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Dee continues along the 1. bank.

The country here is finely wooded,
with abrupt bold hills, conspicuous
among which is Craig Cluny (on 1. ),
a peak of solid granite, fringed with
pines, and overhanging the road.

Not quite halfway up are the re-
mains of an old tower, which goes by

the name of the " Laird of Cluny's
Charter Chest," because there in un-
settled times and when pressed by
enemies, the Laird of Cluny used to
hide his title - deeds. The valley
here expands, and presently Inver-
cauld House, the seat of Col. Far-
quharson, comes in sight, on the
opposite (1. ) bank of the Dee, a mag-
nificent domain. The mansion, in
part dating from the 15th centy.,
received the addition of a tower on
its old foundations, and other im-
provements in the Baronial style,
1874. On the rising of the Earl of
Mar, 1715, he dated from this house
his address calling out the clans,
whose chiefs were assembled here.
It stands on a green bank, facing the
Forest of Ballochbuie, and is pro-
tected by a densely-covered amphi-
theatre of hills. The tall perpen-
dicular clifi" of quartz in front of
Invercauld House is called the
^^ Lion's Face^" from a supposed

Braemar Castle, a tall, plain white-
washed building, also belonging to
the family of Invercauld, occupies a
fine situation. It has neither anti-
quity nor history to recommend it.
It was lased as a barrack, and was
long garrisoned by Hanoverians, to
keep the Highlanders in check, and,
from its four storeys and want of
ornament, seems to have been built
for that purpose. In front of it are
held the annual Highland games.
Opposite the castle, on the other side
of the Dee, is a monument to the late
Mr. Farquharson of Invercauld.
Rounding a sharp turn and ]iassing
the little cemetery, the tourist reaches

60 m. Castleton of Braemar {Inns:
Fisher's Invercauld Arms, best situa-
tion ; Fife Arms ; both good) a scat-
tered village at the junction of tlie
Clunie torrent, from the S., with the
Dee, at the height of 1180 ft. above
the sea. It is consequently cele-
brated for the extreme purity and


Route 62. — Braemar ; Lochnagar.


bracing character of its air. It is a
simple rustic village, and offers little
accommodation besides the two hotels
and some few shops ; but new lodging-
houses and villas are springing up.
There are two places of worship — the
Parish Ch. and Free Ch. — and during
the summer months an Ei^iscopaliau
service is held at Mar Lodge. A
clump of trees near the bridge over
the Clunie, which dashes in leaps and
falls through the midst of the village
to join the Dee, marks the site of
the ancient castle of Braemar, which
is assigned to the age of ]\Ialcolm
Canmore. The rock upon which the
Earl of Mar raised the standard of
rebellion in 1715 has been removed
to make way for the estension of
building required for the Invercauld

On the opposite side of Glen
Clunie is Morrone, a massive moun-
tain, 2800 ft. above the sea, com-
manding a fine view. On it is the
farm of Tomantoul, said to be the
highest cultivated land in the king-
dom. The following botanical spe-
cimens are found on it : — Cerastium
alpinum, Eubus chamtemorus. Aza-
lea procumbens, Trientalis europsea,
Juncus triglunis, etc.

From its proximity to the finest
mountain scenery in Scotland, Brae-
mar is a great centre of attraction.
The attempt to close the Deer Forests
to strangers by the proprietors, some-
what interferes with pedestrian wan-
derings {see Introd. to Sect. V.).

Conveyances. — Coaches tmce a-day
to Ballater Stat.^ 18 m. ; coach every
alternate day to Blairgowrie and
Dunkeld, by Spital of Glenshee, 15
m. ; Bridge of Cally, 29 m. (Rte.

Short Excursions : —

Panics and Guides may be hired at
the rate of 7s. 6d. to 10s. each, for
the entire day. Cai's and Post-liorses
are kept at both the inns.

a. To the top of Morrone (the hill
behind Castleton), 3 m., fine view.

h. To Corrymulzie Linn, 3 m. ;
Linn of Dee, 6 m. ; and back by
Linn of Quoicli (Rte. 52a), follow-
ing the 1. bank of the Dee, past In-
vercauld House, recrossing the Dee
at Invercauld Bridge ; a jjieasant
round of about 17 m., during which
the grand peaks of the Aberdeenshire
Grampians are seen one after the

c. Falls of Garrawalt, 5 m. ; and
Forest of Ballochbuie (Rte. 52).

d. Lochnagar, 13 m., by Loch

Long Excursions : —

a. To Bachnagairn, 11 m. ; and
Clova, 18 m. (Rte. 51).

^. To Ben Muich-dhui, 20 m. ; and
Wells of Dee, Larig Pass, 21 m.,
and Aviemore, 35 m. (Rte. 52a).
Ascent of Ben Muich-dhui, or Cairn-
gorm, 20 m., 14 hours to go and re-
turn ; you may drive as far as Gleu
Derrie. Take provisions.

y. To Balmoral, 9 m. ; and Balla-
ter Stat., 18 m. (Rte. 52).

8. To Blair- Athole, by Glentilt,
29 m. (Rte. 52c).

e. Lochnagar, "The Jewel of the
Mountains " hereabouts, as the Queen
has styled him, 3789 ft., is oftener as-
cended from Braemar than from any
other place. Those who are not used
to mountains should take a guide,
7s. 6d. ; pony, 7s. 6d. Time required,
74 to 8 hours. For a considerable
distance the path is not marked, and,
in case of mist, it is easy to lose the
way to the top. Good walkers can
easily do it all on foot ; but those
who are not, can lighten the day's work
by driving as far as Loch Callater,
5 m., taking the route to Spital of
Glenshee. Go up Glen Clunie for
2 m. as far as the farm of Achal-
later, where Glen Callater comes in
on 1. The road up that Glen keeps
to the 1. bank of the Callater river.
Do not cross by the first wooden
bridge, but by the second, soon after
which the road divides. Take the
one to the 1., and follow it to the

312 lits. 52, Loclinagar. — 52a, Bmemar to Aviemore. Sect.Y.

foot of Loch Callatcr, where there is
a farmhouse or lodge. A ])^t\\ will
be seen breasting the steep hill on 1.
This track bears away to the rt.
round the shoulder of the hill, and
leads to the top. After rounding
the corner it enters a glen formed by
three mountains, the centre of which
is Cairn Taggart or Priest's Hill.
The path does not go to the top of
Cairn Taggart, but winds spirally
round it, passing ovei* its farther
shoulder. The heather will be missed
at this point, this side of the hill
being exposed to the S. E. winds.
The next glen, like the last, has
three summits, of whicli Little Cairn
Taggart is the centre. To the ex-
treme rt. is Dhu Loch, a dark, soli-
tary pool, 2050 ft. above the sea.
Winding round the base of Little
Cairn Taggart the path crosses the
stream which separates it from Locli-
nagar. This is the ]\Iuick Water,
which, running from some springs
high up on the 1., passes through
Dhu Loch, and thence into Loch
Muick. But the top of Loclinagar is
not visible until an elevated plateau
is reached, where the two peaks that
form its highest points appear at
some little distance to the 1. Below
and on the same side, at the foot of
the cliff, is seen the Loch-an-Nean
(Bird's Loch), from which the Garra-
walt takes its rise. At the foot of
the principal peak is Lochnagar
(Hare's Loch), which gives its
name to the mountain. The view
from the top is very fine, but
embraces little but mountain
peaks. To the extreme S. are the
Lomond Hills, next to which is Ben
Ledi, while Ben Cruachan and Sclie-
hallion stand out in fine relief, with
Ben More and Ben-y-Gloe due W.
To the N.W. is the gigantic range
of Braeriach, Ben lluich-dhui,
and Cairngorm, with Morven and
minor chains gradually sinking
down to the Aberdeenshire hills.
Lochnagar is celebrated for its
botanical specimens, but great care

must be taken in searching for
them, on account of the numerous
precipices. In some respects the
view from Lochnagar is superior to
that from Ben Muich-dhui, although
the latter is 500 ft. higher. On a
neighbouring summit rises a monu-
mental Cairn of stones raised b}^
Queen Victoria in memory of the
Prince Consort. Liscribed tablets
are inserted in it.

Excursion to the Linn of Quoich,
a picturesque waterfall in the beauti-
ful Glen Quoich, commencing under
Ben-na-Bourd, and joining the Dee
at AUanquoich, about 2 m. above
Braemar. But between the two
places the Dee intervenes, and there
is no foot-bridge to cross it. There
is a ford about 1 m. above Castleton,
practicable for carriages, except when
the Dee is high, and there is a pri-
vate ferry-boat (6d. fare) about a mile
lower down, available for foot passen-
gers. Failing these, one must drive
round by Linn of Dee, and descend
its 1. bank to the mouth of Glen
Quoich. There is a bridge of the
Earl of Fife's to ]\lar Lodge ; but this
is completely closed to the tourist
public. The Linn of Quoich, though
exceedingly picturesque, is of no
great volume of water. The stream
nishes along, over a succession of
rocky ledges, and in its fretted course,
whirling the loose stones along with
it, has scooped out several hollows
in the micaceous schist, which have
earned for it the name of " Quoich "

ROUTE 52a.

Braemar to Aviemore, by Linn
of Dee, "Wells of Dee, and the
Larig Rue Pass. [Ascents of
Ben Mulch- dhni, and Loch A'an

Distances. — To Linn of Dee, 6 m. ;
Glen Derrie, 9 m. for pedestrians, who

Scotland. Route 52a. — Corriemulzie ; Linn of Dee. 343

cau cut across into tlie Glen direct
from Linn of Dee (carriages must
make a circuit of 3 m.) ; to "Wells
of Dee, 21 m. ; Top of Larig, 22 m.

These routes lead the pedestrian
into the midst of the Cairngorm
Mountains, over pathless wastes, and
unfold some of the grandest scenes
in all Scotland. But the distance
from Braemar to the Spey at Avie-
more is fully 35 m., and there is
scarce a hut, and no inn or house of
shelter on the way, therefore only
robust pedestrians should attemj)t it.
Take provisions and jjlaid.

Comparatively few are able to per-
form the whole of the Larig Rue
Pass, owing to the distance, and the
wild and uninhabited country. But
the ascent of Ben Muich-dhui may
be made from Braemar, by starting
early and driving to Glen Derrie ; the
rest of the work may be got through
- on foot or pony-back, and a return
made to Braemar by nightfall. The
best plan is for a party to club to-
gether and get a break from the hotel
for 20s. ; guide, 10s. Warm plaids
and cloaks should be taken, as tlie
warmth or severity of the weather in
Deeside is no criterion whatever of
what it may be 3000 ft. higher

As the road runs up the Dee
valley the scenery is varied and
interesting. It is a beautiful terrace
drive, overlooking the Dee, Glen
Quoich and the farm of Allanquoich
being on the rt. ; Avhile above these
rise in succession the summits of
Cairngorm, Ben Muich-dhui, and
the flat-topped mountain of Ben-na-

3 m. 1. is Corriemulzie Cotta,ge, or
Mar Lodge (Earl of Fife), said to
stand on higher ground than any
gentleman's residence in Scotland.
To see t\\%Fall of Corriemulzie, which
is almost immediately under the
bridge, pass through a wicket gate
on rt., and down to the summer-
house. The pretty stream falls over

a precipice about 30 ft. high, the
ravine being of considerable depth,
and charmingly slirouded with foli-
age. The path follows the stream
down to the river, 4 m. rt. On the
other side the Dee, which is crossed
by a wooden bridge (closed to the
public), is- Old ]\Iar Lodge, a seat of
the Earl of Fife, let for shooting.
[A little farther on 1. is Lnvercii, at
the junction of the Ey with the Dee.
It is worth while to follow the
stream up for a little distance, for
the sake of the views of the Cairn-
gorms. I m. up the glen the Ey
receives a tributary from Glen Corry.
Follow the path up the Ey. It leads
to a deep chasm, through which the
stream flows. In the rocks above is
the ^''ColoyieVs Bed," or "Rebel's
Cave," said to be the hiding-place
of one of the Farquharsons, wdio was
" out " with the Earl of Mar in 1715.
A ledge a few feet above the water,
100 ft. in length, and from 4 to 12
in breadth, overhung by the rock
behind, forms the "bed."]

6 4 m. The Linn of Dee is a nar-
row fissure between rocks of mica
slate, through which the river
has to struggle, fretting against the
sharp sides, and-tumbling down some
4 or 5 small cascades. The rocks
on either side project over the water
to within 4 ft. of one another, and in
flood-times, when the chasm is nearly
filled up by the torrent, it is very
grand. Lord Byron, when a boy,
had a narrow escape here, by his
foot catching in some heather, and
falling, he was rolling downwards,
when an attendant seized hold of
him and saved his life. Over the
Linn a handsome bridge of white
Aberdeen granite was built in 1857,
and opened by the Queen. Around
the Linn and N. of the Dee are some
grand Scotch firs, relics of the ancient
forest. The return to Castleton of
Bi'aemar may be varied by taking
the road down the I. bank of the
Dee by Invercauld, 12 m.

344 Boute 52a. — Glen Derrie ; Ben Mukh-dhui. Sect. V.

[For continuation of route from
Linn of Dee to Blair- Atliole by Glen-
tilt ; or to Kingussie, see Ete. 52c.]

Between Linn of Dee and its
source, the Wells of Dee, the river
makes a gi-eat bend, and only the
upper part of its course is interest-
ing. The way thither may be much
shortened by ascending Glen Lui to
Glen Derrie by the chord of the arc,
and this is also the way to reach
Ben Muich-dhui.

There is a stile in the wall, which
will enable the pedestrian to reach
the lodge at Glen Derrie in 3 m.,
cutting off a large angle and crossing
the Lui by a footbridge. The carriage-
road from the Linn of Dee turns
sharp to the rt. Follow it till the
next road joins it on 1. This leads
up a hill and through a forest, then
by the banks of the Lui to the
shooting-lodge of Ghn Derrie, where
the Derrie joins the Lui Beg, forming
the main stream of the Lui.

Glen Derrie Lodge, 12 m. from
Braemar (let for shooting), with
a forester's cottage, is beautifully
situated near the junction of the
Derrie with the Lui, and surrounded
on all sides by mountains. Here
the carriage must be left. Distances
— To Wells of Dee about 8 m., to top
of Ben ]\Iuicli-dhui, 3 hours.

The vale of the Derrie on the rt.
leads to Loch A' an and to the valley
of the Spey by the East Larig Pass,
that of Lui Beg on the 1. leads to
the Larig Eue and Wells of Dee,
while out of it lies the best ascent
of Ben Muich-dhui.

The ascent of Ben Muich-dhui is
commenced here. Cross the Derrie
by a footbridge, and keep alongside
its rt. bank through an open wood
of firs, which the wind and floods are
rapidly thinning. At the end of
this cross the Derrie again, and a
naked glen succeeds, bounded on
the N. by Ben-na-Main (distinguished
by a cairn on the summit), behind
which is Loch Avon. On the 1. is

Little Cairngorm, through a deep
corrie of which on the N. side the
Water of Ettichan flows into the
Derrie. After proceeding about 4
m. cross the Derrie once more,
just below the junction, and turn W.
up Corrie Ettichan to Loch Etti-
chan, which is passed on the rt,
" lying like a drop of ink at the base
of a huge, dark, mural precipice."
During the steep and long ascent
splendid \iews are obtained of the
table-land that separates Glen Derrie
and Glen Quoich, with the long flat
outline, and IST. and S. summits of
Ben-na-Bourd. The path is now
pretty well defined, and by keeping
to the 1. a gradual ascent leads to
the top of Ben Muich-dhui, 4296
ft. above the sea, a broad level
platform marked by a cairn. It
is the second highest mountain
in Great Britain (Ben Nevis being
the highest by 110 ft.), is the
centre of the Great Cairngorm
gi'oup of the Grampians, and is
flanked by 4 main outliers — to the W.
Braeriach, 4285 ft. ; to the N. Cairn-
gorm, 4095 ft. ; to the S. Cairu-
toul, 4249 ft., and Monach More ;
and to the E. Ben-na-Main. East-
Avard of this again are the 2 peaks of
Ben-na-Bourd, 4039 ft., and Ben Avon
or Ben A'an, 3968 ft., all of which
are composed of ruddy coarse-gi-ained
granite. Transparent smoked quartz
crystals are found on these moim-
tains, often of large size, and adapted
for cutting, though the particular
brown crystals, known as "Cairn-
gorms," are not limited to this dis-
trict. The upper regions of these
hills are bare and devoid of vegeta-
tion, but their sides are full of springs,
as is usually the case in granite for-
mations. The Lui, the Dee, and the
Avon, spring from Ben Muich-dhui.
The iST.E. side of Ben Muich-dhui
consists of a precipitous front from
1000 to 1500 ft. in height, beneath
which lies Loch A'an, 3 m. in length.
The W. side also is grandly precipi-
tous, the extraordinary character of

Scotland. Bmite 52a. — Ben Muich-dliul ; Loch A'an. 345

the view consisting in the fact that
it is separated from the adjoining
mountains of Cairntoul, Braeriach,
Cairngorm, and Ben-na-Main, by
such narrow valleys that the}^ may
almost be called clefts. " Standing
on the western shoulder, you might
almost imagine that you might throw
a stone on to Braeriach. Yet be-
tween these two summits rolls the
river Dee, and Braeriach presents,
right opposite to the hill on which
you stand, a mural precipice 2000
ft. high." — Burton.

This knot of giant mountains rise
close upon the junction of the coun-
ties of Aberdeen, Bantf, and Inver-
ness. Cairngorm, which is nearly
4 m. N. of Ben Muich-dhui, may be
reached with little difficulty by the
long ridge which extends from one to
the other. The whole range, with its
savage cauldrons and cairns, consists
of granite — "a rock which, from its
usual decomposing character, and its
abundant vertical joints, combines in
its decay a grandeur of lofty clitf
with a smoothness of mountain top,
such as none of the other Highland
rocks can boast." — Geikie.

Flcmts found at the various altitudes
of this range : — Thalictrum alpinum,
Silene acaulis, Cerastium latifolium,
Astragalus alpinus, Alchemilla al-
piua, Kubus Chamaemorus, Gnapha-
lium lupinum, Erigeron alpinum,
Saussurea alpina, Epilobium alpi-
num, Ledum Ehodiola, Saxifraga
stellaris, S. oppositifolia, S. csespi-
tosa, Azalea procumbens, Vaccinium
m}Ttillus, V. Vitis-Idtea, Y. uligino-
sum, Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi, Yero-
nica alpina, Oxyria reniformis, Juni-
perus alpinus, Salix herbacea, S.
lanata, S. myrsinites, Juncus trifidus,
J. triglumis, Carex rigida, C. saxa-
tilis, C. rupestris, C. leporina, C.
vaginata, C. ctipillaris, Alopecurus
alpinus, Aira alpina, Festuca vivi-
para, etc.

From Ben Muich-dhui the ti'aveller
may descend to Loch A' an, and, if
provided with plaid and provisions,

may pass the night under the
"Shelter Stone," {see below). In
a neighbouring hollow, generally
containing a large deposit of snow,
is the source of the Avon, which after
a devious course over the table-land
through the moss, plunges down from
the edge of the precipice in a succes-
sion of falls. Its bed may be used as
a rough stair down to Loch A'an.

Ascent of Ben A'an — Loch A'an.

10 m. from the Shiel of Derrie.

Ascend Glen Derrie as though
going up Ben Muich-dhui, but in-
stead of turning to the 1, up the
Ettichan, keep due N., and cross the
shoulder of the hill to the Dhu Loch,
which lies under and to the E. of
Ben-na-Maia. The streamlet issu-
ing out of it, if followed, will bring the
traveller to the Avon, of which it is
a feeder. The Avon is met hurrying
down to the Spey. Here cross the
Avon, and follow up its I. bank
about a mile to the spot where it
issues from Loch Avon, and, although
it is going out of the way to do so,
this is the easiest plan of visiting
Loch Avon or A 'an. It is a beautiful
though lonely and solemn sheet of
blue water, even at such a height
overshadowed by the precipitous
sides of the surrounding mountains,
3 m. long and 1 m. broad. It is
fed by the small stream which issues
from a cleft between Ben Muich-dhui
and Cairngorm, and falls in a string
of cataracts 900 ft. high. At the
head of the loch, on the N. side,
under the precipice, is the ' ' Clach
Dhian"or ^' SJielter Stone," & huge
rock of granite fallen from above
upon 2 smaller blocks which sup-
port it, forming a shallow cave, the
only refuge in case of a storm, and
in some cases the only night's lodg-
ings that the pedestrian can procure.
From Loch Avon issues the Avon
river, the puiity of whose water is so
great that rt has given rise to the
country proverb —


Route 52a. — Larig Bue Pass.

Sect. V.

" The Water of A"an it rises sae clear
'T would beguile a man o' a liunder year."

The Avon follows a devious course
through a trackless waste until it
reaches the Spey, near Inveravon.

From the I)hu Loch the path
crosses the Avon, and &till keeping
X. crosses a secondary range of
liills near Bein-na-Bynach, from
which it descends (N.\V.) into the
Nethy valley, to join a road between
Bridge of Bruan and Rothiemurchus,
or else to follow the Nethy Water to
Abernethy (Rte. 48). The distance
from Glen Derrie to Abernethy is
about 22 m.

g. The Larig Bue Pass and the
Wells of Dee.

" The grizzly cliffs which guard

The infant hills of highland Dee,
Where hunter's horn was never heard,

Nor bugle of the forest bee,
'Mid wastes that dern and dreary Ire

One mountain rears its mighty form.
Disturbs the moon in passing by.
And smUes above the thunderstorm."

From Glen Derrie to Aviemore,
by the Larig Rue Pass, keep straight
up Glen Liii and cross the Derrie by
a footbridge, and follow a well-
marked path, made for the transport
of the deer, still keej)ing up Glen Lui,
but instead of turning N. towards
Ben Muich-dhui, cross the Lui by
stepping-stones, and keep on due W.
along the shoulder of the hill, until
it leads by a moderate ascent into
the valley of the Dee. Here the
path' ceases to be well marked, and
the ground becomes wet. Ascend
on the 1. (E.) side of the Dee, but
first look back and around on the
view — Lochnagar and Ben-y-Gloe
are prominent. The wanderer is now
encircled by the most magnificent
scenery of Glen Dee. The cradle of
the Dee is walled in by mountains
whose sides are abrupt precipices,
and they vary in height from 1000
to 2000 ft. Looking X. you have

rt.,' Ben Muich-dhui ; in front the
Larig Pass, and the Dee descending
from it in steps. On the 1. of the
Larig rise Braeriach and Cairntoul,
and between these, on the W., open
two tremendous corries or dark glens,
each sending her tributarj'- to the
infant Dee, the Garacharj^ 3 m. from
the source, which even claims to be
the Dee itself, and the Geusachan 2
m. lower, the waters of both leaping
down in cascades like white ribbon.
3 m. above the junction of the Gara-
chary with the Dee are the Wells of
Dec, a series of 5 natural steps, sup-
porting ponds or basins, the largest
of which is 250 yds, in circumfer-
ence, through which the river passes
in succession. The Dee is at first
lost to the eye, the water descending
into a chaos of huge gi-anite blocks,
through which it passes hid from
sight. On either side is a wall of
clifi' of tremendous height, which
seems to shut the world entirely out
— a scene of utter desolation and
solitude-. The path runs above and
to the L of the Wells, and requires
considerable care on the part of the
traveller who has to thread his way
over the loose rocks. It has to sur-
mount a great mass of debris of the
red granite from Ben Mac-dhui, the
result, perhai^s, of the grinding of
souie ancient glaciers, piled high up
against the opposite slope. Soon after
crossing the crest the traveller falls
in with another stream running
N, to the Spey, the Alt or Larig-
Drill, which runs for 6 or 7 m. in a
N.W. direction. By degrees, after
8 or 10 miles of as hard and rough
walking as the Highlands can show,
views are opened up of Speyside, the
woods of Rothiemurchus and Avie-
more in the distance. Aboitt 2 m.
on the other side of the crest the
geologist will notice some glacier
heaps of enormous size, like huge
railway embankments. The path
now proceeds; -above the rt. bank of
the Alt Drui, which 5 m. below the
pass receives from the W. the Benny

Perthshire. FiOiite 52b. — Braemar to DunMd.


Burn, through Gleumore, Avhere are
the remains of what was once a noble
forest. Next it threads some of the
Eothiemurchus woods, which the
owner is rapidly thinning, and
leaves Loch Morlich on the rt. It
then crosses the river and reaches
the keeper's house. Re-cross the
river by a stone bridge, and keep
the 1. bank, past some huts and saw-
mills to Inverdrui, where the Spey

Online LibraryJohn Murray (Firm)Handbook for travellers in Scotland → online text (page 54 of 73)