alluvial description, and the river is a good deal spread out and
subdivided by islands, covered with moderate sized grasses. On leaving
the second Kioukdweng the same scenery occurs, the banks are generally
tolerably high, often gravelly or clayey. About Tsagaiya, a few miles
below the mouth of the Shewe Lee, low hills approach the river, and they
continue along one or both banks {139} at variable distance until one
reaches Ava. These hills are all covered with a partial and stunted
vegetation, chiefly of thorny shrubs, and present uniformly a rugged
raviny and barren appearance. The scenery of the river is in many places
highly picturesque, and in the upper Kioukdweng and portion of the
second, where there is a remarkable cliff of about 3,000 feet in height,
bold and even grand.

_Villages and Towns_. - These although numerous compared with the
almost deserted tracts hitherto passed, are by no means so much so as to
give an idea of even a moderate population. From the mouth of the
Mogoung river to the Kioukdweng there are several villages, but all are
small, mean, and insignificant. Strange to say, they are defenceless,
although the neighbouring Kukkeens are dangerous and cruel neighbours.
Nothing can be more calculated to shew the weakness of the Burmese
government than the fact, that the most mischievous and frequent
aggressions of these hill tribes always go unpunished, although a short
time after an attack the very band by whom it has been made will enter
even large towns to make purchases, perhaps with money the produce of
their robberies.

The upper Kioukdweng has a very scanty population, consisting of a
distinct race of people called Phoons: who are sub-divided into two
tribes, the greater and lesser Phoons. About 12 villages occur in this
defile, and Mr. Bayfield says that the population is almost entirely
confined to the banks of the river: all these villages are small.

Between the defile and Bamo a good number of villages occur, the largest
of which does not contain more than 100 houses, the generality are small
and mean. Bamo, which is a place of celebrity, and is perhaps the third
town in Burmah, is situated on the left bank of the river, which is here,
including the two islands which subdivide it into three channels, about a
mile and a quarter in width; the channel on which Bamo is situated is the
principal one. The town occupies rather a high bank of yellow clay,
along which it extends for rather more than a mile, its extreme breadth
being perhaps 350 yards. It is surrounded by a timber stockade, the
outer palisades being well pangoed; the defences had just undergone
repair owing to an expected attack from the Kukkeens. It contains within
the stockade rather less than 600 houses, (the precise number was
ascertained personally by Mr. Bayfield,) and including the suburbs, which
consist of two small villages at the northern end, one at the southern,
and one occupied by Assamese at the eastern, it contains about 750
houses. These are generally of the usual poor and mean description;
indeed, not even excepting the Governor's house, there is not a good
Burman or Shan house in the place. One street which occupies a portion
of the river bank, is inhabited by Chinese, and contains about 100
houses; these are built of unburnt brick, and have a peculiar blueish
appearance; none are of any size. The best building in Bamo is the
Chinese place of worship. Those occupied by the Burmese have the usual
form. The country adjoining Bamo is flat, dry, and I should think
unproductive; it is intersected by low swampy ravines, one or two of
which extend into the town. To the south there is an extensive marsh,
partially used for rice-cultivation.

The population of Bamo including the suburbs, may be estimated at about
4500, of whom 4 or 500 are Chinese. The governor is a bigoted Burman, of
disagreeable manners; he expends much money in the erection of Pagodas,
while he leaves the streets, roads and bridges by which the ravines are
passed, in a ruinous and disgraceful state.

The Bazaar of Bamo is generally well supplied: British piece goods and
woollen cloths are procurable, but at a high price: the show of Chinese
manufactures is much better, particularly on the arrival of a caravan;
considerable quantities of Tea are likewise brought in the shape of flat
cakes, of the size of a dessert plate, and about two inches thick. This
tea is of the black sort, and although very inferior to the Chinese case
teas, is a far better article than that of Pollong. In addition to this,
warm jackets lined with fur, straw hats, silk robes, skull-caps, and
sugar-candy are procurable; pork of course is plentiful, and is
excessively fat; grain, vegetables and fish are plentiful. On the whole
Bamo is a busy and rather flourishing place: it derives its consequence
entirely from its being a great emporium of trade with the Chinese, who
come here annually in large numbers; for the accommodation of these
people and their caravans, two or three squares, fenced in with bamboos,
are allotted.

The principal article of Burmese export is cotton, and this I believe is
produced for the most part lower down the Irrawaddi.

The climate of Bamo is in April dry and sultry: the range of the
thermometer being from 66 degrees or 68 degrees to 94 degrees or 96
degrees. North-westers are of common occurrence in this month, and are
frequently of extreme severity. I saw very little cultivation about
Bamo, some of the ravines alluded to had lately been under rice-culture;
the chief part of the cultivation for vegetables, etc. is confined to the
sandy islands, which occur here and there.

Of the numerous villages passed between Bamo and Ava not one deserves
especial notice, nor is there one, with the exception of Umeerapoora, the
former capital, which contains 500 houses. Shewegyoo, which formerly
occupied a considerable extent of the left bank near the south opening of
the second Kioukdweng had been burnt by the orders of the Monein
Myoowoon, on account of their having supplied troops to the emissaries of
the Tharawaddi. Kioukgyee, the residence of the above governor, had a
short time before our arrival been invested by a force in the interest of
the Tharawaddi, but had been repulsed. The governor was to proceed with
the whole population, amounting to several hundred souls, to Bamo, to
join his forces with those of the Bamo governor. This part of the
country was most unsettled and almost deserted. On reaching Katha the
state of the country was more tranquil, all the people below this point
having espoused the cause of the Tharawaddi. Katha contains 200 houses,
and has a rather respectable bazaar; it is well situated, and has the
most eligible site in my opinion, of all the towns hitherto seen. The
most remarkable object is a noble Kioung, or Mosque, built by the head-
man of the place; this is one of the finest now existing in Burma.

The only other large place is Sheenmaga, about a day's journey from Ava.
This is said to contain 1,000 houses. An extensive fire had lately
occurred here. I counted 200 houses, and judging from the extent of the
ruins, I should say it might probably have numbered between 4 and 500.
There are several villages contiguous to this, and I think that the
district immediately contiguous is more populous than any part hitherto
seen.

During the above portion of the journey our halts were as follows: -

1. Tapaw.
2. Mogoung river.
3. Mogoung river.
4. Lemar, in the upper Kioukdweng.
5. Bamo.
6. Tsenkan.
7. Kioukgyee.
8. Katha.
9. Tsagaya.
10. Tagoung.
11. Male, at the entrance of the lower Kioukdweng.
12. Kabuet, in the lower Kioukdweng.
13. Male.
14. Menghoon.
15. Ava.

This distance down the Irrawaddi may, in a fast boat, be performed in ten
days, but owing to the disturbed state of the country we were compelled
to avail ourselves of the first opportunity that offered to enable us to
reach Ava; in addition the proper number of boatmen was not procurable,
everybody being afraid of approaching the capital even a few miles.

The chief product I saw was Teak, of this there were large rafts at
Tsenkan and elsewhere. This tree seems to abound in the hills forming
the NE. boundaries of Burmah. I did not, however, see any of large size.

Tea is found on hills to the east of Bamo, and at a distance of one day's
journey from that place. Through the kindness of Mr. Bayfield, I was
enabled to procure specimens; the leaves were decidedly less coarse, as
well as smaller, than those of the Assamese plants, and they occurred
both serrated and entire. No use is made of the wild plants in this
direction, and the Chinese at Bamo, asserted that it was good for
nothing. It must be remembered, however, that none of them had seen the
plant cultivated in China. Indeed the only real Chinaman we saw, was one
at Kioukgyee, serving the Myoowoon as a carpenter: this man had been to
England twice, and talked a little English.

Cotton is, I was informed, extensively cultivated.

But the most valuable product is the Ruby, which is procured from hills
to the eastward of Tsenbo, and which are, I believe, visible from the
opposite town, Mala. From the same place and to the SE., low hills are
visible, from which all the marble in extensive use for the carving of
images, is obtained; this marble has been pronounced by competent
authority to be of first-rate quality.

_Population_. - This must be considered as scanty. From a list of towns
and villages, observed by Captain Hannay, between Ava and Mogoung
inclusive, I estimated the population at 100,000 souls, but from this one-
third at least must be deducted. In this estimate of the number of
houses, Captain Hannay was probably guided, either by the Burmese census,
or by the statement of the writer who accompanied him. From the numbers
given by this officer, in almost every case one-third, and occasionally
one-half, or even more, must be deducted: as instances, I may cite his
statement of the number of houses in Bamo and Katha.

In almost every case Mr. Bayfield counted all the houses, and in all
doubtful cases, I counted them also at his request, so that I am enabled
to speak with great confidence on this point.

As a collateral proof of the scanty population of this extensive portion
of the Burmese territory, I may allude to the fact that Bamo, the third
place in Burmah, and the emporium of great part of an extensive Chinese
trade, contains only even at the rate of seven souls to each house, which
is two too many, 4,250 inhabitants. The capital may be adduced as an
additional instance; for including the extensive suburbs, no one
estimated it as having a larger population than 100,000. It must be
remembered also, that there is no doubt, but that the banks of the
Irrawaddi are more populous than any other portion of the kingdom.

Throughout the above rather long journey, we were treated, with one
exception, tolerably well; indeed our delays arose from the
unwillingness, real or pretended, of the authorities to forward us on
while the country remained so unsettled. The headman of Kamein on our
first arrival was extremely civil, but on our return after he had
received news of the revolt of the Tharawaddi, he behaved with great
insolence, and actually drew his dha on Mr. Bayfield. It must be
remembered however that he had been brought to task by the Mogoung
authorities for having, as it was said, accepted of a douceur for
allowing us to proceed to the serpentine mines.

The general idea entertained by the people through whose countries we
passed, was, that we had been sent to report upon the country prior to
its being taken under British protection. Of the existence of this idea,
Mr. Bayfield met with some striking proofs.

On reaching Katha our troubles ceased, and these, excepting at Kamein and
Mogoung, only arose from the evident wish of the natives to keep at a
distance from us, and not to interfere in one way or the other. At
Mogoung I consider it probable that we should have been detained had it
not been for the firm conduct of Mr. Bayfield, and his great knowledge of
the Burmese character. At this place the authority of the Myoowoon, who
was absent in Hookhoong, was totally disregarded, and his brother the
Myoowoah, was in confinement, the Shan Matgyee having espoused the cause
of the prince Tharawaddi.

_Conclusion_. - For the brief and rapid manner in which I have run through
this last section of my report, as well as for having forsaken the
arrangement adopted in the previous sections, I trust I shall be excused.
In the first place, this portion of the route had been previously
travelled over by Captain Hannay and by Mr. Bayfield, by whom much
additional information will be laid before Government; and in the second
place, I would advert to the hurried nature of this part of our journey,
and to the disturbed state of the country. For similar reasons I have
only drawn up this account to the period of my reaching Ava. It will be
at once seen that the information might have been much more extensive,
especially as regards the revenues of the districts, but I abstained from
interfering with subjects which were in every respect within the province
of Mr. Bayfield; and the minute and accurate manner in which this officer
performed the duties consigned to him, reconciled me at once to the
secondary nature of the objects which were left for my examination.

I subjoin a tabular view of the marches, this will not agree entirely
with those given in the body of the report, as one or two of those were
unavoidably short. I give the table to shew the shortest period in which
the journey could be accomplished by an European without constantly
overfatiguing himself. If the total distance be compared with an
estimate made from charts, all of which however are imperfect so far as
the country between Meinkhoong and Beesa is concerned, the tortuousness
of our course will be at once evident.

Marches. Miles

1 From Sadya to Noa Dehing Mookh, 6
2 To Rangagurreh, 12
3 To Moodoa Mookh, 12
4 To Kidding, 9
5 To Namroop Puthar, 12
6 To Beesa Lacoom, 12
7 To Halting place in the hills, 12
8 To Darap Panee, 12
9 To the Namtuseek, 12
10 Namtuseek, 10
11 To the Boundary Nullah, 12
12 To the Namaroan, 15
13 Namaroan, 13
14 To Khathung Khioung, 15
15 To Khussee Khioung, 13
16 To Kuttack Bhoom, 13
17 To Namtuseek, 10
18 To Nhempean, 18
19 To Kulleyang, 17
20 To Tsilone, 10
21 To Meinkhoong, 17
22 To Wullabhoom, 13
23 To Halting place towards the
Mogoung river, 22
24 Mogoung river, 15
25 Ditto ditto, 13
26 Ditto ditto, 14
27 Kamein, {145} 14
28 Mogoung, 25
- -
Total number of miles, 378

The remaining distance performed in
boats may be thus estimated down the
Mogoung river to the Irrawaddi, 45

From the confluence of the Mogoung
river down the Irrawaddi to Ava, 240
- -
663
- -

Allowing twelve days for the performance of this last portion, which
however is too short a time, the entire distance may be performed in
forty days.


CHAPTER VIII.


_Notes made on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to_
_Rangoon_.

_28th May_. - I left Ava and halted about two miles above Menboo.

_29th May_. - Continuing the journey, the country appears flat with
occasionally low hills as about Kioukloloing, no large villages occur;
the river is sub-divided by churs; no large grasses to be seen, and the
vegetation is arid. Bombax is the chief tree: Mudar and Zizyphus occur:
Guilandina, Crotolaria a large Acanthacea, and a Jasminioides shrub are
the most common plants: Borassus is abundant: Fici occur about villages.
The banks are generally sandy, not high.

Yandebo. This is a wretched village; barren plains bounded to the east
by barren rather elevated hills; base jungly. Observed the tree under
which the treaty was signed with the Burmese at the close of the late
war. It is an ordinary mango, near a pagoda on a plain with two large
fig trees. I counted to-day 28 boats sailing up between this and our
halting place of yesterday, mostly large praows. The banks present few
trees, are flat, barren, and from being occasionally overflowed, adapted
to paddy.

Halted at Meengian, which is a middling sized village on the left bank,
about a mile below Tarof myoo.

_30th May_. - I made an excursion into the country which is dry, barren,
and sandy, with a descent towards the banks of the river. Zizyphus,
Acacia, Euphorbia 20 feet high, Calotropis, Capparis 2, etc., occur all
the same as before, only one Ehretiacea appears to be new. Hares are
very common. Likewise red and painted Partridges, and Quail. Carthamus
and Tobacco are cultivated, specially the latter at Meengian. The most
common tree here, is Urticea procera? which has always a peculiar
appearance. The country towards Pukoko becomes prettier, the left bank
wooded, and the ground sloped very gradually up to Kionksouk, which is
barren, and 2,000 feet high at least, with the slopes covered with
jungle.

_31st May_. - Passed Pagam, a straggling town of some size, famous for
its numerous old pagodas of all sorts. The surface of the country is
raviny, and the vegetation continues precisely the same. Below Pagam,
the range of low hills becomes very barren: altogether the country is
very uninteresting.

The low range of hills on the right bank is nearly destitute of
vegetation. The hills present a curious appearance of ridges, sometimes
looking like walls. The country continues the same.

Halted opposite Yowa.

_June 1st_. - A low range of hillocks here occurs on the left bank, and
as in other places, consisting of sandstone with stunted and scanty
vegetation.

Tselow is a large place on the left bank, the river is here much spread
out, with large sand banks. The hills on the right bank present the same
features; passed Pukangnai, a large village on the left bank. Passed
Pukkoko, Pagam, Tselow, etc., the hills about this last place abound with
Prionites. Strong wind prevails.

_June 2nd_. - Yeanangeown 10 A.M. The country continues exactly similar
to that already observed - hillocks intersected by ravines, loose
sandstone, very barren in appearance. Vegetation is the same, but more
stunted; fossil wood is common, especially in the bottom of ravines.
{147} Of fossils very few were seen, but more are to be procured by
digging. The most common trees are Zizyphus, Acacia, and a Capparis: the
most common grass Aristida. Arrived at Yeanangeown, a busy place judging
from the number of boats.

Wind less strong. At 2 P.M. stopped at Wengma-thoat, where Zizyphus is
extremely common. Euphorbia seems rather disappearing.

The plants met with at the halting place six miles above Yeanang, were
Euphorbia, Olax, Zizyphus, Mimosa, Carissa, Ximenia, Prionites,
Calotropis, Gymnema, Capparis pandurata et altera species arborea,
Murraya rare, Gossypium frutex 6-8-petal, Xanthophyllum blue, petiolis
alatis of Tagoung, Sidae sp. On the right bank flat churs continue
covered with a small Saccharum. Vegetation more abundant and greener
than before. Ficus again occurs and Stravadium occasionally.

Passed 5 P.M. Memboo at a large village on right bank, containing perhaps
200 houses. The river below this runs between two ranges of low hills,
similar in every respect to those already passed. A Kukkeen woman was
observed, who appeared to have a blue face, looking perfectly frightful.

_June 3rd_. - Maguay. Reached this place at 8 P.M. It is on the left
bank. It is a place of some importance. Many boats lying in the stream.
The country, is of the same dry, arid description: the banks of the river
are however lower than previously observed.

Passed Esthaiya, a small village on the right bank, at 6 A.M. Adelia
nereifolia continues common in some places.

Dhebalar, Meemgoon, two villages nearly opposite, neither of these
villages large. Ficus and Bombax are common; no Euphorbia was observed.

We are now evidently getting within the influence of the Monsoon, as the
vegetation is more green.

Passed Mellun, a village on the right bank. The hills on either side of
the river are higher and better wooded than before observed, and the
river itself is not more than 350 yards broad.

Observed gold washers below Meegyoung-yea, where they find gold, silver,
and rubies by washing the sands. Here Bombax is very common on the right
bank.

Passed Thembounwa, a village on the left bank. The country presents the
same ridges of singular hills formed of veins of slaty, tabular, brown
rock, this is very conspicuous at Thembounwa. The hills on the left bank
above Meeaday are very barren; the banks rocky.

Halted at Khayoo, just above Meeaday, at 7 P.M.

_June 4th_. - Passed Teiyet myoo, a village on the right bank, which
seems to have some cotton trade; the houses along the bank are wretched
in appearance. Meeaday was passed during a squall, I was thus prevented
from making any observation on it. Teiyet is the largest place I have
seen. The country we are now passing is very slightly undulated, soil
light and sandy. Fine tamarind trees occur, also Terminalia. In
addition to the usual plants a Lagerstraemia occurs, which attains the
size of a middling tree, and a frutescent Hypericum, Aristolochia, and
Hedyotis occur. Strong south wind prevails so that we can make no
progress whatever, I therefore went into the jungle and found Stravadium,
a fine Bignonia foliis pinnatis, floribus maximis, fere spitham.
infundibulif. subbilabiat. lacinus crispatis: one or two Acanthaceae, two
Gramineae, two Vandelliae, Bonnaya, Herpestes, Monniera, Rumex, Dentella,
three or four Cyperaceae, Ammannia, Crotalaria on sand banks, Triga in
woods and Bauhinia, Dioscoria, a pretty herbaceous perennial Ardisia,
etc. We have not made two miles since breakfasting at Teiyet, about four
hours ago. Convolvulus pileatus and dwarf bamboo are common on the low
hills. The Lagerstraemia has petals none, or minute squamiform.

Reached Caman Myoo, a village on the right bank, at 7 P.M.

_June 5th_. - Many boats are here, owing to there being an excellent
place of anchorage in still water, protected by an Island, but there are
not many houses in the village.

Below, the river again becomes confined between hills, but above this it
expands. These hills are rather bare: no Euphorbia exists, and the whole
vegetation is changed.

Now passing hills, chiefly covered with bamboos. Bignonia crispa occurs,
and a Scilloid plant out of flower is common. Aroideum, similar to that
of Katha, is common, a new species is likewise found, but it is a
Roxburghia, and rare.

Stravadium has very minute stipules, the habit and gemmation is that of
Ternstraemiaceae, and it perhaps connects this order with Myrtaceae;
Punica from this is certainly distinct, owing praeter alia to its valvate
calyx. Soneratia belongs I suspect to Lythrarieae, connecting it with
Myrtaceae.

The Roxburghia above alluded to, is a distinct genus.

Planta quam juniorem tantum vidi vex spithamaea. Radices plurimae
filiformes, cortice crassa, tenacissima obfibras foliiformas ad vaginam
redacta, superiora petiolique purpureo-brunnei, vernatione involutiva,
flores solitarii in axillis foliorum et vaginarum, albi carneo tincti.
Pedicellis subtereti apice, articulatis, monoicis.

Perianth sub-companulat, 4-sepalum, sepalis lanceolato-oblongis a medio
reflexis, estivat imbricat.

Stam. 4. sepalis alterna, filam subanth. magna, subsagittat, connectivo
magno supra in apiculum longum product, et inter loculos in carinam
(carneam) purpuream, loculi angustissimi, viridis, alabastrus lutescens.
Pollen viridescens. Faemin flos, infimus, unum tantum vidi sepala
longiora herbacea, stam. 0.

Ovarium compressum, fol. carpell () {149}, stylus conicus, ovar viridis,