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History and antiquities of the county of Norfolk (Volume 9) online

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Virginia in North America, prefented in 1751 to this


of thofe half gloomy, and yet not unpleafing fccnes, in which PouiTin <!:-
lighted ; it is a fpot worthy of luch a pencil.

Sherringham Cliff is a very hi^h fteep fhore ; it looks on one Cide full
upon the fea, and on the other a various country abounding with inecju^lj-
ties of ground : many hills fcattered wildly about, numerous cultivated
inclofures, and fix or feven villages are feeo. Sherringham is ptettilj
verlooked, backed by a rifmg hill.

Farmer's Tur thro' the Eaft f England, by Arthur Young, efq.


What in fome meafure confirms the conjecture that
Pedder's Road took its name from fome anceftor of
the above Toby Pedder, efq. is an order of feflions
made in the reign of Charles I. by fir Hamon
L'Eflrange, chairman, and other juftices of the peace,
at Walfingham in 1637,. and is as follows:

" Norff. W.

" SESSIO GENEHAL. PACIS Dm. Regis tent, apud
" WALSINGHAM PARVAM ibid, in com. prd. die jo-
" vis videlt. duodecimo die O&obris anno regni dmi.
" Caroli nunc regis Anglia?, &c. tertio decimo coram
" AMMONE L'STRANGE milke, Roberto Baron, et
" Edwardo Gournay armigeris juflicr. diL dmi. re-
" gis ad pa^em nee non, 8cc. Aifign 3 .

" Whereas theire was a variance betwene the in-
*' habitants of the towne of Hunflanton on the one
" part, and TOBY PEDDER of the fame towne, on the
" other part concerning ordinary rates in the faid
" towne and complaint being made to this court
" theiroff at Fakenham feffions houlden the twenti-
" eth of July lafl, the court then ordered that the
" cheife conftables of the hundred of Smithdon
4< fhould by all due meanes inform themfelves of the
" fqverall qualities aud conditions of the feverall
* c lands furlongs and parts of the towne and fields
*' within the faid towne of Hunflanton and fliould
41 according to their beft difcretion impofe feverall
* yearly values 8c eftimates upon the faid feverall
*' lands to the ende the particular eflate in poundage
" of eveiy inhabitant theirin might appeare, 8c that
" they fliould at the next feffions for that hundred
" to be houlden certifie a particular accompt of their
" faid labors & judgmentes, which certificate (if

" good

S M I T H D O N. 17

*' good caufe fliould not be (hewed to the contrary)
" fhould be ordered to {land for a (teady rule of rates
" for the future quiet and good government of the
41 faid towne as by the faide order more at large ap-
" pcareth : And whereas the faide referees by ver-
" tue of the faide order did take paines and viewed
" 8c obferved the feverall qualities of the feverall
" partes of the faide towne & fields, & did duely
" confider of the rates 8c manner of taxation now in
*' ufe and praclife by the inhabitants of the fame
" towne in the prefence of the faid Toby Pedder &:
" mod of the cheife inhabitants theirin, the faide
" referees did find and certifie that the rates now in
" ufe 8c manner of taxation amonge them are both
" according to poundage 8c yearely value, S: that the
" fame hath already bene formed with fo much labor
" diligence 8c faithfulnefs that they do much approve
" theirof and that the faide Toby Pedder is theirby
" rated with mod cafe & advantage, and that the
" other inhabitants did not much contradict the fame
" and theirfore die faide referees did forbeare to
" make any alteration theirin, as by the fame cciii-
" ficate allo more at large appeareth.

" NOW feeing that no caufe is (hewed unto this
" Court to the contrary, This Court ordercth the
" rates now in ufe 8c the manner of taxation in the
" faide towne of -Hunltanton (hall (land and conti-
" nue hereafter for a (leady and conftant rule for the
" future quiet 8c good government of the faid towne
' of Hunftamon.


Now this order of feflions in 1637 has been men-
tioned, we will hazard a few obfervations upon the
ufual method of affeffment of poor rates at this day,
now fo exceedingly advanced as to becom,e almoft a
fiational grievaiice.

W The


The poor rates are ufually made out according to
a certain form of affeffment, by which the taxation
upon parifhes in general is become very unequal.
The form is, to lay a farmer or occupier of lands to,
the poor rate from his real or fuppoied rent, and
moft commonly from the latter: now this, PRIMA
FACIE, is contrary to all reafon and juflice as well as
to the practice of our anceftors, who we make no
doubt were full as wife as we are. A farmer rents
(for inftance) lands for 300 or 400!. a year, that are
worth loool. and which probably will be lett fora
thoufand at the expiration of his leafe : this has
happened in Norfolk, and is likely to happen again.
Now will any magiftrate fay that this occupier of
jands, who hires probably 2000 acres for his 300 or
400!. a year, is taxed to the poor rate according to
his proportion becaufe he is taxed to his rent ? Our
anceftors thought otherwife. Upon an appeal they
ordered the high conftable to go and refide for fome
time in the parifh from which the complaint was
made ; "to take pains, view, obferve, and inform
" theinfelves of the feveral lands, and the rates and
" manner of taxation in that parifh, and to make a
" report of the fame to the juftices at the quarter-
" fefflons of the peace."

Such were the fentiments of our anceftors, and
we recommend them to the ferious attention of all
the gentlemen in the commiffion of the peace for the
county of Norfolk. The occupiers of lands were
to pay in proportion to the lands occupied, the qua-
lities and conditions of fuch lands, and the chief
conftables were to fee the taxation formed according
to the yearly value: but according to the prefent
very unequal and partial mode of taxation in ufe for
the relief of the poor, we may venture to affirm that
many families in every p^ifh are laid to an arbitrary
rate for the relief of others, who fland themfelves in


S M I T II D O N. 19

m*cd of charitable contributions for their own flip-
port, while the great occupiers of lands fhift off the
burden from themfelves, and by a fpecious affeffment
elude the vigilance of the aclmg magistrate.

DOCKING, with SOUTHMERE. Southmeri
was a confiderable town in king Edward's reign, and
at the furvcy, though now all included in Docking:
it lies north-weft, about two miles from Docking,
where now is a large farm and hoilfe, called by cor-
ruption Summer-Field Houfe*.

This Summer-Field Houfe, as it is now called, is
in facl a large farm belonging to Mrs. Henley, of
Docking, and, with Sunderland, in the occupation
of Mr. John Curtis. Thefe two farms confift of
about 1700 acres, on which 1000 wethers are fat-
tened yearly ; and, by the judicious ufe of turnips
and fpring-grafs, are erteemed amongft the moft pro-
fitable and well-condu&ed farms in the kingdom.

Southmere is a reclory, and the patronage is
in the provoft and fellows of Eton college, who in
1744 prefented the Rev, Mr. Thomas Deriiley, vicar
of Houghton, at the inftance of Dean Bland, then
provoft of Eton, to whom Mr. Dcrifley was at that
time curate for the rectories of Harpley and Bircham,
held with his deanery of Durham and provoftfhip of
Eton. The prefent re&or is the Rev. Mr, Pulton,
rector of Titchwell, and one of the lecturers, or
Conducts, as they are called, of Eton chapel, The
church has been long dilapidated, but the rectory
is valued at lool. per annum.

SOUTHMERE Manor! This manor was originally

in the family of the Luvels, or Lovell's, and in the

year H44, Henry VIII. granted it to John lord Lo-

C 2 veil,



veil, with right of free warren, and a weekly market
to be held at Docking, into which town this manor
extended. In his time there was a capital houfe,
600 acres of land, and 240 of heath belonging to
it, and at Docking another capital houfe, called Sand-
ifland, and now by corruption Sunderland, with 300
acres of land. The market-day at Docking was

This John lord Lovell was defcended from the
lord Lovell, who, in the time of Richard III. was
a great favorite at court, and who, from his bearing
a dog for his creft, and fupporting the iniquitous and
bloody mcaftires of that ufurper and horrid murderer,
was diflinguifhed by the following farcaftical verfes :

" The Rat, the Cat, and Lovell the Dog,
" Rule all England under the Hog."

By the rat and cat were meant Richard's other
defpicable favorites and creatures, Ratclirfe and Ca~

"LovELi/s Manor, or SOUTHMERE. From the Lo-
veils this manor went to fir John Ratcliffe, and in
this family it continued till Robert Rateliffe, earl of
Suflex, fold it in 1597 to John Hare, efq; fon of
John Hare, citizen and mercer of London, whofe
fan Hugh Hare was created lord Colrain, in Ireland,
Auguft 3, 1625.

Hugh Hare, efq. fecond fon of Hugh, lord Col-
rain, had the grant of it from his father. He mar-
ried Catherine, daughter of John Holt, efq. of Sa-
lifbury m Wiltfhire, by whom he had iffue three
fons and one daughter, viz. Henry, many years col-
lector of the cuftoms in the port of Lynn ; he died
October 24, i 733. sd. John, a captain in the royal


S M I T H D O N. 21

navy, who died in the fervice of his country. 3d.
Lucy, married to major-general Henry Holt ; fhe
died in the year 1723. 4th. Hugh Charles, re$or
of Southmere, and Greflenhall : he married Mrs. Wi-
nifred Brady.

Upon the death of the Hon. and Rev. Hugh
Charles Hare, January 28, 1743, the eftate and ma-
nor above-mentioned devolved to his only furviving
child and heirefs Catherine, who was married Au-
guft 28, 1740, to, Henry Holt Henley, efq. of Leigh,
reprefentative in parliament for Lyme Regis in Dor-
ictflure: he died May 8, 1748.

Mrs. Henley found the lands here ill cultivated,
deftimte of wood and fpring water, and proverbially
called Dry Docking*.

Mrs. Henley has enriched all this country with
very numerous and beautiful plantations, the fcite
of which has been particularly well chofe. By her
conflantly refiding in, and by a benevolent and fen-
fible attention to the various interefts and wants of
the place, both have been confulted and provided

In different parts of her eftate above 140 acres
have by her been planted with various kinds of wood ;
and four wells funk between 180 and 190 feet deep;
exclufive of one in the centre of the town, 195 feet
deep, for the common ufe of the inhabitants, who
are daily reaping the advantages, and enjoying the
fruits of the well-direcled beneficence of a lady, whofc
name will be ever dear, and whole memory will al-
ways be refpecled in the place : fhe is happy in
feeing (and may fhe long furvive to fee) it flourifh in-
plenty and profperityt.


* Park*. f Ibid.


Mrs. Henley's plantations have been exceedingly
extended of late years, fmce Parkin wrote, and many
buildings, fome for ornament and others for life,
erected on them with great elegance and tafle :
amongft thefe is a cenatoph, called Mount Clifford,
in honor of the countefs of Leicefter, baronefs Clif-
ford in her own right, encircled with a beautiful plan-
tation, and commands a fine profpeft upon the fea :
it is eafily diftinguifhed with a Dollond's telefcopc
from the Bclvidere of fir Edward Aftley at Melton-
Conflable, a diflance of 23 miles.

This lady has refided generally at Docking, the
only method of improving an eflate to advantage,
and has continued in one uniform tenor of doing
good throughout life ; but as file is ftill living, it is
impoflible to fpeak with that juflice to her character,
that will be done to her memory by poflerity, when
her unbounded liberality, and her other virtues can
be related ; for to relate them now muft be to cele-
brate them, and of courfe we fhould be fufpecled of
an ill-timed flattery, that will be found no flattery

DOCKING, or ZOTCH'S Manor, fo called from Wil-
liam Zouch, lord Haring worth, who poffefTed this
iordfhip in right of his wife, the daughter and heirefs
of John lord Lovell. This William lord Zouch was
a great warrior, and accompanied king Edward III.
in many of his expeditions into France and Scotland.

From John lord Zouch it came to fir Thomas
L'Eftrange, in the sift year of the reign of Henry
VIII. and it remained in the L Efirange's till the
end of the reign of queen Elizabeth. It then carne
to the female hens of iir John Zouch, of Derby-
fhire, and from them to the family of the Hovells.
in James I.


S M I T H D O N.

2 5

Sir William Hovell was lord in the reign of James
I. and by the marriage of Dorothy, his fecond daugh^
ter and co-heir, it came to Martin Folkes, efq. \vhofe
ion Martin Folkes, efq. Prcfident of the Royal So-
ciety, died pofleffed of it, and it defcended to his
brother, the late William Folkes, efq. of Hillington.

His only fon, fir Martin Folkes, created a baronet
in the reign of George III. and afterwards ele&ed a
Fellow of the Royal Society, is the prcfent lord. Ki*
mother was only daughter and heirefs to the late fir
William Browne, an cininent phyfician, formerly at
Lynn, and afterwards at London, Preiident of the
Royal College of Phyficians in Warwick-lane.

William Folkes, efq. married for his firft wife the
iiflcr of Andrew Taylor, efq. formerly alderman and
mayor of Lynn; at whofe deceafe his eflates at
Beechamwell, and many other places, became di-
vided between his four nieces, daughters of William
Folkes, efq. one married to captain M - Bride of the
royal navy ; a fecond to Edmund Rolfe, efq. of

Heacham ; a third to Weft, efq. and the fourth

to Weftou, elq. of Gloucefterfhire.

In Southmere was a manor called Warners.
Anthony Gamage had, in the 4th of Elizabeth, li-
cence to convey it to Robert Futter, and the earl of
SufTex, in the 3^th of that queen, to grant it to John
Hare, efq.

The church of Docking is dedicated to St. Mary,
covered with lead, and a chancel tiled. At the weft
end is a large fquare tower, with one bell. In the
chancel, on a marble grave-ftone, " Carolus Hare,
'" armiger, filius quarto genitus Hugonis baronis de
" Colerain, lub fpe beatae relurrcclionis, cselebs vixit
' t mortuus eft, fepuh. Maij iS, 1685."



On three marble ftones adjoining are the follow^
ing infcriptions : " The honourable Henry Hare,
efq. Oft. 24, i 733, aged 62." " The honourable
and reverend Hugh Charles Hare, Jan. 28, 1743,
aged 68." " Winifred, the faithful wife and widow
of the honourable and reverend Hugh Charles Hare,
Aug. 14, 1761, aged 82,"

The plate for the communion fervice, viz. one
large flagon, one covered cup, and a plate to receive
the alms of the communicants, were prefented tp
the church by this family ; and a complete and
handfome furniture for the pulpit, dcfk, and commu-
nion table, by Mrs. Winifred Hare*.

It was anciently a relory valued at 46 marks, and
Appropriated to the priory of Ibrey in France, given
by Goel de Ibreyo, as is faid, and in the 28th of
Edward I. John lord Lovell quit-claimed to that ab-
bot, and his fucceffors, all his right in the advow-
fons of this church, with thofe of Southmere and

This parifh is now a vicarage, in the gift of die
bifhop of Norwich, who in 1773 prefented the pre-
fent vicar, the Rev. Henry Lloyd, of Caius and Gon-
ville college, Cambridge, and brother to Richard
Lloyd, efq. of Bylaugh, in the hundred of Eynsford
in this county.

In the time of queen Elizabeth there was an organ
in the church of Docking, but for want of repair
was probably fpoiled and loft ; for there are no re-
mains of an organ at prefent.

The re&ors of Southmere, or Summerfield, in the
prefent century, were,


* Parkin,

S M I T H D O N. 25

l 703. Abraham Wilkins, prefented by queen Anne,
a. lapfe.

1704. Charles Trimnell, by the queen, afterwards
bifhop of Norwich.

1707. Robert Cannon, afterwards dean of Lincoln.

1722. Hon. Hugh Charles Hare, father of Cathe-
rine, the prefent Mrs. Henley of Docking.

i 744. Thomas Derilley.

FRING, Frenge or Frenze. This little village is
filuated in a great valley between two coniiderable
hilJs, and a rivulet running through it ; the name
of it is truly antique, and as it was called by the an-
cient Britons, Frau or Fran, fignifying in that lan-
guage a ftream, and Gey, water ; and Frau is a ri-
ver in Wales.

NORWICH PRIORY Manor. This lordfhip was
fetded on the monks of the priory of Norwich, found-
ed by bifhop Herbert, who removed the fee frorn
Elmham to Norwich, and founded the priory A. D.


On the difTolution of the priory, and furrender of
it to king Henry VIII. in 1538, by William Cal-
tleton, the prior, (probably an anceftor of the pre-
fent Rev. Mr. Edward CafUeton, brother of fir Wil-
liam Caftletqn, bart. prcfentcd to the vicarage of this
parifh in 1744) that king founded it for a dean and
fix prebendaries, and fix minor canons.

FRIXG Manor. In the 2oth of Henry VIII. Tho-
mas L'Eftrange, efq. was lord, and held 300 acres
of land, 12 of meadow, 30 of pafture, 4 of wood,
100 of furze and heath, 4!. per ann. rent, with fix
meffuages ; and in the 36th of that king died feifcd
of it, being then a knight.

D Sir


Sir Hamon L'Eftrange fold it in the reign of queen
Elizabeth to John Richers, gent/"

HACKFORD and UPHALL Manors. This lordfhip
jn the reign of Richard III. was conveyed by fir
William Say to Henry L'Eftrange, efq. of Hun-

In the time of Oliver Cromwell, that sera of glory
to the Englifh nation, when the name of an Englifh-
man was really, as he faid he would make it, as ter-
rible to France and Spain, as that of an old Roman,
this lordfhip was fold from the family of Richers,
of Derfmgham, to the lord vifcount Purbeck, ne-
phew to George Villers, duke of Buckingham, fa-
vorite to king Charles I. and lord high admiral of
England, who was affafiinated at Portfmouth by
lieutenant Felton, having made himfelf very obnox-
ious to the kingdom in general. This lord Purbeck
was fon of John lord vifcount Purbeck, brother to
George Villers duke of Buckingham, by Frances
Coke, daughter of fir Edward Coke, lord chief
jufticc of England,- founder of the Holkham familv
and fortune : a man of great abilities in the law.

Robert Villers, the fon of this lord Purbeck, by
Frances, daughter of lord chief juftice Coke, and
who married Elizabeth, daughter of fir John Dan-
vers, fold this lordfhip to the Delavals, who obtain-
ed from king Charles II. the grant of an annual .fair,
to be held on the loth of May.

From the Delavals it came to a Mr. Framingham,
a baker at Lynn, whofe daughter married fir Peter
Seaman, a brewer at Norwich, who lies buried in St.
Gregory's church in that city, where there is a mar-
ble monument ereded to his memory, and a family

* Parkin.

S M I T H D O N. 27

It then came by marriage to captain Goodwin, fon
of alderman John Goodwin of Lynn, and he dying
without iffue, his brother, Mr. Henry Goodwin, a
brewer at Greenwich, is the preient proprietor. It
lies in an open uninclofed country, is a very valua-
ble eftate, and has been eRimated at 30,000!. The
parifh is now very fmall, but in the year 1603, ac-
cording to Parkin, there were 186 communicants.

Captain Goodwin abovementioned married the fif-
ter of fir John Nelthorp, bart. of Barton in Lincoln*
fhire, upon the Humber.

-HEACHAM, or, as it was called in Domefday
book, Hecham, or a hamlet, or ham, by the wa-
ter, is fuppofed to take its name from a river run-
ning through tlie town into the fea. This river rifes
from fprings near Bircham, and p'affes through Fring,
Scdgeford, and Heacham, to the Lynn channel.
There was formerly a harbour here, which might be
opened again with great facility, and made naviga-
ble ; and probably this event will in pro eels of time
take place: at prelent finall veffels, fuch as (loops,
annually put in here with coals, but it is only in
fummer time, the riding at anchor being unfafe in
winter. The neighbourhood, as thefe (hips appear,
lend waggons down to the beach andfhore, and load
them from the veflel.

Edmund Rolfe, efq. with fir Edward Aftley, bart.
and Nicolas Styleman, efq. as joint heirs at /aw of
fir Henry L'Eftrange, of Hunftanton, are the chief
proprietors of eftates in this village, which is moft
beautifully fituated near the fea; a fine open cham-
paign country all around it, and rifing gradually from
the ocean in pleafing a teems, which command an in-
viting profped crofs the channel upon the coaft of

D 2 Edmund

2 8 H U N D R E D O F

Edmund Rolfe, efq. who has an elegant feat in
this village, lately much improved and ornamented
with fpacious gardens and fhrubberies, married Do-
rothy, one of the daughters and co-heireffes of Wil-
liam Folkes, efq. of Hillington in the hundred of
Freebridge Lynn, and half filler to the prefent fir
Martin Folkes, bait, only fon of the above William
Folkes, efq. of Hillington.

Mr. Rolfe fervcd the office of High Sheriff of this
county in the year 1769.

LEWES PRIORY Manor. At the difTolution, Ro-
bert, prior of Lewes, and the convent, on December
22, in the sgth of Henry VIII. granted this manor,
the appropriated reclory, and patronage of the vi-
carage, with a cell here belonging to the faid priory,
to the king, who, in the faid year, gave it to Tho-
mas duke of Norfolk.

It was afterwards in Philip earl of Arundel, who
being attainted, Thomas Howard, earl of Suffolk,
had a grant of it from the crown, November 22, in
the 6th of king James I.

In the following year, November 3, the faid earl
conveyed all the aforefaid premiffes to fir Hamon
L'Eftrange, of Hunftanton, knt. \vhofe immediate
defcendant and heir, the Hon. fir Henry L'Eftrange,
bart. died lord in 1760, and on a divifion of his
eftate, this came to his fifler, Mrs. Armine Styleman,
widow, relicl of Nicolas Styleman, efq. of Snettifham,
and Nicolas Styleman, efq. her eldeft fon and heir,
the prefent lord"'.

The town of Heacham probably takes its name
from Itche, the common name of a river among


* Parkin,

S M I T H D O N. 29

the Iceni. In the book of Domefday it is called
He&am, and to this day it is fpelt by the inhabitants

CALEY'S HALL. This manor was originally in the
family of the Caleys, and from them fo called, In
the reign of Henry VIII. it came into the pofleffion
of fir Thomas L Eflrange, knt. and in this family it
remained from that time. Sir Henry L'Eftrange,
bait, died poflefled of it, and it is now in Nicolas
Styleman, efq. of Snettifham, whofe mother was one
~ the fiflers .of fir Henry.



The church is dedicated to St. Mary, and built in
a cathedral or conventual manner, has a nave, a
north and fouth ifle-, with a north and fouth tran-
fcept, or crofs ifles, and a chancel covered with lead,
a (qua re tower and one bell.

This church being greatly in decay was repaired
lately at the expence of the pariih, but a fcheme is
in agitation of taking part of it down, and creeling
a new tower ; for the church at Heacham is a land-
mark to all veffels bound to Lynn. ' Sir Edward
Aflley, who with Nicolas Styleman, efq. are lords
of the manor, has had a plan and drawing taken for
a new church, which probably may be put in execu-
tion fomc years hence.

On a mural monument againft the wall of the
north ifle:

" Hie pofitae funt mortales exuviae venerab. viri
" Robti Redmayne L. L. D. cujus dignitatem et
" prasftantiam teftantur copiofe agerLancaftrenf. aca-
" demia Cantabrig. civitas Norvic. comitatis Nor-
" folc. totufq; fere hie alter orbis Anglia quinq; epii-
" copor. Nordovic. p. 37 annos et ultra cum fum-



" ma norninis fui amplitudine cancellarius fletit dig*
" niffimus, nulli fui ordinis fuit fecundus, ormiium
*' ornamentum, qua prudentiam qua pietatem erudi-
" tionis omnimoda?, varietatem, memoriae felicitatem,
" judicii maturitatem, morum iuavitatem< vitae in-
" tegritatem, et in omni re geranda mirandam dexte-
" ritatera prseftitit, vir fuit fpedantiffimus,

" Sed mortalis erat, tumulus mortalia condit,

" Spiritus in Chrifti vivit agitq; finu.
" ExcefTit vita 5 Aug. 1625, aetat fuac ao. 74."

On a graveftone by it, " Here lyeth the body of
" Dorothy Redmayn, widow, fometime wife of John
" Rolf of Hecham, gent, afterwards wife of Dr.
'* Redmayne, chancellor of Norwich, after whofe
" death fhe lived a widow 20 years, and died Oclo-
ft ber, 1645, in the 8oth year of her age, and is
" buried at the feet of her 2 hufbands.

" In their lives they were lovely, and in their

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