Lachlan Shaw.

The history of the province of Moray. Comprising the counties of Elgin and Nairn, the greater part of the county of Inverness and a portion of the county of Banff,--all called the province of Moray before there was a division into counties online

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village about 1826. The Roman Catholics, being a nume-
rous body in the district, have a chapel, school, and
priest's house here. This inscription is over the front of
the chapel : —

Bene Fundata est Domus Dom. supra firmam petram.
Deo sub tutela B. Mariae Virginis et B. Michaelis Arch-
angeli dedicata 1837.

Translation. — The House of the Lord is well founded on a
firm rock. Dedicated in 1837 to God, under the protection of
the Blessed Virgin Mary, and the Blessed Archangel Michael.

The adjoining Cemetery contains several neat tomb-
stones. One of these, erected in 1843, presents some
orthographical peculiarities :

Trouble sore, I shm-ely bore,

Physicians was in vain,
Till God above, by his great love,

ReHeved me of my pain.

Adieu, dear friends, who laid me here,
Where I must lie till Christ appear,
And on that day I hope it'll be
A joyful rising into me.

I now return to the banks of Spey to describe


That is, the crooked plain, about which the
Spey windeth. There are three parishes united

VOL. I. 15


into one, viz., Advie, Cromdale, and Inverallen,
stretching on the east side of the river above
6 miles, and on the west side near to 12 miles in
length, and in the centre about 4 miles in breadth,
flanked to the east by Cromdale Hill, and to the
west by the hills of Brae-Moray.

The Clmrcli of Cromdale standeth on the
south-east bank of the river, 6 miles south-west
of Inveravon, 4 miles north-east of Abernethie,
and 6 miles E.N.E. of Duthel.

The three parishes (except a few mortgages)
are the property of the Laird of Grant.

In the lower end is the parish of Advie, con-
sisting of the baronies of Advie on the east, and
of Tulchen on the west side of the river. These,
anciently a part of the estate of the Earl of Fife,
came to the family of Ballendalach in the 15th
century, and continued their property till they
were sold to Brigadier Alexander Grant. Grant
of Advie was a branch of the family of Ballen-
dalach, and Grant of Dallay of Advie.

Next up the river on the east side is Dalvey,
which for several generations pertained to a
branch of the family of Ballendalach, and about
anno 1G80 Kobert of Dalvey purchased Dunlugas,
in the county of Banff, and sold Dalvey to James
Grant of Gartenbeg, who in 1C88 was created a
baronet ; and dying soon after the devolution,
and his brother Lewis dying about 1698, both
without legitimate issue, the lands of Dalvey (by


an agreement with the heir male) came to Patrick
Grant of Inverladenan, the chief of the Clan
Donachie, and now they are the property of the
Laird of Grant.

Farther up on that side of the river is the
barony of Cromdale. This (and I doubt not with
it Advie and Dalvey) was a part of the estate of
M'Duff, Earl of Fife, which, 22 June, 1389, Isabel
M'Duff, daughter and heir of Duncan, Earl of
Fife, resigned "ad pei'petuam remanentiam, in
the hands of King Eobert III. the baronies of
Strathurd, Strathbraan, Deasir, Toyer, with the
isle of Tay and Logyahrie, all in Perthshire ; the
barony of Coul and O'neil in Aberdeenshire ; the
baronies of Cromdale and Affyne (probably Advie)
in Inverness-shire ; the lands of Strathavie and
Abrondolie in Banffshire ; the barony of Calder
in Linlithgowshire ; and Kilsyth in Stirlingshire
(SJiene cle Verb, signif. Tit. Arage).'' This was
afterwards the property of Nairn, Baron of Crom-
dale, from whom Ludovick Grant of Grant pur-
chased it.

In Cromdale is Dellachaple, the seat of the
head of the Clan Chiaran ; Lethindie, the seat of
the ancient barons ; Burnside, the residence of
William Grant of the Clan Allan ; &c.

Near the Church is the passage-boat.

Over against Cromdale, and on the west side
of the river, is Achinarraw, where the Clan
Chiaran first seated.


Next is Dunan, the first seat of the Clan Allan;
and next thereto is the barony of Freuchie (z".e.,
heathery, so called from a hillock covered with
heath, near the House of Grant) or of Castle-
Grant. This (as also Achinarraw, Dunan, and
all the lands of Inveralan) was anciently a part
of the estate of Cumming, Lord Badenoch. Here
is the principal seat of the family of Grant. The
house is a grand building, environed with gardens,
inclosures, and much planting. The apartments
in the house are well finished, and there is a
valuable private library.

Two miles south the Church of Inveralan
standeth on the west bank of the river. In the
13th centmy, about 1230, this Church, and pro-
bably lauds about it, pertained to Walter Moray,
Baron of Petty and son of WiUiam, son of Freskyn
of Dufi"as. And anno 1236 King Alexander 11.
excambed with Andrew, Bishop of Moray, the
three Davachs of Fynlarg (near the Church of
Inveralan) for the forest of Cawood and Logyn-
sythenach in Brae-Moray.

In the upper end of the parish is Tullochgorum,
the seat of the chief of the Clan Phadrick for
near to 400 years.

North-west from Tullochgorum is Clourie, a
mortgage belonging to a branch of the House of

And north from Clomie is Muckerach, the first
possession of the Grants of Rothemurchus, where


they built a good house anno 1598, but no-w-
in ruins.


{^Situation, Soil, Climate. — Although a wing of the
county of Inverness might without design be stretched
farther down upon the south than upon the north bank
of the Spey, yet the disposition of the two counties in the
parish of Cromdale appears to be the result of contrivance,
merely arbitrary and political.

Cromdale originally was three unconnected parishes.
Inverallan, on the eastern border of Duthil, and on the
north bank of the Spej'", was parted but unequally between
both counties. Cromdale itself, within the jurisdiction of
Inverness, extends farther down on both banks of the
Spey ; below which, Advie, the third of the original
parishes, is continued to Knockando on the north, and to
Inveravon on the south bank of the river ; extending the
present parish of Cromdale to 9 miles in length on the
southern side of the river, and 18 upon the other. Its
greatest breadth is 10 miles, from Kirkmichael in the
county of Banff to the Castle and Lake of Lochnadorb, on
the bank of which the counties of Nairn, Inverness, and
Moray meet.

The soil is in general thin and dry, with the exception
of the plains on the banks of the river, which in natural
fertility are deemed equal to the fields along the shore of
the firth. The climate is allowed to be extremely whole-
some. While epidemical distempers are very rare, in-
stances of longevity as far as 90 years are many, and not
a few get beyond that extreme term of human existence.

State of Property. — The whole parish is the property
of Sir James Grant of Grant, Bart.

The valued rent of the district of Inverallan in the
county of Inverness is £474 6s. 8d. ; that of Cromdale in
the same county £949 14s. 6d. In Moi'ay the valuation
of Inverallan is £182 10s. lOd. ; and of Advie is £8G2 13s.;
extending the valuation of the whole parish to the sum
of £2,469 5s. Scots. The real rent at present may be
estimated about £2,000 sterling.

The family seat of Castle-Grant rises on an eminence
near the middle of the parish, on the north side of the


river. The body of the House is four storeys in height ;
its northern front makes 8 sides of a quadrangle, having
lower wings added to the length of the ojjposite sides.
The original front towards the south is also elegant,
though the workmanship of the 15th century. The
accommodation consists of 20 handsome bed-chambers,
exclusive of the public-rooms, the ground floor, the wings,
and garrets. The paintings in the dining-room, which is
a magnificent hall, 47 by 27 feet, and of a proportionable
height, are — a portrait of Charles I. and Queen Henrietta,
by Vandyke ; the Virgin presenting her infant Son in the
Temple, and offering her sacrifice ; the aged Simeon, elated
with the sight of his infant Lord, by Caracci ; a full
length of Magdalene, by Guide ; a half length also, copied
by Clark from Guercino; the marriage of Joseph and
Mary ; the adoration of the Wise Men of the East ; Henry
IV. of France taking leave of his Queen, by Rubens ;
Pygmalion and the Statue, by Poussin ; lluius at Rome,
by Sanini ; Head of Achilles, by Hamilton ; two large
landscapes; the landing of ^neas in Africa; Dido flying
with -^neas from the storm, by Plymor ; family portraits
by Kneller, West, Ramsay, Allan, and Miss Reid ; copies
of the portraits of Guercino, Caracci, Angelo, and Fordano,
by Clark at Rome ; Still Life, Basketmaker, and Milk-

The paintings in the drawing-room : — A half-length of
Magdalene, by Guido ; Venus mourning for Adonis, by
Guercino; the celebrated painting by Hamilton of Achilles
mourning over Patroclus, attended by Briseis, Chriseis,
and chiefs of Greece — the prints of this painting, which
are not uncommon, displa}' much of its expression ; copy
by Clark of the Baptism of Constantine, by Volteria;
eight small paintings in a frame, by Vandyke ; a pencil
drawling of Charles I. and his Queen, from Vandyke's
original ; a copy of Guercino's Persian Sibyl; Andromache
offering sacrifice to Hector's Shade, by Morison of Ros}-
bank ; the Saviour on the Cross; Monks in a Cave;
family })ortraits.

The i)aintings in the different bed-chambers : — Copy by
Clarke of Guercino's Apostle Peter; three sea-pieces by
Vandermere ; the Holy Famil}', by Paragino; two paint-
ings of the Civil Wars, by Burguiong; several ])ortraits
by Sir Peter Lely ; two landscapes by Ponfract ; Mars


and Vulcan, an Italian drawing; the Resurrection of
Lazarus ; Adam and Eve ; St. Veronica; the Judgment of
Paris ; Niobe and her Children.

In the hall are 80 portraits, by Watt, of gentlemen of
the name of Grant, most of them exhibiting a true like-
ness of the original.

In the stair-case are : — A lady dressing, by Titian ;
Danae receiving the Flower of Gold, by Corregio : Venus
and Adonis, by Clark, from Lucas Fardano ; An Encamp-
ment, by Bassau : a Highlander, a Piper, and an Old
Woman, by Watt.

The House commands a pretty extensive and pleasing
landscape. Southward the deep forest of Abernethy, its
broad dark -green plain encroaching on the dusky side of
the lofty Cairngorm, the pale rolling cloud seizing at
times its summit, equalling its peerless elevation with the
humbler hills, and the mountain anon discharging the
hovering vapour, in lingering detachments, resumes its
proud preeminence, and looks down upon its neighbours.
Spread eastward, lies the wide-bending cultivated plain
of Cromdale, its green level border illuminated by the
blue-rolling river ; and on the north and west, an irregu-
larl}^ curved range of hill displays upon its side the
verdant mantle of flourishing plantation. The park itself
is of great extent, diversified with the agreeable variety
of thicket, grove, and forest, corn field and meadow ; a
double line of tall trees extends a cool shade over a long
lane, by the lofty canopy of their intermingled foliage,
impervious to the summer sun and the slighter shower ;
the trim garden, the ornamented shrubbery, and several
pleasant ridings, may suggest a general idea of the
environs of this respectable Mansion, the extent of which
may be conceived by the compass occupied by the wood,,
nearly 4,000 acres.

About half the number of farms are rented at £7, £20,
or £25 sterling, exclusive of some late im})rovements, and
a few small lots for the accommodation of the labourers
about the castle. The other half rent at or above £50
sterling, managed in the most approved system : the
horses and cattle of a fine brood and figure, the imple-
ments of the best construction, and the buildings of the
most substantial masonry and commodious form.

At the distance of nearly two miles westward of the


Castle is the village of Grantown. The first house was
built in 1706, at that time in the midst of a prett}^ exten-
sive uncultivated moor. It is built upon leases of 190,
or ten nineteens of years, on an extent of 21 by 4G0
yards ; rent free for the first 5 years, and 5s. yearh' for
the succeeding 14 ; for the second period of 19 yeai-s, 10s.
yearly; growing to lis. 8d. during the third; and to 15s.
during the fourth ; and £1 thereafter for the duration of
the lease. The village, containing about 400 souls, is
regularly constructed — the street 50 feet broad, and the
great square 180 b}^ 700 feet in length, decorated by a
handsome town-house, for the accommodation of the
Justice of Peace and Baron Courts. A brewery was from
the first established, and a clause of the leases prohibits
the vending of spirituous liquors without the written
permission of the proprietor. A dozen of retail shops
increase the movement of business ; and weavers of wool,
flax, and stocking manufactures, tailors, shoemakers,
carpenters, masons, and blacksmiths, and two bakers, with
a regularly bred and skilful surgeon, complete the accom-
modation of a very populous country around. The land
improved about the village lots at 12s. the acre ; to which
the proprietor himself has added an extent of 60 acres in
its vicinity improved by one year's fallowing the moor,
and the manure of 60 bolls, or 240 firlots, of lime to each
acre. In the environs of the village there is a pretty
extensive bleachery, both of cloth and yarn, also a well
constructed flax-mill, the operations of both conducted at
present by a gentleman, a native of Ireland. The village
possesses every inland advantage in the midst of a great
and populous country ; store of peat-fuel, wood, lime,
slate, and stone, with the command of a stream of ex-
cellent water.

State Ecclesiastical. — The situation of the Church is
centrical, on the south bank of the Spey, in the wide
semicircular plain of Cromdalc, which, in the original,
expresses this situation ; it is a modern, neat, well-finished
building. The stipend, including the allowance for the
communion, C(pial to that of Duthel and Abernethy, is
£105. Part of the glebe, which still remains in what was
the parish of Advie, together with the part at the present
residence, might be let for nearly £9 of rent. The
patronage is tlio riglit <A' tlic family of Grant. Tlio salary


of the parochial school, which is near the Church, is
£11 2s. 3d. sterling, and the emoluments of the office of
session-clerk, about £4 sterling, besides the fees of educa-
tion. There is also a school established in Grantown,
which, exclusive of the fees from nearly 70 scholars, for
education in French, Latin, Writing, Arithmetic, and
reading English, is an appointment of £25 yearly, of
which £10 arises from a bequeathed endowment under
the care of the Presbytery, £10 by the Society for Chris-
tian Knowledge, and £5 the gratuity of Sir James Grant.
There is also in the village a private schoolmistress, where
girls and children receive the rudiments of their educa-
tion. Of late, also, an orphan Hospital has been established
in Grantown by a share of the fund bequeathed by the
late Lady Grant of Monymusk for the purposes of charity.
This fund was considerably diminished by a suit in
Chancery with the executors. One third part of this
bequeathment was, by her Ladyship's will, allocated for
Scotland : the object and the place to be appointed by
Dr. Gregory Grant of Edinburgh, without direction or
restraint. The capital for this Hospital amounts at
present to £5,000 stock in the 3 per cents, to which Sir
James Grant has added the sum of £150 sterling, and the
accommodation of a house equal to £12 of rent. The
plan of the Grantown Hospital is the same with that of
the orphan Hospital of Edinburgh ; none are admitted
under 7 nor continued after 14 years of age, and at
present the number is limited to 30. Besides reading,
writing, and arithmetic, the girls are taught sewing,
weaving, and knitting with wires ; and such trades as
can be conveniently carried on within doors are taught to
those of the boys who choose such employment. The
present establishment is a governess, with £10 sterling,
and 2 female servants ; and the youth attend the schools
in the village, till the fund can admit of a teacher in the

The contributions made in the Church for the poor
amount to £10 or £15 sterling; generally distributed to
SO individuals, though more are occasionally admitted to
a share of this provision. The whole inhalDitants are of
the National Church, amounting to 3,000 souls.

Miscellaneous Information. — The people are industri-
ous and of an obliging disposition. On public occasions


they are distinguished by the neatness of their attire;
the women are also noted among their neighbours for
cleanhness in their houses, and for the domestic manufac-
ture of webs of woollen cloth.

The only antiquity in the parish is the Fortalix at
Loehindorb, where a thick wall of mason work (20 feet
even at this period, and supposed to have been much
higher) surrounded an acre of land within the loch, with
watch-towers at every corner, all entire. The entrance
to the place is at a gate built of freestone, which has a
grandeur in it that is easier felt than expressed. Several
vestiges of houses are found within the walls, besides
those of a church, which, without difficulty, can still be
traced in the ruins. Great rafts or planks of oak, by the
beating of the waters against the old walls, occasionally
make their appearance, whicli confirms an opinion enter-
tained of this place that it had been a national business,
originall}" built upon an artificial island. Tradition says,
and some credit is due to the report, that the particular
account of this building was lost in the days of King
Edward I. of England. The herb peculiar to that island,
distinguished by the name of Loclmadorh /o«;7, appears to
be a mixture of red cabbage plants and common turnip,
sown probably by the last possessor and never reaped,
and since then degenerated through want of cultivation.
They spring up annually in a thick bed without culture ;
in some fxvoured situation the root of the turnip is found
almost of a pound weight, but, in general, the root is
similar to that of cabbage plants ; both are used as greens
at the tables of the country people, and transplanted also
into their gardens with the same view : when the}' run
to seed on the island, younii cattle arc ferried in to feed
on them.

The last battle in the revolutionary civil war, in 1690,
was fought on the plain of Cromdale.* Colonel Liviug-

* The Bottle on the Ilaiighs of Crowdalc- — By the death of
Claverhouse (Viscount Dundee) at Killiecrankie on July, 1 G89,
the cause of James II. became desperate. All his adherents
were scattered or capitulated, except a few headed l)y Sir Ewcn
Cameron of Lochiel, wlio trusted to tlie ai)i)roach of winter and
the inaccessibl*! nature of tlie mountains on the west coast, to
which they retired. When the spring of 1690 began to open
up, General Buchan was despatched with some 1500 men of the


ston, King William's general, defeated the forces of the
Viscount Dundee with considerable slaughter, and many
prisoners. It was, however, of little importance to the
State, and needs not a particular relation here ; it is cele-
brated in a well known Scots ballad ["The Haughs of
Cromdale,"] happily descriptive of the humours and
sentiments of the age.

The ancient name of Cromdale, sldi'-na luac, St. Luac's
division or parish, to whom also a well was dedicated ;
and Inverallan is derived from the influx of the stream of
Toperallan into the Spey, a well emitting a quantity of
water at once sufficient to turn the machinery of a
corn mill.

The names of many of the places in Strathspey are the
same with those in Stratheric, it being ascertained that

Clans Maclean, Macdonald, Macplierson, Cameron, and Grant
of Glenmorriston to lay waste the low country, and to divert
and annoy King William's troops. On their march they
plundered the inhabitants of Strathspey, and in Strathbogie
they burnt the House of Edinglassie. Sir Thomas Livingston,
who had been stationed at Inverness with a large force of
cavalry and infantry, resolved to intercept them before they
regained the interior of the country ; l)ut Buchan with his
clans, hearing of the approach, betook themselves to the
mountains. On the 1st of May, 1690, by dawn of day,
Livingston arrived with his troops at Derraid, near Castle
Grant, and ordered them to march into and through the woods
and come down the Valley of Auchinarron, and cross the Spey
at the ford below Dellachaple. On the 30th April, General
Buchan and his troops had arrived at Cromdale and encamped
at the farm of Lethendry, at the foot of the Hill of Cromdale,
near the old Kirk of Cromdale, about 3 miles eastward, whereon
Grantown now stands. Some of the outposts observing Living-
ston's troops fording the Spey at once gave the alarm, but the
dragoons were on them before those in the camp had time even
to put on their clothes. They hastened in confusion to the
Hill of Cromdale, where they contended valiantly but were at
last routed, leaving 400 slain and prisoners.

As regards the famous song in his Jacobite Relics Hogg says
that it is the Avorst specimen of the truth of Scottish song that
is to be met with, the Battle of Auldearn in 1645 and this one
in 1690 being jumbled together. However, "The Bonny
Haughs o' Cromdale " in rhythm and tune are imperishable.


the ancestors of the family of Grant were once the posses-
sors of that country on the banks of Loch Ness.] {Survey
of the Province of Moray.)


The burial-ground is surrounded by a substantial stone
dyke. The monuments are modern. One within an en-
closure, and in front of the kirk, exhibits a carving of
the Grant arms, with this inscription : —

I. Sacred to the memory of Mrs. Grant of Burnside,
daughter of George Macpherson, Esq., of Invereshie, who was
a sincere Christian, an affectionate wife, and a dutiful kind
parent, and was ever charitable and most amial)le. She de-
parted this life in 1835, in the 93rd year of her age.

The above refers to Jane, youngest daughter of Mr.
Macpherson, by Grace, daughter of Col. Grant, and ma-
ternal aunt to the first Baronet of Ballindalloch. The
father of INIrs. Grant's husband took part with Prince
Charles, and was present at the battle of Prestonpans.
He afterwards became a W.S., and died at Edinburgh in

The next inscription (abridged) refers to one of " The
Men," or those who believed that their knowledge of the
Scriptures was superior to that of their neighbours. (See
Epitaphs in Duthil Churchyard, p. 259).

II. La(;hlan Cameron, son of James Cameron, in Slienval
of Delvey, "a man of good understanding and given to hospi-
tahty," died 1783, aged 43.

The next four inscriptions are from monuments within
an enclosure : —

III. Sacred to the memory of Eor.ERT (!uaxt, Esq., of Kiii-
corth, son of Mr. David (hant and of ]\Iargarct (irant, his
wife, resitlenters in Lctlicndry in this parish, both of whom
are here interred, descended from the Clan Cliiarn branch of
the family of Grant ; an original member of the North West
Company in Canada. In Imsiness he gained respect and con-
fidence l)y honour and integrity. In all relations of private
life exemplary. Born 3rd March, 1752; died at Kincortli,
10th August, 1801. Also in affectionate rcnioud)raiice of
Mr.'^. AXN (!rant, relict of the above l^ohert (Jrant, who died
at Forres House, on the 19th of ]\hiy, 18G4, aged 95.


IV. In memory of Lewis Grant, Esq., sometime merchant
in Bombay, second, son of the late Robert Grant, Esq., of Kin-
corth; born at Kincorth, 12th Sept., 1801; died at the same
place, 17th February, 1854. An affectionate and dutiful son,
a most attached brother, an upright and amiable man. This
monument is erected to record his virtues, by his afflicted and
affectionate brothers.

V. In memory of Mrs. Robina Ann Grant, eldest daughter
of the late Robert Grant, Esq., of Kincorth, and wife of John
Peter Grant, Esq., residing at Invererne House, near Forres,
by whom this stone is erected to record his affection and
esteem. He died upon 11th Sept., 1850, aged 52 years. Her