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Guide to Holy Island: and its associations: discriptive & historical online

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THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES



FISHING



Bags, - Slingrs.



\



P I I IP" ^ unequalled and not excelled.



Tied to nature or artificial



FISHING COATS & JACKETS.




Tourists' & Travellers'
Bags, Portmanteaux,
Trunks, Boxes, Dress
Baskets, Gladstones,
Kit Bags, Suit Cases.




UBBER DEPOT

Requisites

Driving, Walking.



IND



TO SUIT ALU
CLIMATES.



Outfits:



Joggles.




S & 10, Grainger Street, Newcastle.

And at 27, FAWCETT STREET, SUNDERLAND.




North of England

School Furnishing Co., Ltd.,

25, GRAINGER STREET WEST,
NEWCASTLE=UPON=TYNE.



Discount Booksellers, Fancy Goods Importers,
and Artists 9 Material Dealers.



Agents for Waterman's *' IDEAL" Fountain Pens,
at Prices from 1O/6 upwards.

HAWKINS & SON,

House Furnishers,
Cabinetmakers, Upholsterers, Undertakers, etc.

Experienced men kept for all kinds of House Jobbing,
Repairs, Re-upholstering of all kinds of Modern
and Antique Furniture.

Removals and Storage. Pictures Mounted and Framed.

Venetian Blinds supplied Old ones Renewed.

Good Workmanship Guaranteed. Prices Lowest.

All orders punctually attended to

AT

15, hpclc hill, Berwick on

Telegrams: "Hawkins, Cabinetmakers." Telephone



PorihunibcrlanU firms $ While Swan bold,



W. F. IRELAND, Proprietor.

One of the Largest and Most Commodious

Family and Commercial Hotels in the

North of England.

Posting in all its branches. An Omnibus awaits the arrival of all
Principal Trains.

Your pleasure will be Greatly Enhanced if you Visit the
SHOPS AND TEA ROOMS



T. DIXON & SONS, Ltd.,

Bakers anb Confectioners,

47 and 48, BONDGATE WITHIN j
NARROWGATE STREET & \

(in the Direct Route to the Castle),

CAFE, FRONT STREET, ALNWICK.




PARTIES CATERED FOR ON AND OFF THE PREMISES.

BREAKFASTS. LUNCHEONS. TEAS.

HOLY ISLAND GOLF CLUB.

H. G. WINSHIP, ESQ., Hon. Sec.

Nine'Hole Natural Sporting Course of some 2,500 yards.
Convenient Club House. Easy Fees.

Visitors :
Month 5 - Week 2/6 Day 1/-

No Play on Sundays. Usual Cheap Railway Golf Tickets.



JOHN FORSYTH & SONS,

Grocerst Rafters au5 Confectioners.



ORNAMENTAL CAKES.
WEDDING AND CHRISTENING CAKES MADE TO ORDER.



LOWICK, BEAL t S.O., Northumberland.

THE ALNWICK BREWERY Co., LTD.,

BREWERS, WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANTS,

AND

AERATED WATER MANUFACTURERS-



PROPR ETORS OF THE FAMOUS . . .

"GLEN ALN" WHISKY,

A SPECIAL BLEND OF FINEST SCOTCH WHISKY.

42s. Per Case. 19s. 6d. Per Gallon.

Y.S. "CLEN ALN." 45s. PER CASE; 21S. PER GALLON.
DELIVERY FREE.



Mat. Tel. 085. Dispensary Street, Alnwick.

ROBERT C. SCOTT,

WATCHMAKER AND JEWELLER.
GENERAL FURNISHING IRONMONGER.

BONDGATE WITHIN, ALNWICK.

All Orders punctually attended to.
SPORTING AMMUNITION A.ND FISHING TACKLE.




CASTLE HOTEL,

Berwick>or>TweecL



Situated close to Station. Rebuilt recently.

The most comfortable Hotel in Town
for Tourists.



GOLF, , FISHING * and , SHOOTING.



Large Livery Stables and Posting. Boots meets trains.

C. HOPPER, Proprietor.

W. C. GAVERHILL & CO., LTD.,

General Furnishing Ironmongers,
Electricians, Bell-Hangers,
Smiths and Horseshoers.

BERWICK-ON-TWEED.



CHINA, GLASS, SILVER, ELECTRO-PLATE, SPORTING REQUISITES,
GRATES, RANGES, MANTELS.

Telegrams: "Caverhill, Berwick." Telephone: 167.



THOMAS FOREMAN,




LOWICK, BEAL.

ESTABLISHED FOR NEARLY A CENTURY.
Minced Collops. Pickled Tongues. Sausages, etc.

JOHN WHELLENS,

:: Hay and Straw Merchant, ::
Agent for Seeds and Manures,

FENKLE STREET, ALNWICK.



Towers & Bishop



manufacturing Confectioners,
81, High St., Berwick-on-T\veed.



6J$ <> <$>




&



MAKERS OF THE CELEBRATED



4 Tweedslde KDck,'



ihc latest novelties in Confections alwaps in Stock.



KING'S ARAS
HOTEL,



BERWICK- ON -TWEED.



*********



First-Class Cuisine.

Posting in all its Branches.

MOTOR GARAGE.

Petrol Supplied.




H. RE1NECKE.



Nat. Telephone, No. 37.



Telegrams : " King's Arms, Berwick.



High-Class Groceries at City Prices.



RENTON fr CO.,

Family Grocers,

Wine and Spirit JVLerehants,

Provision Dealers,

III to 117, High Street,

BERWICK -ON -TWEED.



Goods Delivered in Holy Island by
our own Vans on alternate Mondays.

Sole Agents in Berwick for . . .

Whitbread's Ales and Stout.



PRICE LIST FREE

Telephone No.



SCOTT'S

BLUE BELL HOTEL,



BELFORD, Northumberland.



FAMILY and COMMERCIAL.



Within easy distance of . . .
Holy Island, Chillingham Castle,
Bamburgh Castle, Flodden Field,
- etc,, etc., etc. -



POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES,



TERMS MODERATE.



Telegrams: " SCOTT, Belford."



Established 1776.



DUNLOFS

UP-TO-DATE DRAPERY WAREHOUSE

IS ONE OF THE SIGHTS OF BERWICK.

In our bright and enlarged Warehouse we are in constant receipt

of all the Latest Creations, and an inspection of our Stock will

be of mutual advantage.

WE OFFER THE LATEST NOVELTIES IN
NECKWEAR, GLOVES, AND UP-TO-DATE
NOVELTIES IN COSTUMES AND SKIRTS.



DUNLOP'S FOR MILLINERY.

The Latest and Best at the most Moderate Prices.

Our Stock is replete with every Novelty
in our Famous

ST. MARGARET PERFECT FITTING BLOUSE.



JAMES DUNLOP & SON

(Stuart Brothers' Successors),

42, 55, 57 & 59, High Street,

^. BERWICK-UPON-TWEED.



GUIDE



TO



HOLY ISLAND:

Onsula Sacra),
Formerly " Lindisfarne,"



'AND ITS 'ASSOCIATIONS:
DESCRIPTIVE & HISTORICAL.



SECOND EDITION.

(Entered at Stationers' Hall.)



Sold by all Booksellers, Stationers and News Agents, and at
Beal, Belford, Berwick and Newcastle-upon-Tyne Railway Stations,
also by Mr. Yetts, Caretaker of Ruins; Mr. Bell, Post Office; Mrs.
Cromarty ; at the School House, Holy Island, and at the Plough
Hotel, Beal.



Andrew Reid U Company, Limited,

Printers and Publishers, Newcastle-upon-Tyne,

1909.



DEDICATED

(by fermission)

TO

THE LORD BISHOP

OF THE

DIOCESE

OF

NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE,

NORTHUMBERLAND.



PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.



IT was in January, 1907, that I commenced to pen the
initial pages of the little book on Holy Island, which the
general public took up so responsively. In the follow-
ing June, simultaneously with the inaugural opening of the
golf course, the book was offered for sale.

Feeling confident that a dissemination of the entrancingly
interesting history connected with this first northern home of
Christianity is popular, I have endeavoured to add fresh
matter and up-to-date items, as well as additional ecclesias-
tical history, which doubtless will be welcomed by the lovers of
church architecture in general.

For this great kindness in revising the first edition, my
best thanks are here given to the Right Rev. Bishop Mitchin-
son, Master of Pembroke College, Oxford. I desire also to
acknowledge the great help the Rev. Dr. Astley has rendered
by his contribution of ecclesiastical history, to the many Holy
Island friends who have readily contributed valuable items,
the vicar (Rev. I. Crawshaw), who placed the Church Registers
at my disposal, and the Editor of the Shooting Times for the
loan of illustrations.

Neither can I omit the kindness of both Sir Ralph Payne-
(Jallwey, Bart., and Stanley Duncan, Esq., the President and
Secretary of the Wildfowlers' Association respectively, whose
notes will doubtless be read with great interest by many.

My sincere thanks are also given to the artist, Robert
Spence, Esq., for his permission to use the copy of his famous
picture "St. Cuthbert on the Fames."



879188



NETTLESHIP & Co.,

HLNWICK,

MANUFACTURERS OF HIGH-CLASS



*ane "RuHt and
Tgreenheart



SUITABLE FOR ALL KINDS OF FISHING.

BAGS, BASKETS, REELS, LINES,
TACKLE, etc.

SEA REELS & LINES

OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS.



GUNS, CARTRIDGES, and
SHOOTING REQUISITES.

CATALOGUES FREE.



SPORTING GOODS DEPOT,

ALNWICK.



To the general public I am vastly indebted for the sale of
my feeble first attempt which was taken up so readily.

In conclusion I would ask my Island friends not to be too
severe in their criticisms* of this little book, which has been
compiled with no other object in view than to furnish visitors,
tourists, and others with a general survey of the points of
interest in and around the Island ; historical dates, sensational
episodes, heroic rescues, etc., which should be a means of
making their rambles around the shore and over the Island
the more enjoyable. What has been omitted one's own
imagination can easily conjure up in such a romantic spot.

I would also ask the visitors as they wander o'er the sand-
hills and inhale the life-giving breezes of rich ozone, or quietly
sit and watch the ebb and flow of the tide on the shore or
pebble beach, to think kindly of this little Island and its in-
habitants, and to send up to the Heavenly Shrine a silent
prayer that this little speck of land may, in the years to come,
be blessed with peace and prosperity.

Yours faithfully,

W. HALLIDAT,

Fell. Soc. Litt.
(London).

HOLY ISLAND, BEAL, R.S.O.,
July, 1909.



A HISTORICAL FACT.

100 YEARS' REPUTATION.

TUlan's Higb'Class Teas. :: ::

Allan's Perfection Flour. :: ::

"Allan's Best Branded Provisions.

"Allan's General Groceries. :: ::

A GOOD GUIDE BOOK.

ALLAN'S CASH PRICE LIST.



QUALITY and PRICES will
compare with any bouse in the trade.

On Orders amounting to 1 and
upwards a Discount of 2J per cent.

NOTE. Our Representative visits each
district monthly.

Goods delivered by our own Vans.



JOHN WM. ALLAN,



FAMILY GROCER,



Tea, Flour, and Provision Merchant,
N. - Tel. 38. .GiSi^ ALNWICK.




THE LATE MAJOR-GENERAL SIR WM. GROSSMAN, K.C.M.G.




THE LATE LORD OF THE MANOR

L. MORLEY GROSSMAN ESQ.



CONTENTS.



Preface 3

Map 12

Its Position Geographically ... ... ... 17

Its Resources 17

The Inhabitants 18

Its Climate 21

Accommodation in Hotels and Private Houses ... ... ... 24

The Tide ,26

The Danger in Crossing the S:\nds... ... ... ... ... 26

The Parish Church ... 27

Other Places of Worship 33

Pilgrimages ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 33

Charities 36

The Castle 37

Priory Ruins ... ... ... ... ... ... 40

Periods in English Architecture ... ... ... 42

Miscellaneous Items of Interest .. ... ... ... ... 42

Royal Visit to Holy Island .. ... ... ... ... ... 45

Holy Island Lifeboats ... ... 46

Lifeboat Crew .. ... . . ... ... ... ... ... 49

The Wreck of the " Forfarshire " 50

Grace Darling... ... ... ... ... ... 54

Sports and Pastimes ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 58

Golfiana 58

Progress of Golf on Holy Island ... ... ... ... ... 60

Cheviot 62

Wildfowl Shooting on Holy Island 63

The Birds of Holy Island ... 68

The Birds on the Farnes 69

Capture of a Seal at Holy Island ... ... ... 73

The Priory, Lindisfarne ... ... 75

St. Cuthbert being offered the Bishopric of Hexham 76

Disinterment of St. Cuthbert's Body ... 79

The Second Disinterment of St. Cuthbert's Bodv 80



FINEST

Teas, Coffees <** Provisions

DELIVERED ON THE ISLAND
EVERY FOURTH SATURDAY
BY OUR OWN VANS. . . .

Our traveller trill cull three days previous to delivery, on a request so to do.

Orders of 10s. Value and upwards railed to
Beal Station, Carriage Paid.



CASH PRICE LIST FREE ON APPLICATION,



R. DODDS & SON,

THE ORIENTAL AND . .
NEW CENTURY CAFES,

19, 21, & 23, High Street,

Telephone NO. 5 xi. Berwick-Oil -Tweed.

Telegrams: "TEA," Berwick.



Contents continued.

PAGE

Return to Lindisfarne ... ... ... ... 33

Other Items 83

St. Cuthbert's Cave 84

lona (Island of Waves) ... ... 86

St. Cuthbert's, Philbeach Gardens, Kensington ... ... 88

Early History and Associations of Lindisfarne or Holy Island 90

Lindisfarne Priory, Northumberland ... 104



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.



The late Major-General Sir Wm. Grossman, K.C.M.G. ... 7

L. Morley Grossman, Esq. ... ... ... ... ... 8

The Author 15

Mr. Cromarty and Friends ... ... ... 19

The Way of the Pilgrims 27

Church and Ruins ... .. 29

The Vicar of Holy Island 31

The Castle 39

The Market Cross 44

Captain of Lifeboat and his Mates ... ... ... ... 47

Wreck of the " Forfarshire " ... 51

Grace Darling ... ... 55

Longstone Lighthouse ... ... ... ... 57

The Author on the First Green ... ... ... 59

A Famous Sportsman on the Flats, Holy Island 65

Another Keen Sportsman, Stanley Duncan, Esq. ... ... 66

Young Kittiwakes on Nest ... ... ... ... ... 69

The Pinnacles 71

Kittiwakes and Guillemots on Staple Island 72

Eider Duck and Nest 73

Puffins... 74

Cormorants on their Nests 75

St. Cuthbert being offered Bishopric of Hexham ... ... 81

Lindisfarne Priory ... ... 107

Ruins and Custodian ... ... 112



THOMPSON BROTHERS,

General $ Furnishing Ironmongers,
China, Glass $ earthenware Merchants.



AGENTS FOR

Goss" Armorial China. New Hudson Cycles.

Eley's Cartridges. Forgan's Golf Clubs.



41 & 43, H^h Street, BerwicK-on-Tweed.



W. J. BLACK, M.P.S,

DISPENSING AND
PHOTOGRAPHIC CHEMIST

(From Savory & Moore, Chemists to the King, London, W.)

Prescriptions of every kind dispensed

with the utmost accuracy and the

most approved methods.

Photographic Goods and Chemicals.

Surgical Appliances and Dressings.



PLEASE NOTE
ADDRESS:-



17, Main St., Tweed mouth,

BERWICK-ON-TWEED. Telephone 195.



DIRECT SUPPLY.



Walter Willson,



firoccrs and provision [percnants




14, HIDE HILL,
BERWICK-UPON-TWEED.



Ulil!lli:inl I I I I I I I I I I I I I I In



DIRECT IMPORTERS.



Green Fruit, Provisions, etc.



ORDERS DELIVERED
Each Alternate Friday.



SHIPPING SUPPLIED




YOURS FAITHFULLY,

THE AUTHOR.



PAXTON & PUBVES, LTD.,

DRAPERS and WAREHOUSEMEN,
LADIES' and GENTLEMEN'S OUTFITTERS,

Scotsgate, Berwick*on-Tweed.



Departments.



Millinery. Costumes.

Dresses. Blouses.

Gloves. Hosiery.

Underwear. Umbrellas.

Sunshades. Carpets. Curtains.
Real Harris

Homespun T -weeds.

Travelling Cases.



AGENTS FOR

CELLULAR CLOTHING (Acrtex Patent).
JAEGER'S SANITARY WOOLLEN GOODS.
44 BURBERRY'S " WATERPROOFS.



HOLY ISLAND.

(LINDISFARNE.)



Its Position Geographically.

THE ISLAND is somewhat triangular, having its base sea-
ward, and its apex towards the mainland, Goswick and Beal
being about a couple of miles distant (both places having
stations on the North Eastern Railway), from the apex, or
three-and-a-half to four miles from the main street.

It is some 7 miles south of Berwiek-on-Tweed and about
equi-distant from Edinburgh on the north, and Newcastle on
the south (60 miles approximately).

It lies just below the 55th parallel of latitude, and is If
degrees west longitude (seven minutes difference in time).

A journey of about 360 miles from London would land a
tourist or other individual at Beal Station, in about seven
hours, by a good train.

Its Resources.

HOLY ISLAND is not a fashionable seaside resort, for it is
off the beaten track, and its resources are somewhat limited ;
but it has a great and unique charm of its own, and stray
visitors, or " birds of passage" as they are sometimes called
by frowning landladies, often are tempted to remain for a
time, and return to the Island, year after year.

At high tide the Island is cut off from the mainland,
except for boats, and the telephone (thanks to the exertions



18

of a former vicar in the matter of the telephone) ; but as the
sea recedes, the sand is left bare and perfectly safe for walking
or driving, except in one place, and that is only occasional,
where the river Lindis, a fresh water stream, has worn a deep
crevice for itself across the path.

The journey across can be performed in perfect safety by
daylight, two or two-and-a-half hours before high water or
the same after (three hours would be safer). Conveyances are
sent to meet any train when ordered, either by letter or
telephone, by the following persons :

Mr. Robert Bell, Post Office ;

Mr. James Brigham, Holy Island;

Mr. George Wilson, Northumberland Arms Hotel;

Mr. Morton, Plough Hotel, Beal.

The post cart will land a person at Beal Station at 8 o'clock
in the morning, or mid-day, for Is. The general charge for
a spring cart is 4s. either way. The postal arrangements are
good. Delivery once a day, generally at 9'30 a.m., and
collection of letters to suit the tide, but usually at 1 p.m.



The Inhabitants.

THE present inhabitants are robust and self-reliant in
character, with a fund of energy which comes well to their
aid in the struggle for existence, as it did their ancestors, under
different conditions. Like all Northumbrians they are kind-
hearted and hospitable. If they are brusque in manner, they
are also patriotic and interested in things national.

The people on the island are kind to a degree, and it is a
pleasure to see their frank but tanned and weather-beaten
faces. Their physique is very fine, capable of almost boundless
endurance and fatigue a race eminently fitted for this bleak
and isolated region.

For boating, sailing, rowing, or fishing, the visitor is per-
fectly safe in their hands, and extortion is happily out of their
vocabulary. They are no amateurs on the waters as many a
record of wreck-disaster testifies, to their honour. They will
be found ready at all times for a chat and can be " drawn " to
tell of thrilling experiences of bye-gone days. But they are



19

not by any means ignorant. They avail themselves of the
advantages of an excellent library and reading room thanks
indeed to the beneficence of the Grossman family (successive
lords of the manor of Holy Island), which is to them a second
home during the winter ef enings, providing as it does a rich
supply of daily news and recreation, in the shape of games,




A WELL-KNOWN ISLAND FlSHMERCHANT
MR. CROMARTY AND FRIENDS.

cards, draughts, and even chess, as well as bagatelle. There
are at present over 50 members, who pay the small subscrip-
tion of Id. per week, and it is customary to pay it in a lump
sum of 2s. 2d. every half-year (March and September), when
there is a general meeting. At this same meeting a half-
yearly sale of papers is made by auction.



20

Many of the visitors become members of the library on the
same or equivalent terms, and use the reading room, aiding
the institute with a deposit in the visitors' box.

There is a valuable endowment left by the Grossman family
to enable the committee to carry it on with success.

Like all islanders they are proud of their sea-girt and
historic home, and always speak of it as " The Island. "

They are essentially a peaceable and law-abiding people,
and the writer could give many instances of small favours and
services having been promptly and heartily reciprocated. No
kindness is overlooked by them.

There are other advantages which might be enumerated in
residing on Holy Island ; for instance, there is no need of
elaborate dress, and the "tripper" has not spoiled either the
place or people. All kinds of fish are caught here in season,
and there is always a choice for visitors.

As for the natives, or residents, during the winter, fresh
fish from the boats can be bought at the rate of Is. 2d. per
stone, and sometimes at Is.

The shell-fish is also to be had cheaply.

Of the smaller kinds of shell-fish, mussels, limpets, winkles,
cockles, etc., they can be picked almost anywhere, and are of
excellent quality and size.

Haddocks, codlings, flat fish, etc., from September to
January ; crab and lobster onward to June and July ; herring,
July, August, and part, of September.

Cultivation is carried forward in the interior of the Island,
and the sand banks and hollows abound with rabbits.

These and the few head of game are strictly preserved by
the lord of the manor, but rabbits may be purchased from the
keeper in the season, or from the butchers.

The commissariat of the place is well looked after as the
bi-weekly visits of Messrs. Gordon and Foreman from Lowick
will testify, their supplies of Kyloe beef and Cheviot mutton
being invariably good and tender.

There is no scarcity of food on the Island.

There is also an interesting little industry which finds
favour with a few of the female inhabitants, viz., that of
basket making, variously and artistically adorned with shells
and corraline substances found on the shores.



21

An octogenarian named Margaret Shell made a very pretty
basket, which was duly presented to H.R.H. the Princess of
Wales on July 2, 1908, at Holy Island.

These pretty products find a ready market amongst the
more wealthy visitors, and tjiey are most elaborately and at the
same time neatly put together, and form a pleasing memento.

Every kind of seabird can be seen from the shores or by
cruising about the Island, and some excellent sport is enjoyed
by both the natives and those gentlemen from a distance, who
come here regularly, winter after winter, for punt shooting
among the brent geese, which, during some hard seasons, come
in dense flocks.

Its Climate.

THE different authorities (medical and otherwise), who
from time to time have expressed an opinion, agree that the
climate is very healthy, and strengthening, for people who are
free from pulmonary diseases.

The class of cases likely to derive benefit from a stay on
the Island will, said the late Dr. Ellis, include the following :

Debility, especially that of the jaded brain of town dweller
and worker ; nervous debility, leading to hysteria and depression
of spirits ; spinal weakness and sleeplessness ; scrofulous complaints,
including enlarged glands, weak joints, and relaxation of the joint
ligaments in children ; ricketts and its consequences ; enlarged and
stiff joints left by rheumatism, and the slow debility following
rheumatism and rheumatic fever. In some cases in which there is
a loss of appetite, and a condition of the system to that produced
by blood poisoning, from living in an impure and vitiated atmos-
phere, notably the sick-chamber, from prolonged nursing, and
where, although there may be no wound, the blood is as certainly
poisoned as if inoculation had taken place. In some of the pelvic
diseases of women, in which sea-bathing, hot or cold, is indicated
as a remedy; in short, in many cases in which the system is "out
of sorts," without having any organic disease, the patient is
relaxed, and requires a general bracing up, and consolidation of
health before facing our prolonged and severe winter. I would
not think the climate suitable for cases of asthma, or in which
there was a tendency to bronchial irritation or congestion, or
where congestion of the lungs had been a symptom, nor for con-
sumptives. The place is adapted to restore the system where it
has been poisoned by excess in, and prolonged abuse of, alcohol.



22

From the natural situation of the Island and its exposure
to sea winds, the winter months and the early spring are not
considered beneficial to persons of weakly constitution, but
even those may derive great benefit from the life-giving breezes
during the months of June to September. To the person con-
stitutionally strong it matters little as to the time selected for
a visit ; he will inhale oxygen and ozone in such proportions
as perhaps he has never done before ad libitum.

The bathing is excellent and safe, and the shores are perfect
in that respect for barefooted children, who with spade and
bucket can revolutionise the modern builder also ad libitum.

It is a recognised fact that the best season for visitors is
from July to the end of October, though June is usually a fine
month. Fogs are unknown, but at the end of the year a " sea
fret, " as the Scotch term it, usually comes in.

Holy Island may generally be said to be tranquil without
being dull, and the interesting associations stimulate the mind
and stir the memory, while its natural beauties and attractions
are a real source of enjoyment and delight to the visitor. His
mind is carried back for centuries instinctively when he looks
upon the stupendous and magnificent ruin with its matchless
rainbow arch, and then his thoughts conjure up, and his mind
reverts to the time when the last relics will entirely disappear.

He hears the falling waves break upon the shore, and he
sees the fleet of hardy island fishers disappear in the twilight.

There is perhaps not much to attract the ordinary tourist,
who loves rather the crowd and gaiety of the fashionable,
up-to-date watering place, but to the antiquary, lover of
nature, and the artist more especially, there is a perfect mine
of historic lore, and the ocean, in its ever changing moods
and aspects, is most beautiful.


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