dine-and-dance sign set incongruously over the deeply recessed door in the
adobe wall. A giant grapevine growing in the patio, sometimes erroneously
referred to as the Mother Grapevine in California, was brought here from a
canyon in the San Gabriel Mountains in 1861.
LAS TUNAS ADOBE (the cactus house), 308 Mission Dr., an L-shaped lo-room
structure (private) standing among luxuriant vegetation on a remnant of the
once-vast Rancho Las Tunas, was built early in 1776 as living quarters for the
padres while the mission building was under construction. In 1805, 400 orange
seedlings brought from Mexico were planted in the garden the first in Cali-
fornia. None of them remains. After the adobe passed out of mission control
in 1846, various private owner-occupants enlarged it and modernized the
interior.
The MAY PLACE (private), 725 W. Carmelita St., a gray one-story house
with a red tar-paper roof and purple chimney, is the only one of the 19th-
century group of San Gabriel adobe houses that was built by an Easterner.
It was erected in 1851 by J. R. Everton, Los Angeles' first census taker.
The VIGARE ADOBE (private), 616 S. Ramona St., a long, generously pro-
portioned one-story building, with walls higher than those of the mission
period, is approached through an old-fashioned garden of orange trees, rose
bushes, and jasmine. A modern porch has replaced the old ground-level cor-
ridor. The house was built by a soldier of the mission guard.
LA CASA VIEJA DE LOPEZ (the old house of Lopez), 330 Santa Anita Ave.,
a low, one-story white structure (private), was one of the early auxiliary
buildings of the mission.
ROSEMEAD, 11.2 m. (287 alt., 8,121 pop.), a shopping and
distributing center for a poultry and rabbit raising, citrus and vegetable
growing district, was named for Leonard J. Rose, a cattleman and
vineyardist of the 1860*8, upon part of whose ranch the unincorporated
town stands.
EL MONTE (the mountain), 13.3 m. (290 alt., 4,746 pop.), is
the oldest American settlement in Los Angeles County. It grew up
around a trading post established in 1849 by Ira Thompson on the
Spanish Trail, which was an unofficial extension of the Santa Fe Trail.
The post did a thriving business since it was one of the few well-
watered camping grounds along this section of the route. The Spanish
Trail, sometimes erroneously called the Santa Fe Trail, surveyed in the
early 1820*5 for the benefit of American traders who wanted to tap the
rich Santa Fe market after it was freed from Spanish monopoly by
the Mexican Revolution, ran from the banks of the Missouri, in the
neighborhood of Independence, to Santa Fe, New Mexico. It devel-
oped slowly; because of the nature of the terrain between Santa Fe and
TOUR 3 325
Los Angeles, southern California could be reached with much less
difficulty by sea. A few hardy traders and trappers followed the route
in the 1 830*8. The first immigrants to use it were the 25 members of
the Rowland-Workman party, which set out from Independence in
1841. Few others followed their example until the gold rush began
and even then the route was not particularly popular. Traders and
immigrants alike often celebrated the end of the difficult journey here
and El Monte was known as a tough frontier town until completion
of the first transcontinental railroad in 1869 diverted overland traffic
to central California.
Resembling an African stockade with its spiked-pole fence and
bamboo thickets, GAY'S LION FARM, 14.3 m. (open daily except Mon.
10-5 ; adm. 25$), is the breeding farm and home of more than 200
African lions. Many of the animals raised here are trained for cir-
cuses, zoos, amusement parks, and motion-picture studios.
The route crosses the SAN GABRIEL RIVER, 15.5 m., beside which,
the Caspar de Portola Expedition camped on July 30, 1769 (see The
Historical Background).
BASSETT, 15.9 m. (296 alt., 216 pop.), is a Puente Valley ship-
ping point for oranges, lemons, walnuts, and vegetables.
Southeast of Bassett walnut and citrus groves stretch along the high-
way (L) in an almost unbroken wall of green foliage. The two-mile-
wide plain (R) extending from the highway at 16 m. to the PUENTE
HILLS is prairie, broken here and there by small tracts planted with
vegetables.
At 18.9 m. is the junction with Central Ave.
Right on Central Ave. 0.2 m. to a private road; L. here to the WORKMAN
HOMESTEAD, 0.4 m. (adm. by arrangement with caretaker), a two-story building
whose first story was built in 1844 by William Workman, joint owner with
John Rowland of the 48,ooo-acre Rancho de la Puente (ranch of the bridge).
Workman, a keen-eyed, thin-lipped Englishman who has been described as
"hard-boiled and stern," was a member of a wagon-train party led by John
Rowland over the Spanish Trail in 1841. Rowland immediately secured
the vast land grant from the Mexican Government and, eager to have a
white neighbor near by, offered Workman, his former business associate, half
the rancho land if he would build a home and settle here. Each built an
adobe house near San Jose Creek, about a quarter-mile apart; only Workman's
remains, crowning a knoll within the shadow of his grandson's baronial man-
sion. The addition of a second floor to the original one-story adobe was
made in 1871 by Francisco P. F. Temple, Workman's son-in-law, called
Templito (little Temple). In the California financial panic of 1875 his in-
vestments crashed and E. J. "Lucky" Baldwin foreclosed on all of Temple's
ranches and town property, as well as the ranches of Workman, who had
mortgaged them to assist his son-in-law. In 1876 Workman died in the old
homestead, a broken man. In 1916, after he had rehabilitated the family pros-
perity by the discovery of oil in the Montebello Hills, Walter Temple, son
of Templito, regained the ancestral adobe and the 92 acres on which it stands
all that remained undivided of the original grant. After restoring the adobe
young Temple built TEMPLE MANSION in 1924. It has sixteen rooms and
three-foot-thick walls of adobe made on the grounds by Mexicans imported
especially for the job. Temple occupied the estate for six years. In 1931,
paralleling the experience of his grandfather a half-century before, he lost it
through foreclosure.
32b LOS ANGELES
The WORKMAN FAMILY CEMETERY, an iron-fenced, old-fashioned plot
established by William Workman in 1858, lies 300 yards southeast of the man-
sion. Simple headstones identify the graves of members of the Workman,
Rowland, and Temple families; between them are the unmarked graves of
many an Indian and Mexican retainer of the rancho's heyday. In the TEMPLE
MAUSOLEUM, built in 1923 by Walter Temple in memory of his wife and
grandfather, is the unmarked CRYPT OF Pio Pico, one-time wealthy southern
California ranchero and last Mexican Governor of California (see Tour 4)-
Pico died in greatly reduced circumstances in his Los Angeles home on
September n, 1894, at the age of 93. He was buried beside the body of his
wife in old Calvary Catholic Cemetery on Buena Vista Street (now North
Broadway). A quarter of a century later when the old cemetery was about
to give way to Los Angeles' building boom, no one claimed the remains of
the former governor and his wife, so Walter Temple volunteered.
PUENTE, 19.8 m. (329 alt., 2,200 pop.), is the shipping and
packing center for walnut and citrus growers in the southern end of
San Gabriel Valley, known locally as La Puente Valley. In Puente
are two citrus packing plants, a bean-cleaning establishment, and one
of the largest walnut packing plants in the United States.
The eastern end of SAN JOSE VALLEY is at 21 m. This nar-
row, natural corridor of rolling land bounded by the Puente Hills
(R) and the San Jose Hills (L) produces lemons, walnuts, and
oranges. Considerable acreage in the northwest part is devoted to
floriculture, particularly roses.
WALNUT, 23.7 m. (400 alt., 275 pop.), is a rail shipping point
for the San Jose Valley's walnut crop.
California produces 60 or 70 million merchantable pounds of wal-
nuts annually, or 97 per cent of the total United States crop.
The Persian walnut, known to Americans as the English walnut,
was cultivated by the Romans; as Jupiter's acorn it was used by the
Persians as a medium of barter. From there, in more recent times, it
spread to China and southern Europe, and was brought to California
in 1769 by the Franciscan Fathers. Commercial walnut culture in
California began in 1867 when Joseph Sexton planted a sack of the
nuts near Santa Barbara.
The average walnut grove consists of about 20 acres, planted with
400 trees that yield 1,305 pounds to the acre.
Commercially all California-produced English walnuts fall in three
classes: soft shells, budded, and fancy varieties. The soft shells are
descendants of the trees planted by Sexton in 1867 and are produced
from seedling trees grown from soft-shell nuts. The budded walnut is
produced by grafting the bud of a bearing English walnut tree on a
California black walnut seedling. The fancy varieties are produced
by five kinds of trees: Concord, Eureka, Franquette, Mayette and
Payne, the stocks of which are imported from France.
Both blooms, the staminate (male) and the pistillate (female),
occur on the same tree. The male bloom is on a long catkin and is
about the size of the average man's forefinger. It carries an abundance
of light dusty yellow pollen. The female or fruiting blossom is in reality
an immature nut; it is about the size of a fingernail, is a waxen white
TOUR 3 327
color, and has two feathery branched stigmas that catch the pollen
carried from the male blooms by the breeze. After pollinization the
male withers away. A majority of the walnut trees in California
blossom in April and May.
Harvesting season begins in September and ends in November.
As a rule the grower harrows the ground around the trees and runs a
drag over it, leaving a smooth soft surface to receive the crop. At
maturity the nuts drop of their own accord. Some growers gather the
walnuts from the ground day by day; others at intervals of two or
three days. Nuts which do not fall are knocked down by shaking the
limbs with long hooked poles, or by men and boys who climb the trees
and shake the limbs.
After removal of the crop to a field house the few nuts which have
failed to rid themselves of the husks are cleaned by machine, then washed
in a large cylindrical drum to remove the juice of the crushed hulls.
After an ethylene gas treatment to hasten maturity of the hull, the
crop is placed in large trays in the sun, or in dehydrating machines for
drying.
The nuts are now ready for processing in the packing plants of the
marketing organization. Here they are weighed-in, sized, separated
as to quality, and placed in large bleaching drums, where stains left in
husking are removed. Again the product is sized and dried, then crack-
tested and branded with the trade name of the packing organization.
Printing machines stamp the trade mark on 30,000 pounds of nuts in
an eight-hour day.
The white stucco, red-tile-roofed buildings (R) of PACIFIC COJL-
ONY, 28.5 m. {open 9-1 1 and 1-4 Tues., Thurs. and Sun.), a state
home for the feeble-minded, are surrounded by more than 200 acres
of fruit orchards, vegetable gardens, and hayfields that are worked by
the inmates.
SPADRA, 28.7 m. (705 alt., 306 pop.), is a cluster of one-story
buildings around a general store. Here in the i86o's William (Uncle
Billy) Rubottom opened a tavern that soon became a station on the
Butterfield Stage Line. The settlement that developed about the tavern
was named for Spadra Bluffs, Arkansas, Uncle Billy's home town.
In Spadra is a junction with a private road.
Right here across Diamond Bar Ranch to CASA VEJAR, 1 m. (private).
Considered in its time the finest adobe in the entire region, this two-story
structure was built in 1855 by Ramon Vejar.
The PHILLIPS HOUSE (private), 31 m., a two-story mansard-
roofed, red-brick structure of 13 rooms, was built by Louis Phillips in
1866 when he acquired title to Rancho San Jose de Abajo. This was
the first brick house in Pomona Valley.
Rancho San Jose was granted in 1837 by Governor Alvarado to
Ygnacio Palomares and Ricardo Vejar of Los Angeles. By 1846 the
rancho was split into northern and southern sections. North Pomona,
La Verne, and parts of Pomona and Claremont (see Tour 2) were
328 LOS ANGELES
founded on lands of the upper rancho. The lower rancho spread over
San Jose and Puente Valleys, including the sites of Puente, Spadra, and
the western section of Pomona (see Tour 2).
At 31.1 m. is a junction with 2nd St.; R. on 2nd St., now the main
route.
POMONA, 32.5 m. (859 alt., 23,539 pop.) (see Tour 2).
Points of Interest: Christian Oak, Ganesha Park, Palomares Adobe, Cam-
phor Tree, Alvarado Adobe, Los Angeles County Fairgrounds, and others.
East (straight ahead) on 2nd St. to Garey Ave. ; R. on Garey
Ave. to 5th Ave.; L. on 5th Ave. (US 60).
At 36.3 m. is a junction with Central Ave.
Right here to CHINO, 3 m. (713 alt, 4,204 pop.), trade center for a fruit
and sugar beet-growing district in southwestern San Bernardino County. The
town was founded in 1887 when part of the Rancho del Chino was subdivided
into xo-acre farms around a mile-square townsite. The vaqueros herded the
cattle of Antonio Lugo here in the early i84o's, when the old Rancho Santa
Ana del Chino was granted. In 1843 Colonel Isaac Williams, a son-in-law,
bought Lugo's place and added it to his own holdings to form a ranch of
more than 35,000 acres, at that time the largest single Yankee holding in
southern California.
One of the skirmishes of the American conquest of California was fought
here in September 1846, when a company of American riflemen barricaded
themselves in the ranch house, but having exhausted their ammunition, were
forced to surrender. The more important Americans were held prisoners of
war until Los Angeles was retaken in 1847.
The Spanish word ch'ino is loosely translated as Chinese, but in provincial
Spanish may also mean curly-headed. According to one story Don Antonio
added del Chino to the ranch's name because his major-domo, a half-breed
Indian, had curly hair.
The CALIFORNIA STATE PRISON FOR FIRST OFFENDERS (L), 5.4 m., on a tract
of more than 2,000 acres between Edison St., Central, Euclid, and N. Robles
Aves., was begun in June 1938. Expected to be completed in the summer of
1941, it is designed to hold 2,100 first offenders and milder law violators, who
will be segregated here from the more hardened criminals at Folsom and
San Quentin Prisons. The completed plant, of 21 buildings, will have 14
dormitories of 52-bed capacity each, with one block of 400 cells for confinement
of the more difficult prisoners. An innovation is a proposed psychiatric hos-
pital for the care of prisoners who have been convicted after a plea of not
guilty by reason of insanity.
ONTARIO, 38.5 m. (979 alt., 14,197 pop.) (see Tour 2).
Points of Interest: Armstrong Nurseries, lemon and orange packing plants,
and others.
In Ontario is the junction with US 60 which follows California
Blvd. East (straight ahead) on California Blvd. (US 60).
In the eastern outskirts of Ontario, US 60 turns southeast through
the vineyards of San Bernardino County's grape and wine district
(see Tour 2).
MIRA LOMA, 46.8 m. (787 alt., 250 est. pop.), lies in the north-
west corner of Riverside County's most important grape-growing dis-
trict. The town, first named Wineville, assumed its present name in
1930.
TOUR 3 329
Mission Boulevard (US 60) crosses the SANTA ANA RIVER, 54.7
m., on a graceful concrete viaduct, flanked by pylons. Below the level
of the road is green FAIRMOUNT PARK (L), with its 4<>acre Lake
Evans; Mount Rubidoux (R) rises above the broken volcanic masses
that litter its flanks.
At 55.4 m. is a junction with Rubidoux Mountain Dr.
Right here (up-traffic only; road closed at 8 p.m.] up MOUNT RUBI-
DOUX (1,364 alt.), a volcanic formation rising 500 feet above the surrounding
country at Riverside's western entrance. The road, barely the width of an
automobile, winds through thickets of pine and oak, with prickly-pear cactus
forming a roadside border for much of the way.
The WORLD PEACE TOWER (always open), 2.1 m., was erected in 1925 by
neighbors and friends of Frank A. Miller (see below).
The summit of Mount Rubidoux, 2.3 m., is a narrow plateau, rimmed with
a natural parapet of boulders, with two slightly higher knolls terraced into
great stairways to seat worshippers during the annual Easter Sunrise Services.
On the highest crag is the SERRA CROSS, unveiled in 1907 by William Howard
Taft in honor of Junipero Serra, founder of the California missions. The
Serrano and Cahuilla Indians considered Rubidoux a sacred mountain and
used its summit as a meeting place for religious ceremonies. In 1909 the
first civic Easter sunrise service in southern California was held here, and
the services that followed annually thereafter soon became a model for those
of numerous other cities. Every Easter, hours before dawn, thousands of
persons climb the various footpaths, and motor cars inch slowly upward,
discharging passengers at the summit and descending the one-way road on the
opposite side. Mount Rubidoux was named for Louis Rubidoux, onetime owner
of Jurupa Rancho (see below).
RIVERSIDE, 56.6 m. (851 alt., 34,696 pop.), is the seat and
largest city of Riverside County, and second largest commercial center
of the southern California navel orange belt. A city of tree-shaded
boulevards, in its residential districts are some of the finest examples
of Spanish colonial and mission architecture in the state.
The site of Riverside was a part of the Jurupa Rancho, and be-
longed to San Gabriel Mission until 1833. Louis Rubidoux came to
California in the early 1840*5, and in 1847 bought more than 11,000
acres of Jurupa Rancho. A year before his death in 1869 Rubidoux
sold a large part of the rancho to Louis Prevost, a French nurseryman
and silk expert, who planted mulberry trees and attempted to found
a silk industry. Some of these trees are in Fairmount Park. The silk
venture expired with Prevost's death in 1869, and the rancho passed
to John W. North, of Knoxville, Tennessee, and his associates in the
Southern California Colony Association, who in 1870 laid out the
townsite of Jurupa later renamed Riverside for its site near the Santa
Ana River.
The architecture of the post office, city hall, public library, munic-
ipal auditorium, and other buildings grouped about the civic center,
at 7th and Orange Sts., reveals Spanish influences.
The RUMSEY INDIAN MUSEUM, in the basement of the City Hall,
7th and Orange Sts. (open daily except Sun. 12-4; free}, contains an
Aztec calendar stone and other Indian artifacts and relics gathered by
33O LOS ANGELES
the museum's founder and donor, Cornelius Earle Rumsey, local philan-
thropist.
The MISSION INN (oryan concerts), bounded by 6th and yth,
Main and Orange Sts., is a luxury hotel noted for its atmosphere, and
its collection of Spanish historical objects. The inn's several buildings
have numerous Spanish and Mexican features and are connected by
loggias, corridors, and solariums that enclose tropical patios. An ivy-
clad wall along 7th Street gives access to a courtyard lush with semi-
tropical trees and shrubs. Colored tile flower boxes line the edges of
the courtyard, a fountain from Cordoba, Spain, ornaments the center,
and every angle reveals arches, iron gates and grilled windows, statuary,
clock towers and belfries. In the courtyard is an adobe house, built in
!875 by Captain C. C. Miller and used by his wife to "take in
boarders."
In an addition to the inn completed in 1932, are the SAINT FRAN-
CIS CHAPEL with a golden Mexican altar and Tiffany windows; the
Rotonda Internacional, meeting place of the Institute of World Affairs ;
the Galeria; and the Oriental Court. Autographs of noted flyers are in-
scribed on the wing-shaped copper plaques of the Aviators' Shrine in
St. Francis courtyard.
Right from Riverside on State 18, a shorter alternate route to Corona that
follows Market St. and Magnolia Ave. The large eucalyptus and pepper trees
along the center strip of the double driveway were planted in 1876 by John
W. North, who named the street for the magnolias he had intended to plant
before he learned that they would cost $2 each and pepper or eucalyptus trees
only five cents apiece.
Low PARK (R) 2.6 m., bounded by Magnolia, Palm, and Luther Aves.,
contains a Friendship Grove symbolizing world friendship and peace.
In a small park area enclosed by an ornamental iron fence, stands the
PARENT NAVEL ORANGE TREE (R), 2.7 m., one of two planted in 1873 by Mrs.
Eliza Tibbets in her front yard at what is now 4374 Central Avenue. After
buds from the trees had been successfully planted the demand soon exceeded
the supply and a high barbed-wire fence was placed around the trees to
prevent buds being stolen. The first navel orange grove of record was that
of B. B. Barney, Brockton and Central Aves., across the street from the
Tibbets homestead. In the settlement of the Tibbets estate, one of the
original trees was given to Frank A. Miller, who transplanted it to the court-
yard of the Mission Inn in 1903. It died early in 1939. The other, presented
to the city of Riverside, and placed here in 1902, is some 12 feet tall and
still produces a normal orange crop. The State Experimental Citrus Station
cares for the tree and protects it with windbreaks and smudge pots.
On a 4o-acre campus, (L) between Jackson and Irving Sts., are the mission-
style buildings of the SHERMAN INDIAN INSTITUTE (open 8-4 during school
term}. The institution, established in Perris Valley in 1892 and moved here
in 1901, is named for James S. Sherman, Vice President of the United States
during the Taft administration.
The school is coeducational, and admits only students between the ages of
14 and 21 who are at least one-fourth Indian and are ready to enter the eighth
grade or high school. During 1931-32, there were more than a thousand
students belonging to 84 tribes, from 16 different states. Courses include
academic instruction, and training in 27 trades for the boys and in seven for
the girls. The students landscaped the grounds, built all but 12 of the build-
ings and work on the school's 2OO-acre farm.
At 13.9 m. is the junction with State 71 in Corona (see below).
TOUR 3 331
US 60 follows yth St. to Lemon St.; R. on Lemon to 8th St.
At 60.7 m. is a junction uniting US 60 with US 395.
The white stucco Spanish-type buildings of the STATE EXPERIMEN-
TAL CITRUS STATION (open 9-5; guides), 61.1 mi, which conducts
the only (1940) school of orange culture, occupies more than 700 acres
on the foothill slopes of the Box Springs Mountains. The station,
established by special legislative act in 1913, is operated in connection
with the College of Agriculture of the University of California at Los
Angeles, and provides information and advice to citrus growers. Fa-
cilities include a research library, laboratories, insectary, and glass and
lath culture houses. Students and investigators come here from many
parts of the world to study subtropical agriculture.
At 61.2 m. is the foot of the Box Springs Grade. A broad view
extends from the summit west over Riverside County and its checker-
board of navel orange groves, and south across the flat mesa land of
Alessandro Valley, which distantly merges into the broken plain of
Ferris Valley.
At 62.1 m. US 60 branches L. from US 395 ; R. on US 395.
MARCH FIELD (adm. by advance arrangement), 67 m., spreading
over more than 600 acres in Alessandro Valley, has been the headquar-
ters of the First Wing, G.H.A. Air Force, United States Army Air
Corps, since 1935 and center of the Air Defense Zone of n Western
States. Complementing the active flying units are a station force, photo-
graphic section, and ordnance, quartermaster, medical, finance, and wing
headquarters detachments.
March Field, established in 1918 as a flying school, was named for
Lieutenant Peyton C. March, Jr., a casualty of the World War.
From 1921 to 1927 it was on inactive status, and since 1931 when all
school activities were concentrated in Texas, it has been manned by
tactical units of the Army Air Corps.
South of March Field are Alessandro and Ferris Valleys, dun-gray
prairie lands, relieved at intervals by chicken and turkey ranches. In
the San Jacinto Mountains (L) the highest peak is MOUNT SAN
JACINTO (10,805 alt.) ; on the R. the mesa is broken by isolated buttes,
rising successively higher to the SANTA ANA MOUNTAINS on the west-