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The Arrowhead magazine and guide book (Volume (Jan 1918)-(August 1918)) online

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Who could ever forget the peace and charm
of the lovely Onomea with its tiny double
bay and its wondrous archway in the tower-
ing, creeper-hung cliffs, or who could turn
away with anything but regret from any of
the numerous bays and inlets which are to
be found in frequent succession along the
coast? Should he be fortunate enough to
come provided with the usual recommen-
dations, he will find such hospitality as has
made the name of Hawaii famous the world
over for the spirit of aloha, the spirit of
cordial welcome and real affection.

The charm of Hilo will sink deeply into
his being and when he leaves it he will be
glad indeed to return to it again, for, ever
it draws the voyagers back again to its
dolce far niente atmosphere and its air of
perfect comfort combined with well-being.
The district of Kona transplants him at



once into another sphere. It would be dif-
ficult to particularize wherein lies its draw-
ing power, but it possesses what is prob-
ably the most equable and delightful climate
to be found anywhere in the world. This is
the great coffee-growing district, and the
winding roads are hedged on either side
with the delicate carmine and white berries
of the coffee trees. The main belt road,
upon which will be found home-like hotels,
is at an elevation of nearly fifteen hundred
feet above the sea, and commands a magni-
ficent panoramic view of the coast line and
the wide horizon. Kona is not only famous
for the extreme splendor of its sunsets, but
is filled from end to end with the relics of
old temples and cities of refuge. Here, too,,
in a beautiful bay is the monument marking
the spot where the great circumnavigator,.
Captain Cook, was killed by the natives in
1779, and, close by, on the summit of the
cliff, by the way, honeycombed with hun-
dreds of caves in which lie the remains of
the great chiefs and priests of many gen-
erations, will be found the great stone plat-
form upon which Cook's body was offered
and deified. Here again, stands the temple,
recently restored by the government of the
islands, in which he lives as the incarnation
of the Hawaiian god, Lono, and wherein
he was worshiped by the people with the
utmost awe and reverence.

Kailua, the city of the Hawaiian kings,
is not far away, and here still stands the
old royal palace on the shore, flanked by
the ruins of a once-formidable native fort.
Every foot of this country, too, is filled with
stirring tales of battles and adventure, and,
if only on this account, regardless of its-
scenic and climatic perfections, it claims
the attention of the tourist. There is an
old saying that the people of Kona never
die; they dry up and blow away. The truth
of this may be doubted, but certain it is
that few who sojourn there for more than
a week will ever wish to leave its delights.
Kona baffles description, but undoubtedly
has an extraordinary hold upon the visitor
whose pleasure inclines towards the beau-
tiful and the simple in life, rather than to
the garishness and hustle of the modern
tourist resort. He will find no brass bands
or "rubber-neck wagons" in Kona, but he
will find a wondrous peace combined with
warm and affectionate hospitality which will
never be erased from his memory. The
glorious sweep of the great mountain,
Mauna Loa, from its palm-fringed sea-
shore to the heights where it fades into the
sun-drenched mists which crown the sum-
mit, forms a picture which no artist has-
ever successfully mastered, while the
beauty of the dense tropical forest, where
every tree is hung with delicate blossoming
creepers and where there is grateful shade
through the warmer hours of the day, but
adds to the charm of this delightful section
of the island, and it is a curious fact that
it has only been discovered by the vistor
during the last few years. Kona, however,.



ARROWHEAD MAGAZINE



29



is rapidly coming into her own, and every-
thing is being done to enhance the pleasure
of those who visit it for the delight of rev-
eling in its beauties.

The district of Kohala provides an amaz-
ing contrast to that of Kona, for here are
found breezy uplands, great cattle ranches
and a climate with the tonic effect of dry
champagne. Much of the country lies at
an elevation of three thousand feet or more,
but the shores are tropical and full of
beauty. Here are the famous Ditch Trails
traversing mighty gorges where the trav-
eler in search of thrills may get them in
ample measure, and here, too, are many
great historical spots and temples infinitely
well worth visiting. As is the case all over
the island, the automobile roads are excel-
lent, and there are comfortable accommo-
dations in convenient locations. Kohala
may be said to be the most neglected por-
tion of the island from the tourist point of
view, but it certainly should not be so. The
view into the great Pololu Gulch from the
Ditch Trail alone should make it famous
the world over, and those who have leisure
time will find themselves richly repaid by a
stay of a few days. The completion of the
circuit of the island is made by a return
from Kohala through the sugar country on
the eastern coast. Very much could be



written about this section did space permit;
it should be seen by every vistor to Hawaii
and is being visited by constantly increas-
ing numbers year by year.

Perhaps enough has now been said to
prove that the island of Hawaii is not suffi-
ciently considered by the tourist in search
of novelty and supreme scenic beauty.
While each of the islands is totally differ-
ent from its fellows, it cannot be gainsaid
that the large island of Hawaii has righly
deserved its title of "The Scenic Isle." The
pleasure and comfort of its guests are
looked after by a powerful organization de-
voted entirely to that purpose; there is an
excellent steamer service, several times a
week from Honolulu and the other islands;
automobile and living expenses are ex-
tremely moderate, and while it is a land of
such contrasts that the visitor may stay in
a modern hotel, in daily touch with his of-
fice in New York or anywhere else in the
world by wireless and cable systems, and
yet be surrounded by the most primitive
native conditions, he will find that he is
not only made affectionately welcome, but
that no effort will be relaxed to add to the
unstinted pleasure which a stay of several
weeks' duration within its hospitable ter-
rain will undoubtedly afford him.




THE BEACHES NEAR HONOLULU ARE FAMOUS FOR AQUATIC SPORTS

(1) Waikiki Beach, Honolulu. (2) Hawaiian Outrigger Canoe, Hawaii. (3) Hawaiian

Fisherman, Hilo Harbor, Hawaii. (4) Outrigger Canoeing, Waikiki Beach



GAME FISHING IN HA^VAII



By H. GOODING FIELD,
Honorary Secretary, Hawaii Tuna Club; Honolulu



FROM an angler's standpoint, Hawaii
is a veritable Paradise, as its waters
teem with game fish of large size and
great variety; the fish are landed with rod
and reel all the year round. The climate
is equable, and there are no sudden changes
of temperature, no fogs, no disagreeable
cold snaps and no intense heat.

The fish of the Hawaiian Islands were
first officially recorded as early as 1782 by
Broussonet from specimens obtained dur-
ing Captain Cook's third voyage to the
Islands. In 1903, the United States Fish
Commission described nine hundred and
two species of fish belonging to the region
of the Hawaiian Islands, including a large
number of the giant mackerels, such as the
swordfish, tuna, oceanic bonito and alba-
core. With such available and authentic
records, it is surprising that Hawaii is only
now coming into its own as one of the
world's greatest game fish resorts.

Ancient Hawaiian Fisheries

From ancient times, the native Hawaiians
held the monopoly of the fishing in Hawaii,
and probably the most peculiar feature of



these fisheries, from an early period, was
the well-developed principle of private
ownership of the fishes found in the open
sea and bays within a prescribed distance
from shore. There are practically no fish-
ery rights in Hawaii at the present time
which affect game fishing.

The Tuna

The world renowned species of game fish
— the giant mackerels — such as the leaping
tuna (thunnus thynnus) ; long-fin tuna
(thunnus alalonga); and yellow-fin tuna
(thunnus macrapterus) are caught in large
numbers in Hawaiian waters. The blue
and yellow-fin tuna reach a large size
locally, single catches having been made
over three hundred pounds in weight. The
tuna are known by the Hawaiian generic
name Ahi.

The Swordfish

The swordfish (Xiphias gladius), weigh-
ing from three to seven hundred pounds,
is the a'u in the Hawaiian tongue. A
swordfish was killed off the Puna coast,




The Magnificent Fairmount Hotel, San Francisco



30




One of San Francisco's Famous Hostelries — The Palace Hotel



some two miles offshore on the Island of
Hawaii, by Japanese trolling from their
sampan with a hand line, which was cut
in three parts and taken aboard the boat,
which weighed over six hundred pounds,
the sword measuring five feet. About the
same time, a large-sized swordfish was
hooked with a nine-ounce rod by one of
the local anglers, off Pepeekeo, Hawaii, but
the fish got away with rod and tackle
after striking.

On February 3rd, 1916, a swordfish was
sold in the Honolulu fishmarket which
weighed seven hundred and thirty-five
pounds, and whose tail measured fifty-
three inches across. These fish usually
travel in pairs, and are often seen close
inshore in deep waters; they greatly re-
semble the tarpon for spectacular play after
striking, making a succession of leaps in
the air after they have taken the bait.

The Oceanic Benito

The oceanic bonito (gymnosarda pelanis)
are very plentiful in local waters; these
fish are known by the Hawaiian names of
aku and kawakawa respectively.

The California Bonito

In the 1903 United States Fish Commis-
sion Bulletin on the Aquatic Resources of
the Hawaiian Islands (page 175), referring
to the California bonito (sarda chelensis),



it is stated that "a specimen about two feet
long recently received from Honolulu be-
long without doubt to this species." A
single catch of over two hundred of these
fish was quite recently made in the Alaka-
hiki Channel, between the Islands of Maui
and Kahoolawe. The bonito is often called
the humming bird of fishes, being quick as
a flash in the water, and with its many-
hued and brilliant coat and markings, is a
thing of rare beauty. They swim in schools
of large numbers, and are one of the most
highly prized of game fish.
The Albacore

The albacore (which in other waters is
sometimes classed as the leaping tuna) is
a common fish in Hawaii, and is known
by the native terms ahi and ahi-pa-laha.
The Dolphin

Dr. Holder, in his "Fishes of the Pacific
Coast," mentions that the dolphin is a fish
among the very rare catches, and, so far
as known, taken with rod and reel nowhere
else than in the channel islands of Cali-
fornia. The scientific name for this game
fish is coryphaena hipporus, and the Ha-
waiian terms mahimahi and mahihi. In the
1903 United States Fish Commission Bulle-
tin, the measurement of several dolphin
taken in Hawaiian waters are given. These
fish are numerous in local waters, and can
be landed any month of the year offshore



31



32



ARROWHEAD MAGAZINE



in deep water with a regulation nine-
ounce rod and nine-thread line. Numerous
catches of dolphin from four to five feet
in length with this tackle have been re-
corded by the Hawaii Tuna Club this year.
The dolphin is remarkable for its brilliant
and changeable colors: the color of the fish
in life is a dazzling silver, with yellow,
green and brown spots on the lower parts.
After death, only faint indications of the
former colorings remain. They are ex-
ceedingly fast swimmers, keeping to the
surface after striking, and are a very game
fish, fighting to the finish. Were it gen-
erall)' known to game fishermen on the
mainland that the dolphin is so plentiful in
Hawaiian waters, and can be caugh: vith
light rod and tackle, there would be an
exodus of anglers to Hawaii for this game
fish alone.

The Tarpon

In the United States Fish Commission
Bulletin, above referred to (page 54), under
the heading of the family Elopidas — the
tarpons — numerous specimens were exam-
ined in Honolulu. The Commissioners state
that "this is one of the greatest of game
fish, in the estimation of the anglers who
have had the good fortune to fi.sh for it on
the coast of Florida, and wnll doubtless
prove one of the most interesting ol Ha-
waiian fisnes to sportsmen who visit these
islands."

The Ono

The ono (acanthocybium solandri) is of
a steel-blue color, and closely resembles
the markings of the swordfish. This very
large mackerel-like fish was said by the
ancient Hawaiians to be the parent of the
opelu (mackerel). It is a cross between




The Metropolitan Meat Murl.-i t, Honolulu

the giant mackerels and the swordfish, and
is particularly abundant in the deep-water
channels off the island of Molokini, Aluai.
The ono is a fierce fighter, and its rushes
after striking are wonderful; it is not un-
usual for eight hundred or a thousand feet
of line to reel out before the fish can be
stopped. Dean C. Worcester of the Philip-
pines, an authority on game fishing, who
has fished with the writer in Hawaiian
waters, is of the opinion that the ono is
the tanguingi of the Philippine waters and
apparently identical with the West Indian
game fish, the potos. Mr. Worcester once
foul-hooked a fish of this species under the
back fin and he was kept busy throughout
the greater part of an afternoon. Some
remarkable catches of the ono have re-
cently been made off Molokini Island,
Maui, one fish measuring six feet and
weighing sixty-one pounds. In a recent
four days' try-out in these waters, over
two hundred pounds of ono were killed.



.:-.;.//iiANXI





Pollyann Visit's One Of The Most Beautiful and Romantic Places In All
America - The Hotel del Coronado



My dear Isabel:

YOU never could guess where I am in-
diting this epistle on this bright, sun-
shiny Sunday morning in January.
Well of course not, you will say, as you
have given up trying to guess where Polly-
ann will go next. It is in — what I con-
sider — one of the most beautiful and ro-
mantic places in all America — the Hotel
del Coronado's "Garden of Allah."

Of course, they do not always call this
enchanting spot by that name, yet I really



believe that there never was a place which
so completely filled the description of the
novelist, as does this unique patio of the
Coronado. Not quite so large as the gar-
den that graces the famous bit of Sahara
fiction, it nevertheless contains as mar-
velous a collection of tropical growth as
did the one in the popular story.

I was in a quandary as to where I should
write you this greatly overdue letter, when
I, this morning, realized that I had neg-
lected my duty for several days. It was so
warm and pleasant, that I hated to stay




not another place in all California that possesses just such an atmosphere as surrounds

Coronado."



33



where the rolling surf lulls one to sleep.



indoors and I was just enjoying an after
breakfast stroll when I drifted into this
wonderfully interesting corner of Coro-
nado. Manager John Hernan was telling
me of all the rare and beautiful specimens
of plants which his famous garden contains,
when the idea struck me that it was a fit-
ting place to write to my dear Isabel, so
lost no time in sending for stationery,
knowing that you would not mind my writ-
ing with pencil.

So here I am, under the shade of a
feathery leafed palm, which is a native of
far away Egypt, scribbling a few lines to
tell you, my dearest chum, of what a grand-
ly beautiful time I am having down here
at Coronado by the sea.

I wish it could last always, for every
hour seems more delightful than the last.
I do not believe there is another place in
all of California that possesses just such
an atmosphere as surrounds Coronado. T
do not wonder that there are people here
today who have been coming to this hotel
each and every winter for a score of years.
You see, my dear, this is not one of those
painfully new and garnished places where
everything is so down to date that one
grows weary, trying to fit into the scenery.
It is just the same delightful, homelike and
care-free Coronado whose reputation has
been traveling around the world for a quar-
ter of a century.

There are the same great big comfort-
able rooms, many of which have sleeping
porches over on the ocean side, where the
rolling surf lulls one to rest. There is the
roomy lobby and its adjacent parlors with
cozy nooks, that call for "a plenty" of that
renowned product of old Castile, "dolce
far niente."

Over by the ocean is the most enticing
ball-room, with a floor that just makes you
want to dance, while at the other end of
the house is the most wonderful dining
hall in all California.



And then too, Coronado has the prevail-
ing "Spirit of 1918" and patriotism is not
lacking. All over the place are the boys
from the Army and Navy, not only those
of our own United States, but it is no un-
common sight to see the uniform of the
Canadians, English, and that dear beloved
France. There is much to do here for
their amusement and entertainment, while
they are on "leave," with outdoor sports
such as golf, tennis and an occasional game
of polo. Tomorrow the annual Pacific
Coast tennis tournament commences on the
Coronado Courts. It is one of the season's
brightest events, at least this year that the
polo tournament has been abandoned be-
cause of so many of the crack players hav-
ing entered the service. But there is still
enough polo spirit left for an occasional
game and we are to have one this after-
noon. Of course, it goes without saying
that there is a perfectly wonderful golf
links, and you know your Pollyann loves
the sport, and then let me whisper a little
secret — the exercise is "thinning."

I cannot begin to describe it all but just
now I am more interested in this wonderful
"Garden of Allah" and I have been asking
Manager Hernan all about it, so that I can
tell you some of its history. Do you wish
to hear a bit of Coronado romance? I
know you do, so here it is, and I was for-
tunate enough to behold the principals in
a delightful little story.

Romances are like fairy tales and should
begin thusly: About twenty years ago,
two families were spending the winter here
at the hotel. One of them boasted a great
athletic student son, from Yale, while in
the other family was a most attractive
daughter. You can guess the rest but not
the routine of it. Coronado gave parties
in those days, just as they do now, and be-
tween dances there were strolls in the
"Garden of Allah," just as there are now.
The palms were smaller then and the



34




'Of course there is a perfectly Konderful links."



bougainvilla had only started its climb over
the little summer house; but the same
moon sent down its silver beams and the
same long shadows lay in the corners.

The s(5n of Yale and the pretty debutante
sat out a dance or two among the beauties
of the garden. The next is the regulation
story, with an engagement announcement
and more strolls in the garden under Coro-
nado's bewitching moon.

Just a year later, the Coronado register
carried the inscription of Mr. and Mrs.
"Yale," back this time for honeymoon
rambles under the palms in the fast devel-
oping patio.

At this point is a lapse of nineteen years



with several winter visits to Coronado by
the "Yales." Here is where I came in —
not into the romance, Isabel — but into the
dining room this morning for a late break-
fast.

Over by one of the windows sat the
bride and groom of twenty winters
ago, he a trifle portly, but she, I know,
even lovelier as a matron than she was as a
debutante and really, Isabel, I believe from
his delightfully charming attentions, that
the bridegroom of that distant day agrees
with me. But the real charm of that table
were the two beautiful daughters who are
enjoying their annual outing here by the
shimmering Pacific. Then, as I looked




'Tomorrow the Annual Pacific Coast Tournament commences/



35




"It is just the same delightful, homelike and carefree Coronado ichose reputation has been traveling
around the world for a quarter of a century.



again, I remembered two couples who, last
nighty strolled past me in this "Garden of
Allah." One couple was the eldest daugh-
ter and a dashing naval officer, while the
younger girl was escorted by a soldier in
khaki with two bars on his shoulder.

Now, Isabel, mayhap history is going to
repeat itself. Romance lives with every
minute and the moonlight sifts through the
palms, even more entrancingly than it did
a score of years ago. However, I hope the
"Garden of Allah" will deal as kindly and
sweetly by the daughters as it has by their
parents who, I will wager, are still sweet-
hearts.

Now tell me that this little romance is
only one out of a long list and that, if the
records were available, it could be fully
proven that a charm exists in this beauteous
spot which takes the place of the love
philters of olden day alchemists, only the
Coronado efifects are permanent. Facts to
establish this are plentiful and the en-
chantment of the garden acts as powerfully
on newlyweds as upon lovers. Nor does
this apply to the special seasons, for every
month in the year brings honeymoon tours
galore that have Coronado as a southern
terminal. Bravo, say I, and may the spell
woven by John Hernan's "Garden of Allah"
never reach its waning.

Speaking of romance, my deal Isabel,
this whole peninsula — which bears the
same name as the hotel that occupies its
ocean front — breathes romance to perfec-



tion. It was, in centuries long gone, the
landing place of both buccaneers and con-
quistadores. Even the events that are re-
sponsible for its present wonderful per-
fection, were tinged with the romance of
the sea.

Commodore John D. Spreckles, in the
booming 80's, cruising with his schooner,
the famous "Lurline," among the islands
off the California coast and, needing sup-
plies, put into San Diego. The advent of
a real yacht was a novelty to the then
diminutive seaport, so, when it was discov-
ered that a real millionaire had sailed his
own craft into the harbor, a deputation of
citizens went off to call on him with that
"key to the city" stuff, backed up by a real
California welcome. The committee was
obliged to hunt around the deck a little, to
find the "Lurline's" owner, as its members
failed to recognize him at first glance. He
sat on the taffrail clothed m slickers and
a souwester, for the "Lurline" had made
port in heavy weather.

However, they found him and filed the
usual invitation to a big feed ashore, afteif
which — well, I don't know — but I reckon
they all went below to see what the "Lur-
line" carried in her lazaret. The "doings"
ashore were really something to be proud
of in those early days of San Diego's pros-
pective greatness. The Commodore was
invited to absorb some of San Diego's en-
thusiasm and join the citizens in making
the city famous.



36



ARROWHEAD MAGAZINE



37



San Diego's harbor needed coal handling
facilities and Commodore Spreckles was,
first a yachtsman and next a ship owner.
^'Send us your ships with coal and we will
provide water front space to unload them,"
said the leading citizens. The Commodore
took it under advisement but the San
Diegans were not going to pass up such a
splendid chance. So, just before the "Lur-
line" sailed away, another committee went
aboard bearing a gift in fee simple, con-
sisting of deeds to a goodly portion of the
city's water front to be used by the Com-
modore as a location for the coal bunkers,.

To my way of thinking, that was the best
thing San Diego ever did, for, from that
beginning the Spreckles efforts toward the
upbuilding of San Diego have developed
block after block of city buildings, miles
of city railways, a steam railroad to the
Arizona line, the wonderful "Exposition
Beautiful of 1915," and a number of other
developments so valuable to a progressive
city; with wondrous Coronado as a fitting
gem among the vast investments.

Just look at the romance in the bringing
about of all those results which, if one did
not know the story, would be considered
just "big business" and no more.

Why it is in the air down here, Isabel.
I really am getting romantic myself. I


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