made is sky-blue satin, entirely without ornamentation ; the
heels, which are covered with the same material, are of wood, and
are 2 inches high ; the latchets are wide and fastened across the
insteps by the original gilt metal buckles. The entire length of
the shoes from toe to heel is 8| inches, and they are the property
of Mrs. Simpson Carson.
A
1
No. 2
BEAUTIFUL pair of eighteenth-century shoes of crimson
velvet embroidered with gold.
No. 3
clogs belonging to the above. In the Northampton
Museum.
N
90 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XVII
THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER'S BOOT
ONE of a pair of boots, of singular character, of late seventeenth-
century workmanship. They are made of rough-grained
black leather, neatly stitched with white thread. The bell
tops are of buff leather, pierced and goffered at the lower edge ; the
heels are low and flat ; the toes square and slightly blocked, are
2 inches wide ; the total height of the boots from the heels to the
bell tops is 8^ inches, the length of the foot is 6 inches. These
interesting relics belonged to Prince William Henry, Duke of
Gloucester, the son of Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne and Prince
George of Denmark. The lad died at the age of eleven, early in
1700.
The boots, which were at one time the property of Alderman
Fletcher, now form part of the collection of the Ashmolean Museum,
Oxford.
PLATE XVII
PLATE XT! I!
GLOVES AND SHOES 9i
PLATE XVIII
No. 1
SHOES OF QUEEN ANNE'S REIGN
A PAIR of very elegant and dainty shoes of exquisite workman-
ship. They are made of white satin ; a broad band, 2\
inches wide, of gold lace with an edging of gold gimp,
covers the whole front of the foot from the toes to the top of the
instep flap. A similar ornamentation, but narrower, adorns the
heels. The sides of the shoes are covered with narrow white silk
braid neatly arranged in parallel lines. The latchets are wide, and
show the marks of the buckles which were used to fasten them.
The toes are pointed, and the heels, which are of wood, are 2\
inches high ; the lining of the shoes is blue silk, except the latchets,
heels, and instep flaps, which are lined with white satin. The length
of these charming and perfect shoes is 9! inches, and their date
seventeenth century.
In the collection of Mrs. Seymour Lucas.
92 GLOVES AND SHOES
No. 2
A PAIR OF LADY'S SHOES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of lady's shoes of pale fawn-coloured silk brocade,
figured with a light and dark electric blue pattern of foliage.
The insides are lined with yellow canvas, and the heels, as
usual of wood, are covered with brocade and measure 2\ inches in
height. The toes are pointed and slightly upturned. Their general
design is very elegant.
In the collection of the Author.
No. 3
A LADY'S SHOES AND CLOGS
1
pair of shoes and clogs on the lower part of the plate are
excellent examples of the foot-gear of a well-to-do county
lady of the early part of the eighteenth century. They are
made of yellow worsted brocade ; the heels, of wood, 2\ inches
high, are covered with the same material. The latchets are wide,
and have been fastened with buckles.
The clogs, one of which is on the shoe, the other shown beside,
are also of yellow brocade, the tabs being tied with faded buff ribbon,
and have flat leather soles. These shoes and clogs belonged to a lady
of an influential family once residing at Chesterton, near Cambridge.
In the collection of the Author.
GLOVES AND SHOES 93
PLATE XIX
LADIES' SHOES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
A SUPERB pair of lady's shoes, made of damask, the prevailing
colours being green, silver-grey, and pink dotted with red.
The latchets are small and are made for tying across the
instep ; the heels, covered with damask, are of wood, and are of
great breadth and measure 3 inches in height ; the toes are extremely
pointed and exceed the length of the foot, necessitating the use of
wool at the points to keep them in shape ; they are probably English
made, and belong to the reign of Queen Anne.
The second pair of shoes on this plate are very elegant and of
beautiful workmanship. They are made of crimson morocco leather ;
the latchets are very wide and were fastened over the instep with
buckles. The heels are 3 inches high, and very small ; the toes are
rounded.
Inside the left shoe, on the canvas lining, is written, " Mrs. Raynes
Own Moroco (sic] Pumps 1636."
Both of the above pairs of shoes are the property of Mrs. Elkin
Mathews.
94 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XX
No. 1
SHOES OF THE REIGN OF WILLIAM
AND MARY
A PAIR of blackish brown leather shoes, with double latchets
crossing extremely high instep flaps, and fastening at the
sides by means of a button and hook. The flap is well
shaped, and gives an elegant and smart appearance to the shoes.
The heels, of wood, are 2 inches high and are covered with crimson
leather ; the toes are rounded, and the total length of the shoes is
9! inches. They were originally in the Bateman Collection.
c
No. 2
LORD TREVOR'S SHOES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
1
second pair of shoes on the plate are of crimson leather,
with wide instep flaps, and having no indication of a means
of fastening ; the soles are | of an inch thick, and the heels,
of black leather and hollow, are i\ inches high. The toes are square
and measure 2\ inches across ; the name of Lord Trevor, in writing
of an ancient character, may be traced on the underside of one of
the instep flaps. This kind of shoes is of the period of Charles I.
Both the above pairs of shoes are the property of Mrs. Seymour
Lucas.
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GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXI
No. 1
A SHOE OF THE REIGN OF GEORGE II
ONE of a very handsome pair of silk damask shoes, the pre-
vailing colours being green, yellow, and salmon-pink. The
heels, 2 inches high, are of wood and are covered with
silk damask. The toes are upturned and extremely pointed ; the
latchets are broad and show signs of wear from the use of buckles.
The total length of the shoes from toe to heel is 9^ inches. Their
date is of the reign of George II. In the collection of Mrs. Seymour
Lucas.
No. 2
A LADY'S SHOE
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
ONE of a pair of lady's shoes of graceful shape, made of silk
brocade, with a pattern of flowers and leaves in various
colours, pink, blue, green and gold. The latchets are wide,
and were intended to be fastened across the instep flaps with buckles.
The heels, covered with brocade, are 2\ inches high, and the toes
are extremely pointed. The shoes are lined with white kid leather,
except the instep flap, and that has a lining of pale pink ribbed silk.
They are thus described by their owner : " These shoes belonged to
my maternal great-great-grandmother, Mrs. Cook, of the Manor
House, Findern, Derbyshire. The date would be about 1720."
The property of Mrs. C. M. Prickett.
96 GLOVES AND SHOES
No. 3
COMBINED SHOE AND CLOG
ONE of a pair of very elegant shoes and clogs combined,
known also as double-soled shoes, made of white kid leather,
which appears to have been covered with cream silk damask.
The insteps and toes richly embroidered with pale pink or salmon-
coloured silk are powdered with seed pearls ; the heels retain traces
of pink brocade ; the latchets are made for tying, and seem from the
fragments remaining to have had a fringe and ruching of pearly grey
silk, which divided the shoe across the instep, while below the latchets
on the instep flap four holes are punched at regular distances probably
as a means of affixing a rosette or bow of ribbon. The heels taper
downwards and are 2\ inches high, gaining an additional \ inch
by the thickness of the flat heel of the clog, which with the sole,
also flat, is of brown leather. The toes, measuring \\ inches across,
are flat and square. The total length of the clogs is i o| inches, the
heels being if inches wide ; though the colours of the brocade are
faded, the shoes in other respects are in good condition.
Examples of these combined shoes and clogs are to be found in
Van Dyck's portrait pictures.
A similar shoe is in the museum at Northampton, and the Cluny
Museum, Paris, has also a specimen of this peculiar foot-gear. Their
date is probably of the first half of the seventeenth century.
In the collection of Mrs. Seymour Lucas.
L' ancti,
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PLATE XXI 1
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GLOVES AND SHOES 97
PLATE XXII
No. 1
MUD GUARDS
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of mud guards, intended for the use of gentlemen
riding in knee breeches and stockings and when not wearing
riding-boots. Each guard is made of one piece of stout
leather, shaped as a half-leg and foot, and fastened to the stirrup ;
a leather socket inside the top and an incision over the instep allows
the stirrup strap to pass through, while there are two small incisions
at the side for a strap which would keep the stirrup iron in position.
The original spurs are fixtures on the guards, but have been at some
time or other lowered from their previous position, which was
evidently too high and too far outwards to have been effectively used
on the horse's flanks.
These very singular guards were found in Bolsover Castle, and are
now in that excellent collection of foot-gear in the Northampton
Museum.
o
98 GLOVES AND SHOES
No. 2
A POSTILLION'S BOOT
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
A
POSTILLION'S boot of the eighteenth century ; heavy and
clumsy, but well suited for its purpose.
No. 3
A MILITARY GAITER
A MILITARY gaiter, or legging, in use during the reign of
George II. (1750), with its original spur, which is a fixture,
on the heel of the gaiter. The lacing at the side is simple
in the extreme, being so arranged that the half-dozen split thongs of
leather are threaded through each other till the topmost is held by
a button.
Both the above are in the Castle Museum, Norwich.
I'LATE .\ \
GLOVES AND SHOES 99
PLATE XXIII
No. 1
LADY'S YELLOW SHOES
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
AT extremely perfect and dainty pair of lady's shoes of bright
yellow brocade, embroidered in floral designs with crimson
silk and green wire, the pattern being displayed on each shoe
with an utter disregard to uniformity. The stitching is throughout
very neat. They are lined, as is very generally the case, with white
canvas. The heels, which are nearly 2\ inches high, are hollow,
and are covered with brocade. The toes are rounded, the instep
flaps are wide, as are also the buckle latchets. These shoes are
reputed to have been worn by Lady Strafford at the trial of her
husband (March, 1641), but the tradition is without foundation, as
they belong to a later period. In the collection of the Author.
No. 2
A GENTLEMAN'S SHOE
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
AT extraordinary shoe, for a gentleman, with a heel far higher
than is commonly found on shoes of this period ; it measures
full 6 inches in height. The shoe is extremely elegant, has
latchets crossing the instep, and retains its original metal buckle of
very ornate design. A similar shoe in the Victoria and Albert
Museum, Kensington, is described as English, second half of the
eighteenth century.
In the Museum, Whitby.
ioo GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXIV
A LADY'S SHOES AND CLOGS
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
A PAIR of lady's shoes of pale green damask, figured with
white-and-crimson flowers and foliage. The heels, of wood,
are covered with white kid leather and are 2\ inches high.
The toes are pointed, and the instep flaps are cut into points ; the
entire length of the shoes from the toe to the heel being 7 inches.
The latchets are small, and are held on the instep by their original
silver clasps or fasteners, which in their turn are held in position by
a kind of stud in a button-hole at the end of the latchets.
The silver clasps, examples of which are rare, are Hall marked,
having the head of the monarch, George III., the lion passant, and
the date mark, U. (1795).
The clogs belonging to this elegant pair of shoes are of stout
black leather, the heel guards being of red leather stitched with
white thread. The latchets are also of black leather and, though now
nearly bare, show traces of having been once covered with pink silk
damask. The soles are perfectly flat.
The property of Dr. W. T. Bensley.
I'LAri: XX 1\
'
PLATE XXV
GLOVES AND SHOES 101
PLATE XXV
SLIPPERS AND SHOES
Nos. 1 and 3
A PAIR of petite French-made slippers of silk, with flowers
embroidered in silver and silk of various colours, with a
goffering of grey ribbon across the instep ; they are lined
throughout with white kid leather ; the heels, of wood, 2\ inches
high, are covered with polished white leather ; the toes are rounded
and slightly upturned. The total length of the shoes is only 8 inches ;
their date is probably early seventeenth century.
No. 2
A SHOE of white kid leather, covered with spotted white satin,
embroidered on the toe with flowers and bound with pink
ribbed silk, the instep flap being made to draw in with a
pink silk cord. The daintily shaped wooden heel, 2\ inches high,
is covered with spotted pink silk, its base being less than an inch
across. The letters, of an old-fashioned character, " E. H." are
stamped on the lining. Its date is late eighteenth century.
Nos. 4 and 6
A PAIR of curious crimson morocco leather shoes, bound with
black silk braid ; the toes are very pointed and turned
upwards in the style of Eastern foot-gear ; the heels,
2 inches high and of wood, are covered with black leather ; they
taper a short distance down, spreading out again near the base,
which is very small. They belong to the middle of the eighteenth
century.
102 GLOVES AND SHOES
A
I
No. 5
N early eighteenth-century shoe of green damask, with high
heel and pointed toe ; the latchets are wide and made for
being fastened with a buckle.
Nos. 7 and 8
clog, which belongs to the shoe beside it in the picture,
has the usual flat sole and heel ; the sides are of red leather,
stitched with white thread ; the latchets are of pink silk
bound with salmon-coloured silk braid.
No. 9
A QUEEN ANNE shoe, made of red-and-white striped silk
and cotton material, lined throughout with buff canvas ; it
has a wide and square instep flap and short latchets or tabs
for tying with a ribbon or cord ; the toe is pointed ; the heel is of
wood, covered with red leather, and is 2\ inches high.
All the above are in the collection of the Author.
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PLATE XXI' J
GLOVES AND SHOES ios
PLATE XXVI
No. 1
A BRIDAL SHOE
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
A LADY'S shoe of buff silk, embroidered with flowers in silver ;
the toe is pointed, and the heel is unusually high, being
3! inches. The length of the shoe is 8^ inches. The
latchets are wide, and are intended to be fastened by a buckle on the
instep. This shoe was worn by the grandmother of Sir Wm.
Mackenzie, K.C.B., on her wedding-day, in 1776.
Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art.
No. 2
A LADY'S SHOE
A SMALL shoe of moire antique over white kid leather ; the
heel is of wood, covered with a very light dove-coloured
polished leather. The inside of the shoe is lined with
white satin. The heel is exceptionally high, measuring 3! inches,
the length of the shoe being only 8 inches from the heel to the tip
of the sharply pointed toe. This singular specimen has the appear-
ance of a bridal shoe, and the heart, on the ball of the foot, which is
of a lighter colour than the rest of the sole, suggests a love story.
The property of W. Cole Plowright, Esq.
104 GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXVII
VARIOUS SHOES AND SLIPPERS
No. 1
A WHITE satin slipper, with a square toe and a low heel ; it is
bound with silver braid, and has a rosette of pale blue ribbon
trimmed with silver. The shoe is reputed to have belonged
to a Lady Digby. Date, about 1750.
No. 2
A SMART shoe of red kid bound with white braid. The toe is
pointed, and the instep is slashed and ornamented with a
rosette of white ribbon ; a backing or lining of white kid
shows through the slashings ; the heel, of red leather, is small, and
is i^ inches high. Date, eighteenth century.
A
No. 3
VERY neat slipper of blue kid, with a low heel and pointed
toe. Eighteenth century.
Nos. 4 and 5
A BALL slipper of white ribbed silk goloshed with crimson
silk, square-toed and without heels. On the white kid
lining is written in ink the name of " Miss Gordon" and the
maker's name, " Patterson, 74, Oxford Street" appears on the sole.
The patten, for protecting the slipper, is made of brown morocco
leather, and was worn over the ball slipper. Date, early Victorian.
v V
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GLOVES AND SHOES ios
No. 6 (centre of plate)
white satin shoe is embroidered with green, yellow, and
light red silk ; it has latchets for buckles, and the heel, of
wood, 2\ inches high, is covered with white kid. Attached
to the shoe is a slip of antique paper with faded writing, which states
that the shoe belonged to Sarah Churchill, the wife of the Great
Duke of Marlborough. The clog, which appears on the extreme
right of the picture, belongs to the shoe. Time of Queen Anne.
All the above are in the collection of W. P. Gibbs, Esqr.
The clogs and pattens are of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries and are in the collection of the Author.
GLOVES AND SHOES
PLATE XXVIII
EASTERN SHOES AND CHOPINES
V
No. 1
A
A
PAIR of shoes made of hempen string. Views of the upper
and sole are given.
No. 2
PAIR of wooden-soled shoes ; the uppers are composed of
leather covered with brown felt, over which is a wide band
of blue cashmere.
Nos. 3 and 4
WOODEN chopines, or clogs, 8 inches high, worn by Turkish
women ; they are thickly inlaid with mother-of-pearl and
silver wire and have bands of leather, which form a kind
of sandal ; these are covered with puce cloth richly embroidered
with gold thread.
As previously mentioned, chopines are of Eastern origin, and
early in the seventeenth century were in use among the ladies of
Venice, and eventually found their way into France and, to a small
extent, into England.
In the collection of the Author.
No. 5
A PAIR of Turkish lady's slippers of green leather. The inner
soles have small panels of leather work resembling mosaics.
The under soles are of two thicknesses of brown leather,
and the heels, unusual in oriental slippers, are formed of loops of
iron. Their total length is 9 inches.
The property of A. Clark-Kennedy, Esqr.
PLA /'/: XXt'lll
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PLATE XXIX
66 L-
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GLOVES AND SHOES 10?
A
PLATE XXIX
ORIENTAL CHILDREN'S SHOES
No. 1
CHINESE shoe, for a child ; it is made of various soft
materials of brilliant colours blue, crimson, yellow, etc. ; its
length from toe to heel is 4* inches.
In the Norwich Museum.
No. 2
A
1
BOHEMIAN child's shoe, made of crimson and yellow
leather ; the upper is joined to the sole with narrow strips of
leather. Entire length, 5^ inches.
The property of R. Farren, Esqr.
No. 3
beautiful Indian shoe, for a child, is made of leather
covered with rich embroidery in subdued colours (crimson
and buff), relieved by a ruby-coloured jewel on the instep ;
the sole is of leather, and measures, from heel to toe, 4^ inches.
In the Norwich Museum.
108 GLOVES AND SHOES
A
PLATE XXX
AFRICAN SANDALS
No. 1
FRICAN sandals, Niger River district, of leather, and of
admirable design and workmanship ; the ringed receptacle
for the great toe is a feature in the sandal.
In the collection of the Author.
No. 2
A
SIMILAR pair of leather sandals, from the same locality,
the upper strappings being somewhat more elaborate and
ornamental.
In the collection of Cole Ambrose, Esqr.
PI. A TK -V.V.V
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PLATE XXXI
GLOVES AND SHOES 109
PLATE XXXI
Nos. 1 and 2
NORTH AMERICAN MOCASSINS
f ^\WO pairs of North American mocassins, of black cloth
elaborately embroidered with beads and silk in brilliant
colours.
In the collection of Cole Ambrose, Esqr.
A
No. 3
AFRICAN SANDALS
PAIR of African sandals, of plain character.
In the collection of F. W. Phillips, Esqr.
no GLOVES AND SHOES
I
PLATE XXXII
CHOPINES
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
pairs of unusually fine chopines, which have been ex-
hibited by their owner at the Victoria and Albert Museum,
South Kensington.
The first of these are, as is commonly the case, built of cork, as
being the lightest material for the purpose. They are covered with
stamped leather, which is inlaid with silver-foil, lacquered to imitate
gilding. The sandals, or latchets, are ornamented with tufts of silk.
The height at the heels is 3 inches. They slope downwards to the
toes to a height of if inches, and their length is 8| inches.
The second pair of chopines are of a much bolder character,
both in size and height, being y| inches at the heels and 5! inches
at the toes, but only j\ inches long at the base, giving but a scanty
sole for the support of the wearer. These chopines are constructed
of cork, and are covered with white leather, having a stamped and
perforated ornamentation on either side. The slippers, on the top
of the structure, are also of white leather, and are decorated with a
similar but more elaborate pattern. The origin and use of these
singular articles of foot-gear has been already mentioned in the
description of Plate VIII. The examples here illustrated are the
property of J. H. Fitzhenry, Esqr.
PLATE XXXII
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