and 1 tailor's shop. A physician re-
sides here,
Lebanon Forge, situated on the
North fork of James river. These
iron works, owned by Messrs. Ma-
thews fy Bryan, are now in extensive
operation, manufacturing pig metal
into bar iron. The establishment con-
sists of a forge, with a smith's shop
and saw mill as appendages. The
apparatus employed consists of three
refining fires, one chafry which draws
bar iron, and two forge hammers,
weighing from five to six hundred
weight each. The average amount
manufactured at this forge, from the
metal, or pigs, is one hundred and fif-
ty tons of bar iron annually. It re-
quires 225 tons of metal, or pigs, to
make 150 tons of bar iron. The
number of operatives necessarily em-
ployed at this establishment, in manu-
facturing the iron, are 35, and the ag-
gregate number of persons supported
by it are 70. Ten hands are employ-
ed in making the iron, 2 in the black-
smith's shop, 1 sawyer, 4 colliers, 8
wood cutters, 2 wood carriers, I wa-
goner, 5 farmers, i clerk and mana
ger, and 1 overseer, the balance being
women and children; — out of the 35
actively employed, 8 have families.—
In the vicinity of this forge is a house
of public worship, (Methodist,) and 1
manufacturing flour mill. One mile
below this establishment is located
Maburrtf s Iron Works, employing
the same number of operatives as the
one above, the same quantity of ma-
chinery, and manufacturing the same
weight of bar iron annually. The
country around is rich, and abounds
with iron ore of the first quality.
LEXINGTON, P. T. and Seat of
Justice, 156 ms. N. W. of R. and 198
from W. in lat. 37° 14' N. and long.
2° 21' W. of W. C— situated on a
gentle ascent, a few rods from the
north bank of the North river, a
branch of James river, 10 miles above
its junction, and 35 N. W. of Lynch-
burg. The act of Assembly of 1778 r
which authorised the formation of the
county, also directed the location of
this town. Its buildings, like those
of all new towns, were constructed of
wood. In 1794 they were nearly all
destroyed by fire, — since that time,
they have been erected of more dura-
ble materials, and with more regard
to regularity. The number of houses
it now contains, besides the ordinary
county buildings, are about 150, most-
ly of brick, with 2 houses of public
worship, (1 Presbyterian and I Metho-
dist.) There are 8 mercantile stores,.
4 taverns, I book store, 1 printing of-
fice, from which a weekly paper is
issued, 2 tinplate works, 2 watch ma-
kers and silversmiths, 3 hatters, 2 wa-
gon makers, 2 tanyards. 5 saddlers, 5
boot and shoe factories, 2 blacksmiths,
2 cabinet makers, 4 house carpenters
and 1 bricklayer.
Lexington was formerly the great
thoroughfare to the west, from the
more eastern parts of Virginia, and
though other more direct routes have
been established, it still continues to
be much travelled, by wagons from
Tennessee to Baltimore, &c. laden
with such articles, as will return
an ample profit, besides defraying
the expenses of transportation, &c.
WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE.
427
such as beeswax, tallow, feathers, and
other articles of produce. These wa-
gons return laden with goods for the
western merchants.
In the vicinity of Lexington is a
state arsenal, in which are deposited
about 30,000 stand of arms, guarded
by a Captain and 30 men.
An Academy was incorporated in
this town in 1782, under the name of
Liberty Hall Academy; and in 1812
it was chartered as a college, called
Washington College, from Gene-
ral Washington, who endowed it with
100 shares in the James river canal,
which produced, in 1821, an annual
income of $2,400. "This donation
constitutes the only part of its funds
that are now productive, and may be
estimated at $25,000. Its other funds
consist also of donations, one devised
by a private citizen of Lexington, es-
timated at 850,000, when relieved
from certain debts of the testator, and
another from the Cincinnati Society
of Virginia, on their voluntary disso-
lution, amounting to $15,000, but not
yet drawn out of the hands in which
it was deposited; making in all $90,-
000." There are two buildings of
brick, which afford accommodations
for 50 or 60 students; and a library
of 1,500 volumes. It is pleasantly
situated; its expenses for education
are not high; but its students have
nevei been very numerous. — Number
in 1833, 46.
A large, handsome and capacious
brick building has lately been erected,
intended for the philosophical appa-
ratus, &c. which are sufficiently am-
ple. The faculty consists of a presi-
dent, two profess 3rs, and a tutor.
Ann Smith Academy is also lo-
cated in this town for the education of
young ladies. It occupies a large and
handsome edifice, in which are teach-
ers of all the requisite branches of
such an institution. There are three
public libraries in this town.
Papulation not given in the tabular
returns of the last census, but supposed
to be about 900 persons ; of whom 9 are
attorneys, and 4 regular physicians.
County Courts are held on the
Monday before the 1st Tuesday in
every month; — Quarterly in March,
June, August and November.
Circuit Superior Courts of Law and
Chancery are held on the 16th of A-
pril and September, by Judge Thomp-
son.
Natural Bridge, P. O. 172 ms.
S. W. of R. and 21 3 S. W. by W. of
W. — situated in the southern part of
the county, in lat. 37° 33' N. and long.
2° 34' W. of W. C.
We present a faithful description of
this extraordinary natural curiosity
from the notes of a traveller, published
not long since in the periodical press.
" By the uniform admission of all
those who have visited this great natu-
ral curiosity, it has justly acquired a
celebrity unequalled by any other in
this country, and the increasing num-
ber of visiters to this place, still con-
tinues to awaken the attention of the
curious and philosophic throughout
ihe world. Its location is in the coun-
ty of Rockbridge, to which it gives
name, 15 miles from Lexington, and
45 from Lynchburg, through one of
which places it is usually approached
by strangers. The mean height of
the bridge, from the stream running
underneath it to its upper surface, is
215 feet 6 inches, its average width is
80 feet, its length, measured across
from the indentations on either side of
the high and nearly perpendicular
rocks upon which it rests, is 93 feet,
and its thickness, on both sides, is 55
feet.
The stupendous arch constituting
the bridge is of lime stone lock, co-
vered to the depth of from 4 to 6 feet
with alluvial and clayey earth, and
based upon huge rocks of the same
geological character, the summits of
which are 90 feet, and their bases 50
feet asunder, and whose rugged sides
form the wild and awful chasm span-
ned by the bridge. The bridge is
428
WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE.
guarded, as if by the design of nature,
by a parapet of rocks, and by trees
and shrubbery, firmly embedded in
the soil, so that a person travelling
the stage road running over ii, would,
if not informed of the curiosity, pass
it unnoticed. It is also worthy of re-
mark, that the creation of a natural
bridge at this place has contributed,
in a singular manner, to the conve-
nience of man, inasmuch as the deep
ravine over which it sweeps, and
through which traverses the beautiful
"Cedar Creek," is not, otherwise,
easily passed for several miles, either
above or below the bridge; and, con-
sequently, the road running from north
over him, and a wild delirium seizes
his senses, and he unconsciously re-
•m)s from the unfathomable gloom,
d the awful gulf below him ! Has-
aning from the sret he becomes con-
scious only of the irresistible influ-
ence of the mind over the body, on
recognizing himself removed from
the scene of danger, still he is haunt-
ed by the ideas to which the scene has
given birth, and which, resting unwil-
lingly upon his mind, often lash his
feelings into agonies!
Such are, indeed, the perceptions
and reflections of those of lively sen-
sibility and active cautiousness, who,
for the first time, visit this wonderful
to south with an aclivity of 35 degrees, and magnificent scenery; yet there
presents the same appearance in soil, i are those who view it with apparent
growth of trees and general charac- insensibility and unconsciousness, and
ter, with that of the neighboring scene-
ry. The bridge is not to be seen,
therefore, in its native grandeur and
sublimity by passing over or around
it, but only from a position nearly un-
der it, or within the valley near by.
The first view commonly obtained
by strangers of the bridge, or iis conti-
guous scenery, is by an eager approach
to the edge of the bridge, or to the brink
of the right of it, &. looking over into the
gulf below. Here language is inca-
pable of expressing the emotions with
which the scene is viewed, nor is it
possible for the imagination to sketch
the scene in a manner to equal the re-
ality. The spectator becomes sudden-
ly and forcibly impressed with the
apparent danger of his situation, and
trembling with fear, he involuntary
shrinks back and crouches to the
earth. As he approaches the brink
of the precipice, his eye is attracted to
the broad mass of perpendicular rock
upon the opposite side of the chasm,
and as he nears the jutting crags and
throws the sight along down the wild
and rugged sides, now boldly opposed
to his view, — straining with anxious
gaze to find a resting place, still per-
ceiving no termination to the yawn-
ing abyss, a shuddering horror comes
who steadily look down into the abyss,
"yet never suffer joint to tremble."
This view of "the great natural
curiosity" however, is but partial, and
even yet, incapable of calling up those
ideas of sublimity and greatness which
are afforded the spectator by another
position. Turning around the elevat-
ed ground north of the bridge, and
coming gradually along to its south-
ern base, then winding around an
abrupt point of the hill, the anxious
spectator is brought into a foot path
declining along the rocks, beside the
cliff on the one side and the busy lit-
tle creek on the other, when, suddenly
looking upward, he beholds the splen-
did arch of the bridge in all its sub-
limity and natural grandeur. Here
indeed, does the astonished observer
find language too feeble to give utter-
ance to his impressions !
-"Fancy then;
Unequal fails beneath the task,
Ah ! what shall language doV
Mute astonishment succeeds the
emotions with which the stranger
had before been impressed, and now,
unconsciously fixed to the spot, he
gazes with wonder and admiration
upon the lofty arch, springing like a
WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE.
429
spirit over the tremendous gulf, and
throwing its massive sides and ethe-
rial summit high against the heavens.
No adequate idea of the "Natural
Bridge" is to be obtained from the
efforts of either the pencil or pen, and
though both have attempted a descrip-
tion, yet neither have approximated
reality. From this view, the beholder
is led to the comparison of natural ob-
jects with which he has been familiar,
and himself shrinks into insignifi-
cance when he becomes the subject.
Never was there a more fit place to
observe the littleness of man, and the
omnipotence of God! — No reflective
mind can, with such a scene present-
ed to its faculties, remain unimpressed
with its own nothingness, and unaf-
fected by feelings of adoration to the
Great Supreme. With this view of
the subject before him, and " looking
from nature up to nature's God," the
language of the poet would not ap-
pear to him inapt : —
In the vast and the minute we see
The unambitious footsteps of the God
"Who gives the lustre to an insect's wing,
And wheels his throne upon the rolling
world.
The relative position of the specta-
tor, at this time, and place, in regard
to the bridge and most of the stupen-
dous scenery connected with it, is de-
cidedly more favorable than any other.
Here within one grand view, is the
towering arch surmounted by high
trees, with vigorous foliage and sharp
projecting rocks, strongly implanted
in the soil. Here the whole of the
high, and apparently unsupported
mass, is cast boldly against the field
of deep blue sky, and thereby brought
out in vivid contrast and grand relief,
every object stands strongly pourtray-
ed upon the broad etherial canvass,
while the varied tints, the sweeping
dashes of natural shades, the coarse
masses of deep black, with the occa-
sional brushes of strong lights, all are
masse, the most magnificent and fin-
ished picture that ever came from the
hand of nature.
-Who can paint
Like nature'? Can imitation boast,
Amidst his gay creation, hues like tiers'?
Here too, on either side, the pre-
cipitous cliffs rise up in portentous
grandeur with
Pendant rocks that nod into the world,
And mock our eyes with air.
The observer, anxious to gel a view
of the whole of this rude and roman-
tic scenery, naturally traverses the ra-
vine, yet fearfully overawed by the
impending rocks, he feels in momen-
tary danger of being ground to dust
by the falling of projecting rocks, but
which, though held apparently by
feeble tenure, have maintained their
places for ages. On looking up from,
under the bridge, the fear of destruc-
tion from the overhanging mass be-:
comes almost irresistible, yet the
grandeur of the arch induces suffi-
cient curiosity to forego the apparent
danger. The bridge here presents its
most imposing appearance, though its
character is less sublime from the na=.
ture of the position. The beholder.'
is here more forcibly struck with awe
and terror than from any other situa-
tion in which it is viewed. The ex-
pansive dimensions, the grand over-
sweeping continuity, and the ponder-
ous massiveness of the entire rock are
here forcibly displayed to the wonder-
ing gaze. Here also, running up be-
side you to the very arch, are the
craggy abutments upon which it rests,
presenting altogether, the hugest body
of continuous rock ever at one time
thrown open to view.
Speculation is naturally put in ope-
ration to account for the causes where-
by " with disruption vast," this rock
was cloven asunder. Although sci-
entific men may differ in many par-
well defined and deeply toned within ticulars upon this subject, and al-
the rugged outlines, compose, en though it is both more common and
430
WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE.
more easy to say that the whole is a
phenominon caused "by some great
convulsion," than to assign reasons
and determine causes for this phe-
nomenon, yet, it is thought, no one who
has investigated the causes most likely
to produce this result, and the evi-
dences which those causes have left
behind, of their existence and opera-
tion, will arrive at any other conclu-
sion than that the principle cause was
water. It will be observed that the
eastern or upper side of the bridge,
has been worn under for several feet,
that the part thus rounded, tunnel-like,
is smooth and unlike any other por-
tion of the contiguous rock, if we ex-
cept the indentation on the southern
side of the perpendicular rock, which
agency of water, there are in the
neighborhood of the bridge, numerous
and certain proofs of there having
been vast bodies of water which
poured down the surrounding vallies
and ravines, overtopping some of the
high hills, and embodying themselves,
at last, within this grand reservoir.
The magnificent and rocky sides of
this great depository, which is of
nearly uniform height for some two
or three miles above, directed the ac-
cumulated waters down against the
firm bridge. Here they are met with
this bold obstruction throwing itself
proudly athwart the rushing waters,
as if saying, in a spirit of defiance,
"thus far thou shalt come and no far-
ther!' Forced from its course by this
present similar appearances, evidently obstinate and haughty barrier, the
produced from the same cause. — overflowing current was turned
Viewing the course of the ravine, andj round the declivity on the south, and
the consequent direction of the water
which filled it, the indication of the
agency of water in the formation of
the bridge, is even more determinate
in the latter circumstance than in the
former. The projecting body of rock
upon the opposite side of the chasm,
running uniformly upward from its
base, and opposing an invulnerable
front, of sufficient magnitude to have
turned the current of the mighty wa-
ters, and to have thrown its force di-
rectly against those parts upon the
other side, where the peculiarities
before mentioned are seen, affords the
most natural proof of the influence of
water in the creation of the bridge.
Those who have observed the opera-
tion of water in the wearing away of
rocks, the large and deep pot holes,
the rounded and smooth surfaces
given to rocks, by the long and con-
tinued action of small stones, and the
friction of water, will here observe
similar appearances. The entire
mass of rock is of limestone, and
therefore more easily w r orn away than
silicious stone; whose more indurated
ran down the hill about the points of
rocks, and came again into the deep
valley some thirty rods below. Along
its diverted channel may be seen all
the evidences of a water course pour-
ing over a rocky bed.
The proudly opposing rock was
not destined, however, to stop forever
the march of the dashing stream, and
in process of time, the onward force
of the current, with the means which
it had brought to its aid, prevailed,
and increasing its force with every
advantage, the breach enlarged and
admitted, at length, the stream to roll
forward tor ages unresisted. Upon
the summit of distant hills are to be
found marine fossils, and their im-
pressions within the fragments of par-
tially decomposed limestone rocks,
while along their sides and within the
vallies are pot-holes ; smooth fissures
and rounded points of rocks, all of
which prove the existence and action
of water at these places at some period
of time ; the course and parallel of
these indications, are also directed to-
wards the great receptacle as before
surfaces have fretted for ages against intimated.
it. Besides these evidences of the 1 (The undulating surface of the sur-
WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKBRIDGE.
431
rounding country must have presented
from the bridge, when thus admitting
the varied streams to dash along its
vallies, one of the most splendid scenes
in nature )
The chasms, both east and west of
the bridge, do not afford strong evi-
dences of the continued action of wa-
ter, but rather of some violent rend-
ing of the massive rock. And this
may be rationally supposed, without
opposing the conclusions to which we
have arrived in regard to the agency
of water in the formation of the
bridge; yet even this is reconcileable
with the solution of this phenomenon,
by supposing portions of the rock to
have fallen, from time to time, by the
action of water within the fissures, or
to have been cleft off by objects car-
ried forcibly down the current of the
stream. The theory of an immense
cavern terminated at the bridge, and
opening from either side, is certainly
plausible, and does not militate against
that so manifestly true, in respect to
the bridge. The summit of this ca-
vern is supposed to have extended
along the ravine and high precipitous
rocks, for some distance, and even-
tually to have fallen down, by which
the deep chasm is laid open to view.
This is believed by some, at least,
whose judgment and scientific know-
ledge are entitled to the utmost re-
spect.
It may appear to the curious wor-
thy of remark, that in the centre of
the grand arch, under the bridge,
there is to be observed with outspread
wings, the American Eagle of gigan-
tic size, covering with one of its wings,
the head of the British Lion. These
objects certainly appeared plainly de-
lineated to the writer, as they have
ever appeared to all to whom they
have been pointed out. Others have
also discovered the head of Washing-
ton and various other objects, but
which it was not permitted to the ken
of the writer to discover.
These appearances are formed by
moss hanging from the high over-
hanging arch. To this arch it has
ever been the attempt of visiters to
throw a stone, and we recollect it to
have been stated, years gone by, that
the only successful competitor, in this
feat of physical power was General
Washington, who, it was also said,
cut his name higher than any other
person, upon the perpendicular rock.
It is, certainly, a feat requiring no
common degree of personal strength
to throw a stone to the bridge, and
few have been successful in the at-
tempt; though one individual is said
to have thrown upon the very sum-
mit, (probably with a sling,) from
whence the stone was taken at the
time. Names are to be seen "in eve-
ry variety" along the rocks and upon
the sides under the bridge, but that of
Washington is not now to be discov-
ered. A young man, it is said ambi-
tious to cut his name above that of
Washington, became so situated, up
the towering cliff, that he was unable
to recover himself or to descend : to
effect the one, he would inevitably in-
cur the certainty of being precipitated
to the bottom, while to climb still high-
er and gain the top, appeared impos-
sible. In this state of awful uncer-
tainty, between the possibility of life
and a dreadful death, little hope ap-
peared to the one, while the other
seemed certain, and urged by an ef-
fort as desperate as the love of life, he
attempted to ascend to the giddy
height. This alternative nerved him
with more than mortal power, and
strange as it may seem to every one
who may ever look at the spot from
whence he started, the shuddering
height at which he aimed, and the
apparent impossibilities he surmount-
ed, he arrived nervless and prostrate
at the verge, and — was safe.
Visiters to the " Natural Bridge of
Virginia," will ever find a rich and
varied field for observation: for, in
addition to the objects of curiosity
which have been enumerated and de-
432
WESTERN VIRGINIA— ROCKINGHAM.
scribed, " the overhanging rocks" and]
numerous other grand and interesting
objects up the valley and within the
neighborhood, there is " Powell's
mountain," upon which are found the
marine fossils before mentioned, and
within which are " Johnson's cave,"
affording an easy descent among a
variety of subterranean cavities, and
" Chapin's cave" of yet unfathomable
depth. And last, though not least,
among the objects of consideration
with visiters to these interesting and
romantic scenes, Mr. Johnson, the
gentlemanly and accommodating pro-
prietor of the public house at the
bridge, will afford every facility for
their observation and every means for
their enjoyment."
Panther's Gap, P. O. 195 ms.
S. W. ot W. and 154 from R. In
the vicinity of this post office, the
Blowing cave is situated. This nat-
ural curiosity is situated 12 ms. S. E.
of the Warm Springs, in the ridge
which divides the Cow and Calfpas-
ture. It is a large cavity in the side
of a hill, of about 6 feet in diameter,
and emits constantly a current of air.
This current is strongest in dry fros-
ty weather, and in long spells of rair
weakest. Regular inspirations and
expirations of air, by caverns and fis-
sures have been probably enough ac-
counted for, by supposing them com-
bined with intermitting fountains, as
they must of course inhale air, while
their reservoirs are emptying them-
selves, and again emit if while they
are filling. But a constant issue of
air, only varying in its force as the
weather is dryer or damper, will re-
quire a new hypothesis. There is
another Blowing cave in the Cum-
berland mountains, about a mile from
where it crosses the Carolina line, all
we know of this is, that it is not con-
stant, and that a fountain of water
issues from it.
ROCKINGHAM.
Rockingham was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and formed
from a portion of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Shenandoah, — N.
E. by Page, — E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Orange and
Albemarle, — S. by Augusta, — W. by the North mountain which separates
it from Pendleton, — and N. W. by Hardy. Its mean length is 34f miles,
mean breadth 24; and area 833 square miles. Its mean lat. is 37° 30' N.
and long. 1° 45' W. of W. C. The main Shenandoah runs through the
eastern portion of the county, — North river drains the southern part, —