C. A. (Charles A.) Higgins.

To California over the Sante Fé Trail online

. (page 10 of 11)
Online LibraryC. A. (Charles A.) HigginsTo California over the Sante Fé Trail → online text (page 10 of 11)
Font size
QR-code for this ebook

istics obtain in the new Chinatown that made the
old a place of such mystical allurement.

The old world of clubdom, the multitudinous
restaurants with their varied menus, and the gay

Cliff House, San Francisco.

theaters where the world's greatest artists have
appeared, all passed away, but in their places new
and even more attractive ones are being built.
' One may look in vain for many historic land-
marks, for the old-time churches and libraries and
art galleries.

Yet there is much of even greater interest in
San Francisco for the sightseer. The rebuilding
of a great city is in itself such a titanic undertaking
and herculean labor as to appeal strongly to any
person who likes to see "things in the making."

San Francisco is now well equipped to care for
the hurried stranger of a day, or the visitor whose
stay lasts indefinitely. Many hotels have resumed
business; many new ones have been built and
opened. All have been newly furnished, have
good rooms with baths, also first-class restaurants
and grill rooms. There are now 136 hotels here,
containing 15,300 rooms, built at a cost of
$55,000,000. This is fifteen per cent more than
before the great fire, and the accommodations pro-
vided are very much better.

The main edifice and annex of St. Francis Hotel
are entirely occupied. The Palace Hotel is being
rebuilt on the old site, and on an even greater scale
of magnificence, a temporary building housing the
Pdace clientele in the meantime. The magnifi-
cent Fairmont Hotel, one of the finest in the world,
and massed grandly on the crest of Nobs' Hill, was
thrown open to the public two summers ago.


Suffering somewhat in
prestige by having been
considered for many years
as a suburb of San Fran-
cisco, Oakland has recently been asserting a marked
and aggressive individuality of its own, and probably
no city on the Pacific coast has made more
marked progress in the last five years than has this
wonderfully favored town. With a population
now of considerably more than one hundred thou-
sand, Oakland has thrown off the swaddling clothes
of suburbanism and become distinctly urban, with
a clearing-house of its own, with large and numer-
ous banking houses, hotels, theaters, cafes, public
buildings and all the other indicia of a rapid round-
ing into metropolitanism. It has had a wonderful
development in the last few years, and has every
assurance of a prosperous future on its own merits.*

Resting in the great amphitheater formed by the
Sierran foothills back of it, with the great Bay on
its front and a landlocked harbor six miles in length
on its southern side, its location is at once pictur-
esque and commercially most fortunate. Its east-
ern shore has fifteen miles of water front, while
Oakland Estuary and the basin lying at its head is
suited for shipping of larger draught, and the shores
for extensive shipbuilding. Manufacturing inter-
ests will move steadily up the eastern shore of the
Bay; the room, the small cost of ground, close touch
with overland railway, ship and factory appealing
to manufacturers. 185

Oakland High School.

Santa Fe Station.



Suburban San Francisco embraces much of inter-
est. The bay shore cities of Berkeley, Oakland
and Alameda (housing a population one-third as
great as San Francisco's normal number), are in
turn neighbored by pretty suburbs. On the heights
above Oakland is the home of Joaquin Miller,
farther south Mills College, delightfully environed,
and several charming picnic parks among them
Piedmont Springs and Leona Heights.

On the Marin County shore, beyond the Golden
Gate, are Sausalito and Mill Valley, through which
a winding scenic railway is built to the half-mile
high summit of Mount Tamalpais, from whence
one may view the entire bay region. The trip is
similar to the climb up Mount Lowe, near Los
Angeles. Farther inland is the charming residence
suburb of San Rafael.

To the south, along the peninsula, one comes
upon the homes of some of California's million-
aires, at Burlingame, of polo repute, Milbrae, and
San Mateo, while below the junction of San Fran-
cisco's peninsula with the mainland the Santa
Clara Valley stretches southward between the Coast
and Santa Cruz ranges. Along this valley lies the
way to San Jose and the coast resorts of Santa
Cruz and Monterey, with intermediate ooints of

Palo Alto is the site of the Stanford University,
where, in a campus of 8,000 acres, an arboretum

to which every clime has liberally contributed,
stands this magnificent memorial of a cherished
son. The buildings are conceived in the style of
mission architecture low structures connected
by an arcade surrounding an immense inner court,
with plain, thick walls, arches and columns, built
of buff sandstone and roofed with red tiles. Richly
endowed, this university is broadly and ambitiously
planned, and is open to both sexes in all depart-
ments. The damage done by the '06 earthquake
is being repaired.

Hard by, at Menlo Park, is the Stanford horse
breeding and training establishment, where hun-
dreds of thoroughbreds are carefully tended in
paddock and stable, and daily trained. Even one
who is not a lover of horses, if such a person exists,
can not fail to find entertainment here, where daily
every phase of equine training is exhibited, from the
kindergarten, where toddling colts are taught the
habit of the track, to the open course, where
famous racers are speeded.


Along the great San Francisco water front, with
its masts and spars, flapping sails and ship chan-
dlery stores, the very spirit of roving and adventure
is in the air. A stroll here will impress the visitor
with the city's wonderful future possibilities.
The dream that along San Francisco Bay
will be built a world-city bids
fair to become a reality.

Here one may observe the big four-masters, laden
with wheat brought around Cape Horn. A rakish
brig unloads a cargo of copra and sandalwood, which
tells of the scented groves of south Pacific islands.
Over yonder are big bunkers, with sooty workmen
and busy engines, straining at coal buckets. Farther
on is a party of gold-seekers, bound for the Alaskan
fields. Other steamers are taking on passengers and
freight for lower California, Panama and Mexico, or
for the far-off countries of the Orient. Japanese,
Chinese and Koreans mingle with the throng.
A patriotic bit of color is displayed where soldiers
just back from the Philippines are disembarking.
And when evening comes on the deep-sea chants
rise above the city's roar as anchors are lifted.
One then keenly feels the call of the sea. The
genius of Stevenson has woven a halo of romance
over these semi-tropical seas that woos the traveler
with well-nigh irresistible charm. As you look
westward out of the nation's front door from the
Cliff House headland height, it would be strange,
indeed, if you were not seized with a longing to
set sail.

Where will you go since go you must ?

To Hawaii ? Magical isles, wreathed in flowers
and laved by flashing summer seas ; land of banana

plantations, cane and rice fields ; land of roaring
volcanoes and verdant plains.

To Samoa ? Coral shores under the Stars and
Stripes ; happy natives, cocoanut palms and deli-
cious tropical fruit, transparent seas and beautiful

To Tahiti ? Riotous vegetation, the supple
bamboo, broad-leaved banana and lance-leaved
mango ; an out-of-doors country, where houses are
used only to sleep in.

To New Zealand ? Newest England, as it has
been fittingly called; half round the world, but
nearer than many of you have thought ; the famous
west coast sounds, rivaling the fiords of Norway.
^To Australia ? A partly explored continent of
vast and varied resources ; wonderful cities, strange
races, and strange flora and fauna, kangaroos and
paroquets, cockatoos and pouched bears.

Which one, or all of them ?

It can not be decided for you here. Indeed, the
purpose of these brief pages is only suggestive, to
point the way and tell you of the excellent facilities
for travel. Other publications will tell you more in
detail of the attractions, and they may be had for
the asking from agents of the Santa Fe. One
rare trip outlined therein is around the world via
San Francisco, Hawaii, Samoa, New Zealand, Aus-
tralian ports, India, Suez, the Mediterranean,
Continental Europe, England, Atlantic liners, and
United States railway*.

The superb fleet of steamships formerly main*
tained by the American and Australian (Oceanic
Steamship) Line, between San Francisco, Samoa,
New Zealand and Australia, has been temporarily
withdrawn. These boats favorably compared with
the finest Atlantic steamers. They were of 6,000
tons burden, with twin screws the fastest, largest,
and most luxurious steamers in the Pacific trade.
These ships were specially fitted for tropical voyag-
ing with large and well-ventilated cabins. It is
confidently expected that they will resume regular

The Oceanic S. S. Co. still has fast passenger
service to Honolulu, Hawaii, with sailings every
three weeks on the Sierra. Another staunch boat
of this line leaves San Francisco about every five
weeks for Papeete, Island of Tahiti, where con-
nection is made with the Union Line steamer
Mariposa for New Zealand.

Luxurious steamers of the Pacific Mail, Occi-
dental & Oriental and Toyo Kisen Kaisha lines
may be taken from San Francisco on a straight-
away cruise to Yokohama, and thence to Hong-
Kong. By this route both China and Japan may
be visited, including a run down to our new pos-
sessions in the Philippines. The steamers are all
swift, commodious and seaworthy.


The coast route northward from Los Angeles
by rail has many notable attractions, chief of which
are Santa Barbara (page 159), Monterey and
San Jose. The two last named may be conve-
niently visited by a short ride from San Francisco
and the first from Los Angeles.

The traveler who elects to follow the coast in
his journey to the Golden Gate will be taken
northward and then west to the sea at San Buena
Ventura. On the way San Fernando (near which
are the ruins of the San Fernando Mission) is
passed and a considerable oil district in the vicinity
of Newhall and Santa Paula ; also Oxnard and its
big beet sugar factory, producing 75,000,000
pounds of sugar annually.

At San Buena Ventura is another mission estab-
lishment surrounded by luxuriant orchards of
deciduous fruits and vast lima bean fields, the
product of which reaches far-away Boston.

Beyond San Buena Ventura the winding coast
line is closely followed for a hundred miles or more
to and through Santa Barbara, until crossing the
mountains it leads down into the Salinas Valley, a
mountain-walled, oak-dotted park, the northern
end of which merges in the far-famed Santa Clara
Valley of the north.

From the gray-brown bluffs and rounded hills,
for the hundred or so miles by the sea, but little


hint is given of the fertile interior ; but a continu-
ous marine panorama of wave-washed shore is
unfolded, with a far-reaching ocean view bounded
by the Channel Islands.

Wayside items are the asphaltum pits and ocean
oil-wells at Summerland, the mammoth eucalyptus
trees and great olive orchards at Ellwood in the
Goleta Valley, the asphaltum works at Alcatraz
Landing, and the mouth of historic Gaviota Pass.
There are picturesque ranch houses of the old
days, also herds of grazing cattle and sheep, vast
fields of grain and mustard and sugar beets, the
largest vegetable and flower seed farms in the
world, and many other features, each adding inter-
est to the journey, b?:t which must be considered
minor attractions where so much is worthy.

San Luis Obispo is a city of four thousand popu-
lation, the business center of a rich valley. The
mountains overshadow it. The church of the old
mission of San Luis Obispo is here.

Northward from San Luis a climb over a spur of
the Santa Lucia Mountains, with numerous curves
in the track, presents from the car window a bird's-
eye view of the city and fertile valley in which it

Paso Robles (pass of the oaks) is a place of
wonderful mineral springs with a fine hotel and
bath houses. Not far away is Santa Ysabel ranch,
and Hot Springs. Salinas is a town of growing
importance. Near it is the great Spreckels beet
sugar factory, one of the largest in the world.

Paso Robles

A slight divergence from the main line at Cas-
troville will bring you to Hotel del Monte and the
famous old town of Monterey, on the southern
shore of Monterey Bay.

Monterey was the old capital of California in the
earliest period of Spanish rule. Here the forest
crowds upon the sea and mingles its odor of balm
with that of the brine. The beach that divides
them is broken by cliffs where the cypress finds
footing, and in the gentle air of a perfect climate
the wild flowers bloom profusely. Upon such a
foundation the Hotel del Monte, with its vast
parks of lawn and garden and driveway, covering
many hundred acres, is set, all its magnificence
lending really less than it owes to the infinite charm
of Monterey. Its fame has spread through every
civilized land, and European as well as American
visitors make up its throng. The hotel is located
in a scattering grove of 200 acres, a little east from
the town, and for lavishness of luxury and splendor
in construction and accessory has perhaps no superior.
It is a golfer's paradise with fine links, well-grassed
and kept in tip-top condition. The specific points
of interest are Carmel Mission, Pacific Grove,
Moss Beach, Seal Rocks, and Cypress Point.

The pretty city of Santa Cruz at the northern
end of Monterey Bay is reached from Del Monte
by a railway along the shore. It is also reached
direct from San Francisco by a line crossing the
beautiful Santa Cruz Mountains and passing
through the big trees (Sequoia semper virens).

It is San Francisco's most popular seaside resort
as well as a notable summering and wintering
place for many eastern people. There are good
hotels and ample facilities for enjoying the pleas-
ures of the sea.

An interesting industry of the place is the exca-
vation of asphalt from a small mountain of the
almost pure material.

By the main line again toward San Francisco
from Castroville one comes upon San Jose, the
Garden City, at the junction of the narrow gauge
line to Santa Cruz. The appellation Garden City
may be taken literally, for besides its urban beau-
ties, it lies in the center of the largest compact
orchard area in the world.

Perhaps there is not, in the whole of Northern
California, a town more attractively environed. It
is protected by mountain walls from every wander-
ing asperity of land or sea, a clean, iegularly plat-
ted city, reaching off through avenues of pine and
of eucalyptus, and through orchards and vineyards,
to pretty forest slopes where roads climb past rock,
glen and rivulet to fair, commanding heights. The
immediate neighborhood is the center of prune
production, and every year exports great quantities
of berries, fruits and wines. The largest seed-
farms and the largest herd of short-horned cattle
in the world are here.

Twenty-six miles east from San Jose is Mount
Hamilton, upon whose summit the white wall of
the Lick Observatory is plainly visible at that

distance. This observatory has already
become celebrated for the discovery
of Jupiter's fifth satellite, and gives
promise of affording many another /r

astronomical sensation in time to come. Visitors
are permitted to look through the great telescope one
night in the week, and in the intervals a smaller
glass sufficiently powerful to yield a good view of
the planets in the broad sunlight of midday is
devoted to their entertainment. It is reached by
stage from San Jose, the round trip being made
daily. Aside from the attraction of the famous
sky-glass, supplemented by the multitudinous and
elaborate mechanisms of the observatory, the ride
through the mountains to Mount Hamilton more
than compensates the small fatigue of the journey.
There are backward glimpses of the beautiful val-
ley, and a changing panorama of the Sierra, the road
making loops and turns in the shadow of live-oaks
on the brink of profound craterlike depressions.

The remainder of the coast-line trip to the
Golden Gate has already received brief mention
under title of Suburban San Francisco.


The high Sierras have been termed the American
Alps, and merit the appellation. Here are snowy
peaks that meet the sky along a thousand miles of
the California border, and, crowning all, Mount
Whitney, the loftiest
peak in the United

There are in this Sierra region mighty evergreen
forests, groves of the greatest and grandest trees in
the world, the Canyons of Kings and Kern Rivers,
Lassen Buttes, the Minarets, and numerous other
wonders. Not a mile of the gigantic mountain
ridge but is replete with interest. Among them
all, 'however, Yosemite is the best known and the
most easily accessible. It lies due east of San Fran-
cisco, at an elevation of 4,000 feet, and is reached
from Merced (a prosperous town on the Santa Fe
in the San Joaquin Valley); thence by the newly
constructed Yosemite Valley R. R. eighty miles to
the boundary line of Yosemite Park, ending with
a short and enjoyable stage ride of twelve miles.
The way is by Merced Falls and Pleasant Valley, up
the picturesque Canyon of the Merced River and
near the old-time mining town of Coulterville, to
El Portal. The entire trip may be made easily and
comfortably in about half a day.

The Mariposa, Merced and Tuolumne groups of
giant sequoias may be reached as a side trip.
These monster trees are from 25 to 30 feet in
diameter at base and are of fabulous age quite
the oldest living things on earth's crust. And there
is nothing finer in the Black Forest of Ger-
many than the great sugar pines near Hazel
Green. Yosemite Valley itself does not
disappoint. The floor is a parklike tract
about eight miles long by half a mile to a
mile wide. The Merced River frolics
its way through this mountain glade

and around it rise imperious walls
thousands of feet high.

As you enter, mighty El Capitan
rears its monumental form 3,200
feet at your left. It is a solid
mass of granite, taller than the
valley is wide at this point and
presenting two perpendicular
faces. On the other hand Bridal
Veil Fall is flinging cascades of
lacelike delicacy from a height of
950 feet, and in the far distance
you catch a glimpse of Half
Dome, Washington Columns and
the crests of the highest Sierra

The road leads on beyond
Cathedral Spires, Three Brothers
and Sentinel Rock, the valley
widens and Yosemite Falls appear,
with the Sentinel Hotel and the
little village at the stage terminus,
midway between the falls and Glacier Point opposite.

Beyond Glacier Point the valley angles sharply,
and in the recess thus formed Vernal, Nevada, and
Illiloutte Falls, Liberty Cap and Mount Broderick
are located, but are not visible from the hotel.

Looking east, Half Dome presents an almost per-
pendicular wall; at its base is Mirror Lake, and,
opposite, North Dome and Washington Arches.
The peak of Half Dome is 4,737 feet above

the valley floor, and 8,737 feet above
the sea.

The accessibility of Yosemite and
the comparative ease with which it may
be explored, add greatly to the enjoy-
ment of a visit. The hotel is well
managed and the charges reasonable.

The best time to go is in May and
June, when there is no dust and the falls
are full of water. The tourist season
usually begins the middle of April and
lasts until October, though one may go
in both earlier and later if desired. In
midwinter the snowfall is quite heavy.

There are excellent public camps, or you may
bring your own outfit and pitch tent almost any-
where, with reasonable limitations. There are tele-
phone and telegraph facilities, a general store and a
postoffice with daily mail. The custodian of the
valley resides here. The roads and trails have been
constructed by and have heretofore been kept in re-
pair by the State. Charges for guides, carriages, sad-
dle animals, etc., are regulated by a commission, and
there are no tolls. The entire Yosemite National
Park is now under control of the United States
Government. You may visit both the base and lip
of Nevada Falls, poise in mid-air from the over-
hanging rock at Glacier Point, gaze 4,000 feet below
from a parapet of Three Brothers or off to the
wilderness of peaks that lose themselves in the sky
to the eastward ; or you may pitch pebbles into
the gushing torrent of Yosemite Falls, where it
makes its dizzy leap over the cliff.

The glory of Yosemite has passed into litera-
ture. It lends to word-painting as do but few
of Nature's masterpieces. " Yet all the pens
that have essayed to describe it can have con-
veyed to you but little of its charm unless
you have visited the wonderful valley. Only for
those who have seen can the name conjure up
visions of a waterfall of filmy tracery that bends
and sways in the breeze, of a gigantic cliff that
stands at the portal a colossal greeting and fare-
well, of another fall whose waters plunge from a
far height half a mile above you.

It were idle to enumerate. No single feature
wins admiration. It is the harmonious whole,
blending majesty with color, form and action, that
woos all our senses with siren touch. It is not a
matter of height or breadth or mere bigness. The
Grand Canyon of Arizona outclasses Yosemite a
hundred times over in greatness and other-world-
ness. But here Nature is truly feminine ; she is
tender, gracious and becomingly gowned ; she puts
on little airs ; she is in the mood for comradeship.
For here are found song birds, gorgeous wild flowers,
rippling streams, grassy parks and
bowers of shrubbery and ferns.
These, quite as much as the bee-
tling crag or stupendous waterfall,
are the secret of Yosemite's hold
on the imagination. It is this sense
of the supremely beautiful incar-
nated which makes Yosemite the
desire of all travelers.

El Capita*.


Name. Meaning. Pronunciation.

Adobe, sun-dried brick Ah-do'-bay.

Alameda, shady walk (from
dlamos, poplars) Ah-lah-may'-dah.

Alamitos, small cottonwoods.Ah-lah-mee / -t6s.

Alcatraz, pelican AI-cah-trahs'. (In Mexico x

is pronounced like double s,
in Spain like th in think) .

Albuquerque Ahl-boo-ker'-kay.

Alejandro, Alexander Ah-lay-hahn'-dro.

Almaden, mine Al-mah-den'.

Alvarado, Spanish explorer ..Ahl-vah-rah/-d5.

Amador, lover Ah-mah-dor 7 .

Anita, Anna Ah-nee'-tah.

Antonio, Anthony An-to'-nee-o.

Arroyo Seco, dry ravine Ar-row'yo Say'-co (with the r

strongly trilled).

Bernalillo, little Bernal Behr-nal-eel'-yo.

Bernardino, little Bernard . . . Behr-nahr-dee'-no.

Boca, mouth Bo'-cah.

Bonita, pretty Bo-nee'tah.

Buena Vista, good view Bway'-nah Vees'-tah.

Cajon, large chest or box . . . .Cah-hon'.

Calaveras, skulls Cah-lah-vay'-rahs.

Caliente, hot Cah-lee-en'-tay.

Campo, country or field Cahm^po.

Canyon Diablo, Devil Canyon. Cahn-yon' Dee-ah/-bl6.

Capistrano, named from an

Indian saint Cah-pees-trah'-n6.

Carlos, Charles CarM6i.

Name. Meaning. Pronunciation.

Carmencita, little Carmen . . . Car-men-see / -tah.

Casa Blanca, white house. . . .Cah'-sah Blahn'-ca.

Centinela, sentinel Sen-tee-nay-'lah.

Cerrillos, little hills Ser-reel'-yos.

Chico, small Chee'-ko.

Cinaga, marsh See-en'ah-gah.

Colorado, red Ko-lo-rah'-do.

Conejo, rabbit Ko-nay'-ho.

Contra Costa, opposite coast . Kon'-trah Kos'-tah.

Coronado, crowned (named for
explorer) Ko-ro-nah'-do.

Corral, enclosure Kor-rahK.

Corralitos, small enclosures . . Kor-rahl-ee'-tos.

Covina, small cane . . Ko-vee'-nah.

Coyote, prairie wolf Ko-yo'-tay.

Del Norte, of the north Del Nor'-tay.

Del Sur, of the south Del Soor'.

Dos Palmas, two palms Dos PahK-mahs.

El Cajon, the large box El Kah-hon'.

El Capitan, the captain El Kah-pee-tahn'.

El Dorado, the gilded .El Do-rah'-do,

El Monte, the hill El Mon'-tay.

El Morro, the castle El Mor^ro.

El Paso, the pass El Pah'-so.

El Torro, the bull El To'-ro.

Encinitas, evergreen oaks En-see-nee'-tas.

Escondido, hidden ... Es-con-di'-do.

Estrella, star Es-treK-ya.

Parallones, small islands, high,
lough and difficult of ac-
cess Fah'-rahl-yon^-es.

Fresno, ash tree Fres x -no.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10

Online LibraryC. A. (Charles A.) HigginsTo California over the Sante Fé Trail → online text (page 10 of 11)