almost all the Leguminosae and the preponderance of tropical Rubiaceae,
which are, however, few, Scitamineae, Epiphytical Orchideae, Urena
Labiata, etc. etc.

On the _23rd_ I went to Mamloo, which is about four miles to the west of
Churra. To this place the limestone ridge, extending from Churra, nearly
approaches: its vegetation is not rich but always stunted: rocky
amphitheatres are very remarkable at Mamloo, they are of excessive depth;
their walls being generally perpendicular, often somewhat overhanging.
The manner of their formation is now to be seen in the amphitheatre
immediately contiguous to the village, although it appears to be very
slow. It is thus, bodies of water falling from the edge of the table
land, seem to undermine the sandstone below, producing land slips, which
occur in this manner year after year. Since 1835, the edge of the
Moosmai fall has receded at least 10 feet, and ample evidence remains of
the recession to take place next rains. This simple undermining will
suffice for the formation of ravines, which are formed by their sides
merely slipping down without being carried away, this last only occurring
in the immediate vicinity of the strength of the torrent. All the
different stages may be easily seen. The edge of the table land I take
to have been originally at Mahadeb. The time that has elapsed between
the falling of the first cataract over its edge, and the formation of the
edge over which the waters at present fall, must be immense, since that
edge has now receded several miles. Allowing the annual recess to be 5
feet, and the distance 5 miles; the time occupied would be 5,700 years:
that the time has been great, is proved by the sides of these places
being clothed with large tree-jungle to the base of the scarp.

_October 25th_. - I went in search of the fossil marine beach, (found
during our first visit in 1835,) but passed it, and my journey ended at
the site of the Jasper beds: this occupies a ridge where roads strike off
leading to the Orange villages, so called from the groves of orange trees
by which they are surrounded, and from which they derive their name. From
this spot, 3 villages are seen occupying sheltered situations, none much
above 2,000 feet in elevation. Luckily I was accompanied, (although
going down I was unconscious of it,) by a boy who had been with
McClelland when he originally discovered the fossil remains, so I
recommenced the ascent, after digging in many places without any success.
The site is scarcely 1,000 feet below Mamloo, which is 3,153 feet; it is
below the ridge along which the road is visible from the village, and is
about 100 yards farther from it than the second square stone erection.
One would imagine that one was passing through rocks presenting nothing
interesting: the rocks are in many places very hard, particularly when
they have been long exposed to the atmosphere, in which case they are
less red than when sheltered by vegetation, when they are soft and of a
reddish colour: the fossils are by no means frequent, the cylindric
_tubes_ appear to occupy the outer or rather upper surface of the
sandstone, in the interior of which Medusae or Cyrtomae are most
frequent, accompanied by shells, some of large size, the largest bivalves
resembling _scolloped oysters_; the next in size looking like oblong
cockles: for only in one position did I see a conglomeration of minute
shells; this occurred above the others and nearer the jungle. I brought
away with me, two boxes full. Owing to my presuming that I should meet
with water near, I omitted the precaution of taking some with me, so I
could not ascertain exactly the height of the place. All the fossils are
easily friable. {172}

From the Jasper, which is scarce 1,800 feet in elevation, the following
plants occurred nearly in succession - Holmskioldia, this is scarcely
found above 2,000 feet; Porana in abundance, gradually diminishing above;
Callicarpa arborea abundant, continuing to about 2,200; Triumfetta, Urena
lobata, Arundo the same as above, Melica latifolia, Panicum plicatum, and
one or two other species; a Polygonum, Andropogon, small Commeline, Leea,
Erythrina are very close to the spot, and the only Churra plant, except
the Arundo and Wendlandia is a Labiata, Geniosporum? so is Composita
arborea; indeed the vegetation is almost decidedly tropical. The
following plants are then seen - Tetranthera, Flemingia as at Mahadeb,
Vitis, Drymaria, Panicum eleusinoides, Eurya, Panax foliis decompositis
inermis, Pogonatherum crenitum, Wallichia, which occur before one has
gained an ascent of 2,000 feet: Osbeckia nepalensis descends to this but
in small quantities; then I remarked Bidens, AEtheilema, Caricineae,
Rottlera, Didymocarpus, Begonia, Cheilanthes dealbata, Stemodia
ruderalis? Scutellaria, Impatiens bracteata, Rungiae sp. Sida,
Elephantopus sp. and Bambusa, Gordonii occurring there at an elevation of
about 2,100 feet. Then Centotheca lappacea, Deeringia, Panicum
_centrum_, Gouania, Caryophyllus, which last occurs on all the chain of
Himalayas, and which I have seen as high as 6,000 feet in the Mishmee
Mountains, latitude 28 degrees. Panax foliis palmatim partitis,
Clerodendrum nutans, Ficus feruginea and F. hispida, foliis cordatis,
serrato-dentatis: then Saurauja micrantha; before 2,300 feet were
reached. There Oxyspora sp. paniculis cernius ramis ascendentibus,
frutex, Croton of old, Ruellia persicaefolia appeared, and about 2,400
feet, the 1st Quercus appeared. Here, as at Mahadeb, Ruellia Neesiana
became common, and Linum trigynum, Uncinia, etc. Grasses commence to
preponderate at about 2,800 feet, but not the grasses of Churra. Holcus,
Airoides, etc. not being found, but Panica varia, and Rottboellia which
ceases above this.

At the raised Marine Fossil Beach, a queer Cephalanthus? Legumenosa
arbuscula fol. pinnatis impari (Pongamiae) Legumenibus secus suturam
quamque alatis, Mangifera indici, Anthistiria arundinacea are found, and
an arbusculous Mimosa, but unarmed. Shortly above this, Holcus,
Andropogons, etc., begin to preponderate, and thence the vegetation is
nearly that of Churra. The woods of Mamloo consist of Bucklandia, oaks,
chesnuts, Panax, Hyalostemma, Eurya, and Oleineoe; Epiphytes are very
common. The most remarkable tree is one foliis alternis bistipulat;
corymbis denis, Calycibus hinc fissis, petalis 5-albis, Antherae sinuosae
columna terminans, et ovarium et stigma occultantes? fructibus pendulis
stipilatis ovato oblongis, carpellis 5-latere marginatus.

This has some affinities apparently with Sterculiaceae; the flowers are
perhaps polygamous.

Here Cypripedium insigne, Venustum, and various other fine Orchideae may
be found.

The only bird I saw was a Bucco, which in voice resembled the green one
of the plains.

The elevation of Mamloo is 3,153, the temperature being at 7 A.M. 63
degrees. The large metal thermometer rose at the boiling point to 206.25
degrees: wooden one to 206.5 degrees: centigrade 96.7 degrees: small
metal 200 degrees.

One of the most curious places about Churra is situated over the ridge in
which the coal is found; on surmounting this, which is steep and perhaps
400 feet high, one soon commences to descend gradually until you come to
a water-course; on proceeding along this a short way you come to a
precipice. The water falling over this, has cut a deep well in the
limestone: the road to the bottom is precipitous and dangerous. On
reaching the water-course again no signs of the well are observable,
access to this is gained by subterranean passages, of which two, now dry,
exist. The scene inside is very striking; you stand on the rugged bottom
of the well which is 70 or 80 feet deep, the part above corresponding to
the fall, being of about the same depth; the water now escapes through a
chasm below the bed of the well, the other fissures or passages being
above, and probably now rarely letting off the water. After a severe
fall of rain the scene must be grand.

_November 4th_. - Nonkreem 6.5 A.M., thermometer 31 degrees: hoarfrost.
Marched hither from Surureem. Vegetation the same until you reach the
Boga Panee, when Delphinium, Anemone, and Ranunculus make their
appearance. On the high ridges before reaching Boga Panee, found an
Astragalus; at Nonkreem, a Scrophularia. Nonkreem is a curious place,
the village of no great size in a valley: the sides of the valley are
covered with boulders; those at the entrance from Churra of huge size,
and thrown together with great confusion. Pines at this place occur of
some size, but they are distinctly limited in this direction to the
granitic formation. The downs have now assumed a withered wintry
appearance. Nonkreem is a great place for iron; this is found in coarse
red sandstone, or it may be fine granite, forming precipices; this is
scraped or pushed down by iron rods, it is then washed by a stream turned
off on to it: the stream is dammed up, and the irony particles by their
weight fall to the bottom: they are very heavy, of a dull blackish
appearance. All the streams are of a whitish colour, and the rocks are
covered with Caelogyne Wallichiana.

The elevation of Nonkreem is 4,578 feet, the temperature of the air being
52 degrees. The large thermometer indicated boiling water 203 degrees:
centigrade 96.5 degrees: wooden 204 degrees: small 197 degrees. In the
Nonkreem jheel, Alisma, Villarsia! and Potamogeton occur.

_November 5th_. - The march to Suneassa continues over high downs, the
vegetation being precisely as before, viz. Cnicus, Carduus, Prunella
Pedicularis, Gaultheria, Gnaphalia, Bromoid acroideum, Tussilaginoid
Andropogon, Sphacelia Daucas, Hypericum, Hedychium, Polygonum rheoides,
Smithia but rare, Tradescantia clavigera, Parnassia collina, Pteris
aquilina, Euphorbia, Dipsacus, Salix, Osbeckia capitata, AEthionnia,
Eriocaulon, Knoxia cordata, and Campanula. In short, the higher ridges
have the vegetation of those between the Kala and Boga Panee, the less
elevated, that of Surureem. Along the watercourses Pyrus, Betula,
Corylifoliae, and Eurya.

As one approaches Suneassa the ravines become wooded, and the aspect of
country more diversified. The woods consist of a Castanea, 2 oaks,
Rhododendron arboreum and R. punctatum, Panax, Eurya, Thebaudiaceae
variae, no less than 4 or 5 of these, one is a Gaylussacia; Saccharum
megala makes its appearance at Suneassa.

This is a small straggling village, on the brow of the ravine of the same
name; it is like Moflong, each house being hidden by hedges composed as
usual of Buddleia, Colquhounii, Solanum spirale? Erythrina, Ficus, and
Rhus. Sugarcane, but of poor quality, is here cultivated, as well as
capsicum, but this is also of inferior quality; the houses are worse than
usual. Near this place several Nunklow plants appear, as Plectranthus
caeruleus, Labiata foliis verticillatis of Suddya. Its elevation is
4,362 feet, the temperature being in the air, 59 degrees. Big
thermometer boiling point ditto 204 degrees: wooden ditto 204 degrees:
small 198 degrees: centigrade ditto 96 degrees. Pines occur here and
there towards Suneassa, but of no size and no abundance.

_November 6th_. - Left Suneassa and proceeded down the ravine which is
probably 1,200 to 1,500 feet deep. The scenery is very pretty, the sides
being much wooded; the woods open, consisting chiefly of pines, which are
of moderate size, Gordonia, Castanea, and Quercus: Mimosea occurs, also
Saurauja. The grasses are as before, except that the Anthisteria of
Nunklow appears, with Volkameria, Verbena Primulacae, and Osbeckia
capitate, foliis lineari oblongis, floribus carneis. Towards the foot,
the scenery still improves.

The woods consist of pines and a Quercus foliis castaneae cupulis
echinatis, Arbor mediocris; the slopes as well as the valley are
cultivated chiefly for rice, this last often assuming the terrace
fashion. The river is of considerable width, 50 to 60 yards, but of no
depth: two here flow together, and at the end of the valley a still
larger stream not fordable in the rains, at least where I crossed, meets
it. On the streams at the base of the Suneassa acclivity, Salix,
Ligustrum, Ficus frutex humelis, and a fine Indigofera occur. Moving
thence along the valley the vegetation becomes tropical, although pines
descend nearly to its level. Pontederia the small one of Bengal, ditto
Sagittaria Vandelliae, Poae 3, Apluda, Cyperaceae, Saccharum megala, and
spontaneum, Elytrophorus, Ammannia, Erianthus, Cnicus! Artemisia as
before, Arundo exalum, Cirsium, Carduus! Scitamineae 2, Panicum curvatum,
Setaria glauca, Swertia angustifolia! Volkameriae sp., Ranunculus
hirsutoideus! Zizania ciliaris.

Those marked with (!) have probably straggled down. The cultivation is
chiefly of rice, Eleusine, Coix, and the edible seeded Labiata. Grasses
abound; in addition to those above several new ones occur, Rottboellia
exallata, Anthisteria of Nunklow, Arundinaceae, Andropogones several,
Saccharum fusco-rubum, 25 species might certainly be collected.

Fine pines occur on the other ascent from its base to apex. Here also
occurs Phoenix pumile, which as well as the Rottboellia, which I think I
have seen in the Mogoung valley (during the journey to Ava), and Buddleia
neemda.

The ascent gained, the country appears level, covered with the usual
grasses. The ravines are well wooded, but few pines occur, although they
may be seen here and there. The woods appear the same as those of
Churra. Pandanus sp. altera? occurs. In one ravine gathered a new
Thebaudiaceae allied to T. variegata, differing in its short greenish
flowers and its smoothness.

[Gradient Nonkreem to Amwee: g176.jpg]

Amwee is situated on an undulated plain or table land; the undulations
are gentle, separated by marshy tracts: no steep ravines occur, the face
of the undulations is covered with grasses, among which are seen most of
the Churra plants, the sides are covered with fine woods with defined
edges, consisting chiefly of oaks, chesnuts and Bucklandia. The aspect
of the country is pretty, resembling some woodland scenery in the south
of England; close to Amwee is a fine stream 40 yards wide, this winds
through the valley, and on its upper part fine cascades occur. No fish
are to be found besides those of Churra. The river is crossed by a stone
bridge consisting of pillars of single slabs of large size, one measuring
20 feet in length by from 4 to 5 in breadth. The temperature varies from
50 to 68 during the day in an open verandah. Fogs are not so common, nor
is the rain so heavy as at Churra. The space being much greater, and the
country more level, it would be better as a sanatarium than Churra,
besides which, its access is as easy, it being reached in one day from
Jynteapore. There is, however, a Toorai about Jynteapore, which is
unhealthy. Its altitude is 3,500 feet, or nearly 500 below Churra.

The vegetation is nearly the same as about Churra, some new Castaneae and
an Elaeocarpus occur, and Pandanus of large size in the woods.
Epiphytical Orchideae abound; Nepenthes occurs here. Altitude from three
observations 3,530 feet: 1st observation 3,439: 2nd 3,597: 3rd 3,624.

_November 10th_. - Joowye: this is north from Amwee, and about 8 miles
distant. Two valleys have to be descended, one rather steep. The
country alters immediately after the 1st ascent, the woods nearly
disappearing except in the more favoured spots. Pines soon commence. In
the second valley, the stream of which is large, and of which pretty
views are to be obtained, the pines reach on the south side to the bank
of the stream, on the north scarcely any are to be seen. In the woods
about Amwee, Eugenia is very common: noticed on the route Lonicera.

Joowye is the largest village I have seen, it is of great extent but
straggling; near its entrance is a breast-work now nearly complete. The
houses are of a better description than those generally met with. They
are surrounded by wood, especially fine bamboos, in habit not unlike B.
baccifera. They are also surrounded by excellent timber palings. The
people are different from Khasyas Proper - perhaps they are not so fine a
race. Their features approach more to those of Bengallees, particularly
the women, who dress their hair like those of Assam, indeed the dress
generally of both sexes assimilates to that of Assamese, although their
language seems to be Bengallee. In the wood surrounding this place
curious features of vegetation occur, and beautiful lanes and pathways.
One may see a beech now naked of leaves, standing out in graceful relief
close to the elegant foliage of a bamboo. Bamboos surround all the
houses - sugarcane, kuchoos, mustard, hemp, Musa, Ricinus were observed.

The plants are beech, which is common and of large size. Pyrus of
Moleem, Pinus rare, Marlea begonifolia! Betula corylifolia common.
Verbena chamaedrys, Rubi 3 or 4, Tetrantherae? Rubia cordifolia, Morus,
Cerasus, Panax 3 species, Gleicheniae 2, Eurya, Juncus, Ranunculus,
Viola, Verbesina of Moflong, Sida, Clematis _pubescens_, Caricineae,
Myrica, Gordonia, Polygonum 3, among them Rheoides Engeldhaardtii common,
Viburna 2, Wendlandia, Osbeckia capitata and nepalensis. The grasses
chiefly Andropogons; Mussaenda, Bucklandia, Saurauja, Hiraea, Dipsacus
rare, Camellia oleifolia, and C. axillaris, Begonia laciniata, Ficus,
Vitis, Sonerila, Plectranthus azureus, Randia, Mephitidia, Psychotria,
Galium, Clerodendrum infortunatum, Pyrus or crab, Fragaria, Potentilla,
Urena lobata. The diversified nature of the vegetation, both tropical
and temperate, is at once evident.

The altitude is 3,553 feet - temperature of the air 62 degrees; large
thermometer boiling point 205.5 degrees: wooden ditto 206.75: centigrade
ditto 96 degrees: small ditto 199.5 degrees.

The higher ground about the place is about 4,000 feet: Joowye being
situated in a hollow. Viola and Peristrophe occur.

_November 11th_. - The march to Nurtung occupies about 6 hours. The
country is level, or merely undulated, with no considerable descent, the
steepest being that to the river on which Nurtung is situated. The
vegetation continues the same, the trees except in the ravines almost
exclusively pines, those on the ravines consisting of oaks, Rhododendra,
Betula corylifolia, Betula moroides, Solidago, Verbena, Primulaceae,
Othonna, occur; Anthistiriae, _both_ those of Nunklow are common,
Rottboellia Manisuris in low valleys: here and there Phoenix pumila is
common. The country just before Nurtung is uninteresting, scarcely any
thing but grass being visible in some directions. Indeed it falls off on
leaving Joowye.

Rhinanthus, Corolla infundibulif. subbilabiat. lobis 2, superioribus
minoribus, stam. ascendent. stigmati inclusi decurvo.

_November 12th_. - Nurtung is a large place for these hills, perhaps
next in extent to Joowye, it occupies principally both sides of a
sufficiently sheltered hill. The lanes adjacent to the place are narrow,
often very wet, and always very dirty. The gardens are enclosed with
wooden palings and are screened still further by bamboos. The houses, at
least the better order, are still better than even those of Joowye. The
exterior is of the same construction as all Khasya houses, but the lawns
and the comparative cleanliness of the front makes them look much better.
The market, which took place to-day, is outside the village and close to
our bungalow: it is well attended, but the amount of persons could not
exceed 100 to 200, and these form a considerable amount of all the
persons capable of bearing burdens from the neighbouring villages. The
luxuries exhibited are all Khasyan, consisting of stinking fish, some
other things of dubious appearance and still more dubious odour, millet
and the inferior grains, and the fashionable articles of Khasya clothing
and the adjuncts to that abominable habit pawn eating. There was plenty
of noise, but still order prevailed: no other rupees than the _rajah's_
were taken, and even pice were refused. Iron implements of husbandry of
native manufacture were vended, in short all the various luxuries or
necessaries of a Khasya are obtainable.

This place bears evidence of having been ruled over by some chief
pretending to Hindooism. This is observable in the large fig trees in
some of the buildings, in most of the houses in the presence of some
brahmins, in the tanks, and in a sacred lake. At any rate it is attended
with bad effects, and to see a Khasya attempting the formalities of a
rigid Hindoo is ridiculously absurd.

It must be a wealthy place, many of the natives are well off; and I saw a
_lady_ of a decidedly superior nature to the Khasya women, clad in snow
white, reclining in oriental fashion on a platform. The _vegetation_ of
this place forms a curious melange around our huts: Rhus bucki ameli, two
Artimiseae, Anthistiria arundinacia, Pteris aquilina, Callicarpa
_lilacina_, Eurya, Bombax, Osbeckia nepalensis and linearis, Marlea
begonifolia, Pyrus, Pinus, Urticia fructibus aurantiaceus capitulatis,
Polygonum rheoides, Rubi 3, Swertia angustifolia, Polygonum globuliferum,
Valerianae, Cacalia, Randia, Gnaphalia nervosa, and G. revoluta, Smilax,
Plectranthus azureus, Trichosanthes, Leea, Tradescantia clavigera,
Geniosporum, _Butea_, Hypericum, Knoxia cordata, Rice cultivation.

Along the path to the village are to be found, Carduus, Myrica
crotalaria, _Hacyoides_, Cariceneae, Panicum curvatum, Arundo, Mentha
verticillata, Cyperaecae usual, Zizania ciliaris, Panax, Wendlandia
_Salvinia_, Isachne bigeniculata, Betula corylifolia common, Pontedera,
Tetranthera, Erythrina, Celtis, Salix, Buddleia, Gordonia, Calamus
abundant, Juncus, Arum macrophyllum, Cordiaceae, Urena lobata,
Cynoglossum canescens, Bambusa, Verbesinea, _Lavinia_, Magnolia of
Myrung, Camellia oleifolia, Gualtheria.

About the village, Porana, Musa, Verbena, Xanthophyllum, Xyris, Urtica
herophylla, Sambucus, etc.

The cultivation consists of rice, millet, Soflong? pumpkins and tobacco;
guavas and oranges, are also to be seen.

Daphne cannabina occurs here, as well as Loxotis obliqua, the Cardaminum,
Plantago, and Martynia.

From a fresh observation and taking the mean, I find the elevation of
Nurtung to be 3,302 feet.

On enquiry I find that Rulung is one march off, that the country is
similar, and that pines grow there to a large size. From this place to
Koppilee river it is said to be nine marches. A fuqueer from Cutch said
several, six to ten - and as the distance is nearly fifty miles and the
ground difficult, he was probably right.

You then come to the Meekir country. To get into Tooly Ram's country
would require at least nine days, but with loaded people probably twelve
or fifteen. The station between Rulung and the Koppilee is Hush Koorah.
Thermometer varies here from 45 to 85 in the sun, in shade from 52 to 74.

_November 13th_. - Left for the Borpanee.

The country traversed is easy, consisting chiefly of undulations covered
with grassy vegetation. There are no steep ascents nor descents; and the
only obstacle is the Borpanee. The march is of about six hours'
duration.

Butea suffruticosa is very common about Nurtung, but ceases soon after
leaving its environs. All the valleys near this place are cultivated:
the ground being now inundated in proportion. Dipsacus valeriana
continued, and a short distance from Nurtung pines become very common.
Thence the country became more undulated and scarcely a tree was met
with: Hedysarum gyrans commenced shortly after leaving Nurtung: a sure
sign of decreasing elevation. The country subsequently improved, being
more diversified with wood: firs became abundant, Callicarpa arborea
commenced. About Nonkreen, a small village to the east, close to our
path the trees became mostly different. Kydia appeared, a tree like the
mango, and some others unknown to me. Bauhinia, Randia, Phyllanthus
Embelica, and a stunted arboreous Symplocos, Anthistiria arundinacea
common, with chesnuts (Castaneae).

Close to this, Gordonia, pines of some size, Anthistiria arundinacea and
Cassioides. The grasses continued the same, but two new Andropogons and
a small Rottboellia appear; Holcus, Airoides, etc. of Churra have ceased:
the other are Sacchara and various Andropogons. On approaching a
considerable descent the woods became open, consisting at first entirely
of pines, Betula of Joowye, etc. then of pines, Quercus castaneoides
which attains a large size. It was here that the pines became large, one
felled measured sixty-nine feet to the first branch, most are straight,