they will hereafter attain, in numbers and extent, should the increasin
commerce and enterprise of the country call fc . : resources :..;«.
the exception of the commercial channels wnicn nature nas provided as
outlets for them, our productions, whether manufactured or agricultural,
are and must be limited to a narrow region of country surrounding them.
This will continue to be the case until the country becomes aroused to the
necessity of following the example of our sister communities, in opening
additional and much needed lines of commercial intercourse.
38
398 WESTERN VIRGINIA— INTRODUCTION.
Had nature been even more bountiful than she has to this favored region,
still if her gifts are neglected or unimproved, no benefits result to the
community. Such is in fact the condition of Western Virginia. We possess
natural advantages in abundance, every thing for skill and enterprise and
industry to work upon, but no corresponding results such as are elsewhere
exhibited, are any where seen.
This state of things merits an attentive consideration and demands an
adequate remedy. Let the citizens of Western Virginia arouse themselves,
and harmoniously unite in efforts to improve their condition and bring into
active and profitable exercise the numerous discovered and undiscovered
sources of wealth with which our country abounds.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
This division of the commonwealth, as recognized by the constitution of
1830, extends from the Blue Ridge to the Ohio, and contains forty-five
counties, with an area of 38,900 square miles, equal to 24,896,000 acres..
The population in 1830, was 378,475, of which the free inhabitants num-
bered 324,988, and the slaves 53,437 — shewing an increase of nearly 25
per cent in the first class, and nearly 24 per cent in the second, within the
preceding ten years.
This sparse population of less than ten souls to a square mile, is not
owing to either a want of salubrity in the climate, or of fertility in the soil,
but to adventitious causes which time is progressively removing. The
early policy of the general government in bringing large bodies of the
public domain into market, at very low prices, and on long credits, with
the recent diminution of three-eights of the former prices placed on those
lands, have exercised a very important control over the settlement and con-
sequent improvement of this part of Virginia. The nearer districts of
level and fertile land in the New States, are however receiving a sufficient
population to give increased value to the soil, and the government sales at
more distant points become less sensibly felt ; but should the threatening
efforts now making to employ the Public Lands as a bounty to draw off
the inhabitants of the old States, by giving new homes to all who will
occupy them, at merely nominal prices, prove successful, no portion of
the original states will feel the effects more sensibly than Virginia, and par-
ticularly the district under consideration. The retarded population of the
western counties, has also been owing' in some measure to the unsettled
state of the land titles ; an evil which recent legislation has gone far to
remove. By an act of the 5th of February, 1831, the limitation in writs
of right is reduced to twenty-five years : and in actions of ejectment, to
fifteen years: and by an act of the 10th of March, 1832, a lein is given on
lands, in favor of the occupant thereof, for the value of the improvements
which may be made thereon, before notice of the adverse title. The first
of these laws gives safety and security to the great body of the land-hold-
ers, and the second gives full remuneration for all the improvements in the
event of an eviction ; they were called for by the condition of the country,
and will no doubt give confidence to future immigrants, as well as invigo-
rate the industry of the present inhabitants. No climate can be more
favorable to health and longevity ;, the temperate latitude and elevation of
the country; protect it in a great' measure from the extremes of heat and
cold, and when they occur, they are very rarely of inconvenient duration.
The face of the country presents an uneven surface, owing to the ranges
of mountains which intersect it from the northeast to" the southwest, and
300 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF
which occupy much of the territory from the North mountain, and skirts
the large limestone valley of Virginia, to the Cumberland and Laural Hill
chain. These mountains rise from two to three thousand feet above the
ocean, but are neither sterile, or unusually steep ; on the contrary they are
generally covered with the finest timber, and abound with kinds denoting
high fertility ; the vallies are frequently extensive, and present to the eye
the most beautiful and majestic scenery. The soil of this district consists
of almost every variety. The great limestone valley of Virginia, extend-
ing from the Potomac to the county of Montgomery, near two hundred and
fifty miles in length, and from twenty to forty miles in Avidth, is perhaps
not surpassed in the abundance and variety of its agricultural products, by
any district of the same extent in the Atlantic States.
From the North mountain, to the western chain oi the Alleghanies, formed
by the continuing links between the Cumberland and the Laurel mountains of
Pennsylvania, the country presents a series of ridges and well watered
vallies, the latter generally rich, and the former not unfrequently offering
easy slopes to cultivation and for pasture. Along the summit of the mid-
dle range much high table land is found, and considerable portions of it
free from timber, and covered with grass. Some of those natural meadows
are of large extent, and serve as pasture for numerous herds of horned
cattle. Although the western division of Virginia may throughout be em-
phatically denominated a grass country, yet it no where else equals the abun-
dant and nutricious productions annually displayed upon those elevated table
lands, and whether the grazing farm is prepared by enclosing and reclaim-
ing the natural meadows; or by freeing the ground of its forest trees, the
product is equally certain and abundant. The country extending from the
Cumberland and Laurel range of mountains to the Ohio river, is generally
broken ; but interspersed with extensive districts of land sufficiently level
for agricultural purposes, and of which industry is annually bringing large
portions into culture.
The Ohio and Potomac, as well as their large tributaries, are proverbial
for the rich alluvial lands which border those streams. These bodies of
very fertile and almost inexhaustible low grounds, vary in width from a
few hundred yards to one and two miles. Sufficiently undulating to pass
the water from their surface, and generally elevated above the freshets to
which the western rivers are liable. These alluvial tracts are admirably
adapted to the culture of hemp, tobacco, Indian corn, and turnips, and after
a few years yield very fine crops of wheat, barley, rye, oats, potatoes, &c.
The upland as before remarked, is frequently rough and broken, but gene-
rally not so much so, as to prevent its employment in cultivation and pas-
ture, when advancing population shall require its use for those purposes ;
the highest and steepest hills are well adapted to the growth and produc-
tion of many of the most valuable species of the grape, and on their sides
the mulberry flourishes with peculiar vigor, it may not therefore be unrea-
sonable to anticipate the time, when wine and silk will be prominent arti-
cles of the export from this region of country.
The principal agricultural products of the western district of Virginia,
at this time, are wheat, rye, oats, barley, buck wheat, hemp, flax, tobacco
and corn, with abundant supplies of indigenous and exotic grapes. The
grazing and feeding farms, which stand next in importance, export annual-
ly a large amount in neat cattle, horses, mules, hogs and sheep, besides
beef, bacon, lard, butter and wool, Of the products of the forest, the west-
WESTERN VIRGINIA. 301
em counties furnish much the larger portion, consisting of gensang, fur,
peltries, venison hams, staves, limber, plank, and cord wood on the rivers
navigated with steamboats. The manufactories, although in their infancy,
yield considerable supplies to other States, in flour, salt, leather, and former*
ly of lead.
" Mountains are the mothers of minerals," and the country from the
B'.ue Ridge to the Ohio river, fully verifies the truth of the aphorism. Al-
though this district has as yet, but slightly attracted the notice of the scien-
tific mineralogist, many of these useful metals and fossils have been
discovered, and in some instances brought into extensive use. Iron is
found in abundance on the waters of the Potomac, Shenandoah, James,
Jackson and the Roanoke rivers, and at many places on the upper branches
of those streams, is manufactured to great extent, and with corresponding
advantage ; on New" river, or the Upper Kanawha and its tributaries, this
valuable mineral abounds, and of the best qualities ; it is also found in very
encouraging quantities and exhibiting line appearances, convenient to the
waters of the Great and Little Kanawhas, Monongahela, Elk, Gauley,
Guyandotte and Sandy rivers. The ores which have been discovered, pre-
sent almost every variety, but those apparently most abundant, are the com-
pact brown ore, the brown hematite, and specular ores.
The salt district of Virginia, passing west of the Alleghany range, and
nearly in a parallel course with those mountains, furnishes this important
article in greater or less abundance, in the counties of Harrison, Lewis,
Kanawha and Washington. In the two latter counties, however, are situ-
ated the principal manufactories ; that of Kanawha, supplying about one
million and a half of bushels per annum, and the Washington works about
100,000. An analysis of the Kanawha water, gives 35 mur. of lime — 2
car. of iron — 1 free car. acid — 56 chloride of sodium and bromide of cal-
cium — and 956 moisture.
The water used in the manufactory of salt in the county of Washing-
ton, contains less of the muriate, and more of the sulphate of lime, and a
larger portion of the chloride of sodium. Lead of considerable quantities
was long since discovered in the county of Wythe, and was formerly much
used in commerce, but owing to the expensive land carriage which had to
be encountered in conveying it to market, and to the opening lead mines
more favorably situated on the Mississippi, those of Wythe have in a great
measure fallen into disuse.
Extensive beds of exifrangible gypsum are found on the upper branches
of the Holston, but are comparatively useless from the want of convenient
and cheap lines of transportation ; and the same remark applies to the
quarries of very superior buhr stone, situated near Christiansburgh, in the
county of Montgomery.
The coal formation of the western part of Virginia, is limited on the
Kentucky border, to the country lying between the Cumberland range, and
the Ohio river — extending to the northeast, the coal district spreads from
the Ohio, as far eastwardly as the neighborhood of Wesrernport on the
Potomac. Throughout this entire tract of country, bituminous coal pre-
sents itself in great abundance, in beds varying in thickness, from a few
inches to 12 and 15 feet; attended every where by micacious sand-stone,
conglomerate rocks, and clay slate, the latter abounding in vegetable im-
pressions. At the salt wells on the Great Kanawha, as well as at many
natural springs within the coal region, naptha is found floating on the sur*
302 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF
face of the water in considerable quantities. Anthracite Coal, to which
Pennsylvania is indebted for the rapid extension of many ol her important
manufactories, as well as the great enlargement of her interior commerce,
has been recently discovered in the counties of Berkley and Morgan.
Still more recent researches have ascertained the existence of this valuable
mineral, apparently in extensive bodies, in the counties of Rockingham
and Augusta, from which it is probable that the great Valley of Vir-
ginia will ere long- become as celebrated for the extent of its manufactories
as it is now proverbial for its large agricultural products.
As this district undergoes more thorough examination, and its mineral
resources become further developed, it will probably disclose as extensive
masses of iron and coal in the same vicinities, as now distinguish South
Wales ; and although the bituminous coal may contain more volatile matter,
and less charcoal, than the Welch furnace coal, the value of the tar and
pitch which it will yield, may more than compensate for the comparative
deficiency of carbon.
â– No quarter of the world presents a greater variety of mineral Avaters,
than this portion of Virginia. Medicinal springs are almost as numerous
as the counties, but it will suffice to notice those which have attracted the
greatest share of public consideration, and which receive annually the
greatest number of visitors. In the large limestone valley immediately
west of the Blue Ridge, are the Berkley and Morgan springs, the Shenan-
doah springs, the Augusta springs, and the Botetourt springs. They are
usually attended by a respectable number of visitors, and the medicinal
effects of the waters have given some reputation to each of those fountains.
The county of Bath is distinguished by the Warm and Hot springs, situ-
ated within five miles of each other, and upon the principal road leading
east and west, through Virginia, the great bath at the Warm Springs is
universally admired by all who have enjoyed the luxury of its tepid and
buoyant waters.
This copious fountain of hydrosulphurous water, rises within the walls
of the bath, and preserves a uniform temperature of 96° of Fr. The baths
of the Hot springs differ in temperature, from 51° to 107°. and belong to
the thermal saline class. These fountains may be justly placed at the
head of the thermal waters of the United States, and from their use, the
happiest effects have been produced in cases of chronic rheumatism and
hepatic affections of long standing.
In the adjoining counties of Greenbrier and Monroe, aie situated the
White Sulphur, the Salt Sulphur, and the Red Sulphur Springs ; they are
classed as cold hydrosulphurous waters; the first is peculiarly distinguish-
ed for efficacy in cases familiarly denominated bilious and liver complaints ;
the second for the removal of dyspepsia, and all affections of the stomach,
whether connected with the state of the liver or not : the third has a high
reputation from the peculiar influence which its waters exercise over pul-
monary affections.
The Sweet Springs are also in the county of Monroe, near the eastern
base of the Alleghany. This founta.-h, like the Berkley springs, is cold,
acidulous or carborated, and yields a copious stream of the temperature of
73° of Fr. The Sweet springs have acquired a fashionable and well
merited celebrity ; the water is believed to be particularly serviceable m
the variety of the dyspepsia, accompanied by gastrodynia or spasm. In
secondary debility of the digestive canal, from"the exhausting heats of sum-
WESTERN VIRGINIA. 303
mer, or in chronic diarrhea or dysentery, without fever, or- not sustained
hepatic inflammation, the internal use of these waters have produced the
happiest effects. These highly valuable fountains of health are so con-
veniently situated as to enable the visitors to alternate their use, with great
advantage and satisfaction ; and the several proprietors have so extended
their means of accommodating company, and added so many comforts and
beauties to their respective establishments, that they are now annually at-
tended by a large concourse of fashionable people from the valley of the
Mississippi, and from the middle and southern States, as well as by inva-
lids from almost every quarter of the Union. A Spring on Muddy
creek, in Greenbrier county, heretofore visited by but few persons, as the
accommodations have been very limited, is beginning to attract much pub-
lic interest from the highly salutary influence which the waters have pro-
duced in aggravated cases of scrofula. The favorable results experienced
by persons suffering under this afflicting and inscrutable disease, induced
a number of gentlemen in 1833, to unite in the purchase and improvement
of the property; and measures are now in progress for erecting extensive
and convenient buildings, and for giving to this spring as many attractions
as are found at the most fashionable medicinal fountains.
Many natural curiosities of an interesting character are to be found be-
tween the Blue Ridge and the Ohio. Those most known are Weyer's
and Madison's Caves, near the Shenandoah river, and about two miles from
Port Republic. These wonderful caverns are both subterranean openings
in the same limestone hill. The first has been explored to the distance of
900 yards, and the latter has been penetrated to the depth of 120 yards.
Madison's cave has been much disfigured by the manufacture of salt-
petre, to which it was for some time appropriated. Weyer's cave is how-
ever in a fine state of preservation ; the entrance is narrow, but the cavern
enlarges as it advances under the hill, until some of the apartments present
an extent of floor equal to 300 by 200 feet, with majestic ceiling springing
to the height of 80 and 90 feet. The drippings of this cave are not suf-
ficient to affect the lights which are necessary to its examination, or to in-
commode the visitors. The deposits of lime dissolved in the water, forms
stalactites of almost every shape, and of every variety of beauty — curtains
descending in wave-like folds from the ceiling to the floor — plain and
fluted columns — colonades, various resemblances of household furniture,
and marble statues, which require but little imagination to give them fair
proportions, and the habiliments of the ancient Romans, are among the
pleasing objects with which the sight of the visitor is regaled ; the colors
are for the most part white, but sometimes red, and occasionally variegated.
When illuminated, the cave presents one of the most magnificent scenes in
nature. There are two other caves in this limestone district that are as yet
but little known, but are said to be equal if not superior in beauty and
magnificence to Weyer's cave. One of these is called Allen's Cave — the
other is near the top of a small mountain called Cave Hill, situated one
mile west of Luray, (county seat of Page.) Allen's cave is situated in
Shenandoah county, a short distance from Front Royal. Descriptions of
these caves will be fcmnd in the counties in which they are located.
The Natural Bridge over Cedar Creek, in the county of Rockbridge,
which rises 270 feet ; the Natural Tunnel, in Scott county, and the grand
and majestic scenery at and around Harper's Ferry, attract visiters from
considerable distances. The Blowing cave, near the Cow Pasture river,
304 GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF
which constantly sends forth a strong current of air; and the ebbing and
flowing, or Syphon spring, on the estate of the late Capt. John Lewis, in
the same valley, are objects of examination with most of the investigating
travellers who visit that part of the State. On the low grounds of the
Great Kanawha, about seven miles above Charleston, are several fissures
in the earth through which constant streams of carburetted hydrogen gas
are discharged. These are called burning springs, as the earth is so de-
pressed around them as to collect and retain the water in ordinary seasons,
and which is kept in active ebulition by the gas which is discharged
through it ; when inflamed, this gas burns with a pale blaze at the surface
of the water, when it mixes with the atmosphere, until it is extinguished
by a strong current of air. This is by no means a rare production of
nature in this district, as considerable issues of it are found on Big Sandy,
and Little Kanawha rivers, and in boring for salt water on the Great Ka-
nawha, the discharges of carbureted hydrogen have been so great and con-
tinued, as to compel in one instance, the abandonment of the work.
That part of the Great Kanawha which is above the mouth of Gauley,
having to search its intricate way, and force its passage through a chain of
lofty and rugged mountains, exhibits a series of the most stupendous cliffs
from the mouth of Greenbrier to Gauley river, particularly where Gauley
mountain is riven to its base by this stream in its passage to the Ohio ; at
this point, and near the great western turnpike, those cliffs present them-
selves frequently to the eye of the traveller in majestic grandeur. One of
the most lofty and perpendicular was formerly designated by a hawk's nest
on its side, but is now called " Marshall's Pillar," commemorative of the
laborious and perilous voyage of the Chief Justice in his examination of
this river in 1812. From the flat rock forming the summit, to the agitated
waters below, the view is fearfully grand : few of the many who visit it,
can look over this dizzy height but in a reclining position ; the elevation is
estimated by engineers at from 750 to 800 feet, but no actual admeasure-
ment has yet been made.
The sparse population of many parts of the country, has heretofore pro-
duced its usual effects in relation to education ; schools however have been
annually multiplying, and with the aid afforded by the literary fund, pri-
mary instruction is generally diffused, and becoming more elevated in its
range. Well organized academies are established in many of the coun-
ties, and those of Frederick, Augusta, Washington, Greenbrier, Kanawha,
and Harrison, particularly deserve notice. Washington College in Rock-
bridge, justly ranks among the most useful and distinguished of the south-
ern seminaries. It received a most serviceable addition to its funds by a
devise from Gen'l George Washington, which was folio wed by a be-
quest of a large estate from Mr. John Robinson, one of its early patrons,
and more recently a donation of the funds of the Cincinnati society of
Virginia. Thus liberally founded, and supplied with able professors,
this institution contributes largely to the learning and intelligence of the
country.
Commercial roads and navigable canals are greatly wanted. As yet the
government of Virginia has comparatively done but little towards improv-
ing the rivers and roads of this district. Among the works constructed
under the direction of the State, is the James and Kanawha turnpike,
leading from Covington to the town of Guyandotte on the Ohio, and to
the mouth of Big Sandy river. This road passes by, or near, the principal
WESTERN VIRGINIA, 305
mineral springs west of the Alleghany; the work is approaching comple-
tion on the western end, and its extension is in progress eastward by the
Hot and Warm Springs to the town of Staunton in Augusta. Incomplete
as the work is, this road forms one of the most important avenues of inter-
course between the eastern and western waters ; it is much used in ordi-
nary travelling, and in the transportation of property; and at this time
daily lines of stage coaches find full* employment upon the route. They
are connected in the conveyance of passengers with the steam boats of the
Ohio, and those of the James and Potomac rivers. On the western end,
even this provision for the accommodation of passengers has been found
insufficient, and a tri-weekly line has been added between the Ohio river
and the White Sulphur Springs, during the visiting season. Under the
direction, and with the funds of the State, a like road has been located from
Winchester to Parkersburgh, on the Ohio, which when finished will con-
fer important advantages on the northwest counties.
To a joint stock company aided by the State, the Valley of Virginia
has been much indebted for the improvement of the navigation of Shenan-
doah river. The work undertaken by the company has been so far com-
pleted, as to draw to that river an accession of trade which has increased
the tolls from $604 in 1827 to $7,691 in 1831 — continuing to improve
with each succeeding year. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, although
passing up on the north side of the Potomac, confers important advantages
on the northern border of the State, and will as it advances westward still
further invigorate and extend the agricultural industry, and enlarge the
commercial operations of the Virginia countips within its influence.