Alice Morse Earle.

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WOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE

SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND



THE GIFT OF



HENRY W. SAGE




Cornell University
Library



The original of tiiis book is in
tine Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.



http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924101524480



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Two Centuries of Costume
in America



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^WO CENTURIES
OF COSTUME
IN AMERICA

A-IDCXX— MDCCCXX



BY



ALICE MORSE EARLE

AUTHOR OF "SUN-DIALS AND ROSES OF YESTERDAY"
"OLD TIME GARDENS," ETC.



VOLUME II



New J^ork
The Macmillan Company

London: Macmillan & Co., Ltd.

Nineteen Hundred and Three. All righti reierijed



Copyright, 1903,
Bv THE MACMILLAN COMPANY.



Set up, elcctrot^'ped. and published November, 1903,



J. s. Cuatiini^i^; Co. — lirTWhk i Smith Co.
Nurwuud, .Miiss., I .S.A.



Contents

VOL. 11



XV. The Provincial Governors

XVI. Nightgowns and Nightrails; Ban

VANS AND Turbans

XVII. Two Masculine Vanities — Muffs
AND Ear-rings

XVIII. Mid-century Modes

XIX. Woman's Hair

XX. Commodes, Mobs, and Pinners

XXI. Hats, Bonnets, and Calashes .

XXII. The Pocket ....

XXIII. Dress of the Quaker

XXIV. The History of the Riding-habit
XXV. Bridal Dress ....

XXVI. Mourning Attire

XXVII. Fashion Dolls and Fashion-plates

XXVIII. Armor, Arms, and Uniforms .

XXIX. Dress during the Revolution .



3«9

427

445
459
503
533
565
583

595
6.3
629
647
661
683

703



VI



Contents



CHAPTER



XXX. F'iRST Years of National Life . 731

XXXI. The Turn of the Century . . 743

XXXU. The Evolution of Pantaloons and

Pantalets . . . . .761

XXXIII. Empire Fashions . . . .781

XXXIV. The Romance of Old Clothes . 795

Index 809



List of Illustrations

In Volume II

Captain William RickettSj Wife, and Infant Daugh-
ter ......... Frontispiece

This is an unusual example, not only of the genius of Gains-
borough, but of the charm of youth. The complacent boy-father
in officer's blue and buff, so satisfied with himself, so proud of the
pretty girlish mother, all in pale blue and white, like a sunny sum-
mer sky; vain, too, of his chubby, dark-haired baby, so much
more sturdy than either parent; the very essence and spirit of
youth seems painted in these three figures. This portrait has had
the quietest, the most secluded of histories; it has never left the
family of its first owner. No account, or even notice, of it has
been printed. The wife was Sarah Livingstone, daughter of Van
Brugh Livingstone, of New York. The little daughter grew up and
married William Palmer, of England. The portrait is now owned
by Mrs. Angela Turner Toland, of Washington, D.C.

Governor William Burnet, Provincial Governor of
New York and of Massachusetts .... 392

William Byrd, of Westover on the James, Va. . . 395
Born, 1674; died, 1744. He was the author of the valuable Byrd
Papers, A Jourjiey to the Mines, etc. This portrait hangs now at
Lower Brandon on the James. The copy in Richmond, Va., has
had legs and feet added — not to the advantage of the portrait.

Phillis Wheatley . 399

Born, in Africa, 1735; died, in Boston, 1794. She was a servant
in the Wheatley family, and after she became the author of some
much-admired verse, she was therefrom a social lion in little pro-
vincial Boston.

James Bowdoin ....... facing 402

Born, in Boston, Mass., 1727; died, in Boston, in 1790. He was
therefore just of age when this fine portrait was painted, by Robert
Feke, in 1748. He became governor of Massachusetts in 17S6;
and he founded Bowdoin College in Brunswick, Me. This portrait
hangs in the Walker Art Building of Bowdoin College. The coat
is of rich claret-colored velvet. The waistcoat, gold colored with
embossed velvet border.

Coat and Waistcoat 403

This was the dress wear of ofiticers in the English Navy, 1750.
vii



VIU



List of Illustrations



General Samuel Waldo facing 404

General in the Massachusetts Colonial Mihtia. This portrait is
believed to be by Smvbert. It hangs in the Walker Art Building
of Bowdoin College, Brunswick, Me. Coat and breeches of blown
velvet, satin waistcoat of yellow, embroidered with gold.

Weddixg Waistcoat of Blue Uncut Velvet. 1704 . 409

Embroidered Waistcoats 4'i

These four white satin waistcoats were part of the finery of Hon.
James Bowdoin in 1805 at the court of Napoleon. They are
superbly embroidered in gold, silver, and colors — one with hang-
ing sequins, like Turkish embroidery.

Front and Back of Coat worn by Governor James
Bowdoin at the French Court . . . following 414

This superb plum-colored velvet coat is embroidered in gold,
silver, and shades of purplish pink. It is now in the Boston
Museum of Fine Arts.

Business Suit 417

Worn by Dr. Edward Holyoke, Salem, Mass. He was a well-
known citizen who was born in 1729, died in 1829. Copper-
colored cloth coat, white cloth waistcoat and knee breeches,
silver-plated buttons. Ou'ned by his kinswoman. Miss Susan W.
Osgood, of Salem, Mass.

Court Suit of General Tho.mas Pinckney . facing 420

First Minister from the United States to the Court of St. James,
1792. This is of plum-colored brocaded silk eml^roidered in
lighter plum shades and gold. It is worn in this photograph by
General Pinckney 's great-grandson, Charles Cotesworth Pinckney,
Esq., of Richmond, \'a.

Governor Broughton. of Charleston. S.C. . . . 421

Drawn in pastel by Miss Henrietta Johnson in 1712. Owned by
Mrs. George S. Bryan, of Charleston, S.C.

Peter Manigault fctci'Kg 424

Born, Charleston, S.C, 1731. He was educated in England: be-
came a barrister of tlie Inner Temple. Later he was speaker of
the House in South Carolina. This portrait was painted in 1751,
when he was twenty years old, by Allan Ramsay, the last court
painter. It was much admired when exhibited, in New York, in
1903. Owned by Charles Manigault, Esq., of Charleston, S.C. '

Brocaded Silk Coat facin/^ 432

Worn by Admiral Jackson, in the eighteenth centurv, when on
diplomatic dutv. Owned by his descendant, Stirling Peters Esn
of Brooklyn, X'.Y. ' "^"

Bridal Nightcaps. Of f nest needlework . . facing 434

Banian '.^37

Worn by Dr. Edward Holyoke, Salem, Mass. Owned bv Miss
Susan W. Osgood, of Salem, Mass,

Nicholas Boylston

A wealthy citizen of Boston, who was a benefactor of Harv ird''
University, Cambiidge, .Mass. In Memorial Hall, Harvard Uni-
versity.



facing 43 S



List of Illustrations ix

Old Redcap 440

This portrait of Elias Ball, Esq., a leading Tory of South Carolina,
is now owned by Henry Laurens, Esq., of Charleston, S.C. The
subject was known as " Old Redcap," or " Elias Redcap," from his
favorite red velvet head-gear. His hospitable plantation home bore
the curious title of " Coming T."

Horace Walpole 441

Born, in London, 1717; died, 1797.

William Cowper . 442

Born in 1731 ; died in 1800.

Man's Muff 447

From Hogarth.

A Spark of the Bar with his Wig and his Muff . 449
Adam Winthrop 451

Grandfather of Governor John Winthrop. Born, 1498 ; died, 1562.
This portrait is by Holbem. It is owned in the Winthrop lamily.

William Shakespere 452

On the back of the original is this note, " This Chandos Shake-
spere was the property of John Taylor, by whom or by Richard
Burbage it was painted." It was left to Sir William Davenant by
Taylor. After Davenant's death the actor Betterton owned it ; then
it fell into the possession of the Duke of Buckingham, whose col-
lection was sold at the " Stowe Sale," September, 1848. This por-
trait was bought by the Earl of EUesrnere, and presented to the
National Portrait Gallery in 1856.

Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset ..... 454

Born in 1587; died in 1645. He was notorious through his mar-
riage to the infamous Countess of Essex. Painted by John Has-
kins. This is in the National Portrait Gallery.

L. St. Ouily 456

Drawn and engraved, in 1801, by Saint Memin. The stock and
ear-rings make a dandaical dress.

Captain George Taylor, of Salem, Mass. . . . 457

Born, in Bermuda, in 1769; died, at the Cape of Good Hope, in
1819. He took active part in the War of 1S12, as master-at-arms
on board the privateer Frolic. He was for a time a prisoner at
Dartmoor. This miniature was painted at Lisbon, Spain. Owned
by Miss Martha Pond, of Salem, Mass.

Fair Evelyn Byrd 463

Daughter of William Byrd, of Westover on the James. This por-
trait is at Lower Brandon on the James.

William Browne and Mary Burnet Browne, of Salem,
Mass following 464

He is in claret-colored velvet. Her plain dress is rich dark blue
velvet with simple white tucker and undersleeves. She points to
her Salem home, " Folly Hall," painted in the background of her
portrait, as was the fashion of her times. These portraits are now
in Virginia. The photographs were taken by Frank Cousins, of
Salem, Mass.



X List of Illustrations

Mrs. Betty Carter Byrd 4*57

Wife of William Byrd (3d).

Green Brocade Gown fadiiq- 468

Worn by Mary Waters, wife of Andrew Sigourney, of Salem, Mass.
Lent 10 Boston Museum of Fine Arts.

Light Blue Brocaded Satin Gown . . . facing 470

Another view of the gown shown facing page 156.

Mrs. Curwen, of Salem, Mass 472

Afterwards Mrs. Riissel. Owned by Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.

Sacque facing 475

This sacque-shaped gown was worn as a court-dress by the wife of
"Barrister" Carroll, of Baltimore, Va. It is worn in the photo-
graph, and now owned, by the great-grandniece of Mrs. Carroll,
Miss Sarah Chamberlaine Tighlman, of Baltimore, Md. The
sacque is of very heavy soft silk damask, cream-colored, w-ith
brocaded flowers of light blue, pink, and the favorite raisin hues.
It is trimmed with a gold galloon in which are woven knots and
designs of silks in the color of the flowers.

Martha Custis 475

Martha Dandridge was born in 1731 ; married Daniel Parke Custis
in 1747: was widowed in 1757: married George Washington in
1759; died, 1802. This portrait, painted in 1758, while she was the
widow of Mr. Custis, is by John Woolaston. It is now owned by
General George Washington Custis Lee, of Lexington, Va.

Mrs. Joseph Scott ...... facing 476

Her maiden name was Freelove Olney, of Providence, RT. She
died in 1815. Her husband was the last royal colonel of the
Cadets. Painted by Copley. Owned by George Scott W^inslow,
Esq., of Boston, Mass.

Brocade Gown 479

This gown, with its striped silk petticoat, was worn by Mrs. John
Clarke in 1750. She was Sarah Pickering, of Salem, Mass. See
Pickering Genealogy, Vol. I, p. ill. The gown is owned by Francis
H. Lee, Esq., of Salem.

Yellow Brocade Gown facing 480

This interesting dress was one of three lengths of heavy silk,
which were made from silkworms reared by Mrs, Charles Cotes-
worth Pinckney, of Charleston, S.C. Her maiden name was
Eliza Lucas. She also spun the silken thread, and had the bro-
cade woven therefrom. One dress was given to Queen Charlotte,
who wore it at her drawing-room; the other made a niglitgown
for Lord Chesterfield. This, the third, was worn at the English
court, and has always been carefullv preserved. It is worn in
the photograph bv Alice Rutledge Reese, great-great-great-grand-
daughter of Mrs. Pinckney, the maker and first w-earer of the'gown.

Fly-fringe .g,

A little edging or gimp worn during the reigns of George II and
George III, but peculiarly in fashion about 1760. The li'ttle knots
were of floss silk, and were fastened to a central cord in groups of
two knots alternating with four knots.



List of Illustrations xi

Mrs. Ralph Izard 483

A miniature by Malbone.

Dress of Mrs. Daniel Horry .... facing 4S4
Worn in tlie photograpli by lier great-granddaugliter.

Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Izard, of Charleston, S.C. facing 486
Her name was Anne de Lancey, of New Yorl<. Slie was a great-
granddaughter of Sir Natlianiel Jolmson. Painted by Copley, in
Rome, in 1774.

Caps with Ribbon Ruches 486

These were known as the " dormouse " or the " dormeuse " ; being
labelled in plates both dormeuse and dormice.

Mrs. Livingstone /''"-",?' 488

Stomacher with Apron 488

Worn by Eleanor Calvert, Maryland. Photographed by ATiss
Rebecca L. Webster.

Mrs. Judith Bowdoin Flucker . . . facing 490

This portrait, painted in 1748, now hangs in the Walker Art Build-
ing, of Bowdoin College, Brunswick, Me.

Lady Temple facing 492

Her name was Augusta Bowdoin. This fine pastel is by Copley,
and with the companion portrait of her husband is owned by W.
T. Tappan, Esq., of Bound Brook, N.J. It resembles strongly
her portrait as a child.

Blue Stays with White Kid Welts .... 493

Owned by Miss Philbrick, of Salem, Mass.

Fans and Piece of Brocade Gown 495

Worn by Mrs. Jolin Adams. The articles of dress shown in this
book which were once owned and worn by Mrs. Adams have
been bequeathed to the present owner (Miss Susan E. Osgood,
of Salem) by the wife of Rev. Joseph Felt, of Salem, Mass. He
wrote that treasure-honse of ancient lore, the Annals of Salem.
Mrs. Felt was a niece of Mrs. Adams.

Old Painted Kid Fan 496

Owned by Miss Mary Coates, of Philadelphia, Pa.

Carved Ivory Fan 498

Owned by Miss Sarah N. Coates, of Philadelphia, Pa. The fan
bears the initials, " S. N. C," of the original owner, a great-aunt
for whom the present owner was named.

Mrs. Benjamin Smith facing 500

Her maiden name was Loughton. She is dressed in blue satin and
white lace, with small cap. This portrait was painted by Jeremiah
Theus, and is now owned by the South Carolina Art Association.

Rebecca Taylor Orne facing 502

Born in Lynn, Mass., in 1727. She was the wife of Timothy Orne.
a rich Salem merchant. Her portrait was painted about 1747.
Owned by Francis H. Lee, Esq., of Salem, Mass.



xii List of Illustrations

Madame de Sevigne ........ 506

Born, 1626; died, 1696. Her Iiair is dressed in " Iieart-breakers."

"Peggy" Cha.mplin . . . . . . . .510

Married Benjamin Mason, of Newport, R.I. A Ijelle, a beauty, a
patriot, and .a Daugliter of Liberty. .Sire was a daughter of Colo-
nel Christopher Ciiamplin, and granddaughter of Abraham Red-
wood. This miniature is owned Ijy her great-grandson, George
Ciiamplin Mason. Esq,, of Germantown, Pa.

Head fro.m Plocaco.smos 511

By James Stewart, 17S2.

Le B.andeau d'Amour . . . . . . -513

From Plocacosiiws, by James Stewart, 1782. A treatise on hair-
dressing and morals.

Mrs. Alexander McComb 515

Her maiden name, Catherine Navarre, shows her descent from
tlic Icing of Navarre. She was one of the belles of the Inaugura-
tion Ball, 1789, and died the same year, aged thirty-two, leaving
nine children. Her hair is craped and powdered ;' the gown is
peach-colored brocade, with rich lace tucker. This miniature
was painted by John Ramage ; it is owned by a great-grand-
daughter, Mrs. Daniel L. Trumbull, of Norwdch, Conn.

Mrs. Duthill . . . . . . . . . ci6

By Saint Memin.

Macaroni Head-dress rjg

An old print with caricature of a Macaroni head-dress. The top
of the sedan-chair is taken out to permit the rider to sit upright.

Frances Cadwalader, Lady Erskine . . faciitc ti-'o

By Gilbert Stuart. ■' ^ ^'



519
521



Lady Kennedy ........

By Saint Memin.

Mrs. de Witt Clinton

Wife of Governor Clinton. Drawn and engraved by Saint Memin
in 1797.

Lady Johnson ;..,

By Saint Memin. ' •'"''
Mrs. Cox in Curled Wig -21

By Saint Memm, 1798. " " ' i -*■

Children OF Colonel William Moultrie . faciiiir\-x

By Coram. -' 6 J) 4

Mrs. OLi\'Eii Ormsby

By Saint Memin. • • ■ . . 5.5

Susanna Rowson



Born, 1762; died, 1824. Celebrated as a school teacher actress'
" Chl^lot'te Tct^'p,;''.^ ^"'"°^ °' °"^ °' "- «-' ^■" - " -veis;



526



List of Illustrations xiii

Mary Abby Willing Coale 527

Born, 1789. Daughter of Dr. Samuel Stringer Coale and Anne
Hopkinson (sister of Francis the Signer). This pretty girlish head
is by Saint Mernin, when she was about twenty. It is owned by
the Misses Coale, of Baltimore, Md. A charming portrait of her
was painted by Sully in i8og.

High Comb 529

Portrait of Miss Wilson, 1808. Drawn and engraved by Saint
Memin.

Matilda Hoffmann ........ 530

Miniature painted by Edward G. Malbone.

Edward Hyde, Lord Cornbury ..... 536

Afterwards third Earl of Clarendon. This is in woman's dress.

Children of James U of England . . feeing 538

Painted in 1695 when the prince was seven years old ; and the
poor little piincess weighed down with matronly garments was
scarce three years old. In the National Portrait Gallery,

Mary Marshall 539

Mother of Chief Justice Marshall.

Mary Philipse 540

Daughter of Frederick Philipse, third lord of the manor on the
Hudson. She was born in 1730, died in 1825. She was about
thirty and George Washington about five years younger when she
refused his offer of marriage — so runs the story.

Priscilla Webb Ropes. 1761 541

Owned by the Esse.x Institute, Salem.

Sarah Hampson 543

Wife of Captain James Hampson, of Virginia.

Mrs. Samuel Bishop facing 544

Wife of a prominent citizen of New Haven in Revolutionary times.
Owned by the New Haven Historical Society.

Mrs. Elias Boudinot 546

W^ife of the president of the Continental Congress, 17S2.

Mrs. James Duane 548

By Charles Willson Peale. Owned by James C. Duane, Esq., of
Staten Island.

Dorothea Lynde Dix facing 550

Born in Charlestown, Mass., in 1746; died in Worcestei", Mass., in
1837. She was married in 1771 to Dr. Elijah Di.x of Worcester;
in which town their names are commemorated in the Lynde Brook
Reservoir, Dix Street, and the famous Dix pear. The town of
Dixmont, Me., was named for them. The famous philanthro-
pist and reformer, of the same name, was a granddaughter of
Madam Dix. Her daughter Mary married Thaddeus Mason Har-
ris, D.D., of Dorchester, whose eldest son was Thaddeus William
Harris, M.D., "The American Entomologist," and the father of
the present owner of the portrait, Miss Emma Forbes Harris, of
Cambridge, Mass.



XIV



List of Illustrations



Mrs. Samuel Stringer Coale • ^ • . ■ „. • "^ •/ ^^
She was Anne Hopkinson, sister of Francis the Signer, and wife
of Dr Coale. This simple dignified costume is of the year 1806.
The likeness is by Saint Memin. It is now owned by the Misses
Coale, of Baltimore, Md.

Mrs. Faith Savage Waldo ■ • ^ • ,. ' ,,, ,: ' ^^^

Bom, 1683; died, 1760. Her husband was Cornelius Waldo.

Mrs. Rebecca Salisbury Waldo . . • • _• 5SS

She married Daniel Waldo. Born in Boston, 173 1 ; died in
Worcester, iSii. She was a fine, high-spirited, witty woman, whose
sayings are still told among her descendants. The artist is un-
known, but I believe him to be the same as the painter of the portrait
of her neighbor and relative, Mrs. Dorothea Lynda Dix.

Mrs. Robert Morris facing 556

She was married in 1766, and died in 1824. The story of her life
and her husband's is one of the most marked exhibitions of finaii-
cial and social reverses that America can furnish. This portrait
is by Charles Willson Peale. It is in Independence Hall, Phila-
delphia.

Mrs. Abraham Redwood Ellery 558

Painted about 1812.

Mrs. Armira Wilson Tyler SS9

Born, 1780; married Stephen Tyler, of Winsted, Conn., in 1805;
died in 1856. This portrait was painted, in 1820, by an artist
named Phillips. It is owned by Mrs. Edmund Munson, Winsted,
Conn. The cap and kerchief are well painted.

Mrs. Adam 561

By Saint Memin.

Mrs. Robert Eglesfield Griffith . . . facing 562

Her maiden name was Maria Thong Patterson. This was painted
by Gilbert Stuart, in 1797, when she was twenty-three years old.
It is owned by Manuel E. Griffith, Esq., of Philadelphia, Pa.

Mrs. Harriet Porcher 564

Painted by Sully. Owned by Mrs. Edward W. Hughes, of Charles-
ton, S.C.

Charlotte Hesselius facing 568

First wife of Thomas Jennings Johnson. She was the daughter of
John Hesselius, the portrait painter. Painted by a French minia-
turist named Escois. It is an exquisite miniature, wonderful in the
delicacy of its coloring. The golden-tinted hair fairly shines. It
is now owned by her great-granddaughters, the Misses Evans, of
Baltimore, Md.

Mrs. Abigail Adams Smith .... facing 570

Wife of William Smith, of Jamaica, Long Island. Daughter of Pres-
ident John Adams. This portrait was painted by Mather Brown of
Boston. Owned by Brooks Adams, Esq., of Boston, Mass,

Leghorn Hat and Bonnet C72

Brought from Italy about 1805. Owned by Miss Alice Browne,
Salem, Mass.



List of Illustrations



XV



Lavinia Hat

From potlrait of Viscount Anclover, * ' ' ''

Three Riding Hats. 1786-1790 rnr

From Town and Country. '



576



Bonnets of 1810

The Gypsy, Beehive, Polish fly-cap, and Cottage bonnets.

Bonnets of 1805 - 577

These are the Beehive, of straw ; the Hamlet bonnet, of straw over
a white net; Foundling cap; the Circassian bonnet, of soft white
■ silk; the Cottage bonnet, of chip trimmed with blue ribbon; and
the Installation cap, of green velvet with gold bands. These are
from fashion plates of that year.

The Polish Casquette 578

Known as the Bolivar and the Military riding hat. This is a por-
trait of the sister of Saint Memin, the artist.

Green Silk Sunbonnet 5S0

Owned by author. This has welts into which are run stout rattan
reeds, which hold the bonnet in shape. Green silk and green
barege (an almost obsolete thin woollen stufl" for summer wear)
were the favored materials for shirred sunbonnets.

Calash or Bashful Bonnet 581

Owned by Bucks County Historical Society.

Slat Sunbonnet 582

These were made of two thicknesses of stout calico or jean, into
which were slipped slats of board, whalebone, or pasteboard, which
were sewed in place. The slats were removed when the bonnet
was washed. This sunbonnet is in the collection of the Bucks
County Historical Society.

Old Pockets 586

Owned in Salem, Mass. The smallest is of linen embroidered in
crewels. Two are of white dimity embroidered. The largest, which
was a popular shape, is of figured " chiney " (a heavy cotton stuff).

A Pair of Pockets 587

Owned by Miss Mary Atkinson, Doyleston, Pa.

Mrs. Walter Stewart , 589

Her maiden name was Deborah M. Clenahan. This portrait by
Charles Willson Peale is deemed one of his masterpieces. It is
owned by John B. Church, Esq., of Geneva, N. Y.

Mrs. William Jackson facing 590

Daughter of Thomas Willing. Married Major Jackson, aide-de-
camp to Washington. This masterpiece of Gilbert Stuart's, called
by many his best portrait, is owned by the Pennsylvania Academy
of the Fine Arts.

Bead Chain 59^

Fine white beads with rosebuds.

Bead Bags 593

Owned by author.



XVI



List of Illustrations



Elizabeth Fry /fC"''^ ('°°

Born in Norfolk, Ent;.. in 1780. iJiud at Ramsgate, Eng,, in 1845.
Her maiden name was Elizabclli Gurney. Slie was an " accepta-
ble minister in the Society of Friends, a leading philantiiropist, and
lire successful promoter of prison reform in England," This por-
trait was painted by George Richmond in 1824. The gown is a soft
brown; the sliawl is pearl color; the kerchief and cap pure white.
Quaker Hat.s . . ■ 602

These two fine specimens of Quaker hats of the early years of the
nineteenth century are owned in iJoylestown, Pa. Tlie straw hat is
owned by the Bucks County Historical Society. The white beaver
hat is owned by Miss Lizzie Barber.

Quaker Bonnets 607

" Owned by Mrs. T. O. Atkinson, of Doylestown, Pa.

The Gallery of the Meetl\g-house . . . .612
Photographed by Mary F. C. Paschall.

Foot-mantle . .616

This is an old drawing in the sixteenth century used as an illustra-
tion for the H7/^ o/ Bath in the Canterbury Tales.

Thomas Cecil, Lord Burghley, in a Foot-cloth facing 618

Born, 1529; died, 1590. A great English statesman ; Secretary of
State under Edward Vf, Mary, and Elizabeth. This portrait is
in the Bodleian Library.

RlDIXG-DRESS OF 1 784 62 1

From Town and Country.

Mrs. Thomson in Riding-dress .... facing 622

Mrs. Hannah Harrison Thomson. Painted in 1776. Owned by
Mrs. Robert Webster McPherson, of Washington, D.C.

The Amazon'e. 1808 626

Scarlet cloth with gold buttons and cord. From an old fashion-
plate.

Glengarry Habit. 1820 627

Light blue broadcloth, with silver lace and frogs. Hat of inter-
laced strips of cork. From an old fashion-plate.

Wedding Gown g,-,

Worn by Dorothy Levcrett at the time of her marriage to Lieu- ^'
teriant-Colonel John Denison of Salem, Mass. Worn also bv a
bride of later years, who threw it out of her window, jumped after
It, and was married in it to the man of her choice. It is owned bv
a granddaughter of the seventh generation, Mrs. William C. West



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