to describing their journeys — that was another problem. They were not
skilled with the eloquence of Othello to tell "of moving accident by flood
and field, of hair-breadth 'scapes," nor could they paint vivid sunsets
which "the multitudinous seas incarnadine." They used no flowery
language in describing their perils and ventures on many seas, but rather
furnished the raw material for others to work up into stirring tales.
The average record of the wanderers of Old Dartmouth reads something
like this :
"Remarks on Thursday, March 22, 1832. These 24 hours begins
with moderate winds and pleasant weather. Employed cutting in the
whales. At 4 p. m. finished. At 7 p. m. spoke Rosalie and got a large
whale. At 8 p. m. headed to the north with the main topsail aback for
the night. At daylight made sail, and commenced boiling. At 9 a. m.
saw sperm whales. Lowered the boats, got three whales. Latitude, by
observation, no° 28" n. longitude 123° w. So ends these 24 hours."
Nothing in these meagre records to show in picturesque detail the
tremendous activities, constant dangers, the picturesque incidents of voy-
ages which took these intrepid sailors around the world, and almost
from pole to pole. Nothing of mutinies, maroonings, fights with infuri-
ated whales, water spouts, storms, shipwrecks, desertions, adventures
with furious savages — all this is to be read between the lines and hinted
at by incidental reference. But their adventures have not lacked for
chroniclers. The actual participants in these adventures rarely wrote
books, yet they have furnished material for historian and fiction writers.
.Among the few books of travel written by New Bedford men is
Reuben Delano's "Wanderings and Adventures, Being a Narrative of
Twelve Years in a Whaleship," published in 1846 ; "The Arctic Rovings
or Adventures of a New Bedford Boy on Sea and Land," by D. W. Hall,
published in 1861 ; the well-known "Gam" by Captain Charles Henry
Robbins; "Life on the Ocean, or. Thirty-five Years at Sea," being the
personal adventures of the author, W. C. Paddock, 1893; "Brief Extracts
from the Journal of a Voyage Performed by the Whale Ship Mercury,"
by Stephen Curtis, Jr., 1844; "The Captive in Patagonia," by Benjamin
F. Bourne, of New Bedford, published in 1853 ; "Story of the Catalpa," and
the adventurous rescue of Irish prisoners, written by Z. W. Pease, editor
of "The Mercury." We must mention an account of the first small boat
voyage across the Atlantic, written by Mrs. Crapo, the title being
340 NEW BEDFORD
"Strange but True, the Life and Adventures of Captain T. Crapo and
Wife," published 1893. Joshua Slocum must not be forgotten, who wrote
his wonderful story, "Around the World in the Sloop Spray," published
in 1903. This has become almost a classic, and has proved of extreme
interest to young and old alike. Captain Slocum had previously written
"The Voyage of the Liberdade," in which vessel he had made a trip from
South America. This was published in 1894. It is a curious fact that
Captain Slocum, who had wandered the world over in a small boat, un-
accompanied, and through perils of every sea and every clime, should
finally have lost his life off the New England coast, practically in his
home waters.
A book entitled "Life in Feejee, or, Five Years Among the Canni-
bals, by a Lady," is said to have been written many years ago by a Mary
Wallis, the wife of a sea captain who sailed from New Bedford. The
book is regarded by those conversant with life in the south seas as being
the best picture of the real Fiji, and that her memory is still cherished
by the islanders is evidenced by the fact that her name is given to many
a little black baby.
One of the most noted of New Bedford's travelers was a native of
this city. Col. George Earl Church, who by his explorations and his scien-
tific work in South America acquired world fame in that continent and
in Europe, attaining the honor of a vice presidency in the Royal Geo-
graphical Society. Col. Church was chief engineer of the Argentine rail-
road, and a prolific writer on South American exploration and commer-
cial development, as well as on Mexican Revolutionary history.
The next division of our subject takes up biography. Two of the old-
time clergymen of New Bedford wrote biographies of some interest.
Mark Trafton, who was at the County Street Methodist Church, wrote
"Scenes in My Life," 1878. George L. Prentiss, about 1850 connected
with the Trinitarian Church, wrote a life of his wife, Elizabeth Payson
Prentiss. Mrs. Prentiss became a prolific writer of religious fiction, her
"Stepping Heavenward" being especially noteworthy.
Among the various biographies written by New Bedford people are
Mr. Crapo's "Memoir of John S. Brayton," Benjamin Rodman's "Memoir
of Joseph Grinnell," "The Autobiography of Joseph Bates," an Advent
minister who had more adventures than one usually associates with
clergymen of that denomination, a Life of George Fox entitled "Valiant
for Truth," written by Ruth Murray. "Biographical Sketches of the
Graduates of Yale College," a remarkably complete and accurate com-
pilation in six volumes, by Franklin B. Dexter, who was born in Fair-
haven, Daniel Ricketson and his friends, written by Walton and Anna
Ricketson, "Biography of Samuel Clemens," or Mark Twain, written by
Albert Bigelow Paine, a native of New Bedford, "From Bondage to
NEW BEDFORD 341
Freedom," written by Frederick Douglas, who lived in New Bedford for
a number of years immediately following his escape from slavery. J. N.
Morrison wrote "Memoirs of Robert Swain," and a concise history of the
French in America, entitled "Histoire de la Race Francaise," was written
by I'Abbe Magnan, published 1912. A book just appearing from the press
is "Memoranda written by William Rotch." Several New Bedford
people have been the subject of biography by writers from outside. John
S. C. Abbott, the historian of Napoleon, wrote a life of Elizabeth T.
Read. Abraham Shearman, the first New Bedford printer, was the sub-
ject of a biographical sketch by one of his family and recently published.
The life of Dr. William G. Eliot, Jr., was written by Mrs. Christopher
Eliot, his daughter-in-law. A sketch of Elder Daniel Hix was written by
S. M. Andrews.
As this section of New England was the birthplace of the early resi-
dents, and the home of the ancestors of most of the English speaking
colonists, it would be expected that New Bedford should have
valuable genealogical material, and that it should be written up by New
Bedford authors, and it is a fact that some valuable work has been done.
The history of the Rowland family, by Franklin Rowland, with the
title, "Genealogical and Biographical Ristory of Arthur, Renry, and John
Rowland and Their Descendants of the United States and Canada," is
constantly consulted.
The publication by the Free Public Library of "The Field Notes of
Benjamin Crane, Benjamin Hammond, and Samuel Smith" was a monu-
mental work, most ably edited by Alexander McLellen Goodspeed, who
prefaced the work with an interesting biography of Thomas Crane.
"Certain Comeoverers," or the history of the Crapo family, by Renry
Rowland Crapo, attracted wide attention by its valuable contributions to
family history and its unique style, which has given to a genealogical
work the value of being eminently readable.
William M. Emery has written important books on Maine genealogy
and history.
"The Narrative of Thomas Rathaway and His Family, Formerly of
New Bedford, Mass., with Incidents in the Life of Jemima Wilkinson,
and the Times in Which They Lived," by Mrs. William Rathaway, Jr.,
is also an interesting piece of writing, and is much sought after by
genealogical and historical students.
Ray Greene Ruling, formerly principal of the New Bedford High
School, wrote extensively on historical, geographical, and pedagogical
subjects.
The history of this section has been well covered in the volumes by
Daniel Ricketson, supplemented by the later writings of Anna and Wal-
ton Ricketson, the monumental history of New Bedford by Leonard B.
342 NEW BEDFORD
Ellis, the "Board of Trade History" by W. L. Sayer, and others, the "Cen-
tennial History of Fairhaven" by four joint authors. Of these histories
that by Mr. Ricketson is of great interest and throws a flood of light on
the early history of this section. The work of Leonard B. Ellis is very
comprehensive, and furnishes a detailed account of many of the incidents
and industries of New Bedford up to very recent times. This history is
also very well indexed.
"The Story of the Friends' Academy" was prepared by Thomas R.
Rodman. The writings of James B. Congdon abound in biographical
and historical notes, mostly in manuscript, but some were published.
The Old Dartmouth Bi-Centennial in 1864 with the addresses, espe-
cially the historical address by William W. Crapo, and the poem by
James B. Congdon, published in 1865, proved a fitting memorial of this
notable anniversary.
The history of the Nev^' Bedford Fire Department was well covered
by Leonard B. Ellis, while the story of the churches of New Bedford was
written by James S. Kelley.
Other New Bedford residents who have contributed to historical
research are notably Henry M. Dexter, Henry B. Worth, the accom-
plished secretary of our society, whose studies on colonial architecture
and on Nantucket history have been of great value, Rev. A. H. Quint, the
historian of a period of the Civil War, embraced in his book "Potomac
and the Rapidan ;" the accomplished historical student. Miss Anne Rus-
sell Wall, whose many historical lectures have been supplemented by
books and pamphlets on history and literature ; Dr. E. R. Tucker, who
wrote on New Bedford before 1800; Henry B. James, "Memories of the
Civil War," edited by Lucy M. James, 1898; Frederick E. Cushman,
"History of the 58th Regiment, Massachusetts Volunteers," 1865 ; W. C.
Macy of the old firm of Buckminster & Macy, who continued the story of
Nantucket from the narrative of his relative, Obed Macy ; Charles S. Kel-
ley, who has written on the New Bedford Protecting Society ; Edward
Denham, whose historical studies have extended over many years and who
made the index for the publication of the Maine Historical Society, con-
sidered one of the best indexes to historical work which was ever pre-
pared. J. Henry Lee, formerly of Fairhaven, pursued his genealogical
studies in England and this country with great precision and accuracy.
All these make a commendable list of New Bedford authors on genealogy
and of historical studies.
One other book we should not omit, an interesting document of the
early Friends, "Memoirs of Life and Experiences" of Sarah Tucker of
Dartmouth.
Among the latest writers is Frederick Wallingford Whitridge, the
New York financier, a native of New Bedford, who has written a book
NEW BEDFORD 343
entitled "One American's Opinion of the European War; an Answer to
Germany's Appeals."
Finally the publications of the Old Dartmouth Historical Society
now numbering 43 furnish a fund of information, much of which is not
elsewhere obtainable.
And what of fiction produced by New Bedford authors? George
Fox Tucker in several short stories, notably "The Quaker Town," has
vividly pictured life in the New Bedford of forty years ago. Others
of his stories have many references to this section. A book written
about twenty years ago by Wilder Dwight Quint, the son of Rev. A.
H. Quint, and who spent his early life in New Bedford, caused a good
deal of interest in this vicinity. The book was called "Miss Petti-
coats," and was written in collaboration with George Tilton Richard-
son. Rev. Weaker Mitchell, whose poems we have spoken of before,
wrote two or three novels after he entered the ministry. A. C. Swasey,
(Mrs. A. C. Field), the daughter of Dr. Swasey, published stories
in periodicals. Miss Frances Delano, of Fairhaven, has written two or
three juvenile stories of interest. Miss Adeline Trafton, a prolific novel
writer, was the daughter of Mark Trafton, who for many years was a
clergyman in this city, and Elizabeth Prentiss, the author of "Stepping
Heavenward," and other religious novels, was the wife of Rev. George
L. Prentiss, of the Trinitarian church. Mrs. Mary J. Taber has trans-
lated stories from the German, and has also contributed original matter
to periodicals. Albert Bigelow Paine, referred to above as the biographer
of Mark Twain, has written stories, many of them of great interest. He
has written some very attractive juvenile stories also, one of the most
]iopular being "The Arkansaw Bear." The most prolific writer is
Frederick W. Davis, who has written a multitude of novels under vari-
ous psuedonyms such as Nicholas Carter, Scott Campbell, etc. These
novels are written with amazing rapidity and have a very large client-
age of readers. Two of the titles may be mentioned, "Reaping the
Whirlwind," by Nicholas Carter, and "The Fate of Austin Craig," by
Scott Campbell.
The most promising of the present day novelists born in New Bed-
ford is William J. Hopkins, whose "The Clammer," first published in the
"Atlantic Monthly," revealed a literary stylist whose work gave promise
of exceedingly good results. His later publications have amply fulfilled
this expectation. Likewise, his Sandman stories for very young children
are most delightful and show the same keen analysis of child nature
which his mother had demonstrated in her works on psychology.
In "Moby Dick," by Herman Melville, is an interesting chapter on
the sailors' quarters in old New Bedford. "The Cruise of the Cachalot"
by Frank T. Bullen, pictures this city. "Miss Petticoats," just referred
344 NEW BEDFORD
to, is a story which has its scenes entirely in this immediate locahty.
Richard Harding Davis has referred to New Bedford and Fairhaven in
a number of his stories and books, one of the latest references being in
â– "The Log of the Jolly Polly.'' Kenneth Weeks, in a volume of sketches
called "Driftwood," has a very appreciative reference to the history of
iVew Bedford. Lady Emmeline S. Wortley, in her travels in the United
States published in 185 1, refers to her experiences here. George Fox
Tucker contributed to the "New England Magazine," an article on New
Bedford. An amazing item in the last edition of the "Encyclopedia
Britannica," makes interesting reading, although the accuracy of the
statement might be seriously questioned. The author of the article on
the whale fishery says, "Whenever practicable, the whales caught by the
vessels belonging to the great sperm whaling station at New Bedford
are towed into the harbor for flensing." The author must have had in
mind the painting by William A. Wall, which hangs on the walls of the
P.iblic Library, showing the sloops of the early days bringing in their
cargoes of blubber to trade with the Indians.
In bringing to an end this fragmentary paper on the writers of New-
Bedford, we can only say that though our search has revealed no rich
Argosies, freighted deep with learning, with eloquence, with stores of
accumulated wisdom, and a very few of the sharp-prowed clipper ships
ot brilliant satire and romance, yet the blunt nosed craft like our staunch
whalers have touched at various ports in their course, and always
have brought home useful cargoes, with occasional rich bales, and lumps
of ambergris. So it is very fair to say that even in its literary produc-
tions, the writers of New Bedford have lived up to the city motto, and
can say they too dispensed light.
CHAPTER XLIV.
The Story of Water Street and Other Old Streets.
By Elmore P. Haskins.
The town of Portsmouth in 1657, reduced the quantity of land
allotted to each of its citizens. It further discouraged the coming of
new settlers, by voting that nearly all the undivided land "be a perpetuall
comon to the town for ever." Six years before, 1652, thirty-six dwellers
in the town of Plymouth purchased nearly one hundred and forty square
miles of territory whose northern boundary was not far from this
crowded district. A stream of home makers from the island of Rhode
Island and elsewhere settled on this "goodly land." The Plymouth Col-
ony, by its persecution of the Quakers, enriched this settlement with the
names of Allen, Wing, Kirby, and Gifford. Six years later, in 1664, so
numerous had they become, that they were granted the rights and
privileges of a separate township by the Court of Plymouth
We pass over a period of nearly one hundred years, when on the west
side of the Acushnet river, in 1760, a little village was begun. We do not
know when the first vessel sailed down the river, past Palmer's Island,
out into the Atlantic in search of whales. Perhaps earlier than 1750. In
1760, the business on both sides of the river, of fitting the little whalers,
trying out the oil from the cargoes of blubber, was of considerable
magnitude. It became a problem, where to house the mechanics,
mariners, and laborers, who in increasing numbers, sought employment
on our shores, but the real estate men of that day were alive to the
situation. Elnathan Eldridge bought a six acre tract, not including
the oil works and ware house thereon, and named it Oxford. Noah
Allen purchased twenty acres farther down the river and called it Fair-
haven. These land developers knew the drawing power of a euphonious
name. Near Noah Allen's purchase also, there were oil works and a
store house. These large sections of land were divided into house lots
and ofifered for sale.
To further develop his growing business, and to meet the competi-
tion of his friendly rivals, Joseph Russell sold portions of his farm near
the river. It was easy to purchase land in Fairhaven, and that side of
the river, perhaps gave promise of greater prosperity. In December,
the month that Joseph Russell sold his first piece of land. Noah Allen
delivered the deeds of seven house lots to future home makers ; two
coopers, two mariners, two yeomen, one laborer, and a cordwainer or
shoemaker.
But these rapid sales sealed the future of the eastern bank, for, when,
in 1765, Joseph Rotch desired to transfer his whaling industry from
346 NEW BEDFORD
Nantucket to the mainland, he was unable to buy sufficient land in Fair-
haven for his purpose. He bought the famous ten acre tract in Bed-
ford Village, and our future was secure.
Let us consider a few dry facts relating to the acceptance of the
different parts of Water street. Before Joseph Russell sold his first
house lot "at the foot of my homestead farm," there was a path or way
along the shore. It ran close to the river at Commercial street, wound
over Prospect Hill, and to the Kempton Line. In 1764, William Mac-
om'ber purchased land on Joseph Russell's northern boundarj' on the
shore with "the privilege of passing at any time, and at all times in a
drift or bridle way by gates and bars to ye open way." The open way
is the present Union street. He bound his heirs and assigns "to main-
tain a good cart gate at ye said open way."
About 1764, Joseph Russell prepared a plan showing both sides of
Main street with cross streets well defined. The plan is lost, but Water
street from School to Madison streets is easily traced by deeds. Through
the efforts of Joseph Rotch, the connecting link from Lowden's line, a
few rods south of Union street to School street, was made. This com-
pleted a continuous road for all the owners of the land in the new
settlement. In 1769, the town of Dartmouth accepted this road or way,
from the purchase of Joseph Rotch, north of Union street to present
Aladison street, and Water street first became a public highway. We
learn from an old map of Joseph Pickens, surveyor, that not until 1788,
ten 3-ears after the town was destroyed by the British, Water street
was extended to Bridge or Middle street. There were serious difficulties
at the south ; two rope walks barred the way. It was opened from near
Griffin street to the Cove in 1825, but five years elapsed before the
obstructions were removed and the connecting link made. The line of
the shore was far west of Water street north of Middle street. Not un-
til 1840 was the extension made as far as North street.
The opening of Water street from North to Hillman was the cause
of the most exciting meeting in the history of the town. The record is
easily found, but it may be of interest to recall the public spirit exhibited
by the citizens of that day. Meetings were held twice daily for three
days. At the close of the sixth session there were three hundred and
fifty-two men present. The street was accepted, and the town voted to
release Samuel Rodman from his bond of two thousand dollars for
damages paid to George Howland, his opponent and co-owner in the
land. Fearing, however, that his fellow-townsmen might misconstrue
his action in accepting this release, prompted by his high sense of honor,
he paid the amount into the public treasury. The bounds of Water
street have since remained unchanged, except the widening of John
Lowden's right of way from Union street south to School street. Water
NEW BEDFORD 347
street is one hundred and thirty-seven years old. For one hundred and
thirty-seven years have the descendants of the Pilgrims, and a host of
men from every land and clime used this street as a public highway. Let
us glance at the surroundings where it began : —
In 1765, five houses, a blockmaker's shop and the buildings of
William Macomber, cordwainer, were all that marked "The Little Way."
'J'o the east, near the present Center street, was a small structure cover-
ing a few try pots. There were probably a few shops and other buildings
connected with the infant industry. This was Bedford Settlement in
1765-
Thirteen years later, when the Redcoats marched down Kmg street
to take revenge on Bedford Village for the ravages of its privateers,
they found Water street a hive of industry, a store-house of treasure.
It was lined with dwellings, stores, and shops. One of our historians,
Daniel Ricketson, furnishes us with a list of sixteen houses then on
Water street, of which ten were standing in 1846. Many of the twenty
shops, including the distillery, were there. These were the days of pod-
augers, goose-quill pens, and handmade nails; when painters ground
their lead between two stones. We marvel to-day at the amount and
quality of the work done in those early years. Men felled the trees in
the forest, made the tools, and built the ships that weathered the gales
for half a century. They built houses not only durable and strong, but
some of whose details are reproduced to-day as models of beauty. On
the water front they filled the land, made the streets, dug the wells, and
built the wharves.
The morning of September 5th, 1778, dawned on a Water street rich
with the results of enterprise and labors on land and sea for a decade.
It closed with many of its homes, its stores, its warehouses, its ships,
and even its wharves in ashes. The value of the property destroyed
was estimated at half a million. Even Joseph Russell, so the record
states, was stripped of nearly all his property, and Joseph Rotch left
the village. In a few years the war was over, the men of Bedford
Village, though broken in fortune, took heart again, and Water street
stirred with new endeavor. From 1820 to 1857 were the years of our
greatest financial gains; from 1785 to 1812 were the constructive years
that made the latter success a certainty. In these years, the wharves we
see to-day were located. Substantial buildings were built that were used
for purposes connected with the whaling until its decline. A glance
at the map of Elisha Leonard, shows the names of the purchasers and
dates of the purchase of different parcels of land from 1760 to 1815.
The greater portion of the farm of Joseph Russell, extending from a few
rods north of Union street nearly to Madison street and from County
street to the water, had at this date been conveyed. That portion of the
348 NEW BEDFORD
Kempton farm east of Foster street had also been sold to house lot
purchasers. The new owners were in many instances connected with
some branch of business on Water street. By this test, we are assured
of the prosperity on our money-gathering thoroughfare. Water street
has suffered in three wars; destroyed in 1778, prostrated in 1812, des-
poiled in i860.
The effects of the struggle of 1812 are described in Ellis's "History
of New Bedford." He writes : "Bedford Village was in a sad condition
when the second war with England was brought to a close. The wheels
of industry had long since ceased to move, and the fleets of vessels that