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TEXTILE WORLD JOURNAL

1917 KINK BOOK



LIBRARY



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1895



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1 1

I JVe Install I

I Cost Systems |

I and j

Cost Reducing

I Methods |

I in I

I TEXTILE, KNITTING I

I and HOSIERY MILLS |

I JVe supervise and take |

I INVENTORIES I



I Your Inquiry I

I is Invited |

I COOLEY & MARVIN CO. |

I Auditors : Accountants : Engineers |

I 709-712 TREMONT BLDG. - BOSTON |

I CHICAGO TORONTO |

i 513 Monadnock Building 39 Adelaide Street, East |

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/^nce the fabric is woven, we

^^ provide the machinery to
bleach, wash, dye, calender and
finish it in every way and in the
best way. Whatever your require-
ments, we bring to their consid-
eration an unusually complete ex-
perience.

H. W. Butterworth & Sons Co.

Established 1820
PHILADELPHIA

Providence Office, Turk's Head Bldg.

BiitGrworth



Textile World Journal

1917 KINK BOOK



Compiled from the columns of

TEXTILE WORLD JOURNAL
-BY-
CLARENCE HUTTON

( Technical Editor, Textile World Journal)



BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE COMPANY

PUBLISHERS

New York, U. S. A.



Copyright, 1917
Bragdon, Lord & Nagle Co

NEW YORK



FOREWORD






It has been a pleasure to compile this 1917 Kink
Book and make available in a convenient form for
handy use, the many kinks, formulas, recipes, tables
and other information it contains. In selecting the
material from the Questions and Answers Department,
and other sections of TEXTILE WORLD JOUR-
NAL, the aim has been to include the out-of-the-
way information that is most needed by mills and
their superintendents and overseers. Attention is
called to the carefully prepared index, following the
questions and answers, which will enable reference
to be made to subjects in the shortest possible time.

We believe that never before has so wide a range
of textile questions been answered in one volume.
There are, however, limitations to any book of
technical information. With changing conditions
and progress in the textile industry, new problems
are constantly coming up for solution, and the
editors of TEXTILE WORLD JOURNAL cordi-
ally invite subscribers to make use of its columns
and facilities for getting information required.

It is with a live sense of indebtedness that we
have drawn upon the knowledge and experience
of a large staff of contributors to the colunuis of
TEXTILE WORLD JOURNAL for the informa-
tion given in these pages, and grateful acknowledg-
ment is made to the men who have worked out the
kinks and other information and given them to
add to the sum of useful knowledge of their industry.

Textile World Journal

Bragdon, Lord & Nagle Co,
Publishers






Textile World Journal

1917 KINK BOOK



Checking Waste in Cotton Carding

Will you please answer the following questions : Should
card hands cut off one to two yards of the last end of the
lap and throw it into the waste can? Should speeder hands
or spinners take down roving bobbins when they have one
or two rounds of roving for the full length of the bobbin?

(2641)

We do not allow a card hand to cut off one to two yards
of the last end of the lap and throw it in the waste can as
this only makes unnecessary waste. Only a few inches is
necessary in order to make an even splice and prevent doubles
from entering the card. Speeder hands or spinners are not
allowed to take down roving bobbins having one or two
rounds of the roving full length of the bobbin. One row
at the most can be taken off, usually when the bare bobbin
is visible. In order to have a creel run out together on a
fly frame the pieces can be taken out and run up on a few
ends at the end of the frame where the tender can watch
them. WiNTON.

Two yards of lap torn off at the end seems excessive.
There should be enough taken off, however, to avoid having
any of the bunches or wrinkled end (due to the wrapping
of end of lap around lap roll in picker) going into the
card, as this is very liable to cause damage to the card
clothing and often being the cause of the so-called "raised
wires" on the cylinder. Of course the waste, even though
reworked, should be kept down to the lowest possible amount
and the question of how long a piece should be broken off
the lap is largely governed by the speed at which the cards
are running and the number of cards the operator has to
look after. It seems to me that a foot or a yard at most
would be plenty, but "Safety First" is a good motto here
for it is cheaper to rework a little waste than to replace card
clothing.

Two or three rows of roving is too much to take out
unless it is broken out to keep the bobbins in the creels
of uniform size. In this case, however, these pieces should
be run on the end of the frame. This applies on the speed-



Textile World Journal



ers, but not on the spinning frames, where a hand should
not be allowed to take pieces out until the bobbin is showing
and on medium to fine counts many places require the bob-
bins to be left in the creels until the hobbin is showing on
both sides of the roving. It is customary in most mills for
the spinners to cut off the pieces, but this should never be
allowed on the speeders. If the hands are unwinding the
pieces they are not apt to unwind two or three rows of
roving. In three processes of speeders the total roving waste
should not run over 1 per cent, of the production, and this
should include all waste from run over bobbins, etc., as well
as from the creelings. Kingston.

Weaving and Finishing Steamer Rugs

I am inclosing a sample clipped from a steamer or travel-
ling rug (shown at Fig. 1), with fringe attached. We would
like to know how this fringe is twisted and finished. We
would also like to know how this fabric is woven. Please
give a draft showing how it is constructed. (2743)

The draft for this cloth is shown at Fig. 2. As the draft
shows, the warp is dressed as follows:

1 face warp, 1 back warp, 1 face warp, 1 back warp, 1
cotton stitcher.

The draft repeats on 20 harnesses. It
is woven, 1 back filling, 1 face filling
and should be started as the chain is
marked.

This is a double cloth composed of two

2 up and 2 down fabrics, twilled to the

left, tied together with an extra cotton

warp. This extra cotton warp is stitched

to the face fabric once in every eight

picks of the face yarn, and to the back

fabric once in every eight picks of the

face yarn, as shown on the chain draft.

The fringe is made by pulling the

warp yarn through the reed (5 inches

for a 4-inch finished fringe) after the

rug is woven. After pulling through

the reed the amount required for the de-

^^^'- ^- sired finished fringe, weave five or six

picks and pull through the reed the same length of warp

as before. This is to make the fringe on the first end of

the next rug. As soon as these rugs are woven they are




8



1917 Kink Book



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Face Tlireads = 1,3,6,8,11,13,16,18.
Bade " = 2,4,7,9,12,14,17,19
Cotton warp Stitchers = 5,10,15,20

FACE PICKS = A.

BACK PICKa, = B.
FIG. 2.

put on a fringe twisting machine, which is adjustable for
different sizes of fringe, and then sent to the finishing room
to be finished. Hancock.

Knitting Hard Twist Yarn

We are inclosing a sample piece of knitted webbing and
our trouble will be apparent upon examination of same. It
seems that the white cotton yarn furnished on our order
this year has either been twisted too tight or is of the
wrong twist for satisfactorily knitting up in our machines.
Can you advise us of any way of correcting this defect or
of handling yarn in this condition satisfactorily? (2716)

The trouble in this case is due to nothing more or less
than a "yarn twist" in the yarn. I have raveled the sample
and find the bad spot is a double twist, that is, the yarn has
kinked once about half an inch and then doubled on itself. I
would not attempt to run this yarn in our mill, but if it must
be done I would suggest back winding on the bobbin and
steaming well in a steam box or conditioning machine, using
it while still damp, but not wet. Another idea is to run over
oiled cloth at or near the yarn guides, having tension enough
only to keep the yarn straight. Beyond this I can say no
more as the yarn is too hard for knitting purposes.

Trenton.



Textile World Journal

I have examined the inclosed fabric and find that the trouble
is mostly due to poor yarn. The yarn is evidently tw^isted too
much as it appears to kink while running in, and thereby
makes a lump by doubling up and making a thread of three
times the thickness it should be. Then I also find upon ravel-
ing the fabric that every eighth thread of cotton is much
heavier than the other seven, which caused the cordy ef-
fect at equal intervals, running around the fabric. As for
the white showing through the face, I think that is caused
in the knitting as it does not show through in short spaces
where the yarn seems smooth and even. This might be caused
by feeding in the worsted yarn too near the cotton, or by
not having the dial needles cast off freely. Sonoma.

Handling Accounts in the Wool Department

By Ralph H. Butz.

The best system of accounting for a woolen mill is that
which furnishes the required results for the least expenditure
of time or money. But what are the required results? They
may be stated in this manner; a complete knowledge of what
has been accomplished, and of what is being accomplished,
thus making it possible for the department of administration
to direct the affairs upon sound business principles.

It is imperative that the accounting department of the mill
should be required to show cost of production of the various
grades of material being manufactured. In this manner only
can the executive know whether he is making a profit on
certain grades and sustaining a loss on others. It is danger-
ous to use haphazard methods, and all estimates should be
verified to the minutest detail to see if they agree with the
actual production costs. Correct accounting principles rest
upon method. Method is not only the shortest way, but the
most efficient way to obtain the desired result.
Divisions of Business.

The first step necessary for the operation of a comprehen-
sive accounting system is a departmentalization of the busi-
ness. Each manufacturer can divide his business into a num-
ber of distinct departments, and many departments can be
subdivided to meet the various requirements. However, de-
partments should be subdivided according to the operations
of manufacture, and the accounts for each department should
be kept separate from those of other departments, because
in this manner the best and most satisfactory results can be
obtained.

10



1917 Kink Book

As an example of departmental methods we will consider
the operations of a woolen yarn mill. Under the old and
inefficient system in vogue in many mills the purchases for
the mill would he charged to such accounts as Wool, Sup-
plies, Wages and Expense Accounts. The finished product
would be credited to sales when such product had been
disposed of. Such a system is very simple, of course, but
it does not meet modern requirements. No effort is made
to keep a record of materials on hand, materials in process,
or cost of manufacturing yarns. Expenses are not dis-
tributed to the various departments and the manufacturer
can not know whether he is making a profit on all classes
of material, in fact does not know whether a profit has
been made until the annual closing of the books, and even
then there are possibilities that the figures do not represent
the exact status of the business.

Wool Department.

The wool department may be classed as that room or place
of storage where wool is kept before it enters into the process
of manufacture. This is usually called a store room or store
house, and should not be confused with the stock room or
stock house, in which the finished stock is kept before ship-
ment. The first account to be considered is the Inventory
Account. To this account is charged the value of stock of
wool in the store house at the time the periodical inventory
is taken, and at which time the mill operations are divided
into departments.

The second account in order is the Wool Purchases Ac-
count. To this account are charged all the purchases of wool
that are delivered to the store house. The cost of wool in-
cludes freight and cartage where such charges are incurred,
and a separate account for freight and cartage may be kept
as a subdivision of the Wool Purchases Account.

The third account incidental to this department is the
Labor Account. This includes all labor employed in the
storage house, and is a direct charge to wool before it leaves
the storage house.

The fourth is Overhead Expense. This is sometimes known
as Factory Expense or Manufacturing Expense. The proper
amount of overhead is charged to this account and is also
a charge to wool, each lot of wool being charged with its
proper amount of this expense. Overhead includes such items
as non-productive labor, heat, depreciation, land rent, etc.

We have now considered the charge or debit accotmts of



11



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Online LibraryClarence HuttonTextile world journal kink book (Volume 1) → online text (page 1 of 14)