Centaurea fruticosa, C. spinosa, Anthylloides or Ononoides, Astragalus
spinosus, and Staticoides, another thorny Composita occurs, but is not
common, the herbaceous plants are Cruciferae in large numbers, as well as
Compositae; of Boragineae, a good many, some Labiatae, a large Salvia:
towards the tillable lands or where gravelly places occur among these,
Asphodelus is common with Cheiranthus; one or more fruticose Dianthi
occur in these places, and a curious shrubby Polygonum.
In dry watercourses Cytisus is common, with a host of small Cruciferae,
Boragineae, and Compositae; Papaveraceae are very common with Glaucium.
The novelties in the pass were Ficus, Lycium, some grasses, Onosma. (See
Cat. from Nos. 411 to 430,) Marchantiaceae.
_7th_. - Proceeded to Hydozee, distance eight miles. The country is very
barren, diversified by curious low hills, of a red, white, or yellowish
colour, divided by small bits of plain, which in some cases were a good
deal cut up by ravines. Passed immediately on starting, the Sudoozye
Lora, here a sluggish muddy stream, knee-deep, twenty yards wide, and in
addition to a bad dry cut, we passed likewise another little stream with
a pebbly bottom and rapid current.
The crops composing the very little cultivation seen before arriving,
were backward and scanty: so were those at Hydozee. The chief vegetation
is Santonica; here and there are gravelly spots with Centaurea fruticosa,
spinosa; Statice, Salvia, etc. re-occur. The commonest shrub along the
watercourses is Lycium, with another Lycioid thorny plant.
The low hills were in some cases stratified, the strata in others and
perhaps in most were indistinct: most were rounded, but the outlines at a
distance were very diversified. The novelties today were a fine
vesicular calyxed Astragalus, an Isatidea, tulip of red, orange, and
yellow, indiscriminately mixed, Papaver Rheas, Cheiranthus lapidium,
Asphodels both sorts, but the second and larger one is uncommon, Iris
_Stacyana_ very common in sandy places, Iris agrestis, most common about
Suddozye, Adonis, and Ranunculus Anemoides occurs. Snow on north side of
Tuckatoo mountain as heavy as on Chiltera; the valley of Pisheen is here
a miserable place, narrower than that of Quettah.
_9th_. - Advanced to Hykulzyea, distance twelve miles to the town, about
eleven through a similar country with that previously noted, and until
the expanded part of the valley of Pisheen is entered the aspect is very
barren; the road extends between low rounded hills. After crossing the
valley of Hydozyea, three streams are passed, none of any size. Botanical
features continue the same, Santonica being still the prevailing plant.
The curious frutex pluvinatus of Sinab re-occurred, together with an
additional subspiny Astragaloid shrub and a small Ruta. The hills are
covered with distinct small shrubs, never coalescing into patches.
Peganum continues in addition to the other plants: Glaucioides has
aqueous juice, Papaver Rheas ditto, the other smooth-leaved one has it
slightly milky.
Lycium and Tamarisk 4-fida is rather common: Hykulzyea is a far larger
place than Quettah, but miserably defended. The houses are very
inferior, consisting of thatch and mud. The cultivation of wheat is
rather extensive around. Many villages are seen towards the hills to the
north and NNE.; also one or two forts, but not a tree is to be seen in
the valley which is comparatively very large and very level. The hills
to the north have the ordinary appearance; those separating us from the
valley of Hydozyea, more especially the lower ranges, are so confused
that they look like a chopping sea, and present a red and white colour.
The rock pigeon of Loodianah is common about Hydozyea. A few novelties
occurred in the vegetation, the chief of which being a large Salvoid
Labiata, a plant which is very common throughout Khorassan from Sinab in
gravelly spots. Leguminosae, Boragineae, Compositae, Cruciferae, and
Labiatae, are the prevailing plants; Salsola tertia not uncommon. Birds
as before, Alauda cristata, and Sylvioides being the most common; no red
legged crows were seen. Rock pigeons are abundant.
_10th_. - March to Berumby, distance thirteen miles, the road very bad in
one or two places: the first difficulty being a rather deep ravine, the
second a nullah, with water knee-deep, and very high precipitous banks,
yet both these had to be passed. Much of the baggage was not up at the
encampment until 5 P.M., although we started at 3 A.M., but the nullah
was literally choked up with camels. No change in the vegetation has
appeared, except in the occurrence of large tracts of Tamarisk, which
tree reaches to nearly the same size as the _Jhow_. Very little
cultivation is to be seen; the villages are tolerably numerous,
especially near the hills forming the north boundary of the valley.
_11th_. - Entered the pass which is at first wide, with a gradual ascent,
but which soon becomes narrowish, with a good though gradual and easy
ascent: the mountains are of no height, and they are not generally
precipitous: no limestone, but much clay slate occurs. The ravine up
which we passed, or rather watercourse, was well stocked with
Xanthoxylon, some of large size as to the diameter of trunk, but very
stumpy: water is found not far from the entrance: some cultivation also
occurs and one large walled village, Dera Abdoollah Khan, lay to our
left. Not much change in the vegetation: Xanthoxylon is almost entirely
confined to ravines, Cerasus common, and one or two other prickly shrubs,
and a Ruta, Onosma, Linarea, coming into flower, are among the novelties.
We encamped where the pass becomes narrow, and the ascent steep, and
where water is plentiful, but the stream being soon absorbed does not
appear to run down the main ravine at this season.
_12th_. - Halted, to make the road where the main ascent commences about
400 yards from our camp, and which is about 300 feet high; thence there
is a descent, and afterwards an ascent to about 600 feet above the camp,
whence the _low_ plains of Candahar are visible, as well as the range to
the north of which Candahar stands. The road is good compared with
places elsewhere to be seen, and for common traffic on camels may be easy
enough; but for guns, it is steep and difficult. The way it has been
made by the Engineers is admirable and rapid; three other passes without
roads, and in their rude natural state are as yet to be crossed. The
pass here is narrow, none of the hills rise more than 1,000 feet above
it, they are easily accessible, and are composed chiefly of clay slate.
Chikores are frequent. The cuckoo was heard to-day, as well as a
beautifully melodious titmouse, with a black crown: a fine eagle, or
falcon was seen.
The hills are as usual barren, all the shrubs are thorny, and all the
plants unsocial, never coalescing into any thing like groups. The
Xanthoxylon is found throughout in ravines up to nearly 7,000 feet, the
utmost height of the pass. Fraxmus of Chiltera also occurs, Cerasus
primus, in abundance, Cerasus alius, tertius, not uncommon, Berberis!
here and there in ravines, Equisetoides, Caraganoides altera; the most
common shrubs of any size are Cerasus primus. The other shrubs consist
of the low customary Compositae, and Astragaleae, Umbelliferae are
common, among which last the Nari, a species of Assafoetida occurs? A
beautiful Iris is common, as well as tufts of Berberideae, Asphodelus
major, and which is much eaten when cooked as a _turkaree_ by our hungry
followers, Eryngioides, Aconitoides, a Valeriana, three new small
Veronicae, small Cruciferae, Silenaceae, Boragineae, and Labiatae, form
the bulk of the herbaceous vegetation. An Arenarioid, Muscoid,
Cruciferae, common at the head of the pass. A large Acanthoid leaved
Umbellifera, a Rheoides papillis verrucosum, this is a true Rheum, and
when cultivated becomes the _Ruwash_ of the Affghanistans; it is very
common on the Candahar face of the pass, particularly about Chokey, where
it is in flower.
_13th_. - Proceeded to Chokey, not quite four miles. The top of the pass
may be reached by three or four passes. I went by one to the right,
which is easy enough, and the descent from which is much better adapted
for camels than the made road, which is very steep, with two sharp turns,
but soft. The descent thence is gradual, down one of the ordinary
ravines, well clothed with the usual shrubs and Xanthoxylon: our camels
were a good deal fagged, but more from the halt at the pass, where some
cathartic plant abounds and weakens them very much, than fatigue. The
view from the top of the pass is very extensive: the plains are seen to
have nearly the same level, and are divided here and there very
frequently to north-east and north, by the ordinary mountains.
_14th_. - Halt; water here is not abundant, and is obtained from driblets
and pools; around these, the surface is covered with a rich sward, which
affords fine fodder for a small number of horses. In the swampy spots,
_Beccabunga_, Anagallis, Mentha, Carex, Glaux, apparently identical (so
far as a memory of 7 years may be trusted,) with the English plant, the
small variety of Leontodon, Medicaginoides, Phleum, and the very small
Amaranthoid, Polygonea, occur.
The hills around Chokey, and below it are rounded, those towards the pass
being more steep. They are covered with Centaurea fruticosa, and C.
spinosa, a favourite food of camels when it has young shoots, Santonica,
Statice, all of which grow precisely as before, Boragineae, Compositae,
Labiatae, and Papilionaceae, are the predominant forms, and mostly of the
same type: I observe a tendency among Boragineae to have cup-shaped nuts.
Generally speaking, the plants are the same as those before found. Rheas,
Papaver, Glaucium purpureum, especially the two last are common, Labiata
salvoides, Iris persica, and crocifolia (rare), Trichonema, Gentiana,
Alyssoides.
The novelties were Rheum, Silena fruticosa, Linaria, Ruta, Astragalina, 2
small Silenaceae, Iris, Glaucium aureo-croceum, a beautiful Boragineae
with cup-shaped nut, Lotoides, an Hippophaoid looking shrub, Scrophularia
sp. singulous, Malthioloids spiralis, Allium, Glaux, Nitella, etc. (See
Catalogue 482 to 516.) Graminea very common, Rottboellia and
Anthistiria, 2 curious forms, the other more northern, Umbelliferae
common, Nari much less so than on the south face.
The vegetation of the summit which is nearly 7,000 feet, and of peaks
which rise 600 to 700 feet above the pass, has no change, except the
abundance of Cruciferae and Muscoides; Cerasus is the chief shrub;
Thymelaeus frutex occurs at 6,500 feet. The prevailing rock is clay
slate.
_16th_. - Marched to Dund-i-Golai, distance fifteen miles, we first
descended gradually to the plain, and then traversed this until we
skirted some low hills, about one and a half mile, from which a pool of
water was situated, where we halted, and which was fed by a small cut
coming from some distance. The road was very good throughout, the water-
cuts although not unfrequent, being either shallow or skirting the left
of the road. The vegetation continued the same as about Chokey, until
the plains were reached, but the prickly shrub, habitu Berberidioides,
became more common in the water-cuts below than I had seen it before,
while Santonia, Centaurea spinosa, and the plants of Chokey, disappeared
as we reached the plain, except some few herbaceous forms, which
continued throughout. I was much indisposed during this march, and for
the time we halted at Dund-i-Golai, a period of four days, was unable to
go out, but Capt. Sanders and my people brought me many novelties, which
I have not yet noted down. The chief vegetation of the plain is Salsola
tertia, the surface is level and firm, clothed with scattered Salsola and
a few stunted herbaceous plants, among which a yellow Centaureoid, a
Crucifera siliquis junioribus clavati 4-gonis, were the most common,
there was also a curious Thiscoid looking plant. A considerable change
commenced about the low hills, a Thymelaeus shrub, some curious grasses,
an Erodium, a Santonica, occupying the places of the former shrubs, and
Dipsacus or Scabiosa becoming very common. The height of this place is
about 4,040 feet, the climate most variable. Fahr. thermometer 48
degrees to 105 degrees in single roofed tents. No cultivation seen, a
pool of water is situated near the hill, and a little is reported as
situated half-way between this place and Chokey, this however I did not
see. The country is much parched up, and bears every appearance of
always having been so; no remains of tanks, villages, etc. visible.
Painted partridges were seen; and the eggs of a large bird like a plover?
The wind inclining to be hot, but it is cool up to 7.5 or 8 A.M.
Alaudo cristata? and an Alauda with the form of Sylvia.
_Sunday_, _21st_. - Proceeded to Killa Pootoollah, a distance of ten
miles. The road was good over an open, dry, level country, but
intersected with small cuts: some cultivation was passed, but no
villages. Some little improvement was observed close to the Garrah
hills, which are of the usual description, and of no great height: a
curious slip of the strata exhibited itself, in which the upper strata
are cut away in the centre as if there had been a watercourse there.
Vegetation continues the same. The Thymelaeous shrub and Iris, still
occur in sandy spots, Allium and a second species; Centaureoides, yellow
and pink, Thesioides, a curious sand-binding grass, Salsola tertia most
common, and in some open firm places _Joussa_ reappears as it did at Dund-
i-Golai: Anthemis occurs, Rheas, Salvioides in stony places, otherwise
few of the plants of the Pisheen side are seen; grapes abundant about old
and new cultivation, Hordeum, Bromus several species, Triticoides, etc.,
in profusion. Passed a deep well of considerable diameter, which had an
open communication with a widish and deep canal, the only place I have
seen that would hold a good deal of water; it was cut throughout in
shingle, and was perhaps fifty feet in its deepest part.
_22nd_. - Left Pootoollah for Mailmandah, and on our arrival found some of
the troops and the cavalry had passed through and made a double march to
the river Lora, a distance in all of twenty-four miles. There is a good
deal of pure water at Mailmandah running in a cut by the side of that,
which is in the rains a considerable stream, also one or two _Kabreezes_
about two miles further on, producing excellent water. The road first
led up a ravine of some width, and swardy, and then over low hills, until
we surmounted these to descend into the valley in which part of the army
halted. The country continues mostly the same; although if possible it
is still more barren than before: the mountains generally are more
rugged: the ridges frequently toothed, and the sides precipitous; not a
tree to be seen except a willow near some water, and a small arbusculoid
fig. After passing the halting place we re-ascended an inclined plane,
entered a gorge, and again issued out of it: after a short time again we
entered into another valley drained by an actual river, _really_
_containing water_, and bounded to the west and north-west by curious
red low hills, not unlike an embankment. The vegetation continues much
the same: Salsola tertia very common in some sandy places, Centaurea
spinosa, Statice, Santonia, etc. re-assuming their places on all gravelly
slopes: some novelties occurred as (See Catalogue, Nos. 543 to 574
inclusive,) one or two new shrubs, Cytisus, etc. The heat continues
great; 102 degrees Fahr. in tents in the middle of the day. We encamped
on a flat ground about 200 yards from the river, which contains a good
deal of water, and has a sluggish stream running to the north, surrounded
by mountains, none of any height. Wheat cultivation, Arundo, Vitex,
Prunus or Cerasus abundant in the pass to the river, and yet the former
does not indicate water as it ought to do, Lycium, Tamarisk, Arundo on
the banks of the river, and Tamarisk in profusion in its bed.
The cultivation on the opposite side of the river is remarkably clear of
weeds, as compared with the cultivation at Quettah, etc. Achilleoides,
Veronica, Iris crocifolia, Phalaris, Chenopodium, Rottboellioides,
Hordeum vulgare, being the only or the chief plants cultivated.
Proceeded next to Dai Hap, thirteen miles, over a similar but even more
barren country, the hills being destitute of all vegetation, except a few
stunted small shrubs, such as Statice. The usual plants recur with
shingle and in sand, the chief is a _Santonica_, {349} a few novelties
occurred, among which is a curious plant, with large vesiculate petaloid
connectiva. See Catalogue, No. 576, et sequent.
The hills continue with toothed ridges, near Dai Hap, where water is
abundant, but not in the form of a river. Thymelaea occurs in abundance,
with a Mimosea fruticosa humilis: a curious hairy-fruited Polygonum et
Peganum, is among the most common plants.
_25th_. - To Khoshab, distance twelve miles, over a large level plain,
either sandy, and then generally cultivated, or gravelly, and then
uncultivated: road open: passed two dry beds of rivers: one must be of
large size, but is very shallow. A new Tamarisk occurs along it; no
trees are visible until we approach Candahar: vegetation continues much
the same. _Santonica_, (see above) Centaurea spinosa, Astragalina
(Ononoides recurs), Staticoid, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoid, Peganum, are
the chief plants, especially on gravel; most of the small Cruciferae have
disappeared, Labiata-Salvioides continues; a curious subaphyllous
Composita occurs, Iris persica is not uncommon; another Iris is found
here and there in profusion, with Gnidia in sandy spots, Compositae,
Monocotyledons of Abigoon are common in shingle. New rock pigeons. Fine
madder cultivation in _khets_. Of birds the yellow hammer occurs.
Villages numerous, poor, and though built of mud and straw yet present
abundance of small domes.
In these dry hot plains the prevailing wind is westerly, blowing very
strong in the heat of the day, and having a tendency to become hot: the
thermometer is here 98 degrees. The cultivation of wheat is very general
around our present encampment which is within four miles of Candahar, the
wheat is fine; Lolioides occurs in it.
_26th_. - Halted: Candahar is hid from us by some low hills, on the
surmounting of which a large straggling place is obscurely visible,
interspersed with trees, the valley is much smaller than that in which we
are now, which is very extensive. Munjit cultivation is conducted by
deep trenches, it is a different species I think from that of the
Himalayas. The bed of the Turnuk is now dry and very shallow: and the
hills near us are extremely barren, the chief vegetation being
Paederioides vestila and Staticoides cymosa, Cheiranthus continues. The
vegetation is very poor as indeed it has been since leaving the Khojeb
Amrah, nor is there any appearance to be seen of a better autumnal
vegetation.
Candahar is visible at a distance of six miles, from some low hills to
the north of our camp.
_27th_. - Moved to Candahar, skirting the low hills just mentioned and
passed through two villages, a mile from Candahar in a fine open plain.
Candahar has rather a pleasing aspect; it is situated close to a
picturesque range of hills, and is well diversified with trees, barley
and wheat fields. The slope on which the town stands is a parallelogram;
towers occur frequently along the wall, which is however, of mud, and not
strong; it is surrounded by a ditch utterly insignificant on account of
its narrowness and shelving banks, this ditch is crossed by an
insignificant causeway. The gate at which I entered is oblique, and is
defended by a tower: it leads into the main street which is rather wide
and not very dirty: towards the centre of this you pass under a middling
dome, a street branching off to the right and left; the continuation of
the main street or bazar leads to the _topekhanah_, or artillery ground,
a small space quite disorderly, containing eight or ten guns, most of
them melted at the mouth; one Sheik 18-pounder of cast iron, another of
English make, 140 years old. From the end of this space you pass over
another similar ditch into the fort, the entrance to which is covered,
affording two or three angles capable of good hand to hand defence.
Passing thence through some spaces occupied by low buildings, you reach
Khoondil Khan's house, an extremely rude looking place outside, but very
different within. It consists of two houses, one looking into a small
square with a delicious reservoir of water, and some fine and very green
mulberry trees; the ground being laid out as a garden with sweet-william,
etc.; the water is supplied by a small cut, and is seven or eight feet
deep. The garden fronts of both houses are prettily ornamented, one has
a _tharkhanah_, delightfully cool; generally the rooms are small, coated
with a pretty sort of stucco. The remaining sides of the square are
occupied by offices; small rooms opening into the garden by lattice work
evidently denote a portion of the _zenana_. Altogether the Khan must be
a man of taste.
The bazars of the city are well thronged, but the shops are by no means
equal to those of Buhawulpoor, and the manufactures, except those of
earthenware, are utterly insignificant.
Tobacco, _atta_, _musallahs_, dried fruits, _aloo-bokhara_, figs,
apricots, raisins, salt, sugar, a green fruit something between a plum
and greengage, meat, onions, salads, _dhie_, _sherbets_, _kubabs_, wicker-
work, singing birds, are offered for sale: also abundance of Lucerne and
some _bhoosee_. Altogether it is a busy place, but not so busy as the
road near the gate, which is thronged by followers, and dismounted
Europeans, who are forbidden access to the city without a pass. Tea from
Khiva of good quality is procurable in small quantities. No women but
old ones to be seen. The dress of the inhabitants very often, and in
some cases very completely, approximates to that of the Chinese. The
features too of most are evidently of Tartar cast, and some wear two
tails of plaited hair. Blue seems to be a favourite colour of dress.
The chief trees about the city are mulberry, a few _Khunjucks_, which is
the Xanthoxylon of Bootan and the Kojhlak passes, occur outside; willows
are frequent, and generally appear to be cultivated, among these a
weeping species here and there occurs.
_May 3rd_. - The resources of the city are evidently small, the only
things indeed that appear plentiful are earthenware and milk: grain is
excessively dear, but is reported to exist in considerable quantities.
Khoondil Khan having ordered all those out of the city, who had not
provided themselves with six months' provisions. _Atta_ or flour is now
selling at two seers a rupee, or 6d per pound, and every thing is
proportionally dear: wood excessively so, the chief fuel is derived from
the _Santonia_, which in some form or other appears to constitute a
principal feature of the vegetation of Central Asia, and there is some
other wood apparently derived from some tree I have not yet seen.
Some discontent prevails in the town owing to the high price of
provisions, which is, no doubt, severely felt. The established price of
grain is at the rate of eight seers the rupee, a rate established by the
king, but on occasions like the present there can be no rule. Water is
very abundant, it is to be found within four feet of the surface, and
some regiments have already supplied themselves from this source by means
of temporary wells. The water is excellent.
Asses, ponies, and horses are common, the former are excellent, 150
rupees is a good price for one; they carry heavy loads with the
additional weight of an Affghan on their back; the ponies or tattoes are
less valuable, but still they are strong.
The horses are indifferent; good, generally speaking, but heavy, and with
little spirit. Excellent milch cows have been procured for twenty-five
rupees, including the calf. Goats are not easily procurable. Sheep
(_Doombas_) are common, and afford excellent mutton, they vary in price
from two to three rupees.
Tea from Bokhara is procurable in small quantities; its quality is
decent: it was originally eight rupees a seer but is now thirty. Coarse
Russian cloths, and very inferior silks are also procurable.
The great drawbacks are the want of wood, and above all want of
inhabitants; from what I have seen of the cultivation, the soil appears