leys are watered by the North and South Shenandoah rivers, the smaller
vallies by Cedar and Passage creeks. The land in the vallies is principal-
ly limestone, and is well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, rye, Indian
corn and oats, and is -divided into small farms. Its staple articles are flour,
bacon, beef, butter and iron. There are within it 34 manufacturing flour
mills, 2 furnaces and 4 forges, for the manufacturing of pig metal into bar;
iron, and another furnace and forge are now being erected. Its mineral re-
sources have been hut partially explored. Iron ore of the best quality
abounds, copper, lead, cobalt and copperas have been found, but not in sutr
ficient quantities to justify working them. There are several chalybeate
and sulphqr springs which are places of resort in the warm season.
The Valley of the Gooxey is situated in the eastern part of the
county, immediately at the western base of the Blue Ridge. It is bounded
on the S. by the Hog-back mountain, which is one of the highest summits
of the Blue Ridge, on, the E. by the Blue Ridge; on the N. and W. by
Dickey's hill and the Buck mountain, both of which, are spurs of the Blue
Ridge. It is about 7 miles in length and 4 in breadth. The face of this
section of country, is hilly and rugged, but the soil is sufficiently produc-
tive, and yields, when well cultivated, abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye,
<fcc. Clover and timothy thrive remarkably well on this soil, as plaster
acts with an astonishing effect. There is a great proportion of excellent
meadow land, there being scarcely a field that has not one or more streams
of water passing through it. Almost every farmer has a spring of excellent
mountain water near his door, and breathing a pure mountain atmosphere;
the inhabitants are extremely healthy and robust, having uniformly es-
caped those periodical diseases which have been so fatal in other sections of
Virginia. The principal stream is the Gooney, which is a creek of the
largest class. It rises near the top of the Hog back', and running a N. W
446 WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH.
course about 12 miles, empties into the South River about 5 miles, above
the town of Front Royal. It affords some fine situations for water-works,
and moves several merchant mi'ls and saw mills. The mountains, with
which it is surrounded, afford an inexhaustible supply of excellent timber.
There is a woollen factory, 1 common school, 2 churches (Methodist and
Baptist) and several extensive distilleries of grain, — whiskey, plank and flour
being the chief articles of export. This valley is thickly settled by a hardy,
fyonest and industrious people. From the top of the Blue Ridge, at Dade's
gap, nearly opposite the town of Washington, in the county of Rappahan-
nock, there is a magnificent view of the eastern part of the county of Shenan-
doah (now Page) and of the county of Rappahannock. Near this place there
is a remarkabJe rock called the Raven's Den. it having been occupied as the
aerie of that wild bird from time immemorial. It is entirely inaccessible to
man. Near Cheek's gap, Lann's run, a bold mountain current, a branch
of the Gooney, forms a most beautiful cascade, the water falling 60 or 70
feet perpendicular. There is another beautiful cascade near Milford, formed
by the stream which divides the counties of Shenandoah and Page; the wa-
ters of which fall about 100 feet at one perpendicular pitch.
The Fort Mountain. This name has been given to a range of moun-
tains in the county of Shenandoah, which are, in elevation, about equal to
the Blue Ridge. This range commences nearly opposite to the town of
Newmarket, at which place it is called the Massanutten mountain, and ex-
tends in a direction nearly from S. W. to N. E. or in a line coinciding with
the meanderings of the North branch of the Shenandoah river. Unlike
the Blue Ridge, which is extremely fertile, and the greater part of which is
susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation, this mountain is pre-
cipitous and rugged in the extreme, and is covered, for the most part, with
a thick growth of oak, pine, hickory, chesnut, &c. Its forests afford a
shelter for a great number of deer, bears, turkies and other game, with
which the mountain abounds. Nearly opposite the town of Luray in the
pounty of Page, its eastern base is washed by the South, and its western
\)2ise "by the North branch of the Shenandoah river. At this place the
mountain forks, and instead of one, there are two distinct mountains, stretch-
ing in the same direction, and running parallel to each other. These
mountains form what is termed the Fort. They have received the name
*- Fort Mountains," from the peculiar form of the valley which they enclose,
which, with the addition of some slight military fortifications might be ren-
dered impregnable. The only road which crosses this mountain is the one
which leads feom Luray to Woodstock, which is at the upper end of the
Fort, and which at the expense of much labor is kept passable for light
loaded carriages. The valley which is enclosed by these mountains, is
about 25 miles in length and about 3 in mean breadth. It is tolerably
fruitful in grass, corn, rye, buck-wheat, potatoes, turnips, &c. At the up-
per end of the Fort, rises Passage creek, a large and very rapid mountain
current, which works several fine merchant mills. Its whole length is
about 30 miles. The Fort is supposed to be extremely rich in mineral ores,
of which iron and copper are among its discovered mineral productions.
There are in the Fort, several common schools, 2 Meeting-houses, 3 grist
mills, 3 oil mills, a powder factory, several smith shops and a sufficient
number of mechanics. The population is about 700 souls. In making an
excavation for a well, a few weeks since, (Jan. 1834,) some fine specimens
of petrifaction were discovered at a considerable distance below ihe present
WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH. 447
surface of the earth. These petrifactions consist of toads, snakes, &c. in a
state of entire preservation. The East and West Fort mountains terminate
abruptly nearly opposite the town of Strasburg. The points opposite this
place are the highest parts of the mountain, being about 1200 feet above the
level of the river. The entrance or mouth of the Fort forms one of the most
awful defiles in America. The space between the mountains is barely wide
enough for a narrow road, which runs on the bank and sometimes in the
bed of the large and rapid creek which rushes impetuously over the rugged
surface of its channel. On each side of the road the mountain rises so per-
pendicularly as to be entirely inaccessible. The East Fort mountain espe-
cially exhibits the most magnificent scenery, and rock piled on rock, from
base to top, without a shrub to break the view, and bids defiance to the ap-
proaches of man. Here, in summer, may be seen great numbers of vul-
tures basking in the sun, or with expanded wings inhaling the cooling
breeze. In the caverns which are in this cliff, it is said these vultures re-
main in a torpid state during the winter. There are some of the finest land-
scape views from this mountain which can be imagined. At a point nearly
opposite Woodstock, from the East Fort mountain, the South river presents
the appearance of three distinct streams of water, crossing the valley from 1
the western base of the Blue Ridge, to the foot of the Fort mountain. If an
observer, station himself on the top of the East mountain, at the N. end, and
look "down east" the beautiful valley of the South river is presented full to
his view. The thrifty village of Front Royal with the adjacent country in-
terspersed with elegant country villas, fertile farms and thick forests alter-
nately meet the eye. If he look a little higher his horizon is bounded by
the indented top of the Blue Ridge, which stretches N. and S. as far as the
vision can extend; its surface from base to summit is beautifully diversified
with cultivated farms and sloping woodlands. If he look W. into the pro^
found abyss below him, he recoils with horror from the awful sight. If he
station himself on the N. end of the West mountain, he has a full view of
the valley of the North river. Strasburg, which is 4 miles distant, appeals
almost under his feet. At a distance of 7 miles, he sees Middletown, 5 miles
further he sees Newtown, and at a distance of 20 miles he sees the large and*
populous town of Winchester, — its stately dwellings and towering steeples
glittering in the sun. A great part of the county of Frederick is seen m
full perspective. But one of the finest landscapes in Virginia, and perhaps
in the world, is seen from a point on the West Fort mountain nearly oppo-
site Woodstock. Here, if the observer look towards " the far east," the
" blue brow" of the North mountain, which stretches N. and S. further than
the eye can view, appears to peep into the clouds and to tower above them,
many of which actually sail below its summit. The fertile valley which
lies between the North mountain and Woodstock, is seen so distinctly, that
a person who is acquainted with the country, may designate most of the
farms which are seen from this point, the view from which, extends over a
country about 15 miles in extent.
The town of Woodstock, which is about 5 miles distant, is seen so plain-
ly, that the observer may count almost every house in that beautiful village.
Between Woodstock and the mountain (Fort) lies the rich valley which is
watered by the North branch of the Shenandoah. The river in its mean-
derings approaches very near the mountain, and then retreats a considerable-
distance towards Woodstock, where after making a turn it suddenly returns
to the mountain without the bend at either place being perceived. Thus it
448
WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH.
alternately approaches the mountain and recedes from it, until it presents
the appearance of seven distinct rivers running parallel to each other.
The river at this place, is about 150 feet in width, and forms a beautiful
sheet of water which sparkles in the sun like a stream of silver. The space
which is enclosed by each bend of the river is, apparently about large
enough for a beautiful farmland the bottoms being abundantly fertile, the
whole scene presents on« of the most picturesque landscapes in the world.
Shenandoah is an Indian name, signifying clear water, and like most of the
Indian names is very appropriate, these rivers being remarkable for their
transparent waters. In 1831 part of this county which lies between the
Blue Ridge and the Massanutten mountain was taken off, and with a small
part of Rockingham county, formed into a new county called Page. When
the county was first settled, about the year 1735, its population was com-
posed principally of Irish and Scotch; but few of their descendants are now
found within it, as the county became more settled, they were supplanted by
Germans from Pennsylvania, — and the greater part of its population, now
consists of their descendants. They are a plain, frugal and industrious
people. A few years since the German language was very much spoken
and taught in the schools, but it is now rapidly giving place to the English,
w T hich is now universally taught in all the schools.
Population in 1820, 18,926— in 1830, 19,750. By the separation of
Page the population is reduced to 14,000. This county belongs to the Nth
judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $3,506 09 — in 1834,
on lots, $253 33— land, $2,479 68—984 slaves, $246 00—5,575 horses,
$334 50— 22 studs, $128 00—23 coaches, $53 00—27 carryalls, $27 00
-—16 gigs, $12 65. Total $3,534 16. Expended in educating poor chil-
dren in 1832, $1,512 16— in 1833, $827 29.
TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.
Allen's Cave. In the county ofjthe beholder is struck with the singu-
Shenandoah, a short distance from thejlar beauty and regularity of the mag-
town of Front Royal, is Allen's Cave, (nificent arch, which is composed of
which may with propriety, be styled Isolid lime. The cavity here is about
a great natural curiosity. It is situat-
ed on the right bank of the Shenan-
doah, about a quarter of a mile from
the river, in the side of a hill of con-
siderable elevation. The face of the
country in its vicinity, is romantic in
the extreme, being a thick forest oi
oak, pine and cedar, interspersed with
ledges and cliffs of limestone.
The entrance into this cavern is by
a gradual descent of about 45 °s The
mouth is about 5 feet in width and 15
in height. After proceeding about 60
feet, the explorer reaches what may
be termed the vestibule of this grand
work of nature, after which the floor
becomes comparatively level. Upon
looking back, towards the entrance.
10 feet in width and 30 in height
Proceeding some distance, it becomes
very narrow and so low, that it is ne-
cessary to sloop much in order to ad-
vance. Upon emerging from this
narrow defile, the admirer of the
works of nature, is presented with one
of the most magnificent scenes which
the fancy can imagine. He finds
himself ushered into a vast room, the
extent of which, from end to end, is
more than 150 feet, and of very con=
siderable width. The height of the
roof or ceiling, varies from 10 to 50
or 60 feet, forming some of the finest
arches that the eve ever beheld. The
ceiling and walls of this apartment,
which is called Sarah's salcon, are
WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH.
449
covered with sparry incrustations
which have been formed by the
drippings of the water from the roof.
In some places, they have the appear-
ance of pendant icicles ; in other places
they bear a strong resemblance to the
folds of drapery, and appear to hang
in festoons which art can neither ri-
val or imitate. In some places the
sparry stalactites resemble the most
beautiful sculpture, at one point pre-
senting the image of a magnificent
pillar or colossal statue, at another
the curved and wavy appearance of a
cataract in miniature. If a piece of
the spar be thrown into a crucible or
even into a hot coal fire, it fuses, and
becomes as transparent as glass.
It is, however, to be regretted, that
the most beautiful specimens of the
spar have been abstracted by the
numerous visiters; and that, the walls
and roof of Sarah's saloon, which
were once of the most glittering- trans-
parency, have been blackened by the
smoke of the pine torches, which have
been used in exploring it. Upon
leaving the saloon, it becomes neces-
sary to ascend about 12 or 15 feet
perpendicular, which is done by
means of a ladder, at the top of which
is a small room which is evidently
the highest and yet the closest apart-
ment in the cave, as the candles burn
less freely here, than in any other
part of the cavern. On speaking, or
•striking with the hand against the
wall the sound is increased to an as-
tonishing loudness. At the farther
extremity of this upper apartment is a
reservoir of water of a circular shape,
about 5 feet in diameter and 4 in depth,
called the Fairy's bath, and within a
few feet of the bath, is a small basin
called the Fairy's wash-bowl,— -both
formed in the solid rock and full of
water of the most limpid clearness.
After leaving this place, the passage
forks. That passage which leads
straight forward, passes through some
small rooms and narrow defiles, until
it reaches a large apartment, at the
57
extremity of the cavern. This cham-
ber which is called the Sylph's dress-
ing-room, is about the size of the sa-
loon, with a lofty ceiling of sparry
concretions, — once clear as crystal —
now rendered dingy by the smoke.
It has several outlets, too small to ad-
mit the body of a man ; but it is pro-
bable that if they were enlarged, they
might lead to other rooms in this sub-
terraneous abode, which it is possible
and even probable, may extend to the
river. Near the Fairy's bath, is a
narrow passage, which turns to the
right, called the labyrinth. After va-
rious mazes and intricate windings
under low arches, so contracted in
breadth as to admit only one person
abreast, the winding ceases, and the
explorer finds himself in a straight
passage, about 40 feet in length, 3 in
breadth, and 7 in height, and which,
without doubt, forms one of the most
beautiful, regular and symmetrical
arches in the world. Issuing from
this passage the explorer finds him*
self in the ball-room, which is decid-
edly the best room in the cave. The
length is 160 or 170 feet, and the
breadth at least 30 feet. Here, too,
as in the other rooms, the hands of
vandal visiters, have torn off the
beautiful spar from the wall, thus
having robbed the cave of its glitter*
ing ornaments, and deprived posteri-
ty in a measure, of one of the most
magnificent scenes that ever met the
eye of man. The floor is of soft clay
and remarkably level and smooth.
Here, before the invention of dandies,
tights,corsets,balloon sleeves, prunella
slippers, large combs and leghorn
flats, the beaux and belles of by^gone
days met, and held social parties, and
while " mingling in the giddy mazes
of the sprightly dance," the foot and
hand kept time with the clarionet and
violin: and the merry song, the wild
music, the free jest, the witty retort
and the hearty laugh, all telling of
enjoyment, reached the remotest
depths of this spacious grotto, — -while
450
WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH.
pleased echo caught the sound, and
reverberating from grotto to grotto,
told the deities of me place, of the
mirth and innocent amusement which
were to be found in the ball-room of
Allen's cave.
Even in these, our degenerate
days, the cave is still visited by hun-
dreds of persons who generally speak
in terms of the highest praise of the
wonders which they have seen in
this subterranean world. The ex-
tent of this cavern has never been!
ascertained — but it is supposed to be
about 1200 feet.
Cedar Creek, P. O. 162 miles
from R. and 83 from W.
Fortsmouth, P. O. 147 ms. fronv
R. and 83 W. of W. This village
is pleasantly situated in a narrow
valley, and in the fork of the North
and South branches of the Shenan-i
doah river, surrounded on the south |
and west by the Fort mountain. It
contains several dwelling houses, lj
manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw mill,
1 distillery, and various mechanics.
Population 30. There are in the im-
mediate vicinity two houses of public
worship, the one Baptist, and the oth-
er free for all denominations. It is
distant 25 ms. from Winchester and
18 from Woodstock. Fortsmouth
derives its name from Powell's Fort,
at the mouth of which it is located,
and which is a great natural curiosi-
ty, — the valley being formed by the
Massanutten mountain, springing up
on the west side of the Shenandoah
river, commencing between New
Market and Staunton, running - south
west and north east until it reaches a
short distant below New Market, — it
then breaks off into two mountains,
the one running down the North and
the other down the South branch of
the Shenandoah river. These two
mountains form Powell's Fort, which
receivesits name from an individual 1
who it is said was the first settler
within the' fort. This Fort, as it is
called, is thirty, miles in length, with
a fine stream running entirely thro'
it called Passage creek, on which
are situated many springs of pure
water at various distances.
Mount Hope, P. O. 144 ms. from
R. and 80 S. W. by W. of W.
Mount Jackson, P. O. 157 ms.
from R. and 113 W. of W. It con-
tains 8 dwelling houses, 1 Presby-
terian house of public worship, 1
common school, 1 mercantile store, 1
tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 smith shop, and
1 boot factory. The country around
is a little broken, the soil gray and
sandy, of ordinary quality, produc-
ing Indian corn, wheat and oats tol-
erably well.
Strasburg, P. O. 153 ms. from
R. and 89 W. of W., situated in the
northern part of the county, on the
North branch of the Shenandoah
river, immediately on the main Foad
leading from Woodstock to Winches-
ter, 12 ms. N. of the former and 18
S. of the latter. This is a healthy
and thriving village, containing 78
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public
worship, (1 Presbyterian, 1 Lutheran,
and 1 free for all denominations,) 3
schools, including an academy, (.a
handsome building with a valuable
lot of land attached, on which has
been erected out of the income an
excellent house as a residence for the
principal.) There are also 3 mer-
cantile stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2
taverns, 1 stone and 1 earthen ware
manufactory, 4 tanyards, 5 cabinet
makers, 1 turner, 4 blacksmith shops,
1 plasterer, 3 bricklayers, 2 gun
smiths, 5 tailors, 6 boot and shoe. fac-
tories, and 4 cooper shops. Popula-
tion 470 persons; of whom 6 are
regular physicians. The inhabitants
are principally Germans, of indus-
trious and economical habits.
New Market, P. V., delightfully
situated in the great valley of Vir-
ginia, between the Massanutten and
North mountains, 120 ms. W. by S.
of W. and 150 ms. N. W. of R, in
lat. 33° 36' 30" N. and long. 1° 37'
WESTERN VIRGINIA— SHENANDOAH.
451
W. from W. It is a central point
between the towns of Winchester
and Staunton, being 50 miles distant
from either place. The main road
leading from the counties of Pendle-
ton and Hardy, eastward across
Thornton's Gap in the direction of
Fredericksburg, intersects the great
valley road at this place. The town
was founded about the year 1784. It
is at this time three-fourths of a mile
in length, containing above one hun-
doah river runs within a mile of the
town on the western side; and is na-
vigable at high water for boats car-
rying one hundred barrels of flour
to the Plain Mills 2^ miles above the
town: but the navigation is some-
what hazardous, as the river. is pas-
sable for boats of this burden only
during a freshet. The Massanutten
mountain on the east of the town
presents a beautiful and unbroken
view to the eye of an observer, free
dred dwelling houses, with a popu- from any spurs, or secondary moun
lation of 700 persons. The streets
are remarkably level, straight and
well laid out, bearing south 25 west,
a direction nearly parallel with the
tains, to obstruct his sight, for many
miles in extent, presenting upon the
whole a spectacle highly grand and
picturesque. There is a cascade on
Massanutten mountain and two miles! this mountain about 3^ miles from
distant from its base. There are 3
houses of public worship, viz. I Lu-
theran, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist, 1
large and commodious brick acade-
my, in which is taught all the
branches of liberal and polite educa-
tion, 1 book and job printing office,
5 stores, 3 taverns, 1 resident attor-
ney, and 4 regular physicians. —
There is perhaps no town in the state
the town, which as it appears not to
be embraced in any written account
of the State, deserves to be noticed. —
It presents the curious spectacle of a
beautiful sheet ef water falling from
the height of fifty feet perpendicular.
The large table rock over which the
water falls is so perfectly level and
smooth, that the water falls in an en-
tire and unbroken sheet of several
of the same size, where the mechani- yards in width, which it retains until
cal pursuits are carried on to a great-
er extent than in this. There are
here in active and extensive opera -
it strikes the bottom, sufficiently far,
from the perpendicular for a person
to pass conveniently between that
tion — 1 manufactory of threshing; and the sheet of water, without dan-
machines, &.c, 2 wheelwrights, 4!ger of getting wet. 'his failing
cabinet makers and house-joiners, 4
tanneries, 2 saddle and harness mak-
ing establishments, 2 chair factories,
4 boot and shoe manufactories, 3 hat
factories, I silversmith and jeweller,
1 coppersmith and tin plate worker,
2 gunsmiths, 2 blacksmiths, 1 lock-
smith, 1 sleymaker, 1 saddletree
maker, 1 diaper weaver, and 2 potte
sheet of water is so perfectly trans-
parent, that it may be seen for several
hundred yards, glistening thro' the
thick surrounding woods, presenting
a beautiful spectacle.
Among the rocks of this country
are the blue and grey limestone,
slates, sand-stone and burr-stone. —
The adjacent country is famed for its
ries, at one of which stone ware of a fertility, and is well adapted to the cul-
superior quality is manufactured, ture of wheat, rye, Indian corn, and
There are also in the vicinity 2 forges
for the manufactory of pig metal into
bar iron, both of which are at this
time in active operation. The coun-