finding out his mistake, he put an end to the sport.

Atriplex is cultivated here, Mooreesa of Assam, Hempstee of the Booteas,
though seeds are used as well as the leaves.

The loads of salt brought down by the Tibetans on asses are packed up
neatly in coarse cloths, and weigh upwards of forty seers each.

[Gradient Bulphai to Roongdong: g224.jpg]

_February 1st_. - Our march commenced by descending gradually at first,
then very rapidly to the Dimree nuddee: crossing this at the junction of
two streams, we ascended a little and then kept along the side of the
ridge forming the right bank of the nuddee, until we came over the
Monass: thence proceeding about one and a half mile, we reached Tassgong
or Benka which is situated on this river, and about 1,000 feet above it.
This we crossed by a suspension bridge.

But little interesting botany occurred to-day: Chenopodium sp. occurs in
fields at Roongdong. The terrace cultivation here had just yielded a
crop of rice, and was now planted with wheat. Agriculture would appear
to be at a low ebb, and if the country is populous, the people must be
half-starved.

Water was abundant throughout the route: the Monass is a large stream,
but not generally very deep, although from its rapidity it must discharge
even at this season a great body of water. Composita penduliflora
descends to the Dimree, the altitude of which is about 3,000 feet, so in
fact did most of the plants found about Roongdong. Pyrus continues half-
way, Rhododendron to the bottom. Hovenia at an altitude of 5,000 feet,
Randia - as also Tetranthera oleosa, and a new Flemingia.

At 4,900 feet, _Jubrung_ occurs. - Clematis Cana, Luculiae sp., Conyzoidea
nivea, Kydia calycina, Mimosa arborea, began at 4,800 feet: Gaultheria,
arborea, Gordonia, descend to the bottom: Crawfurdia speciosa, Oxyspora,
Aspidium, Macrostomium, and Polypodioides, Saurauja hispida, Hypericum,
Spiraea bella, Gillenioinis, Quercus, Rubus, and Viburnum caerulescens. A
tree yielding lac, which had lately been cut, and Meliaceae, Rhus
triphyllum. Hence some snow was visible on a lofty ridge above our
heads, at least 9,500 feet, the snow descending a considerable way down
ravines. Of birds, Bulbuls and Bucco, were here observed.

At - - feet, Leguminosa arborea, Loranthus Scurrula, Kydia Wendlandia,
Celtis, Osbeckia nepalensis, a Vitex, Grislea, Pteris aquilina,
Indigofera! Acanthacea caerulea.

At - - feet, Triumfetta mollis, Composita arborea, Pterospermum,
fructibus 10-valvibus, valvis lobatibus, Sem. alatis. Santalacea
australasica, here a large shrub.

At the nullah, Fici sp., Saccharum Megala, Verbenacia? foliis apice craso
lobatis. On the opposite side, Pinus longifolia, to within 200 feet of
the nullah, Phlebochiton extensus! Solanum farinaceum! Achyranthes densa!
a Plumbaginacea which is a Paederioid Rubiacea, and another Ficus,
Hastingsia, Bassia, Labiata Sudyensis, Grislea, very common, Emblica,
Ficus obliquus were found along the road, after crossing the nullah. The
ridge of the mountain was rocky, barren, covered chiefly with grasses,
the Butea of Nurtung, Artemisia minor, Umbelliferae, Desmodium vestilum,
Kalanchoe, also occurred. At the few houses below our path, we saw
plantains! and bamboos as well as mangoes! The terraces here are fronted
with stones: Lemna occurred in water; Linaria on rocks; Conaria and a
fleshy Euphorbia, this last, about villages.

The occurrence of plantains and mangoes here is curious, and a sure sign
of mild climate, as Kalanchoe is of dryness; nothing could well exceed
the barrenness of the road, from crossing Dumria to Benka.

Benka is a straggling place, built on a ridge overhanging the Monass, and
on exceedingly rugged ground, the north face of the ridge being nearly
equally steep; the southern face, contains about fifty houses, all of
which are small and a few in ruins. The only large house is the Rajah's,
which is said to be of Chinese construction.

This day the Rajah paid us a visit; a tent was pitched for his reception
on the open ground before our house, consisting of a small silken pall,
with two high silken parti-coloured kunnauts. He arrived about eleven,
preceded and succeeded by followers amounting to less than a hundred. On
reaching the ground, he was carried or shuffled off his horse and
deposited in the tent amid most terrific screechings. He took an immense
time to arrange for our admission. We found him seated on a shabby
throne, with a head priest, a coarse looking man, on his right, on a less
elevated seat. Brass cups, etc. were arranged before him. Our chairs
occupied the left; a present of fruits, onions, etc., the floor. The
meeting was friendly, and he promised us coolies in two days. He is a
youngish man with a square face, and was well dressed.

After we had taken leave, he feasted his attendants and the spectators
with salt-fish and rice. He departed about 2 P.M. The procession was as
follows, both going and returning -

A large, black, shaggy dog led by a chain.

A drum and drummer; a gong with a melodious sound; a clarionet played by
an old and accomplished musician, rivalling in its strains that beautiful
instrument the bagpipe; a man bearing a wooden painted slab on a pole, on
this was an inscription; a banner looking like a composition of rags; a
white flaglet; fifteen matchlockmen; fifteen bowmen; the Dompa of
Roongdong; five horses and one mule led.

The household; Natchees; guitar; sundries. Personal attendants, looking
like yeomen of the guard in red cloth dresses, variegated with yellow;
the Rajah wearing a Chinese copper hat.

Lastly, the priests, of whom there were about six.

These were the best clothed and best mounted, and evinced satisfactory
tokens of being corporeally well off. Their dress consisted of a sombre
jacket with no sleeves, with either a yellow or red silk back, over this
is a sombre scarf. They are great beggars, and the headman was well
pleased with a present of four rupees. In return, he gave P. two, B. and
myself each one paper of salt, similar to those given to the lookers-on.

The ponies were all poor, excepting two or three of the Rajah's own,
which were handsomely equipped; these had their tails raised on end,
exactly like hobby-horses. In addition to this, each was supplied with
supernumerary yak tails, one on either side.

The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, at
least were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with an
enormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of a
pitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on the
head when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back while
resting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for some
way up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noise
were predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be,
had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. The
dancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the hands
and forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous.

A peculiar kind of spirit called _Chonghoons_ is in great requisition:
this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with a
small matter of malt in it.

Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymaria
ovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacks
and pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hot
weather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermost
pair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably present
the normal form of foliation. _Adoee_ fish {227} found in the Monass.

Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seen
here. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of some
importance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. The
Rajah's house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle with
an elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumults
still prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: that
a new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did not
wish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come so
far, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place.

_February 5th_. - Left: descended immediately from the town to the
bridge over the Monass. The descent is steep but winding, the face of
the hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we passed a small
field of Cajanus, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is a
suspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in square
links; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sides
being of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased by
the bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, and
about thirty above the Monass.

The Monass is 1,300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banks
being about eighty yards apart, but this space is not generally filled
with water. Its violence is extreme.

We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its bed
until we ascended nearly 1,000 feet. We continued at this elevation
until we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The whole
march was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Monass was in
sight nearly the whole distance. Passed two villages, both small, one on
the right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetation
occurred except that we came upon pines, P. longifolia about a mile and a
half from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think this
is different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra,
Desmodium, Buddleia sp., were the only plants of a novel nature that
occurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous grasses,
very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on high
hills to the east.

[Gradient Benka to Nulka: g229.jpg]


CHAPTER XII.


_Continuation of the journey in Bootan_.

The following table affords the result of observations made with the view
to determine the relation between temperature and altitude, in these
parts.

Difference of Difference of Value in height of
Temperature Elevation 1 degrees of Temperature

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr. 1,222 feet 94 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 406 = 01-5/10

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,110 = 85-5

Khumna and Nulka, 16 = 1,516 = 89-3

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 816 = 90-6

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,332 = 89-9
- - - - -
6)550-8
- - - - -
Mean value of 1 degrees of Fahr. as indicated on the barometer 91-8

Second series of observation

Benka and Monass, 13 degrees Fahr.1,193-4 feet 91-8 feet

Benka and Nulka, 4 = 367-2 = 91-8

Benka and Khumna, 13 = 1,178-1 = 90-6

Khumna and Nulka, 17 = 1,557-0 = 91-10

Monass and Nulka, 9 = 826-2 = 91-8

Monass and Khumna, 26 = 2,386-8 = 91-8
- - - - -
6)549-8
- - - - -
91-6

The Monass is called Goongree by the Booteas; its bed is very much
inclined, and tranquil pools are of rare occurrence: it is not fordable
in any place, although many of the rapids are not very deep. The
singular bridge is said to be of Chinese construction, and that it serves
the purpose of a chief thoroughfare, is a proof of the extremely small
population of the country.

Onions grow at Nulka, plantains, sugarcane, tobacco.

Bheirs are common. Weeping cypress occurs, but stunted.

The entrance to this village on the north-side, is through a square
building, the ceiling of which is painted, and the walls decorated with
figures of deities, white and red.

[Koollong Bridge: p230.jpg]

_February 6th_. - We descended immediately to the Monass, keeping along
its banks throughout the greater part of the march; rising however, over
one or two spurs that dip into it.

This river varies a good deal in width, its bed, however, is generally
confined, and the stream fierce; occasionally, however it spreads out and
becomes here and there more placid. We continued along its banks,
crossing one or two small streams until 12 o'clock, when we reached a
large torrent, the Koollong, up which we proceeded three or four hundred
yards, but at some height above its bed. We crossed this by a wooden
bridge of similar construction with that over the Deo Panee, and the idea
of which is ingenious. It is nearly fifty yards wide, and about twenty
above the torrent. It is in a bad state, and unprovided with railings
throughout the central level part. The houses into which the inclined
supporting beams are fixed are strong, and built on rock. The fastenings
are altogether of cane, and the whole presenting the appearance given in
the annexed drawing.

Hence we ascended a black, rocky, burnt-up mountain until we reached
Khumna, the ascent amounted to nearly 2,000 feet, and occupied more than
an hour.

But little of interest occurred, in fact I never saw a more barren
country. We passed a small village of two or three houses, and two good
patches of rice cultivation, one just below Nulka, one at Ghoomkhume, the
small village just alluded to.

Pinus longifolia descends nearly to the bed of the Monass, which below
Nulka is about 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. Along this I
noticed Hiraea, Eugenia, Vitis, Jasminum, Paederia foetida, Ficus,
Loranthus, Scurrula, Desmodium, Aerides, Vanda, Flacourtia, Kalanchoe,
Leguminosa, _Vanillidora of Solani mookh_, Ceanothus, Bergera,
Dischidia bengalensis, Leguminous trees, Euphorbia, Bassia, Cheilanthes
of Brahmakoond common, Coccoloba cyanea. In rice khets at Ghoomkurrah, I
found Lemna, Cardamine, Rumex of Khejumpa, Cirsium decurrens, Gnaphalia,
Datura, Simool in flowers; Spathoidea, Oxalis coriculata, Cannabis,
Verbesina.

I observed water-ouzels, bucco, water-wagtails, bulbuls, ordinary and
yellow-rumped.

[Gradient Nulka to Khumna: g232.jpg]

Passed cotton cultivation in two places, one close to the Monass, and one
to the Koollong, both equally bad, and observed Begonia edule, which they
call Sheemptsee, and which they eat.

The road to-day was generally good, overhanging in one place the Monass
at a height of forty yards above, and below scarped precipices. The road
here was constructed or supported artificially. Distance six miles.

_February 7th_. - To Phoollong. Left at 9.5 A.M., and immediately
commenced ascending. The ascent was at first steep, then gradually wound
round the Khumna mountain, which was most barren throughout. The ascent
continued but very gradually until we came near Phoollong, to which we
descended, and then ascended about 1,000 feet. About half-way, and when
we had ascended perhaps 1,000 feet, we came on new vegetation, oaks,
Rhododendra, etc. as before, and this continued improving in denseness
until we reached the village. The distance is five miles, ascent about
1,500 feet, but so gradual, that one would not imagine it more than 800
feet. At Khumna, I noticed Pinus longifolia, Pyrus malus, Achyranthes
dense, Cirrus, Urtica urens, tobacco, Musa, Datura, Artemisia major. Hogs
are fed here in large circular platters made of stone scooped out.

Commencing the ascent, I observed Ficus cordata of Bhamru, Rhus pendula,
Indigofera _elatior_, Conaria, Pteris aquilina, Cerasus commenced at
5,000 feet. Then Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia minor, Conyza laculia,
Rubus deltifolius, Labiata Sudyensis, Acanth. caerulescens.

Quercus robur commenced at about 5,200 feet, but stunted Flemingia
secunda, then Gaultheria arborea, Gnaphalium nivea.

Here there was a high ridge to the right, crowned with a wood of Q.
robur, all the leaves of which had fallen. Myrica, Rhododendron,
Jubrung, Didymocarpus contortus on rocks, Cnicus, Clematis cana,
Polygonum rheoides. At a village here, which contained ten houses,
observed Cupressus pendula, Citrus, wheat, Bambusa, then Juncus. Primula
of the Khasya hills. Q. robur abundant, Composita penduliflora, Saurauja
hispida, Equisetum, Rubus caesius, Alnus of Thumathaya, Elaeagnus
spinosus, E. macrophyllus 5,300 feet: Plantago, Coriaria, Erythrina, Rhus
acidum, Cerastium coenum, Dipsacus, Viburnum microphyllum, Rubia
cordifolia, Barleria, Tetranthera oleosa, Hedera, Gentiana, Myrsine,
Blasia, Fleshy urticea, Q. robur, Gordonia, Adamia, Neckera
jungermannoides and laeta, Primula in abundance, Acorus, Calamus, Scirpus
kysoor of Churra, Gram. latifolia, Andropogonoides of Suniassa.

Coming on a well-wooded ravine close to Phoollong, the first I have seen
since leaving Balphai, found Quercus 2, Castanea, Gordonia, Spiraea
decomposita, and S. Bella, Hydrangea, Rhododendron, Thalictrum, Quercus,
Curculigo, Viburnum caerulescens, Indigofera elatior, Gnaphalium niveum,
Sempervivum on rocks, Panicum eleusinoides, Thibaudia myrtifolia, Swertia
major, Alnus as before, Rubus moluccanus, Salix lanata, Primula Simsii,
Phlomoides, Orthodon.

Throughout the march we observed many detached houses on the mountains
forming the right bank of the Koollong, and much cultivation, all of the
terrace sort. Passed one village beneath us about 700 feet, containing
twelve houses, and the one mentioned above; as usual, ruined houses
occur.

Cattle furnished with litters of leaves; a curious low was heard, like
that of an elephant.

Booteas work their own cotton, much of which is cultivated along the
rivers at low elevations.

Higher land, certainly 11 to 12,000 feet high, was visible to the north
side: on this a good deal of snow was visible.

[Gradient Khumna to Phoollong: g235.jpg}

_February 8th_. - Towards the morning it commenced to rain; snow has
fallen on both sides the Koollong: it has fallen on the road we came by
yesterday, and on the hills above to within 200 feet of us, or in some
places to the level of this. Exemption in favour of this place is to be
attributed to local causes. The trees in the neighbourhood are
completely covered with it, and it is said to have fallen here twice
during the night,

The Bootea houses are ill calculated for rain, they leak all around as
indeed might be expected, from the nature of the roofs, which consist of
boards, kept _in situ_ by stones. It would be curious to ascertain the
temperature under which snow does not fall, and if possible the
temperature here and among the snow. In the morning, sleet with a few
flakes of snow fell also, but only occasionally.

Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and steadily too: it commenced
slightly: as the cold increased it ceased to melt on reaching the ground,
and at length all around was a sheet of white. The variations of the
thermometer were considerable and frequent, the wind blowing pretty
steadily from the south-east.

At 10 A.M. 37 degrees Snow commencing.
At 10.5 A.M. 36 degrees South-east wind.
At 10.75 A.M.40 degrees Wind from the north, snow rather heavy.
At 11.75 A.M.37 degrees South-east.
At 12 Noon 35 degrees ditto.
At 12.5 P.M. 36 degrees ditto.
At 2.5 P.M. 37 degrees ditto.
At 4 P.M. 39 degrees ditto.
At 6 P.M. 37 degrees ditto.
At 9 P.M. 38 degrees ditto.

Fine moonlight night. View to the north beautiful; every thing silvered
with snow; the deep and black ravine of the Koollong is particularly
conspicuous, and on some cultivated spots the pendulous cypress with its
sombre head and branches covered with snow, was also remarkable,
altogether a beautiful scene. Larch-like firs were visible 500 feet over
the road leading to this from Khumna.

_February 9th_. - Fine sunny morning: thermometer at 7 A.M. 35 degrees:
at 8 A.M. 42 degrees. Hills around covered with snow. High ridge to
south plainly visible, a good deal of snow visible. Went out at noon
over to the south-east, in which direction a pine wood was visible; this
I ascertained to consist of Pinus or Abies pendula, which has much the
habit of a Larch. The altitude of this above Phoollong is certainly
1,000 feet; snow covered the ground in all sheltered spots. The woods
here are formed chiefly of Q. robur, Q. ilecifolia also occurs here and
there, Gordonia, Cerasus, Rhododendron minus.

Mosses and Jungermanniae abound, and were in high perfection owing to
being saturated with moisture. Polytrichum, Neckera, Brachymenium,
Dicranum, Weissiae, Fissidens, Hypnum, Didymodon, Diastoma, Orthodon,
were found in perfection. The only new plants were a Campanula and a
Chimaphila, which last was found at 7,000 feet. Berberis asiatica
scarcely occurs below 6,000 feet, Hedera. The birds seen were the jay,
barbet, red-and-black-headed, variegated short-wing, large ditto of
Khegumpa, orange-breasted Trochilus, brown Fringilla, green woodpecker,
black pheasant, and small squirrel of Assam was also found.

From the fir wood, Tassyassee was distinctly visible, bearing nearly due
south, distance 10 or 12 miles. Koollong was also seen: all the high
ground between that and Bulphai was covered with snow. The high range to
the south is, I think, the same as that which runs up behind from the
pagoda above Bulphai.

A few plants of the Assam Indigo, Ruellia indigofera, are kept here, and
preserved with care, but stunted and obviously unsuited to the climate.
Montario, our taxidermist, says that it is the fourth plant he knows from
which indigo is procured. First, Indigofera - Second, the custard apple,
_shereefa_ - Third, a climbing plant used in Java, etc. probably Marsdenia
tinctoria - Fourth, - ?

_February 10th_. - Fine weather: thermometer at 7 A.M. 40 degrees.
Started at 9 A.M., and reached Tassyassee at 3 P.M.; the distance being
nine miles. We continued throughout nearly at the same elevation,
rounding the hill on which Koollong is placed. About three miles from
this we descended about 500 feet to a nullah, which we crossed over by
means of planks, thence we ascended about the same height, and continued
at nearly our former level until we descended to the Koollong, which we
crossed by the usual form of wooden bridge. Thence we ascended 400 feet
to the village, which is chiefly constituted by the Rajah's house, a very
large edifice. The Koollong is still a considerable stream, but appears
to be fordable, at least in the present season.

The vegetation continued the same almost throughout. In ascending from
the nullah above mentioned, we came on plenty of Pinus longifolia, and on
getting still nearer Tassyassee the Abies pendula became more and more
common, until it forms on the opposite bank of the Koollong opposite
this, a large wood; Pinus longifolia disappearing. The hills continue
openly wooded, the woods consisting of oaks, chiefly Q. robur and
Rhododendrons. In the ravines which are thickly wooded, oaks, chesnuts,
Cerasus, Rhododendron arborea, mosses; Panax two or three species, among
which is a new one, _P_. _aesculifolia_, arbor parva armati, foliis 7
digitatis, paniculis nutantibus. Hydrangea, Viburnum caerulescens, and
Microphyllum, Galium, Ferns abundant, Bucklandia likewise occurred here
and there! Tetranthera, Valeriana, Scabiosa, Conaria, Holcus elegans.

In the broken ground before reaching this, Gaultheria nummularifolia,
Primula minor, in crevices of rocks. In some places Erythrina was very
common, Gentiana, Dipsacus, Sedum and Didymocarpus contortus on rocks,
Saccharum aristatum, Salix lanata, Woodwardia, Primula minor, which grows
in shade on the Khasya hills, is found here in sunny wet places. The
scenery in some places is very romantic, and occasionally grand; the
valley of the Koollong being closed far to the north by a high ridge and
beautiful peaks, all heavily snowed. The Rajah's house is visible from a
considerable distance. As we approached, some parts were rugged and
bold. Water abundant throughout.

[Gradient Phoollong to Tassangsee: g239.jpg]