feet below the highest ground passed on this side of the Kala Panee.
After crossing this torrent, by means of a miserably unsteady wooden
bridge, the ascent is very steep for about 1,200 feet, thence there is a
small descent to Moflong, which I find to be 5,485 feet. Most of the
plants continue. Tradescantia and Commelina become much less common
towards the Kala Panee, as well as the Impatiens of Churra, but their
place is supplied by others. Along 100 yards of the Kala Panee, upwards
of four species may be met with. Polygonum (Bistorta) becomes more
common on the higher ground between Surureem and Kala Panee, thence
diminishing in size and frequency. Polygonum Rheoides becomes abundant
towards a height of 5,200 feet, when Pyrus, an apple-like species, and
Spiraeas make their appearance at 5,300 feet. On the Kala Panee,
Bucklandia re-appears, but thence would seem to cease: on the brow of the
ascent from this, Pedicularis appears in abundance among grasses, with it
_Sphacele_? At the same height, which cannot be less than 5,400 feet,
Carduus or Cnicus, appears. Solidago commences in the valley of the Kala
Panee, but becomes more abundant at higher elevations. Sanguisorba
appears at 5,400 feet, but in small quantities, and at this height
Anisadenia recommences. Epilobium appears at 5,300 feet, continues at
the same elevation to Moflong, where it is common. On the descent to the
Boga Panee, an European form of Euphorbia appears at 5,000 feet with
Viola Patrinia and a Galium asperum. Hieracium appears at about the same
height. Cuscuta is very common from 5 to 5,500 feet, continuing even to
Moflong; the scales of this genus are, it appears to me, mere appendages
of the filaments, and not due to non-development or suppression of parts.
Erythrina, which is found about Churra, is seen on the road to Kala
Panee, apparently quite wild; altitude 5,200 feet: it recommences at
Moflong, where it is common about villages, but never exceeds the size of
a small tree. Commelina bengalensis? continues throughout here and
there, and may be found even about Moflong.

The most striking change occurs, however, in the Pines, which, although
of small stature, exist in abundance on the north side of the Boga Panee;
so far as may be judged of by the naked eye, they disappear on this side,
about a mile to the westward, very few cross the torrent, and few indeed
are found 100 feet above its bed on the south side. I took the height of
the bed of this torrent. Temperature of the air 72 degrees; water boiled
at 204 degrees; which gives the height about 4,400 feet. Between
Surureem and the Boga Panee, many new plants occur; grasses continue, as
also at Moflong, the prevailing feature. The principal new ones occur on
the descent, consisting of two large Andropogons, one closely allied to
A. schaeranthus and a tall Anthistiria habitu A. arundinacea; a beautiful
Saccharum occurs here and there, especially before reaching the Kala
Panee and the Gramina Bromoidea, which is the only really European form.
On the Kala Panee, scarcely any Podostemon griffithia; except a few small
ones, very few signs or appearance of fresh plants. Along the Boga
Panee, among the wet rocks which form its banks, a fine Parnassia; a
trailing Arbutoidea; a very European looking Quercus; Anesadenia
pubescens, a Circaea, Campanulae 2, AEschynomene, Crotalaria, a Serissa?;
this last continuing to Moflong, a fine Osbeckia, and Gnaphalium
aereonitus may likewise be found. On the ascent, few new plants occur;
Rhinanthoidea, Osbeckia nepalensis, and capitata, Conyzoidea, Dipsacus,
Gnaphalium foliis linearibus, Crotolaria hoveoides, Colutoidea, Pteris
(Aquilina.) Scutellaria, Potentilla, Smilax occur at 5,000 feet with
Plantago, Fragaria and Artemisia, as well as lower down. The most
striking plant is a Delphinium, which, at about 5,000 feet, occurs
stunted; this is common about Moflong.

Agrimonia range from 3,500 to 5,500 feet, where they are very common,
Hypericum three sorts occur, H. myrtifolium commences, about Churra, re-
occurs here and there on the road to Moflong, about which it is very
common. H. ovalifolium, is more elevational, scarcely descending below
5,000 feet; H. japonicum is found from towards Mahadeb to Moflong; H.
fimbriatum foliis decussatis, scarcely below 5,000 feet; Leucas galea
brunneo villosa on grassy hills is common towards Boga Panee, and
continues as high as Moflong.

Quercus commences about Mahadeb: a new species occurs on the edge of
woods towards the Kala Panee; altitude 5,000 feet; it nearly commences
with two Rhododendra, which, at least the arborescent one, arrives at
perfection on the Kala Panee.

Viburna continue; Salix (fruticose) commences about 5,000 feet, continues
here and there to Moflong. Buddleia Neemda is found about Churra, but
not commonly; and soon disappears. B. 4-alata commences beyond the
Churra Punjee, and continues as far as Moflong.

Thibaudia buxifolia becomes less common beyond 5,000 feet; other forms of
Ericineae appear in places about 5,000 feet, Gaultheria continuing as far
as Moflong. Eurya species alterum, commences about the same elevation,
continuing to Moflong.

Three species of Spiraea are found between Surureem and Moflong, none
perhaps below 5,000 feet; Prunella occurs about the same height,
continuing as far as Moflong.

On crossing the Boga Panee, the country becomes perhaps more undulated
and much more barren, scarcely any arborescent vegetation is to be seen,
the little woody vegetation consisting of stunted shrubs. Immediately
around Moflong, the country is excessively bare, not a tree is to be
seen, even the sides of ravines being clothed with stunted shrubs.
Berberis asiatica, Viburna, Spiraea _bella_? Eurya _camellifolia_, Betula
_corylifolia_.

To the north, fine woods are seen, and to the east, fir woods, the
nearest being about 4 miles off. The village is small and wretchedly
dirty, the paths being the worst of all I have seen on these hills. The
houses and the adjoining fields are surrounded with hedges of
Colquhounia, Erythrina, Buddlaea.

In waste places Colquhounia _micrantha_, Cysticapnos, Verbesina, Pteris,
Davallia, etc. are to be found, as well as Codonopsis viridiflora. The
hills are covered with low grass, almost a sward. On this, Potentilla,
Agrimonia, Geranium as well as in fields, Pisoideum floribus cyaneis,
Campanula, Aster disco azureo may be found; on low spots a very small
Parnassia, and a still smaller Ischaemum.

Ranunculus, one species, but this is uncommon; Delphinium is common in
thickets, etc.

The only cultivation is potatoes, a few years since introduced, and which
answers admirably, some turnips and Glycine tuberosa. Cattle, goats and
pigs abundant.

On the whole this is to be considered as the place where the peculiar
vegetation of Churra, arrives at its boundary, for although many of the
plants of the plains are to be found, they are all in a dwarf state.

Noticed a Hoopoo, but birds in general are not frequent.


CHAPTER X.


_Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan_.

The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudes
of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding
observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left
hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height
of which is something better than 6,000 feet.

[Gradient Surureem to Moflong: g163.jpg]

_October 8th_. - Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the
eastward; the road runs over the same _downey_ ground. The first plant
that appears is a Boreal Euphorbia, allied to that previously mentioned.
A Sanguisorba of large stature occurs in low wet places. Epilobum not
uncommon. The Pines appear first straggling, and they only form a wood
in one place, and even there not of much extent; none are of any size.
Musci Lichens and fungi abound in the wood, as also Circaea and
Herminium?

Osbeckia Nepalensis, Hedychia 2, a small Goodyera, Tricyrtis Hedera,
Polygonum, Polypodium, Gaultheria, Viburnum, Thibaudiacea fructibus
gratis, subacidis. Eurya, Valeriana, Quercus, may likewise be found.
Salix occurs on the skirts in low places. The hills around are clothed
with grasses, among which is a large Airoidea; in the low valleys between
these, intersected with small water-courses, three species of Juncus, a
curious Umbellifera fistulosa, and Mentha verticillata, occur. Another
Hypericum is likewise found in lately cleared places.

Some cultivation occurs about the place on the slopes of hills, chiefly
of a Digitaria, sown broadcast, and tied up in bundles when nearly ripe;
together with Glycine tuberosa, and Coix Lacryme.

To the eastward the hills become more rocky, affording little vegetation,
the chief plant is an Othonnoidea; another Herminioidea, and a
Habenariod, both out of flower, may be found, the former on hills, the
latter in low places; a tall Campanula was among the new plants, and an
Umbellifera with curious foliage.

The height of this ridge is 5,768 feet, the temperature being 74 degrees,
and water boiling at 201.75 degrees.

Took the elevation of Moflong bungalow. Temperature of the air 65
degrees; water boiled at 202.25 degrees; this gives 5,410 feet.

There are several high rounded hills about this place, (one to the south
of the Boga Panee,) the generality of which are more elevated than those
on the northern side; the most conspicuous is the hill near Moleem, the
north face of which is wooded, and which is at least 1,000 feet above
Moflong.

8 P.M. Temperature 58.5 degrees. 5 P.M. 65 degrees.

_October 9th_. - Rain as usual in the morning. Thermometer at 7 A.M.,
58.5 degrees.

_October 10th_. - A fine bracing cold morning, with the thermometer at
53.5 degrees. 7 A.M. left for Myrung. The march to Syung is
uninteresting, passing over precisely the same country as that about
Moflong, with vegetation much the same. A tall Carduaceous tree with
pink flowers was found in the swampy bottoms of the valleys. About
Syung, a seneciois tree foliis angustissimus. It is about this place
that the sides of the ravines become clothed with forest, and from this
northward, Pines increase in abundance. Anthistiria speculis
villosissimis continues here and there; a good deal of cultivation passed
on the road, especially under Syung to the south, where there is a large
valley. The chief cultivation appears to be Coix, Glycine, and some
rice, but the produce seemed very small. At the foot of Syung on the
north side, large tufts of Juncus occur, and on the first ascent another
species of Valeriana foliis radicalibus reniformi cordatus occurs. Urena
lobale was noticed as high as 5,300 feet. Between Syung and Myrung,
especially about Nungbree, Parnassia recurs, with another species of
Epilobium, Xyris, Juncus, the Senecioneoe, etc.; a new Impatiens occurs
towards Myrung. Generally speaking, the plants are much the same as
those about Moflong; but several new Compositae occur.

The road leaves Nungbree to the right, leaving the most interesting parts
of the march behind. Altogether not more than 20 additional plants
occurred in a journey of 6 hours. Many parts are wet and marshy, and
there is an absence of all tree vegetation, until one reaches Syung. This
makes the first part of the way somewhat tedious. At Syung an Elaeagnus
occurs; Colquhounia as usual in hedges; Styrax occurs at foot of the hill
the altitude of which is 5,000 feet.

An anemone is common on road sides, especially on this side of Syung; a
new Potentilla occurs; and the only Boragineous plant hitherto seen by me
on these hills, a Cynoglossum closely allied to C. canescens. The
altitude of Syung is 5,594 feet. The temperature being 70 degrees, and
water boiling at 202 degrees. Myrung 6 P.M. Thermometer 65 degrees.

_October 11th_. - Myrung 7 A.M. temp. 63 degrees Fahr.; noon 67 degrees;
6 P.M. temp. 65 degrees; 9 temp. P.M. 62.5 degrees. Weather unsettled,
showery, and very cloudy, a very fine view is had of Bootan and the
Himalayas from this place, particularly about 7 A.M. when the atmosphere
is clear, the Durrung peaks being most magnificent. The vegetation of
the hills about here is much the same as about Moflong. The woods are
fine, composed chiefly of oaks; a Magnolia, which is a very large tree,
likewise occurs together with Gordonia, an occasional Pinus, Myrica
integrifolia. The most curious tree is one which with the true
appearance of an Elaeagnus, seems to be a Loranthus, the first
arborescent species yet found, although, as one or two other exceptions
occur to parasitism, there is no reason why there should not be a
terrestrial arborescent species, as well as a fruticose one. The wood to
the east of the bungalow, which clothes a deep and steep ravine, has a
very rich flora; a dryish ridge on the other side of its torrent abounds
with Orchideae, and presents an arborescent Gaultheria. The ridge in
question may be recognised by its large rocks which are covered with
Epiphytes Mosses, etc. In this wood Pothos flammea is very common,
climbing up the trees as well as hanging in festoons. The marshes which
are frequented by a few snipe, present grasses, the usual Cyperaceae,
Xyris, occurs but is not common; Panicum stagninum? Eriocaulon spe.
fluitans? Burmannia Rungioidea floribus carneis magnis, Senecionides,
Ammannia rotundifolia, Sphagnum, Carduacea floribus roseis, Limnophilae
sp. Mentha verticillata, and the others previously found in similar
situations. _Goldfussia_ so common about Churra, recurs here, but
rarely.

The wood abounds with several species of birds, among which a green
_Bulbul_ is the most common, then the fan-tailed Parus, with its
coquettish airs; judging from the voice there is a species of Bucco. Both
species of Phaenicornis, yellow and crimson, described in Gould's Century
as male and female, and the black Edolius are found. The only animals
are two species of squirrel, and a genet, of which I shot one, but
although it fell from a height of 70 feet or so, I could not succeed in
securing it; it is a lengthy animal, black and grey, with a long tail,
climbing trees with great facility. The ring-dove of Churra continues.

The weather during the four days I stayed at Myrung was unsettled; fine
usually in the morning, but cloudy and showery in the evening; the range
of the thermometer from 53 degrees, at 6.5 A.M. to 68 degrees in the
afternoon in an open verandah. The place, however, is not a cheerful
one, for the aspect on every side except to the E. and NE. is dreary,
marshes and the usual bleak grassy hills being alone visible. My
favourite spot in this direction would be the Nungbree hill, the altitude
of which, at least of that part over which the road to the village runs,
is 5,439, (or probably 5,700,) temperature of the air being **, and water
boiling at 202.5 degrees. There is a beautiful and very extensive wood
at Nungbree, the largest I have yet seen; it consists, at least at the
skirts, principally of oaks; a large Pyrus is also not uncommon. Eurya,
and an arborescent Buddleia likewise occur.

[THE OK-KLONG ROCK: p167.jpg]

At this place Plectranthus azureus makes its appearance, otherwise the
vegetation is that of Myrung; the most remarkable plant is a huge
Sarcocordalis, parasitic on the roots of a large climbing Cissus cortice
suberosa, foliis quinatis, on the wet parts of the wood, especially
towards the mountain foot, mosses abound, chiefly the pendent Hypna and
Neckerae.

On the 13th, I went to a celebrated rock called Kullung, bearing about
NW. from Myrung, from the heights surrounding which it is visible; the
road runs off from the Nunklow nearly opposite Monei, near to which
village one passes; the village is of no great size, and as well as
others in this direction is inhabited chiefly by blacksmiths, the iron
being procured from the sand washed down the mountain torrents; the sound
of their anvils when beaten is very soft and musical, not unlike that of
a sheep bell. The road to the rock is very circuitous; it finally
ceases, and for an hour one traverses ridges on which no path exists,
having the usual vegetation. The rock is certainly a vast mass, forming
a precipice of 700 feet to the westward, on which side it is nearly bare
of vegetation, gradually shelving to the east, and covered with
tree-jungle, among which huge mosses are to be found. At its foot some
fine fir trees occur, one at its very base measured nine feet in
circumference, but had no great height. The forest consists of Oaks,
Pines, Panax, Erythrina Eurya, Gordonia.

The base of the rock is covered with mosses, Hepaticae, a Didymocarpus,
Caelogyne and some other epiphylical orchideae, among others Bolbophyllum
cylindraceum.

All these continue to its apex, except the mosses and Hepaticae, which
are gained by clambering, and proceeding up fissures clothed with
grasses. The apex is rounded, presenting here and there patches of
grass, Aira, and Nardus, together with a few stunted shrubs - Viburnum,
another Rhododendron, and Didymocarpus common, Caelogyne in profusion,
Bolbophyllum cylindraceum in abundance, mosses, Lichens, an Allium also
in abundance on the slopes, Stellaria in the woods towards the middle.

The view to the westward in particular was pretty, embracing a fine well-
wooded undulated valley, with several villages and a stream of some size.
The plains of Assam and the huge Brahmapoutra were likewise seen, but not
very clearly. The distance from Myrung to the Kullung rock is certainly
not less than eight miles, the time it took was 4 hours. The altitude of
the rock is 5,392 feet, temperature 76 degrees, water boiling at 202.5.
Wild hog are found round its base. {168}

_October 14th_. - I left for Moleem, the march is long and fatiguing;
the road leaves the Moflong road at about four miles from the village of
that name, continuing over similar barren hills, clothed with scanty
grass. On reaching Morung firs become common, but they are small. The
view of Moleem, from this direction is remarkably pretty; the country
being better wooded, especially with young firs, and the effect being
much increased by the quantities of large boulders that occur strewn in
every direction. The Boga Panee is here a contemptible stream, not knee
deep. Moleem is a place of some size on the left bank of the river,
occupying the side of a hill of considerable height. Thermometer 7 P.M.
58 degrees.

_October 15th_. - Temp. 7 A.M. 53 degrees, at 3 P.M. 70.5 degrees, water
boiled at 204 degrees, altitude 4,473 feet, or perhaps rather more.
Walked towards Nogandree; between this and a stream resembling the Boga
Panee there is a pretty valley, the eminences generally well-wooded with
young firs. Pretty and eligible sheltered sites might here be chosen for
a Sanatarium. The vegetation is the same as that of Moflong - Delphinium,
Ranunculus, Anemone, Potentilla, Tricyrtis, Codonopsis, Lilium giganteum,
Spiraeaceae, Viola, Pyrus, Galium, Carduus, Viburna.

The woods are not very frequent, they consist, when not exclusively of
Pines, chiefly of Oaks and Chesnuts. Underwood almost entirely of
Acanthaceae. Rhus Bucki-Amelam is common here, an Oxalis occurs in very
shady places with fleshy leaves, it is so large that it is scarcely
referrible to O. corniculata. Berberis asiatica is very common. 6 P.M.
thermometer 58 degrees, 9 P.M. 50.5 degrees.

_October 16th_. - 7 A.M. 842.5 degrees (sic). Ascended the Chillong
hill, which is among the highest portion of this range, it is said that
from this both the plains of Bengal and of Assam may be seen, not because
it overtops all the intermediate ground, but because that happens in some
places to be rather low; the termination of the 1st elevation above
Churra, is seen to be very abrupt, but nothing can be seen beyond the
elevated plateau of this part towards the south. To the east and west
the view has the usual appearance - grassy valleys and hills - with a great
disproportion of jungle.

The summit is gained after an easy march of two hours; the ascent is
gradual. The highest ridge is naked of trees, but to the north the slope
is in one portion covered with heavy tree-jungle, in which the underwood
is as thick as I have ever seen it: it consists of an Acanthaceous plant;
the forest itself of oaks, chesnuts and Rhododendron arboreum, which last
is common on the highest margin. A few Pines occur, but scarcely above
the middle of the hill. To the north very high ground is visible, as
likewise from Myrung, and between this and Chillong is an elevated
plateau which appears to me likewise very eligible for the sites of
European residences.

But many places about Moleem are so, especially towards Nonkreem; and it
is much to be regretted that some situation in this part of the range had
not been selected for the site of a sanatarium instead of Churra. The
Rhododendra were covered with mosses and other epiphytes, among which
Otochilus occurred. Bambusae, 2 Fici sp. Andropogon, Gaylussacia, etc.
occur about the wood. The vegetation of the grassy hills was precisely
the same, Aroidea, Erianthus, Tofieldioidea, Parnassia nana _potius_
_collina_, Sphacelioidea, Osbeckia, Arbutoideae, etc. I got scarcely a
single new plant; the best was a fine large Neckera, sect. Dendroidea.
The temperature being 70 degrees: water boiled at 201 degrees, making the
altitude 6,167 feet. No view of any particular beauty was obtained, nor
did any thing occur to repay me for the trouble and fatigue of the
journey.

About Moleem an Osmundoid is common enough, but not in _flower_: the
northern forms are Ranunculus, Anemone, Parnassia, Pyrus, Pinus, Viola,
Galium, Campanula, Clematis, of which an additional species occurs,
Bromoideae, etc. etc., as at Moflong. I took the height of this place
again; the mean of the three thermometers gave 4,502 feet, the
temperature being at 60 degrees: water boiling at 95 degrees, 203.75
degrees, 204 degrees. It must, however, be remembered that my residence
is not 100 feet above the bed of the Boga Panee, so that it would be easy
to attain an elevation of 5,000 feet in the village itself.

_October 17th_. - I returned to Churra to send away my collections and
to consult with Major Lister as to the routes proposed for me by Capt.
Jenkins, viz. through the Garrows, or through the Cacharees. Nothing
particular occurred en route. I met with Hydrangea exaltata along a
torrent flowing into the main-feeder of the Boga Panee, and two other
Araliaceae. The highest ground crossed is towards the ravine of the Boga
Panee, and from this a good view of Moflong is obtained, and also of the
Himalayas in clear weather. Coelogyne Wallichiana was commencing to
flower; this plant occurs in profusion in some rocky spots about Moflong.
The only additional thing I remarked was, that Luculia scarcely reaches
the Kala Panee.

On my return to Churra, a change was observed in the character of the
vegetation, all the Tradescantias had ceased, as well as most of the
Impatientes, and Eriocaulons. The grasses had become more withered, and
the general tint was brown. No kites (Falco milvus) are to be observed
out of Churra.

The plants which were particularly conspicuous about Churra, were past
flowering in the interior; thus Osbeckia Nepalensis? was not to be met
with in flower in the interior, while it is in profusion about the
station. The same may be said of other instances.

After all Churra presents the richest flora of any other place in the
Khasyah hills, because there is a greater extent of wood near it, than is
found in any other locality, much greater _altitudes_ and deeper descents
in its ravines, and it is as it were the transit point between a tropical
or sub-tropical, and a temperate vegetation. I have no doubt, that
within a circle of three miles of Churra, 3,000 species might be found in
one year.

The principal plants pointing out the tropical nature of the vegetation
are Pandanus, which is almost limited to the limestone formation, on
which it is excessively abundant, Chamaerops Martiana? which from its
affecting particularly the walls of the amphitheatres so conspicuous
about Moosmai, Mamloo and Surureem, and the depths of whose sides is
probably at Mamloo 1,000 feet, might have been better named. I have
never seen it on any other places. The Alsophila Brunoniana is likewise
apparently confined to the limestone hills, while the tree fern,
Polypodium, is found on sandstone, as well as Impatiens, Tradescantia,
Commelineae, Eriocauloneae, Xyres, almost all the grasses, Melastomaceae,