the river are the ruins of Castle
Roy, a quadrangular fortress of the
Comyns, with two square projecting
towers, and high archway. There is
a curious vault near the W. corner,
but no history is attached to the castle.

93. m. Broomhill Stat., fiiie views
of Grampians from hill above Stat.
Beyond this the Dulnain joins the
Spey at Bridge of Curr. Here is a
timber bridge over the Spey to Bridge
of Xethy.

On 1. is the old tower oi Mudcerach,
built in 1598 by Patrick Grant, and
without that heavy solidity which is
to be found in older towers. Its situ-
ation, however, is very good, on the
brow of a hill overhanging a pic-
turesque little valley.

From Broomhill Stat, the rly. runs
away from the Spey to

96 m. Ch^antoicn Stat. {Inn : Grant
Arms, good. Post horses, cars, etc.)
A well-built and well-kept little town
of granite cottages ; the wide street
planted with rows of trees. There
are ^j^easaw^ walks in the woods be-



tween the town and the Spey 1 m.
distant, and near the bridge, com-
manding views over the winding river
and the Grampians. It is a hive of
the clan Grant. Castle Grant, seat of
the Earl of Seafield, their chief, stands
on a commanding height, and is
a plain house like a factory or barrack,
but its core is a tower, with walls 12
ft. thick, of considerable age. It
has fine old trees around it. and com-
mands a grand view of the Gram-
pian chain ; and the deer park comes
up nearly to the door. It is seldom
inhabited, Cullen being a far more
attractive residence. The highland
games of the district are however
celebrated in the park in summer,
and atti'act numerous visitors. In
the interior are some family portraits,
and a collection of old muskets.

From Grantown there is a road
to Braemar and Ballater, through
Tomintoul (Rte. 52). Thefstation is
H m. from Grantown, beyond the
Spey (Rte. 55b).

Baihvays to Inverness and Perth ;
Kingussie, 24 m. ; Forres, 23 m. ; to
Rothes, Elgin, Keith, and Aber-
nethy.

Distances. — Tomintoul, 15 m. ;
Ballater, 32 m. ; Braemar, 50 m.

[For pedestrian route from Brae-
mar to Abernethy and Grantown, by
the East Larig Pass, 50 m., a jour-
ney of 12 hrs., see Rte, 52a.]

On quitting Grantown the line
leaves Strathspey, and strikes due
N"., passing rt. the entrance gate of
Castle Grant ; ascending a steep
range of hills, where the summit
level of the ridge, dividing the Spey
basin from the Findhorn, is crossed
about 1050 ft. above the sea, afford-
ing magnificent \'iews on the N. of
Scuirvullion and the mountains of
Sutherland, and on the S. of Ben
Muich-Dhui and the Cairngorms.
Nearly at the top of the ridge is
104 J m. Dava Stat., in a wide.



Scotland.



Route 40. — Perth to Dundee.



303



dreary, heathery peat moss, under
the Knock of Brae Moray. On an
island in the lake of Loch-an-Dorbh
on 1. stand the remains of the Castle,
the principal stronghold of the
Comyns, a feudal fortress, quad-
rangular keep, with round towers at
the corners, and at the side nearest
the mainland protected by double
connecting walls. E emote and appa-
rently inaccessible as Loch-an-Dorbh
seems, K. Edward I. deemed it neces-
sary to put down the strength of the
Comyns, and marched a large army,
Sept. 25, 130-3, to lay siege to it.
He took it, and the existing remains
are of a castle probably built by him.
Thence the rly. , crossing a lofty via-
duct over the Divie, descends to

111 m. Dun-pliail (Stat.), close to
the village of Edinkillie and Glen
Furncss, the property of the Earl of
Leven, situated on the banks of the
Divie. Dunphail Castle (1.) the seat
of Lord Thurlow.

From Dunphail Stat, the pedes-
trian may with advantage Avalk to
Forres, along the beautiful banks of
the Divie and Findhorn, entering
Lord Murray's domain at Logic {see
Rte. 55), about 9 m. Relugas also
is near this stat. The rly. traverses
the fine fir-woods of Altyre (Sir Wm.
Gordon Cumming, Bart.), and leav-
ing on rt. Sanquhar House (C. E.
Fraser Tytler, Esq. ), soon reaches

119 m. Forres Junc. Stat.
Buff"et.

For an account of Forres, as well
as of the railway from Forres to In-



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