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Writers' Program (U.S.). California.

Los Angeles; a guide to the city and its environs

. (page 31 of 52)


facilities, 4 horseshoe courts.

Lower Arroyo Park, 82^ acres, Linda Vista Bridge, S. to Busch Gardens;

large clubhouse, archery green and swings.

MacDonald Park, ij4 acres, N. Wilson Ave. and Mountain St., 6 swings and

2 horseshoe courts.

Memorial Park, 5^ acres, N. Raymond Ave. and Holly St., gas and wood

stoves, picnic tables for 200, amphitheatre seating 1,500.

Oak Grove Park, 334 acres, Oak Grove St. N. to Devil's Gate Dam; picnic

facilities for 900, cricket field.

Singer Park, 4 acres, St. John Ave. and California St., rose garden, benches.

Washington Park, 3 acres, N. El Molino Ave. and Washington St., picnic

facilities for 78, merry-go-round, 2 tightwires.

Friendship Forum, S. Arroyo Blvd. and La Loma Rd., wading pools, picnic

facilities.

La Casita del Arroyo (Sp., the little house of the gorge) (open; free; $5 for

use of parties or meetings, see Pasadena Park Board], 177 S. Arroyo Blvd.;

rustic stone-and-concrete clubhouse, large assembly room with fireplace, kitchen

and smaller rooms.

Annual Events: Pasadena Rose Tournament, Jan. i; Rose Bowl football
game between a Pacific coast team of distinction and a Southern or Eastern
team of like caliber, Jan. i ; Pasadena Flower Show, Busch Gardens, 3 days in
Apr. and Oct. (adm. 40$) ; Pasadena Kennel Club Show, Civic Auditorium,
Feb. and July (adm. $i).

PASADENA (alt. 850; 1930 pop. 81,864), a quiet and conserva-
tive residential city, lies 10 miles northeast of downtown Los Angeles
at the base of the San Gabriel Mountains which stand like a great
Spanish comb behind it. To the south and east are southern Califor-
nia's great citrus orchards. The curving Arroyo Seco (dry water-
course) terminates it rather abruptly on the west. In this section is
Orange Grove Avenue, "Millionaires' Row," with elaborate mansions
of heterogeneous design, a remnant of the iSQo's. Colorado Street, the
main thoroughfare, cuts across the city from east to west; at its inter-
section with Fair Oaks Avenue is the small business district, given over
largely to smart shops. North of Colorado Street are large and often
pretentious houses, extensive estates centering on great mansions, and
many massive resort hotels set far back on broad green terraces. Al-
though the per capita income of Pasadena tops that of any other city
in the country, shabby houses line dusty streets, many without sidewalks,
in a considerable area south of Colorado Street. In the spring of 1939
some 3,100 persons were on relief.

Dignified, reserved Pasadena is a city of many churches. Its well-bred
quiet is not broken by the whir of machinery. Indeed, many a retired
industrialist with a princely estate here has joined the local Chamber
of Commerce for the express purpose of preventing the development of
factories in the city or immediate vicinity. What little manufacture is
carried on is largely for the satisfaction of local needs. Staid and con-



256 LOS ANGELES

servative as it is, it is friendly to labor and allows notable latitude in the
exercise of rights of free speech and assembly; Upton Sinclair, veteran
advocate of socialism, founder of the Epic movement, has his home here.

The Tournament of Roses, inspired by the Carnival of Flowers
at Nice, France, breaks into Pasadena's traditional reserve each New
Year's Day. Instituted as a village festival to celebrate the midwinter
flowering season, the "Battle of Flowers" was first fought in 1890.
Celebrants bedecked horses and buggies with blossoms, had their pic-
tures taken and sent to the folks back home, and so publicized the event
that Pasadena has been called "the town that roses built." The festi-
val today is marked by a long parade of lavishly-decorated floats, each
bearing comely young girls, who pelt the onlookers with flowers. The
celebration was climaxed with a thundering chariot race up to 1902;
since 1916 the crowning feature has been the football game in the Rose
Bowl for the mythical national championship.

The site of Pasadena was once included in the old San Gabriel Mis-
sion territory (see Tour 3) ; it was part of the land called Rancho San
Pascual, said to have been given by the mission fathers to their aged
housekeeper in 1826, but formally granted by Governor Figueroa in
1835 to Juan Marine, a retired officer of the Spanish Army of Mexico,
who had meanwhile married the mission housekeeper. Marine's heir
squandered the land, and it was neglected by those to whom it passed
until in 1843 it became the property of Manuel Garfias, whose title
was validated by United States authorities after California's admission
to the Union in 1850. Presently the property was sold to Benjamin
D. ("Don Benito") Wilson, a Yankee who had come to Los Angeles
in 1841 with a party of trappers and was destined to leave his name
on many landmarks in the region a mountain, a lake, a trail, and an
avenue. Wilson and his associates passed deeds and options back and
forth among themselves with perplexing speed and intricacy. Finally,
in 1873, the unsold portion was divided between Wilson and Dr. John
S. Griffin, sometime chief medical officer of the U.S. Army in Cali-
fornia.

Meantime, the California Colony of Indiana had been organized
in Indianapolis by Dr. Thomas B. Elliott and friends, who wished
"to get where life is easy." D. M. Berry, their agent, visited the
Rancho San Pascual, and finding it suitable, paid Dr. Griffin $25,000
for his 4,OOO-acre tract. Known first as Indiana Colony, it adopted in
1875 the name of Pasadena, coined from a Chippewa phrase usually
translated as "crown of the valley." Although more than half the
population spoke only Spanish, and stores closed for a two-hour midday
siesta, the community soon felt the invigorating spirit of the pioneers.
The schoolhouse became a meeting place and forum; a village literary
society was formed and issued a magazine, the Reservoir, containing
"talent, wit and doggerel in amusing lots." Communication with Los
Angeles was established by stage; in 1880 the first citrus fair was held,
and the following year a large packing plant was built.

By 1882 the town had a doctor, a photographer, a paper route,



K&KZ&Z^^^



Recreation




TOURNAMENT OF ROSES PARADE, PASADENA



BATHING BEAUTY PARADE, VENICE MARDI GRAS





SURF BOARD RIDING, HERMOSA BEACH



L. A. County Chamber of Commerce



In man Company



BATHING SCENE AT LONG BEACH





\



L. A. Countv Chamber of Commerce
SAILING, ALAMITOS BAY



Santa Catalina Island

MARLIN SWORDFISH
(570 POUNDS), CATALINA









1\




V **



L. A. County Chamber of Commerce
ICE HOCKEY ON JACKSON LAKE, BIG PINES PARK



L. A. County Chamber of Commerce



TOBOGGANING IN BIG PINES PARK





4 *



L. A. County Chamber of Commerce



SKIING AT BIG PINES PARK



DOG SLED, ARROWHEAD LAKE



Lake Arrowhead Company




FISHING OFF THE PIER, SANTA MONICA



F. W. Carter



CARD PLAYERS IN THE PARK



Burton O, Bur*







'ftf. x;








Burton O. Burt

BOWLING ON THE GREEN, EXPOSITION PARK, LOS ANGELES



TENNIS COURTS, LA CIENEGA PLAYGROUND, BEVERLY HILLS

City of Beverly Hills




I 1




HOLLYWOOD PARK RACE TRACK, INGLEWOOD



Carroll Photo Service



Kopec Photo Company









AIRVIEW, ROSE BOWL, PASADENA




*s



.jf



^



*



m



H&ratf



PASADENA 257

and a community telephone in Barney Williams' general store. A
weekly newspaper, the Chronicle, appeared in 1883; it was printed
on the presses of the Times-Mirror in Los Angeles, and each week
type-forms were hauled back and forth on horses, which in floodtime
almost disappeared in the mud of the Arroyo Seco.

About 1885 many speculators, attracted by the general southern
California boom, poured into Pasadena. Brass bands paraded the
streets advertising tracts for sale; houses sprang up in orange groves
and vineyards; social life was gay and often noisy with the popping
of champagne corks and the rattle of poker chips; South Orange Grove
Avenue was widened and many mansions built. Pasadena was incorpo-
rated in 1886, in which year the Los Angeles and San Gabriel Valley
Railroad entered the city, precipitating a clash between Chinese and
white workers; the latter attacked and burned a Chinese laundry, to
the outrage of most citizens, who assembled in public meeting and
resolved that "no mob law be allowed in Pasadena."

By 1888 the boom had subsided. Subdivisions and citrus groves
were overrun with weeds. The population dwindled, bank deposits
shrank, and everyone appealed to the Board of Trade for aid. Gradu-
ally prosperity returned ; an irrigation system was extended to sur-
rounding dry lands. The early nineties saw the construction through
the city of the Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad, the Terminal
Railroad, and the beginning of construction of the cable railway up
Mount Lowe. The latter was advertised with the slogan "From
oranges to the snow." In 1891 Amos G. ("Father") Throop estab-
lished the polytechnic school that later grew into the California In-
stitute of Technology. By 1900 Pasadena had a population of 10,000.

The Mount Wilson Observatory (see Tour 1A) was established
in 1904. Civic improvements went steadily forward. Dr. Norman
Bridge, who had come to California for his health, remained to bestow
$300,000 on "Cal-Tech" for the erection of the Bridge Laboratory
of Physics and the Norman Bridge Library of Physics. In 1921 Henry
E. Huntington (see Tour 1) acquired Gainsborough's Blue Boy, the
Board of Trade changed its name to the Chamber of Commerce, and
building construction amounted to $7,000,000; Pasadena had definitely
arrived.

Building continued at a feverish pace throughout the 1920*5. Dur-
ing the depression building construction slackened, but the city, for the
most part, continued its leisurely and affluent ways, encouraging the arts
and sciences, discouraging industry and commerce, still reflecting the
spirit of the settlers who came here "to get where life is easy."

POINTS OF INTEREST

The CIVIC CENTER lies along Garfield Ave., between Green
St. on the south and Walnut St. on the north. This wide section of
Garfield Ave. has broad strips of park along its west side,
i. The buff-colored CITY HALL (open; apply at Rm. ng for adm.



258 LOS ANGELES

to tower), 100 N. Garfield Ave., designed by Bakewell and Brown,
dominates the Civic Center with its tower in four diminishing stages
with domes on the third and fourth. Wings project in the rear and
are connected by an arcade, forming a large patio. Small cupolas,
repeating the lines of the central dome, rise at the corners.

2. The PASADENA PUBLIC LIBRARY (open weekdays 9-9), 285
E. Walnut St., designed by Hunt and Chambers in 1925, is a long,
two-story, tile-roofed building of modified Spanish Colonial design.
Between forward wings is a forecourt surrounded by a loggia. In this
court are tall slender fan palms, three on each side of the main entrance.
The tile roof of the loggia is supported by frame columns reminiscent
of those in old Spanish buildings. Above the magnificent black metal
entrance doors are five arched windows. The library contains approxi-
mately 200,000 volumes, many rare books and works of art, and a
collection of phonograph records for circulation.

3. ALL SAINTS' EPISCOPAL CHURCH (open), 132 N. Euclid
Ave., is of late English Gothic design with a low, heavy, battlemented
tower. A cloister of delicate stone tracery at the rear of a landscaped
courtyard leads to parish buildings. The interior is finished in luminous
brown oak lighted by windows of richly colored glass.

4. The GRACE NICHOLSON ART GALLERY (open weekdays
9-4; free}, 30 N. Los Robles Ave., exhibits its collection of modern
American and European paintings and art objects in a reproduction of
a modern Chinese house, as much an exhibition piece as anything in it.
The heavily ornamented roof is of green enameled pantiles from an
old temple near Peking, with grotesque terra-cotta dogs and dragons
at the points of the roof. On each side of the main entrance a stone
arch with tracery is a great marble dog of the Ming dynasty, also
brought from near Peking.

5. The CIVIC AUDITORIUM (open Wed. 2-4), 300 E. Green
St., a two-story concrete building with Italian Renaissance decorative
motifs designed by Bergstrom, Bennett, and Haskell, has strong hori-
zontal lines emphasized by a low-pitched red tile hip roof with a wide
overhang at the eaves. Five upper-story windows in blind arches are
decorated at the top with scroll patterns on blue tile.

Inside the auditorium, running entirely around the walls, is a series
of panels on mythological Greek subjects adapted from drawings by
Raphael, done with cameo effect on a brick-red ground. Frescoes on
upper walls and ceiling carry out the theme of the panels. All were
done by John B. Smeraldi.

6. The PASADENA COMMUNITY PLAYHOUSE (open 9-4,
except during Sat. matinees}, 37 S. El Molino Ave., is housed in white
plaster buildings around a rough-flagged court. Gilmor Brown, mana-
ger of the present playhouse, brought a company of professional players
to the old Savoy Theatre in 1916, and after an unprofitable season
appealed to Pasadena's civic leaders to assist in reviving the drama. An
advisory committee of citizens assisted in organizing in 1918 the Pasa-
dena Community Playhouse Association as a non-profit corporation;







ANGELES CAL



POINTS OF INTEREST



1. City Hall

2. Public Library

3. All Saints' Episcopal Church

4. Grace Nicholson Art Gallery

5. Civic Auditorium

6. Pasadena Community Play-
house

7. California Institute of Tech-
nology

8. Huntington Hotel

9. The Old Mill



10. Busch Gardens

11. Colorado Street Bridge

12. Memorial Flagpole

13. California Graduate School of
Design

14. La Miniatura

15. Rose Bowl

1 6. Devil's Gate Dam

17. St. Elizabeth Catholic Church

18. Westminster Presbyterian
Church



26O LOS ANGELES

the present theatre was erected in 1924-25. The playhouse has a wide
repertoire and claims the distinction of having produced all of Shake-
speare's plays. A Midsummer Dramatic Festival has been an annual
event since 1935. More than 80 plays have had national or world
premieres here. Casts are chosen from among 1,000 associated players
and from the 200 students in the playhouse's School of the Theatre,
founded in 1928, which conducts a Laboratory Theatre for the staging
of plays by new authors.

7. The CALIFORNIA INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, 1201
E. California St., had its beginnings in a small vocational training
school called Throop Polytechnic Institute, founded in 1891 by Amos
G. Throop, onetime mayor of Pasadena. In 1910 it was moved to the
present campus and became the Throop College of Technology, the only
institution west of the Mississippi devoted exclusively to the training of
engineers. During the next decade the school enlisted the interest of
several nationally known scientists and educators, and the financial aid
of businessmen and philanthropists. In 1920 an executive council was
formed, and its chairmanship was assumed by Dr. Robert A. Millikan,
who is still president of the institute. In later years the name was
changed to the California Institute of Technology. Contributors to the
institute's endowment have included the Carnegie, Rockefeller, and
Guggenheim foundations. The Carnegie Institution of Washington
helps to maintain the Seismological Research Laboratory in the San
Rafael Hills, some three miles from the campus. The General Educa-
tional Board, an agency of the Rockefeller Foundation, supplied funds
for the erection of the institute's great 2OO-inch telescope and astrophys-
ical observatory on Palornar Mountain in San Diego County.

The enrollment is limited to approximately 800 by scholarship
standards. The teaching staff of 2OO includes men of national and
international reputation in their respective fields who were attracted
to "Cal-Tech" principally by the opportunities for research. Dr. Mil-
likan, director of the college's physics laboratory, won the 1923 Nobel
award in physics for his discoveries in cosmic ray radiation ; Dr. Thomas
Hunt Morgan, director of the biological division, won a Nobel prize
in 1923 for his studies in genetics; and Dr. Carl David Anderson, a
graduate, was awarded the 1936 Nobel prize in physics for his dis-
covery of the positron.

The older buildings on the 32-acre campus are Mediterranean in
style; the newer buildings are of functional design with plain geometri-
cal ornamentation, and are connected by loggias. To the left of the
main entrance, a wide approach from Wilson Avenue, are the KERCK-
HOFF BIOLOGICAL LABORATORIES, a long, low, cream-colored concrete
unit with an arcaded loggia along the front. The institute's marine
station at Corona del Mar supplies specimens for research work arid
laboratory classes. A lo-acre farm for studies in plant genetics is
maintained at Arcadia. Behind the MUDD and the ARMS GEOLOGICAL
LABORATORIES (R), which resemble the biological laboratories, is the
ASTROPHYSICS LABORATORY, whose staff works closely with those of



PASADENA 26l

the Palomar Mountain Observatory and the Mount Wilson Observa-
tory (see Tour 1A). Adjoining the Astrophysics Laboratory on the
west is CULBERTSON HALL, an auditorium.

Beyond the biological and geological laboratory groups, the approach
broadens into a large plaza. The GATES AND CRELLIN CHEMICAL
LABORATORY group (L) contains photographic dark-rooms, a glass-
blowing room, instrument and carpenter shops, and the chemistry li-
brary. The NORMAN BRIDGE LABORATORY OF PHYSICS (R) has many
special research laboratories, the general institute library, the engineer-
ing library, and the library of physics.

THROOP HALL, in the center of the campus facing west, houses the
administration offices and the engineering department. It follows the
design of the Carmel Mission near Monterey, having a low central
tower, and two lesser towers with open-arched imitation belfries.

DABNEY HALL OF THE HUMANITIES, left of Throop Hall, is a
three-story L-shaped building. Right of Throop Hall, in the east wing
of another L-shaped building, is the KELLOGG LABORATORY O.F RADIA-
TION, equipped for high-potential X-ray work; it contains the famous
"atom smasher," Dr. C. C. Lauritsen's high-potential X-ray tube. The
HIGH-POTENTIAL RESEARCH LABORATORY is the main unit of this
building. A sculpture over the door represents a dynamo tended by two
Titans. This laboratory is equipped for the study of problems of elec-
trical transmission at high potentials, and problems in the structure of
matter and the nature of radiation. To the east is the ASTROPHYSICS
MACHINE SHOP, where new astronomical instruments are being de-
veloped for use in the Palomar Mountain Observatory. In this
building machines for grinding the 2OO-inch reflector for the giant tele-
scope were built. The OPTICAL SHOP, east of the Astrophysics Ma-
chine Shop, has equipment for grinding the telescope mirror, and its
accessory mirrors.

The GUGGENHEIM AERONAUTICAL LABORATORY, a plain three-
story building north of the Astrophysics Machine Shop, contains a IO
foot high-speed wind tunnel, an aerodynamics department with several
small wind tunnels and auxiliary apparatus, a woodshop large enough
for the building of complete airplanes, and the aeronautical library.

TOURNAMENT PARK (free), SW corner of E. California St.
and S. Wilson Ave., is a large shady common with athletic fields and
picnic facilities; here the Tournament of Roses parade ends each New
Year's Day. The afternoon sports of the Rose Tournament were held
here every year from 1890 to 1923, the year in which the Rose Bowl
was completed.

8. The HUNTINGTON HOTEL, intersection of Oak Knoll and
Wentworth Aves., from which it is reached by a long driveway, is a
rambling six-story building built in 1906 by the late Henry E. Hunting-
ton (see Pueblo to Metropolis). At the rear of the hotel is the slender,
covered PICTURE BRIDGE, hung with wistaria, spanning a garden with
lily ponds and a swimming pool; within the bridge are hung paintings
of California scenery.



262 LOS ANGELES

9. The OLD MILL (private), 1120 Old Mill Rd., a rough vine-
mantled adobe on a hillside under a few lacy shade trees, is a much
restored and renovated mill built first under the direction of Father
Zalvidea of the San Gabriel Mission in 1812. The upper part of the
building housed the two grinding stones; a large lower room on the
east side was divided into two wheel chambers, through which water
ran, to be discharged through two large arches still seen in the lower
east wall. The mill has been twice restored, but the basic construction,
much of the old adobe, many of the roof tiles, and parts of the old brick
floor remain. The reveals of door and windows still bear the original
oxblood coloring. A hitching-block made of two old millstones stands
in the front yard.

The ARROYO SECO (dry watercourse) is a wide-spreading
gorge choked with blue-green shrubbery, which runs from the San
Gabriel Mountains along the base of the San Rafael Hills to the Los
Angeles River in Los Angeles. A narrow stream, dry in summer but
swollen occasionally to flood proportions in the winter rainy season,
twists along the arroyo bottom. Parts of the arroyo have been made
into public parks, and it is proposed to improve the entire area. Local
laws protect wild life along the arroyo, and birds abound here.

10. The BUSCH GARDENS (open 9-5; adults 25$, children iof),
959 S. Arroyo Blvd., lie along the edge of the arroyo and descend its
banks to a lake graced by white swans and fed by rills that run down
the slope over many miniature waterfalls. Scattered about the gardens
are groups of terra-cotta figures representing scenes from such tales
as Hansel and Gretel, Little Red Riding Hood, and Cinderella. The
gardens, once part of the grounds surrounding the mansion of Adolphus
Busch (1830-1913), St. Louis brewer, are now administered by Pasa-
dena Post No. 13, of the American Legion, which uses admission fees
to maintain its disabled veterans' fund.

11. The COLORADO STREET BRIDGE sweeps into Pasadena
from the west in a majestic curve over the Arroyo Seco. It was not
built on a curve for purely ornamental purposes; at this point no suit-
able bedrock footings could be found for the construction of a straight
bridge. In 1937 the city stretched a fence topped with barbed wire
along the balustrade, thus ending the long series of deaths due to jumps
from the high parapet into the arroyo that in the I92o's led to the
structure's being known as "Suicide Bridge."

12. The MEMORIAL FLAGPOLE, W. Colorado St. and Orange
Grove Ave., erected in 1927, commemorates Pasadena's World War
dead. The flagstaff, more than 100 feet high, rises from a base bearing
bronze World War figures sculptured in high relief.

CARMELITA GARDEN (free), 425 W. Colorado St., now a
somewhat faded spot with lawn, trees and shrubs, was once the home
garden of Dr. Ezra Slocum Carr (1818-1894), author and educator.
John Muir brought to the garden many of the trees and shrubs grow-
ing here.

13. On the east end of the garden is the CALIFORNIA GRADU-



PASADENA 263

ATE SCHOOL OF DESIGN (open Mon. to Fri. 9-4, Sat. 9-12;
free lectures and exhibitions at irregular intervals}, which is housed
in a two-story multigabled frame building. The school teaches modern
industrial design and awards the degree of Master of Arts.

A 4,52O-seat grandstand, facing Colorado Street, is set up on the
south side of Carmelita Garden every year in preparation for the
annual Tournament of Roses parade on New Year's Day. The of-
ficial reviewing stand and the starting point of the parade are at the
nearby intersection of Colorado Street and Orange Grove Avenue.
Each year the stands are taken apart after the parade and the pieces
stored.

14. LA MINIATURA, 645 Prospect Crescent, a studio-residence
built for Mrs. George Madison Millard in 1923, was the first of the
concrete-block houses designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. The architect
describes the house as a "genuine expression of California in terms of
modern industry and American life ... an interpretation of her
[Mrs. Millard's] career as a book collector, something that belongs to
the ground on which it stands."

The two-story house, framed by eucalyptus trees, is reflected in a
pool in the sunken gardens. The house has double walls to provide
insulation against heat, cold, dampness, and fire. The concrete bricks
are stamped with a radial cross design which here and there becomes
fenestration.

BROOKSIDE PARK, Arroyo Seco between Holly St. and Devil's
Gate Dam, is a 521 -acre playground containing the Rose Bowl and the



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