duck, alpaca, and fancy vestings.
Third class : To include tweeds, inferior serges, Cheviots, Bannookhums,
horse-cloth, and all inferior stufEs.
Dress and Frock Coats.
Preamble. — Bluff, hound, or stitched edges (edges of lapels either cut or
shrunk), two plait pockets, one inside hreast pocket, back lining, puffs in scye,
wadding flesh basted in facings or prepared for machine, plain sleeves with one
row of stitching.
First class to start at . . . . 35 hours.
Second class to start at
Third class to start at
Lapels cut on
Single-breasted
Edges turned in and felled or stoted
Braid laid flat, on one side
• double to waist
, m continued full length
if back-stitched
Galloon or binding, felled on one side and back-stitohed the other
Baok-stitohed on both sides
Ck>rd on ed^e
Cuts in waist in line with buttons
« « if rantered
All rows, stitched on shoulders or side-body
Buggie bound, lined, or faced
Wings
Back seam, taped or felled
Hanger, i( made
Silk facings on front of breast . .
FuU-silk breast.facingB
Quilted sides, in ^ in., half-way down . .
« back lining, in i in. . .
sides, in ^m. . .
, back lining . .
Haircloth through shoulders . .
Canvas in lieu of haircloth
Plain side edges, with one button
« with three buttons
Flaps in waist
Flannel seamed in with sleeve-linings . .
32 »
80 .
Hours,
less 2
. 8
1
3
2
.. IJ
.. 2
.. 2
.. 1
.. 2
per pair ^
.. 1
extra
extra
1
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181
Hours.
Back and body interlined with flannel . .
1
Sleeves, wish vent at hand
• . • . .
h
Each hole and button at hand
extra
\
Gauntlet or bishops' cuffs
.
2*
Outside breast-pocket, with welt
each
1
Inside breast-pocket . .
• . m
1
Pockets across skirt, with welt or jetted
• m
14
plain under flap . .
. .
1
Snobs' thumbs
each
1
Each hole and button in pocket or flap . .
Lightest drab cloth . .
extra
2
Scarlet
. ^
2
Second try-on
1
44 in. and over at waist
extra
14
48 in.
• • • m
8
52 in.
44
Hours.
2
4
1
2i
8
Morning and Shooting CoaU,
Preamble.^-'PlAin S.B., bluff, bound, or stitched edges, two plait pockets,
one inside breast-pocket, back lining, puffs in scye, wadding flesh baisted in
facings or prepared for machine, plain sleeves with one row of stitching.
First class to start at . . . . 28 hours.
Second class to start at . . 24 »
Third class to start at . .
Double-breasted, lapels cut on . .
lapels cut off . .
Edges turned in and felled or stoted
Second row of stitching on edges
^ with flaps
Single-stitching seams, with lapels
» without lapels . .
, if by machine . .
Seams seamed and swelled, with lapels
without la^ls
if by machine
Double-stitched overlaid or stoted seams, with lapels
without lapels
if by machine
Meltons and doth
by machine
Flaps on waist seam . .
„ below waist seam
Hare pockets in skirt each
Or bag, loose, to button on
E!xtra pockets
with flaps
Each hole and button in pocket or flap
Ticket-pocket, plain . .
» with flap
Hanger, if made
Snobs' thumbs . . . . . . . . each
Taping back seam, or felling each side
Flat braid on one side only
if double to waist . .
if double to bottom
if back-stitched . . . . extra
Sleeve, with vent at hand
Each hole and button at hand
False cuff
if flUed up
2
54
44
2
10
9
2
12
2
1
14
2
4
1
14
3
44
6
2
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182
Hours.
Seoond try-on . . . . . . . . extra 1
44 in. and over at waist . . » H
48 in. . .. .. .. .. .. .3
52 in. . .. .. .. .. .. - 4i
All other extras same as frock coat.
Sac Co€Us.
Preamble. — S.B., with or without back seam, two outside pockets, one
inside breast-pocket, back lining, pufEs in scye, plain sleeves with one row of
stitching, edges bluff, bound, or stitched.
First chhss to start at . . . . 20 hours.
Second class to start at
Third class to start at
Double-breasted, two hours extra on either class
Double stitched edges . . . . — 'H
. if round bottom . . 4
If single-stitched, or bound round bottom . . 1
Single-stitched, lap seams . . . . 3
^ » if by machine . . . . 2
Double-stitched, lap seams . . . . 6
^ « if by machine . . 2
Seams seamed and swelled . . . . 8
, » if by machine . . 2
Guts under arms . . - i
Buffgie lined, bound, or faced . . . . . . 1
Ticket-pocket, plain • • i
with flap .. ..1
Wings •• i
Extra pockets . . 1
» with flap . . IJ
Each hole and button m pocket or flap "I
Sleeves with vent . . . . •• i
Each hole and button in sleeve-hand -I
False cuff . . . . • . . J
if filled up . . . . . . .1
Hanger, if made " i
Padding or wadding, if through shoulder extra }
44 in. and over at waist * 1
48 in. „ .. .. .. .. .2
sain. ^ .. .. .. .. • 3
All other extras same as morning coats.
Youths' sac, 84 in. and under at chest, one hour less in each class . . I
Extras same as men's.
Boys' sac, 80 in. and under at chest, two hours less than men's in each
class . . . . . . . . . . 2
Ditto, all extras one-fourth less than men's.
Chesterfield or Sac Overcoats,
Preamble. ^FhAn S B. coat, with or without back seam, two outside
pockets vvith or without flaps, one inside breast-pocket, back lining, puffs in
scye, plain sleeves with one row of i>titching facing pieced out in shoulder or
padding under lining, edges bluff, bound, or stitched.
First class to stare at . . ... 27 hours.
Second class to start at
Third class to start at
Double-breasted or with fly . .
If damped all over
Extra pockets
with flaps
19 »
18 .
Hours.
24
28
Hoars.
extra 2
. .
1
, ,
each 1
..
.. u
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1
!
183
Hours.
Each hole and button in pooket or flap . . extra
Snobs* thumbs . . . . each
Stoted or felled edges . . . . 1
Vent in back, with holes and buttons . .
with bearers seamed or stoted
Each hole and button on bearer . . extra
Second row of stitching on front edge . . 2|
• ^ with fly . . extra J
Seams strapped fChesterfields) . . . . 18
(covert coats) . . . . 16
Vent in back or sides .. each i
If over 42 in. in length . . extra
If under 36 in. in len^h . . . . . . less
Seams strapped, if stitched by machine . . extra 4
If stitched on each side of seams . . . . 10
Faced with cloth and double-sewn round bottom -I}
Binding or stitched once round bottom . . . . 1
Seams seamed and swelled . . extra 8
• « if by machine .2
^ and double-stitched . . „ 12
« if by machine ^ 2
Single-lap seams . . . . . . . . dj
if by machine . . . . 2
Double lap seams . . . . . . 10
if by machine . . . . 2
Tab for collar .. ..1
Single tab for skirt . . each ^
Taping or felling back seam . . -I
Buggie lined, bound, or faced . . . . 1
Wings .. .. .. .. " i
Hanger, if made . . • • i
Sleeves, with vent at hand . . . . • • i
Each hole and button^ vent . .
Belt for waist, turned in and felled, with one hole . . 1 r
m it stitched once . . 2i |
Each extra hole and button
Extra rows of stitching on sleeve
46 in. and over at vraist
50in.
54 in.
All other extras same as morning coat.
each
1}
8
*4
Close-fitting or Frock Overcoats.
Preamble.— Blnflf bound, or stitched edges, edse of lapels either cut or
shrunk, two plait pockets, one inside breast-pocket, back lining, puffs in soye,
wadding flesh basted in fskcings or prepared for machine, plain sleeves with one
row stitching.
First class to start at . . . . 36 hours.
Second class to start at 32 »
Third class to start at 30 .
Hours.
Lapels cut on . . . . less 2
Sii^fle breasted .. .. ' §
Double-stitched edges extra
Extra rows of stitching on sleeves . . . . each
Seams double-stitched or slated, including lapels of first-class materials . . 16
Of all other materials . . . . . . llj
• if by machine . . 3
Without lapels, in each class . . . . less 2}
« if by machine . . 2|
Seams seamed and swelled . . 9
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184
extra
Hours.
8
18
4
6
4
2*
1*
1
2i
li
1
eaoh 1
.. 19
extra S
Seams seamed and swelled if by machine
Strapped seams
» if seamed and strapped by machine
Single-lap seams, with lapels . .
» without lapels
, if by machine
Side edges plain, with one button
with three buttons . .
Plain cape seamed in with collar
» if loose . .
Turning in or lining cape
Stitching front edges only of cape
« round bottom of cape
All capes over 21 in. in length . .
All other extras not mentioned same as dress and frock.
Norfolk jackets to start same as sac.
Straps or pleats . . . . . . . . . ;
• if by machine
Belt same as in sac overcoats.
Loops for belts
Dinmg or dress jackets, two pockets, same as first-class sac
Silk rolls
All otber extras same as sac.
Paletot and paddock overcoat, plain, same as frock overcoat.
All extras same as frock overcoat.
Inverness Capes.
Two patch-pockets, four boles in front and three in cape, bound or swelled
down front edges.
First class . . . . 24 hours.
Second class . .
Third class . .
Each extra hole and button
Extra pockets
with flaps
Each hole and button in pocket or flap
If bound or stitched once round bottom
• of cape..
Gape lined . .
Body lined . .
If nouble-stitched down front edges
Plain sleeves
Lap seams . .
if sleeves . .
by machine
Lining forepart only or felling seams
Taping seams and scyes
Youths' in either class, less than men's
All other extras not mentioned in statement to be same as overcoats.
Ooums,
Morning or dressing gown of shawl-cloth, flannel, or other soft material,
three seams in body, four holes on breast, or with loops at waist, with
cords and tassel, plain sleeves, one pocket, no sewing in collar
Made of silk material
21
»
19
m
Hours,
each 1
.. 1
. .
.. 1
.. 1
.. 1
.. 2
extra 2^
4
.. 2
.. 4
.. 1}
.. 1
.. 2
.. H
If lined with silk
Double-breasted, with holes and buttons
Round cuffs lined
Seamed on lapels
Cut across vraist
extra
14
16J
1*
1
i
1
1
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Hours.
.. 14
I Bar Qowns.
..42
..39
.. 36
.. 34J
.. 37
.. 33
..33
185
Box pleat at waist
If with regular frook back
Each poqket above one
Waist-belt, with hole and button
Cord on edges
All fancy fignring to be extra.
Pulpit anc
Long bishop-sleeved gown, plain front
Plain
Plain Geneva gowns . .
Lustre or bluff Geneva
, bishop
Bar gowns ..
Precentors' gowns
All other gowns by agreement.
Boys* Dress and Eton Jackets,
One pocket, bluff, stitched, or bound edges . . . . 15
All extras same as men's.
Boys* KtUekerhocker Jackets,
Of superfine cloth, doeskin, Venetian, velvet, silk. Melton, sataras, and all
facsed cloth, two pockets, one hole and button, no collar, plain sleeves,
edges bound or swelled, chest measure 28 in. and under. First class to
start at . .
Second class to include all inferior stuffs
Flat braiding all round . . extra
Each hole and button more than one
Collar
All other extras one-fourth less than men's.
Police Jumpers.
With one pocket, five holes and buttons on front, bluff, bound, or
down the front edge
Ditto, round the bottom
Making corporal's stripe
, sergeant's stripe
Sergeant's stripe, putting on . .
All extras same as sac coats.
BasUs,
Dress and frocks, skeleton baste, with one sleeve
m m with two sleeves
• » lapels and collar
Frock overcoats same as dress and frocks.
Shooting and morning coats, skeleton baste, one sleeve, no collar . .
, « two sleeves and collar
Chesterfield and sac coats, skeleton baste, one sleeve
• , two sleeves and collar . .
• sleeve-linings, basted in each sleeve
Buttons and canvas fly basted on
Full baste to include wadding, padding, and facings, and seams
open.
Dress, frock, and frock overcoats
Shooting and morning coats . .
Sao coats and Chesterfields
12
10
1
swelled
.. 17
extra 1
.. 1
.. 14
.. 4
1!
1*
1
i
extra 4
pressed
44
34
.. 3
QemXlemen^s Vests,
Preamble,— PlBxa single-breasted vest, with two pockets, back straps, edgea
bluff, bound, or stitched.
First class to start at . . 94 hours.
Second class to start at 9 •
Third class to start at . . 84 •
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186
Roll or Prussian Collar or Clerical Stand. Hoon.
€k)llar sewn on extra ^
Double-breasted . . 1
Boll collar or double-breasted . . - . . 1
Single-breasted stand collars, edges bluff, bound, or stitched, two pockets . . 9}
Double-breasted vest, edges as above, two pockets ..10^
VesU.
Extras on
All pockets over two. .
Double-stitched edges
Flat braiding
Pricked edges
Lapels sewn on
Silk shade . .
White, buff, or scarlet
Tracing-braid, per row
Fly in breast
Flaps
Tacking or stitching behind buttons
Cuts in forepart (allowing one pair), each pair
Puffs in back
Back lining, felled at scye and bottom . .
Wadding or flannel in breast . .
in back
Sleeves, if bagged, plain cuffs, and putting in
, with vent-hole and button
Vests made up single and taped
Stitched backs
Boys* vests, not exceeding 80 in. breast
Boys' vests, extras same as men's.
48 in. and over from hole to button at waist
47 in.
61 in.
Fit-on
each
each
1*
u
1
1
1
1
1
1
i
.. 2
.. 24
extra IJ
less 2
extra }
.. 1
:: 1
Cassock Vests.
Extra on either class
All other extras same as vests.
Boys' G vests, not exceeding 80 in. in breast, less than men's oaasock vests
All extras same as men's.
Trousers,
9} hours.
:: I* :
First class to start at
Second class to start at
Third class to start at
Pockets, each
Cash-pocket or fob . .
Flaps
Each hole and button in pocket or flap
Frog-mouths
Lap side seam
Strap and buckle
French bearer
Lining trousers when making . .
« after made
Waistband lining on lined trousers (new or old)
Strapping trousers (new)
(old)
if to calf only (new)
(old) ..
Loops for belt
Cuffing trousers only . .
Hours.
.. 1
each
extra
extra
each
1
1
1
1
2*
5*
6
4
5
i
14
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187
Hours
1
i
1
2
1
i
i
extra
extra
extra
Cuffing trousers when strapping *
Crutch-lining, above 4 in. each way
Bottoms faced with cloth or canvas half-way round
« « all round
Bottoms bound « « . .
Puffs . . . . . . . . each
If taped
Oold or silver stripes on side seams
Mohair or silk stripes »
Single scarlet stripe sewn on . .
, if sewn in seam
Double scarlet stripe . .
Piping
, if by machine . .
Cut in hams, if seamed
, if rantered
Strap buttons on bottoms
Leather at heel
, all round
Full falls . .
Baste full
. forward
Plain flannel drawers, long
« short
. with fly front
Youths* trousers, 80 in. and under at waist, less than men's
Boys* trousers, 29 in.
Extras same as men's.
Men's trousers, 42 in. and over at waist
46in.
60in.
Serging trousers seams
Sewing on hanger
Lctdies* Trotiser$.
Plain
Of chamois-leather
Pleated tops or gathered
Fly in seat . .
Lined with chamois-leather
All other extras same as men's.
Breeches
Plain, without holes at knees
Continuations sewn on . . . . extra
Plain fly at knee
Each hole and button at knee
Cuts, if taped
Strapping at knee (short), felled and stitched onoe, cloth or leather
, buckskin
Strapping at knee (full length), felled and stitched once, cloth or leather
» , buckskin
Strapping at knee, each row stitched across . . extra \
All other extras same as men's trousers.
Boys' le-8 than men's . . . . . . 2
Extras same as men's.
Buckle-garter on knickerbockers (new) . . extra
(old)
Continuations on knickers (new), with four holes and buttons
(old), .
Buckskin, cloth, beaver. Melton, Venetian, velvet, silk, sataras, kersey,
Cassimere, scarlet, and all white materials except flannels to be first
class . . extra
1
4
1
i
1
2
1
h
1
1
2
1
5
4
1
1
2
i
1
li
i
.. 8
extra 2
1
^ 14
4
11
1
1*
2
24
8
14
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188
Oaiters,
With tongues
With tongues half cut in
Long leggings, no tongues
Short ^
Strapping back seams
, if by machine
Shrinking . .
Stirrup-strappings, cloth or leather
Stitching each side of back seam
by machine, count plain.
Highland gaiters, plain
Whalebones . .
Spats
Bishops' gaiters
Anklets, with three holes
Honrff.
extra
6
H
1
i
1
1
.. 6
.. 11
extra 4
Overalls.
Plain moleskin or tweed, fly front or full fall, with three pockets, ten holes
and buttons on each side seam . . ,.15
Plain overalls, same as the above, of cloth . . 1 6|
Each extra hole and button on side seam • • I
Fly up side seam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 J
Plain t«'ngues in bottoms . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
All other extras not mentioned in statement to be paid the same as
gentlemen's trousers.
Liverie$.
Box coats to start at . . . . . . . . ... . . . . 34
Frock- and dress-coat style, blufE or sweUed edges, two pockets, plain sleeves,
of first-class materials, two hours less than gentlemen's
Ditto, of all other materials
Piping
, if by machine . .
Sword-flaps ..
Side edges . .
, plain, with one button
Qauntlet cufite
Try-on and baste, same as gentlemen's frock and dress coats.
All other extras, ,
Pages' jackets, no pocket, blufl or stitched edge, and plain sleeves.
Piping edges..
if by machine
Buttons on breast from shoulder to bottom
All other extras same as men's.
extra
extra
32
28
4
2
1
••
1
extra
13
2
1
2
As per agreement.
Uniforms.
Miscellaneous Items.
Each dozen rings, covering
, moulds, covering . .
Serging morning- or shooting-coat seams
sac-coat seams
Weepers
if covered with crape . .
Mourning-band, sewn on one edge only
sewn on both edges
All pockets put in after job is finished, same as statement, with extra
Sweaters in scye
Silk tops to sleeve-lining^
Silk bottoms to sleeve- hnings, same as hand-facings.
H
1
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189
Be-presaing frock and dress ooats
• if washed
« if damped up only
Morning or shooting coats, re-pressing
m if washed
if damped only
Ohesterfields, re-pressing
, if washed
if damped-np only
Sac coat, repressing . .
• if washed . .
if damped up only
Vests, re-pressed
Trousers, re-pressed . .
if washed . .
» if damped only
Kelining frock, dress, morning, and frock oyerooats—
Fore-parts and side-bodies
Backs
Skirts . .
Sleeves ..
If relined complete
Relining Chesterfields—
Fore-parts
Backs . .
Sleeves ..
If relined complete
Belining covert and sac coats
Fore-parts
Backs . .
Sleeves . .
If lined complete. .
Relining vests — Breasts only
Rebinding ^edges and sleeves only) frock and Ohesterfields
• if round bottom
« (edges and sleeves only) dress and walking ooats
« sac ..
pockets in all coats with flap
m m with welt
Rebinding vests —
If double-breasted or collar
If single-breasted
Alterations on Coats,
Collar off
• part
Shortening collar
Re-covering collar
„ with velvet
^faking new collar, first-class materials
« second-class materials
» third-class materials
Shoulders out
Side seams (frock, dress, shooting, and morning)
• if part out
Side-body seams out . .
Pleats out . .
Across skirts..
Shortening or lengthening only
• with vent or vents
Stitching same, single-stitched or bound
extra
Hours.
^
I'
3
I'
8
14
14
24
1
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
14
64
IJ
li
5
2
14
14
4
1
5
1
5
4
I
i
34
8
extra
2
1
2
2
14
4
34
3
1
2
14
I'
1
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190
Hours.
Stitching same, if double extra 1|
New skirts . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Lapels taken off . . 5
part off . . . . . . . . 3
New lapels . . . . . . . . 9
Alterinjg back seam through tack . . 1
Stumping back . . . . . . 2
Sleeves out . .
part out . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Altering seams of sleeves, each sleeve . . . . . . 1
Shortening or lengthening plain sleeves . . 1
« with hand-facing . . IJ
Baising or lowering cuffs . . . . . . . . 1
Shortening or lengthening sleeves with hole and button at hand . . . . 1)^
Altering side seams of sac . . . . 2^
if part out . . l2
. if taped . . . . . . 8J
Chesterfield .. .. .. ..3
, .if part out . . . . 2
« • if taped . . 4
Altering back seam of sac . . . . 1
Cheeterfield . . IJ
Front edgf s off, without holes . . . . . . 3
« with holes . . . . . . . . 4
with fly ..6
, balf-way down, without holes . . . . . . 2
« half-waj down, with holes . . . . 3
Back right out of sac . . . . . . . . .. A^
» with new back . . . . . . 5
Chesterfield . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
^ with new back . . . . 6
frock, dress, morning, and shooting, through pleats . . 7
All extras moved in alterations, such as flaps, binding, vents, &c., to be
charged same as in new work, in addition to time allowed for f^terations.
Alterationt to Waistcoats.
Letting out side seams . . . . 1
Removiug set of buttons « . • • i
Making new back and refixing . . 2^
Watch-pocket put in after waistcoat made up . . . . 1
Alterations on Trousers.
Lengthening or shortening bottoms . . 1
Lowering the waist . . . . . . 3
Baising the waist . . . . 3
Letting out side seams . . . . . . ... 2
. if through pockets . . 3
Letting out or taking in seat, if through wedst or fork . . 1
• ^ and fork . . . . 1}
Seating trousers, back and front . . . . . . 2
back only . . . . . . . . . . 1 J
Bottoms jetted or faced all round . . . . . . . . . . 2
. half-way round . . . . . . 1
All other alterations and repairs to be paid at Is. per hour.
Breeches and pantaloons same as trousers.
Loo FOB Ladibb' Gabmeitts.
Ladies' Jacket,
Preamble.— hsAies' S.B. jacket, not exceeding 26 in., with or without back-
seam, with side-bodies, ^ side-bcdies. One cut or dart in front of each breast,
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191
edges blufi, bonnd, or stitched, ten
2| in. deep.
To start at . .
Argyle or Highland jacket start same as above.
Extra length, for every 4 in. or part
, side-bodiep, to include lining
holes and buttons, plain stand collars^
19 hours.
Hours.
.. 1
.. 1}
Dress Bodices.
Preamble.— Q.B, tight fitting, seven body seams, two darts in each breast,
plain sleeves, plain stand collar, edges bluff, bound, or stitched, eighteen holes
and buttons.
To start at . . . . . . 19 hours.
Edges.
Each extra row of stitching round edge, or bound
Edges corded
facings felled on binding
back-stitched on side
both sides
flat braided
pined, seamed, or felled with cloth
if bound, corded, or stitched round bottom
flat braided, round bottom
Edges stitched together
pricked together
Seams.
Single overlaid seams, stitched or back-siitched
«, if with lapels
Double overlaid seams, stitched or back-stitched
, if with lapels
Seamed and swelled seams
» if with lapels
stitched or back-stitched each side of seam
« if with lapels
Stoting seams
Strapping seams
if with lapels . .
Cuts.
For sewing cu^s under arm, including lining
any cats, 8^ in. deep or under
3^ in. deep or under if rantered
over 3^ in. and not exceeding 7 in.
extra
Houre.
.. 1
.. 2
.. li
.. 3
.. 4
.. 4
4
1
1
3
4
5
8
10
6
7J
10
13
8
13
15
per pair 1
per pair
if rantered
1
i
Holes.
Fot making button-holes not over f in. in length
over i in. up to 1 in. in length . .
^ 1 in. up to 1| in. in length . .
, «, 1 ^ in. up to 2 in. in length . .
For making eyelet-holes
Buttons t and Hooks and Eyes.
For sewing on buttons, including habit
«, on driving-coat
For covering buttons ou rings . .
For sewing on hooks and eyes . .
6 per 1
5 . 1
4 . 1
3 . 1
10 , 1
. . per doz. 1
:: : I'
IJ
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192
BandSt Straps, and Belts. Hoars.
Strapping prepared . . . . per yard i
For basting on strapping . . . . . . . . , }
For making and putting on straps on Norfolk jacket, not over 2 in.
wide .. .. .. .. .. .. each 1
shoulder-straps, seeing in sleeve-head, hole and button
in neck . . . . . . . . per pair 1}
, plain waist-belt, lined, with hole and button . . . . 2
shirt wristbands on Norfolk or other garments . . per pair 2