only solution of the circumstance is that those who caused it to
be done, wished to be different from other people.
Almost opposite to it are the remains of an ancient inn,
one of the very oldest to be found in the country — the George.
The hosts in old days were important people, one being a retired
courtier and another the father of Marchmont Needham, a
notorious character in the days of the Civil Wars.
On the same side of the road are more Tudor doorways,
and in one house (Messrs. Pether's) a representation of the " ball
flower " ornament is characteristic of the fourteen th-century
The Wesleyan Chapel was, till 1849, a private house. Here
again we may see the marks of Kempster and his adherence to
the Wren style of architecture. Kempster's arms are on the
building, identical with those upon his tomb in the church.
Lower down on the opposite side of the way, there is a
Tudor gateway which gives entrance to what is still called " the
College." No doubt it was one of those places which was
acquired by one of the Colleges at Oxford, in which they placed
the students in times of pestilence.
Further, a street now known as Priory Lane, but formerly
as St. John's Street, leads to what was in old days the Priory
of St. John the Evangelist. It is now one of the stately homes
of England and entrance to it cannot be obtained without special
The building at the corner, now the Falkland Hall, was
formerly a portion of the Bear Inn which it adjoins. No doubt
it was the Headquarters of the Earl of Warwick, the Kingmaker,
as he was called ; " the Bear and Ragged Staff " was his emblem.
The Oriel window in the Hall is specially worthy of notice.
In the building a little lower down on the east, we see again
the work of Kempster. It was formerly an important inn
specially constructed for travellers in the seventeenth century.
It now consists of a private house, and a part of it is the Girls'
THE BRIDGE AND CHURCH
The facade of the Vicarage, opposite, again shows the
characteristics of Wren, and the building of Kempster. The
latter was an earnest Church man. I wonder did he do the
work involved in the construction as a thankoffering ? There
are more unlikely things.
We now come to the Bridge, which is generally regarded as
one of the most beautiful parts of the town. The course of the
Windrush was altered years ago, but to-day, with its charming
waterfall and luxuriant trees, it forms an object which deserves
the highest admiration.
Here it was that the authorities of the town met Queen
Elizabeth when she paid her visit to Burford, and here they
presented her with a purse containing twenty angels.
Taking the first turning on the left a few yards brings us
to the entrance to the Church, one of the most beautiful in the
whole country. If we enter by the door in front of us, we are
in what is now called the Lady Chapel. At one time this part
of the Church stood further east as the masonry now shows.
It was a Chapel quite distinct from the Church itself and was
erected at the cost of the Brethren of the Gild. For many years
it was the burial place of the family of Sylvester and their tombs
are standing under the south wall. The modern work was
executed at the direction of the late Mr. Meade-Falkner.
The Nave is a noble portion of the edifice. It took the
place of an Early English structure.
The Font belongs to the Decorated period and it is quite
a work of art and thoroughly in consonance with the Church
itself. Upon the inner lead portion, cut in jagged characters,
we may see the name " Anthony Sedley, 1649 prisner." Near
is a curious structure ; it looks like a tomb, but it is simply a
memorial erected by Edmund Harman in his lifetime. He was
the man who bought the Priory after the Dissolution. He
married Agnes Sylvester of the family already mentioned.
The Chapel, ornately decorated, in front of us is now called
St. Peter's, but this was not its original name. From its position
it may have been originally the Chapel of Holy Rood.
And now, near us, there is the great Norman tower support-
ing the steeple above it. It is the earliest part of the Church
and was probably erected about 1100.
Further eastward in the Chancel is the very beautiful tomb
of Sir Laurence Tanfield and his wife, to whom reference has
been already made. At the base is a representation of Death ;
THE PARISH CHURCH
above, the Chief Baron and his wife lie in effigies. The lines on
the north side of the tomb are beautiful and touching.
At the east is a representation of Lord Falkland in the
uniform of the Guards, and on the west is another representation
of his mother, the only child of the Tanfields.
It was quite in accordance with her usual procedure that
Lady Tanfield should place the tomb in this aisle without asking
permission from anyone.
Opposite is the Bartholomew Aisle. Some of the epitaphs
on the tombs are extremely beautiful and were no doubt composed
by a poet of some consequence.
The next chapel contains what must have been originally a
very splendid tomb. It is not possible to say to whose memory
it was erected because the brasses were stolen centuries ago.
The Chapel of St. Thomas is approached by steps, and from
a door in this part of the building the ancient muniment rooms
The inner porch is one of the most beautiful parts of the
Church. It is not easy to think it is more than five centuries
old, so fresh does the stone appear.
It was in the streets of Burford that Cromwell fought his
battle with the Levellers and after subduing them he imprisoned
them in the Church. In the Churchyard he shot three of the
ringleaders, and the marks made by the bullets on the western
wall of the Churchyard may still be seen.
The very large stone coffin which stands near the western
entrance gate, was dug up a mile from the town, more than a
Adjoining the Churchyard are the Warwick Almshouses.
They were really erected by the Steward of the Kingmaker,
Henry Bishop. The Earl, as Lord of the Manor, gave him per-
mission to build them if he declared that he (the Earl) was the
The Grammar School is over the way and it is now quite
an important educational establishment, one entirely fulfilling
the requirements of the times.
We will go by the way of Guildenford to the Great House
in Witney Street. This was unquestionably another of the Wren
houses which Kempster erected. It was built at the command
of a member of the Castle family, whose tombs may be seen in
And now we have finished our stroll — all has not been told,
or nearly all respecting Burford — but exigencies of space forbid
a further recital.
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WHERE TO STAY IN
IN our itinerary of old Burford we have made passing
mention of several fine old inns at which the accommodation
provided may well remind us of that well-known and
oft-quoted passage in Boswell's Life of Johnson : " There is
nothing which has yet been contrived by man by which so much
happiness is produced as by a good tavern or inn," or bring
to mind again Shenstone's familiar quatrain :
" Whoe'er has travell'd life's dull round,
Where'er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found
The warmest welcome at an inn."
Burford is a perfect paradise for the lover of quaint old inns
redolent in every detail of the days of long ago, yet replete with
every modern comfort and convenience — medieval gables with
well-carved barge-boards, and stone-mullioned, well-designed
windows telling of the days when merchant princes, wool staplers
and ecclesiastics sought accommodation here for " man and
beast " ; characteristically four-centred Tudor doorways re-
miniscent of the spacious days of Elizabeth and " Bluff King
Hal " ; imposing Classic fronts and elaborate interiors reminding
us of the brilliant Renaissance period and the days of Kempster
and Wren already mentioned ; and last but by no means least
those massive, roomy mansions of which the Cotswold Gateway
Hotel is a typical specimen, telling of the coaching days of the
Victorian period which live still in Pickwick. Dickens would
have revelled in Burford, as every modern Dickensian does
One of the most delightful old inns is now known as The
Lamb Hotel (see page iv of cover). Its architectural detail
at once announces its fifteenth-century origin. It is a quaint,
rambling old place, and the fact that it carries the R.A.C.,
A. A. and C.T C. appointments is a sufficient guarantee that
the accommodation leaves nothing to be desired. (Anglers will
be interested to know that guests are permitted three miles of
fishing in the Windrush.
The Bull (see page ii of cover) holds the A. A. and C.T.C.
appointments. It is fully licensed, and offers up-to-date
accommodation for some 70-80 guests.
We have already noticed The Bear Inn, High Street (see
page ii of cover and page 20). The architectural detail of this
fine old hostelry alone announces its ancient origin and its
association with the great Beauchamp family, Earls of Warwick,
lends it a distinctly historical interest.
Page Twenty-four (a)
WHERE TO STAY IN BUREORD
In High Street also is a most interesting structure of the
Tudor or earlier period, as is evidenced by the line four-centred
stone doorway and the massive beams and quaint rooms of
the interior. Now a private hotel, known as The Highway,
it carries both the R.A.C. and A.A. appointments, and offers
twentieth-century service at a fifteenth-century house.
Two hotels enjoy specially fine situations. " High View "
(see page 6), an up-to-date private hotel, well deserves its title,
for it is situated 500 feet above sea level and possesses its own
grounds, covering two acres. Here every modern convenience is
provided, and the hotel carries the appointment of the R.A.C.
and the A.A. The other is the Cotswold Gateway Hotel, R.A.C.
and A. A., already mentioned (see pages 18 and 26). It is situated
on the main Oxford-Cheltenham road, and is fully licensed.
The New Inn (see page 24) is among a number which make
special provision for cyclists. These do not exhaust the list
of establishments catering admirably for visitors; enough has
been said, however, to demonstrate that ample accommodation
is provided in this ancient and picturesque old town on the
winding Windrush to suit all tastes and purses.
Old Oxfordshire Churches
By W. HOBART BIRD, F.R.S.A.
(A companion volume to Old Gloucestershire Churches)
A CONCISE POCKET GUIDE to the Churches of
Oxfordshire, especially compiled for motoring folk and
others interested in the architecture of our churches and
also their contents. Screens, Fonts, Brasses, etc. Illus-
trated with 45 photographs and 3 line drawings and
containing a valuable Introduction to the study of
196 pp. Crown 8vo., trimmed 7J x 4} ins.
6s. 6d. net. Postage 6d. Of all Booksellers
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and Imperial House, Cheltenham
Page Twenty-four (b)
(1) Go through Sheep Street and pursue the way to the west,
under the Priory wall. After going half a mile you will see an
enclosed space with curious mounds in it. These are the remains
of Kempster's Quarry, the place from which the stone came for
building a good deal of the interior of St. Paul's Cathedral and
the whole of the celebrated Tom Tower at Oxford. Pursue your
way till you come to the signpost denoting the road which leads
to Bibury and Cirencester. If you will now look to the south-
east and the day be favourable, it is possible to see right into
Hampshire ; the hills which fringe the horizon are the White
Horse with the Thames in between. The ancient Burford Race-
course is here. More than once Charles II came to the Races
here, and he brought Nell Gwynne with him. When the ground
was enclosed, the Races were taken three miles away to the
south-west and they were then called the Bibury Races, although
the village named was four miles away.
We are soon in Gloucestershire, and this is marked by sylvan
charms of no ordinary kind. We are now in the area which in
old days produced the freestone which was used for building a
great deal of St. Paul's and the Colleges at Oxford. The village
of Little Barrington is in the valley. Its houses are delightful
examples of Cotswold masonry. The Church is well worth seeing,
and in the north wall there is a remnant of Saxon work. Great
Barrington is on the hill to the north. Here again are more
delightful houses, surrounded by fine gardens. The village
belonged to the Brays in early days, but it passed to the Talbots
in the seventeenth century, and their descendants have lived in
it ever since, very much to the advantage of everybody in and
around the place. ...
Taynton is another village near. It was an extremely
busy place in early mediaeval times when the stone for building
most of the churches around was procured from its quarries.
(2) It is a delightful ramble through the village of Fulbrook
to Wychwood Forest. Here, at Capp's Lodge, is a most
charming view of the Berkshire and Wiltshire Downs. The
remains of Langley Palace are only a mile away.
(3) Go down Witney Street, and after two miles you are at
the tiny village of Widford. The Church stands quite by itself
in a field. It was erected upon the site of a Roman Villa as
the exposed tesserae show. The interior is a charming example
of Georgian character.
Swinbrook is near, across the fields. It is an extremely
pretty village. The Church contains the remarkable monuments
of the Fettiplace family and ancient miserere seats.
Telephone: BURFORD 6.
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On MAIN Oxford— Cheltenham Road
Asthall is also near. Its Church is principally remarkable
for a chapel which contains the effigy of a lady, we know not
who, and above is a window of ancient glass — one of the very
few which remain.
Go now to the top road. Here, immediately opposite the
turn, is an ancient round barrow which forms a landmark for
miles. In the adjoining valley, there are the remains of a
Roman building of some kind, probably a kind of barracks.
This should not be missed.
Minster Lovell is near. The one-storied houses on the
road are the results of that great furore for land which went
on in the " hungry forties." The ancient, picturesque village of
Minster stands in the valley as do the remains of the great
Castle of the Lovells. These are of the most picturesque
character and the Church near is the most excellent example
of Perpendicular masonry to be seen for many miles. The village
is chiefly known for its traditional association with the famous
ballad " The Mistletoe Bough."
(4) To the south of Burford there are villages and churches
such as you will rarely find anywhere else. Little more than
their names can be given here. They are all characteristic of
Shilton, a most beautifully placed village ; Alvescott, with
two fine mansions and a church of great interest ; Black-
bourton ; Kencott ; Bradwell ; Langford, with a church of
really remarkable interest, principally on account of its Saxon
work ; Filkins and Broughton.
Petrol, Oils, Accessories
CARS FOR HIRE.
For particulars inquire - J. HOLLO WAY.
HIGH STREET, BURFORD
m tmmti^mm^mm *>****
C. PETHER & SONS
Estimates given for
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for the Erection of all
kinds of Residences
All work carried out
ESTABLISHED FIFTY YEARS
High Street, BURFORD
'Phone: Burford 8. 'Grams: "Burford."
5£DH|sy r * BanburySfcr' 2^<7
CO. J. BURROWS CO LTD
Road and Railway Map of the Country around Burford
F. W. NEWMAN
The Centre of the HIGH ST.
SHIRTS & COLLARS
GARNE & SONS
BREWERS. MALTSTERS. WINE AND
SHEEP STREET, BURFORD,
Tucked away in this " Little Grey Town"
you will find
The Old-Fashioned Brewery, still
Brewing the old-fashioned Beer — made
from the FINEST ENGLISH MALT AND HOPS
fully matured in cask, and naturally
conditioned in bottle
The Old-Fashioned Wine Merchant
proud of his Stock of Wines, ready
to give you advice in your choice,
backed by knowledge and a full sense
of responsibility, and anxious to study
your palate and your purse
IF YOU VISIT THIS TOWN CALL AND INQUIRE
ABOUT OUR BEERS AND OUR WINES, OR—
WRITE FOR PRICE LIST.
We pay carriage and postage on all orders
(bottled Beers excepted).
JOHN R. FOSTER, mimt.
THE PIONEER GARAGE IN
Repairs executed under
FIRST - CLASS CAR FOR
Page Thirty -two
8C SONS LTD.
Builders 8C Contractors
SPEC I A LIS TS IN THE
RESTORATION OF OLD
BUILDINGS — AND
BUILDINGS OF INTEREST
Garden Work. Lead Work.
Garden Ornaments. Plumbing.
Sanitation. Decorative Stonework.
Milton - under - Wychwood
Telephone: SHIPTON - UNDER -WYCHWOOD 2.
Examples of works carried out can be seen at Shipton
Court, Chastleton House, Burford Priory, Sudeley
Castle, Great Rissington Manor, and other houses in
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
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