the usual one very common, Asphodelus, Mesembryanthoides, and luteus,
several Compositae, two or three Cnicoidei, a Pulicaria, etc. of the same
section, Cuscuta, Linaria angustifolia, Stipa, several withered grasses,
Dianthoides, Scrophularia, Allium, Cerasus canus, pygmaeus uncommon,
Sedoides, Boragineae, Boraginis facie common, Leucades, Astragali, three
or four, Onosmae 2, angustifolia and majus, Scutellaria, Equisetoides,
Ephedra.

Anthylloides, Plectranthus common, Peganum uncommon, Staticoides major,
Compositae dislocata common.

In the swardy and wet spots along river, the usual plants occur; the
novelty being a Hippuris out of flower, Plantago, Glaux, Chara, Alisma,
Tamarisk, Salix, Trifolium fragiferum, Thermopsis, Cyperacea, Triglochim,
Equisetum. The _Nuthatch_ found in the cliffs, cultivation occurs.

To-day news arrived of the flight of Dost Mahommud to Bamean, with 3,000
Affghan Horse. Captain Outram sent in pursuit. The Shah joined us,
attended by perhaps 2,000 Horse, and people are said to be flocking into
our camp from Cabul.

_4th_. - Proceeded to Killa-Sir-i-Mahommud, distance ten and a half miles,
direction north by east, the park of artillery, etc. remaining behind,
the road for the first half extending over undulating ground to the head
of the valley, then becoming level and good with some inferior
cultivation: the valley is dry and barren. We encamped on stony ground
forming a slight eminence under a beautiful peak, certainly 4,000 to
5,000 feet above the plain, and hence 12,000 to 13,000 feet above the
sea. The valley at the base of the hills is occupied by a few villages,
but generally speaking little population exists in these parts. No
change in vegetation; at the level part of the march the Chenopodiaceae
of Karabagh is very common.

The 2,000 Dooranees who joined the Shah yesterday dwindled down to 300 by
the evening, and the camp was fired into at night. There is some
cultivation about this, chiefly of mustard, carrots, millet and Panicum,
Setaria.

_5th_. - To Maidan, distance eight miles? direction at first as before,
but after crossing the river due north, we continued down the valley,
passing some villages and cultivation consisting of beans, etc.; water
being abundant about three miles from camp, forming a small brook, which
falls into the Cabul river at the end of the valley. Before reaching
this we crossed a low spur, and then descended into Maidan valley: which
presented a beautiful view; much cultivation, and trees abundant along
the Cabul river.

Crossing this which is a rapid current one foot deep, twenty yards wide,
running south, or in the contrary direction to that which is given in
Tassin's Map, we ascended an eminence on which a ruinous stone fort is
built, we crossed this eminence between the fort and main ridge and
descended into a valley again, keeping above the cultivation at the foot
of the east boundary range, for about a mile, when we halted. The ruins
of a stone bridge exist over the river, one arch remaining on the left
bank.

The valley is the prettiest we have seen, the hills to the west and north
being lofty and picturesque; one to the latter direction presenting an
appearance exactly like that of snow on its ridge, quite white, but not
changing even at noon, nor occupying such places, as it would do if it
were snow. The mountains, except those to the west, are not boldly
peaked, the valley is prettily diversified with wood, all of the usual
sombre cypress-like appearance, from the trees, especially poplars, being
clipped. Cultivation and water both plentiful: villages and small forts
numerous, with very barren mountains. This was the place where Dost
Mahommud was to have fought; he could not have selected a better, the
ridge entering the valley, and the passage of the river, as well as that
of the fort would have afforded good positions: a road however runs round
the base of the eminence on the river side. By swamping the valley, or
cutting a canal, and entrenching himself he might have caused great
difficulties. Apples are abundant here, rosy and sweet.

Cultivation of the valley consists of wheat, barley, Cicer, not _chunna_,
maize, rice, carrots, beans, peas.

The river side is well furnished with willows and poplars, Salix viminea
also occurs; the villages are generally square, with a bastion at each
corner, and loopholes. Cyprinus microsquamatus, {383} common.

_6th_. - Arghundee, distance eight miles, direction for the first fourth
of the way NE., then considerably to the eastward, when we soon left the
valley and commenced with an ascent over a low ridge by a vile stony road
over undulating ground. On reaching the ridge a similar descent took
place, where the road becomes less stony, but much intersected by
ravines. We encamped about three miles from the ridge, in a rather
barren narrow valley. Nothing of interest occurred on the road, except
Dost Mahommud's guns, which are the best I have seen in the country. The
hills to our north crowded closely together, the inner ranges are very
high, with the appearance of snow.

Hindoo-koosh is dimly seen in the distance to the eastward. In some
streams water birds, particularly the small kingfisher of India are seen.
The Hoopoe is common, Merops, Pastor, and ravens. New plants a Boragineae
floribus infundibuliformis, tubiformibus, loeta caeruleis, venosa roseis,
melons. Snow on the Hindoo-koosh: rain in the afternoon, and at night a
heavy thunderstorm to the north.

_7th_. - Kilah-i-Kajee, lies one mile to the eastward: distance of
to-day's march, nine miles? one continued but gradual descent over a bad,
frequently very stony road, not much water. Direction at first ENE.,
then on descending into the first valley, due east or even to the south
of east, we encamped in the centre of a well-cultivated valley; near
dense gardens, having good apples; apricots indifferent. Hindoo-koosh is
here more distinctly visible with several ranges interposed; the outline
is rugged, highest point presenting a fine conical irregular peak towards
the south-east.

_8th_. - Halted: encamped close to gardens and rich cultivation. The
fields are separated by rows of poplars, willows, and Elaeagnus; scenery
pretty from abundance of trees with rice fields interspersed among woods;
the umbrageous banks of the rocky river of Cabul, are quite of unusual
beauty for Afghanistan: extensive fields of cultivation lie in this
direction, as well as across the valley in the direction of Cabul,
consisting of rice in great quantities, mixed with much of a Panicum
stagninum, lucerne, carrots, peas, quantities of safflower, which appears
to me to be of a different species, wheat and barley both cut, the rice
is just in flower.

In orchards, hazel-nuts, apples, pears, etc. some of the fruit excellent,
particularly pears, but generally they are coarse; apples beautiful to
look at, but poor to the taste, excellent but too luscious plums, good
grapes, excellent and fine sized peaches, melons as good as those of
Candahar, water melons, cherries of very dark colour.

Some change is to be observed in the vegetation, see Catalogue, two or
three Labiata, an Ononis, an Aconite, Tussilago? etc. among the most
striking, Ammannia and Bergioides, remarkable as tropical forms, but it
is now hot enough for any plant: rice fields crowded with Cyperaceae and
Alisma.

Crataegus oxycantha, or one very like it. The poplar here grows like the
Lombardy one, either from cropping or crowding; its leaves (when young)
are much smaller! and at this stage it might easily be taken for another
species.

Heliotropium canus common. The large poplar when young, or even when
matured, has its younger branches with terminal leaves like the sycamore.
The pomaceae-foliis palmatis subtus niveis of Quettah and Candahar are
nothing but this poplar in its young state!! Nothing can exceed the
difference between the two, both in shape and tomentum.

_12th_. - Halted since 10th at Baber's tomb, situated at some fine
gardens, or rather groves very near the summer-house of Shah Zumaun, and
to the right of the entrance into the town. It is a delightful
residence, and for Afghanistan, a paradise. There are some tanks of
small size, around one of which our tents are pitched under the shade of
sycamores and fine poplars; the tank is fed by a fall from a cut above
its level, and which skirts the range of hills at an elevation of fifty
feet in some places from its base. The tomb of Baber is poor, as also is
the so-called splendid mosque of Shah Jehan, a small ordinary open
edifice of coarse white marble. In the gardens, one finds beautiful
sycamores, and several fine poplars both round the tank and in avenues.
Below them a Bauhinioid fruit was found, together with abundance of
hawthorn, roses, and jasmines.

The view from this spot is beautiful, as fine as most woodland scenery.
The view from Shah Zumaun's summer-house is also extensive, and not to be
exceeded as a cultivated woodland scene; it is variegated with green
swardy commons, presenting all sorts of cultivation; with water,
villages, abundance of trees, willows, poplars, hedgerows, and by the
grand but barren mountains surrounding it, the Pughman hills, which must
be at least 13,000 feet above the sea.

The entrance to Cabul on this side, is through a gorge flanked by hills;
these to the left are low, those to the right reaching 1,000 feet,
through which the Maidan river, here called the Cabul river, runs; it may
be 100 yards wide. The river is subdivided, and crossed by a ruined
stone bridge of many arches, one parapet of which (the outer) is
continuous with the wall before mentioned. The gorge is occupied by
cultivation of several kinds, having the city wall at its termination,
running irregularly across the valley. A village is situated between the
entrance of the gorge and the wall. There are no defences to the city
worth mentioning: one enters immediately into narrow dirty streets, with
here and there a fever-breeding stagnant sewer; while the streets are
narrow, the bazars are good, of good breadth, well covered in by flat
ornamented roofs: the shops are clean, and well laid out. Shoemakers and
leather-workers, and fruiterers, are the most common: there are
armourers, blacksmiths, drapers and bakers. Hindoos and Mussulmen
intermixed, form the population. There is great bustle and activity,
everywhere profusion of fine fruit, especially melons, grapes, and apples
are presented.

_13th_. - I ascended this morning the ridge above us, up which the wall
runs; the ascent is, after surmounting the summer-house of Shah Zumaun,
considerably steep, and very rugged. The highest position of the wall is
1,150 feet above the city. It is eight feet high, and six or seven
thick, composed of slabs of the micaceous slaty stone of the place,
cemented by mud, with a parapet of two feet, generally of _kucha_, or
mud, with loopholes, and bad embrasures. It is furnished with bastions,
but is now in a ruinous state. It is a work completely thrown away. To
the south, the wall bends eastward, and is continuous with the outworks
of the upper citadel; to the north it dips into the gorge, and re-ascends
the hills on the opposite side.

From the peak, (which is not the highest point of the ridge, there being
two higher to the south, on the nearest of which is a mound, and a small
pillar) a beautiful view is obtained of Cabul, its valley, and its
mountains, together with the far more beautiful valley in which the army
is encamped.

The town itself presents an irregular outline, and is, with the exception
of some gardens towards its northern side, some lucerne fields near its
centre, and one or two open spots of small size, densely crowded with the
usual terraced-roofed, _kucha_, or mud houses, which are so close, as to
show no streets whatever.

There is not a single conspicuous building in it, with the exception of
the lower Bala Hissar and a mosque of small size on the right bank of the
river, occupying an open space near a garden, which alone renders it
distinct.

The Bala Hissar occupies the eastern corner: its outworks are regular
enough. It is surrounded by the remains of a wet ditch; its works have
been lately improved. Excepting the part occupied by the Shah, etc. the
space is crowded by houses exactly like the town. The fort to its south
and commanding it completely, is the upper citadel, and is altogether out
of repair; this continues the defence formed by the wall. The walls of
the city themselves are not distinguishable, excepting those of the
nearest quarter, occupied by Kuzzilbashes. The river intersects the
town, it is crossed by two, three, or perhaps more small stone bridges,
and runs nearly due east, and may be traced almost to the foot of the
eastern boundary range. From near the mosque a fine straight road runs
NNE. or thereabouts, with avenues of trees of small size near the town.
Two other roads are visible on the east side; one is continuous with that
which runs along the north face of the lower citadel, it runs due east;
and the other slopes towards this, and meets it about two or three miles
from the city at the end of a low range of hills.

The valley is not so well cultivated as ours, (i.e. the one in which the
army is encamped) nor by any means so well wooded; it appears bare some
way from the city, but this may arise from the stubble of the prevailing
cultivation of wheat and barley. There is abundance of water, the only
distinct _Chummun_ is to the south of the citadel, it is now under water.

Some low isolated hills or ranges are interspersed in the valley; of
these the largest is that running nearly parallel to the central road;
the next is due north of the city, and midway between it and the salt-
water lake which stretches several miles along the north of the valley,
and which appears to be a large body of water.

The boundary hills are generally fine; to the east is a high scarped bold
range, running nearly due north and south, its terminations being plainly
visible; near its southern end commences the ridge that forms the oblique
south boundary of the valley, and which runs up towards the south into a
fine broadly conical peak, very conspicuous from Arghandab. To the north
are the fine Pughman mountains; these run east and west: they are of
great elevation, and of fine outline, presenting here and there
appearances of snow. To the west is the walled ridge, not exceeding
1,300 feet in its highest point above the general level; this is
interrupted by the Cabul river, and never reaches such elevations again;
before ending to the north, it sends off a spur to the east.

Beyond the eastern boundary, glimpses of the Hindoo-koosh are obtainable.

To the west, there are no very high hills visible, excepting the western
part of the Pughmans; those of our valley are not exceeding 2,000 feet in
height, and are low to the south, in which direction the Maidan river
flows into the valley. Beyond the highest point of the walled ridge, are
several crowded high mountains.

The vegetation of the western hills is not peculiar, Echinops, a tallish
Carduacea, Carduacea alia, Senecionoides, Astragali, Artemisiae 2,
Statice of Dhuni pass.

Leucades, Labiata of Karabagh, Gramineae, several small Compositae,
foliis dislocatis, Leguminosa, fructu echinatis, Santalacea, Asphodelus
luteus, Ruta angustifolia, Umbellifera, foliis maximis of Chiltera, a
very stout plant, with a very medicinal gum, a new Polanisioid, a
Centaureoid, and a fine Carduacea are to be found in it.

A Marmot, the size of a large rat, is also found here, the large
specimens are of a reddish tinge, the small ones of a blackish.

The bazars are crowded all day, and in the morning are obstructed from
asses loaded with wood. Most things are procurable; the cloths seen are
mostly the indifferent common kind of cloth related to the Seikh Puttoo;
camel hair _chogas_, posteens or coarse blankets; these last indicating
very cold winters: there are not many other things peculiar - long knives,
and the shoes and boots are among the most so, and wretched silk
handkerchiefs.

The most common grapes are the _kismiss_, a long coarse grape which
answers for packing, a round, very sweet, purple grape, with large seeds,
and small seedless ones intermixed, are all capable of being much
improved by thinning, and a huge, tough-skinned, coarse, purple grape, of
good flavour.

The best peaches have a green appearance, even when ripe; the ordinary
ones are coarse, and not well-flavoured; but the Affghans are quite
ignorant of the art of packing fruit, and hence most are bruised.

Two sorts of apples are common, both rosy; one very much so, but much
inferior to the other.

Pears principally of two kinds, both allied to the common pear in shape;
the large ones are very coarse, but well adapted for stewing.

_Aloocha_ excellent for jellies, as also the cherries: most kinds of
plums are now out of season.

The melons vary much in quality, the watermelons are generally better,
and vary less: the muskmelons I have here seen, are ruined by inattention
to the time of gathering; some are very fine, the pulp is never very deep
coloured; it is very rarely green; some of the Kundah sort are very good;
this and the _turbooj_ are both excessively common. The usual Cucurbita
is cultivated, as well as the other common cucumber, pumpkin, Luffa
foetida, and L. acutangula.

Cabbages common, beet root ditto, _bangun_ ditto, excellent spinage
(Spinaceae).

All sorts of spices procurable, but they are generally old: sugar very
good, is sold in flat candied cakes, one and a half inch thick; _koorool_
in small cakes resembling chunam.


CHAPTER XVI.


_From Cabul to Bamean - The Helmund_, _and Oxus rivers_.

_24th August_, _1839_. - Left Cabul for Bamean, and marched to
Urghundee.

_25th_. - To the Cabul river, distance twelve and a half miles; diverged
from the Cabul road at Urghundee Chokey, striking obliquely across a
ravine that debouches into the main valley at this point. The course of
the river ENE. or thereabouts, then we entered a ravine to the west side
of the river, and commenced ascending the pass, which is not difficult,
and although rather steep at first, subsequently it becomes merely
undulated, the surrounding hills of the pass have the usual character,
but are separated by mere ravines. Vegetation very scanty; Senecionoides
very common, as also _Joussa_ and Statice of Dund-i-sheer; here I noticed
the Solora found in the wood at Kilatkajee. The Barometer at the summit
of the pass, 22.148: thermometer 60 degrees. An extensive view is had
from it, up the Cabul river, the valley of which is well cultivated, but
presents nothing very striking in its neighbouring mountains. Great
numbers of sheep passed us going towards Cabul, also numbers of Patans
with their families, all on camels, than some of which last nothing could
be finer. The women's dress consists of loose gowns, generally bluish,
with short waists coming almost up under the arms, and leggings of folded
cloths; they are a gipsy-like, sun-burnt, good looking people. Numbers
of asses laden with grain were also passed. At the halting place
indifferent apples only were to be had. Slight rain fell in the
afternoon from east, then it became heavier from west.

_26th_. - Distance eight miles, the road lay along the Cabul river up a
gentle ascent, over undulated ground; features of country the same,
villages, etc., abundant. Heavy rain set in from the west after our
arrival at the encamping ground at 4 P.M., with thunder. Night hazy,
heavy dew.

_27th_. - To Sir-i-Chushme, distance ten miles, direction continues
easterly up the Cabul river valley: features the same; road generally
good, here and there stony, crossed a large tributary falling into the
Cabul river, from the north at Juljaily, a large village, the largest in
the valley, and very pretty. Poplars and willows in plenty along river.
Near Sir-i-Chushme the valley becomes narrow; the river passing through a
gorge, on the left side of which on rugged rocky ground, are the remains
of a tower. The rocks here are mica slate, reposing at a considerable
angle, occasionally nearly vertical. The surface is thinly vegetated,
Silenacea, two or three _Muscoides_ (981), Scrophulariae sp., common,
etc. (see Catal. 971, etc.) Beyond, the valley again widens, presenting
similar features to those just mentioned. To the right side of the
valley there is a beautiful narrow ravine, bounded on the south with
springs, to the north by a noble bleak rugged ridge, with much snow; it
has the usual features, namely, a shingly inclined plane between huge
hills. The village of Sir-i-Chushme is built on a rising ground or small
spur, surrounded by numerous springs which supply the source of the Cabul
river; the bed of which above them is nearly dry. The springs abound
with the usual water plants, a Cinclidotoid moss in abundance, a Celtoid
tree stands over one spring; Peganum continues. A shallow circular pool
occurs at the foot of the hills, on which the village is built; it is
crowded with the peculiar Cyprinidae of these parts, {390a} some of which
attain three pounds in weight, as also a small loach. {390b}

The cultivation throughout this valley is good. The soil is however
heavy, but in places it gives way to a brown mould: rice is cultivated up
to Julraiz, but not beyond, millet (Setaria), Indian-corn, lucerne,
mustard, beet root; beans and peas are very common.

Great pains are taken with watercuts, which are led off into each ravine
that debouches into the valley, at elevations of sixty to eighty feet
above the river; opposite each, the river where led off is bunded across.
The watercuts or courses are in some places built up with stones. Apricot
trees continue, also mulberries near Julraiz, but they are not
productive.

Timber is cut in good quantities, and is floated down in the spring to
Cabul. We continue to meet flocks of sheep and camels with Patans,
Momums, and Ghilzees going to Cabul, thence to Julallabad; after selling
their produce at Cabul, they return in the summer to the same pasturages.

The oxen used to tread out corn are muzzled: grain is winnowed as in
Europe by throwing it up in the wind, the corn falls nearest the wind,
the coarse chaff next, then the fine chaff. Sir-i-Chushme is about the
same height as the pass into the valley of the Cabul river.

English Scrophularia were observed to-day at Julraiz. We obtained all
provisions cheap at this place, but of very inferior quality compared to
Cabul.

The most common plants are Senecionoides and Plectranthus; Artemisiae one
or two, some Carduaceae. Very few novelties occur: hedges of Hippophae
and roses, Salvia very common to-day; asses were seen laden with dried
_Ruwash_ leaves.

_28th_. - To Yonutt, twelve miles, continued for a short distance up the
Sir-i-Chushme valley, then we diverged to the north-west, still following
the principal streamlet up an easy defile; on reaching a beautiful
_kila_, differently ornamented from the usual form, we diverged along the
same ravine much more to the west. We continued doing so for five or six
miles, passing a little cultivation in every possible spot capable of it,
and four or five forts. The ascent then commenced to be steeper, still
continuing up the watercourse which was very small; this we soon left,
passing over five ridges of easy access, the third being the highest.
Barometer 20.365: thermometer 80 degrees at 10.5 A.M.; after this we
descended the 5th ridge or kotal, 200 or 300 feet, which is very steep,
having a watercourse at its bottom; direction of stream lies to the
north, thence ascending we again descended gradually over an open stony
ridge, until we reached the fort of Yonutt, where we encamped near a
green wet spot, visible for some distance.

The road here and there was bad owing to stones; except at the last
kotal, or ascent, it was nowhere very steep, but difficult enough for
camels, especially up the ascent of the 1st kotal. It lay up a ravine
not unlike others we have seen, the ascent being considerable, but
gradual, when we left the watercourse, however, we came on a different
country, very elevated (1st kotal not under 10,000 feet), longly
_undulated_, the mountains generally massive, rounded, here and there
rising into peaks, especially to the south, near Yonutt, where there is a
fine ridge not under 14,000 or 15,000 feet, rugged with spots of snow;
the mountains to north of this are more rounded; slate and limestone