Clement Kinloch-Cooke.

A memoir of ... Princess Mary Adelaide, duchess ofTeck : based on her private diaries and letters online

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Online LibraryClement Kinloch-CookeA memoir of ... Princess Mary Adelaide, duchess ofTeck : based on her private diaries and letters → online text (page 28 of 42)
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St. Moritz [writes Mr. Hoodl and the quiet weeks passed in
the Engadme, with the Ducness of York and a few chosen
friends, not only gave her renewed health and strength, but
permitted an entire freedom from all ceremonial and etiquette.
At St. Moritz Her Boyal Highness was foremost in planning
daily expeditions to the many beautiful spots which abound

^ The Prince was named Edward Albert Christian George Andrew
Patrick Dayid. In the family circle he is caUed Prince David.

' Miss Tnlhell, now Lady Monntstephen, had been recently appointed
Lady-in- Waiting to the Dnchess of Teck.

' The Honble. Derek Keppel, second son of the seventh Earl of Albemarle,
and Eqnerry to the Dnke of York.



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i894 LIFE IN THE ENGADINE. 281

in the neighbourhood, and it was a source of infinite delight
to her to revisit them and show a new-comer the different
points of interest. We went home with the carriage full of
wild flowers, which subsequently found their way into the
sitting and dining rooms. These expeditions were made in
<^bd ordinary one-horse carriages of the country, in one of
which would be the Princess and the Duchess of York,
with a gentleman on the box to keep an eye on the horse
and the coachman, and the remainder of the party followed
in similar conveyances. Princess Mary was well known
and beloved at St. Moritz ; she took part in any event going
on among the visitors, and showed much interest in all
that concerned the ii]^abitants. At a fire that occurred
during the visit in 1894, which entirely destroyed several
shops and houses, and threatened destruction to the lower
village, both the Princess and the Duchess of York took
active steps to rescue the goods from burning, carrying out
the things in their arms. They were the first to go among
the sufferers by the fire offering words of consolation, and
started a subscription in their aid.

Journal, — S6td Victaria, St, Moritz, Atigust 7. — Directly
" after breakfast I had a nice visit from Elizabeth of Hesse-
Anhalt and Landgrave Alexander, and early in the after-
noon, just as we were all busy arranging our sitting-room, the
Duchesse d'Aosta arrived ; she stayed some time, and after-
wards I went to her apartment, and remained chatting away
until past five o'clock. On returning I found our little
salon transmogrified into a most cosy snuggery by means of
our stuffs, cushions, and photographs. Had coffee to refresh
all the workers, and then, as &e day was not very inviting
and extremely gusty, kept May company indoors, and settled
down to write. Huge lovely baskets of carnations and other
flowers, the gift of Imid friends, were brought in. Supped at
8.30, and then played patience during a most disturbing and
very heavy thunder and hail storm. To bed in good time.
AtLgtcst 8. — In the morning May went out, and I, with
6ian,^ called on Madame de Planta at her delightful chalet,
Beturned to luncheon, and then May and I went down
to see Vera and her girls, hurrying up again to receive
H61^ne Mecklenburg-Altenburg ; ^ she has greatly aged and
altered in the 18 years during which we have not met. . . .

August 9.— Had breakfast rather late, and towards
noon joined May at the music in the wooden hall by the

' MiM TnfneU. ' A oousin of Prinoefls Mary's.



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382 ST. MORITZ AND STRATHPEFFER. 1894

Stahlbad. ... At three o'clock we started on an expedition
to the Beyers ThaL We drove on to the end of ^e road
through the valley, where a new restaurant ehdlet has been
built, and while May wrote to Geoige, I, with Gian and
Sidney, gathered flowers. To my delight, we found some of
the sweet wild pinks! Coffee'd, and set out homewards.
August 11. — . . . Had a visit fix)m Lord Alington, and
towards four I walked to the Kurhaus, to assist at a
Concert in aid of tibe French Church here and the Soci6t6
Evangelique of Geneva. Aleck of Hesse played the violin ;
Mesdemoiselles Buffet and de Planta sang; Madame Nie-
mann-Seebach recited ; and the entertainment closed with a
very pretty chorus of young ladies ! It was a great success,
and brought in over 3000 francs. . . .

Sunday, August 12. — To the Eoman Catholic Church at
10.30, to please Aleck of Hesse, who accompanied the organ
on h^ violin; a MdUe. Tiranti sang charmingly, and the
music was remarkably good. The Abbe NarveUo preached
quite a nice little sermon. . . . The Duchesse d'Aosta pre-
sented the Comte di Torino to us just before we went in.
Then hurried on foot to the French Church, for the end of
Buffet's sermon, Luther's hymn, and the blessing. ... At
3.16 we walked to the English Church for the afternoon
service, and had an excellent sermon from a Mr. Cardwell
on '' It is more blessed to give l^an to receive." . . . August
13. — Dear Dolly's birthday ! God bless him and make him
very happy. Wrote to him all the morning. . . . August 14. —
Shortly after breakfast I joined May on the promenade, and
while she was looking at miniatures at the Bazaar with
Hood, I walked up and down in front of the baths, part of
the time with Mrs. Freeman. Shopped at our Basque
friend's, and were there greeted by Mensdorff, who had
arrived the previous evening. Home soon aft^ noon to
receive Madame Ladenburg of Mannheim and the Lowen-
steins, and then walked to the Lac, where the AJingtons
gave us luncheon (to which they also bade Lady Powis,
Mensdorff, Lord Morris, and the Leo Bothschilds). The
company most agreeable ! Home about four, and, not feeling
up to another wcdk, let the others go off, but they took it very
fiano I afterwards discovered, and settled down to write a
volume to Gussy all about Dolly's engagement.^

August 17. — ^A pouring wretched morning I After break-
fiEust wrote up my Journal, wMle May went out and shopped.

^ Prinoe Adolphus had become engaged to Lady Maigaiet Groerenor,
daughter of the Duke of Weitminster.



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i894 AN EVENING PARTY. ^83

It began to clear about noon, and towards three we started
in glorious weather for a lovely walk; we went to the
end of the lake under the Meierei, then climbed np the path
through the wood, and taking the long round, descended
behind the Stahlbad Hotel. Back by five, and after writing
awhile, dressed for our party, and supped soon after seven.
At 8.15 we descended to the Damen Salon, which had been
lent us, and charmingly arranged by Hood and Keppel, and
there at 8.30 we received the Duchesse d'Aosta, Torino,
and their suites, Yera and her girls, H61^ne, Esy, Lady Powis,
AJingtons, Leo Bothschilds, Mensdorff, Count Schwerin, Yivi,
her niece, Michael and Fran von Arnim, and treated them
to a delightful entertainment I Hvidar Nachez played,
accompanied by Mr. Cliffe, Hflene Altenburg sang, and
Madame Seebach recited! Finally they all had tea and
coffee, sandwiches and cakes, and departed highly pleased.
(The ices, alas I never appeared !) We took leave of H^l^ne
and Esy, who were to go off in the morning, and remained
talking to the artistes until quite midmght, when we
peeped over the banisters at the ball guests till towards
one o'clock. . . . Heard from Sir Reginald Gipps that Alge
has passed I Hurrah I

Atigust 18. — Started before one o'clock for the Bos^,
Derek on our box. The air was fresh and the drive enchant-
ing, the new-fallen snow on the mountains glittering in
the sun ! As we reached the chdlet an eagle soared above
us ! the first I have ever seen on the wing. We walked
towards the glacier, which Hood and Derek set foot on,
while May and Mensdorff approached it, and Oian and
I did not get quite so far, though I went further on the
stony path than on former occasions. Eva and Sidney
climbed up to the meadow and gathered lovely flowers.
Alas ! as we turned back the weather began to obscure, and
as we neared the eh&let the first drops fdl, and the tops of
the mountains became shrouded in mist and snow. Such a
contrast to the glorious scene an hour previous ! Coffee'd in
a covered arbor ; wrapped ourselves up, for it had become
bitterly cold, and drove off homewards. Our horse shied
close by the bridge at a load of hay lying by the road and
turned round, and, but for Hood's quickness and presence of
mind, we might have been upset into the river. . . .

Befening to this incident, Mr. Hood says —

Princess Mary was calm and collected^ not showing any
fear; in fact, I may say that I have not seen her equanimity



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284 ST. MORITZ AND STRATHPEFFER. 1894

disturbed by any sudden personal danger or mishap. Her
Boyal Highnesses presence of mind on an emergency was
remarkable^ and I recall an occasion on which such was
especially the case. It occurred at the Fourth of June
Celebration at Eton when we were on the river at dusk. A
large steam launch ran into our launch almost at the spot
where Princess Mary was sitting, and had it not been for Mr.
Derek Keppel, who was also of the party, imceremoniously
dragging the Princess from her seat on to the deck, a serious
if not a fatal injury would have been caused, for the bowsprit
of the colliding laimch must have squeezed the Duchess's
head against the side of the cabin.

Jov/mal. — St Moritz, August 19, Swnday, — Pasteur Ruffet
preached a gloriously beautiful sermon on the conversion of
St. Paul, one which went to my heart and thrilled me through
and through ! I think I never heard him more eloquent, or
more impressive. When he drew a picture de la mere eon-
vertie, we felt he was addressing himself to us two a propos
of the bringing up of our precious baby. I came out quite
imotioimie and went for an hour's walk up a delightful path
behind the church, towards the Johaunesberg and Hahnensee
and back. After luncheon we had a very pleasant visit from
Mr. Oscar Browning, a Cambridge Professor, then walked to
our church for afternoon service. . . .

August 20. — Home before one o'clock to see Madame de
Montbiisson. Lunched, and a little after two we set out for
Pontresina, encountering by the Lac the Leo Eothschilds, and
arranged a picnic for next day if fine. . . . We drove on to
the Enderliner Hof, where we called on Countess Trani and
her daughter, Princess of HohenzoUem, who received us in
the Damen Salon. The mother has a great look of her
sisters in figure and face, and the daughter is pleasing, and
speaks English wonderfully well. . . .

August 21. — At 11.30 we left for Maloja. It was a
glorious St. Moritz day! the blue sky cloudless, the sun
delightful, and the air fresh. The Alingtons greeted us on the
perron, and came on with us. Changed carriages, and started
at once for the Cadloccio Lake. Our horse did not inspire
May and me with much confidence, as he kept neighing and
turning his head round to look for his stable companion, and
as we were d nous deux in our high, narrow Uttle carriage,
Hood and Derek, who were just behind, amiably jumped out
where the road became very narrow and stony, and walked on
either side. We got out at the steep ascent, and walked up



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i894 GATHERING FLOWERS. 285

and on some way, but I drove the last easy bit. The Leo
Bothschilds, our entertainers, welcomed us at the very spot
once the scene of the Mundella luncheon in 1887 ! and we
found a most excellent picnic repast prepared for us. ... On
our way home we waited at Silvaplatz a few minutes for the
diligence, by which dear Alge was a passenger, and brought him
back with us. He looks so well, and is delighted to be here.

August 23. — Soon after lunch we started for Sils Maria,
where we walked along the gorge and by the Fex to the water-
fall, gathering the sweet pinks and lovely flowers by the way.
It had been chilly and cloudy when we set out on the expe-
dition, but the sun came out and the day brightened up
delightfully. Betraced our steps to the foot of the hill, and
drove up and on to the Fex Thai, alighting at the last restau-
rant. May and I, leaving the others to climb for edelweiss,
walked some way along the valley, much intriguSes by a
lady in black, closely veiled with a thick brown veil I with
a very pretty little girl dressed all in white. She was either
Englijsh or American, for I spoke to the chUd, and she —
the mother— answered. Shortly afterwards it came on to
pour. . . . Dressed, and at eight o'clock to the Lac to dine
with the Leo Kothschilds ; we were a party of 17 — our eight
selves, Mensdorflf, the Alingtons, Lady Powis, Lord Morris,
and the Edmond SothschUds of Paris, she a daughter of the
Willy Eothschilds of Frankfort. The band played afterwards.

Sunday, August 26. — ^Very hot day. Et&fet more impres-
sive than ever ; the whole service altogether sehr erhebevd, . . .
Saw Bartell about our journey; tafited future plans over
with May, and signed photos. We lunched a nous 4, dames !
all our heaux having gone with Mensdorff to the Bemiaa.
Then h£ul a visit from Mr. Harvey Pechell and Lady Ampt-
hill, and later drove with Gian, poor Eva being unwell, to
tea with Mrs. Freeman, where we met Winifred Gardener ^
and Margaret Herbert. . . . Home about 7.30. August 29. . . .
Went out shopping with May to pay bUls. At a quarter
to one — fire ! Stayed out trying to help till two.*

Letter to the Duchess of SutherlaTid.

Vma Seefeld, September 15, 1894.

My DBAS MiLLY, — . . . We have had a most delightful

three weeks' sijour up at beloved St. Moritz, favoured on the

whole by the weather, and when May had to return home I

joined the Duke at Friedrichshafen. ... I expect to be

> Kow Lady Bturgholero. * See p. 281.



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286 ST. MORITZ AND STRATHPEFFER. 1894

home again in about ten days, and am looking forward to
seeing my little grandson and in haying him Sn to myseJf
for nearly a fortnight. How have yon been spending the
autumn ? I hope pleasantly. We have very happy accounts
of our young couple ! Meg^ is at present staying at Saighton
to be near Dolly, who is quartered at Leeds. Later on I
hope she will come to see us for a bit, as I am longing to get
to know my future daughter-in-law more intimately. The
wedding is fixed, D.V., for the 27th of November, and will, I
understand, take place at Chester Cathedral. How nice it
would be if you were bidden to it I And now I must take
my leave, once more expressing my extreme regret at having
to fail you, when I would so willingly have helped you and
Lady Dartmouth in your good work for Uie county of
Stafford, remaining ever, with kind regards to the Duke, very
affectionately yours,

Mabt Adblaede.

On the Princess's return to White Lodge she writes to
Miss Thesiger (October 9) : —

... I have been so busy since our arrival here, every
leisure moment being taken up with darling Baby, whom
I found wonderfully grown and "come on" during my
seven weeks' absence, that I could not fix a day for you
to come down until this, and now, alas ! you are taking flight !
I do not know when you may be back. The Westminsters
are coming up to town for a week to-day, after which
Margaret is to pay us a visit, to which I am much looking
forward. Sunday evening and yesterday I was with May,
who is looking her best. She will be in town again on the
25th, B.V., and hopes to come to us at the end of the month,
for her share in the Guild work. I miss Baby sadly. . . .
St. Moritz, as usual, has worked wonders for me, and I am
told I am looking, and I am most certainly feeling (uiiberufen),
particularly well and fresh ! quite rajewnie! I only hope
the wear and tear of my daily life here will not undo all the
good effects of my holiday ! . . .

Letter to Mrs. Alexander.

White Lodge, December 6, ISM.

... I thank you with all my heart for your very kind
good wishes on &e approaching marriage of our eldest son,
which, as he and Miurgaret are so thoroughly happy and
' Lady Margaiet Grogyenor.



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1894-5 THE LITTLE GRANDSON. 287

devoted to each other, affords qb very great pleasure. . . .
The sad and most sudden death of the D^e's last surviving
sister obliged us to postpone the wedding for a fortnight, but
we hope it will take place on Wedne^ay next, the 12th,
when I shall ask yifjiu. to give us a kind thought and to pray
for our dear boy's^ happiness. We are, D.V., leaving for
Eaton on Saturday. * . .

May has been spending ten days with me — ^such a joy to
us both — and last week I accompanied her to Windsor, and
saw my darling little grandson, who is very much grown
and extraordinsudly precocious for five months, and r^dly a
remarkably fine child! I am, as you may imagine, not
a little proud of him ; and seeing that he was bom at the
White Lodge, christened here, and spent the first three
months of his life under our roof, it is but natural that I
have come to look upon him as almost my very own !

Alas ! early in the coming year we have to part with our
much-loved youngest son, Alexander, who has to join his
Segiment, the TtSi Hussars, in India. I dread the long
separation; for next autumn the 7th are probably to be
moved to the Cape, and it may be three years before he
returns to England. It is an awful wrench, and I scarcely
dare trust myself to think of it.

Letter to MadaToe Bricka.

LadyweU, Boundhay, Leeds, 8 Janvier, 1895.
ChJirb HfeiiiNE, — . . . Je suis enchantfe de cette charmante
petite maison que notre cher Dolly a arrang6e avec un godt
exquis ! et que je voudrais pouvoir transporter d'un coup de
baquette la ot, le sort les mdnera. Nous n'avons pas 6t6
trop favoris6 par le temps mais la pluie a fait tant de Men,
que nous ne nous en sommes plaints et autant plus que bier
et Samedi nous avons pu faire une jolie promenade Taprfes-
midi Nous avons 6t6 Samedi a Temple Newsam, le chateau
trha ancien de Mrs. Meynell Ingram, voir la maison et hier
voir le jardin et le pare tout parsem^ de rhododendrons ! et
atgourd'hui nous avons d6je^6s a la caserne et ensuite assistds
au jeu de Polo des officiers. Toujours et toute a vous.

Maby Ajdelaids.

Letter to the Honlle. Mary Thesiger.

York Oottage, Sandringham, Ja&naxy 20, 1895.

. . . The addition to the Cottage is just what was required
to make it perfect and thoroughly comfortable. May has



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288 ST. MORITZ AND STRATHPEFFER. 1895

now a Gharming boudoir (a sanctum om^ to herself !) npstairs,
next to her bedroom, while the gentlemen have a most
delightful billiaid-room at the end of all things, which is
quite the making of the house. The little drawing-room
iautrefoU is now converted into a sitting-room for the
ladies, the former dining-room having become the drawing-
room, and a charming new dining-room has been bmlt,
immediately over which is my bedroom — such an enchanting
room — with a round bay-wiadow ! The nurseries are pretty
rooms in the older part of the Cottage. We have not been
favoured by the weather, but Friday made up for all by its
glorious sunshine, and we took advantage of it to drive to
Lynn. . . . Alge telegraphed his safe arrival at Malta, and
to-day he ought to reach Port Said. . . .

JowmaL — White Lodge, August 24 — ^Worked in Ma/s
room till past ten, and after IVands had gone to town got
together photographs and packed. . . . Towards evening I
went roimd the garden with Lindsay, and worked on m the
drawing-room and lastly in May's old sitting-room till
nine, when we had dinner; afterwards sorted letters and
ticketed papers till 1.30 ! August 25. — Up early, and went
on arranging my papers all the morning. George, Davidson,
and Colonel Williams lunched, and when they had left I put
away things in May's old bedroom . . . then dressed, and
at a quarter to seven left for Euston Square, where Oian
met me; Dolly and Edgar saw us off in a very fairly
comfortable carriage of three compartments, the centre a
sleeping one. At Crewe Fell^ joined the train, and we
supped out of our basket. I then laid down and slept till
Perth, where we breakfasted in the train. The night had
been chilly and rainy, but the day improved as it went on,
and we greatly adnured the pretty Scotch scenery. ... At
Dingwall we had quite a reception, with kilted band, and a
simUar welcome awaited us at Strathpeffer. Drove up to
our nice clean Hotel in a carriage and four, and settled our
rooms. . . . Paid Lady Warwick (Dowager) a long visit, she
being in bed, and saw Lady Mackenzie ckez Me, Tea in my
room, and began to stow away my goods and chattels ; then
wrote till dmner-time, and afterwards more stowiog away
until I retired about eleven.

Strathpeffer, August 27. — • . . Gave Francis Ids presents,
and helped him with his telegrams. In the afternoon I
walked to Strathpeffer village with Gian, meeting Lady

' PiinoeBB Mary's seoond dresser.



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i895 BRAHAN CASTLE. 289

Warwick and Louis Greville; called on Louisa Lady
Ashburton, who gave us tea, and at six o'clock we walked
on, exploring the little town, getting back at seven or so,
after meeting Lady Forbes on the hill. . . . August 29. — Up
before eight, and down to breakfast, which Francis shared,
about 10.30 ; wrote hard at my Lidian letter all the very wet
morning, and saw Cameron, MacdufTs piper; continued my
letter after lunch till tea-time, and a£ seven o'clock dined in
the coffee-room with Lord Badnor and Queenie, Colonel
Gordon and Mr. Hulse, afterwards attending the concert and
tcMeaux in aid of the organ fund for Scotch Established
Church — a most creditable performance. August 30. — . . .
At one o'clock drove d nous trais to Brahan Castle, to lunch
with Julia Lady Tweedale, in fair weather, and foimd quite a
large party staying there. Alas ! it came on to pour with
rain, so Lady Tweedale showed us the Ubrary, her own rooms
and her brotiier's. Colonel Mackenzie ; we were photographed
on the verandah by Sir Henry Thompson, and sat out diere
till tea-time. Home towards seven.

September 1. — ... To Scotch Established Church at
eleven — very nice service and sermon, and three of our
hymns. Betumed to the Hotel and started for Brahan,
where we lunched — a party of twenty-eight, at three tables.
Lord John Hay and Lord Badnor sitting next me. After-
wards we walked through an enchanting dell and along by
the river — ^rhododendrons planted the whole way by a Lady
Seaforth — driving back with Julia Lady Tweedale, and on to
the garden and kitdien garden. Tea, and home by a quarter
to seven. Bested and dined in coffee-room, and in the evening
Lady Skelmersdale, Lady Saltoun, and Lady Folkestone sat
with us till ten, lee hovrmes looking in just before we retired
at 10.30.

September 2. — Most heavenly day! Lady Ashburton
called for us, and towards noon we started a trois for Loch
Leuchart. We drove through Coul, Sir Arthur Mackenzie's
place, and turned off on the road to Achitty, crossed the
Blackwater river, passed the falls of Bogie, and through very
pretty scenery, birch woods and fern, to Garve, where Mr.
Hanbury gave us a Highland welcome with pipes, flags, and
cheers; our horses were taken out^ and the men drew the
carriage down to the Inn where the Hanbury family were
assembled, and a granddaughter presented me with a lovely
bouquet, the school-girls having given me bunches of heather
and staghom moss. After changing horses we drove on
through wilder and more mountainous scenery and much
VOL. n. u



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290 ST. MORITZ AND STRATHPEFFER. 1895

heather, by Lochs Garve and Leuchart to the htmtiDg Lodge
which Lady Ashbnrton had let to two Mr. Taylors for this
season. We entered the grounds through an arch of heather
with "Welcome" over it, and were received at the honse by
Mrs. J. B. Taylor and Mrs. Frank Taylor. The walls of the
drawing-room are covered with gems and interesting pictures
and drawings, some by Lady Waterford and dearest Marian
After going over the house, which is most comfortable, and
has such lovely views, conducted by Lady Ashbnrton's head
man Mackenzie, we walked down to the loch and boat-house,
and np to the delightful kitchen garden. Left again towards
five, and drove back the same road, admiring the lights on the
mountains all the way, as far as the first cottages at Gkrve,
where we turned off to the left, and, crossing the rocky bed of
the Blackwater by a pretty bridge, entesed Mr. Banbury's
domain. The strains of the bagpipes which greeted us on our
arrival at his shooting Lodge rather alarmed our horses. • . .
After tea Mr. Hanbury drove us across the ford in his strong
waggonette, and at the little Inn at Garve we entered our
carriage again, reaching home about eight . • .

September 3. — ... At three we drove to Castle Leod, which



Online LibraryClement Kinloch-CookeA memoir of ... Princess Mary Adelaide, duchess ofTeck : based on her private diaries and letters → online text (page 28 of 42)