1.360
15.603
42
353
2.931
328
4.863
723
7.036
X.303
14.8x9
43
335
3.8x0
3x5
4.696
637
S.780
z,i77
13.386
44
1^
2.633
304
4.613
4.578
$31
4.777
1,052
13,033
^1
2,440
304
474
4.547
970
IX, 565
46
189
2,376
293
4.4S9
494
4.832
11,667
^l
X83
2,321
249
3.963
SIX
4.940
943
11,333
48
170
2,149
206
3.493
500
4.371
876
ZO.OX3
49
Z50
1.925
211
3.397
540
5.215
901
ZO.S37
10,586
50
141
z,840
163
3,772
614
I5?t
9x8
SI
Z33
1.750
144
2,337
663
940
zo,545
Sa
109
1.3x5
130
2,045
677
S.701
906
9.061
Average
per week
z8i
f2,079
370
<4.0O4
768
f7.733
X.219
<X3.830
199
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
a complete measure of the industry, of course,
since it does not include all the shops in the trade.
If this demand were repeated regularly throughout
the year, the total wages paid by these shops would
have amounted to more than a million and a quar-
ter. The wages actually paid amounted to less
than three-quarters of a million, or 57 per cent of
the estimated total if there had been no seasonal
variations. In other words, the trade lost 43 per
cent of the labor force which it would have utilized
had it been able to hold throughout the year the
level attained in its busiest week.
TABLE 30. — ^ACTUAL ANNUAL WAGES PAID IN THE
YEAR 191 3, AND ESTIMATED ANNUAL WAGES FOR
A YEAR OF 52 MAXIMUM WEEKS, IN 40 RETAIL,
RETAIL-WHOLESALE, AND WHOLESALE MILLI-
NERY ESTABLISHMENTS IN NEW YORK CITY *
Branch of trade
Total wages
paid by different
establishments
in maximum
week of year
Estimated total
wages for year
of 52 maximum
weeks
Total actual
annual wages
Retail . . .
Retail-wholesale .
Wholesale . .
J3»225
5,813
15,279
$167,700
302,276
794,508
$108,120
208,224
402,134
Total. . . .
J24,3i7
$1,264,484
$718,478
a Figures are for 21 wholesale, 12 retail, and seven retail-wholesale
establishments.
A summary of the facts as to numbers employed
and wages paid week by week (the data in Table
29) is given in Table 31, showing the maximum
200
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SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
and minimum in each branch of the trade, the
average for the year, and the per cent which the
average represents of the maximum. Here the
maximum is the figure for the single week of
greatest employment in all the shops combined.
TABLE 31. — ^MAXIMUM, MINIMUM, AND AVERAGE
NUMBER OF WOMEN EMPLOYED IN ANY ONE WEEK,
AND MAXIMUM, MINIMUM, AND AVERAGE AMOUNT
OF WAGES PAID IN ANY ONE WEEK DURING THE
CALENDAR YEAR I913, IN 40 RETAIL, RETAIL-
WHOLESALE, AND WHOLESALE MILLINERY ES-
TABLISHMENTS*
Maximum
in any
one week
Minimum
in any
one week
Average
for year
Per cent
average
is of
maximum
Women employed
Retail . .
Retail-wholesale
Wholesale
^55
358
1,168
63
112
426
181
270
768
71
Total wages paid
Retail . .
Retail-wholesale
Wholesale .
$2,938
5,098
12,299
$602
1,826
3,612
$3,079
4,004
7»733
â–
71
63
» Figures are for 21 wholesale, 12 retail, and seven retail-whole-
sale establishments.
Thus, in the wholesale shops the average force
maintained was only 66 per cent of the maximum;
in retail, 71 per cent; and in retail-wholesale, 75
per cent. The figures for wages were very similar.
The difi^erences in the figures for maximum wages
in Tables 30 and 31 show a fact of significance in a
201
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A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
discussion of unemployment statistics. In Table
31 a single week is selected in which numbers
employed, or wages paid in all the shops combined,
were at their maximum. In Table 30 the wages
paid were noted for the maximum week in each
shop and the result was obtained by adding them
together for all shops, regardless of the fact that
the maximum week occurred on different dates in
different shops. In Table 30 the maximum wage
bill is larger than in Table 31. In other words, to
group the shops first and then to measure the regu-
larity of their force and their payroll week by week
tends to equalize the fluctuations actually en-
countered by the workers. Even in the week
which is busiest for the whole group, workers may
be out of employment in those establishments in
which the season has taken a different course.
In all the data so far given we have been indi-
cating merely a rough measure of variations in the
industry. None of these figures can be regarded
as a measure of the regularity of employment of
individual workers. They must be supplemented
by facts regarding individual records. The method
of studying the payrolls by using a single card for
each worker and copying her earnings week by
week enabled us to ascertain how many weeks in the
year she received pay from one shop. It did not,
of course, show the length of her employment in
the shop, since she may have been at work in the
same place the preceding year, and may have re-
turned in the year following the investigation.
202
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SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
Nor does it show her total history of employment
during the year, unless she was on the payroll fifty-
two weeks. Time lost in this shop may have been
spent at work in another millinery establishment
or in another occupation. Table 32 shows the facts
as they are recorded in the individual schedules
secured for 3,983 women, indicating the length of
employment in one shop inthe calendar year 191 3.
TABLE 32. — WEEKS THAT WOMEN WERE ON THE
ANNUAL PAYROLL OF A SINGLE MILLINERY ES-
TABLISHMENT IN TtiE CALENDAR YEAR I913, BY
MAIN BRANCHES OF THE TRADE
Number of
weeks*
Women on payroll of a single es-
tablishment the specified number
of weeks
All women
Retail
shops
RetaU-
wholesale
shops
Wholesale
shops
Number
Per cent
I
2
3
4
5
6
I
9
10
II
13
13
14
11
78
37
31
17
\i
17
12
8
\i
16
II
13
6
3
95
41
29
\l
9
10
16
8
8
13
II
8
IS
12
10
607
307
196
148
128
104
74
S9
57
f6
49
^
32
37
780
246
182
IS8
129
lOI
87
?i
85
76
S^
64
50
50
19.6
9.7
6.2
4.6.
4.0
3.2
2.5
2.2^
1.8'
1.9
2.1
1.9.
1.6
1.6
1.3
1.3,
.40.1
' 1 1.9
7.7
5.8
& The number of weeks in this table is based on the number of
times the worker's name appeared on the payroll of a shop, and in
this way a fraction of a week is in some cases counted as a week.
For example, if a milliner began work in a given establishment on
Wednesday of one week, and worked there for the following three
weeks, leaving on a Wednesday three weeks after she started, her
length of employment would be counted as four weeks, that is, four
payroll periods.
203
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A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
TABLE 32. — (Continued)
Number of
week!
Women on payroll of a single et-
tabliihment the specified number
of weeks
All women
RetaO
shops
RetaU-
wholesale
shops
Wholesale
shops
Number
Percent
17
18
19
30
ax
22
33
24
'd
V.
29
30
31
32
33
34
u
11
39
40
41
42
43
44
49
SO
SI
52
10
I
S
4
1
14
13
2
6
7
•1
8
1
}
6
4
4
t
3
I
6
3
7
6
16
t
6
9
II
\l
12
;i
9
22
22
20
8
5
40
22
35
22
19
29
20
22
16
28
10
15
15
22
21
8
't
14
17
23
15
21
25
20
19
9
21
17
20
20
27
37
43
34
97
n
49
29
27
34
27
?2
35
^S
21
29
29
17
35
11
36
32
12
?
38
31
40
40
52
42
U
70
57
1 10
.9
1.2
1'
I
.9
^,
.5
.7
.7
•4<
.9
.5
.7
.8
.9
1.0,
-9
1.0
1.0
x.o'
1.3
\i
1.8
. 4.2
3.0
2.5
2.3
3.0
. 3.5
. 3.7
4-7
7.6
Total
502
641
2,840
3.983
100.0
Median number
of wecksb
II
17
6
8
b This is a designation of the median group, not an exact median
worked out by formula. (See footnote b, p. S^.)
204
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SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
II. WAGES
The various types of wage statistics secured are
described in Chapter V. All the tables showing
rates of pay as distinct from earnings, and several
of those dealing with earnings, are presented in this
supplementary report. Piece workers are omitted,
of course, from tables dealing with wage rates,
since these tables apply only to workers paid by the
week. Table 33 shows the wage rates recorded for
the week workers on the current payroll ; that is to
say, the data for the single payroll period nearest
the date of investigation in each shop. To sim-
plify the presentation the shops are classified as
retail and wholesale, including with the retail es-
tablishments those separated in some previous
tables as retail-wholesale. I n type of workmanship,
these shops are part of the retail group, although
the fact that they have some wholesale trade does
afi'ect their seasons and therefore made it desirable
to keep them separate in Chapter IV.
In retail, 148, or 27 per cent, were rated at less
than $8.00 a week, and in wholesale the number
was 208, or 23 per cent. For the whole group of
week workers the median wage rate was $10.77.
The median in retail was higher than for week
workers in wholesale. It should be remembered,
however, that these figures take no account of the
piece workers in wholesale. Table 34 shows the
actual earnings of the same group of workers with
the addition of those paid by. the piece.
205
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A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
TABLE 33. — WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES FOR WOMEN
WEEK WORKERS EMPLOYED IN RETAIL AND
WHOLESALE MILLINERY ESTABLISHMENTS, AS
SHOWN BY CURRENT PAYROLL. I914
Women em-
ployed in
All women
Weekly rate of wages
Retail
shops
Whole-
sale
shops
Num-
ber
Per cent
Less than $2 .
$2 and less than J3
$3 and less than $4
$4 and less than $5
$5 and less than $6
t6 and less than $7
$7 and less than $8
$8 and less than ig
$g and less than $10
$10 and less than $12 .
$12 and less than $14 .
$14 and less than $16 .
$16 and less than $18 .
$18 and less than $20 .
$20 and less than $25 .
$2^ and less than $30 .
$30 and less than $35 .
$35 and less than $40 .
$40 or more .
4
18
25
21
26
21
33
37
33
52
92
78
24
10
19
'1
6
25
4
12
58
72
100
95
;g
91
14
18
17
19
II
7
9
4
22
37
79
105
\U
197
259
36
33
19
13
34
•3
11
31
4-4
5.5
7.3
n
13.6
17.9
1.9
2.5
2.3
1.3
•9
2.3
Total . .
546
901
1,447*
1 00.0
Median wage rate h
$12.04
$10.51
$10.77
a Of the 1,951 women whose names appeared on the current pay-
roll, 504 were piece workers in wholesale shops whose rates of pay
could not be ascertained, since they are determined by unit of pro-
duction rather than by unit of time worked.
h See footnote b, p. 83, and footnote a, p. 139.
The median earnings actually received by work-
ers in retail, all of whom were week workers, was
jJio.go, while the median rate for the same group
was J5i2.04. Of the whole number, 35 per cent
206
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SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
TABLE 34. — ACTUAL EARNINGS DURING ONE WEEK
FOR WOMEN PIECE AND WEEK WORKERS EM-
PLOYED IN RETAIL AND WHOLESALE MILLINERY
ESTABLISHMENTS, AS SHOWN BY CURRENT PAY-
ROLL. 1 9 14
Women
employed in
All women
Weekly earnings
Retail
shops
Whole-
sale
shops
Number
Per cent
Less than $2 .
8
41
49
3.6
$2 and less than $3
$3 and less than $4
$4 and less than $$
36
35
61
3.3
28
43
89
3-7
23
66
4.8
$5 and less than |6
$6 and less than V7
3<
85
116
6.3
25
93
118
6.3
{7 and less than $8
$8 and less than $9
tg and less than $10
38
107
145
7.8
35
140
175
9-4
32
139
161
8.6
$10 and less than $ia .
50
333
373
145
)i3 and less than $14 .
»I4 and less than |i6
84
"^
255
13.6
65
145,
7.8
I16 and less than $18 .
US and less than foo
24
35
49 1
9
15
24/
3-9
bo and less than $2^
16
38
441
b5 and less than $30
15
18
^^l
41
: (30 and less than $35
8
10
18 \
1-7
:(35 and less than $40
7
7
14/
I40 or more .
23
9
31
1.7
Total . .
546
1.323
1.869 a
lOO.O
Median earnings h.
J10.9O
fe-4i
$9.69
a Of the 1,951 women whose names appeared on the current pay-
roll, 83 were piece workers whose earnings were not included as they
had been employed only five days during the week on account of a
legal holiday, and their earnings were not strictly comparable with
those in shops having a normal six-day working week.
h See footnote b, p. 83, and footnote a, p. 139.
earned less than jjJS.oo. The table shows also that
the range of earnings is wide, varying from less
207
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
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208
Digitized by CjOOQIC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
than J52.00 to more than J40, with 11 per cent
earning $16 or more.
Table 35 shows the rates of wages of week work-
ers and Tables 36 A and 36 B show the earnings,
classified according to length of experience, for both
week and piece workers. The number considered
is less than in the tables giving rates and earnings
because the latter represented payroll transcrip-
tions, while the tables which follow are based on
the cards filled by the girls in the workrooms. As
already explained, not all of those listed on the
current payroll filled these cards.
Table 35, showing weekly rates, brings out some
interesting facts. None of those getting less than
J54.00 had had as much as two years' experience.
Only 14 of the 766 getting j58.oo or more had had
less than two years' experience. Table 36, show-
ing actual earnings in a given week, reveals low
earnings for some workers of long experience,
doubtless because of the presence of other factors,
such as fines for tardiness and loss of days through
illnes s or other causes. On the whole, there is a
steady increase with experience.
If experience be a factor in wages, it follows
naturally that wages will vary for different age
groups, although the two sets of figures will not
be identical for the reason that milliners have be-
gun work at difi'erent ages. A woman of twenty
years' experience may have begun work at fourteen
or at twenty, or one who has been a milliner three
years may be seventeen or thirty-five. Moreover,
14 209
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
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a given wage has a different meaning for the girl of
seventeen and the woman of thirty-five. Tables 37
and 38 show rates and earnings in the different
age groups.
Except in the higher age groups in which the
numbers are too few to warrant conclusions, the
median wage in both tables steadily increases with
age. In Table 38, as in preceding tables, median
earnings are almost invariably lower than rates for
the same groups. Table 37, giving wage rates, shows
that of the 125 receiving less than $6,00, 83 were
under eighteen and 42 were eighteen or older. In
every age group except the last, however, a wage of
less than $ 10 is received by someone. In Table 38,
showing earnings, we discover that of the 507 girls
under twenty-one, only two received $\6or more;
but, on the other hand, of the 180 women of thirty
years or older, as many as 1 1 3 received less than
$16. The higher wages are not attained by more
than a small proportion of the workers and then
only by the more mature. That the prizes
are chiefly reserved for those who have the ability
to become designers or forewomen is shown in
Tables 39 and 40, giving rates and earnings ac-
cording to positions held. The numbers treated
here are identical with those for whom current
payroll statistics were copied, since the facts about
the occupation of each worker were secured from
the employer and did not depend upon the work-
ers' replies.
212
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
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SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
The column for machine operators includes those
who prepare various parts of the trimming on ma-
chine, but not the straw sewers, who are separately
recorded.* The table of rates shows only three
of the 72 designers receiving less than $18 a week.
Of the 97 apprentices, four were earning j56.oo
or more. The median rate for milliners, exclud-
ing forewomen and their assistants, designers, and
apprentices, was $10.88, and the median actual
earnings $9.63.
Closely related to the data regarding length of
experience in the trade are the statistics of the
duration of employment in one establishment in
relation to wages, as shown in Table 41.
The steady increase in median earnings with
increasing duration of employment in one estab-
lishment seems to indicate that it pays to stay as
long as possible in one shop. The increase is
rather surprising, as the prevalent impression that
changes from shop to shop result advantageously
in wages would not have led one to suppose that
the length of experience in one establishment would
have been shown to be so distinct a factor in in-
creased pay. Of course the comparatively high
median for those employed less than one year in the
shop does indicate that many in this group have
had experience in other shops. It should be noted
that the group numbers 421, of whom only 85, as
already pointed out in an earlier chapter,! have
* See Appendix B, p. 248, for note on wages in straw sewing.
t See Table 1 1, p. 85.
217
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
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