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Adventures in the Wilds of the United
States and British American Provinces

Charles Lanman










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TRYING HIS LUCK.



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ADVENTURES



WILDS OF THE UNITED STATES



§riti4 l^ttt^J^itan lr0ljinas.



BT

CHARLES LANMAN,

AirmOR OP ** IB3An P0> aCKHBB H0UB8," ** PBITATB LIFE OP DAKIBL WEBITEX," ETC., KTC.
tUiVSniATBS BY TSB AVTHOB AMD OSOAB BBBBAV.



■ Wltkou reilsttriiif Umm tklngl lij tin pen Uuj will iltdi mmj raprollutilj."— Ovu Piuibui.



WITH AN APPENDIX BY LIEUT. CAMPBELL HARDY.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. L



PHILADELPHIA.:

JOHN W. MOORE, No. 195 CHESTNUT STREET.

1856.



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.La7
•.I



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1S36, hj
JOHN W. MOORE,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern District of
Pennsylvania.



II. B. ASHMEAD, BOOK AND JOB PRINTER,
aBG&GR STREET ABOVE ELEVEITTH.



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PREFACE.



This work is composed of materials whicli I have gathered within
the last ten years, while performing occasional Tours into almost every
nook and corner of the United States, and the neighboring British
Provinces. It comprehends ample descriptions of the Valleys of the
Mississippi and St. Lawrence rivers, with the Basin of the Great
Lakes, the entire Mountain-Land overlooking our Atlantic seaboard,
and the Alluvial Region bordering on the Gulf of Mexico. It is
indeed a kind of Cyclopedia of American Scenery and Personal Ad-
venture, and of Traveling Incidents, calculated to exhibit the man-
ners and customs of our people, and interest the lovers of Natural
History and the various Arts of Sporting.

The several parts of the work, as they at present appear, were origi-
nally published in the journals and periodicals of the day, and sub-
sequently in as many small volumes, which were all very kindly
received by the public, both in this country and England. My chief
channel of communication, however, as a Tourist, has been the
National Intelligencer ; but I have also written occasionally for the
New York Observer^ the New York Express, the Southern Literary
Messengery and Bentlei/s Mcujazine, Among those who have been
my friends, and given me advice, and whose kindly offices I have
acknowledged in brief Dedicatory Epistles, now thrown aside, are
Messrs. Gales. & Seaton, Hon. George P. Marsh, Professor Joseph
Henry, William C. Bryant, Esq., Hon. John F. Crapipton, and

iv.1.CCGSG

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IV PREFACE.

Washington Irving, Esq. I mention these several names with pride
and thankfulness, and can only hope that the unpretending literary
career of their sometime pupil, will reflect no discredit upon their
teachings. With regard to Mr. Irving, I would say that his delightful
writings were the first to animate me with a natural, though in my
case a daring spirit of emulation, hut as I have, in the following
letters, his sanction for my folly, I am quite contented. The first
had reference to my traveling essays, as they were appearing at inter-
vals, and the second was in answer to a petition for advice on the pro-
priety of the present publication.



Sunny Side.

My Dear Sir : — I would not reply to your very obliging letter of
September 10 th, until I had time to read the volumes which accom-
panied it. This, from the pressure of various engagements, I have .
but just been able to do; and. I now return you thanks for the
delightful entertainment which your summer rambles have afforded
me. I do not see that I have any literary advice to give you,
excepting to keep on as you have begun. You seem to have the
happy, enjoyable humor of old Izaak Walton. I anticipate great
success, therefore, in your Essays on our American Fishes, and on
Angling, which I trust will give us still further scenes and adven-
tures on our great internal waters, depicted with the freshness and
graphic skill of your present volumes. In fact, the adventurous life
of the angler, amidst our wild scenery, on our vast lakes and rivers,
must furnish a Striking contrast to the quiet loiterings of the English
angler along the Trent or Dove; with country milk-maids to sing
madrigals to him, and a snug, decent country inn at night, where he
may sleep in sheets that 'have been laid in lavender.

With best wishes for your success, I am, my dear sir,
Very truly, your obliged

WASHINGTON IRVING. •



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PREFACE. V

Sunny Side.

My Dear Sir : — I am glad to learn that you intend to publish
your narrative and descriptive writings in a collected form. I have
read parts of them as they were published separately, and the great
pleasure derived from the perusal makes me desirous of having the
whole in my possession. They carry us into the fastnesses of our
mountains, the depths of our forests, the watery wilderness of our
lakes and rivers, giving us pictures of savage life and savage tribes,
Indian legends, fishing and hunting anecdotes, the adventures of
trappers and backwoodsmen; our whole arcanum, in short, of indi-
genous poetry and romance : to use a favorite phrase of the old dis-
coverers, " they lay open the secrets of the country to us."

I cannot but believe your work will be well received, and meet
with the wide circulation which it assuredly merits.

With best wishes for your success, I remain, my dear sir,
Yours, very truly,

WASHINGTON IRVING.



But another of the "Literary Fathers," who has honored me with
his friendly advice, is the Hon. Edward Everett, and, as I have his
permission for doing so, I trust my readers will excuse me. fo^ print-
ing the following letter :



Washington, February 19th, 1853.

Dear Sir : — ^I am much obliged to you for the copy of the English
edition of your life of Mr. Webster, kindly sent with your note of
yesterday.

I fully concur with the opinions expressed by Mr. Irving, on the
subject of a collective edition of your narrative and descriptive writ-
ings. Having, during nearly all the time since they began to appear,
been engaged in official duties, which have left me but little time for



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VI PREFACE.

general reading, I am not familiar with all of them ; but from what I
have read of them, and from Mr. Irving's emphatic and discriminat-
ing commendation, I am confident the series would be welcomed by a
large class of readers.

You have explored nooks in our scenery seldom visited; and
described forms of life and manners of which the greater portion of
our busy population are entirely ignorant. Topics of this kind,
thoiigh briefly sketched, are, or at least ought to be, in this country,
of far greater interest than the attempted descriptions of fashionable
life in Europe, which form the staple of those trashy works of fiction
constantly poured in upon us from abroad.

Wishing you much success in your proposed undertaking, I remain,

Very truly yours,

EDWARD EVERETT.



As to the concluding division of this work, it is proper that I
should make an explanatory remark. It was intended as a kind of
Sequel to the preceding Sketches, and consists of after records, the
majority of which might have been printed in the shape of letters,
when the notes for them were first collected, but were published in
the J^tional Intelligencer as Editorial Essays, whereby the frequent
use of the pronoun we is accounted for. The essays on the Game Fish
of the country were written at various periods of my angling expe-
rience, so that the reader will occasionally find in the body of the
work more full accounts of the fishing streams and their scenery than
in the sequel 3 while those who feel an interest in the Legendary Lore
of the Aborigines, are referred to the additional collection at the end
of the work. I also deem it proper to mention in this place, that
the first part was written in 1846, the second in 1847, the third in
1848, the fourth in 1851, the fifth in 1853, the sixth in 1853 and
1854, and the seventh from 1846 to 1856.

And now, on glancing over the pages of my manuscript, I am re-



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PRBPACB. Vn

minded of tbe many kind and agreeable people^ by wbom I bave been
entertained in my manifold journeys, or with wbom I bave sported in
tbe lonely wilderness; and to all of tbem would I send k wish for tbeir
prosperity and bappiness. From them, and from Nature, have I
gathered tbe staple of this work, and tbe secret of my success thus
far, I fancy to be, that I have always written from impulse, with an
honest intention, and in the hope of securing tbe approbation of those
only whose hearts beat in sympathy with my own.

One word more. Should some of tbe earlier passages of my present
publication appear, to tbe matured reader, to be somewhat too fanciful
in idea or expression, he will please remember that it is not manly
always to condemn the follies of youth ; — and I must add tbe con-
fession, that I would rather be wrong with tbe warm-hearted lover of
nature, than to be right with tbe cold-blooded critic.

Georffeioicrij D, (7., Summer o/1856.



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CONTENTS OP VOL. I.



Jl ^untmtr in % ^iUttnttss:



PAOB.



SAINT LOUIS, 1

THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER; 7

LEGEND OF THE ILLINOIS; 12

NAUVOO, 15

PRAIRIE DU CHIEN, 19

THE LEAD REGION, 25

THE ALPINE REGION, 29

RED WING VILLAGE, • 34

THE FALLS OF SAINT ANTHONY, . - - - 38

A RIDE ON HORSEBACK, 45

CROW WING, - - - 48

THE INDIAN TRADER, 55

SPIRIT LAKE, 59

LAKE WINNIPEG, 64

RED CEDAR LAKE, 69

ELK LAKE, 75

LEECH LAKE, - - - - 79

FISH OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI, - - . - 84

SANDT LAKE, 90

THE SAINT LOUIS RIVER, 94

LAKE SUPERIOR, 100



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CONTENTS,

THE VOYAGEUR, 110

THE COPPER REGION, 119

SAULT SAINT MARIE, 123

MACKINAW, 128

RECOLLECTIONS OP MICHIGAN, 132



Jl tor ttt % glilitr SaptMj:



THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS, 171

A SPRING DAY, 188

THE CORN PLANTING BEE, 196

LAKE HORICON, 200

THE SCAROON COUNTRY, 211

THE ADIRONDAC MOUNTAINS, - .- - - - 217

THE ADIRONDAC HUNTER, 229

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 238

THE GREEN AND WHITE MOUNTAINS, - - - 244

MONTREAL, 255

QUEBEC, 259

DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE, 265

THE SAGUENAY RIVER, 270

SALMON FISHING ADVENTURES, - - - - 278

SEAL HUNTING ON THE ST. LAWRENCE, - - - 288

THE ESQUIMAUX INDIANS OF LABRADOR, - . - - 293

THE HABITANS OF CANADA, 297

LAKE TIMISCOUTA, 301

THE ACADIANS, 305

DOWN THE MADAWASKA, .• - - 309

THE HERMIT OP AROOSTOOK, 312

THE RIVER ST. JOHN, - 325

THE PENOBSCOT RIVER, 329

MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND THE KENNEBEC RIVER, - - 333



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CONTENTS. xi

fetters fxm t\t ^Ile^nj flowntains:

DAHLONEOA, 343

TRIP TO TRACK ROCK, 351

VALLET OP NACOOCHEE, 355

CASCADE OF TUCCOAH, 360

THE FALLS OF TALLULAH, 364

THE HUNTER OF TALLULAH, ' 369

TRAIL MOUNTAIN, - - 374

DOWN THE OWASSA, 378

ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS, 384

THE LITTLE TENNESSEE, 392

SMOKY MOUNTAIN, 400

THE CHEROKEE INDIANS, 407

CHEROKEE CUSTOMS, 413

CHEROKEE CHARACTERS, 417

HICKORY NUT GAP, - - - 1 - - - 425

THE FRENCH BROAD RIVER, 431

BLACK MOUNTAIN, 438

THE CATAWBA COUNTRY, 445

THE MOUNTAINS AND THEIR PEOPLE, - - - 455

THE NAMELESS VALLEY, 460

THE VALLEY OF VIRGINIA, 467

MISCELLANEOUS NOTES, 472

%\t ^mxm tti tfee |0tomat:

ROMNEY, - - - 477

MOORFIEfiD, 484

THE HERMIT WOMAN OF THE ALLEGHANIES, - - 489

ACROSS THE ALLEGHANIES, - - - - - 495

THE CHEAT RIVER COUNTRY, 500

BUFFALO GLADE, - - - - - - - 505

THE CUMBERLAND REGION, 510



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ILLUSTRATIONS VOL. I.



TRYING HIS LUCK, Frontispiece.

LAKE PEPIN, - - - face page 30

BLUFFS OX LAKE SUPERIOR, - -' - - - « " 104

THE VOYAGEUR'S CAMP, " « 111

DUCK SHOOTING IN mCHIGAN, " -' 144

TIFE DEAD MOOSE. " * 234



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SUMMER IN THE WILDERNESS.



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ADVENTURES IN THE WILDS



WM $iiski wilfi ^niis| %mtnm ^rofees^



SAINT LOUIS-



The Rmr Qaeen, as Saint Louis is sometimes called, may
be looked upon as the threshhold leading to the wild and roman*
tic region of the Upper Mississippi, which is the Mecca of my
present pilgrimages. It was founded in the year seventeen
hundred and sixty-four, by .two Frenchmen, named Laclade
and Chouteau, who %ere accompanied by about thirty Creoles.
The^ first steamer which landed on this spot came from New
Orleans itf the year eighteen hundred aifl nineteen ; but the
number now belonging here is rated at three.hundred, many of
which are unsurpassed in speed and splendor of accommoda-
tions. The population of this city amounts to forty thousand
souls. It is elevated some eighty feet above the low-water
mark of the Mississippi, and from the river presents a hand»
some appearance. The old part of the town is inhabited by a
French population, and is in a dilapidated condition ; but the
more modem portion is distinguished for its handsome streets,
and tastefully built mansions and public buildinga. It might
be compared indeed, to a man with a French heart and Yankee
limbs ; and it is a singular circumstance that its geographical
position is within three hundred miles of the centre of North
1



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2 SAINT LOUIS.

America. Fronting the levee or landing-place are several
blocks of stone stores, which give an idea of the extensive busi-
ness transacted ' here. On one occasion I saw this wharfing
ground so completely crowded with merchandise of every pos-
sible variety, that travelers were compelled to walk from the
steamboats to the hotels. This city is the home market for all
the natural productions of a wilderness country extending in
different directions for thousands of miles, and watered by sev-
eral of the largest rivers in the world. Its growth, however,
has been somewhat retarded by the peculiar character of its
original inhabitants. The acknowledged wealth of many of its
leading men can only be equalled by their illiberality and want
of enterprise. But time is committing sad ravages among
these ancient citizens, for they are, from, age and infirmities,
almost daily dropping into the place of graves. Under the
benign influence of true American enterprise, this city is
rapidly becoming distinguished for its New England character,
in spite of the retarding cause alluded to above, and it pos-
sesses, to an uncommon degree, all the worthy qualities which
should belong to an enlightened and eminently prosperous city.
There is one unique feature connected with the River Queen,
which gives it, at times, a most romantic appearance. It is the
point whence must start all distant expeditions to the North
and West, and where the treasures of the wilderness are pre-
pared for re-shipmeift to the more distant markets of our own
and foreign countries. Here, during the spring and summer
months may often be seen caravans about to depart for' Cali-
fornia, Santa Fe, the Rocky Mountains, and Oregon, while the
sprightly step and sparkling eye will speak to you of the hopes
and anticipations which animate the various adventurers. At
one time, perhaps, may be seen a company of toil-worn trap-
pers entering the city, after the absence of months, far away
on the head waters of the Mississippi or Missouri rivers, where
they have hunted the beaver, the buffalo, the otter, the bear,
and the deer ; and as they steal away to their several homes,
from the door of the Fur Company, where they have just ren-
dered their account, it does the heart good to ponder on the
joys which will be brought into existence by the happy return.



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SAINT LOUIS. 8

And the Indians, from different nations, who often visit this
place, also add greatly to the picturesque appearance of its
streets. Summoned by curiosity, they congregate here in large
numbers, and while their gaudy trappings and painted faces
remind us of the strange wild life they lead, their prowling
propensities and downcast eyes inform us of the melancholy
fact, that they are the victims of a most heartless, though law-
ful oppression. And this remark, by the way, reminds me of
a living picture which I lately witnessed, and will briefly de-
scribe. It was the sunset hour, and I was returning from a
ride on the eastern bank of the great river. The western sky
was flooded with a saffron glow, in the midst of which floated
unnumbered cloud-islands, tinged with deepest gold. Under-
neath lay the beautiful city, with its church-spires uppointing
to the Christian's homot; then passed the rushing tide of the
Mississippi, ploughed by many a keel ; and in the foreground
was a woody bluff, on the brow of which sat a solitary Indian,
humming a strangely solemn song, as his white locks and eagle
plumes waved in the evening breeze. I asked no question of
the sorrowing dreamer, but pursued my way, pondering on the
cruel destiny which has power to make man a stranger and an
exile, on the very soil from which he sprang, and where repose
the ashes of his forgotten kindred.

Lover as I am of genuine art, it will not do for me to leave
this city, the sturdy child of a new and great empire, without
alluding to its treasures in this particular. The bright parti-
cular star, who uses the pencil here, is Charles Deas. He is a
young man who left New York about eight years ago, fSr the
purpose of studying his art in the wilds west of the Mississippi.
He makes this city his head-quarters, but annually spends a
few Ikioiiths amx)ng the Indian tribes, familiarizing himself with
their manners and customs, and he is honorably identifying
himself with the history 4lid scenery of a most interesting^or-
tion of the continent. The great charm^of his productions is
found in the strongly marked national character which they
bear. His collection of sketches is already very valuable.
The following are a few of the pictures which I saw in his
studio, which pleased me exceedingly. One, called the Indian



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4 SAINT LOTTIS.

Guide, represents an aged Indian riding in the evening twi-
light on a piebald horse, apparently musing upon the times of
old. The sentiment of such a painting is not to be described,
and can only be felt by the beholder who has a passion for the
wilderness. Another, Long Jake, is the literal portrait of a
celebrated character of the Rocky Mountains. He looks like
an untamed hawk, figures in a flaming red shirt, and is mounted
on a black stallion. He is supposed to be on the ridge of a
hill, and as the sky is blue, the figure stands out in the boldest
relief. Artistically speaking, this is a most daring effort of the
pencil, but the artist has decidedly triumphed. In a picture
called Setting out for the Mountains, Mr. Deas has represented
a species of American Cockney, who has made up his mind to
visit the Rocky Mountains. He is mounted on a bob-tailed,
saucy-looking pony, and completely loaded down with cloth-
ing, pistols, guns, and ammunition. He -is accompanied by a
few covered wagons, a jolly servant to be his right-hand man,
and two dogs, which are frolicking on the prairie ahead, and
while the man directs the attention of his master to some game,
the latter shrugs his feeble shoulders, seems to think this mode
of traveling exceedingly fatiguing, and personifies the latter
end of a misspent life. You imagine that a few months have
elapsed, and, turning to another picture, you behold our hero
returning from the mountains. Exposure and hardships have
transformed him into a superb looking fellow, and he is now
full of life and buoyancy, and riding with the most perfect ele-
gance and ease a famous steed of the prairies. The wagons,
servsAit and dogs, are now in the rear of our adventurer, who,
comically dressed with nothing but a cap, a calico shirt, and
pair of buckskin pantaloons, is dashing ahead, fearless of every
danger that may happen to cross his path. •These pictures
completely epitomize a personal revolution which is constantly
taV^g place on the frontiers. One#f our artist's more ambi-
tious productions, represents the daring feat of Captain Walker,
during a recent memorable battle in Mexico. The story is
that the captain, who happened to be alone on a plain, had his
horse killed from under him, and was himself wounded in the
leg. Supposing, as was the case, that the Mexican savage



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SAINT LOUIS. 5

would approach to take his scAp, he feigned himself dead, as
he lay upon his horse, and as his enemy was about to butcher
him, he fired and killed the rascal on the spot, and seizing the
reins of his enemy's horse, he mounted him and rode into his
own camp. In the picture. Walker is in the act of firing.
But the painting upon which Mr. Deas's fame will probably
rest, contains a large number of figures, and represents the
heroism of Captain George Clarke, who, when about to be mur-
dered by a council of Indians at North Bend, threw the war-
belt in the midst of the savages, with a defying shout, and
overwhelmed them with astonishment, thereby saving his own
life and those of his companions. This picture is true to his-
tory in ewry particular, and full of expression.