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is crossed by a timber bridge. Im-
mediately on the other side is

Avievwre Stat., and 2 m. from it
towards Kingussie is Lynvuilg Inn
(Rte. 48).

ROUTE 52b.

Braemar to Dunkeld [and Pit-
loclirie], by Spital of Glen-
shee, Bridge of CaHy, and

A coach runs every second day,
but if coming from Blairgowrie the
tourist had better take the precau-
tion of securing his place beforehand,
as the coach is often full, and the
hotel-keepers at Blairgowrie demand
exorbitant prices for post-carriages.
Between Braemar and Spital of
Glenshee the road crosses a high
pass of the Grampian range, the
ascent of which by horses from either
side involves 4 miles at a walking
pace. The road gradually ascends
Glen Clunie, along the rt. bank of
the river.

2. m. Auchallater Farm, where the
Callater burn flows in on 1. (Rte. 52a),
up Avhich lies the road to Lochna-

5 m. Glen Baddoch comes in on
rt. by Mr. Kennedy's lodge, and Glen
Clunie makes a turn to the 1. The
road now becomes very steep, and
by a succession of zigzags gains the
summit of the range at Cairn Well.
Glasmeal, 3502 ft., is a fine object on
the 1., although it is not so broken

and precipitous on the X. as on the
S. side. The pedestrian who wishes
for a fine scramble may cross the
shoulder, and descend into Caen-
lochan, and thence into Glen Isla
(Rte. 51a).

The high road from Cairn Well
descends by a long incline with
awkward turns, popularly known as
the JJevU's ElhovK Here the county
of Perth is entered. Glenbeg is
followed down to

15 m. Spital of Glenshee, a fair
posting Inn, with 2 or 3 cottages,
finely placed at the junction of Glen-
beg with Glens Tatnich and Lochy,
the imited rivers of which form the
Shee. On the opposite bank is a
tumulus, with a clump of trees,
known as Diarmid's- Tomb. [From
the Spital the pedestrian who wishes
to go to Pitlochrie may save the
round by Bridge of Cally 10 m.,
by taking a slanting j^atli over the
hill to the rt., striking on the other
side the Invercroskie Water, and
joining the Kirkmichael and Pit-
lochrie road by Dirnanean. The
distance is 6 or 7 m.]

As the road to Blairgowrie recedes
from the Spital, the tourist gets
fine views of the southern face of
Glasmeal and Uam Beg.

20 m. 1. Danaglar, a picturesque
house in the baronial style, sheltered
by Mt. Blair and a forest of pines.
21 m. at Cray (Mrs. Robertson) the
scenery is very soft and lovely. [A
road on 1. crosses the Shee, and runs
to Glen Isla, over the shoulder of
Mt. Blair, passing the square ruined
castle of Porter. Distance to Glen
Isla Inn 9 or 10 m. (Rte. 51a).]

23. m., leaving Glenkilrie on rt,
and Dalrulzian House on I. [a road
on rt. is given ofi" to Kirkmichael,
aftbrding fine distant views W. of
the Ben Vrackie and Ben-y-Gloe
ranges. On the elevated moor of
Balnahroch, which is to the 1. of this
road, are some early remains, well


Pwute 52b. — Bridge of Ccdly.

Sect. V

worth visiting by the antiquary.
They consist of clusters of circular
walls, one of which, known as the
"Grey Cairn," is 90 ft. round. In
the neighbourhood are other circles
of nearly equal dimensions, showing
that the district was one of import-
ance in pre-christian times. Calcined
bones have also been found, together
with gneiss and stone tools.

By this road Kirkmichael is 5 m.
distant, and Pitlochrie 17.]

25| m. Percie Inn, a roadside

29 m. Bndge of Cally. The Inn
(Invercauld Arms) is finely situated
at the junction of the Eardle with
the Shee, the united streams taking
the name of the Ericht. The view
from the bridge is charming, looking
up the Eardle, which is spanned also
by the old bridge.

[A road to Pitlochrie is given off
here (18 m.), following up the Glen
of Eardle for the whole of its course.
It is a very pretty drive, although
not remarkable for grandeur until
within half-a-dozen miles of Pit-
lochrie. Between Bridge of Cally
and Kirkmichael are on 1. Cally
(J. C. Constable, Esq.), Blackcraig,
the fine baronial seat of P. A.
Eraser, Esq., and one or two shoot-

7 m. Kirkmichael (public-house)
is a j)retty village on the 1. bank of
the Eardle, but it w^ll not detain
any but antiquaries, who can visit
the early remains on Balnabroch
from hence. To Pitlochrie keep
straight alongside the river, passing
rt. Invercroskie House and Dir-
nanean (J. Small, Esq.), charmingly
placed near the confluence of the
Invercroskie with the Eardle. Here
the track from the Spital of Glen-
shee comes in. Farther on (1.) is
Kindrogan (P. S. Keir, Esq.), and on
rt. the fine Glen Fernate runs in.
The road now enters Glen Brereclian,

on the rt. of which the scenery is
broken and fine, but the Blavelig
Hills on the 1. are boggy and mono-

At Clunskeid, 12 m., cross the
Brerechan, below the shooting-
lodge : [a footpath on rt. follows the
river and turns up the Glen between
Ben Vrackie and Ben Yuroch. It
crosses the ridge and comes into the
head of Glen Gurnaig, and emerges
at Blair - Athole by the Fender

From Clunskeid to Blair -Athole
the distance is about 9 m.]

The road to Pitlochrie ascends the
hill, facing Ben Vrackie, which is
remarkably broken and fine. Higher
up on rt. Ben-y-Gloe, with its tre-
mendous precipices, becomes the
prominent feature. From the sum-
mit of the hill above Pitlochrie there
is a most superb view over the
mountains of Perth and Inverness-
shires, in which Schehallion and
Ben Lawers are very conspicuous.
The road then descends through
^Moulin to Pitlochrie, 18 m. (Rte.

From Bridge of Cally it is 6 m. to
Blairgowrie, the road being carried
along a terrace on the rt. bank of
the Ericht, passing Strone Hoicse, in
the angle formed by the confluence
of the rivers, and on the opposite
bank Glen Ericht.

Not far from Blairgowrie the val-
ley of the Ericht is very fine, and
particularly at Craighall (Col. Clerk
Rattray), where it flows in a narrow
glen, between steep and precipitous
rocks, at least 200 feet high, remind-
ing one of Hawthornden or l^Iatlock.
The peculiarities of this house and
its position are so exactly copied by
Scott in his description of Tully-
veolan, that they were at once re-
cognised by its owner. Oj)posite,
but a little higher up than Craighall,


Pioute 52c. — Braemar to GlentilL


are some remains of a fortress known
as Lady Lindsay's Castle. The road
crosses the Ericht to the 1. bank,
whei'e the Lorenty Burn flows in,
forming a waterfall. It then passes
near the village of Eattray, and pro-
ceeds to

35 m. Blaircjotvrie Stat. {Inns :
Koyal ; Queen's), a neat little town
on the rt. bank of the Ericht, which
sets in motion the wheels of several
flax-spinning mills, employing many
hands. To the S. of it are Blair-
gowrie House (A. Macpherson, Esq.),
and Altamont (Mrs. Ballingall).
[Eaihuay, 5 m. to Ciqxtr-Angus on
the Caledonian main line to Perth
and Aberdeen, passing rt. the little
Loch of Stormont, with its island
and castle, and then crossing the

The road to Dunkeld, 12 m., is
rather picturesque, skirting the N.
bank of a chain of lakes formed by
the Lunan. First come Loch Marlie
and the village of Kinloch, which is
succeeded by Loch Climie, on an
island of which is the ruined Castle
of Climie, said to be the birth-place
of the Admirable Crichton. Be-
tween this loch and the road is For-
neth (W. Speid, Esq.).

The road is conducted between Craig
Bannock and Butterstone Ijoch, the
series being finished with the Loch
of the Lowes.

12 m. Dunkeld Stat. {Rte. 48).

EOUTE 52c.

Braemar to Blair-Athole, by
Bainocti and Glentilt.

A bridle road, 29 miles long, some-
times resorted to as the only direct
communication between Braemar and
Blair-Athole. Of this distance, how-
ever, about 10 m. at either end may
be done by a conveyance. A pony
may go the whole way "with a little

care. Queen Victoria describes the
route in her "Journal." There is no
jilace of shelter or refreshment on the
wa}^, so it should not be attempted
except in fine weather.

From Braemar to Avithin 1 m. of
Bainoch Ijodge is 1 2 m. , good road.
Bainoch to Forest Lodge, 9 m.,
bridle-way, path not well marked in

Forest Lodge to Blair-Athole, 8 m.,
good road.

The charge for a pony is 20s. ; for
a guide 5s. Between Bainoch and
Forest Lodge the rough path admits
only of a foot-pace. It is quicker to
walk than to ride.

A carriage may be ordered from
Blair-Athole to meet the party at
Forest Lodge, but it must be remem-
bered that as soon as the deer season
begins, Glentilt is often closed for car-
riages after 12 o'clock forenoon, so
that in such a case the ponies must
be taken on. The right of way was
the subject of fierce dispute some
years ago, but the glen is not now
closed at any time for pedesti^ians or
equestrians. After heavy rain this
route should not be taken, for there
is a bridgeless river, the Tarff", flow-
ing into the Tilt, which can only be
crossed by wading. In ordinary
weather it is only a little above the
knees, but when risen is strong and
rapid enough to make it dangerous
to ford. It is a great pity that the
Duke of Athole does not rebuild the
bridge over it.

For the first 65 m., as far as the
Linn of Dee, the road is the same as
detailed in Ete. 52a. It then pursues
the 1. bank of the Dee, which here
flows through an open valley ; with
small burns joining it from the hills.
94 m. the Dee is crossed by a wooden
bridge, just where the road turns out
of Glen Dee, which stretches away to
the rt., up to the Wells of Dee (Rte.
o2a). Braeriach, the Devil's Point,
and Ben Muich-dhui are fine objects,
towering over the hills in the fore-
ground, rt.


Route 52c. — Braemar to Blair : GUntllt. Sect. Y.

11 m. The Geauly (or Geldy) has
to be forded, the bridge being broken
down. [The path to Kingnssie and
Strathspey (the Queen'sroute), follows
the 1. bank of the Geauly Water for
some 7 ni. farther, when it crosses the
watershed into Glenfishie, having on
1. Scarsoch and Cairn Eelar. On the
other side the hill, cross the Endiart
atits junction with the Fishie,and fol-
low the rt. bank of the latter stream,
passing Eea Leame. In about 6 m.
farther the Fishie is crossed and the 1.
bank followed. At6 m. from Kingussie
a loop road is reached that nms on
rt. to Pioat of Inch, and 1. to Kin-
gussie, passing the outlet of Glen
Troniie and Ruthven Barracks. The
whole distance from Braemar to Kin-
gussie will be about 38 m. (Rte. 48.)]

After crossing the Geldy the road
crosses the Bainoch, and reaches 12
ra. Bainoch Lodge (Earl of Fife),
where it becomes a bridle-path.
It turns nearly due S. across an
open moor, and for a mile or two
is not very distinctly marked.
Behind is the whole of the Ben
Muich-dhui range, while in front are
the steep slopes and precipices of
Ben-y-Gloe. The Tilt rises in a
small tarn, on the right, and flows
through a glen "so narrow as
seldom to give room for more than
the river, while in many places
its channel is but a ravine through
the solid rocks. This valley is dis-
tinguished by its extreme depth and
narrowness, and by the wildness of
its upper extremity. The ornamented
beauty is confined to that part which
approaches to Blair. " The peculiar-
ity of the glen is its extreme straight-
ness, which makes it appear in some
parts almost like a gigantic canal-
cutting, and the uniform steepness of
the hills on either side ; in fact, there
are not in the whole of its course half-
a-dozen places where it is possible
to get out of it, except by very ardu-
ous and often dangerous climbing.

16 m. The Tar/f flows in from the
W. in a fine fall, hemmed in by
precipitous clift's. The bridge over
it was washed away many years ago,
and the Duke of Athole does not
wish- to rebuild it. In dry weather
the water is not more than 2 or 3 feet
deep, but is subject to considerable
rise after rain. The tourist must
get across as he can, the best plan
being to relinquish one's nether gar-
ments and walk through ; but it
must be confessed that the stones are
too large and slippery to make it a
matter of much pleasure. There is
a corresponding gap on the other
side of the Tilt, up which a steep
path leads to Falar, a shooting-lodge
of the Duke of Athole's. The ford is
called the Pil Tarff.

Between the Tarff" and Forest
Lodge is a cairn commemorating the
place where the Queen lunched in
her excursion from Blair-Athole.

21 m. Forest Lodge is the prin-
cipal hunting-station of the Duke in
the glen, or indeed in the whole of
his extensive Forest of Athole, which
embraces more than 100,000 acres,
and is computed to contain upwards
of 15,000 head of red deer. 3000
deer were driven at once in sight of
the Prince and Princess of Wales in
Sept. 1872. Ever5i;hing in the district
is subordinate to the breeding of deer,
with which sheep pasturing interferes,
in order that the herds might have the
repose deemed so essential. Glentilt,
however, was once inhabited by the
clan of M'Intosh, from whom it was
purchased by the Earl of Athole in
1532. The glen is bounded on the E.
mainly by the heights of Ben-y-Gloe,
"Moitntains of the jMist," the most
lofty point of which is Cairngowar,
3750 ft. The view from the summit
is a good deal interrupted b}^ neigh-
bouring mountains.

From Forest Lodge there is a good
carriage road. At a picturesque bridge
over the Tilt observe the pink hue
of the granite in the river bed. Near

Scotland. Route 53. — Aberdeen to Peterhead.


this marble occurs. The glen, in the
lower i^art of its course, is largely
ornamfMited with woods, while the
river offers at every turn delicious
combinations of rock and water.
There are some picturesque falls
about 2 m. from Blair-Athole, a little
after the notice board \o pedestrians
and riders to take the hill road, with
a view of disturbing th« deer as little
as possible. At 28 m. the Fender
joins the Tilt in a series of pretty
cascades ; the upper one is the finest.
Below the old bridge of Tilt is a path,
whence is visible the York Fall,
formed by a small tributary stream.
The geologist will find Glentilt
very interesting on account of the
limestones which are associated with
the Lower Silurian quartz rocks.
Quarries of beautiful marble have
been opened in it. M'Culloch calls
attention to its min-erals, particularly
those of Sahlite (or silicate of Mag-
nesia) and Tremolite. It was under
the first bridge beyond the enclosure
that Sir James Hall first observed
the phenomenon of granite veins,
that proved the commencement of a
most important era in geology. The
botanist will find in the glen and the
mountains round, Cornus suecica,
Rubus arcticus, Azalea procumbens
(Ben-y-Gloe), Lichen nivalis, L.
Islandicus, Satyriuni viride, S. hirci-
num, Saxifraga oi3positifolia, Silene
acaulis, Pyrola secunda, Convallaria
verticillata, etc.

29 m. Blair-Athole (Rte. 48),


Aberdeen to Fraserburgh, and

The rly. to Peterhead 44| m.— to
Fraserburgh 47^— is the Inverness
line as far as Dyce Juxctiox — and
passes through a very characteristic
portion of the county.

The country is in a high state of
cultivation, proving the skill and
perseverance of the farmers.

If m. Kittyhreioster Stat., to the
rt. of which is a good view of Old
Aberdeen, with its two-towered ca-
thedral and the lantern summit of
King's College. The ch. on the
brow of the hill to the left is that of
]S"ewhills. The vale of the Don is
the scene of active industry — paper
mills (Pirie's), and M'oollen mills,
granite quarries, etc., occur in suc-

4 J m. Buxhurn Stat, to rt. of which,
on other side of the Don, is Grand-
holme House (C-ol. Paton),

Ql m. Dyce Junct. Stat. Here the
line divides ; to the 1. proceeding to
Banff and Inverness (Ete. 55), and
on rt. crossing the Don to Peterhead.

1\ m. The village of Dyce is to the
1. of Parkhill Stat. The ch.-yard
contains some sculptured stones, and
on rt. is Parkhill House (J. Gordon-
Cumming-Skene, Esq.)

llf m. Xew Machar, to 1. of which
is Elriek (P. Burnett, Esq.)

141 m. Uclny Stat. The tower of
Udny, 1., 2| m., belongs to a family
of the same name, and is a curiously-
gaunt, bare building of 4 storeys,
surmounted by corner-turrets, under-
neath which is a fantastic mould-
ing. The two lower storeys have
handsomely groined ceilings, one
being entirely occupied by the hall,
unadorned, but finely jjroportioned.
It has been fitted up and reoccupied
by the proprietor, J. H. Udny, Esq.

16 J m. Logierieve Stat., 4 m. 1.
of which is Tolquhoun Castle (Earl
of Aberdeen), a strong squat build-
ing of the quasi-baronial order, dis-
figured by a quantity of grotesque
statuary upon the exterior. An
inscription over the entrance says —


Boute 53. — Aberdeen to Fraserburgh. Sect. V.

"All tliis warke, except the auld
tower, was begun by William Forbes,
15th Aprile, 1581, and endit by Mm,
20th Oct. 1589."

18 m, Esslcmont Stat.

20 m. Ellon Stat. (Xew Inn), at
which point the line crosses the
Ythan, a considerable stream which
rises near Turritf and drains a large
portion of the district of Buchan,
It is celebrated for its mussel
pearls [Mija marqaritifera), and one
of the jewels of the ancient crown of
Scotland is said to have been found
here. Near the little town of Ellon,
which stands on rt. of rly. IJ m., is
Ellon House, modern, in beautiful
grounds, adjoining an old Castle (A.
Gordon, Esq.)

4 m. 1. is Haddow House (Earl of
Aberdeen), a plain modern mansion.

Near it are the ruins of the old
house of Gight, of which Byron's
mother (a Gordon) was heiress.

23 m. Arnage Stat. , and on rt. Ar-
nage Castle (J. Eoss, Esq.) The
countrj^ is now fairly adorned with
wood, though not of sufficient age
to be thought ornamental, except in
large masses. Dr. Johnson said
that when he had reached this point
he had only seen 2 trees older than
himself in all Scotland.

27 m. Auchnagatt Stat.

32 m. New Maud Junct. Stat. [The
branch line to Fraserburgh continues
due N., passing 33 m. Brucklay Stat.,
and 37 m. Stricken Stat., picturesquely
situated at the foot of the Mormond
Hill, 810 ft., on which there is the
outline of a white horse.

Passing Lonmay and Rathen Stats,
the train arrives at

47im. Fraserburgh Stat., a borough
or barony, of which Lord Saltoun
is superior. It is a town of consider-
able consequence in the herring-
fishery, and its harbour, though

naturally a very difficult one, has
been much improved by works
(from designs by Telford) which
cost nearly £50,000. There are
in the town the ruins of 2 chapels,
Avhich once belonged to the Alabey
of Deer. There is also a tower
3 storeys high, built in 1592, and
intended to serve the purpose of
a college, but never finished. A
second tower on Kinnaird Head, to
the W. of Fraserburgh, was used as
a wine-cellar. In the town is a
handsome cross 12 ft. high, standing
upon a pedestal, and surmounted by
the royal arms and those of Lord
Saltoun, whose seat, Philorth, lies
about 1^ m. to the S., in the midst
of a wooded demesne, contrasting
with the bare country around.
Cairnhulg Castle, on the Philorth
Water, was a fort of the Comyns,
and foj-feited in 1306. It then
passed to the Erasers.]

Quitting New Maud 'Junct., the
first station on the rly. to Peterhead

35^ m. Mintlaw Stat, the village
of Old Deer on the rt. This place
once possessed an Ahhey, and its
remains can be seen from the rly.
It Avas founded about 1200 by Comyn,
Earl of Buchan, for monks of the
Cistercian order. In the Ejnscopal
Ch. have been interred the remains
of John Graham of Claverhouse,
Viscount Dundee, the hero of Killie-
crankie, removed hither from Blair-
Athole. On 1. is Pitfour (Col. Fer-
guson), where a monument has been
set up to William Pitt and Henry
Dundas, Lord Melville.

At 39 m. Longside Stat., the
line crosses the Deer Water, which,
together with its tributary the
Strichen Water, falls into the sea
at Inverugie.

41 m. New Seat Stat.

On 1. is Heading Hill, where th

Scotland. Route b^. — Peterhead ; Bulhrs of Buchan. 353

executions took place in the days,
and by order, of the Keiths, Earls

42 1 m., near Inverugie Stat., is Li-
verugie Castle, the ruined residence
of the Keiths, Earls Marischal of
Scotland, till the year 1715, when,
•in consequence of their rebellion, the
property was forfeited. The brother
of the last earl became a field -marshal
in the Prussian service. The castle
had a splendid hall 50 ft. long, lighted
by 4 deeply embayed windows.

444 m. Peterhead, {Inn : Laing's
Temperance). A Pari. Burgh (Pop.
8535) and busy seaport, chief town
of Buchan, principally dependent on
the whale-fishery, which has long
been a nursery for tlie bravest and
best seamen. The town was founded
b}'- the Keiths, to the memory of
whom a cross of granite was erected
in 1832. The Statue of Marshal
Keith, in front of the Tolbooth, in
High St., was the gift of the King of
Prussia, to the Marshal's native
town (1869). Banished from Britain
as a supporter of the Stuarts, he
became one of the best generals of
Frederick the Great. The place
now belongs to the Merchant Com-
pany, Edinburgh. A large quan-
tity of granite is annually ex-
ported from Peterhead, the neigh-
bouring bay affording an inexhaust-
ible supply of beautiful flesh-coloured
stone. The harbour is much ex-
posed to tremendous sea storms,
which have repeatedly swept away
piers and breakwaters. It was re-
modelled in 1822 from designs by
Telford, and now furnishes partial
refuge for vessels caught on this
stormy coast. The Arbuthnott mu-
seum should be seen.

The Pretender landed here in
disguise in 1716. [The Baij of
Peterhead is bounded (about 3 m. to
the S. ) by the promontory of Bachan-
ness — near which are the ruins of
Boddom Castle, built in the 14th
{Scotland. '[

centy. by the Keiths, upon the
extreme end of a high rocky pro-

6 m. from Peterhead, to the S.
(passing rt. and 1. large granite
quarries), are the ^i«Z/crs (Boilers) of
Buchan. It is a tremendous deep
hollow or crater in the rock, 200 ft.
deep and 50 ft. wide, into which the
waves flow through a natural arch-
way at the bottom. In rough weather,
and in a high wind, the waves rush
in with incredible violence, often
dashing over the enclosing rocks. It
is a fine sight, and has the advantage
of being accessible to view from the
land as well as by sea. Dr. Johnson
calls it "a rock perpendicularly
tubulated." " He walked round this
monstrous cauldron. In some places
the rock is very narrow, and on each
side there is a sea deep enough for a
man-of-war to ride in, so that it is
somewhat horrid to move along." —
Bosvjell. Sir W. Scott adds, "The
path is 3 feet wide, so there is no
danger, though often much fear."
Johnson insisted on being rowed
into the Pot. He also describes the
Duubuxj or Yellow Pvock, as "a yel-
low protuberance of stone, open to
the main sea on one side, and parted
from the land by a very narrow chan-
nel on the other, covered with sea-
birds. " \ m. S. of the Bullers is an
arched rock in a headland.

8. m (S. of Peterhead) is Slaines
neiv castle, the seat of the Earl of
Errol, finely situated on the very
verge of the precipice, above the sea,
in a position which Dr. Johnson de-
clared to be "the noblest he had
ever seen," 1773. The house con-
tains portraits by Sir Jos. Beynolds.
The severe character of the climate,
however, prevents the growth of any
trees whatever.

14 m. are the ruins of Slaines old
castki The old castle was destroy-
ed by James VI. in 1594. Lord
Q 2


Route 54. — Aberdeen to Alford.

Sect. Y.

EiTol had joined Lord Hnntly, wlio
had committed tlie barbarous mur-
der of the "Bonnie Earl of Moray."
The Earl of Argyle was ordered to
march against them, but he Avas de-
feated in Glenlivat, so that James
was compelled to take the field in
person. At Forvie, a few miles below
Slaines, are a large number of shell-
mounds, some of which have been
opened and found to contain hearth-
stones, charcoal, and bones of the ox
and deer.

On the opposite side of the Ugie,
and partly protected by it, is Pmvchs-
craig Castle, a most interesting old
fort. It belongs to the 12th centy.,
and is in antiquity next to Braal
Fort on the Thurso. Eavenscraig
was probably built by the Cheyues,
a fandly which subsequently became
merged in the Keiths.


Aberdeen to Alford and Strath-
don, by Kintore.

A good way of seeing this valley

Online LibraryJohn Murray (Firm)Handbook for travellers in Scotland → online text (page 55 of 73)