tion 73 persons; of whom one is a
physician.
226 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS.
MATHEWS,
Mathews was created by act of Assembly, in 1790, and formed from a
part of Gloucester county. This county is a peninsula, extending into the
Chesapeake ba^ united to the main by a narrow neck of land scarcely a
mile wide, and its boundaries are almost entirely of water. It is bounded
on the north by Piankatank river, which separates it from Middlesex, and
by the Chesapeake; on the south by the Chesapeake and Mob Jack bays;
on the east by the Chesapeake ; and on the west by North river and Mob-
Jack bay and a narrow neck of land uniting it to Gloucester— extending m
lat. from 37° 22' to 37° 30' N. and long, from 0° 33' to 0° 48' E. of W.
C. This county is indented by numerous inlets from the bay, which cut
and divide the land into a number of small necks, that are bounded on each
side by a creek or river. The principal rivers are the Piankatank, East,
and North rivers. The former is a bold stream, about a mile wide at its
mouth, and extending itself 30 or 40 miles;into the interior, terminates in
the Dragon swamp. East river is about the same width of the Piankatank
at its mouth, which opens into Mob- Jack bay; it runs about 8 or 9 miles
up, in the centre of the county, four miles from its mouth it sends off a
branch, named Pudding creek, at the head of which is situated the court
house. North river likewise enters into Mob-Jack bay ; it does not differ
much in size from the two rivers just described, and runs up into Glouces-
ter, for the distance of 15 miles. These rivers are all salt, of course, as
they derive their waters from the bay, a little fresh water mingles with them
at their heads, but does not materially affect their saltness,j?xcept after very
heavy and long continued rains. Besides these rivers, there are creeks
almost too numerous to be named. Muddy creek is at the upper part of the
county, and forms part of the line of separation from Gloucester: it is a ve-
ry inconsiderable creek, and enters the Piankatank. Cob's creek is rather
larger, it is about a mile long, and enters the same river 3 or 4 miles above
its mouth. Glueen's creek is much more considerable in size, being a fourth
of a mile wide, and three miles in length; it enters the Piankatank at its
mouth. About three miles below Glueen's creek, is the mouth of Slut's
creek, which opens into Milford Haven, it is of the same size with Glueen's
creek. Two miles below are Lilley's and Billup's creeks, they are small
and near each other ; they enter Milford Haven. A part of the bay which
flows in between the main land and Gwyn's island, and extends from the
mouth of Piankatank to Billup's creek, is called Milford Haven, and is a
secureharbor for vessels. At the lower extremity of the Haven is situated
a small, uninhabited island, named Rigby's, between which and the main,
is a passage called the Thoroughfare. A short distance below this is Gar-
den creek, which is a small stream that enters into the Chesapeake. Off
the mouth of this creek is a shoal, extending five miles out in the bay, nam-
ed the Wolf Trap, and on which is stationed a light boat. Winter Harbor
is a creek or inlet from the bay, which is narrow at its entrance, after run'
ning a few hundred yards widens, and diverging extends itself into small
branches, which run a mile or two in the land. Horn Harbor is another
inlet just below the former, being much larger but not extending itself any
farther in the land. Dier's creek is an inconsiderable stream, just below
Horn Harbor. The point of land lying below Dier's creek, i§ the lowest
extremity of the county, named New Point Comfort; it is a sandy point
which juts out into the bay, and on which is erected a Light House. After
eastern Virginia— mathews. 227
leaving New Point Comfort and ascending on the south side of the county,
about one mile above is Harper's creek, which is small. Pepper creek two
miles above is more considerable. Two or three miles higher up, is the
mouth of East river, between which and the mouth of North river is a
point called White's. Entering the North river a short distance from its
mouth, is Godsey's creek, and 4 or 5 miles higher is Black Water creek,
opening in the North river and running a mile or two into the interior.
This county is only 20 miles long, and in its widest section not more than
8, and area 127 sq. miles, varying from that width, down to a point, so that
it will be seen from the sketch of the water courses, that the land is divided
into many sections or necks : — thus Chapel neck is a small body of land
lying between North river and Black Water: — White's neck lies between
North and East rivers, and consists of a considerable body of land which
terminates at White's point. The land lying between Cob's and Queen's cr. is
called Cow neck, and terminates in two points denominated Iron and Bur-
ton's points. Between Queen's and Slut's creeks, is situated Crab neck, at
the north corner of which neck is a place called Cricket hill. Lying be-
tween Lilley's and Billup's creeks, is Lilley's neck. Between Winter and
Horn Harbors, is a small point of land named Potatoe neck. The body of
land which is situated between Horn Harbor and East river, extending from
thence to the lowest extremity of the county is known as Point Comfort.
The most remarkable feature in the topography of this county is its ex-
treme levelness. The banks of the Piankatank river are somewhat elevated
and from thence the land descends in an almost uninterrupted plain, until it
terminates in the waters of the bay. It was evidently at some period co-
vered by the sea, or bay, as the whole face of the country incontestibly
proves. There are about 60,000 acres of land in this county, which is of
a medium quality as regards feltility. It produces corn and oats, but is not
so well adapted to wheat, from its extreme humidity; the country lays so
remarkably level, that it is a very laborious and difficult operation to drain
and lay dry the land. The soil is generally a sandy loam, with a substra-
tum of clay; there is little or none of silicious earth, nor does it contain any
calcareous matter. Marl has been found in some parts of this county, and
if sought, could no doubt be obtained in most places by digging to a suffi-
cient depth. In digging wells, coccle shells, oyster shells, and the shells of
many testaceous animals, not known at the present day, are found 20 feet
below the surface; together with wood, roots, weeds and a variety of unde-
composed vegetable substances. Recently, the leg bone of an animal, sup-
posed to be an ox, although much larger than that animal now exists, was
found twenty feet below the surface, which is lower than the bed of the con-
tiguous river. These facts present matter for interesting speculations to the
minds of the geologist and naturalist.
The natural growth of timber on this land is oak, which ship carpenters
say, will vie with the live oak, pine, chesnut and gum. The land after
cultivation, if permitted to lie out, invariably puts up a growth of pine.
Mathews contains a population of 7666 souls, of which number 3481 are
slaves, and 190 free negroes. The people of this county are engaged in
ship building, maritime and agricultural pursuits. Until recently the two
former occupied their principal attention; so entirely were they engaged in
ship building some years back, that the cultivation of the soil, was almost
entirely neglected, and it was necessary to import corn for home consump-
tion — hence it is that this county has been behind others in agricultural
228 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MATHEWS.
skill; lately vessel building has decreased, and agriculture receives more
attention. About 20 years ago, there were annually built one hundred ves-
sels of various sizes and denominations, from large ships down to the small-
est craft; at the present period there are built, every year, from 20 to 30
vessels of different burdens. There are belonging to this county about 200
ship carpenters, a great number of them find employment in the Navy
Yards and other places during the summer months, and return to their
homes on the approach of winter. The low price at which vessels are built
render it rather unprofitable, and the workmen cannot all find employment
at home.
East river is a port of entry, and has a Collector, and Inspector of the
revenue attached to it; there are 1700 tons of shipping belonging to this
port, among which is one ship, one brig, and a number of schooners and
small skipp°ers. Some of them make voyages to almost every part of the
commercial world, hence it is, that many of the young men are trained to
the perils of the sea.
This county is supplied with meal by means of wind and tide mills, there
being 10 wind and 2 tide mills, with only one common grist mill; conse-
quently the people do not feel much inconvenience from long, dry seasons,
except in procuring water for the cattle. The land, lying almost on a dead
level, there cannot be any fresh water streams running through it, and con-
sequently in dry seasons every cattle hole, at which the stock was watered
dries up, and they suffer much from thirst. Sometimes, in excessive drought,
the inhabitants have difficulty in procuring water to drink themselves. Wells
are generally dug 8 or 10 feet deep, so that the water they contain is that
which filtrates through the earth, and when the ground becomes dry, the
water ceases to flow; but recently wells have been dug 30 feet, when large
veins of water have been found, which are inexhaustible. There are a few
springs of excellent water, but they are rare. The manufacture of castor
oil has been carried on by only one press, a few years since the palma
christi bean was extensively cultivated, but it is now reduced.
On the east side of the county is an island comprehended within its limits
and known by the name of Gwyn's island ; it contains 2000 acres of land,
and 200 inhabitants. It is surrounded by the waters of the Chesapeake; it
has two points, that to the north is called Cherry Point, and that to the south
Sandy Point. There is a tradition, that Pocahontas, in attempting to swim
across the Piankatank river, was near drowming, but was rescued from a
watery grave by an. individual, to whom, as a reward for his services, she
gave this island. After Lord Dunmore was driven from Williamsburg, he
took up his quarters on this island, where he remained some time.
The predominant religion of the people is the Methodist: there are in
this county seven meeting houses belonging to that denomination, two of
which belongs to the reformed Methodist; there are two Baptist meeting
houses, the conoreo-ations attached to which are rather thin ; there aie a
few Episcopalians and Universalists, who, however have no places for pub-
lic worship.; the latter never had any church, and the churches held by the
former, under the old established English church, have fallen into dilapida-
tion and decay. There is a Sunday school kept at almost every house of
public worship in the county, and several common schools, but no academ)\
Population in 1810, 4227— in 1820, 6920— in 1830, 7666. It belongs to
the fourth judicial circuit and second district. Taxes paid in 1833, $955 98
—in 1834, on land, $380 13—1694 slaves, $423 50—559 horses, $33 54
EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG.
229
— 13 coaches, $46 10—14 carryalls, $16 20—86 gigs, $50 60— Total,
$950 07.
TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.
Bell Isle, P. O. in the northern
part of the county, 13 ms. S. E. of R.
and 182 S. S. E. of W.
MATHEWS C. H. or Westville,
P. V. and seal of justice, is situated
near the centre of the county. It lies
in 37° 35' N. lat. and 0° 40' E. long.
of Washington, 100 ms. E. of R. and
184 from W. C. Westville contains
about 30 houses, 4 mercantile stores,
1 tanyard, 3 boot and shoe factories, 1
tailor, 2 blacksmiths, 1 saddler, 1 car-
riage maker, and 1 tavern. The pub-
lic buildings are a very neat, new C.
H., 2 jails, 1 for criminals and the
other for debtors, and a clerk's office.!
These houses are all well built of
brick. Westville is a port of entry;
there are 2 regular packets which ply
between this place and Norfolk week-
ly, and 1 that runs from it to Balti-
more. Population 150, including 3
regular physicians.
County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday in every month; — Quarterly
in March, May, August and NovW.
Judge Semple holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chan-
cery on the Tuesdays after the 1st
Mondays in April and October.
North End, P. O. in the W. part of
the Co., 9 lms. E. ofR.& 175 from W.
3IECKLENBIRG.
Mecklenburg, was created by the legislature in 1764, and formed out
of a portion of Lunenburg: — It is bounded on the N. by Mehcrrin river,
which divides it from the county of Lunenburg, on the E. by a line runniug
S. from the Meherrin to the Roanoke river, where it intersects the North
Carolina line. On the S. by the state of N. C. on the W. by Aron's creek,
and the Dan and Staunton rivers, which divide it from Halifax, and by a
line running N. 31° E. 15| ms. which divides it from the county of Charlotte.
It extends from 36° 30', to 36° 59' N. lat. and in long. 1° 08', to 1° 40* W. ofW.
C. — Length 36, mean width 18, and area 736 sq. ms. The rivers Dan
and Staunton are separated by a narrow slip of land called the fork of Hali-
fax, for 8 ms. which in that distance is no where more than 1 mile wide,
and in several places not more than 100 yards, and has three passages
uniting the 2 rivers before their final junction at Clarksville where they
form the Roanoke.
The Dan from Aron's creek, as the river meanders to its junction with the
Staunton at Clarksville, is 12^ ms., and its course is E. S. E. the course of
the Staunton is S. E. by E. and its distance as the river meanders from the
Charlotte line, to Clarksville, is 9 ms. The course of the Roanoke from
Clarksville to the S. E. corner of the county, where it intersects the N. C.
line, is E. by S. — Thus the Roanoake and Dan divide the county into two
unequal parts; that on the S. side of the river is somewhat the largest, but
much the narrowest, and lies in the form of a rectangular triangle, the
legs of which are the N. C. line; and Aron's creek, and the rivers Roanoke
and Dan form the hypothenuse, throwing about 200 sq. ms. of this county,
on the S side of the river. There are on the Roanoke, about 12,000 acres
of very fertile low grounds, which are valued on an average, at $30 00 per
230 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG.
acre: — the average width of the river is about 250 yards, and it has a de-
scent or fall, of about 2 feet in a mile: the greatest falls are those at the
Horseford, and Butcher's creek falls, each of which has a fall of about 5
feet, in the distance of a mile. Fish are not very abundant in this river, but
in the proper season a few shad are caught on the slopes fixed in the ri-
ver, and with small seins: — the other fish are jack, chub, perch, round fish,
&c. This river is navigable for boats, carrying 9 or 10 hogsheads of to-
bacco. The river Meherrin which forms the northern boundary of the
county, is (below the forks of the N. and S. Meherrin) about 40 yards wide
on an average, and the decent, or fall of the river is about 3 feet in a mile.
The bed of this river, is about 10 feet higher than the bed of the Roanoke.
The quantity of low grounds on it, is not more than 1,000 acres, valued at
an average price of $20 00 per acre. This ri^r would be one of the
easiest to render navigable of any in the state, by means of lock and dam
navigation, from the head to Bellfield, in Greensville, where the Petersburg-
Rail road crosses the river. The principal creeks in the county, on the S.
side of the river, head in Granville, N. C, and are Aron's creek, which
divides it from Halifax, on which are located 3 grist and 2 saw mills; and
Buffalo creek on the margin of which, is 1 grist mill. On the latter creek
are situated those valuable medicinal springs, called the Buffalo springs
which in the watering season are visited by a number of persons from the
south eastern part of the state, who do not choose to go as far up the coun-
try as the mountains: those 2 creeks empty into the Dan river. On Blue
Creek, half a mile below Clarksville, is situated 1 saw and grist mill.
Grassey Creek has 1 grist mill on it, and receives before it empties into the
river the water of Beaver pond creek: this creek empties into the Roanoke
three fourths of a mile above Field's ferry. Nutbush has 1 grist mill lo-
eaated on it, and empties into the river, 1| ms. below Haskins' ferry. Cot-
ton creek enters the river If ms. below Alexanders ferry, and Smith's
creek, 2 ms. below St. Tammany. Those creeks which empty into the
Staunton, on the N. side of the river, are the Big, Little, and Middle Blue-
stone. Big Bluestone heads in Charlotte, and Little and Middle Bluestone,
empty into it before it reaches the river. Kettle Creek also empties into
Bluestone. Island creek is rather a biou or arm of the river, which breaks
or runs out below Skipwith's ferry, and again enters the river, about 5 ms.
below Clarksville ; but before it empties into the river again, it receives the
Sandy creek. On Butcher'' s creek is situated 2 mills, and empties into the
Roanoke at Butcher's creek falls, about 10 ms. below Clarksville. Allen's
creek is the largest and longest creek in the county, and discharges more
water than any other, — it has 3 mills on it, and receives on its passage to the
river Coleman'' s, and Mine creeks from the W. and Laton's creek, Cox's
creek and the Long Branch on the E. Coleman' s and Cox' s creek have
each 1 mill on them. Allen's creek divides the lands of the county on the
N. side of the river, into two nearly equal parts, it enters the river about 2
ins above Alexander's ferry. On Miles' creek is located 3 mills and empties
into the river at Goode's ferry. Dockery creek empties into Miles' creek.
Aden's creek and Parham's creek empty into Flat creek, which has 1
mill on it, and empties into the river 2| ms. below Goode's ferry. Great
creek has 1 mill on it, and empties into the river 1\ ms. below St. Tamma-
ny. Robin's creek empties into the Roanoke, near Haskins' ferry. Most
of the larger creeks which empty into Roanoke, head within 2 or 3 ms. ot
the Meherrin. There arc several other small creeks which empty into
EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG. 231
Roanoke, or into the large creeks before they get to the river. The creeks
•which empty into Meherrin river, are Finnetvood, which rises in Charlotte,
Otter creek, Blackstonc creek, Buckhom mountain, and Stittis creek. Tay-
lor's creek rises in this county, and empties into the Meherrin 1 mile below
Gee's Bridge, in the county of Brunswick. The quantity of low grounds
which lie on the creeks and branches, may be estimated at about 4,000
acres, and is supposed to be worth an average price of $20 an acre.
The most eastern mountain in the state is in this county, and lies on the
Meherrin river, at the mouth of Mountain creek, — it is called Watkins'
mountain. This county is neither mountainous or level, but is beautifully
undulating, with hills and vallies: it is more hilly near the Meherrin river
than elsewhere. The ridge which divides the waters of the Roanoke, from
those of the Meherrin, is 210 ft. higher than the bed of the Roanoke, and
200 higher than the bed of the Meherrin.
The soil of this county is generally fertile, although the ridges are thin
and poor, yet it is generally a free soil. The lower, or eastern part of the
county, is generally a light gray, or sandy soil, but free and productive;
producing corn, oats cotton and tobacco of excellent quality, and as abundantly
as any otner part of the county; it is in truth, the best cotton land in the
count} r , but it is not so good for wheat as the other parts. There is a strip
of land, running nearly through the centre of the county, from N. to S.
about 10 ms. in width, commencing 1 mile below Allen's creek and con-
tinuing for 3 miles above Butcher's creek: the land is stiff and red, — it con-
sists of some of the best tracts of land in the county, though upon the ridges
near Allen's and Butcher's creeks, some of it is sterile, but generally it is
the best wheat land in the county, and produces a rich heavy crop of to-
bacco; and in wet years excellent crops of corn and oats. The land in the
upper part of the county above this red belt, is a light grey, gravelly soil,
and produces abundantly corn, oats, wheat and tobacco, but very little cotton
is made in this section. The land on the S. side of Roanoke, is generally a
light grey, fertile soil; and near Buffalo creek is a very free, productive
grain land; on, and near Grassy creek, both above and below, it is not so
good, — on Nutbush, Cotton, and Smith's creek, it is generally very good
and productive in grain, cotton and tobacco, The land on Bluestone, Cox's
creek, Miles' creek, and Flat creek, is the best in the county, except the
Roanoke plantations. The land on Allen's creek and Butcher's creek,
although it contains a few of the best upland tracts in the county, is gene-
rally inferior to other parts.
The minerology of this county is but little known. There are some old
pits, which are said to have been dug during, or before the revolution, by a
mining company; and it is said that considerable quantities of silver were
obtained from them; but nothing has been attempted with them within the
last 50 or 60 years, — they are situated on Mine creek, near the centre of
the county. There are indications of coal and iron to be found in several
places, but no exertions have ever been made to discover the quantity, or
value of it. There is a vein of granite, running through the county from
S. W. to N. E. and in many of the hills, much gray rock. On most of the
districts there is much common Avhite flint rock; and in many places a spe-
cies of rock which is of a yellowish gray color, which pulverizes very
easily, and makes a fine grit for polishing metals. The timber is oak, pine
and hickory, — the pine is principally confined to the lands about the centre
of the county, between Cox's creek, and Bluestone: the oak is principally
232 EASTERN VIRGINIA— MECKLENBURG.
red oak, black jack and Spanish oak, with some white oak and post oak-
The grape vine is very abundant. The under growth is chinquepin, dog-
wood, sassafras, shumack, &c. The best qualities of the high land, has for
its growth, post oak, hickory and black jack, or red oak ; the thinner soils
are covered with white oak, Spanish oak and pine. The low grounds pro-
duce considerable quantities of poplar, sycamore, birch, beech, ash, elm,
&c. with some paupau, red bud and buckeye. The products of agriculture
in this county are principally corn, wheat, tobacco and oats, with some cot-
ton. — The quantity of tobacco, may be estimated at 3,500 hogsheads an-
nually; the culture of cotton has been much reduced within the last 3 or 4
years, and at this time does not much exceed 100 bales for exportation;
wheat is produced in considerable quantities for exportation — and the cul-
ture of it is increasing since the Roanoke has been rendered navigable, and
would be still further increased, if the Meherrin was rendered navigable,
which it is expected will shortly be undertaken.
The amount of agricultural capital employed in the county may be stated
as follows : —
Value of the land at cash price, .... $2,150,00000
Value of slaves, at do. do. .... 2,750,000 00
Horses, cattle and plantation implements, - - 275,000 00
$5,175,000 00
It may be safely assumed, after deducting the clothing, feeding and tax
of the slaves, — the feeding and tax of the horses and other stock, and the
repairs of plantation tools, that the profit on the whole agricultural capital,
counting the increase of the slaves, stock, &c. is equal to about 15 per cent,
per annum ; of which the whites, who are not actually employed in the field,
must be supported, which leaves but little, — not over 3 or 4 per cent, of
clear profits to the county.
The tobacco, cotton and wheat, is nearly all sold in Petersburg, Rich-
mond and Clarksville, but a considerable quantity of wheat, is manufactured
into flour and some of it is sent down the Roanoke, to the lower parts of N.
Carolina, and to Norfolk.
Randolph Macon College is situated in this county, 1 mile W. of
Boydton, and bids fair to be a very valuable and respectable literary insti-