Bertha Haffner-Ginger.

Cookery reformed; or, The Lady's assistant. Containing a select number of the best and most approved receipts in cookery ... together with a distinct account of the nature of ailments ... To which is added the Family physician online

. (page 1 of 29)
Online LibraryBertha Haffner-GingerCookery reformed; or, The Lady's assistant. Containing a select number of the best and most approved receipts in cookery ... together with a distinct account of the nature of ailments ... To which is added the Family physician → online text (page 1 of 29)
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Cookery Reformed :




A fele<5l Number of the beft and moft approved


A diftinft ACCOUNT of the Nature of ALIMENTS,
and what are moft fuitable to every Conftitutiqn.

Publiflied from Papers colle&ed by feveralGENTLEMENand
LADIES eminenj for their good Senfe and Oeconomy.

To which is added,



An eafy, fafe and certain Method of curing moft
DISEASES incident to the HUMAN BODY.

Publifhed at the Requeft of a Phyfician of great Experience,
who for the Benefit of the Purchafer, has carefully cor-
reded this Work ; and (hewn why feveral things heretofore
ufed in COOKERY, and inferred in other Books, have been
prejudicial to Mankind.


Printed for P. DAVEY and B. LAW, at the Bible and
Ball in Avemary Lane* MDCCLV.



THERE is fcarce any fubje<5t on which
more books have been written, than
that of COOKERY j and yet no one
has been hitherto managed with lefs accura-
cy, care or judgment ; fome have endea-
voured to render their writings as bulky as
poffible, by collecting all kinds of culinary
materials to fwell them into feveral volumes,
as if a man's chief bufinefs was to live to eat y
and not to eat to live j others again have not
been contented with plain or even ' coftly
Englifti dimes, but have introduced various
examples of foreign luxury, the names of
which, though perhaps well known at nrfl,
are now fo corrupted that they cannot be ex-
plained or rectified by the moft copious dicti-
onaries in any language. Thefe have been
continued in all books of this kind, even
in thofe mod in vogue ; in which like wife the
good and the bad dimes have been jumbled
together, without order or diftinction.

But thefe objections are of fmall weight in.
comparifon of thofe which concern our
HEALTH, for whatever affects this is of the
higheft importance ; fince, when this is de-
praved, we are in effect bereaved cf every

A 2 other


'- ?H;


other bleffing of life ; becaufe every other en-
joyment without health, will be rendered alto-
gether inflpid and ufelefs ; and yetthefe prove-
ditors for the palate have never troubled their
heads about it, when they gave directions to
prepare their cullifes, their crocands and their-
puptons j it not being an object worth their
ferious consideration. However, the leaft at-
tention to thofe matters will convince us, that
fuch heterogenous mixtures muft necefiarily
vitiate and inflame the blood, and confe-
quently difturb and deprefs the active functi-
ons of the body, and all the noble faculties of
the mind. I could give various inftances to
illuftrate this affertion, but I (hall only men-
tion a pernicious practice, which they all re-
commend with one voice ; I mean the ufe
of brafs and copper veffels in pickling, to be-
flow a beautiful colour on the vegetables to be
preferved : this indeed will produce the in-
tended effect, by the corrofive nature of the
vinegar and other acids acting on the cop-
per, and turning it into a kind of verdigreafe,
which tinges the pickles and heightens their
natural verdure into a bluim green. Now as
verdigreafe is a flow poifon, it is no wonder
the frequent ufe of fuch pickles mould pro-
duce great alterations in the human body,
while the caufe remains unfufpected. This
method of reafoning is fully confirmed by
the late prohibition of the ufe of copper vef-
iels both in Sweden and France.

i Few


Few people are very fond of living up to
the exact rules of phylic, nor is it necefTary
they mould ; but this is no excufe for taking
meafures that will infallibly ruin their confti-
ons j efpecially as any man may make a deli-
cious repaft, without making himfelf fick with
the indigeftible gallimawfry of an injudicious
caterer, in like manner as he may take a chear-
ful glafs, without poifoning himfelf with the
ftum'd wine of an avaricious vintner.

Such confiderations as thefe have prevailed
on me to examine fome papers that have
been put into my hands, and to felect fuch
materials out of them, as are moft condu-
cive to health and pleafure, without en-
dangering i he conftitution ; this I think fhould
be the chief defign of thofe that write trea-
tifes of this kind. I have like wife in the
account of aliments, and the method of
curing difeafes, made fuch corrections and al-
terations, as I judged would render them of
real ufe to the publick j and indeed there is
fuch a natural connection between the pro-
perties and ufe of aliments and medicine, that
I think they are here not unfitly joined toge-
ther ; efpecially as different conftitutions re-
quire different aliments to correct the excefs
of them, fo as to render life cafy.

Now as to different conftitutions, there
requires no g?eat fund of knowledge to be



able to diftinguifh one from another ; for we
can fcarce help obferving, that fome perfons
are heavy, indolent, timorous and void of vi-
vacity ; which (hews that fuch are of a phleg-
matic temperament ; they have likewife a pale
foft ikin and flefh, with lank, light coloured
hair. Thofe of a bilious conflitution are quick,
lively and nimble in all their motions ; they
are choleric, with ftrong pafTions 5 the habit
of body is lean and dryj and they have ge-
nerally reddifh curled hair. The melancholic
are fpare, ftrong, robuft and laborious, with
a dark complexion and black hair ; they are
apt to be filent, abfent, grave, folitary, in-
flexible and void of companion ; all their ac-
tions are unpolite, they are fond of their own
opinions, which are generally extravagant 5
and they are always obftinate in their love and
hatred. 7.*he fanguine are moderately corpu-
lent, have a frefli florid complexion ; and are
pleafant, gay, fincere, polite, modeft and
amorous. But thefe conflitutions are feldom
or never met with fimple and unmixt, but
one of them generally predominates over the
reft : hence it appears, that what may be fui-
table and falutary to one conflitution, may be
unfit for, or rather detrimental to another.
This renders the ftudv of aliments more ne-


ceflary than is commonly fuppofed j and tho'
writers of this clafs have never taken notice
of any thing of this kind, it may rather be
attributed to ignorance than defign ; or at



leaft they judged it not to belong to their pro-

But though authors of cookery have ne-
glected this ufeful branch, they generally
abound with phyfical receipts ; which it were
to be wifhed they had entirely omitted :
much mifchief they probably have done, but
I am fure they never could do any good.
Many a patient has depended upon thefe for
relief, till the difeafe has gained ground and
been rendered incurable ; or by the prepofte-
rous operation of thefe incongruous medicines
he has been hurried out of the world.

It was therefore high time to lay down fuch
rules and directions for the cure of difeafes,
as will beft anfwer the end for which they
are defigned ; fuch will not only prevent the
ufe of improper remedies, but alfo enable
ladies and gentlemen in the country to affift
their poor neighbours, and often raife them
from the jaws of death j for they are gene-
rally destitute of any other help. For this
reafon, the utmoft caution has been ufed that
nothing might be recommended that would
not probably anfwer fome valuable purpofe ;
I fay probably, for there are many difeafes
that will elude the force of the beft contrived
remedies, and baffle the {kill of the moft
able phyficians.



The directions are every where as plain as
the nature of the fubject will admit of, and
are fo particular, as to prevent the unfeafon-
able exhibition of any medicine, if they are
attended to with due care. Likewife fuch
things are propofed as may or ought to be
kept in every apothecary's (hop, that there
may be no time loft in the preparation of the
drugs upon any emergency j the neglect of
which has been 'of confiderable detriment to
many an unhappy patient: I mention this
with regard to accute difeafes, which termi-
nate in life or death in a {hort time j but as
to chronic or tedious maladies, there will be
time enough to procure the beft of every kind.
With regard to acute difeafes, it would
be well if every family would keep fome
remedies by them, which are recommended
in this book, becaufe they are fure to be had
genuine at the places herein mentioned.




To choofe beeef ib.
To roaft beef 2

To broil beef fteaks 3

To boil beef ib.

To force the infide of a

firloin of beef 4

To make Dutch beef ib.
To ftew a leg of beef 5

To bake a leg of beef ib.
To bake an ox-cheek 6

To roaft veal ib.

To boil veal . 7

To ftew a knuckle of veal ib.
Another way to ftew a

knuckle of veal ib.

To mince veal ib.

A brown fricafly of veal 8
To make a white fricafly of

veal ib.

To make Scotch collops

with veal 9

To make forced meat balls

with veal ib.

TON and LAMB 10
To choofe mutton and

lamb ib.

To roaft mutton 1 1

To roaft mutton venifon

fafhion ib.

To hafh cold mutton 1 2

To boil mutton ib.

To make a mutton hafh ib.
To boil mutton chops 1 3


To fluff a leg or fhoulder
of mutton 13

To make a mutton ham ib.

To roaft houfe-lamb 14

To boil houfe lamb ib.

To boil a leg of lamb ib.

To drefs a lamb's 'cad ib.

and HAMS 15

To roaft pork ib.

To roaft a loin of pork
with onions 16

To roaft a pig J 7

To bake a pig 18

To boil a ham 1 9

To pickle pork ib.

To boil pickled pork ib.

To drefs pig's petty toes 20

To choofe Weftphaliaham ib.

To choofe Englifh hams,
gammons and bacon ib.

To make bacon-hams 21

To make bacon ib.

To roaft a ham or gam-
mon of bacon ib.


To choofe venifon ib.

To roaft venifon ib.

To keep venifon fweet,
and to recover it when
tainted 2 3


To choofe hares and rab-
bits ib.

To roaft a hare ib.

H 2 To


To roaft rabbits 25

To rcaft a rabbit hare

fafhion ib.

To jug a hare ib.

To ftew a hare . ib.

To boil rabbits 26

To boil a rabbit with oni-
ons ib.
To fricafly rabbits 27
and TRIPE ib.
To boil a tongue ib.
To roaft a tongue 28
To roaft an udder ib.
To fricafly neats tongues ib.
To ftew neats tongues

whole ib.

To fry tripe 29

To ftew tripe ib.

To roaft tripe ib.

To choofe poultry ib.

To roaft a turkey 3 1

To roaft fowls and chickens ib.
Another way to roaft a tur-
key ib.
To broil chickens 32
To ftew chickens ib.
An agreeable method of
ftewing chickens or
fowls ib.
To make a brown fricafly

of chickens 33

A white fricafly of chic-
kens ib.
To choofe pheafants 34
To roaft pheafants ib.
To boil a-pheafant 35
To ftew a pheafant ib.


To choofe a goofe or a
duck 35

To roait a duck 36

To boil a duck with oni-
ons ib.

To roaft a goofe ib:

To dry a goofe 37

To ftew goofe giblets ib.


To roaft wild ducks, teal
or widgeons ib.

An agreeable way to drefs
a wild duck ib.


To choofe partridges ib.

To roaft partridges 39

To boil partridges ib.

Another way to boil a par-
tridge ib.

To choofe fnipes and wood-
cocks 40

To roaft fnipes and wood-
cocks ib.

To boil fnipes and wood-
cocks ib.

and LARKS 41

To choofe pigeons and
larks ib.

To roaft pigeons ib.

Another way to roaft
pigeons 42

To broil pigeons ib.

To boil pigeons ib.

Another way to boil

pigeons 43




To flew pigeons

To drefs larks

Todrefs larks pear-fafhion 44


To choofe eggs ib.

To broil eggs ib.

To drefs eggs with bread ib.

A fricafiy of eggs 45

BEANS, 6fY. ib.

To ftew fpinnage ib.

To drefs fpinage with eggs 46

To boil cabbage and
fprouts ib.

To drefs cauliflowers ib.

To drefs broccoli 47

To drefs parfnips ib.

To ftew parfnips ib.

To mafh parfnips 48

To boil carrots ib.

To boil turneps ib.

To drefs potatoes ib.

Another way to drefs pota-
toes ib.

To broil potatoes 49

To fry potatoes <b.

To mafh potatoes ib.

To drefs beans and bacon ib.

To drefs Windfor beans 50

To boil French beans ib.

To boil artichoaks ib.

To boil afparagus ib.

To 'ftew green peafe with
cream 5 1

To ftew peafe with lettuce ib.

To ftew cucumbers ib.

To fricafly fkirrets ib.

To bake apples whole ib.

To ftew apples whole ib.

To bake pears ib.

To ftew pears 53

To ftew pears purple 53


To choofe fifh ib.
General rules to be obferved

in drefling of fifh. 54
To fry carp 55
To ftew carp ib.
To bake carp 56
To broil mackerel 57
To broil mackerel whole ib.
To foufe mackerel 58
To broil herrings ib.
To fry herrings ib.
To bake herrings for keep-
ing ib.
To broil falmon ;g
To drefs pickled falmon ib.
To ftew cod 60
To boil a cods head ib.
To broil cod's founds ib.
To fricafly cod's founds 6 r
To broil haddocks 62
To broil whitings ib.
To boil a turbot ib.
To boil foals and a little

turbot 63

To boil flat fifh ib.

To fry flat fifh ib.
Another way to boil plaice

or flounders ib.

To bake a pike 64

To ftew eels ib.

To ftew eels for broth ib

To fry eels 65
To drefs eels with brown

fauce ib.

To fpitchcock eels ib.

To fry lampreys ib.

To boil ftur^eon 66

To roaft frefh ilurgeon ib.

To drefs fait fifh 67

To roaft lobfters ib.

H 3 To



To butter lobfters 68

To drefs a crab ib.

To butter crabs 68

To fcollop oifters 69

To (iew mufcles ' ib.

To ftew fcollops ib.

To butter fhrimps 70

To make SAUCES for

turbot, falmon, broiled

cod and haddock ib.

Shrimp fauce ib.

To make oifter fauce ib.

To make anchovy fauce 7 1
Another anchovy f 'nee ib.


FOWLS, & c . ib.

To me't butter ib.

To burn butter forthicken-

ing of fauce ib.

To make gravy 72

To draw gravy from beef,

mutton or veal ib.

To make gravy for white

fauce ib.

To make gravy for turkies

or fowls 73

Another gravy for fowls ib.
To make a fifh gravy ib.

Sauce for venifon 74

Sauce for roafted turkies ib.
Sauce for a boiled turkey ib.
Sauce for fowls ib.

Egg-fauce for roafted fowls

or chickens ib.

Shallot fauce for roafted

fowls ib.

Lemon fauce for boiled

fowls 75

Another fauce for boiled

turkies or fowls ib.

Mufhroom iauce for turkies

or fowls ib.

Sallery fauce for turkies,
fowls, partridges, ffr. ib:

Sauce for a roafted goofe 76

Sauce for a boiled goofe ib.

Sauce for roafted ducks ib.-

Onion fauce for boiled
ducks or rabbets ib.

A f^eedy way of making
onion- fauce ib.

To make bread-fauce 7 7

Sauce for pheafants and par-
tridges ib.

Sauce for larks ib.

Sauce for a hare ib.

Another fauce for a hare ib.


FUR A > IT Y 78

To make water- gruel ib.

To ma' e barley-water ib.

To make panado ib.

To boil fago 79

To make white caudle ib.

To make a brown caudle ib.

To make chicken- water ib.

To make chicken-broth ib,

To make ftrong beef or
mutton broth 80

To make mutton broth ib.

Brot'n of a fcragof veal ib.

To make plumb- gruel 8r

To make plumb-porridge ib.

To make Scotch barley-
broth ib.

To make mutton broth 8 2

To make beef-broth ib.

To make a ftrong broth for
foups ib.

To make a very ftrong
broth for various ufes 83


To make a gravy for foups ib.
To make a gravy foup ib.
To make another gravey

foup 84

To make a green peafe .

foup ib.

To make foup of old peafe 85
To make portable foup ib'.
To make an elegant peafe-

foup with flelh-meat 86
To make a green peafe-

foup without flefh meat 87
To make peafe porridge ib.
To make a barley-foup 88
To make rice-foup ib.

To make rice-milk ib.

To make furmity ib.

To make almond-foup 89
To make eel -foup ib.

To make thorn back or

fkate-foup ib.

To make craw-fim foup 90
To make a goofeberry-

fool 9 i

To make an orange-fool ib.
To make a Weftminfter-

fool 9 1



To make a good cruft for

great pies ib.

To make a {landing cruft

for great pies ib.

To make a cruft with beef-
dripping ib.
To make a cruft with cold

materials 93

To make puff-pafte ib.

To make pafte for tarts ib.
Another pafte for tarts ib.
To make a mutton-pie ib.
To make a beef-fteak pie 94

To make a fweet lamb or
veal pie ib.

A favoury veal pie ib.

To make a venifon pafty ib".

To make a mock venifon-
pafty 95.

To make ham- pie ib.

To make a goofe-pie 96

To make a giblet-pie ib.

To make a duck-pie ib.

To make a pideon-pie 97

To make an eel pie ib.

To make a herring-pie ib.

To make a falmon-pie 98

To make a fait fifh pie ib.

To make a potato-pie ib.

To make an artichoak-pie ib.

To make an apple-pie 99

To make a pear pie joo

To make a cherry-pie ib.

To make goofeberry, cur-
rant and plumb-pie ib.

To make mince-pies ib.

To make mince-pies with
eggs i oi

To make apple, pear and
apricot tarts ib.

To make cherry, rafberry
and plumb-tarts 102

To make tarts of preferved
fruit ib.


A general rule to be ob-
ferved in boiling pud-
dings ib.

Tomakeaflewer-pudding 103

To make a boiled fuet pud-
ding ib.

To make a batter puudinp ib.
H 4 A


A. batter pudding without

eggs ib.

To make a bread pudding 104
To makf: a common bread

pudding ib.

To make a bread pudding

for baking ib.

To boil a loaf to referable

a pudding 105

To make a boiled plumb-
pudding ib.
To make an agreeable

plumb- pudding ib.

To make a baked pudding ib.
To make a marrow-pud-
ding ic6
To make a fteak or pigeon

pudding ib.

To boil a cuftard-pudding ib.
To make a rice-pudding 107
To make a plain rice- pud-
ding ib.
To make a baked rice-pud-
ding ib.
Another baked rice-pud-
ding ib.
To make a mutton-pud-
ding 108
To make a rich baked rice-
pudding ib.
To make a Yorkfhire pud-
ding ib.
To make a quaking pud-
ding 109
To make an orange-pud-
ding ib.
Another orange-pudding ib,
To m ake a potato- piiddingno
To make a carrot-pud-
ding IIO
TO make an apple- pud-
ding ib.

To make a peafe-pudding in
To make yeaft-dtimplings ib.
To make hard dumplings ib.
Another way to make hard

dumplings ib.

To make fuet dumplings 112
To make fuet dumplings
' with currants ib.

To make apple-dumpHngs ib.
To make black- puddings 113
To make white hogs pud-
dings ib.
To make faufages 114
To make Bologna-faufa-

ges ib.

To make a hafty pudding

with flower ib.

To make a hafty pudding

with oat-meal 115

and TANSIES ib.

To make pancakes ib.

To make finer pancakes 1 1 6
To make rice-pancakes ib.
To make apple-fritters ib.
To make apple- froifes 117
To make a tanfey ib.


To make cu Hards ib.

To make baked cuftards ib.
To make almond-cuftards ib.
To make almond-cheefe-

cakes i i 9

To make lemon-cheefe-

cakes i ig

To make orange-cheefe-
cakes ib.



To make a fine cream 1 20
To make a whipt cream ib.
To make lemon cream ib.
To make Ratifia cream ib;
To make hartfhorn gelly 121
To make calves feet-gelly ib.
To make currant-gelly 122
To make a fyllabub with

milk from the cow ib.
To make whipt fyllabub 123
To make flummery ib.


To make muffins ib.

To make oat cakes 1 25

To make French rolls ib.
To make light wigs ib.

To make buns 126

To make little plumb-
cakes ib.
To make a pound cake ib.
To make a feed cake 1 27
To make a very good cake ib.
To make an ice for cakes ib.
To make gingerbread 128
To make gingerbread nuts

and cakes ib.

To make Shrewfbury

cakes ib.

To make march-pain 129
To make bifcuits ib.

To make Naples-bifcuits ib.
To make almond bifcuits i^O
To make mackeroons ib.
To clarify butter for pot-
fang 130
The common way of pot-
ting beef, venifon and
fowls 131

A particular way to pot

venifon ib.

To pot eels ib.

To pot lampreys 1-22

rw ' u 1_ t

1 o pot chars ib.

To pot a pike ib.

To pot tench, carp, trout
and falmon 133

To pot a lobfter ib.

To pot Chefhire-cheefe ib.

To collar beef 1 34

To collar a breaft of veal
or mutton ib.

Another way to collar a
bread of veal 135

To collar eels ib.

various ufes 136

To make marmalade of
quinces ib.

Another way to make the
fame ib.

To make marmalade, gel-
ly of currants or barber-
ries ib.

To clarify fugar for pre-
ferving ib.

To prcferve peaches 137

To prefcrve green apricots ib.

To preferve darnfons and
plum-bs for tarts and pies ib.

How to keep green goofe-
berries for winter 138

To prcferve red goofeber-
ries ib.

To preferve green peafe 138

To preferve French beans 1 39

To preferve apricots ib.

To make apricot chips 140

To make marmalade of
apricots ib.



To keep cherries all the
year ib.

To make Morello cherry-
cakes 141

To make clear currant and
ralberry-cakes ib.

To keep plumbs all the
year 14*

To preferve cherries ib.

To preferve goofeberries 1 42

Toclrygoofeberries ib.

To make goofebery-cakes 143

To preferve green figs ib.

To candy the peels of
oranges, lemons and ci-
trons ib.

To make lemon-cream ib.

To ftew golden pippens 144

To dry golden pippens ib.

To preferve black plumbs 145

To dry plumbs ib.

To dry pears clear ib.

To keep quinces raw all
the year


To make currant- wine ib.

To make goofeberry-
vv:ne 147

To make raifm-wine it).

To make elder- wine 148

To make orange-wine ib.

Another way to make
orange-wine ib.

To make cherry-wine 1 49

To make cowfiip-wine ib.

To make birch-wine ^ 150

To make ginger-wine ib.

To make catchup 151

To make catchup for long
keeping ib,

The ART of PICK-
LING 152

To pickle walnuts ib.

To pickle cucumbers ib.

To pickle French beans 153

To pickle red cabbage ib.

To pickle beet-root ib.

To pickle cauliflowers 154

To pickle muftirooms ib.

To pickle onions ib.

To pickle ftertion or naf-
turtium buds 155"

To pickle plumbs, peach-
es, nedlarines and apri-
cots ib.

To pickle barberries 156

To pickle famphire ib.

To pickle eifters ib.

To pickle ex ckles and
mufcles 157

MADE DISHES of vari-
ous kinds 158

To ftew veal coll ops ib.

To bake an ox-cheek ib.

.To make curious beef- a-la-
mode ib.

Another way to make the
fame 1 59

To ftew a rump of beef ib.

To roll a rump cf beef ib.

Curious pickled beef for
boiling 1 60

To make beef coll: ps 1 6 1

To ftew beef fteaks ib.

To fry beef fteaks ib.

Another way to drefs beef
fteaks 162

To drefs the infide of a fir-
l in of beef ib.

An extraordinary method
of ftewing a rump of
beef ib.

To fricafiy cold roaft beef 163
To force a neat's tongue ib.


To ftew a neat's tongue

whole 1 64

To fricafly ox palates ib.
To fry tripe ib.

To ftew tripe 165

To collar pig ib.

To drefs pigs petty-toes ' ib.
A curious way to drefs a

pig 166

To drefs a lamb's head ib.
To hafh a calve's head 167
To bake a calve's head ib.
To ragoo a breaft of veal 168
To fricafTy tripe ib.

To fricaffy pigeons 169

To ftew turkey ib.

An eafy way to force a fir-
loin of beef 170
To give a hautgout to a

leg of mutton ib.

To roaft a leg of mutter!

with oifters ib.

To bake mutton fteaks i 7 i
To fry mutton or lamb

fteaks ib.

To roaft rolled veal ib.

Another way to roaft rolled

veal 172

To roaft a bacon ham ib.
To fluff and roaft a chine

of pork ib.

To roaft tripe 173

To roaft a ftufFed turkey* ib.
To ftew a turkey, fowl or

a neck of veal 174

Another way to drefs fowls

or turkies ib.

To broil chickens ib.

To drefs chickens with

hog's tongues 175

To ftew ducks 162

An agreeable way to bake

pigeons ib.

A curious method of dref-
fing a hare 176

To force hogs ears ib.

To ragoo oifters 177

To fry cold veal ib.

Online LibraryBertha Haffner-GingerCookery reformed; or, The Lady's assistant. Containing a select number of the best and most approved receipts in cookery ... together with a distinct account of the nature of ailments ... To which is added the Family physician → online text (page 1 of 29)