an allowance of winter temperature equal to 6 degrees of Fahrenheit may
be made between the extremes of this valley on the same latitude.
Kanawha, Great, river. North Carolina and Virginia, has the most
remote source in Ashe county of the former, between the Blue Ridge and
main Appalachian chain, there known by the name of Iron mountain ; the
two higher branches, after draining the northern part of Ashe, unite near
the boundary between North Carolina and Virginia, and continuing their
original course to the N. E. by N., enters Grayson county of the lat-
ter state, breaks through the Iron mountain between Grayson and Wythe ;
winds over the latter and Montgomery; thence inflecting to the N. N. W.
traverses Walker's and Peter's mountains. Below the latter chain, the
course of N. N. W. is continued to the mouth of Gauley river having re-
ceived also from the northeast Greenbrier.
Above Gauley river, the main volume of Kanawha is called New river ;
but receiving the Gauley, and turning to N. W., this now large stream,
known as the Great Kanawha, is still farther augmented from the north by
Elk river, and from the south by Coal river, falls into Ohio river at Point
Pleasant, after a comparative course of 280 miles, 100 above Walker's
mountain, 100 from the pass through Walker's mountain to the mouth of
Gauley river, and 80 from the mouth of Gauley to the Ohio.
The higher branches of New river have interlocking sources with those
of Catawba and Yadkin on the S. E., and with those of Watauga and Hou-
ston to the northwest. Below the Iron mountains the interlocking souces are
with those of Clinch and Sandy to the west, those of Roanoke to the east, and
those of James river N. E., as far down as the gorge of Peter's mountain,
westward of the latter pass. Greenbrier, coming in from the north has its
sources in the same region with those of the Potomac on the northeast, and
With those of the Monongahela to the northward. The valley of Kanawha
OF VIRGINIA. 45
proper, below Gauley river, lies generally between the valley of Guyandotte
on the S. W., and that of Little Kanawha N. E., though the sources of Elk
river, also reach the vicinity of those of Monongahela.
The entire valley of Great Kanawha, including that of New river, extends
lat. 36° 15' in Ashe county, North Carolina, to 38° 52' at the junction of
Kanawha and Ohio, and in long. 2° 43' at the higher source of Greenbrier,
to 5° 08' west of Washington city. The length of this valley from the
Blue Ridge between Patrick and Montgomery counties, Virginia, in a
N. W. direction is 180 miles, the utmost breadth from the sources of New
river, to those of Greenbrier is 18*0, but the mean width is about 60, and the
area may be stated at 10,800 square miles.
The most remarkable feature in the valley of the Great Kanawha, as a
physical section, is relative height. At the mouth of Sinking creek, between
Walker's and Peter's mountains, 120 miles by comparative courses below
the sources, the water level is 1,585 feet above the Atlantic tides; at the
mouth of Greenbrier 1,333, and at the mouth into Ohio 525 feet. Compar-
ing the fall from Sinking creek to the mouth of Greenbrier 252 feet in
30 miles direct, that above Sinking creek must be 900 feet at least, conse-
quently, the higher branches of New river, in Ashe county, must rise at a
comparative height of upwards of 2,500 feet.
Little Kanawha, rises in Lewis county, and flowing N. W. by W., en-
ters Wood, and falls into the Ohio, at Parkersburg, after a comparative
course of 90 miles. The valley of this river is nearly commensurate with
Wood and- Lewis counties, and has that of Great Kanawha south, Middle
Island creek to the north, and that of Monongahela, N. E. is 150 yards
wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of ten miles only; perhaps its
northern branch called Junius' creek, which interlocks with the west fork
of Monongahela, may one day admit a shorter passage from the latter into
the Ohio.
Little river, of Montgomery county, rises in the western vallies of the
Blue Ridge, and flowing to the N. W., about 25 miles comparative course,
falls into New river, 12 miles S.. W. by W. Christiansburg.
Mattafony river has its extreme source on the eastern border of Orange
county, near the Rapid Ann, about 25 miles westward Fredericksburg, but
the most numerous of its creeks are in Spottsylvania. These unite within,
and traverse Caroline, and thence forming a boundary between King Wil-
liam and King and Queen, unite with the Pamunky, to form York river,
after a comparative southeastern course of ten miles. The valley of the
Mattapony lies between those of the Rappahannock and Pamunky, and is
traversed by N. lat. 38° and the meridian of Washington.
Matchapungo Inlet, on the coast of the Atlantic, between Hog and
Prout Islands, Northampton county. It opens into a sheet or small gulf,
called Broad Water, 28 miles N. N. E. cape Charles, lat. 37° 20'.
Meherin river, of Virginia and North Carolina, deriving its most remote
sources from Charlotte, but rising principally in Lunenburg and Mecklen-
burg counties, and uniting on the western margin of Brunswick. Contin-
uing its original course S. E. by E. over Brunswick and Greenville, and
thence seperating a part of Greenville from Southampton, it enters North
Carolina, between Northampton and Gates counties, and joins the Nottaway
to form the Chowan, between Gates and Hertford counties. The entire
comparative course of the Meherin is about 95 miles, but the valley is nar-
row, not exceeding 20 miles width at any part, (mean width hardly 10,) area
46 GENERAL DESCRIPTION
about 900 square miles, lying between the vallies of Roanoke and Nottaway.
Monongahela river, in Virginia, Maryland and Pennsylvania, is formed
by Monongahela proper, Tygart's Valley river, Cheat river, and the Yough-
ioghany. The Cheat is in fact the main stream, having its remote source
in the southern part of Randolph county, Virginia, at lat. 38° 27', interlock-
ing sources with those of Green river, and Jackson's branch of James river.
The remote sources of Tygart's Valley river, are nearly as far south as those,
of Cheat, and also in Randolph county. The mountain ridge from which
both streams rise is known locally as Greenbrier mountain, and the valleys
from which the higher sources are derived, must be at least 2,500 feet eleva-
ted above tide water in Chesapeake bay.
Monongahela proper, is the western branch, rising in Lewis county, Vir-
ginia, with interlocking sources with those of Tygart's Valley and little
Kanawha. The three branches near their sources, pursue a general nor-
thern course, but the two western, gradually approach each other, and
unite at lat. 39° 28', where they form a point of seperation between Harrison
and Monono-alia counties. Thence assuming a northern course over the
latter county, finally leave Virginia, and form a junction with Cheat on the
boundary between Fayette and Green counties, Pennsylvania.
The Cheat in the highest part of its course, flows along a mountain valley,
in a northern direction, but gradually inclining to northwestward, as already
noticed under the head of Cheat river. Below the junction of the main
branches, the Monongahela, by a rather circuitous channel, pursues a gener-
al northern course over Pennsylvania, about 50 miles, comparative length to
its junction with Youghioghany, 11 miles S. E. of Pittsburg.
The Youghioghany is a considerable branch, having its remote sources
in the western part of Alleghany county, Maryland. Flowing thence
northwardly, enters Pennsylvania, and separating for some few miles, So-
merset, from Fayette county, receives a large tributary from the eastward,
Casselman's river, and turning to N. N. W. about 50 miles, comparative
course, is lost in the Monongahela at MacKeesport. Augmented by the
Youghioghany, the Monongahela below the junction, assumes the course of
the former, 18 miles by the channel, but only 1 1 direct distance to Pittsburg,
where it unites with the Alleghany to form the Ohio. The general course
of the Monongahela is almost exactly north, and almost as exactly along
long. 3° W. Washington, 150 miles by comparative distance. The widest
part of its valley lies nearly along the line between Pennsylvania and Vir-
ginia, 80 miles; the mean width 40, and area 6,000 square miles.
If we allow only 1,500 feet elevation to the arable country on the head
branches of Cheat, Pittsburg being elevated 678 feet, will give a descent of
822 feet to the valley of Monongahela. The extremes of lat. are thus almost
exactly compensated by declivity, and explain why the seasons near Pittsburg
and in Randolph county, Virginia, differ but slightly.
Though the two eastern branches, Cheat and Youghioghany, rise in
mountain vallies, and the whole country drained by all the tributaries of Mon-
ongahela is very broken and rocky, direct falls are rare and of no great ele-
vation when they occur. Cheat river, is navigable through Monongalia
and Preston, into Randolph county; both branches of Monongahela proper,
above their junction, and Youghioghany to Ohio, have falls. The whole val-
ley has gained recent increase of importance as being part of the route or
Toutes of proposed lines of canal improvement.
Monongahela river is 400 yards wide at its mouth; at the mouth of the
OF VIRGINIA. 47
Youghioghaney 12 or 15 miles higher up, his 300 yards wide ; and continues
of that width to the mouth of Cheat river, a distance of 90 miles by water,
but only 58 by land. In this space the navigation is frequently interrupted
by rapids, but are passable by boats when the river rises a few feet. From
that point it admits light boats, except in dry seasons 65 miles further, to the
head of Tygart's valley, — presenting only some falls of a few feet, and lessen-
ing in width to 20 yards. The western fork is navigable in winter 10 or 15
miles, towards the northern branch of the Little Kanawha, to which a good
wagon road might be made. The Youghioghany is the principal branch of
this river. This branch passes through the Laurel mountain about 300
miles from its mouth, and is that far, from 300 to 150 yards wide, and the
navigation much obstructed in dry weather by rapids and shoals. In its
passage through the mountain the fall is very great, admitting no naviga-
tion for ten miles to the Turkey Foot. Thence to the great crossing, about
20 miles, it is again navigable, except in dry seasons, and is at that place 20
yards wide. The sources of this river are divided from those of the Poto-
mac by the Alleghany mountain. From the falls at which it intercepts the
Laurel mountian to Fort Cumberland, the head of navigation on the Potomac is
40 miles of very mountaneous road. Willis' creek, at the mouth of which
was Fort Cumberland, is 30 or 40 yards wide, but beyond that, there is no
navigation.
Nansemond river risesin Isle of Wight and Nansemond counties,
but chiefly in the latter. Il opens by a comparatively wide bay into Hamp-
ton Roads, and is navigable for vessels of 250 tons to Sleepy Hole, for those
of 100, to Suffolk, the county town of Nansemond, and for those of 25 tons
to Milner's.
Nottoway river, of Virginia and North Carolina, has its most remote
source in Prince Edward county. Flowing thence S. S. E. between Not-
taway and Lunenburg counties, between Dinwiddie and Brunswick, turns
to eastward between Greensville and the western part of Sussex. Entering
the latter, and first curving northward winds to S. E., and traversing Sussex
and Southampton counties, receives Blackwater river from the north, and
entering Gates county, North Carolina, bends to S. W. 10 miles to its junc-
tion with Meherin, to form Chowan river. The entire length of Nottaway
by comparative courses is 110 miles. The Nottoway valley is about 100
miles, by 20 mean width, comprising great part of Nottaway, Dinwiddie,
Sussex, Surry, and Southampton counties, and a smaller part of Lunenburg,
Brunswick, Greensville, Prince George, Isle of Wight, and Nansemond
counties, and a minor part of Gates county, North Carolina.
Occoquan river rises in Loudon, Fairfax, and Fauquier counties, tra-
verses and drains the western part of Prince William county, and thence
forming the boundary between Prince William and Fairfax counties, falls
into the Potomac, about 25 miles below Washington City, and nearly oppo-
site Indian Point. [See Prince William county.]
Ohio forms the boundary of Virginia for 355 miles. It is in some re-
spects the most remarkable river upon earth. The physical section of the
earth drained by it lies between lat. 34° 12' and 42° 27*, and long. 1° and
12° west of Washington City. The course of the Ohio proper, from the
sources of Alleghany to its junction with the Mississippi, is by calculation
59° 30' west, 680 statute miles.
The form of the valley of the Ohio approaches, in a very remarkable
manner, that of a regular ellipse, of which a line drawn from its most north-
48 GENERAL DESCRIPTION
ern to its most southern sources, from Orleans creek, Cataraugus county,
New York, to Bear Grass creek, Marion county, Alabama, 750 statute
miles, — would be the transverse diameter, and another line extending from
the Blue Ridge, where the sources of the Great Kanawha and those of
Watauga branch of Tennessee rise, to the northwestern sources of the Wa-
bash, 450 miles, would be the congugate axis. Measured by the rhombs
following the elements in the following table, the area comes out more than
200,000 square miles:
Table of the extent in square miles of the valley of Ohio river:
square miles.
8,986
- 25,655
29,205
32,700
32,250
- 32,742
29,488
9,085
Between
lat.
34°
and 35°
Ol
4f
Rhom
(<
35
36
u 2
do.
(c
36
37
n
do.
<(
37
38
8|
do.
ii
38
39
8*
do.
it
39
40
81
do.
t*
40
41
8
do.
II
41
42
2^
do.
Aggregate extent in square miles,, - 200, 1 1 1
Allowing the greatest length to be 750 miles, the mean width will be 267
very nearly, or the mean breadth amounts to within a trifling fraction of
one-third of the greatest length, a compactness seldom equalled in rivers.
If the Alleghany is regarded as the primary and remote constituent of
Ohio, this great stream rises by numerous creeks in McKean and Potter
counties, Pennsylvania, and Alleghany and Cataraugus counties, New York.
Becoming navigable near the line of demarcation between the two states,
the stream, with partial windings, pursues the general course already stated,
to its junction with the Mississippi, affording a natural navigable channel of
between 1,200 and 1,300 miles. The opposing inclined plains of Ohio val-
ley are of unequal extent, nearly in the proportion of two to three, the larger
falling from the Appalachian system of mountains, and containing 120,000
square miles.
In their features also the two Ohio plains differ essentially. The south-
eastern, declining from a mountainous outline, has a comparatively rapid
slope. The most elevated table land from which the eastern tributaries flow,
is that where rise the sources of Clinch, Holston, and Great Kanawha,
about 2,500 feet. The Appalachian table land declines in relative elevation
both to north and south of this nucleus, but there is no one part from the
sources of Alleghany and Genesee to those of Tennessee and Coosa, through
7° of lat. but which exceeds 1,000 feet.
The elevation of Ohio at Pittsburg, where the Alleghany and Mononga-
hela unite, is 678 feet, and that of the low water at the confluence of Ohio
and Mississippi 283 feet: of course the Ohio below Pittsburg, has a fall of
395 feet in 948 miles, the length of the intermediate channel. The left tri-
butaries must have, from the preceding data, a descent of from 1,000 to
2,200 feet. Down this rapid declivity, advancing from north to south, are
found the streams of Clarion, Kiskiminitas, Monongahela, Great Kanawha,
Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland and Tennessee, and several of lesser length
of course, whose sources do not reach the Appalachian vallies.
It may well excite surprise, that along this steep plain, direct falls are not
frequent; and where they do occur are of moderate direct pitch.
OF VIRGINIA. 49
To an eye sufficiently elevated, and powers of vision sufficiently enlarged,
the whole valley of Ohio would appear one immense declivity, falling- very
nearly at right angles to the general range of the Appalachian system, and
the rivers would appear to have cut deep channels seldom in a direction cor-
responding to the plane of general descent.
Of these channels that of Ohio would appear as the principal. Per-
sons competent have carefully measured the height of the hills, in the vicinity
of Pittsburg, and found them about 460 feet above the low water level of the
rivers, or 1,138 feet above the level of the Atlantic tides. Above Pittsburg
to the hills, which rise like mountains from lake Erie, the ascent is at least
400 feet, and below Pittsburg the fall to the Mississippi has been shown to
be 395 feet. Without therefore estimating mountain ridges, the great in-
clined plain of Ohio has a descent of upwards of a foot to the statute mile,
but what is something remarkable, the rivers, and particularly the Ohio it-
self, do not fall gradually with the planes of their courses. The actual
channel from Pittsburg to the mouth is 948 statute miles, and the fall 4,7 1G
inches, or not quite five inches per mile.
The waters in effect have abraded their channels, deeper toward their
sources than in proportion to length of course. It is this circumstance
which has contributed to give to the Ohio proper, the appearance of flowing
in a deep and immense ravine. The difference of climate arising from dif-
ference of level, frequently exceeding a degree of latitude in less than a mile,
and radiated heat, with an exuberant alluvial soil, giving in spring a preco-
cious vegetation along the river bank, have superinduced great misunder-
standing respecting the temperature and seasons of this region.
Descending the Ohio, say from Pittsburg, the scenery along the banks
and hills, is in an eminent degree picturesque and varied, but these fine fea-
tures imperceptibly fade away, and long before reaching the Mississippi, to-
tally disappear, and leave a narrow horizontal ring sweeping round the
heavens, formed by the trees along the banks.
As a navigable channel, few, if any other rivers of the globe, equal the
Ohio. In the higher part of its course, the navigation is annually more or
less impeded in winter by ice, and in autumn by a want of water. Impedi-
ment from ice prevails in all its course, but below the influx of Kanawha,
drought is of less injury, and below the rapids at Louisville, in a com-
mercial point of view, removed by a navigable canal.
The four most important of all mineral productions abound in the Ohio
valley, limestone, mineral coal, salt, and iron ore. Of all continuous bodies
of productive soil on earth, if climate and fertility are combined, the valley
of Ohio will, it is probable, sustain the most dense population. Not long
since there did not exist upon its immense surface 20,000 civilized human
beings. In 1831, it sustained about 3,000,000. Can the history of the
world afford any parallel to such increase?
Pamunkey river, the principal constituent of York river, is formed by
Pamunky proper and North Anna. The latter rises in Orange, the nor-
thern part of Louisa and in Spottsylvania counties, and flowing thence
southeastward unites with the Pamunkey, between Caroline aiid Hanover
counties.
The Pamunky rises in the S. W. mountain, on the border between Al-
bemarle and Louisa; drains the southern and central part of Louisa, and
traversing Hanover, joins the North Anna. Below their junction, the uni-
ted waters, known by the name of Pamunky, preserve the original course
7
50 GENERAL DESCRIPTION
southeastward, about 45 miles comparative course, (but perhaps double
that distance by the bends,) to its junction with Mattapony to form York
river. The entire comparative length of Pamunkey, by either branch, is
about 90 miles. The broadest part of the valley but little exceeds 30 miles,
and is only about 15 mean width, area 1,300 square miles, lying between
those of James and Chickahominy on the right, and Mattopony on the
left. •
Pig river, rises in the southeastern slope of the Blue Ridge, and
flowing thence eastward, between Black water and Irvine rivers, traverses
and drains the central part of Franklin county, and entering Pittsylvania,
turns to E. and falls into Roanoke, after a comparative course of 35
miles.
Pocatalico. — This river has its sources near the northern boundary of
the county of Kanawha, and flows through a body of forest land finely tim-
bered: much of it fertile, and sufficiently level for advantageous cultivation.
The alluvial lands on its borders, are generally rich, and of width suffi-
cient to form good farms. Pocatilico discharges itself into the Great
Kanawha, 20 miles below Charleston, and forty miles above the mouth of
the latter river; it is navigable by batteaux, which ascend from 20 to 30 miles,
and during the winter and spring months, large and heavy loaded boats
may descend with safety, as also rafts of timber of various descriptions.
Extensive beds of rich bituminous coal, are found near the Pocatalico, and
its branches, and iron ores apparently of good quality, are often dug out of
the hills.
Potomac river, of Virginia,. Maryland and Pennsylvania. This river
above Blue Ridge, is formed by the north branch, distinctively called Poto-
mac, Patterson's river, South Branch, Cacapon, Back creek, Opequhan and
Sheandoah, from the southwestward, and by a series of bold, though com-
paratively small streams from the northward. The stream to which the
name of Potomoc is first applied, rises in the Alleghany chain, opposite to
the sources of Cheat and Youghioghany branches of Monongahela, at lat.
39° 10' long, from Washington city, 2° 30' W. Flowing thence N. E. 30
miles, receives from the north, Savage river, and bending to S. E. 10 miles,
traverses one or two minor chains of mountains, and returning to N. E. 18
miles to the influx of Will's creek, from the north at Cumberland. Now a
considerable stream, by a very tortuous channel, but direct distance 15
miles to S. E., the Potomac below Cumberland, breaks through several
chains of mountains to the influx of South Branch. The latter is in length
of course, and area drained, the main branch. The various sources of this
mountain river originate in Pendleton county,' Virginia, lat. 38° 25', be-
tween the Alleghany and Kittatinny chains. Assuming a general course
of N. E., the branches unite in Hardy county, near Moorfields, below
which, in a distance comparative course of 40 miles to its union with the N.
Branch, the South Branch receives no considerable tributary. The volume
formed by both branches, breaks through a mountain chain immediately be-
low their junction, and bending to N. E. by comparative distance of 25
miles, but by a very winding channel reaches its extreme northern point at
Hancock's town, lat. 39° 41', and within less than two miles south of the
southern boundary of Pennsylvania. Passing Hancock's town the Potomac
again inflects to S. E., and as above winds by a very crooked channel, but
by comparative course of 35 miles to the influx of Shenandoah from the
southward.
OF VIRGINIA. . 51
Shenandoah is the longest branch of Potomac, having a comparative
length of 130 miles, and brings down a volume of water but little inferior
to that of the main stream. It has its most remote sources in Augusta
county, Virginia, interlocks sources with those of Great Calf Pasture
branch of James river, and by Blue Ridge, is separated from those of Rivan-
na, as far south aslat. 37° 55', almost exactly due west of the eutrance of Po-
tomac into Chesapeake bay. The elongated valley of Shenandoah is part
of the great mountain valley of Kittatinny, and comprises nearly all the
counties of Augusta, Rockingham, Page and Shenandoah, with the eastern
sections of Frederick and Jefferson. The upper valley of Potomac, inclu-
ding that of Shenandoah is in length from S. W. to N. E. 160 miles, where
broadest 75 miles, but has a mean breadth of 50 miles, area 8,000
square miles. The water level of Potomac at Harper's Ferry is 288 feet
above tide water ; therefore we may assume at 350 feet the lowest arable
land in the valley above the Blue Ridge. This is equivalent to a degree
<t}f latitude on the aerial temperature at the lowest point of depression. So