sausages, No. 83.

N.B. These are nice dishes in the pease season.

Scotch Collops.(No. 517*.)

The veal must be cut the same as for cutlets, in pieces
about as big as a crown-piece ; flour them well, and fry them
of a light brown in fresh butter ; lay them in a stew-pan ;
dredge them over with flour, and then put in as much boiling
water as will well cover the veal ; pour this in by degrees,
shaking the stew-pan, and set it on the fire ; when it comes
to a boil, take off the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace,
and let it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour ;
lay them on a dish, and pour the gravy through a sieve over
them.

N.B. Lemon-juice and peel, wine, catchup, &c., are some-
times added ; add curry powder, No. 455, and you have curry
collops.

Veal Olives. (No. 518.

Cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal, half an inch
thick, and as long and square as you can ; flat them with a
chopper, and rub them over with an egg that has been beat
on a plate ; cut some fat bacon as thin as possible, the same
size as the veal ; lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of
the egg; make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt, No. 375, and
spread it very thin over the bacon ; roll up the olives tight,
rub them with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread-
crumbs ; put them on a lark-spit, and roast them at a brisk
fire : they will take three quarters of an hour.

Rump-steaks are sometimes dressed this way.

Mushroom sauce, brown (Nos. 305 or 306), or beef gravy
(No. 329). Vide chapter on sauces, &c.

Cold Calfs Head hashed. (No* 519.)
See Obs. to boiled calf's head, No. 10.

Calps Head hashed, or Ragout. (No. 520.) See No* 247,

Wash a calf's head, which, to make this dish in the best
style, should have the skin on, and boil it, see No. 10 ; boil
one half all but enough, so that it may be soon quite done






MADE DISHES, &(%

when put into the hash to warm, the other quite tender : from
this half take out the bones : score it superficially ; beat up
an egg ; put it over the head with a paste-brush, and strew
over it a little grated bread and lemon-peel, and thyme and
parsley, chopped very fine, or in powder, then bread-crumbs,
and put it in the Dutch oven to brown.

Cut the other half-head into handsome slices, and put it
into a stew-pan with a quart of gravy (No. 329), or turtle
sauce (No. 343), with forcemeat balls (Nos. 37G, 380), egg-
balls, a wine-glass of white wine, and some catchup, &c. ;
put in the meat ; let it warm together, and skim off the fat.

Peel the tongue, and send it up with the brains round it as
a side dish, as directed in No. 10 ; or beat them up in a basin
with a spoonful of flour, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel,
thyme, parsley, and a few leaves of very finely-minced sage ;
rub them well together in a mortar, with pepper, salt, and a
scrape of nutmeg; fry them (in little cakes) a very light
brown ; dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in
the middle ; and garnish with crisp, or curled rashers of bacon,
fried bread sippets (Nos. 319, 526, and 527), and the brain
cakes.

N.B. It is by far thft best way to make a side dish of the
tongue and brains, if you do send up a piece of bacon as a
companion for it, or garnish the tongue and brains with the
rashers of bacon and the forcemeat balls, both of which are
much better kept dry than when immersed in the gravy of the
ragout.

Obs.ln order to make what common cooks, who merely
cook for the eye, call a fine, large, handsome dishful, they
put in not only the eatable parts, but all the knots of gristle,
and lumps of fat, offal, &c. ; and when the grand gourmand
fancies he is helped as plentifully as he could wish, he often
finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot of lumps
of gristle, fat, &c.

We have seen a very elegant dish of the scalp only, sent to
table rolled up; it looks like a sucking pig.

Veal Cutlets broiled plain, or full-dressed. (No. 521.)

Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, one rib
to each ; broil them plain, or make some fine bread-crumbs :
mince a little parsley, and a very little eschalot, as small as-
possible ; put it into a clean stew-pan, with two ounces of
butter, and fiy it for a minute ; then put on a plate the yelks
of a couple of eggs ; mix the herbs, &c. with it, and season
it with pepper and salt : dip the cutlets into this mixture, and



MADE DISHES, &C. 323

i

then into the bread ; lay them on a gridiron over a clear slow
fire, till they are nicely browned on both sides ; they will
take about an hour : send up with them a few slices of ham
or bacon fried, or done in the Dutch oven. See Nos. 526 and
527, and half a pint of No. 343, or No. 356.

Knuckle of Veal, to ragotit.(No. 522.)

Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick ;
pepper, salt, and flour them ; fry them a light brown ; put the
trimmings into a stew-pan, with the bone broke in several
places ; an onion sliced, a head of celery, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and two blades of bruised mace : pour in warm water
enough to cover them about an inch ; cover the pot close, and
let it stew very gently for a couple of hours ; strain it, and
then thicken it with flour and butter ; put in a spoonful of
catchup, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon ; give it
a boil up, and strain into a clean stew-pan ; put in the meat,
make it hot, and serve up.

Obs. If celery is not to be had, use a carrot instead or
flavour it with celery-seed, or No. 409.

Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice. (No. 523.)

As boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very favourite relish
With the generality, cut off some steaks from it, which you
may dress as in the foregoing receipt, or No. 521, and leave
the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the day it is dressed.
Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and put it in a large
stew-pan with two quarts of water, an onion, two blades of
mace, and a tea-spoonful of salt : set it on a quick fire ; when
it boils, take off all the scum.

Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice ; put it into
the stew-pan with the meat, and let it stew very gently for
about two hours : put the meat, &c. in a deep dish, and the
rice round it.

Send up bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely
minced parsley and butter, No. 261.

MR. GAY'S Receipt to stew a Knuckle of Veal (No. 524.)

Take a knuckle of veal ;

You may buy it or steal :

In a few pieces cut it, ; .

In a stewing-pan put it ;

Salt, pepper, and mace,

Must season this knuckle ,
Th.en, what 's joined to a place*

With other herbs muckle ;

* Vulgo, salary,



324 MADE DISHES, tfcc.

That which kill'd King Will,*

And what never stands still j

Some sprigs of that bed,t

Where children are bred.

Which much you will mend, it'

Both spinach and endive,

And lettuce and beet,

With marigold meet.

Put no water at all,

For it maketh things small,

Which lest it should happen,

A close cover clap on ;

Put this pot of Wood's metal

In a boiling hot kettle ;

And there let it be,

(Mark the doctrine I teach,)
About, let me see,

Thrice as long as you preach, ij
So skimming the fat off,
Say grace with your hat off,
O ! then with what rapture
Wl it fill Dean and Chapter !

Slices of Ham or Bacon. (No. 526.)

Ham, or bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron over
a clear fire, or toasted with a fork: take care to slice it of the
same thickness in every part.

If you wish it curled, cut it in slices about two inches long
(if longer, the outside will be done too much before the inside
is done enough) ; roll it up, and put a little wooden skewer
through it: put it in a cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for
eight or ten minutes, turning it as it gets crisp.

This is considered the handsomest way of dressing bacon ;
but we like it best uncurled, because it is crisper, and more
equally done.

Obs. Slices of ham or bacon should not be more than half
a quarter of an inch thick, and will eat much more mellow
if soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then
dried in a cloth before they are broiled, &c.

Relishing Rashers of Bacon. (No. 527.)

If you have any cold bacon, you may make a very nice
dish of it by cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch
thick; grate some crust of bread, as directed for ham (see
No. 14), and powder them well with it on both sides ; lay the
rashers in a cheese-toaster, they will be browned on one side
in about three minutes, turn them and do the other.

* Supposed sorrel.

t This is by Dr. BENTLEV thought to be time, or thyme.

$ Parsley. Vide CHAMBERLAYNB.

$ Of this composition,- see the works of the copper-farthing dean-.

Which we suppose to be near four hours.



MADE DISHES, &C.

Obs. These are a delicious accompaniment to poached
oivfried Eggs : the bacon having been boiled* first, is tender
and mellow. They are an excellent garnish round veal
cutlets, or sweet-breads, or calfs-head hash, or green pease,
or beans, &c

Hashed Pennon. (No. 528.)

If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable
to any to warm it up in : if not, take some of the mutton
gravy (No. 347), or the bones and trimmings of the joint
(after you have cut off all the handsome slices you can to
make the hash) ; put these into some water, and stew them
gently for an hour; then put some butter into a stew-pan;
when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the
butter, and stir it well together ; add to it by degrees the
gravy you have been making of the trimmings, and some red
currant jelly ; give it a boil up; skim it; strain it through a
sieve, and it is ready to receive the venison : put it in, and
let it just get warm : if you let it boil, it will make the meat
hard.

Hashed Fare. (No. 529.)

Cut up the hare into pieces fit to help at table, and divide
the joints of the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready.

Put the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a
pint of water (there should be a pint of liquor), and a table-
spoonful of currant jelly, into a clean stew-pan, and let it
boil gently for a quarter of an hour : then strain it through a
sieve into a basin, and pour it back into the stew-pan ; now
flour the hare, put it into the gravy, and let it simmer very
gently till the hare is warm (about twenty minutes) ; cut the
stuffing into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about
five minutes before you serve it ; divide the head, and lay one
half on each side the dish.

For hare soup, see No. 241, mock hare, No. 66.*

Jugged Hare. (No. 529*.)

Wash it very nicely; cut it up into pieces proper to help
at table, and put them into a jugging-pot, or into a stone jar,f

* To boil bacon, see No. 13.

t Meat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without being immediately exposed
to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more generally^employed : it becomes
delicately tender, without being over-done, and the whole of the nourishment and
gravy is preserved. This, in chemical technicals, is called balneum mam, a water -

Ee



326 MADE DISHES, &C.

just sufficiently large to hold it well; put in some sweet
herbs, a roll or two of rind of a lemon, or a Seville orange,
and a fine large onion with five cloves stuck in it, and if
you wish to preserve the flavour of the hare, a quarter of a
pint of water ; if you are for a ragout, a quarter of a pint of
claret, or port wine, and the juice of a Seville orange, or
lemon : tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no
steam can escape ; put a little hay in the bottom of the sauce-
pan, in which place the jar, and pour in water till it reaches
within four inches of the top of the jar; let the water boil for
about three hours, according to the age and size of the hare
(take care it is not over-done, which is the general fault in all
made dishes, especially this), keeping it boiling all the time,
and fill up the pot as it boils away. When quite tender,
strain off the gravy clear from fat ; thicken it with flour, and
give it a boil up : lay the hare in a soup-dish, and pour the
gravy to it.

Ota. You may make a pudding the same as for roast hare
(see No. 397), and boil it in a cloth ; and when you dish up your
hare, cut it in slices, or make forcemeat balls of it, for garnish.
, For sauce, No. 346. Or,

1 A much easier and quicker, and more certain way of pro-
ceeding, is the following :

Prepare the hare the same as for jugging; put it into a
stew-pan with a few sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the
same of allspice and black pepper, two large onions, and a
roll of lemon-peel : cover it with water ; when it boils, skim
it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender (about two hours) ;
then take it up with a slice, and set it by the fire to keep hot
while you thicken the gravy ; take three ounces of butter,
and some flour; rub together; put in the gravy; stir it well,
and let it boil about ten minutes ; strain it through a sieve
over the hare, and it is ready.

Dressed Ducks, or Geese hashed. (No. 530.)

Cut an onion into small dice; put it into a stew-pan with
a bit of butter ; fry it, but do not let it get any colour ; put
as much boiling water into the stew-pan as will make sauce
for the hash ; thicken it with a little flour ; cut up the duck,
and put it into the sauce to warm ; do not let it boil ; season
it with pepper and salt, and catchup.

bath ; in culinary, bain-marie; which A. CHAPPKLLE, in his " Modern Cook,"8vo.
page 25, London, 1744, translates " Mary's bath." See note to No. 485.

MARY SMITH, in her " Complete Housekeeper," 1772, Bvo. pages 105 and 247,
translates " Sauce Robert," ROK-BOAT-SACCK ; an "omelette" alUMLXT ; and gives
you a receipt how to make " Soupe d la RAIN !"



MADE DISHES, &C 327

N.B. The legs of geese, &c. broiled, and laid on a oed of
apple sauce, are sent up for luncheon or supper. Or,]

Divide the duck into joints ; lay it by ready ; put the trim-
mings and stuffing into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of
broth or water; let it boil half an hour, and then rub it
through a sieve ; put half an ounce of butter into a stew-
pan ; as it melts, mix a table-spoonful of flour with it ; stir it
over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with it by
degrees ; as soon as it boils, take off the scum, and strain,
through a sieve into a stew-pan ; put in the duck, and let it
.stew very gently for ten or fifteen minutes, if the duck is
rather under-roasted : if there is any fat, skim it off: line the
dish you serve it up in with sippets of bread either fried or
toasted.

Ragouts of Poultry, Game, Pigeons, Rabbits, 4-c. (No. 530*.)

Half roast it, then stew it whole, or divide it into joints
and pieces proper to help at table, and put it into a stew-pan,
with a pint and a half of broth, or as much water, with any
trimmings or parings of meat you have, one large onion with
cloves stuck in it, twelve berries of allspice, the same of
black pepper, and a roll of lemon-peel ; when it boils, skim
it very clean ; let it simmer very gently for about an hour
and a quarter, if a duck or fowl longer if a larger bird ; then
strain off the liquor, and leave the ducks by the fire to keep
hot ; skim the fat off; put into a clean stew-pan two ounces
of butter; when it is hot stir in as much flour as will make
it of a stiff paste ; add the liquor by degrees ; let it boil up ;
put in a glass of port wine, and a little lemon-juice, and
simmer it ten minutes ; put the ducks, &c. into the dish, and
strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them.

Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried bread, No. 319.

O65. If the poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only
till just nicely tender, this will be an acceptable bonne
bouche to those who are fond of made dishes. The flavour
may be varied by adding catchup, curry powder, or any of
the flavoured vinegars.

This is an easily prepared side dish, especially when you
have a large dinner to dress ; and coming to table ready
carved saves a deal of time and trouble ; it is therefore an
excellent way of serving poultry, &c. for a large party. Or,

Roast or boil the poultry in the usual way ; then cut it up,
and pour over it a sufficient quantity of No. 305, or No. 339,
or No, 364, or No. $.



328 MADE DISHES, &C.

Stewed Giblets. (No. 531.)

Clean two sets of giblets (see receipt for giblet soup, No,
-244) ; put them into a saucepan, just cover them with cold
water, and set them on the fire ; when they boil, take off the
scum, and put in an onion, three cloves, or two blades of
mace, a few berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, and
half a tea-spoonful of salt ; cover the stew-pan close, and let
it simmer very gently till the giblets are quite tender : this
will take from one hour and a half to two and a half, ac-
cording to the age of the giblets ; the pinions will be done
first, and must then be taken out, and put in again to warm
when the gizzards are done : watch them that they do not
get too much done : take them out and thicken the sauce
with flour and butter ; let it boil half an hour, or till there
is just enough to eat with the giblets, and then strain it
through a tamis into a clean stew-pan; cut the giblets into
mouthfuls ; put them into the sauce with the juice of half a
lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup; pour the
whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of bread at the bottom.

Obs. Ox-tails prepared in the same way are excellent
eating.

Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit. (No. 533.)

Cut them into joints, put the trimmings into a stew-pan
with a quart of the broth they were boiled in, and a large onion
cut in four ; let it boil half an hour ; strain it through a sieve :
then put two table-spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it
* well by degrees with the hot broth ; set it on the fire to boil
up, then strain it through a fine sieve : wash out the stew-
pan, lay the poultry in it, and pour the gravy on it (through a
sieve) ; set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently (it
must not boil) for fifteen minutes ; five minutes before you
serve it up, cut the stuffing in slices, and put it in to warm,
then take it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish, and
put the poultry in the middle; carefully skim the fat off the
gravy, then shake it round well in the stew-pan, and pour
it to the hash.

N.B. You may garnish the dish with bread sippets lightly
toasted.

Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Ghicken.(No. 534.)

Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets
from the breasts, and put them into a stew-pan with the rest



MADE DISHES, &C. 329

of the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought,
with a pint of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, an
eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lemon, and a roll of
the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne ; thicken it
with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three
minutes, till the meat is warm. In the mean time score the
legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them
nicely brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled chicken.
Obs. Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yelks
of as many eggs, will be a great improvement to it.

To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or
Rabbit. (No. 535.)

Cut them in quarters, beat up an egg or two (according to
the quantity you dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and
pepper and salt, some parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs
of bread ; mix these well together, and cover the fowl, &c.
with this batter ; broil them, or put them in a Dutch oven, ov
have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fiy them a
light brown colour; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put
a large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and
pour the sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of
lemon and toasted bread. See No. 355.

Devil (No. 538.)

The gizzard and rump, or legs, &c. of a dressed turkey,
capon, or goose, or mutton or veal kidney, scored, peppered,
salted, and broiled, sent up for a relish, being made very hot,
has obtained the name of a " devil."

Obs. This is sometimes surrounded with No. 356, or a
sauce of thick melted butter or gravy, flavoured with catchup
(No. 439), essence of anchovy, or No. 434, eschalot wine
(No. 402), curry stuff. (No. 455, &c.) See turtle sauce (No.
343), or grill sauce (No. 355), which, as the palates of the
present day are adjusted, will perhaps please grands gour-
mands as well as "'veritable sauce d'Enfer."Vi&e School for
the Officers of the Mouth, p. 368, 18mo. London, 1682.

" Every man must have experienced, that when he has got deep into his third
bottle, his palate acquires a degree of torpidity, and his stomach is seized with ;t
certain craving, which seem to demand a stimulant to the powers of both. The
provocatives used on such occasions, an ungrateful world has combined to term

" The diables au feu d'enfer, or dry devils, xre usually composed of the broiled
legs and gizzards of poultry, fish-bones, or biscuits ; and, if pungency alone can
justify their appellation, never was title better deserved, for they are usually pre
pared without any other intention than to make them ' hot as their native element,'
and any one who can swallow them without tears in his eyes, need be under nu

E eS



330 MADE DISHES, &C.

apprehension of the pains of futurity. It is true, they answer tne purpose of exciting-
thirst ; but they excoriate the palate, vitiate its nicer powers of discrimination, and
pall the relish for the high flavour of good wine : in short, no man should venture
upon them whose throat is not paved with mosaic, unless they be seasoned by a
cook who can poise the pepper-box with as even a hand as a judge should the scales
of justice.

" It would be an insult to the understanding of our readers, to suppose them igno-
rant of the usual mode of treating common devils ; but we shall make no apology
tor giving the most minute instructions for the preparation of a gentler stimulant,
which, besides, possesses this advantage that it may be all done at the table, either
by yourself, or at least under your own immediate inspection.

" Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper, arid curry powder, with double
the quantity of powder of truffles: dissect, secundum artem, a brace of woodcocks
rather under-roasted, split the heads, subdivide the wings, &c. &c. and powder the
whole gently over with the mixture ; crush the trail and brains along with the yelk
of a hard-boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel of half a
lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients be brought to the consistence
of a fine paste : then add a table-spoonful of catchup, a full wine-glass of Madeira,
and the juice of two Seville oranges : throw this sauce, along with the birds, into a
silver stew-dish, to be neated with spirits of wine : cover close up, light the lamp,
and keep gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until the flesh has imbibed
the greater part of the liquid. When you have reason to suppose it is completely
saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad oil, stir all once more well together,
' put out the light, and then !' serve it round instantly ; for it is scarcely necessary
to say, that a devil should not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot.

" There is, however, one precaution to be used in eating it, to which we most
earnestly recommend the most particular attention ; and for want of Avhich, more
than one accident has occurred. It is not, as some people might suppose, to avoid
Bating too much of it (for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent) ; but
it is this: in order to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some portion of it
with your fingers ; and, as they thereby become impregnated with its flavour, if you
afterward chance to let them touch your tongue, you will infallibly lick them to the
bone, if you do not swallow them entire." See page 124, &c. of the entertaining
" Essays on Good Living."

Crusts of Bread for Cheese, 4>c. (No. 538.)

It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at
taverns a loaf entirely spoiled, by furious epicures paring on'
the crust to eat with cheese : to supply this, and to eat with
soups, &c. pull lightly into small pieces the crumb of a new
loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in a baking dish; set it in a
tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, and nicely browned,
or do them in a Dutch oven.

Toast and Cheese. (No. 539.)

" Happy the man that has each fortune tried,
To whom she much has giv'n, and much denied ;
With abstinence all delicates he' sees,
And can regale himself on toast and cheese."