appear that the Pacha had performed great exploits and mighty services.

[Footnote 238: Pacheco most probably, formerly mentioned, who
surrendered in a cowardly manner at Diu. - E.]

[Footnote 239: Formerly called Zidem, but it ought to be Jiddah, Joddah,
or Juddah, as differently pronounced: Yet Barthema, Corsali, Barbosa,
and other travellers of those times call it Zidem or Ziden; doubtless by
corruption. Thus likewise _Yamboa, Yembo_, or _Al Yambo_, the sea port
of Medinah, is named _Elioban_ by Barbosa, transposing the letters
instead of _El Jambo_. - Astl. I. 99. a.]

On the 15th of March we departed from Kubit Sarif, and cast anchor at
sunset at a place called _Kor_, five miles from the land and 100 miles
from Kubit Sarif. We departed from the island of Kor on the 16th an hour
before day with a fair wind and pleasant breeze, and sailing along the
coast of Arabia came to anchor at sunset in 8 fathoms water at _Zerzer_,
70 miles from Kor, a place subject to Mecca. At this place the three
persons who had fled from Zabid with their riches were brought to the
Pacha, who caused their heads to be cut off, and seized their treasure,
which filled six large sacks, each of which was a sufficient load for
any single man.

The 17th we sailed along the coast with a pleasant gale, which became
contrary an hour before sunset, when we cast anchor in 8 fathom-water,
at a place called _Adiudi_, 50 miles from Zerzer. We departed from
thence on the 18th two hours before day, and coasted along the land
till noon, when we anchored in a good port named _Mugora_, in 4 fathoms
water, 50 miles from Adiudi, where we got wood and water. An hour before
day on the 19th, we departed by means of our oars, the wind being
contrary; but at sunrise the wind became fair, and we sailed 50 miles
along shore to a place called _Darboni_, where we came to anchor in 7
fathoms water. Being calm, we coasted along by rowing till noon, when a
breeze sprang up, and then using our sails, we came to anchor in 10
fathoms water by sunset at a place called _Yasuf_, belonging to Mecca.
On the 21st we proceeded 60 miles, and anchored in 40 fathoms, at a
place called _Khofadan_, in the dominions, of Mecca. The 22d the
navigation being much encumbered with sand banks, so thick together and
intricate that it was hardly possible to sail in the day, the Pacha
ordered six gallies to lead-the way, and we came to a shelf or shoal
called _Turakh_. The 23d we coasted along, still among shoals, the
channel being so narrow that only one galley could pass at a time; and
cast anchor at a place named _Salta_ in 4 fathoms, having ran fifty
miles. Sailing 30 miles farther along the coast on the 24th, we anchored
at noon in the port of _Mazabraiti_ in 6 fathoms, near a place called
_Ariadan_ inhabited by peasants who are subject to Mecca. On the 25th we
weighed anchor early, and endeavoured to proceed along the coast; but
the wind getting up at sunrise and proving contrary, we had to stand out
to sea till noon, when we again made for the land, off which we cast
anchor early in the evening.


SECTION IX.

_Continuation of the Voyage to Suez, along the Arabian Shore of the Red
Sea_.


We remained at anchor during the whole of the 26th and proceeded two
hours before day of the 27th, in very pleasant weather, and at eight
o'clock, having sailed 30 miles, we anchored in 4 fathoms at a place
called _Yusuma_. The 28th we coasted along the land till noon with a
fair wind, and then entered among certain banks two miles from the
shore, where we could not let go our anchors for fear of losing them,
being off a place named _Mukare_, 30 miles from Yusuma. The 29th, still
coasting along, we came among other shoals called _Balir_, thirty-five
miles farther on. The 30th continuing along shore till evening, we
anchored in 12 fathoms at a place called _Mukhi_, having proceeded 35
miles. Departing on the 31st with a calm two hours before day, the wind
springing up at sunrise, and in the evening we came to _Ziden_ or
_Jiddah_ the sea-port of Mecca. The Pacha landed on the 1st of April,
and pitched his tents on the outside of the town, where he rested four
days. On the 7th he rode away for Mecca, on pilgrimage, leaving orders
for the fleet to proceed to Suez[240]. On the 8th the fleet was driven
two miles out to sea by a contrary wind, and was obliged to come to
anchor among the shoals. Remaining here till the 11th, we made sail with
a fair wind, and at the _twentieth_ hour came into the port of _Contror
Abehin_, where one of our gallies was sunk in attempting to double a
point of land. At this place a carpenter belonging to the Venetian
gallies of Alexandria, named Mark, turned Mahometan and remained behind.
Having staid here two days, we proceeded again with a fair wind along
shore, and cast anchor in 12 fathoms at a place called _Amomuskhi_, 70
miles farther. Setting sail on the 15th two hours before day, the
_Moorish captains_ galley got aground on a bank, but was towed off by
the boats belonging to the other ships, without having received any
damage. We then coasted along the land 30 miles, to a place called
_Raban_ or _Robon_, where we cast anchor in 13 fathoms. From the 16th to
the 20th both inclusive, we left this place every day, and were always
forced to return by contrary winds. The 21st we departed with an off
shore wind; but at the sixth hour of the day were again driven towards
the coast by a contrary wind, and obliged to put in among certain banks
where we remained all night.

[Footnote 240: It does not appear that the Pacha ever rejoined his
fleet. It has been already mentioned from De Faria, that on his return
to Turkey he was reduced to the necessity of killing himself. "Cruel and
tyrannical men like him, says De Faria, should always be their own
executioners." - E.]

The 22d we coasted along by favour of a land breeze; but the wind coming
contrary were obliged to anchor at a place called _Farsi_, having only
advanced 16 miles. The 23d we continued along the coast till noon, when
the wind changed full in our teeth, and we had to come to anchor at a
place named _Sathan_, having sailed 25 miles that day. The 24th we
proceeded along the coast till noon, when the wind became again
contrary, and we were driven to the coast, and came to _Lorma_, 30 miles
beyond Sathan. We rowed along shore against the wind on the 25th, and
came at evening to _Yamboa_[241]. This place affords provisions,
particularly fish and dates. Their water is kept in cisterns, and has to
be brought on camels from a place a days journey distant, as there are
no wells or springs. A days journey[242] inland from this place is a
large town named _Medinah_, or _Medinat al Nubi_, where is the sepulchre
of Mahomet, though commonly said to be at Mecca[243]. We remained at
Yamboa six days, and set sail at four o'clock on the 1st of May; but
after proceeding only 10 miles the wind became contrary, and we had to
anchor among some shoals, where we staid two days. During the 3d and
4th, we had to stand off and on, beating up against a contrary wind; and
so continued for _six_ days, advancing only eight miles in all that
time. The 10th and 11th, the wind being still contrary, we made only 10
miles, and anchored in a different place. Proceeding along the coast on
the 13th, we came up with a galleon which left _Zabid_ before the rest
of the fleet. The pilots name was _Mikali_, and some of those on board
belonged to the Venetian gallies of Alexandria.

[Footnote 241: Called _Jombu_ in the edition of Aldus, and _Jambut_ by
Rarmusio. This is Yembo, Yambo, or Yamboa, the Italians using the _J_
instead of the _Y_. Yamboa is the port of _Medina, Medinah_, or _Medinat
al Nubi_, signifying _the city_, or the city of the prophet. - Astl. I.
100. c.]

[Footnote 242: Medina is at least 90 miles inland from Yamboa, which
cannot be less than _three_ ordinary days journeys. - E.]

[Footnote 243: This error has been long since corrected, yet many
travellers still persist in placing the tomb of Mahomet at Mecca. - Astl.
I. 100. d. - Christian travellers are debarred from visiting the holy
cities of Mecca and Medina. At Mecca the grand object of pilgrimage is
the _Caaba_ or holy house, containing _a black stone_, the remains of
the ancient Pagan superstition of the Arabians: Perhaps the same with
the _Lingam_ or _Priapus_ of the Hindoos. - E.]

The 14th, we sailed 10 miles[244] along the coast, and cast anchor in 7
fathoms at a place named _Sikhabo_. The 15th we sailed 70 miles N.W. and
came to anchor in the open sea. The 16th, we sailed along the coast 30
miles, and anchored at a place named _Buducktor_ or _Bubuktor_. The 17th
sailing 30 miles along the coast, we anchored in 20 fathoms in the open
sea, near an island called _Yenamani_. Going 20 miles along shore on the
18th, we anchored for the night off _Khifate_. We proceeded 50 miles
along shore on the 19th, and anchored at _Molin_. The 20th, we anchored
at sea 25 miles farther. Proceeding 48[245] miles on the 21st along
shore, we anchored in the evening out at sea. The 22d, after sailing 10
miles, we anchored again at sea. Being in a very bad anchorage, we
proceeded again on the 24th with a tolerably good wind. The half galley
left an anchor and three cables at this last anchorage, and one galley
ran aground but was got off. After advancing only 10 miles, we came to
anchor in 8 fathoms with good ground, and remained two days. Proceeding
85 miles along the coast on the 26th, we came to anchor in a road-stead.

[Footnote 244: In Ramusio this distance is made 60 miles. - Astl. I. 100.
e.]

[Footnote 245: Only 40 miles, in the copy published by Ramusio. - Astl.
I. 100. f.]


SECTION X.

_Conclusion of the Voyage to Suez, and return of the Venetians to
Cairo_.


On the 27th of May we proceeded on our voyage, sailing W.N.W. At noon we
were abreast of _Tor_ or _Al Tor_, and continued our course for two
hours after night-fall, when the wind came foul, on which we lay too
till day-light, when the _Moorish captain_ set sail again, and the other
gallies weighed anchor and hoisted their foresails. After running 100
miles we came to shoal water where we cast anchor in 6 fathoms, and
remained five days waiting for a fair wind. Leaving the bank on the 3d
of June, and holding on our course, we cast anchor sometimes on the
western coast[246] and sometimes on the eastern, having contrary winds,
and on the 15th we arrived at _Korondol_, where Pharaoh and his host
were drowned, and where are the baths of Moses as they are called. We
took in water at this place, where we staid two days. The 16th, the
fleet sailed from Korondol, and continuing its course for two days
together, we arrival at Suez on the 17th of May 1589, whence we had set
out on the 27th of June in the former year.

[Footnote 246: In the original called the _Abyssinian_ coast, but
certainly that of Egypt. - E.]

On the day of our arrival, we began to draw the barks on shore. The 2d
of June we began to haul up the large galley, and next the half galley
of the Pacha, all the rest being unrigged and drawn up successively. On
this occasion the whole labour rested on the Christians, who acted as
porters and worked all the tackle for unloading, cleaning and unrigging
all the vessels: In short the entire fatigue lay upon their shoulders.
On the 16th, the _Lemin_[247] came and paid off all the seamen,
Christians as well as Turks, giving 180 maidans to each. The 19th of
August, the _Emin_, accompanied by seven boats, went to Tor to pay off
the gallies which remained behind, taking with him all the best and
strongest of the Christian mariners to navigate these gallies to Suez,
as they were in a manner disarmed, many of their crews having died and
others run off. At Tor all were paid off, and the Christians were
distributed among the gallies, which they brought up to Suez on the 20th
of October, and were all drawn up by the Christians, who worked hard
both day and night. On the 26th, all the gallies being hauled up, the
cables, rigging, tackle, iron work, planks, small cannon, and all the
other stores were carried into the castle of Suez.

[Footnote 247: In Ramusio the _Emin_, who is an officer of the treasury,
or the pay-master. - Astley, I. 101. a. - Probably _Al Emin_, and
originally written in _Italian L'Emin_. - E.]

The Red Sea, from Suez to its mouth extends 1800 miles in length; the
coast running all the way from N.W. to S.E.[248] This gulf is 200 miles
broad, and in some places more. In its whole length it is full of banks,
shoals, and shelves, towards the land on both sides, so that it cannot
be navigated by night, except in the middle. These obstructions are so
intricately disposed that the channels can only be discovered by the
eye, nor can the proper course be taken except by means of an
experienced pilot standing constantly on the _prow_, and calling out
_starboard_ or _larboard_[249] according to circumstances. Owing to
this, the return voyage does not admit of being described so accurately
as the outward bound. There are two distinct kinds of pilots for this
sea; the one being acquainted with the middle of the gulf, which is the
passage outwards; and the others, called _Rubani_, are for ships
returning from the ocean, and navigating within the shoals. These are
such excellent swimmers, that in many places where they cannot cast
anchor on account of foul ground, they will swim under water and fix the
gallies within the shoals, and will often even fasten the prows under
water, according to the nature of the place[250].

[Footnote 248: From Suez to the Straits of _Bab-al-Mandub_, the direct
distance is about 1590 statute English miles, or 1200 geographical
miles, 60 to the degree. From the Straits to _Cape Guardafu_ is about
433 English miles farther, or 375 geographical: Making in all 1825 of
the former and 1575 of the latter. The direction is S.S.E. - E.]

[Footnote 249: In the original Italian, _Orza_ and _Poggia_, being the
names of the ropes at the yard-arms which are hauled when these words
are pronounced. - Astl. I. 101. b.]

[Footnote 250: The expression in the text is not very obvious, but seems
to indicate that these _Rubani_ are such excellent divers as to be able
to fasten ropes or hausers to the rocks below water. - E.]

On the 28th. of November 1539, the Christians belonging to the Venetian
gallies left Suez, and arrived at Cairo on the 1st of December, where
they were lodged in the same house that they had formerly occupied. Each
of them was allowed half a _maidan_ daily for subsistence, which is
equal to about twopence of Venice. They here suffered great affliction
and fatigue, as whatever laborious work was to be performed was devolved
upon them. Clearing out the water-cisterns, levelling hills, putting
gardens in order, new buildings, and such like, all fell to their share.
On the 25th of March 1540, many of the Christians went from Cairo with a
guard of Turks to a hill or mount two miles from the Nile, which seemed
to have been a burying-place like the _Campo Santo_, where every year,
on the Friday before our _Lady of August_[251], a vast number of people
assemble to see dead bodies rise out of the ground. This resurrection
begins on Thursday evening, and lasts till Saturday at six o'clock,
during which time great numbers rise; but after that no more appear.
When they do rise, some are rolled about with linen bandages in the
manner in which the ancients swathed their dead. It must not be imagined
that these dead bodies move, and still less that they walk about. But,
one instant you may observe and touch the arm or the leg of one, or some
other part, and going away for a moment, you will find at your return
the part you had formerly seen and touched still more exposed, or
farther out of the ground than at first; and this will happen as often
as you make the experiment. On that day, many tents are pitched about
this mount, and thither many persons repair, sick as well as healthy;
and near this place there is a pond in which the people bathe on the
Friday night, in order to get cured of their infirmities. _For my own
part, I did not see these miracles_.

[Footnote 251: The 15th of August, the Assumption of the Virgin. - E.]


CHAPTER III.

THE VOYAGE OF DON STEFANO DE GAMA FROM GOA TO SUEZ, IN 1540, WITH THE
INTENTION OF BURNING THE TURKISH GALLIES AT THAT PORT. WRITTEN BY DON
JUAN DE CASTRO, THEN A CAPTAIN IN THE FLEET; AFTERWARDS GOVERNOR-GENERAL
OF PORTUGUESE INDIA[252].

INTRODUCTION.


Don Juan or Joam De Castro, the author of the following journal, was a
Portuguese nobleman born in 1500; being the son of Don Alvaro de Castro,
governor of the Chancery, and Donna Leonora de Noronha, daughter of Don
Joam de Almeyda, Count of Abrantes. In his youth, Don Juan de Castro
served with reputation at Tangier, and on his return home had a
commandery of 500 ducats of yearly revenue conferred upon him, which was
all he was ever worth, though a man of high birth and rare merit. He
afterwards served under the Emperor Charles V. in his expedition against
Tunis, and refused his share of a pecuniary reward from that prince to
the Portuguese officers on the expedition, saying that he served the
king of Portugal, and accepted rewards only from his own sovereign.
After this he commanded a fleet on the coast of Barbary, and was sent to
join the fleet of Spain for the relief of Ceuta. On hearing that the
Moors were approaching, the Spaniards wished to draw off, on pretence of
consulting upon the manner of giving battle, but Don Juan refused to
quit his post; and the Moors retired, not knowing that the fleets had
separated, so that he had all the honour of relieving Ceuta.

[Footnote 252: Astley, I. 107. Purchas, II. 1422.]

When Don Garcia de Noronha went viceroy to India, Don John was captain
of one of the ships in his fleet; and when about to embark, the king
sent him a commission by which he was appointed governor of Ormuz, and a
gift of 1000 ducats to bear his charges till he obtained possession. He
accepted the latter, because he was poor; but refused the government,
saying that he had not yet deserved it. After the expedition to
Suez[253], contained in the present chapter, he returned into Portugal,
and lived for some time in retirement in a country house near Cintra,
giving himself up entirely to study. He was recalled from this retreat
by the advice of the infant Don _Luys_, and sent out governor-general to
India in 1545; where he died with the title of viceroy in 1548, when 48
years of age. We shall hereafter have occasion to speak farther of this
great man, who made himself illustrious in the _second_ siege of Diu by
the forces of the king of Guzerat. In his life, written by _Jacinto
Freire de Andrada_, there is a particular account of this siege, with a
map to illustrate its operations. The author also treats of the
Discoveries, Government, Commerce, and affairs of the Portuguese in
India. This book was translated into English, and published in folio at
London in 1664.

[Footnote 253: De Faria in his Portuguese Asia, says that Don Juan went
up to Mount Sinai, where his son Don Alvaro was knighted. But this does
not appear in his journal. - Astl. I. 107. a.]

Such was the illustrious author of the following journal, which was
never published in Portuguese; but having been found, if we are rightly
informed, on board a Portuguese ship taken by the English, was
afterwards translated and published by Purchas. Purchas tells us that
the original was reported to have been purchased by Sir Walter Raleigh
for sixty pounds; that Sir Walter got it translated, and afterwards, as
he thinks, amended the diction and added many marginal notes. Purchas
himself reformed the style, but with caution as he had not the original
to consult, and abbreviated the whole, in which we hope he used equal
circumspection: For, as it stands in Purchas[254] it still is most
intolerably verbose, and at the same time scarcely intelligible in many
places; owing, we apprehend, to the translator being not thoroughly
acquainted with the meaning of the original, if not to the fault of the
abbreviator. These two inconveniences we have endeavoured to remedy the
best we could, and though we have not been always able to clear up the
sense, we presume to have succeeded for the most part; and by entirely
changing the language, except where the places were obscure, we have
made the journal more fit for being read, and we hope without doing it
any manner of injury[255].

[Footnote 254: Pilgrims, Vol. II. p. 1122, under the title of _A
Rutter_, or Journal, &c. from India to Suez, dedicated to the Infant Don
_Luys_. - Astl. I. 107. b.]

[Footnote 255: On the present occasion we have followed the example of
the Editor of Astleys Collection, having employed the original
abbreviated translation by Purchas modernized in the language and
endeavouring to elucidate obscurities; using as our assistance the
version in Astley. - E.]

This expedition was undertaken for two important purposes. _One_, to
carry succours to the emperor of _Habash_ or Abyssinia; and the _other_,
to endeavour to destroy the Turkish ships at Suez. For, soon after the
retreat of Solyman Pacha from Diu, it was rumoured that another fleet of
the _Rumes_ or Turks was on its way to India; but as Don Stefano de Gama
was afterwards informed that the Turks could not set out during the year
1540, he determined to be before hand with them, in some measure to be
revenged for the late siege of Diu, and to prevent a second attack by
burning the fleet they had prepared for that purpose. The governors
liberality brought more men to inlist under his banners than he desired,
so that he was enabled to select the best. The fleet consisted of 80
sail of different sorts and sizes, and carried 2000 soldiers besides
mariners and rowers. On coming into the Red Sea, he found most of the
cities and islands abandoned, the inhabitants having notice of his
coming. At Suakem, the sheikh or king, who had retired a league up the
country, amused De Gama with pretences of peace, that he might not
destroy the town and island. In consequence of this delay, De Gama was
prevented from carrying his design into execution of destroying the
ships at Suez; as it afforded time for the Turks to receive intelligence
of the expedition. This is the account given by De Faria; but Bermudas
gives a different reason for the want of success in that design, as De
Gama could not get at the ships, which were all drawn up on the land,
which we have already seen to have been the case, in the journal of the
voyage of Solyman Pacha, in the immediately preceding chapter.

In revenge for the duplicity and delay of the sheikh of Suakem, De Gama
marched into the interior with 1000 men, accompanied by his brother Don
Christopher, and defeated the sheikh with great slaughter. He then
plundered the city of Suakem, where many of the private men got booty to
the value of four or five thousand ducats, and then burnt it to the
ground. From thence, he went towards Suez with only sixteen, _Katurs_
or Malabar barges, and sent back the fleet to Massua under the command
of Lionel de Lima. On this occasion, there was a great dispute, as every
one strove to go on this expedition; whence the bay got the name of
_Angra de los Aggraviadas_, or _bay of the offended_. Many gentlemen
went in the barges as private soldiers or volunteers, willing to go in
any capacity if only they were admitted. The number of men on this
fruitless expedition was 250. They plundered and burnt _Cossier_ or _Al
Kossir_; whence crossing to _Tor_ or _Al Tur_, they took some vessels
belonging to the enemy. At first the Turks opposed their landing; but
some of them being slain, the rest abandoned the city, in which nothing
was found of value. De Gama did not burn this town, in reverence for the
relics of St Catharine and the monastery and religious men there, which
he visited at their request. He was the first European commander who had
taken that city, where he knighted several of his followers, an honour
much prized by those who received it, and which was envied; afterwards
even by the emperor Charles V. From thence De Gama proceeded to Suez;
and after many brave but fruitless attempts to sound the harbour, De
Gama determined to go himself in open day to view the gallies. He
accordingly landed and saw the enemies but endeavouring to force his way
towards them, the enemies shot poured thick from the town, and 2000
Turkish horse broke out from an ambush, by which the Portuguese were
reduced to great straits. Though the Portuguese cannon slew a good many