I'
s"s
Si I **"
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
been milliners less than a year. About one in five,
2 1 per cent, had worked five years or longer in the
same shop.
The data so far quoted all relate to the current
payroll for one week. In presenting the statistics
drawn from the annual payroll we have not se-
lected one typical week, but have ascertained the
total earnings of each worker and then divided
this sum by the number of times her name was on
the payroll, thus determining the average con-
tents of weekly pay envelopes throughout the
year. These averages for the whole group have
been discussed in Chapter V. Table 42, following,
shows the average weekly earnings in different
occupational groups.
The most noteworthy feature of the table is the
fact that the median earnings are lower in all but
one of the corresponding groups than were shown
in Table 40, which gave the actual earnings dur-
ing one week. The difference was probably due
chiefly to the losses in working time during the
longer period covered by these statistics.
Whether or not there is any relation between the
ability of a worker as measured by her earnings
and the number of weeks she is employed in one
shop in a year, can best be shown by a study of the
wage distribution according to the duration of
employment, as in Table 43.
In a thoroughly regularized industry, and one in
which the force was stable, only so many jobs
would terminate within the year as might repre-
219
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
I
D
O
H
2
§
:g
u<
O
o
o
tt)
o u
2 >•
o ^
z 2
O
H
2
:^
(/)
<
Q
s
:^
o
ai
O
o
>
Tf o
J <
rrs
On
<
<
o
z
U]
<
u
s
'1
« M « « fo« in^fOM I c«
e«HMM^t^Otoooo(«>e<H
s
I
n«
« u)0 w>ioO
_ 4 M M M rou)
«»«»^«»«»«»
fjiiiiilllllli
^? ro^w>>p r-oo M M M « « ro»«
f
'9
I
220
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
TABLE 43. — AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS DURING
PERIOD OF EMPLOYMENT, BY NUMBER OF WEEKS
ON THE PAYROLL DURING THIS PERIOD, FOR
WOMEN EMPLOYED IN ANY ONE MILLINERY ESTAB-
LISHMENT FOR MORE THAN ONE WEEK IN THE
CALENDAR YEAR I913
Women employed in any
one establishment in the
calendar year 1913
Average weekly earnings
More
than I
week and
less than
10
10 weeks
and less
than 20
20 weeks
or more*
All
women
Less than $2.
$2 and less than $3
I3 and less than $4
$4 and less than $5
$5 and less than $6
$6 and less than ij
$7 and less than $8
{8 and less than $9
$g and less than $10
$10 and less than $12
$12 and less than $14
$14 and less than $16
$16 and less than $18
$18 and less than $20
$20 and less than $25
$25 and less than : 30
$30 and less than $35
$35 and less than $40
$40 or more .
62
105
105
;s
167
121
117
93
'1
28
11
12
18
2
I
6
18
27
24
I
45
55
114
40
35
12
16
8
5
5
I
3
I
21
39
50
68
88
III
109
145
335
78
22
35
M
\l
23
81
■,§
X
284
271
248
131
45
53
20
18
32
Total . . .
1,361
607
i»235
3.203b
Median average earnings^
J6.53
$8.57
$9.90
$8.25
a The group on the payroll 2Q weeks or longer represents for the
most part the permanent portion of the force. Of the 1,235 in this
croup, 78 per cent remained 30 weeks or more, and more than half
(54.4 per cent) remained 40 weeks or more, while only 22 per cent
staved less than 30 weeks.
D Of the 3,983 women who appeared on the annual payroll at any
time during the year, 780 were on the payroll a week or less and were
omitted from this table.
c See footnote b, p. 83, and footnote a, p. 139.
221
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
sent a normal displacement of workers because of
old age, death, retirement, or other natural causes.
No data are available to show what would consti-
tute such a normal displacement in the millinery
trade. The table, however, would seem to indi-
cate an abnormally unstable condition in milli-
nery, since of all the workers employed in this
representative group of shops for longer than one
week in the year, 42 per cent appeared on the pay-
roll less than ten weeks.
Each record of an individual in the calendar
year is in reality the record of a job within that
year, and the total earnings in the twelve months
represent the total receipts of one job. Table 44
shows the receipts for 3,203 jobs, classified accord-
ing to the type of work.
In Table 45 the total earnings are correlated
with the duration of employment in one shop. Of
course, the data in this table merely corroborate
the facts already presented regarding irregularity
of employment.
Even the group employed longest within the
year received a median wage of only $^. For
the group as a whole, the retail workers ap-
parently earned much more than those in whole-
sale from a single job in the year — ^$165 as com-
pared with $84. A larger proportion of the retail
workers are employed twenty weeks or longer, and
their rates of wages are higher.
It was in home interviews that we were able to
find out more about the entire trade careers of
222
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
O
tu
t/T
2
O
H
<
D
U
U
o
H
s
Ul
tu
O
Q
O
0U
O
z
D
Q
c/)
O
S
<
i
T
?
Ul
>-)
<
a\
<
Ul
<
Q
Z
Ul
<
u
Ul
X
H
Ul
Ul
^
Ul
Z
o
z
<
X
H
4
00 ^t*i^^ ^Vit*it9 (>ow>N>0 (« ror-t
OUj^OiOOiC^fOOOM^MfOM^
00 Okw « ao M ^fo>o inicHoo M M • ^
I
9
I
^p
m ^00 M H ic M r» lo
00 O M a On ^ ^ t*>0 00 00 ro • M
H00"*(O«««w
»Ooo^»or>.O^p Otoo M « Tf o^M
I
I
223
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
^ 1, z
tt) s ^
RANCH
MEN E
WEEK
2^2
<0i^
S p z
^"^ <
ffi r X
•J H
«•* nJ
How
^ ^ ^
S >^ o
? < S
>- cu ^
O ,,, fti
-» S o
flu X u:
s H 7^
S ^ H
!Z 2
u. O U
'^'r.na
Q ^ S
o 3 52
S u *-j
£^§
t^ ^
5 oi ^
fti w >^
S « s^
Q :s ^
ui 2 5
o 2 H
m
5 >^ -
^^ "^ «•
2 ffl <
5)
?5 ^ w
0^
< Q S
<
< w ^
Qi
fc Q 5
<
2 < ^
Q
Th5
2
U
nJ
itnU Q
<
Tf X w
u
U]
X
5 o £
H
<
H
224
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
these girls, and especially whether or not they had
been able to find other work in slack season.
Table 46 shows for the girls whom we interviewed
the length of their experience and their weekly
wages in millinery.
Experience in the millinery trade, measured by
the median, was four years and a half for the 242
women interviewed by us at home, and nearly six
years for the 1,351 milliners reporting in the shops.
The median earnings of the smaller group were
almost identical, $9.56, as compared with $9.69
for all those recorded on current payrolls in the
shops (Table 34, page 207), or $10.02 for the
group reporting length of experience in the trade
(Table 41, page 218). The girls investigated in
the shops were slightly older (as already discussed
on page 121), with a median age of about twenty-
two and a half as compared with nearly twenty-
one for the smaller group. As to the duration of
employment with the present firm, or the place of
last employment, the median for our group was one
year and ten months as compared with slightly
more than two years for the larger number on the
current payroll. In length of experience in the
trade then, in time employed in the present estab-
lishment, and in age, the girls investigated in the
shops had some advantage over those with whom
we talked in their homes, although the latter were
thoroughly typical in earning capacity. Moreover,
those whom we interviewed were representative
of the varied occupations of the industry. They
IS 225
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
<
O X
H H
S <
? Q
ft- U]
< s
J >
O H
H 5
W 2
O Oi
Z w
2§
<
w w
H
H
Sgis
M M (t H M N ^M>
• H H e« M n
till 8
. M . • M e< M N «
rdi
ilii
• H M fOM aoo e< e<
• « ^ O r-oo «o CO "♦
"811]
llii
JM
H • H ^00 (O N M W> « H
H ^>0 W»'*fOM> • «
filll88illl|
r*> '^vi^ r«oo a M M M PI
!
226
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
included one forewoman, six designers and assis-
tants, 26 trimmers, 80 copyists, 49 makers, 45
preparers, 13 improvers, 16 learners, and 16 in the
other types of positions, such as machine operating,
shopping, and the work of floor girls and errand
girls. Their representative character from the
point of view of positions and wages indicates that
the data obtained from them with reference to an-
nual income may safely be regarded as typical.
TABLE 47. — INCOMES IN PAST YEAR, BY NUMBER OF
WEEKS EMPLOYED DURING YEAR, FOR MILLI-
NERY WORKERS INTERVIEWED AT HOME
Women c
employed
Income
20
weeks
and
less
than
weeks
and
less
than
weeks
and
less
than
weeks
or
more
All
women
30
40
50
Less than $100
$100 and less than $200
|aoo and less than $300
$300 and less than 9400
$400 and less than $500
$500 and less than $600
$600 and less than $800
|8oo and less than $1,000
$1,000 and less than $1,500 .
$1,500 and less than $2,000 .
I
4
3
(
a
I(
K
7
\l
14
2
2
2
I
1
7
10
3
I
7
15
35
40
34
25
5
2
2
$2,000 or more
2
2
Total
8
44
79
37
i68a
Median income^
$125
$319
$397
$465
$368
a Of the 252 women interviewed at home, 18 had not been wage-
earners for the full year, nine did not give information as to weeks
worked in past year, 21 did not state year's income, and 36 failed to
give information on either point.
h See footnote b, p. 83 .
227
Digitized by VjOOQIC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
i
O
H
2
>-)
:^
tu
O
O
o
ft- S
t^ (/)
Si
Ss
z
i^
< "^
w 5
^ •J
^ :g
^5
O
>
T
o
U] ft*
H
O
2
<
<
CO
U]
»J
O
X
w
<
CO
Ul
O
s
<
Q
>
H
2
*x
Qtf
O
tu
r^
^ H
< S
•'^ CO
2 H
<
Ul H
X U
ilii
irsr<.f| i#\0 O »rsrrN rrNVQ 0\roO OOO — rf\rf\0 r*^VQ
CI — ON « ITS ITS r<. usvo O rr\ — VO ^'nOO 00 O 00 O "^ O
^00 t^vo d\£J t^oo t^ooo ^^^ o^oo d\voo6 t^lNi
I
^1
rr\kr\r>.rr\t^O\'^^ »^00 0\ »^ f« CO »'n OnOO its On "^ *-
« •« • — — -^rTN— « — c«^f^f<^
SsSS
r«us*-r« •W'^rrN'^'^f* • •irsir\ci —
- 00 O "^ rnoo •^•^O "^O irNh^rTN O\00 v© « t>. us -^ c«
Ills
|l|«
wNvo 00 "^"sw — VO a\t^- — VO »^t^« o owe r«»oo
« O t^OO "^OOO ONMOO "^m 1^00 r«» t^ rrWO rcN ^VO
Ills
Jl-
« 0\ rcN — t>. ITS t>. "^vo rf\ — — moo »^« — rrsO'^t^f%
— — — «rfN — 00*^ — — m-^d— —
• t>. • m -00 • «
^x^
228
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
On
ir. ^v3 ^CO ^er^
^
J?^S^cSP.ir^«!XS?°°
1
VO . . usoo • •
On
I I I : '^ : : : : •" *^ :
ir\
rrs- n « - • -
O
rf^. .«<Kf.».M . .^ .
n
WN "^ rrsvo ir\ rr\ •
- « - : "" *^ : : '^ : : "
=
t^ •- n ^ ffN— •
^
• • -frNff^'VO .« .c) •
»*N
ffN - -
K
« « -^jrvX n ffN- C«00 On-
fe
t^vo -oovo 000
â– R
p«-'*2ir'* . - ff\oo c«
ffN
UN
•- 0\ 0» 0\VO »'NVO
us
- '^vo 2" '^ « ^ « I^^ ^ -
vS
2" '^00 - ^ '^OO
rf\
vo ffNffNOOvo d '^ . o\f^ .
^
00 UNCI 00 00 UN-
n 1^00 t^"^ff\n — ir\— ^ .
?.
CI W • ffsVO - •
;t
ffNOO ffN- t^ • • • "^ •
^
0)
t4
rz
1
IS
"-=:=:>>^ = = xxr; =
1
S ON
T3 D.
^8
I-
229
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
Table 47 shows annual income and the number of
weeks of employment which these milliners were
able to secure in all their positions in a year.
Thus the median income for those employed
twenty to thirty weeks was 5f5i25; thirty to forty
weeks, $319; forty to fifty, 355397, while even for
those at work fifty weeks or more, practically full
time, the median was only 555465.
Differences between shops are so great and so
significant of the lack of standardization in the
wage scale that it is worth while to show the wages
paid in each shop. Table 48 gives these data.
That differences in the wage scale are not due
to differences in hours of work is indicated in
Table 49, showing median average weekly earn-
ings by hours of labor.
In the 16 firms with a regular schedule of fifty-
one hours and less than fifty-two a week, the
median weekly earnings varied from less than $6,00
to J12 and over. Moreover, firms with the same
general wage level, as for example the six in which
the median earnings were between JJ59.00 and jfJio,
varied in weekly hours from less than forty-eight
to fifty-four.
One other factor in wages remains for discussion,
namely, the age at beginning work. Advocates of
child labor legislation say that the postponement
of the time of beginning work increases the later
earning capacity of the worker. Statistical data
on this point are rare. To throw light on the ques-
tion, we have divided the milliners into two groups :
230
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
I
X
U
>^
u
i
O
D
O
X
u
^^
>^
H
o
>
<
Q
U
tt)
CQ
All
estab-
lish-
ments
«
c
^
1
•s
s
1
•s
1
.s
1
1
1
• rrs •- n rt> — • —
-
53
hours
and
less
than
54
• n - - • - •
kr\
::: - :::
n
51
hours
and
less
than
52
M ir\ •- rrs • . -^f —
v£
qui -
-
- : : :
r«
?||||2>
-
: : - :
e«
hours
and
less
than
49
: : : :
:
JM
- : :-
«
c
1
s
t
s
1
■■§
C
c
X
i
c
eg
X
1
CC
:9
o = 2 •
T3 G C u.
C «J «J O
1
4> O
JC ♦-
H bO
G
l§
b ^
^1
*•§
1-
(« G ;3
_ •*-» O
111
-^ G «
C
>
231
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
H
7:
U
tA
D
U
O
u
tt)
u
w <
?: u
3 >^
p£
^ o
o z
<3
<A $$
U O
go
IS
U ^«
^^^ Oi
T « o
® ri z
"J >- z
n flu o
J
UN
15 years
and less
than 20
;;:;•• rrs UN ^v©
00
UN
10 years
and less
than 15
• - • . - n - t^vo 00
$
5?
«5i
5 years
and less
than 10
• - - ON-00 t>0 m
g.
SST
rr\
%
e
s>
UNU
-I
•si
o ^ ^
S &•'
o ^ c
«•? I
I
232
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
SUPPLEMENTARY REPORT
H
U
oi
D
u
o
Oi
U
o
<
>^
>-
>
O
O
o
<
H
<
o u
< «
o
flQ flu
S>i?S-s:;£^vSS;<2?
^
«
5:
-
^
«^
II
. . . M • n •* UN t^M
00
8
sg
«^
|g8
2.
S?"" c
'^f »rvO «
^T3 ^
m
^§•5
t».
years
dless
an 15
^
E
• • • •UNCI '«^^O\'*00
• • • • W ffN —
3.
vd
3
1
2g:S
«Ai
P:
• • - •IfN^— t^-.VO»«
t^
-^
c
SJ.-ag
- - d o\ci -
00
rt>
i
-g:S
«^
ears
less
n5
'^fTkO ffM^oo fn» ff^ •
a
-^
f
o
^1^
«
ears
less
n3
»^O00 OM^rrsn - • •
»r\
3;
^
« c« ♦-
'^
;&
M
JSS*^
kr\
^^ s
t^vooo "^vo
,^
t^
^s-a^
'^
UN
-g^
«(^
M k
ef\
Sit
n ...
??.
I.
i
o «» S
233
Digitized by CjOOQIC
A SEASONAL INDUSTRY
those who began work before they were sixteen,
and those who began at the age of sixteen or over.
We then classified these groups according to the
length of their experience and compared their
median wages. The results are shown in Tables
50 A and 50 B.
For those who had been wage-earners less than a
year, and who had begun work before they were
sixteen, the median wage was 5f52.7i as compared
with 5^3.33 for those who had postponed wage-
earning until later. Similar differences hold true
for every group except the last, with experience of
twenty years or more. With this one exception,
which might be explained in part by the small
numbers included in it, the facts seem to point to
an economic advantage to be gained by later en-
trance into industry.
234
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
APPENDICES
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
APPENDIX A
RECORD CARDS USED IN THE
INVESTIGATION
A. Number of Employes and Total Wages on
Payroll each Week.
B (i). Individual Earnings on Payroll (Front of
card).
B (2). Individual Earnings on Payroll (Back of
card).
C. Record of Current Payroll Combined with
Statements of Worker.
D. Questions Answered by Worker.
E. Record of Worker in Home Interview.
F. Work History (Home Interview).
G. Worker's Report of Shop (Home Interview).
H. Investigator's Report of Shop.
237
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
A. Number of Employes and Total Wages on Pay-
roll Each Week
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
/
i
11.
LI
«1
1
5
1^
1
1
1
s
*^
?
^
-5^
6
S
1
c
^
i
1
<
(JU
J^
1
c4
oe
1
^
1
KJ
U
*i.
o
o-
cr
o
O"
' s
:*â–
z
Ua| i» it
b
4
* s
0^
» s
fT,
1
. ®
v.-^
s
VlJ
^-1
il
1
Ir
ffi
s
In
s
><
« ?
^
z
i«
^
\s
^
^
>A
^
tfl
â– xt
M
^
m
^
t-
00
o»
O
H
*>
to
â– *
«o
*6
2
z
1
1!
«H
^j^
*-l
.«a
.J^
M
c<
n«S
M
C4
•a
M
O
O
1
z
<
w
5
0^
i
i
«
<
?
nJ
O
r^
<
>
i
VJ
f
00
f
1
>
9
J''
â–
1
\
1
\
\
'3
-^
V
1
\
t;
5^
1
Z
h^
to
o
o
c
o
<3-
cr
o
o
or
o-
O
, 5
i <
/"->.
1
1
c
OQ
J.
240
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
<
u
o
o
<
o
<
On
O
(/)
o
z
NN
<
<
D
>
Q
'6 241
Digitized by VjOOQIC
O
H
u
H
CO
H
Q
U
S
<
H
u
D
U
O
O
O
U
u
/ s,
^i
z
N —
— t
-J
z
. 5 •!
â– ~
Off ^
>
•2 l^
< i
>
m *â– "â–
D
z
^* 3
->
z
_
2 <
2
o
1
4
^
^ ¥
z j
t .*5
Or"
° §1
i
m
! V.
J*!
Ill
W
'^ 1
3 O
I"-
1
«
5
.1
0)
z
p
5 e^ «
u
^
•^
K5
r=f
•> u
s ^
ll
<
K
u
242
Digitized by CjOOQIC
243
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
>
u
H
a:
O
114
O
Q
O
U
U
w
•
*~ O
Si
&
Si
2 3!
3
8
{S'i
pVD
5H
4»
SO
»
«H
5 1
O < â–
IT
8
» •
- 5
5«H
oS
5-9
^1
SO
;^s
_ 13
8*
S rt
g ?
ft.
si
S a
< c
K O
ni
s
n
31
115
c
1
244
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
(4
H
(4
o
S
g
fid
I
f
5
•
§
O
9^
•
iH V<
1
s
:i "^
2 ^
b
s
•
u
s
1
I
s
t i
J
'1 1
5
•
.•
â–
r-l
M
H
fH
o
o
1
•
... "^
i
1
1
1
i
UJ
g
1
43
M
m
§
•
4»
•
i 4
Z
I
fH
: «>
•: •
: <*
•: •
9
O >
o >
«
«
i
m
'• 5
O ^
O; Jk
s
u
1
1
1
g
: S
*:5
-•iS
•
2
|:
1
%*
1 VI
9
;
s
1 •
1
^
»; !
• «4
o
!:
<
IT
1
^
: Pti
A
<
s
|ca
i
}
H <
m ;
J
wo
JS
E
Q
•M
8
1^
^
a
m
^
i
1
HX
fVI
-f
,rt
f^
lo
^
«
i K^
:
w
> o
'â– K>
K\ r-l
CM
Q
z
u
K\ r-l
•H*^
Jt'l
1
<
Z
^ S3
s^a
ds}
r4 *^
mi r^
"SS
<
K\
flC
<=>£
x«»
m : **N
a> iH
r-l r-l
•-* "^
r-i
w
i
o
1
1
; <M
<. -^
^>» *s.
•^ iH
^<
5
s
It
£ •
? 1
t f-t
fH IT
r-! to
to fH
•h;
o
8
245
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
Ii
X-N
1l
t
^
s
u
>
•»
W
•-•
2
oi
S
as
ss
U]
o
u
H
o
o
Z
1-^
(4
:^
o
I
N— ^
0^
O
X
CO
(JU
•
O
{
5
5
%«
2
«
t
U)
2
oi
w
flC
g
1
JC/5
<
^ O E
<l
â– 5!
ai
Id
:<«
o
O
?s
^1
•*••
J
l\
^\
ol a>l
2= «.
i vi)
ii
I!
z f
I
II
II
.J
I
i^ c
E
I;
I';
r
s
o
I
>
q
1
o
o
i|
246
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
0^
O
X
CO
(fa
o
(4
oi
I
o
H
«/>
>
s s
247
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
APPENDIX B
NOTE ON WAGES OF STRAW-BRAID
SEWERS
IN 1907 the New York State Department of Labor pub-
lished in its bulletin* the payroll of a representative
straw-hat manufacturer in New York City, and sum-
marized in a general way the seasons and wages in this in-
dustry. The payroll quoted covered the second and third
weeks of January of that year. It showed in the first week
that of the 19 straw sewers employed, 6 women earned less
than JIS20, 9 earned from JIS20 to $^0^ and 4 earned $^0 or more.
In the second week 5 women received less than J!20, 10 be-
tween $20 and J30, and again 4 received ^30 or more. The
lowest earnings recorded were JlSio.50, which are so far below
those of the rest of the workers that it might well be assumed
that this worker was a beginner. The highest wage paid in
either week was $36.90, and the median earnings for the first
week were $23.89 and for the second $24.50.
The labor inspector who reported on this trade estimated
that only 1 5 per cent of the 2,000 women employed during the
busy season find work at straw sewing during the entire year,
but that their earnings vary, approximating $35 per week in
the first four months of the year, $18 per week in the suc-
ceeding four months, and $12 per week in the last third of
the year. Sixty per cent work at straw sewing four months