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burgh, Newcastle, Hull, and Lon-
don ; to Kirkwall, Lerwick, Wick,
and Thurso,

FmU to Perth, 90 m., and Dun-
dee ; to Inverness, 109 ; to Ballater,
on the way to Braemar, 44 ; Alford,
Peterhead, 4.5 ; Banff; and Fraser-
burgh, 47^ ni.

Distances. — Aboyne, 32 m. ; Bal-
later, 44 ; Balmoral, 53 ; Castleton
of Braemar, 60 ; Stonehaven, 16 ;
Banchory, 17^ ; Kintore, 12 m.



KOUTE 51.

Kirriemuir to Ballater and
Braemar, by Glen Clova.

From Kirriemuir, in Rte. 50, is a
drive of 15 m. to Clova Hotel. The
carriage road continues to the head
of the glen, but over the mountain
is a mere bridle-path, not very dis-
tinctly marked, and rarely crossed
in foggy weather.

This is a fine excursion, and one
of the least known. Even those
whose walking powers are limited
should go as far as the head of Glen
Clova, which may be done in a con-
veyance.

The pedestrian should sleep at
Clova, where there is a comfortable
little inn, the Ogilvy Arms, and pro-
ceed next day to Ballater, over the
Capel, or to Braemar by Bachna-
gairn and Cairn Bannoch. But as
Clova is in the centre of the moun-
tain district known as the Braes of
Angus, it is a good place to stop at
and explore the district.

From Kirriemuir the road runs K.
leaving the village of Kingoldrum
and Kinnordy, the property of the
late Sir Chas. Lyell, Bart, the dis-
tinguished geologist, to whom also
belonged the old Castle of Inver-
quharity on the 1.

5 m. is Cortachy village and Castle,



chief seat of the Earl of Airlie, most
charmingly situated in a wooded
amphitheatre, through which the
South Esk flows with considerable
fall and force, a lovelj^ domain. Part
only of the castle is ancient ; the
very handsome baronial mansion
attached to it was built 1871-2, at a
cost of £25,000 (David Bryce,
architect). Its chief features are a
Keep Tower, 120 ft. high, to serve^as
a Museum and Clock Tower, the
clock flanked by 2 huge stone bulls,
the supporters of the Airlie arms.
The chief entrance is in the pretty
village, close to a bridge over the
river, and not far from the red sand-
stone Kirk, which has a good Perp.
window.

[At Cortachy a road runs in from
Brechin, 15 m., which has followed
the N. bank of the South Esk the
whole way, passing 1. Eskmouut,
Maulsden, Marquis, and rt. CarestoTi.

10 m. at Finhaven (a public-house)
the Esk is crossed by a handsome
bridge close to the ruined castle and
modern mansion of Finhaven (Col.
Gardyne). The road to Cortachy
turns off" at the inn to the rt., leaving
the other to pursue its way to Forfar.

11m. Tannadice House (W. Neish,
Esq. ), and the village of Tannadice,
beyond which is Inchewan (J. Ogilvy,
Esq.). To the right is the entrance
to Glen Ogle. Before reaching the
woods of Douanie, turn to rt. and
then to 1., passing at the back of
Douanie and saving a mile to Cor-
tachy].

As far as Cortachy the country is
well wooded, to this succeed open
sheep-walks. From Cortachy there
are two roads to Clova — one on each
side the river. On the W. bank is
the best road, but the other is rather
the prettiest. Neither of them keeps
close to the river, in some parts of
which pearls are found of consider-
able size. The valley is interesting
to the geologist for the good examples



ScOTLi'.ND.



Route 51. — Glen Clova.



327



it affords of river terraces and mor-
aine heaps formed by glaciers. It is
equally interesting for its botany, and
the number of rare plants it yields.
The lower half of the valley is com-
paratively tame, but as soon as the
mountains at the head begin to show
themselves, there is always a fine
view.

1 m. from Cortachy, on 1., is the
entrance to Glenprosen, through a
pine wood of Norwegian character
This glen (Rte. 51a) is very different
from Clova, the hills being much
lower and wooded nearly to the
summit.

12 m. (from Kirriemuir) on the
opposite side is situated a shooting-
lodge of Lord Airlie.

16 m. Clova village or Kirkton,
consists of the Inn (Ogilvy Arms,
good), manse, kirk, and some farms,
forming a charming little colony,
surrounded by green pastures, and
bounded on each side by lofty and
craggy hills. The road, just before
reaching the village, crosses the Esk
at a ford (there is a foot-bridge for
pedestrians), and is continued to the
head of the glen i m. on the 1. or E.
bank. Overlooking the village is a
single fragment of Clova Castle, con-
cerning which there is but little
account ; indeed, the only historical
interest of Clova is associated with
(rather strangely) King Charles II.
When this sovereign, in early life
(1650), was established at Perth,
amongst the zealous Presbyterians,
he formed a design to escape from
their hands, and take refuge with the
Highland and other royalists. He
got as far as Clova, but there finding
none of his expected supporters he
put himself into the hands of a Col-
onel Montgomery, with whom he
returned to Perth. This incident is
known in Scottish history by the
name of The Start.

A steep ascent of | hour, path



faintly marked, at the back of the
hotel, following the burn which runs
out of the loch, leads up the hill
for

1^ m. to Loch Brandy, a pictur-
esque tarn embosomed in a deep
hollow of precipitous cliffs, which
shut it out from the world.

About 2 m. farther S. is Loch
Wharral, a similar tarn, though not
so well worth visiting ; ' and to the
N. of Loch Brandy is the Corrie of
Clova, apparently the bed of a loch
drained away. The sharp ridge
between the two is called the Sneb of
Clova, and is marked by a very
curious gap or indentation in the
rock. This fissure is gradually
widening, and must eventually sepa-
rate a huge mass of rock which will
fall into Loch Brandy. On the
opposite line of hills is a depression
known as the Sneck of Barns, over
which lies the shortest way to Glen-
prosen (Rte. 51a). From Clova to
the head of the glen the road is
worse, but the scenery incomparably
finer. The hills draw nearer, and
are rugged in the extreme.

3 m. from Clova village is the farm
of Breclounie (]\Ir. White), opposite
which is a fine jagged peak called
the Sgur or Scurry of Doll. A little
above the road on the rt. is a curious
cave produced by the falling together
of rock debris. It is known as
Weems Cave, but has no tradition
associated with it. 1 m. above Bre-
dounie the glen is suddenly brought
up and deflected like a fork by the
grand massive hill of Ought, at the
foot of which is Acharn Farm (Mr.
Welsh), and shooting-lodge of Lord
Southesk. To the 1. runs up Glen
Doll, one of the wildest and finest
glens in Scotland. There is no road
up it, although a pony may be taken
with care. The most prominent
beauties of Glen Doll are the Eagle's
Cliff and Loch Fee, a tributary corrie,
the loch of which has been drained
off, leaving a singular hollow. The
cliffs here are splendid and very



328



Route 51. — Glen Clova.



Sect. V



steep, "but it is quite possible for a
decent cragsman to cross over to
Glen Call}^ and thus into Glen Tsla.
ISTearly at' the head of Glen Doll is
a steep path known as Jock's Lad-
der, by which the tourist can ascend
the Tolan and descend on the other
side to Loch Callater, passing a very
black little tarn, completely encircled
by cliffs, in which the Corbreach
Burn rises. There is also the JFine-
Stoiqj, or " pot " in the rock, in which
the water is rotated. Glens Clova,
Doll, and Fee, are celebrated for
their Alpine flowers and number of
rare plants and ferns. Unfortunately
the locality is so well known by pro-
fessional botanists that they annually
visit the glen and carry otf its
treasures wholesale — a selfish and
impolitic proceeding, Avhich Avill soon
rob the neighbourhood of one of its
principal attractions. The following
are the principal specimens to be
found : — Polypodium Dryopteris, P.
Phlegopteris, Cystopteris fragilis, C.
dentata, Hymenophyllum uuilaterale,
Polystichum Lonchitis, P. angulare,
Blechnum boreale, Woodsia silvensis,



W. hyperborea (rare, at Bachna-
gairn), Lastrea spinulosa, L. dilatata,
L. oreopteris, Eubus Chamgemorus,
Alchemilla alpina, Carex aquatilis,
Molinia, depauperata, Phleum Mic-
hellii, Carex stictocarpa, C. phseos-
tachya, C. tenella (rare), Juncus
Gesneri, Astragalus alpinus, Hiero-
chloe borealis, Hieracium Halleri,
etc., Lichnis Alpina in Little Gils-
rannoch. The indiscriminate gather-
ing of plants is now prevented by
the landowners.

There are two ways of leaving
Glen Clova — a. To Ballater. b. To
Braemar. To Ballater proceed 1 m.
beyond Bredounie up Glen Clova to
the foot of the Cfrpc/ (on rt., recog-
nisable by a cairn on top). A zigzag
bridle-path is seen ascending the face
of the hill, from the top of which
there is a splendid view looking up
Bachnagairn and Glen Fee. Follow
the path along the northern shoulder,
as marked by the posts, keeping Loch-
nagar and the subordinate ranges
to the 1., as shown in the outline
sketch.



C/\IRN BAWNOCK




The path soon descends to Loch
Muick, the tourist gaining a peep of
the savage Dhu Loch and the water-
fall that issues from it. It is 9 m.
from Clova to the end of Loch
MuicJc, belonging to the Queen,
a beautiful sheet of water, hemmed
in on all sides but one by steep
mountains. At the head of it is



lOCM AfU'Sfi



the handsome lodge built by the
Prince Consort, from whence there
are riding paths to Dhu Loch, which
is guarded by the precipices of Loch-
nagar on the one side and Craig Dhu
Loch on the other. From the foot
of Loch Muick (a noted place for
pic-nics) it is 9 m. to Ballater. There
is a road on either side the glen —



Scotland. Routes 51, GUn Clova. — 51a, Ghn Slue.



329



but the one on the 1, bank of the
Muick is the Queeiis Drive, not gene-
rally accessible to tourists, and
never when Her Majesty is at Bal-
moral. 1| m. from the loch is ^?^
naghuissac, formerly known as
"The Hut," but now made into a
comfortable cottage residence, and
occupied by the Courtwhen the Queen
resides at Loch Muick. Glen Muick
for the first 4 miles is rather mono-
tonous and bare, but at the Falls of
Muick the scenery is very charming,
the river rushing with considerable
body through a narrow wooded ravine.
There is a primitive bridge just below
the Linn, by crossing \Wiich it may
be seen from another point. Below
this the glen opens out and becomes
partly pastoral and partly deer forest.
In the N". rises the huge mass of
Morven ; to the rt. is the shoulder of
Mt. Keen, while the foreground is
made up of the glen and the beauti-
ful woods of Birk Hall, formerly
occupied by Sir Jas. Clark, by the
Prince of Wales during his Highland
residence, and latterly by General Sir
W. Knollys.

17 m. from Clova is the Bridge
of Muick, where that river enters
the Dee, the road across it leading to
Knock Castle and Abergeldie.

18 m. Ballater (Rte. 52).

h. From Clova to Braeniar the dis-
tance is about the same as to Ballater,
but the path is not so easy to find.
Instead of turning off up the Capel,
keep straight on to the head of Glen
Clova as far as Bachnagairn, a
shooting-lodge, 7 m. from Clova.
Half-way up the Esk has to be forded,
but the pedestrian may avoid it by
crossing the bridge near Acharn,
and following a footpath on the W.
bank of the river. BachnagoArn is
splendidly situated amongst the rocks
at the head of the glen, and deeply
embosomed amidst the firs of a deer
forest. The South Esk, which rises in
Loch Esk, about 2 m. higher up, falls
{Scotland. ]



in one grand leap of 70 or 80 ft. in
height, the cliffs on each side bound-
ing it like a wall. Unfortunately it is
so shrouded by the forest that the visi-
tor must approach close to it, and thus
some of the effect is lost. From Bach-
nagairn cross the stream by a foot-
bridge and follow the path to the rt.,
which winds round the crest of the
hill. Do not attempt to folIoAv the
river, for the ground is uneven and
very boggy. The path keeps to the W.
of Craig Dhu Loch, and close to the
side of Cairn Bannock, from whence
on a clear day the Ochill and
Lomond Hills may be seen. From
thence it descends and joins the path
from Braemar to Lochnagar on the
side of Cairn Taggart. Follow this
path down to Loch Callater, and
thence by Glen Callater to Glen
Clunie and

Braemar (Rte. 52a).



ROUTE 51 A.

BrecMn to Glen Shee, by West
Water, Clova, Glen Prosen,
and Glen Isla. For Pedes-
trians.

This route is a carriage -road as far
as Lethnot, and is continued to
Edzell (Rte. 51b), but beyond Leth-
not is for pedestrians only. It is
a good one for examining the scenery
of Forfarshire and the Braes of Angus.
The distances are as follows : —

Brechin to Lethnot, 7 m.

Lethnot to Clova, 16 m. (good
Inn).

Clova to Glen Prosen, 6 m. (Inn).

Glen Prosen to Glen Isla, 12 m.
(Inn).

Glen Isla to Glen Shee, 16 m.
(Inn).

As there is no inn of any sort at

Lethnot, it will be a good j)lan to

drive from Brechin, the walk from

Lethnot to Clova being sufliciently

p2



330 Route 51 A. — The Catertuns ; Clova ; Glen Prosen. Sect. Y.



long. The road crosses the Cruick
Water, passes the property of Balua-
moon, and ascends the Menmuir
Hills, at the summit of which it
passes between two round-backed
hills, each capped with a Cale-
donian or British fort, called the
Brown and White Cater tun. The
"White Catertun on 1. of road is an
ov\il fortification, of concentric rings
of loose whitish stones, measuring
25 ft. across at the top and 200 ft.
at the base. They have been dis-
turbed and huddled so as to destroy
their mural outline, but still rise to
a height of 60 ft., enclosing an oval
area measuring 436 it. by 200 ft.
The fort is entered by one opening
at the E. The platform on which it
stands projects, as a great bastion, in
front of the Grampian range, Avhich it
commands to the N. and W., iuid it
oveiiooks the plain of Strathmore,
which is studded with Eoman camps.
The Brown Catertun, about 1 m. N.,
is a series of concentric entrench-
ments, nearly circular. There is a
splendid view looking S. over Brechin
and the flat country to the N. of Ar-
broath and Dundee, and northwards
over the Forfarshire Hills, in which
Warran is a very cons^ncuous fea-
ture.

At the bottom of the steep slope
of Menmuir Hills the road crosses the
Paphrie Burn, leaving Lethnot {7 ra.)
a little on the rt. It is a pretty little
village on the 1. bank of the West
Water, but otherwise is of no inte-
rest. The road now follows the rt.
bank through a rather monotonous
glen to

10 m. Stonyford Bridge, a chann-
ing bit of landscape ac the foot of
Warran. The glen now becomes
very pretty, although the hills are
by no means of broken or romantic
outline. On the contrary, they are
rounded in form and covered with
heather to the sumnnts^a perfect
blaze of colour when the latter is in
bloom. About 3 m. from Stonyford



is a shooting - lodge of Lord Dal-
housie's, and farther on is Kedshiels
farm, the last house in the glen. Do
not cross over to it, but keep straight
up the glen by a peat path. It soon
becomes very narrow and rough, and
the rocks in many places are pre-
cipitous. There is a particularly fine
bit at the junction of the Coscarie
Burn with the Saughs Water, forming
the West Water. At the head of
the former cross the mountain called
Dog Hillock, Avhich is very boggy,
but by keeping the depression a good
deal is avoided. A few minutes'
walking brings us over the Kennat
Burn, which tblloAV down into the
open, and, leaving Eotal to the 1., cut
across the moor to get into the
Clova road. The whole distance from
Brechin to Clova by this route will
be 23 m.

Stop at Clova (Rte. 51) and next
day ascend the hill exactly opposite
the inn, the depression of which
is known as the Sneck of Barns. On
the other side a path leads down
Glen Logic to Glen Prosen, passing at
the junction of the two streams ^aZvia-
hoth, the seat of Donald Ogilvy, Esq.,
charmingly sheltered and embosomed
in fine old trees. At the lodge gate
is the hamlet of Bitcarity, where is
a little inn. Within the grounds of
Balnaboth is the ruin of a small
Roman Catholic chapel, probably
built by the Kinlochs in the 16tli
centy. Glen Prosen is characterised
by wooded hills, and a general beauty
and softness different from the other
valleys. A road runs up from Pit-
carity to a shooting-lodge of Mr.
Ogilvy, and one of the Earl of
Airlie's at the head of the glen. But
the way to Glen Isla turns off to
the 1. a mile from Balnaboth, and
goes down the valley of the Mel gum
for some little distance, being in
fact the road to Alyth. The tourist
should turn off at Clintlaw and cross
the hill to Glen Isla (a comfortable
Inn), about 12 m. from Pitcarity.
From Glen Isla the tourist has three



Scotland. Pds. 5 1a, Glen IsIa.—olB, Brechin to Ballater. 331



courses. He may follow the Isla for
a few miles, and then strike south
and reach Alyth, visiting on the
way the unrivalled river scenery at
Reekie Linn, or the Slug of Auch-
rannie(Ete. 50), and so to Alyth ; or he
may pi'oceed up the glen to Forter
Castle, a square tower, supposed by
some to have been the scene of the
burning of "the Bonnie House of
Airlie," and then cross the shoulder
of Mt. Blair by a good road, rejoin-
ing the Glen Shee road at Cray (Rte.
52b). But by far the finest excur-
sion is to ascend the glen beyond
Forter, where the scenery, which has
hitherto been rather tame, begins to
be fine. About 8 m. from the inn
there are waterfalls at the junction
of the Cally with the Isla. Glen
Cally can be explored, and a passage
made over the hills at the head to
Glen Fee and Glen Doll (Rte. 51),
or the tourist can proceed to Caen-
lochan Glen, which runs to the very
foot of Glasmeal (3502 ft.), a fine
wild scene. The shoulder of Glass-
meal may be crossed, and the tourist
join the Glen Clunie road to Brae-
mar at the top of Cairn Well. The
Corry of Caenlochan has not its
equal on this side of Scotland for
beauty or brilliant verdure and
number of rare plants. Prof. Mac-
gillivray says: — "If there are
other places in Scotland which con-
tain as many interesting plants as
this they must be very few. Ceras-
tium alpinum, Saxifraga nivalis, S.
stellaris, S. oppositifolia, S. hyp-
noides, Veronica saxatilis, V. alpina,
Silene acaulis, Erigeron alpinus,
Potentilla alpestris, Draba incana,
Saussurea alpina, Gentiana nivalis,
Epilobium alsinifolium, Aira alpina,
Poa alpina, P. caesia, Phleum com-
mutatum, Alopecunis alpinus, Salix
lanata, S. Myrsinites, S. reticulata,
S. herbacea, and Mulgedium al-
pinum, form a collection scarcely to
be found elsewhere, and in the pro-
fusion and luxuriance of its indi-
vidual plants contrasting with the



granite corries of Aberdeenshire." —
Natural History of Deeside, p. 77.

It is impossible to state the exact
distance between Glen Isla and Brae-
mar, but it cannot be less than 25
miles.



ROUTE 5lB.

Brechin to Ballater, by Edzell
and Glenmark. 35 m.

This is a very fine route, but the
distances are long, and there is no
inn between Edzell and Ballater, 29
m., so that the best plan would be
to sleep at Edzell, see the castle and
the burn, and then drive from Ed-
zell for as many miles as the tourist
chooses.

Brechin to Edzell, 6 m. Omni-
bus daily. Follow Aberdeen road
2 m., turn N. (L), cross the Cruick
and West Water not far from Stra-
cathro (Sir J. Campbell), and the
Gothic castle of Inglismaldie (Ld.
Kintore). Another, but longer road
is by the Catertun Forts (Rte. 51a).

Edzell {Inn : Panraure Arms, post
horses, good headquarters for explor-
ing) is a neat village, situated on the
1. bank of the North Esk, which here
has a very broken and romantic
course. 1 m. from the village, on
the road to Lethnot, and near the
West Water, are the ruins of * Edzell
Castle, surrounded by a grove of
trees. This fortress in old times com-
manded the entrance to the Lowlands
in this direction, and the tall tower
of Glenmark was its outpost. Its
first possessors were the Stirlings,
from whom it passed to the Lind-
says, and is now the property of the
Earl of Dalhousie. As in many
other Scottish castles, the oldest part,
the square tower at the S. , built by
the Stirlings, is still the most per-
fect. This was connected with a
round tower (much dilapidated) by
a lower range, containing the state



332



Route 51b. — Brechin to Ballater : Edzell Sect. V.



apartments, built by the Lindsays,
now a mere shell, though compara-
tively modern. The keep tower and
Lindsay buildings overlook a square
enclosure, once the flower garden or
Viridarium of Sir David Lindsay,
whose arms and the date 1604, appear
over a doorway in the N.E. corner.
The walls have this peculiarity, not
only are they decorated all round
with emblematical figures in- bas-
relief of the Cardinal Virtues, the
Sciences, Planets., etc., etc., but at
intervals they are indented with
large square holes, like pigeon holes,
intended to hold flowers and creeping
plants, but -which, viewed at a dis-
tance, formed the Lindsay coat of
arras — the fesse chequee, in combina-
tion with the mullets surmounting
them. l\\ the angle of this court is
an elegant turreted Garden-house, or
lodge of the same date, whei-e pic-nic
parties may make their tea and the
like by leave of the owner.

In the Stirling Tower is the Ladies'
Bower, whose window overlooks a
noble prospect. Here Queen Mary
sat when she visited Edzell.

From Edzell the road runs IST.,
crossing the North Esk at Gannochy
Bridge. A little beyond is the en-
trance to the Burn (W. M'Liroy,
Esq.), built by Lord Adam Gordon,
1791. On application at the lodge
the visitor is kindly allowed to walk
along the river side through the
grounds. The North Esk flows for
some four miles through a gorge of
old red sandstone, forming a succes-
sion of romantic views, of the kind,
not to be excelled in Scotland. The
narrowness and depth of the ravine,
the great body of clear brown water,
the curious tilted arrangement of the
rocks, and the Alpine character of the
woods, make up altogether a perfect
picture. One of the finest bits is
where a suspension bridge is flung
across the chasm, and where the
geologist will observe some very re-
markable masses of conglomerate, as
large as a house. Near the top of the



gorge the arrangement of the rocks
is diff'erent — serpentine and jasper
occur.

The botanist will find, amongst
other plants, Galium anglicum, Jun-
germannia, Saxifraga aizoides, Adian-
tum nigi'um, Alchemilla alpina, etc.
The tourist will discover that by the
time he has exhausted the beauties of
the Burn, he has escaped two miles
at least of tedious road, which he
can rejoin at the end of the grounds.
Above the Burn the valley of the
North Esk becomes open, and, al-
though very pretty and pastoral, is
not of any grandeur or wildness.
ML Battock (2554 ft.) is a conspicu-
ous feature due N.

Opposite Auchintoul there is a
pretty peep up Mooran and Forbie
glens.

17 m. At Tarff Bridge, a stream
coming down from Glen Tinmount
is crossed [and a road on rt. given off
to Burse Castle, where it again
diverges — the one on the N. to
Aboyne, and on the E. along the
Feugh Water to Banchory (Rte.
51c.)]

Beyond Tar jf side the road passes
at the foot of Migvie Hill, and a
beautiful view opens up of Glen
Effock on the 1. , a glen of consider-
aiile length, that runs S. W. to very
near the head of Saughs Water.
There is no road up it except to a
farm.

20 m. at Loch Lee Kirk the Lee
joins the Esk, taking its rise, or
rather passing through Loch Lee, a
wild, though small lake, almost
surrounded by mountains. A farm-
house, the manse, and a few cottages,
make up the village ; there is no
inn. The Earl of Dalhousie has a
pretty shooting-lodge here. Between
the village and the Loch is Invermark
Castle, the old residence of the Stir-
lings, and the first great barrier
opposed to the Highland forces.



Kincardine. Route 51c. — Brechin to Bancliory.



333



Near the junction of a small burn
with the Mark, the late Lord Dal-
housie enclosed, within a conspicuous
structure of stone arches, a clear
spring, called the Princes Well.
An inscription records the visit of
the Queen and Prince Consort, Sep-
tember 1861. After passing the
manse, Glenmark narrows consider-
ably. At the head of it, keep the
craggy hill of Dowan to the rt. , and
begin to ascend Craig Boestock, and
then along a zigzag path called ' ' the
ladder." This crosses the shoulder
of 3Iount Keen (3200 ft), a singu-
lar conical -shaped hill with a deep



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