wide and of light orange-crimson ribbed silk, with a small edging of
gold lace, and there is spangled lace at the bottom of the gauntlets.
The length of the glove is \2\ inches. In the middle of the palm
of the left hand a patch of thin leather has been neatly inserted
(evidently contemporaneous with the date of the glove) to repair
a hole which may probably have been caused by the wearer con-
stantly resting the hand on the pommel of the sword. These gloves,
together with those on the preceding plate, came direct from the
Milward representatives into the possession of their present owner,
A. Clark-Kennedy, Esqr.
36 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXIII
GLOVE OF KING CHARLES I
MANY relics connected with the White King are to be found
in private collections, and probably the most interesting
of such relics are those used by His Majesty on the day
of the execution. The glove here illustrated, by a drawing by the
Author, is said to have been given to an attendant on the scaffold,
by the King. It is of white leather, the seams of the fingers are
stitched with silver thread, and tiny silver spangles are grouped on
the knuckles ; the embroidery on the gauntlet and the lace on the
bottom edge are also of silver. The total length from the tip of the
middle finger to the point of the lace is 13 inches.
This glove was exhibited (No. 374 in the Catalogue) at the
Exhibition of Stuart Relics at the New Gallery, London, in il
by its owner, V. F. Bennett Stanford, Esqr.
FLATK XXIII
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63 LSRO/ SI F.EET ^. ,
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GLOVES AND SHOES 37
PLATE XXIV
No. 1
GLOVE OF KING CHARLES II
ONE of a pair of stout buff leather riding gloves, entirely
without ornamentation. They were exhibited at the Stuart
Collection at the New Gallery in 1889 (No. 477 in the
Catalogue), and were thus described: "Presented to Edmund Lovel,
great-great-grandfather of the present owner, by King Charles II.
Mr. Lovel had raised a troop of horse for the service and restoration
of the King, who, meeting him at the head of his men, drew the
gloves from his hands and gave them to Mr. Lovel as a memento."
The property of Mrs. Speid.
No. 2.
A GLOVE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A GLOVE of unusual shape, made of grey leather, and em-
broidered on the back of the hand with a floral design
in dull green and red silks. The fingers and outer side
of the glove are herringbone stitched. The total measurement from
finger-tips to gauntlet is 15^ inches.
The glove is attributed to King Charles I., and was shown
among the Stuart relics at the New Gallery, London, in 1889, by
the possessor, Captain Still.
38 GLOVES AND SHOES
No. 3.
A GLOVE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PALE buff leather glove, poorly embroidered with silver
thread, pink, yellow, and white silk. The glove is in
rather a dilapidated condition. It was No. 386 in the
Catalogue of the New Gallery Exhibition in 1889, and was lent by
David Seton, Esqr.
Is.
PLAT I. \ V,
Huton Pwk Eranch,
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GLOVES AND SHOES 39
PLATE XXV
THE NASEBY GLOVES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
Af\RT from the extreme elegance of this pair of lady's gloves,
there is attached to them an historic and pathetic interest.
Till within a few years ago they were treasured by a lady
named Clarence, who died at Eversden, in Cambridgeshire. This
lady was a native of Naseby, and was connected with the Ashby
family of that place. The gloves are believed to have belonged to a
Royalist lady who was at Naseby with the Cavalier army when the
fatal defeat of King Charles took place (June 14-th, 1645), and that
in the hurried flight which ensued these gloves, together with many
other belongings of the Royalists, were left behind. The gloves,
which are very small, are made of thin light-coloured buff leather,
which is a pure white on the inside ; the gauntlets are of maroon
silk cut into panels, three in front and three at the back, and
delicately embroidered with gold cord and edged with gold lace,
with a lining of blue silk ; their total length is 1 2 inches, and they
are in excellent preservation.
In the collection of the Author.
40 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATES XXVI AND XXVII
GLOVES OF OLIVER CROMWELL
A HIGHLY interesting and well-authenticated pair of gloves
which belonged to the Protector. Their sturdy and
workaday appearance at once suggests the character of
their former owner. They are made of stout darkish grey leather,
with plain stitching of the ringer seams and on the back of the
hands ; the gauntlets are wide and have a heavy thick fringe of
twisted brown silk about 5 inches long, the total length of the
gloves being, from the tip of the middle finger to the end of
the fringe, 17 inches ; the breadth across the knuckles is 4^- inches.
They are in excellent preservation, owing probably to the fact that
till quite within what may be called recent times they have been
carefully treasured by some member of Cromwell's family. They
came into the possession of the writer in 1877, having been
purchased in September of that year from Mr. Charles Martin,
of Fordham, Cambridgeshire, who died at the age of ninety-two.
Mr. Martin acquired them as a gift from an old lady, a native (like
himself) of Wicken, a village near Fordham, whose mother had
been at one time housekeeper either at the house of the Cromwells
or with William Russell, of Fordham Abbey, near Wicken, the
son-in-law of Henry Cromwell. It may be mentioned that Henry
Cromwell, a son of Oliver, married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Francis
Russell, of Chippenham (not far from Wicken), and occupied a
PLATE XXXI
[LATE XXI -II
' k
,c Public
GLOVES AND SHOES
farm and house, known as Spinney Abbey, in the parish of Wicken,
where he died March 23rd, 1674, and was buried, together with
his wife and several other members of his family, within the altar
rails of Wicken Church. Frances, a daughter of Oliver Cromwell,
married Sir John Russell, a resident in the district, and died
in 1720.
Henry Cromwell's only surviving daughter, Elizabeth, married
William Russell, of Fordham Abbey, mentioned above, and died in
1711; and their daughter, Mary, married Robert D'Aye (died 1765),
who with his wife is buried near the north porch of the church at
Soham, a village within a couple of miles of Wicken.
From local accounts these gloves would appear to have
been in the possession of William Russell and his wife Elizabeth
(Cromwell), certainly in the middle of the eighteenth century.
Some members of the Cromwell family resided in the neighbour-
hood as late as 1787.
Inside the left-hand gauntlet is attached a worn and faded piece
of paper, on which, in antique writing, now somewhat obliterated,
is the following inscription :
" These gloves did . . . . ng to
Oliver Cromwell and was the
gift of a gentleman of
Huntingdon. 1 704.
Cromwell was a native of
Huntingdon^ that family having
resided there many ages"
The date, which evidently refers to the time of the writing on
the label, brings the memorandum to within forty-six years of the
death of Oliver, and from the wording of the memorandum it
would appear the gloves were a presentation from an admirer of
42 GLOVES AND SHOES
the Protector. It is a matter of history that several generations
of the Cromwell family married, lived, died, and were buried in
the Wicken district.
In the collection of the Author.
cT
.
QriNG DEPtf^*'
I-' LATE .V.V/7//
GLOVES AND SHOES 43
PLATE XXVIII
GLOVES OF THE LORD PROTECTOR
I
usual costume of Oliver Cromwell does not at any time
seem to have been of a gay character, therefore this pair of
gloves attributed to him are the more striking. They are
of a light buff-coloured leather. The gauntlets are of crimson silk,
cut into panels and beautifully embroidered with silk in green,
yellow, and blue, intermixed with gold and silver thread ; a bird
with yellow plumage is perched on a tree in the centre of the three
panels ; the lace which has at one time edged the panels has dis-
appeared. The inside of the gloves is white, and a crimson silk
lining reaches 2^ inches up the gauntlets. The total length of the
gloves is 13 inches. The following description is given by the
present possessor of the relics :
" These gloves were found in a walnut- wood escritoire, having
a false back and secret drawers, which belonged to the Lord
Protector, Oliver Cromwell. The gloves were presented in the
year 1794 to Mr. John Legge, of Reading, by Madame Schomberg,
of renowned descent. John Legge, of Katesgrove, Berks, before
his decease in 1810, gave them to his nephew, with whom they
remained till they passed into the possession of their present owner,
a relative of the above John Legge."
It may be added that the watch of Oliver Cromwell, now in
the British Museum, was once the property of this same family.
The property of Mrs. A. H. Simpson-Carson.
44 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXIX
GLOVES OF CHARLES II
IMMEDIATELY after the crushing defeat of the Royalists at
Worcester, on September 3rd, 1651, the young King escaped
from the city with a few followers ; but previous to starting
His Majesty made some hurried changes in his costume, and,
according to tradition, this was done in a house situated at the
corner of New Street and the corn market. Mr. Allan Fea, in
his admirable book entitled The Flight of the King, says : " Charles
had barely time to effect his escape by a back door as Corbett
(a Parliamentary officer) entered by the front ; and the story is
strengthened by the fact that the King, in detailing his adventures
to the Queen-mother and the Court, upon his safe arrival at the
Louvre, described how he slipped out of Worcester, and " how
near he was taken there, first in the fort and after in his chamber."
Some of the King's apparel was long treasured in a house in the
parish of Whiteladies, within the city of Worcester,* the gloves here
illustrated being among the articles preserved. The gloves are made
of thin brown leather, the seams of the fingers and thumb being
covered with silver-wire thread, terminating on the back of the
hand considerably beyond the knuckles, thus giving a false idea of
the length of the fingers. The gauntlets are also trimmed with
silver stitching ; and white spangled silver lace, sewn on to a band
of pale blue silk, gives a finish to the whole. The gauntlets are
* At the Whiteladies, in the Tything, are the remains of a nunnery, hence the name.
GLOVES AND SHOES
split open some 5 inches at the sides, and are retained in position
by broad bands of blue ribbed silk. The total length of the gloves,
from the tip of the middle finger to the point of the lace, is
14 inches.
In the possession of A. Clark-Kennedy, Esqr.
46 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXX
A PAIR OF WHITE GLOVES
SIXTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of stout white leather gloves, apparently once the
property of a person of considerable stature, to judge
from their size. The gauntlets are nicely embroidered
with metallic thread of gold and silver, parts of the work being
raised by means of a red wool padding. Till recently these gloves
were in the possession of a family in Warwickshire. They are now
in the collection of Seymour Lucas, Esqr., R.A.
1'LATK -V.V.V
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PLATE XXXI
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GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXI
BROWN GLOVES
SIXTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of gloves of a rich brown-coloured leather, measuring
12-f- inches from tip of the middle finger to the extreme
edge of the fringe.
The gauntlets open on the outer side, as is usual, and are taste-
fully embroidered on both back and front with gold and silver
thread. The fingers are plain stitched, and the inside of the gloves
are of white kid. These also came from the same family as the
previously illustrated gloves (Plate XXX.), and are the property of
Seymour Lucas, Esqr., R.A.
48 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXII
A SPANISH GLOVE
SIXTEENTH CENTURY
A VERY beautiful glove, richly and thickly embroidered on
the gauntlet with flowers, birds, a cornucopia, a figure, etc.,
and at the opening at the side are three elegant tassels.
The date of this exquisite piece of work is of the latter part of the
sixteenth century, and was formerly the property of Monsieur Spitzer.
It is now in the South Kensington Museum.
\
x
ualicL/6
, J? (" ' r. . : ( H arch,
PLATE XXXI II
GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXIII
A LADY'S GLOVES
LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY
pair of gloves, of elaborate and rich character, were
evidently once the property of a lady of quality. They are
of pale warm-coloured buff leather. The stitching of the
seams of the thumbs and fingers, of green silk, is very fine, terminating
below the knuckles in a pointed pattern ; while a larger and more
elaborated pattern occurs on the palm of the hand. The gauntlets,
which are sewn on to the gloves, are of dark claret-coloured silk,
richly embroidered with gold and silver gimp and gold cord, and
profusely spangled with silver discs. A design, resembling the
Prince of Wales' feathers, is thrice repeated on each gauntlet. A
narrow band of gold lace divides the cuff from the glove. The
total length is 12! inches.
In the collection of the Author.
H
so GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXIV
WHITE GLOVES
EARLY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A elegant and dainty pair of light buff leather gloves with
beautifully embroidered cuffs, with roses and other designs
in blue, green, and pink gimp, lined out with fine silver
cord ; the central figure is a bird worked in pink and yellow silk,
the same pattern being repeated on both back and front of the cuffs.
A lining of pink silk extends some 3 inches inside the cuff, which
is finished off with a yellow silk fringe. The total length of the
gloves is 13 inches.
In the collection of the Author.
PLATE .V.V-V/T
ING D'EPI
PLATE XXXV
GLOVES AND SHOES 51
PLATE XXXV
A CAVALIER'S GLOVE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A CAVALIER'S glove, of white doeskin, measuring, from the
tip of the middle finger to the point of the silver fringe of
the gauntlet, i if inches. The glove and the gauntlet are
all in one, and the latter is beautifully embroidered with silver, great
richness and effect being gained by perforations through the leather
between the tracery of the silver embroidery ; the gauntlet is lined
for some 3 inches with a rich yellow silk. An unusual feature in
the glove is a ventilating arrangement, obtained by a series of five
rows of small slits, and a similar number of stars, in the palm of the
hand ; the stitching of the seams is quite plain.
This interesting glove, now somewhat dilapidated, was worn by
Captain, or Colonel, Lench at the Battle of Worcester, and a
drawing of it is given in Sir Sibbald Scott's book, entitled The
British Army, vol. ii.
The property of A. S. Field, Esqr.
52 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXVI
A PAIR OF ENGLISH GLOVES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of neatly embroidered gloves, of English make and
of serviceable appearance, and quite unlike those made
expressly for the purpose of presentation and therefore of
a richer character. Their date is seventeenth century ; they came
from the Isham Collection, and are now in the South Kensington
Museum.
I'LA TK .\.\.\-l 7
y i'
66 L"i;0
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PLATE XXXI- 11
GLOVES AND SHOES 53
PLATE XXXVII
A PAIR OF BROWN GLOVES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of brown leather gloves, plainly stitched at the seams of
thumb and fingers. The cuff richly ornamented with gold
and silver wire of extreme fineness, twisted round what
appears to be flat pieces of quill and sewn into the required position,
each part of the pattern being framed with gold cord ; small gold
spangles are dotted about in every available space ; a narrow band of
red silk, carrying a silver fringe, terminates the whole. The total
length of the gloves is 12^ inches. Date about 1600.
In the collection of the Author.
54 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXVIII
No. 1
A GLOVE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
E ? T-HAND glove, made of a thick, warm, grey-coloured felt or
stout leather. The seams of fingers and thumb are stitched
with silver, and the gauntlet, which is made in two parts, is
richly embroidered with gold and silver gimp : unfortunately, the
lace or fringe edging has disappeared from the gauntlet; the total
length is 14 inches.
In the collection of Seymour Lucas, Esqr., R.A.
No. 2
THE PASTON HALL GLOVE
A interesting glove, probably of the middle of the seventeenth
century, of brown leather, neatly embroidered with silver
thread. This glove was found a few years since in Paston
Hall, Norfolk, and was presented by the wife of the present owner
of the hall, Mrs. John Mack, to the Castle Museum, Norwich. The
glove gains some additional interest from the fact that it may have
belonged to a member of that ancient family, made so famous by the
Paston Hall Papers, published by Sir John Ferm, 178789.
SL* r-'SIL
GLOVES AND SHOES 55
No. 3
A LADY'S GLOVE
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
AT elegant glove for the right hand, of rich fawn-coloured
leather of very fine quality. The stitching of the seams is
plain ; the gauntlet is ornamented in a very unusual manner,
with grey and yellow loops or bows of mohair tape, or ribbon inter,
mixed with gold and silver threads, one-half of the back of the
hand and knuckles being similarly treated; the lower part of the
cuff inside is stiffened with three layers of paper, and is lined with
ribbed yellow silk ; the entire length of the glove is 1 1 inches.
In the collection of Seymour Lucas, Esqr., R.A.
56 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXXIX
A PAIR OF SHORT GLOVES
LATE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of rather an unusual style of gloves of warm russet-
coloured leather and having very short gauntlets, which are
embroidered entirely with metallic gold and silver thread,
the pattern being raised by stump or padded work ; a rich bordering
of silver lace surrounds the bottom and sides of the gauntlets. The
extreme length is \2\ inches, and they are in the collection of
W. Cole-Plowright, Esqr.
I-L.ITL XXXIX
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GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XL
A LADY'S GLOVE
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY, OXFORD
A GLOVE of early Queen Anne period made of what has been
white kid leather, without any ornamentation ; the gauntlet
is small and is of rich brown silk divided into panels by
strips of a darker brown gimp ; the base is cut into six scallops,
edged with narrow gold lace, spangled, the divisions being decorated
with bows of grey-ribbed ribbon ; a band of wide brown gimp
separates the gauntlet from the glove.
In the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford.
58 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XLI
QUEEN ANNE'S GLOVES
OXFORD
A unusually elegant pair of early eighteenth-century gloves, of
buff leather, in excellent preservation, measuring only 10
inches in length ; the gauntlets are short and most elabor-
ately ornamented with a perforated pattern in gold and crimson
thread embroidery and small bugle beads of glass ; there are four
small openings in the gauntlets, over each of which is a bow of
ribbon ; they are lined with puce silk.
These gloves were left by Queen Anne at Christ Church when
on a visit to Oxford, August 26th, 1702, and are now in the Ash-
molean Museum.
I' LATE XLl
.
tt LET
- ^
PLATE XL 11
*'
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'
GLOVES AND SHOES 59
PLATE XLII
A CAVALIER'S GLOVES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of Cavalier's gloves, made of thin soft buff-coloured
leather, embroidered on the cuff with ' silver thread ; the
gauntlets are lined and the edges are bound with crimson
silk ; the fringe is of gold thread, and the openings at the sides of
the gauntlets are connected by two bands of buff silk ribbon edged
with lace. Their length is 1 1 \ inches. They are described in the
Museum Catalogue as being of English make. Early seventeenth
century.
Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art.
60 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XLIII
A PAIR OF GLOVES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of dark grey leather gloves, with short gauntlets com-
posed entirely of a single band of embroidered gold lace,
enriched with spangles and edged at the top and bottom
with a fringe of gold. The stitching of the fingers and on the back
of the hands is quite plain.
The inside of the gloves is white leather, and the gauntlets are
lined with ribbed buff silk. The total length of the gloves, including
the cuffs, is 12 inches.
In the collection of the Author.
FLATK Xl.lll
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PLATE XLIT
GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XLIV
A PAIR OF LADY'S GLOVES
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
PAIR of lady's gloves, of knitted brown silk, embroidered
with a floral design in silver 'thread. The total length is
1 6 inches.
Their probable date is early eighteenth century.
Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art.
A
62 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XLV
No. 1
COLONEL DUCKETT'S GLOVES
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of large dark brown leather gloves, measuring n-
inches inclusive ; the gauntlets are short, being only 3 inches
deep, composed entirely of one broad piece of gold lace,
and are lined with pale yellow satin ; the backs of the gloves are
slightly embroidered with a floral design in gold wire thread, together
with some herring-bone stitching of the same material. These gloves
have a clumsy appearance, and mark the decline from the beauty and
elegance of the Stuart and earlier periods ; they are said to have
belonged to Colonel William Duckett, who served in Queen Anne's
Army under the great Duke of Marlborough ; they were at one time
exhibited at the South Kensington Museum, and are now in the
collection of the Author.
No. 2
A PAIR OF LEATHER MITTENS
A PAIR of fingerless gloves, or mittens, of thick brown leather ;
they measure only 8| inches in length, of which i^ inches
forms a cuff of crimson morocco leather, the inside being
lined some 2\ inches up with stout leather ; the stitching throughout
is of a very coarse character, and strength, rather than style or
elegance, seems to have been the object of the maker ; their appear-
ance suggests a falconer as their original owner, and their date is
probably early sixteenth century. In the collection of the Author.
PLATE AT,/'
, -^
"-.;,- . -*- x /
'G r-EP^" 1
PLATE XLl'l
GLOVES AND SHOES 63
PLATE XLVI
A PAIR OF MITTENS
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of lady's mittens, made of pale yellow woven silk,
enriched with needlework of pink thread. The tip of the
thumb would protrude beyond its sheath, while the backs
only of the fingers would be covered by the pointed flaps ; the entire
length of the mittens is 14^ inches, and in the official catalogue their
date is given as of the eighteenth century.
Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art.
SHOES
K
HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION ON SHOES
SO many authors have at various times, written about the origin,
development, and history of foot-gear, the changes in fashion,
shape, and material, that it is almost impossible to add any
fresh information on this interesting subject. On the other hand,
the subject has not been equally illustrated, and to supply this want
the present work, it is hoped, may somewhat compensate for the
past, particularly as all the pictures have been specially photographed,
or drawn, for this volume from actual existing examples of shoes
of various periods. To assist in rendering the illustrations more
interesting a few introductory remarks may not be altogether
unacceptable.
The frequent mention of shoes in the Old Testament is remark-
able. God thus commanded Moses : " Draw not nigh hither : put
off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest
is holy ground " (Exod. iii. 5). To this day the Oriental puts off
his shoes on entering his house of prayer.
In the books of Deuteronomy, Joshua, Ruth, in the Psalms, in
Amos, and in other parts of the Bible frequent mention is made of
shoes. That sandals and shoes of rushes, or of leather, of beautiful
workmanship, were commonly worn by the Egyptians, we have ample
proof. Witness the splendid examples in the Egyptian department