Boitze and the Elbe, on the south-east side
of a lonf{ low rido'c, scemincrlv formed of
sand, was our second stage, from which we
did not set out until five o'clock. The
countrv in front being a })crfect ])lam, I pre-
ceded the carriage on foot, guided by the
church spire of a small village, through
which we had to pass. Soon afterwards we
arrived on the banks of a small river, along
which v:c ])roceeded for some time, and were
then ferried over: when on the opposite side
notice was given on a board, that we were
in Hanover, this stream forming: the division
between it and Mecklenburg. Still the
country continues the same, everywhere
HAMBURG TO BERLIN. 4/
Hat. and sandv ; Nature not having here
Ibrmcd any of iicr urcat distinctions. The
peasants' houses now begin to be almost uni-
versally adorned at each end of the ridge of
ihe roof, with two pieces of board cro-sing
each other, rudely carved into the appear-
ance of hiorses' heads, as if the owners
were proud of being Hanoverians. Still I
observed th.e women labouring 1 are-legged
in the fields ; and the few villages which we
passed Vvcre miserable in their appearance.
About niid-driv we arrived at Lubtchen, a
poor ])lace on the skirts of a large wood,
througii vvhich \xc had been passing for about
an liour, ami distant fourteen miles from
Boitzcnbero-. 'J'he leaves on tlie trees in
the forest did not a])pear to me more forward
than those in England wlien I cjuittcd it.
After stopping as usual two or three hours
at Lubtchen, we proceeded, and about six
o'clock passed the A''er, a suiall stream, on
the banks of wh.icii was a strong station of
llussians and Cossacks. The Russian offi-
IS HAMBURG TO BERLIN'.
tXH's ran out to meet the ^tagc without hats,
their iarcs uii\vashc(], and their hair un-
comhccl and mattech After crossinri- the
Aher the country still continues tlic same,
tlat and sandy, but now more diversified
with woods (-f small pines. Nineteen miles
brought us, about half-past nine, to Lenzen,
the first town on this road in the Prussian
territories, and certainlv su])erior to any we
had seen in IIan')ver. It being fine moon-
liiiht I walked tbrou";h the streets, which I
found alreadv silent, while our passports
were examined. Here they still talked of
the great battle fought near jA'i])sig, in a
very confu^^ed ami doubtful manner, hut de-
cidedly claiming the victory, whieh^ how-
ever, did not yet a]i])ear to me sullicienlly
clear.
Owing to the usual tardiness we did not
leave lenzen till after midnight, and at t!ie
end of three-and-twcnty miles reached Per-
ii^berg, a neat little town u])on the .Stegnitz,
a snjall stream, and, like Boitzenber'j, situ-
HA.MIiURG TO BERMS. 40
dleCl near a low ridge, in the middle of a
fiat sandy country. In the markct-])lacc
stands a sufficicntlv" curious rude gigantic
statue, dated 154(), about twche feet in
height, of Roland, a Swcdisli general. The
countrv from Perlebero; bci'ins to be rather
more adorned with t^mall woods; still tlie
peasantry have a miserable appearance. Ail
ttiis morning I beheld peasant girls walking
bare-footed along tlic^ hot sands, roads they
cannot be called. x\t the end of ten miles,
about mid-day, we reached Klctzke, a poor
village, where wc halted. From Klctzke
tiie countrv, though sandy, becomes more
diversified by gentle undulations of the land.
now all green aixl mixed with large planta-
tion;? of pines. At ciuht in the cveiiin-'- we
reached the little town of Kyritz, a di: trince of
fourteen miles, and with diflicuily made our
way, m the principal sticet. tli rough flocks
of ewes and lambs, which seemed to be
i\fre collected ev^-ry night, a? in a ;:mal[
couutry village. Tlie bleating of the ani-
bfi HAMbrRG TO IJERLIN
mals lillcd the air^ while the inhabitants,
principallv women, running out of their
liouses witii long hooked sticks, formed a
bustling scene. Thus the flock passed on,
continually diminishino- until the whole
were housed.
A conversation which took place this day
among my fellow travellers gave me by no
means a favourable idea of their ])atriotism.
One of tlicm repeated in French, and witli
enthusiasm, the proclamation of Bonaparte
to his arjnv before beginning the campaign,
:;ii;l prai-cd its energy, especially when com-
',)arcd with those of dermany. That might
];e tr!;e ; but as in this notable harano;uc.
['>ona}>artc tells his soldiers that in a few
months the ]^nr>sian monarchy shoiud cease
Lo exist, lor having dared to excite Gei-manv
to revolt, it might have been cx]jected that
J (iegra(!iiig an expression would hav<*
r'lused at Ic.ist seme little indignation in
a (.Ti'iinan busom. What was my astonish-
"neat to hear it rrj3cated, without a sjng:le
HAMBURG TO BERLIN. 51
remark, except in its favour. It is clear, if
such sentiments be general throughout the
different races of Germany, and they can
thus patiently hear themselves treated as re-
volted slaves, not only that they are, but
that they must continue so. I trusted how-
ever to meet, as I proceeded, with a different
and a better spirit ; and began to regard my
companions as some merely of the degene-
rate children of Germany.
VVc left Kyritz at nine, and after travelling
all night and passing through Wusterhausen,
a distance of four miles, reached Fehrbellin,
u farther stage of fourteen miles, at four in,
the morning. A beautiful sun-rise adorned
the clouds with gold, to which I in vain
called the attention of my companions, who
seemed to wonder that I should contemplate
5o common a spectacle with any kind of de-
light. Fehrbellin is a tolerable town, situ-
ated partly on an ascent near the little Ftiver
Ilein, which we reach through a long avenua
of trees, I was struck with the church-yard;
K 2
5 2 HAMJ5URG TO BERLIN.
wliicli ^vas filled with little ])ieccs of board
iUnla^tically carved^ and variously ])aintcd,
and adorned witli the names and merits of
the dead. Here, uhilc survcsiiig a regi-
T!ient of Yairers preparing to march, I was
struck v.itii the appearance of two men in
the ^;rcnadier<, whose air was whollv difier-
etjt Irom that of Prussian soldiers, and whom
f thought I iieard pronounce some words in
Spanish. I accordin.giy accosted them in that
language, but was answered in Italian, that
diov had formed ])'n't of Bonaparte's army
which liad readied Moscow, and having
shared all tliC horrors of the subsecpjent
!elrecit, and lived for many davs e;itirelv on
raw hurs{!-iie>h, had at length fjund an op-
p''iti':ihtv of desei'ting, \vhich thev did not
l".-.il to ei;iiH-ace. '" Ah ! Signor." said one
of thorn to me in a dolchd tone, '• Napoleon
ehoiL^ed r.v tinelv. I had my sash lilled
'viih L^old, \-lneli I carried round mv wai.-t
d. )v :in(] niu'Iit f<^r several weeks. I3ut what
â– A.::, ill.: u-.j of gold when tliere was nolliina
HAMBURG TO BERLIN, 53
to be got for It, so that at length I was
obhgcd to leave it all behind, being hardly
able to cany myself along." He farther in-
formed me, that he had been established
at Modena as an apothecarv, but had been
obliged by the conseription to quit his
home, and march as a common soldier.
Asa })roof of this, he addressed a sentence
to me in Latin, which, although pronounced,
^uth hesitation, was still sulhcient to show
that he was somewhat versed in that lan-
ii'uafre. Such arc the objects of that tre-
mendous military law, which, as long as it
continues in force, must give France a de-
cided superioritv over all her neighbours in
the recruiting of lier armies, and furnish an
inexhaustible supply of men for the most
dt'Structivc designs of war and ambition.
llie distance from Fehrbellin to Berlin is
about thirty miles, chiefly through pine
\\oo(b, along a road of deep sand. Xear
IVhrbellin we pass an obelisk, erected to
i^iRimemorate a battle gained here by the
54 HAMBURG TO BERLIN.
Prussians over the Swedes in 1675. Four
miles from Berlin \ve come upon a good
causeway, for the most part bordered with
trees, and which leads in a straight line
to the Hamburg gate. A burial-place close
â– without recalls to mind a custom of the
ancients in this respect, still visible at the
gate of the city of Pompeii. From the
flatness of the country, and the church
spires being in genfcral far from lofty, Berlin
is not visible in this direction at anv great
distance. Our passports were strictly ex-
amined at the gate^ and about six o'clock I
found myself in the streets of Berlin.
55
CHAP. IV.
Berlin. — Public Buildii?o-s. — Brido-cs.—-'-
Gate of Brandenburg. — iMilitari/ ]\Io7m~
ments. — Public Illuminations.
J- O my great disappointniciit on our arrival
at the post-office, I found that my portman-
teau had been taken out of tlie back part
of the earriaoe, where I had seen it auietlv
de})osited, and, without my knowledge or
consent, had been left behind at FehrbcHin,
to be sent on with some otbier bagcrage in a
separate waggon. It may easily be con-
ceived what was my anxiety, at finding my-
self tiuis suddenly left destitute in the middle
of a large city. It is true, the baggage ar-
rived in safety next morning, but this may
serve to sliow the liberties taken here with a
traveller, and th(^ perlcet inchtFerence shov/n
t(j his comf)rts. This, however, was soon
I'M-ootten in coiitemplatlnj:;" Berlin, \vhieh is
BLRLIN.
certainly one of tlie handsomest cities in
E'iro]:e. The streets are i^eneraliv broad
and rc^vilar. and the houses cither built of
btone, or stuccoed, so as closely to resemble
ir. From space to si^acc. palaces^ churches^
theatres, and oihcr public buildings, prevent
too continued an ur.iformitv, and vet seem
all ])arts of one great plan. The Spree,
uhieii runs through the centre, gives an ap-
])earance of maritrinc connncrce to this in-
land cit}'. at winch we have arrived throuah
ciidlcs.; roads of sand. Barges of a hundred
feet in length, with a jvrovr and stei'n alike^
sharp and rising high out ol" (he \\.\icr, recall
the elcc'a.nt shai)-> of tlie grondolas ot \ enice,
but :;erve the UiOjc usefid purpos^^s of inter-
rial (â– '. â– ;nnerc^"; anc' <ji co!nmut::c;it,ion \vith
the • ^(•••r. Vr: tiicin. tiij wood of che rorestv,
.:nd i;.^: â– â– ;'.;s aiid iuainouctures or Sdesia
and <a" IhiU'-u.d, are l:-an>i:orted v.> Berhu
ui an eu~', â– ;;'?. 'hl'e :.rid^_;es ;)ver tlie S])re'^
;i:\' a I'xvl'.i: V '- riiauKi.t i:o i/.c ritv. Several
..'' \[..\\\ : c-' ' [ sf..i.\ an - rn.:'' \vu!i stDtuci.
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. — BRIDOL-. 57
and appear as if connected with the adjoin-
ing building's. The principal bridge is of
iiewn stone, about one hundred and seventv
feet in length, witli live arches, ornamented
uith marine hgurcs. On one side is an
equestrian statue of the Elector Frederick
^Villiam. At the angles of the pedestal
are four slaves of bronze, on tlie fingers of
which are still visible the marks made by
the sabres of the Prussians;, when, in 1760^
they took possession of the city. The bridge
of Dorotliccstadt, of a single arch, is also of
stone, and adorned with eight groups of
statues, in which the elegance of the designs
is far more conspicuous than their modesty,
l^esides tlie stone bridges there are many of
wood, vvhich cross the Spree and the canals
wliich connnunicate vvith it.
A circumstance vvhich contributes greatly
to preserve the neat appearance of the streets
of Berlin is the total absence of beggars.
No sooner docs one a|)near than he is tukcii
'iu i)y the police, and -eut to the House of
53 BERLIN.
Industry. Thu^, in siirvcylns: v.hat appears
ran<?,o^ of p[ilace>j the e}e is not ^lioclvcd by
beiioldiiig their splendour and order con-
trasted with miserable objecis, often more
calculated to excite our disgust than our
commiseration. ^Vhat is practicable in Ber-
hn, i^ it not equ-jllv so in London ?
i'he roval residence at Berlin^, called the
Castie^ althougii erected at different })eriods,
add still nnnnisled, is yet a magniticent
biiiidliitT- One side rests upon the Spree :
tlic front towards the grand parade is nearly
fiVL' hundred feet in length, and the height
7->puards of one hundred feet. It has four
'irts. of which the largest serves as a
tti ^; > iglifare; two on the side next the Spree
a"\- nut: r)j)cn to the public. The prmcijial
C'ltrau 'c re-eir.blc;^ the triumphal arch of
.S('uiii;;';i: â– Si.;vcr;;-, and ha-^ to all a]){)earance
.'i:.\-,i •lufnivlh-d <ikei" ;t. A lilile round tower
•;' art.ii ri;:_;'|uiir. close uj)on the river, is
.i.ll -'.:\vn iL^ inuT of the original huddn:g.
iiid li^vmg lorincilv seivcd as a ]jri>on, Au
GATE OF BRANDENBURG. 59
hydraulic machine raises water to the summit,
from which it is distributed over the whole of
the interior. I heard much of the beauty
and ornaments of the apartments ; but they
were now all closed, and I was obliged to
rest contented with the description.
Berlin is surrounded by a slight wall of
twelve or fourteen feet in height^ or by pa-
lisades, and has fifteen gates, of which
that of Brandenburg is by far the most
striking. It is modelled after the Propyleum
of Athens, erected by Pericles during the
most flourishing period of the arts in Greece,
and terminates one of the finest streets in
Berlin ; in the centre of the street is a gravel
walk, bordered on each side with linden-
trees, and generally on fine evenings crowded
with company. The gate itself is a species
of colonnade, of twelve fluted Doric columns,
and as many smaller, with ten pilasters, so
arranged and joined as to aflbrd six openings.
Over the architrave a flight of steps Icrds to
a platform, on which formerly stood a ciiariot
60 hLKLiy,
with four hoi'bcs, and a figure ciiibiciiialic
of the triumph of Peace : this, however^ the
French reiiiovcd to Paris. The bas-rehefs
represent the combat of the Centaurs and
the Lapit'na?. On eacli side two guard-
houses, much lo\v?r than the gate, form j)an
of the design, and serve at least to connect
this elegant structure with the adjoining
buildings. Ttiroiigh the openings of tlie
gate are seen the trees of the paik, which
begins immediately on the outside of it, and
is the great resort of the inhabitants. It
contains about eight hundred acres, of which
six hundred are planted with young oaks,
pines, bee-:. I;, elm, and birch. Tliis litlic
forest so ci-.;sc to tiie walls has a chaniiin*-;^
o
effect. Nrjnicrous paths intersect it, wliercj
in the lio'icst wc.uhcr, tise stranger may
Avalk for hoiirs in tlie shade, and totally lor-
get that le is so n.-isr the mctrrp^ohs of
Prussia. .S.-veral openmgs are adorned uitii
statues, ncr.e of which however arcreniaikahle
lor their el'.",'ai.'.cc. In a-i*- icnt i.wncs thi- v, c 'd
THE PARK.— -ARSENAL. 6l
nas far more extensive, and enclosed for the
purposes of the chace. It is now more
Usefully and liberally dedicated to the health
and amusement of the citizens of Berlin. I
noticed with some surprise, that very few of
the young trees, even close to the paths, were
in any degree injured ; no boughs broken off,
no bark wantonly carried away. Such would
not be the case near any large city in Great
Britain. Are we to attribute this to the
greater rc^iinement of manners in the lower
classes of Berlin, or to that well-regulated
slavery of n^.ind nispircd b)^ a dcs]5otic go-
vernment r As an Engiishman, ^iud kindlv
treated and welcomed as such, I would wil-
lingly assign llie former cause, could it be
done ^^itu^)Ut prejudice to the character of
my own countrymen.
The arsenal is one of the finest huikiinp's
m Derh;:, and, standing near other public
echfice?, is evidently superior to tliem alL
It forms a rquarc of about three liundrcd
rc-f, aarl has an air of f:!oo!7;\ crandeur
62 BERLIN.
well suited to the purposes for which it is
formed. It is surrounded by iron chains,
supported by cannon, and all its external
ornamenrs of helmets, swords, and trophies,
denote what mav be expected within. The
interior, however, was not to be seen with-
out an express order; 1 made several attempts
to obtain admission, hut in vain. This I
regretted, not on account of the usual col-
lection of the insti'umcnts of v,ar v.hich I
might thei'e liave seen, hut that I could not
witness the effect j)roduced on me niiud by
the ornaments of the inner coiir;:. Ihere I
was t(jld the key-stones of the windows re-
presented the lieads of dving meij, of various
expressions, and such, as nsiglit easily be col-
lected on a common field of battle. The
artist ^vho planned such sniaular ornaments
must have had eitljcr a harflcned heart, or
the most Ijcnevoli-ut intentions. He "was
eitlicr xshriliv indifierent to the sufferings oi
iiis fellovv'Cr^'aUirc'Sj or 'he wished to touch
with pity the hearts of kings, who might
MILITAIiY SrONUMENTS. 63
visit this arsenal for the purpose of need-
lessly drawing forth what has been insolently
termed their last arguments.
At no great distance from the Brandcn-
burg gate is a square, containing five marble
statues of generals^ who were distinguished
in the wars of Frederick the Second. Here
the absurdity of representing men in dresses
which they never woi-c, mny be fairly con-
trasted witii the iaitliful resemblance of
them when alive. JMarslscil t'ichweiin is
represented, holding in his hand tlie colours
with wtiicii he fiil at the !)attle of Prs.giae,
but dressed in a Ilonia:i j^arb, and. to add to
the absurdity, adorned with a sash. General
Winterfeld i^ also in ;.ne ancient military
fi^arb, restin - ' on tiie trunk of a tree. But
JSeydlitz, Zic^tlien, n.i;d Marshal Keith who
fell at the battle of iiochkirk, arc repre-
sented in the uniforms of their respective
retiiments. That of General Zicther.. in a
thoughtful posture, with his arm renting
upon his hand, is by far the most striking,
4
6l BERLIN.
owing', sonietljing pcrhap?-, to the superior
elegance of his hussar dress. On the pedestal
are bas-rcliofsj representing some of liis pria-
ci])al aetions. The pedestals of the other
i^latues are without names or ornaments.
On Sunday I visited the church of St. Ni-
cholas, said to have been built in the twelfthi
century, and to be co-cval with tlie city
itself. The interior lias indeed every ap-
pearance of a venerable antiquity, but few
of the beauties of Gothic architecture. It^
length is about one hundred and eighty feet,
by eighty in bread tli, and its low shar]?
spire is not much superior in appearance to
ihat of an English 'ountry village. The
church was exceedingh- crowded, and candles
were kept burning during tlie v/hole service,
evidently a relic of tiu- rites of the Romish
faith. In tlie chorus (-f the Psalms kettle-
drums were introduced, and the whole con-
gregation joining, the efTt;ct was very strik-
ing. This church contains some ancient
pictures, n)ore worthy of remark from their
MiURCil OF ST, NICHOLAS. 65
-insularity than tlicir bcautv. In a paintii"if^'
of the Lust Judgn^ent, a clnld is represented
entering Heaven riding on a stick. In ano-
ther, I was told, oi" tb.c descent of Christ
into ilell, tise Devil is shown frighitencd out
of h>!s v/its, running- in a great hurry to
.'OLind the alarm, as well he might; but]
looked for this picture in vain. Some monii-
)nents of the fifteentli and sixteenth ccsiturics
iire not nnwortliy of attention, as sliowing
tiie taste of the j^eriod in v.hJeh they were
constructed.
At Ik'rhn, I sav/ for the first time a liU'ge
body of the R.ussian infantry, who certainly
!iad nothing striking in their looks. On the
i'ontrary, 1 thought them the meanest I had
vci hehcl'.l, with tlie exception of some of the
fSpanisli troops, among whom, however, ni-
tcrei-tins: plivsioi'iiomies and active linibs
frcnucnitl v. compensate for a ragged dress
and uncouth appearance. In the great street
of Lcipsig was also assembled a large body
of Cossacks, bv far tlie most interesting of
F
'Ai CERLI>\
any which I had yet seen. Among them
\uis a coii;-i(lerab!e number of Baschkirs,
armed \\\Vi\ crooked bows, and long light
arrows, and having the crown of the head
covered with a small bonnet of blue cloth.
Others were Tartars, whose conical caps of
blue nankeen, and small swallow-tailed flags,
were evidently derived from the borders of
China. Seeing that I surveyed them with
attention, some of them surrounded me, and
pointing to the Leipsig gate, repeated fre-
quently, •' Paris, Paris." Wliether they
were asking me the road, or expressing
their determination to go there, uas more
than I could say. Such, however, I under-
stood to l;e tlicir prevalent sentiments, and
that thry had no doubt but that they were
proeeeding in a straight road to the FrencI^
capital.
On the evening of the Stli, BerHn was
iilnminatfcd on account of the victory said
ro be gaineci near Leipsig. I \\d3 rejoiced
'O witness this, whicli I could not but re2;ard
ILLUMINATIONS. 0/
as a confirmation of the intelligence ; yet
there was a tardineps about it which seemed
unaccountable. The illumination was very
partial ; the greater part of the houses had
only a few lamps, and many of the streets
would have been wholly in the dark but for
a clear moon, which well supplied the place
of artificial YvAit. I saw but one single
transparency which occupied a solitary pane,
and was simply, " God save the King/'
This, as expressed in German, is, " Gott
schiitz den Kocnig." When it is remem-
bered that in the German idiom '' the u
twice dotted is pronounced like i," it will be
allowed, that to an English ear, this sentence
conveyed an idea of no great reverence to-
wards I {is Majesty.
On the Qth, cannon were fired in the
square before tlic castle, in token of rejoicing.
This tardiness on the part of the government
appeared to me still more unaccoumable
than that of the pfo])le, but excited no iua-
picion?. Ill tlie evening, however, a great
6S BERLIN".
crowd was collected at the post-house cvi •
dentlv iiincli ap,itated, each equally inciuirinu"
news of his neip;libour: man v woriicn were
in tears, and to judge from their exclama-
tions, the French were already marching
n])on lierlin. The public chest had been re-
riiO^cd in the niglit, and the most important
papers t?.kca out of the archives. Although
ut first "omcxvhat alarmed, Act, blind to my
fate, I soon treated this as one of those
groundless rumours which will ever arise in
a time, and near the seat of vvar. What!
liavc accounts of the victory been published r
lias li-.,\iin been iUumiiiatcd r Have the
cannon been lired ? And am 1 to suifer all
iiiis to be outweighed in mv Uiind Va a few
woiTiCu's tears.' Idle thought! I went to
the theatre, and saw, v.itii some intere.-t, Tlic
Forest of ilermanstadt vvell acted. '1 lie j.'er-
formanre began at six and v,as over Ity nine
o'clock. In tlie ])it it was easy to distiugnish
the llu.;v>iun from the Prus-ian oDicers by
(iiL'i' bushy uncombed hair, which thov
DUPLICITY OF THE POLICE. 6g
evciy now and then endeavoured still further
to discompose with their fingers.
On the tenth I procured my passport for
Dresden, regularly signed at all the proper
offices. No particular question was asked
wliy I was going there, no alarm excited,
no distant hint given that, as an Englishman,
I might he running some risk by travelling
in that direction. On the contrary, fees were
demanded at every turn, and I received ray
passj}ort with the perfect confidence of the
road being at least as free from danger as
that which I had recently travelled. Yet
was I deceived. The government knew per-
fectly well at the very moment of granting
me my pass, that Dresden was in possession
of the enemy ; but for fear of spreading an
alarm, the mail was suffered to depart. Thus
was I iirsL made the dupe, only afterwards to
become the victim of this miserable policy.
70
CHAP. V.
Berlin to Luckau. — Hoyersxcerda. — Sprein-
berg. — Muska. — Nieski/. — Head Quar-
ters atJVurtscheii. — Reception there, and
departure for Gorlitz.
Ox tlie evening preceding my departure I
mer one of niv fellow-t^assenoers from Ham-
bLH'tr, to whom I related my intention of
going to Dresden. He seemed surprised.
which induced me to ask if he kmnv ol
any danger. We were alone, and in the
middle of a sohtary street, vet hie onlv
-hru-i.rd U]) his slioulders, and looking
about him said, '• Peo})le knew not \\\\\\i
to believe."' He evaded turthei' nue>Uon> ori
tr.e subject, and soon quitted nje. Tiicsame,
or Similar answers were m^ide to niv inqui-