Percy Horace Gordon Powell- Cotton.

A sporting trip through Abyssinia; a narrative of a nine months' journey from the plains of the Hawash to the snows of Simien online

. (page 1 of 34)
Font size
QR-code for this ebook

Ik



fc-,

\




iV^vl





THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

S PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID



A SPORTINC; TRIP
T 1 1 R O U G 1:1 ABYSSINIA




ABYSSmiAN IBEX.



A SPORTING TRIP



ABYSSINIA

A NARRATIVE OF A NINE MONTHS' JOURNEY FROM

THE PLAINS OF THE HAWASH TO THE SNOWS

OF SIMIEN, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE

GAME, FROM ELEPHANT TO IBEX, AND

NOTES ON THE MANNERS AND

CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES



P. H. G. POWELL-ipOTTON

F.Z.S., F.R.G.S.^ =



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS ANP MAP



LONDON

ROWLAND WARD, i-.m.™,

i66 PICCADILLY
1902



(Tbc tf-mprcss (Faitu of tPtbiopta.

THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED,

WITH HER majesty's GRACIOUS PERMISSION, BY THE AUTHOR, IN

GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OK A PLEASANT SOJOURN IN THE

CAPITAL OF HER ILLUSTRIOUS HUSBAND, THE EMPEROR

MENELIK, AND OF SPLENDID SPORT AMONG THE

SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS OF HER NATIVE

COUNTRY, SIMIEN.



qiin hvtT. '^g.t HM-.n MK->-»ti



C tii^ftt ^^t s.o T ■ )




CHAPTER XVI

ecting dollars — A sick mule and a native vet — Entotto the old capital —
St. Mariam's — The ruined fort — St. Kaguel's — An angry priest— Curious
pictures— A thunderstorm — The lent wrecked — Compound swamped — Loss



CHAPTER XVH

Abyssinian tents— Pack-saddles — The trade-dollar of Africa — Letters to the
Governor of Erythrea — A lieutenant of I^eontieff's — News of the Boer War -
The Russian Legation are refused permission to travel to Massowah — " In-
telligence"' of Abyssinia viA Europe — My caravan, its composition — I leave the
Agency and set out on my journey north . . . ■ . .175



CHAPTER XVHI



in — One man's meat is another man's poison — The head-waters of the
Moguer — Grand scenery — I weigh my men — Somalis' acute sense of smell —
Crossing Salali — Shoot a couple of klipspringers and foil a leopard — Long-
haired monkeys and hyrax — rniuble with my Abyssinian servants — A rich
country — A natural fortress .\ petly headman — The Blue Nile — A splendid
panorama . . . . ... . . . .185



CHAPTER XLX

ibslinate guide- .\ path only fit for monkeys — " Tola "-shooiins^— .\ devil's home
— Hippopolanius-sliooiiiiL; Two w.ilk .i,liiio\ ;i!i< iili.i- ^inli^ A busy day-
Firing a mule— Koiding the .\l)b,ii - ( 'iM>oilil,'-,|u«iiin^ A .lanijerous crossing



CHAPTER XX

Dcbra Markos, capital of Gojam— The niurkel— We excite much interest— My men
are feasted — I visit the palace — Italian cannon — The governor of the city — A
relative of the king calls — Kreed captives from Khartoum — I resume my journey
A friendly high-priest — A beautiful valley — Dembatcha, capital of Damot — A
picturesque town — Duiker-shooting ...... Page 2o8



CMAPIKR XXI

A load goes to the bottom of a stream — A large escort — Ceremonial reception by the
Governor of Damot — He a.sks about London and England — My men have a
great feast — A token of honour — The Ras questions me about the Queen and
the Royal family — The Soudan and Fashoda — The Dervishes and the French —
Our church and clergy— The Ras and his new church — I bid him farewell — A
fine mountain view — A handsome old man — The Abyssinian plough . 222



CHAPTER XXH

I hear of big game — Evasion — Orders that I am not to shoot — A dilemma — Send a
messenger to Menelik — A long wait — A friend in need — Despatch letters to
Ras Mangasha — Attempt to burn me out — Small game-shooting — The upper
waters of the Blue Nile — Bushbuck-shooting — A fine waterfall — Native fisher-
men — My men attacked — Trial by elders — Verdict — Reconciliation ceremony —
A large market — A party of hunters — A fool of a messenger — A curious re-
quest — Doctoring the natives — Former trade with the Soudan — Professional
beggars 233



CHAPTER XXHI

News at last — My messenger's adventures — Robbed and beaten — A friend in need —
Escape by night — Forced marches — His mule dies — Tramps to Adis Ababa —
Reception by Menelik — The Emperor chastises his secretary — Triumphant
return — The Emperor's orders — I determine to start — More obstruction and an
insolent message — How to travel in comfort — Two oribi in one shot — We
descend to the Soudan — My escort assembling — The first day's shooting —
Natives hunting .......... 247



A SPORTING TRIP THROUGH ABYSSINIA



CHAPTER XXIV

move on to thu plain — The first head of big game — Beehives — The camp at
night — Elephants feeding in a bamboo-brake — A great day with tora — My guide
an ex-robber chief — Tracking bufifalo — We nearly run into a bull elephant asleep
— A native's idea of elephant-shooting — A fine roan — A night out — Fears for my
safety — A rescue party — A monster tusk — The course of the Balarse — An ancient
monastery — Flocks and cattle at liberty — Growing corn for monkeys — A robber
stronghold — A pugnacious roan — A ruined village— An old priest . Page 259



CHAPTER XXV

each Lake Tana — Fertile soil — How chillies are grown — Fine cattle — Where the
Abbai falls into Lake Tana — A primitive ferry — An unwilling host — The lake
and its isles — The curious course of the Blue Nile — Hippo-hunters and their
arms — Hippos at play — A queer bird — Fear of robbers — Ruined villages —
A rich country laid waste — Signs of the Dervish raid — A bone-strewn
battlefield 273



CHAPTER XXVI

Gorgora and the sacred isles — A courteous priest — Dtdjatch Cubudda and his unlucky
elephant-hunt — An unwelcome "present" — My ex-robber guide in danger of
punishment — The governor of Gondar — Refusal to let me enter the city — A
game of blufl' — The bluffer bluffed — A ruined church and fortress — The legend
of St. Tecia Haymanol 286



CHAPTER XXVII

We reach Gondar — Its history and situation — The effect of the Dervish invasion — A
miraculously preserved church — Curious pictures — The Gimp — Splendid palaces
and castles — Bruce's description of past magnificence — Lions' dens and harems
— Dungeons and banqueting halls ....... 299



CHAPTER XXVIII



A destitute Arab from Khartoum — A descendant of emperors — A horse's mausoleum
— Curious absence of wells — Canterbi's change of manner — Start for the Soudan



CONTENTS



An ill-mannered young ruler — The Emperor's letters treated with disdain —

Intimidation and obstruction — The grain supply of Metemmeh — Jokes at
England's expense — A cool request — An ineffectual start — I return to the ruler
A stormy interview — I win- Within sight of the Soiulan— A fine view — A steep
descent— The last village Page 316



CHAPTER XXIX

unting for Uudu — Jewel-strewn ground — Heat and mosquitoes — A troop of lions —
A wounded lioness — A brace of waterbuck — Nearing Metemmeh — A herd of
elephants— A magnificent sight— Native sportsmen— Buffalo-hunting . 32S



CHAPTER XXX

Carpets of flowers— Ill-luck— A plucky, boar and a near shave— A long fast— More
bad luck — An awful storm — Starvation Camp — The evil eye — My last day after
buffalo and how it resulted in failure — Return to Gondar — Spoilt trophies —
Relics from the churches — My Abyssinians strike — A change of governors no
improvement — I set out for Siniien — A fine waterfall .... 339



CHAPTER XXXI

A fertile valley and a tligln of locusts— Inchalkab, capital of Simien— The governor
lives at his palace gate — An early call — Big ibex— Sunday morning — Queer trees
and legends— A trying march — A great- troop of mantled baboons — Lost in the
clouds — Among the Simien mountains — Strange scenery — Sight ibex^An
awkward shot — Success — A splendid trophy — A native meal — Ibex
haunts 35^



CHAPTER XXXII

useless shot— A red-letter day with ibex — I''iivl the herd— Plan the stalk— A
worthless guide — I lake the lead — .\ difficult bit— The crawl up— A .splendid
sight — The clouds shut