great deal that we did not understand, making signs that they would not
remove our cross.
The weather becoming fair next day, the 25th July, we left that
port[35], and after getting out of the river, we sailed to the E.N.E.
the land forming a semicircular bay, the extremities lying S.E. and N.W.
From Monday the 27th of the month, we went along this land, till on
Wednesday the 29th we came to another cape, after which the land turned
to the east for about 15 leagues, and then turned to the north. We
sounded about three leagues from this cape, and had ground at 24
fathoms. The land on this part of the coast seems better and freer of
woods, than any we had seen, having fine green fields and fair meadows.
We named this land Cape St Alvise, because first seen on the day of that
saint. It is in lat. 49° 30' N. On Wednesday morning, being to the east
of that cape, whence we sailed N.W. till night, keeping near the land,
which trends from south to north for about 15 leagues to another cape,
which we named _Memorancie_, after which the coast trends to the N.W.
About 3 leagues from this cape we tried soundings, but had no bottom
with a line of 150 fathoms. We went along this coast to the lat. of 50°
N. At sunrise of Saturday 1st August, we had sight of other land lying
north and north-east, which was high, craggy, and mountainous, having
low land interposed, with woods and rivers. We continued along this
coast, still trending N.W. to look for a gulf or passage, till the 5th
of the month; but we had great difficulty to advance five miles in all
that time, the wind and tide being both adverse. At the end of these
five miles, we could plainly see land on both sides, which appeared to
spread out; but as we were unable to work up to windward, we proceeded
to another cape to the southward, being the farthest out to sea within
sight, and about five leagues from us. On coming up to this head-land,
we found it nothing but rocks, stones, and craggy cliffs, such as we had
not seen the like of since leaving Cape St Johns. The tide being now in
our favour carried our ships to the westwards against the wind, when
suddenly one of our boats struck on a rock and overset, so that our
people had to leap out and set it to right again. After going along this
coast for two hours, the tide turned against us, so that it was
impossible to advance any farther with all our oars. We went therefore
to land, leaving 10 or 12 of our people to keep the boats, and going by
land to the cape, we observed the land beyond to trend S.W. After this
we returned to our boats, and then to the ships, which had drifted four
leagues to leeward of the place where we left them.
[Footnote 35: In a side-note, Hakluyt expresses an opinion that this
harbour is what is now called Gaspay, or Gaspe Bay in lat. 48° 44' N.,
near Cape Rosiers, the south cape of the river St Lawrence. - E.]
On our return to the ships, we convened a council of all the officers
and experienced mariners, to have their opinion of what was best for us
to do in the farther execution of our instructions. The general opinion
was, considering that the east winds seemed now set in, and that the
currents were so much against us, we could not expect to advance to any
purpose in exploring the coast; and as storms and tempests began to
prevail in Newfoundland, where we were so far from home, we must resolve
either to return to France immediately, or to remain where we were
during the winter. Having duly weighed the various opinions, we resolved
to return home. The place where we now were, we named St Peters
Straits[36], in which we found very deep water; being in some places 150
fathoms, in others 100, and near the shore 60, with clear ground. From
thence for some days we had a prosperous gale of wind, _so that we
trended the said north shore east, south-east, west-north-west_[37], for
such is the situation of it, except one cape of low land, about 25
leagues from St Peters Strait, which bends more towards the south-east.
We noticed smoke on that cape, made by the natives; but as the wind blew
fresh toward the coast, we did not venture to approach them, and twelve
of the savages came off to us in two canoes. They came freely on board,
and gave us to understand that they came from the great gulf under a
chief named _Tiennot_, who was then on the low cape, and were then about
to return loaded with fish to their own country, whence we had come with
our ships. We named the low head land Cape Tiennot, after the name of
their chief. The land in this place was all low and pleasant, with a
sandy beach for about 20 leagues, intermixed with marshes and shallow
lakes. After this it turned from west to E.N.E. everywhere environed
with islands two or three leagues from shore; and as far as we could
see, many dangerous shelves extended above four or five leagues out to
sea.
[Footnote 36: Cartier seems now to have returned to the south coast of
Newfoundland, but the relation of his voyage is too vague to be followed
with any tolerable certainty. - E.]
[Footnote 37: The sentence in italics is given in the precise words of
Hakluyt, probably signifying that the coast extended from E.S.E. to
W.N.W. - E.]
During the three following days we had a strong gale from the S.W. which
obliged us to steer E.N.E. and on the Saturday we came to the eastern
part of Newfoundland, between the _Granges_ and _Double_ Cape[38]. The
wind now blew a storm from the east, on which account we doubled that
cape to the N.N.W. to explore the northern part, which is all environed
with islands, as already stated. While near these islands and the land,
the wind turned to the south, which brought us within the gulf, so that
next day, being the 9th of August, we entered by the blessing of God
within the _White Sands_. Thus ended our discoveries in this voyage. On
the feast of the Assumption of our Lady, being the 15th of August, after
hearing divine service, we departed from the White Sands with a
prosperous gale, directing our course across the sea which lies between
Newfoundland and Brittany. In this passage we were much tossed during
three days by a heavy tempest from the east, which we weathered by the
blessing of God. After this we had fair weather, and arrived on the 5th
of September in the port of St Maloes.
[Footnote 38: Probably that now called _Mistaken Points_, near Cape
Race, which latter is the south-eastern point of Newfoundland - E.]
_Specimen of the language of Newfoundland._
The sun, _isnez_ Heaven, _camet_
Night, _aiagla_ Water, _ame_
Sand, _estogaz_ A sail, _aganie_
The head, _agonaze_ The throat, _conguedo_
The nose, _hehonguesto_ The teeth, _hesangue_
The nails, _agetascu_ The feet, _ochedasco_
The legs, _anoudasco_ A dead man, _amocdaza_
A skin, _aionasca_ That man, _yca_
A hatchet, _asogne_ A cod fish, _gadagoursere_
Good to be eaten, _guesande_ Almonds, _anougaza_
Figs, _asconda_ Gold, _henyosco_
An arrow, _cacta_ A green tree, _haveda_
An earthen dish, _undaco_ Brass, _aignetaze_
The brow, _ausce_ A feather, _yco_
The moon, _casmogan_ The earth, _conda_
Wind, _canut_ Rain, _ocnoscon_
Bread, _cacacomy_ The sea, _amet_
A ship, _casaomy_ A man, _undo_
The hairs, _hoc hosco_ Red cloth, _caponeta_
The eyes, _ygata_ A knife, _agoheda_
The mouth, _heche_ A mackarel, _agedoneta_
The ears, _hontasco_ Nuts, _caheya_
The arms, _agescu_ Apples, _honesta_
A woman, _enrasesco_ Beans, _sahe_
A sick man, _alouedeche_ A sword, _achesco_
Shoes, _atta_
SECTION II.
_The second voyage of Jacques Cartier, to Canada, Hochelega, Saguenay,
and other lands now called New France; with the Manners and Customs of
the Natives_.
On Whitsunday, the 16th of May 1535, by command of our captain, Jacques
Cartier, and by common consent, we confessed our sins and received the
holy sacrament in the cathedral of St Maloes; after which, having all
presented ourselves in the Quire, we received the blessing of the lord
bishop, being in his robes. On Wednesday following, the 19th of that
month, we set sail with a favourable gale. Our squadron consisted of
three ships. The great _Hermina_ of an hundred to an hundred and twenty
tons, of which Jacques Cartier was captain and general of the
expedition, Thomas Frosmont chief master, accompanied by Claudius de
Pont Briand, son to the lord of Montceuell cupbearer to the Dauphin,
Charles de Pomeraies, John Powlet, and other gentlemen. In the second
ship of sixty tons, called the Little Hermina, Mace Salobert and William
Marie were captains under the orders of our general. The third ship of
forty tons, called the Hermerillon, was commanded by William Britton and
James Maingare. The day after we set sail, the prosperous gale was
changed into storms and contrary winds, with darksome fogs, in which we
suffered exceedingly till the 25th of June, when our three ships lost
sight of each other, and never rejoined again till after our arrival at
Newfoundland. We in the generals ship continued to be tossed about by
contrary winds till the 7th of July, when we made the island of
Birds[39], 14 leagues from the main of Newfoundland. This island is so
full of birds that our ships might have been loaded with them, and the
quantity taken away not missed. We took away two boat loads, to increase
our sea stores. The Isle of Birds is in lat. 49° 40' N.
[Footnote 39: Already supposed to be that now called Funk Island, in
lat. 50° N. - E.]
We left this island with a fair wind on the eighth of July, and came to
the harbour of White Sands, or Blanc Sablon, in the Grand Bay or Baye
des Chateaux, where the rendezvous of the squadron had been appointed.
We remained here till the 26th of July, when both of the other ships
joined us, and we then laid in a stock of wood and water for enabling us
to proceed on our voyage. Every thing being in readiness, we set sail
from the White Sands early in the morning of the 29th, and sailing along
the northern coast, which runs from S.W. to N.E. we passed by two
islands, lying farther out than the others, which we named St Williams
Islands, being twenty leagues or more from the port called Brest. All
the coast from the Bay of Castles to that place, _lies E. and W. - N.E.
and S.W._ off which there are sundry small islands, the whole being
stony and barren, without soil or trees, except in a few narrow vallies.
Next day, we sailed twelve leagues and a half westwards, in search of
other islands, among which there is a great bay towards the north, all
full of islands and great creeks, among which there seemed to be many
good harbours. We named these the Islands of St Martha, off which, about
a league and a half farther out to sea, there is a dangerous shallow,
and about seven leagues from the islands of St Martha, _on the east and
on the west_, as you pass to these islands, there are five rocks. We
passed these about one in the afternoon; and from that time till
midnight, we sailed about 15 leagues, passing to the south-eastwards of
a cape of the lower islands, which we named St Germans Islands; about
three leagues from which cape there is a very dangerous shallow.
Likewise between Cape St Germans and Cape St Martha, about two leagues
from the before-mentioned islands, there is a bank of sand on which the
water is only four fathoms deep. On account of the dangerous nature of
this coast, we struck sail and came to anchor for the rest of the night.
Next day, being the last of July, we went along all that part of the
coast which runs east and west, or somewhat south-easterly, all of which
is beset with islands and dry sands, and is consequently of very
dangerous navigation. The distance from Cape St Germans to these islands
is about 17-1/2 leagues, beyond which is a _goodly plot of ground_[40],
surrounded by large tall trees; but all the rest of the coast is
encompassed with sand-banks, without any appearance of harbours till we
come to Cape _Thiennot_, about 7 leagues north-west from these islands.
Having noted this cape in our former voyage, we sailed on all this night
to the west and west-north-west till day; and as the wind then became
contrary, we looked out for a harbour in which to shelter our ships, and
found one for our purpose which we named Port St Nicholas. This port
lies amid four islands off the main-land, and we set up a cross on the
nearest of these islands as a land-mark or beacon. In entering Port St
Nicholas, this cross must be brought to bear N.E. and passed on the left
hand of the steersman, by which means you find six fathom water in the
passage, and four within the port. Care must be taken however to avoid
two shelves which stretch out about half a league to seawards.
[Footnote 40: From the context, I suspect the author here means that
there was good anchorage at this place. - E.]
The whole of this coast is full of dangerous shoals, yet having the
deceitful appearance of many good havens. We remained at Port St
Nicholas till Sunday the 7th of August, when we made sail and approached
the land southwards by Cape Rabart, which is twenty leagues from Port St
Nicholas S.S.W. Next day the wind became boisterous and contrary, and as
we could not find any haven to the southward, we coasted along northward
about ten leagues beyond Port St Nicholas, where we found a goodly great
gulf, full of islands, passages and entrances, answerable for any wind
whatever. This gulf may easily be known by a great island resembling a
cape, stretching somewhat farther out than the other islands, and about
two leagues inland there is a hill which resembles a corn rick. We named
this the Gulf of St Lawrence. On the 12th of the month, we sailed
westwards from this gulf, and discovered a cape of land toward the
south, about 25 leagues W. and by S. from the Gulf of St Lawrence. The
two savages whom we took with us on our former voyage, informed us that
this cape formed part of the great southern coast; and that, by the
southern part of an island which they pointed out, was the way to Canada
from Honguedo, whence we took them last year. They said farther, that at
two days journey from this cape and island the Kingdom of _Saguenay_
began. On the north shore of this island, extending towards Canada, and
about three leagues off this cape, there are above 100 fathoms water;
and I believe there never were as many whales seen at once as we saw
that day around this cape. Next day, the 15th of August, having passed
the strait, we had notice of certain lands which we had left towards the
south, which are full of extensive high hills. We named the
before-mentioned cape the Island of Assumption; from which one cape of
the before-mentioned high country trends E.N.E. and W.S.W. distant 25
leagues. The northern country, for more than thirty leagues in length,
is obviously higher than that which is to the southwards. We coasted
along the southern lands till noon of the 17th, when the wind came round
to the west; after which we steered for the northern coast which we had
before seen, and found it low toward the sea, and the northern range of
mountains within this low land stretch from east to west one quarter
south. Our two savages informed us that Saguenay began here, which is an
inhabited land producing copper, which they call _caignetdaze_. The
distance between the southern and northern lands is about 30 leagues,
and the gulf between is above 200 fathoms deep. The savages informed us
likewise that the great river _Hochelega_[41] began here, by which was
the direct way to Canada; and which river becomes always narrower as we
approach towards Canada, where the water is fresh. They said farther
that it penetrates so far inland that they had never heard of any one
who had reached its head. On considering their account, our captain
resolved to proceed no farther at this time, more especially as they
said there was no other passage, meaning to examine in the first place
the northern coast between the Gulf of St Lawrence and this great river,
to see if any other passage could be discovered.
[Footnote 41: The river now called the St Lawrence. - E.]
We accordingly turned back on Wednesday the 18th of August along the
northern coast, which trends from N.E. to S.W. like half of a bow, and
is very high land, yet not so high as the southern coast. Next day we
came to seven high round islands, which we named the _Seven Isles_,
which stretch 3 or 4 leagues out to sea, and are 40 leagues from the
southern shore of the gulf. Over against these, the northern shore
consists of good low grounds full of fine trees, having various
sand-banks almost dry at low water, and reaching two leagues from shore.
At the farther extremity of these low lands, which, continue for ten
leagues, there is a river of fresh water which runs with such rapidity
into the sea that the water is quite fresh a league from its mouth.
Entering this river with our boats, we had about a fathom and half water
at its mouth. In this river we found many _fishes_ resembling horses,
which our savages told us lay all day in the water and went on shore at
night. We set sail at day-break of the 21st, continuing our progress
along the northern coast of the gulf which we traced the whole of that
day to the north-east, and then stood over to the Island of
Assumption[42], being assured that no passage was to be found in that
direction. Returning to the harbour at the Seven Islands, which has 9 or
10 fathoms water, we were detained there by mists and contrary winds
till the 24th, when we stood over to the southern coast, and came to a
harbour about 80 leagues from these islands. This harbour is over
against three flat islands in the middle of the river, between which
islands and the harbour there is a very great river which runs between
high and low lands. For more than three leagues out to sea there are
many dangerous shelves, leaving not quite two fathoms water, so that the
entrance is very dangerous; yet near these shelves the water is from 15
to 20 fathoms deep from shore to shore. All the _northern_[43] coast
runs from N.E. and by N. to S.W. and by S. This haven is but of small
value, as it is only formed by the tide of flood, and is inaccessible at
low water. We named the three small flat islets _St Johns Isles_,
because we discovered them on the day of St John the Baptists
decapitation. Before coming to this haven, there is an island about 5
leagues to the eastward, between which and the land there is no passage
except for small boats. The best station for ships in this harbour is to
the south of a little island and almost close to its shore. The tide
here flows at least two fathoms, but ships have to lie aground at low
water.
[Footnote 42: The island here called Assumption, certainly is that now
called Anticosti, a term formed or corrupted from the native name
Natiscotec. - E.]
[Footnote 43: It is probable that we should here read the _southern_
coast. - E.]
Leaving this harbour on the 1st of September, we proposed sailing for
Canada; and at about 15 leagues W.S.W. we came to three islands, over
against which is a deep and rapid river, which our two savages told as
leads to the country and kingdom of Saguenay[44]. This river runs
between very high and steep hills of bare rock, with very little soil;
yet great numbers of trees grow among these rocks, as luxuriantly as if
upon level and fertile land, insomuch that some of them would make masts
for vessels of 30 tons. At the mouth of this river we met four canoes
full of savages, who seemed very fearful of us, and some of them even
went away. One of the canoes however, ventured to approach within hail,
when one of our savages spoke to the people, telling his name, on which
they came to us. Next day, leaving that river we proceeded on for
Canada; and in consequence of the rapidity of the tide, we found the
navigation very dangerous; more especially as to the southward of that
river there are two islands, around which for above three leagues there
are many rocks and great stones, and only two fathoms water. Besides the
direction of the tide among these islands and rocks is very uncertain
and changeable; so that if it had not been for our boats, we had been in
great danger of losing our pinnace. In coasting along, we found above 30
fathoms water just off shore, except among these rocks and islands.
About 5 leagues beyond the river Saguenay, to the S.W. there is another
island on the north side containing high land, where we proposed to have
come to anchor in waiting for the next tide of flood, but we had no
ground with a line of 120 fathom only an arrow-shot from shore; so that
we were obliged to return to that island, where we had 35 fathoms. We
set sail again next morning to proceed onwards; and this day we got
notice of a strange kind of _fish_ which had never been seen before,
which are called _Adhothuys_ by the natives. They are about the bigness
of a porpoise, but no way like them, having well proportioned bodies and
heads like a greyhound, their whole bodies being entirely white without
spot. There are great numbers of them in this river, and they always
keep in the water, the natives saying that they are very savoury and
good eating, and are nowhere else to be found but in the mouth of this
river. On the 6th of September we proceeded about 15 leagues farther up
the river, where we found an island having a small haven towards the
north, around which there were innumerable large tortoises. There are
here likewise vast numbers of the _fish_ called _Adhothuys_, already
mentioned; and the rapidity of the tide at this place is as great as it
is at Bourdeaux in France. This island is about three leagues long and
two broad, all of rich fertile soil, having many fine trees of various
kinds; among which were many filbert trees, full of nuts, which we found
to be larger and better than ours but somewhat harder, on which account
we named it _Isle aux Condres_, or Filbert Island.
[Footnote 44: The Saguenay river runs into the north-west side of the St
Lawrence, in lat. 48° 7' N. long. 69° 9' W. - E.]
On the 7th of the month we went seven or eight leagues up the river from
Filbert Island to 14 other islands, where the country of Canada begins.
One of these islands is ten leagues long and five broad, thickly
inhabited by natives who live entirely by fishing in the river[45].
Having cast anchor between this island and the northern coast, we went
on shore accompanied by our two savages, whose names were Taignoagny and
Domagaia. At first the inhabitants of the island avoided us, till at
length our two savages got speech of some of them, telling who they
were, on which the natives seemed much rejoiced, dancing and singing and
shewing many other ceremonies; many of their chief men came now to our
boats, bringing great numbers of eels and other fishes, likewise two or
three burdens of _great millet_ or maize, and many very large
musk-melons. On the same day many canoes filled with natives, both men
and women, came to visit our two savages, all of whom were received in a
kindly manner by our captain, who gave them many things of small value
with which they were much gratified. Next day the lord of Canada came to
our ships with twelve canoes and many people; but causing ten of his
canoes to go back again, he came up to our ships with only two canoes
and sixteen men. The proper name of this person was Donnacona, but his
dignified name, as a lord or chief, was Agouhanna. On coming near the
smallest of our ships, he stood up in his canoe and made a long oration,
moving his body and limbs in an extraordinary manner, which among them
pass for signs of friendship and security. He then came up towards the
generals ship, in which were Taignoagny and Domagaia, with whom he
entered into conversation. These men related to him all that they had
seen in France, and what good treatment they had received in that
country, at all which Agouhanna seemed much pleased, and desired our
captain to hold out his arm for him to kiss. Our captain now went into
Agouhannas canoe, and made bread and wine be handed down to him, which
he offered to the chief and his followers, with which they were much