Doran & Nelson Goldsberry.

The National garment cutter online

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To lay off patterns, and to cut, fit and make gar-
ments of every description, which will conform in
all cases with the prevailing fashion and fit prop-
erly, is by no means an undesirable attainment. It
is one that any lady of limited means will find a
valuable and economic fraction of her domestic ed-
ucation ; to the really poor such a knowledge is a
necessity, and to those of larger means an ability
to superintend the cutting, fitting and making up
of their own and their children's clothing, with a
perfect knowledge that the result will be satis-
factory, will, we know, in most cases, prove an
agreeable occupation.

But little can be said to recommend such knowl-
edge that will not be apparent to the most careless
observer ; many in straightened circumstances have
felt the absolute need of it, and many others have
but to see the ease with which such knowledge can
be attained, and with what simplicity the work
can be done, to reach out a now waiting hand to
welcome its introduction as a harbinger of good in-
to their household.

The system of cutting and fitting which we in-
troduce herewith, is designed with the intention of
fully meeting this long felt want, and of doing 60
in the simplest and most perfect possible manner.
It completely revolutionizes the art of cutting, and
with it and the books that will be issued to ac-
company it, any person can readily lay off any
garment worn by men, women or children, of any
size, and fully as well fitting and fashionable as
can be done by either tailor or dressmaker.

There are already in the market very many sys-
tems of cutting garments, more or less expensive,
and all imperfect in many respects, some are
adapted to only men and boys clothing, some only
to ladies' dresses, (generally the waist or basque
only) others onby to skirts, and a very few to child-
rens' clothing ; some combine a system of cutting
several garments, but most of all are confined to

the narrow limit of but one, with no range i or if
any, a very limited one) of style. None have ever
before reduced the art of cutting everything worn
to but one system, and rendered that one bo simple
that a child can understand, and with hut few in-
structions successfully operate it. This we claim
for our system alone, the one great desideratum to
which none other has attained, and which renders
it so entirely beyond all others as to make compar-
ison out of the question, Our range of garments
and styles is unlimited ; anything worn can be rut.
and any fashion ever designed will be within its

It is in itself so entirely complete that even the
most elaborate trimming can be cut and any style
of drapery is rendered easy and simple to the un-

To the expert tailor or dress maker who is now
working with some dearly purchased and labor-
ously learned system of cuttiug, we ask you too.
to Iook carefully into the merits (and demerits if
you can find any) of our plan ; see how much more
complete and in every way handy it is than the
one you are now using ; be candid in making your
decision, and recollect, if you can do excellent
work with what you now have with its imper-
fections, you can do the same work more easily,
quickly, and possibly more perfectly witli a more
perfect system. To your experience and knowl-
edge we know that we can add that whieh will en-
able you to do your work with better satisfaction
to yourself than you have hitherto done.

There are very few into whose hands this system
will fall but what know somethinir of cuttinir and
fitting ; we shall, however, presume that everyone
purchasing it is a novice, and make our instruc-
tions in cutting and fitting, and making up, so
simple, explicit and thorough, that all will fully
understand them ; therefore, carefully read the
general directions on the following pages.


w ( mold raeeommand bn ill i'''* 1 '* that pattarMof papa:

l>c tut from winch t. . OUt tin- garment*; ■ DM experi-
enced I't-rsnii need not alwaysdothla, but it randan mla-
impoaaible, and ■ pattern ansa made when properly
i laid away, will very often 1k> found of nee and a
.• of time,
ion pattern there la a diagram which la naly but
a pattern In miniature, and which baa bat U
and in i modified, t.i beooaM a complete pat-

tern. The principal line la the rertica] one, at thi

mi; it la the flnt line drawn on, and from
it all measorementa an taken and laid oil . f"r thii
; a the "base line," and it will In all oa
spoken of bj that name.
The inatrumenta tor laying oil pattarna or garments

R with
\ - . i ending with No. 46, fourteen in an, an
with two Dumben printed In each role, and a

j tooL The pond with, and the proper

one to use is selected by the measure in inches of the per>
smi for whom t he garment is to be made. The measure

of the penon la taken as directed for the garment being
cut; tor example, you wish to cut a ahirt pa tt e rn , yon

turn to the directions and read M follows; " Measure

around the | l lie vest, drawing the tape line

rely tight; select the acale oorreeponding with the

measurements and use it m laying otT the entire pattern,
etc.;" that is, if the measure In inches is ::7. takl
01 If it should chance to be [■?■> inches tab
be the measure in inches use u •

of the same Dumber; the
the entire garment.

ll.i . .rmeiit attach

It to si i it under the clamps on the

longer blade, with the end on winch the Brat

witfa the angle formed by the intersection of

the i. lades, a more perfect understanding of its position

moaning cut No. l. which

/ I IK .




\<l. 1.

S \^W*a


( down lo /'»• um Um






shows the square with scale attached. First, in position
to commence work ; and second, moved down to draw'a
cross or measure line, which will be explained hereafter.
To lay off any pattern, first place your paper so it lays
lengthwise from right to left. Always hold your square
and use it with the long blade laying from right to left
and the short one projecting from you, that is with the
intersection of the two blades of the square at your right
hand; draw a line on the edge of the paper nearest you,
as long as will be required for the pattern, taking care to
draw it straight and continuous, that being the "baseline- "
then draw another perpendicular to it across the end of
the paper at your right hand, marked in the cut above
" top measure line. " Place your square exactly in the
angle formed, and with the diagram before you, mark
such points as are located on the base line therein, on the
base line you have drawn, using the figures on the diagram
as an index by which to locate them. If any of the num-
bers be higher than ten (which is the limit of each scale)
mark ten, move your scale down as is shown by the sec-
ond position of the square in the cut above and continue
till all points are located on the base line.

Take for example a shirt back ; after drawing the base
line and the one across the end of the paper, lay your

square as directed and proceed to mark the points as fol-
lows : First i, next 6f , then mark ten (the end of the
scale) move your square down to this point and mark Hi,
then 13, then 19f , then the end of the scale again making
20 ; move the square down again and mark 2&J; again
mark the end making 30 ; mark another i making 30i
spaces from the point where the lines above intersect,
which is the last point on the base line ; it is advisable to
mark your points to be used in drawing and those where
the scale ends differently ; for instance, the former with a
dot, the latter with a small cross ; this will prevent con-

Next proceed to lay off the perpendiculars from each of
these points where there is one dotted on the diagram,
using the short blade of the square for the purpose, and
keeping the long blade exactly on the base line in all cases.
Observe 'in doing this that not all the points located on
the base line have.dotted lines drawn from them, some
are merely located to cut to ; this is the case in nearly all
patterns and it is well to avoid drawing lines from such
points as confusion may result from superfluous lines so
drawn. Having drawn this last line, change the scale to
the short blade of the square as shown in the cut No. 2


No. 2.


and placing the Bquare in its first position locate such
points as an- shown OH the top measure line inthedia-
grara. measuring from itu bast line. Should any point be
greater than 10 move the Bquare out from the base line
aim locate it as shown in the second position, move the
square down to the second measure line and locate the
points on it as you did those on the first, and so proceed
until all points in the diagram are located on the pattern
you are drawing. Fill in from point to point, drawing

straight lines with the square, and curves with the curved
drafting tool provided for that purpose, until the pattern
is complete.

The various positions of the curved drafting tool for
different parts of patterns are shown in the accompany-
ing drawings, a full study of which will be very useful to
the beginner as nearly every application of it is there


These directions apply to all patterns. The manner of
laying off all is essentially the same, and when any devi-
ation is necessary it is noted in the directions for the
pattern where such change is needed.

Cut your goods exactly the size of the pattern. Make
no allowance in any garment or pattern for seams, and
take up only as much seam in making up as directed ;
recollect a fraction of an inch taken up on each seam in
any garment will make no small difference in its lit.

Care must be taken to mark all points correctly ; do not
be careless in locating points or drawing lines, for the fit
of the garments depend entirely upon the accuracy with
which the work is done. Keep your square in its proper
position and draw all lines on which measurements are
made exactly perpendicular to the base line. In cutting
goods with a nap care must be taken to have it run to-
wards the bottom of the garment.

The following cut illustrates the manner of taking the
various measurements that are sometimes needed to veri-
fy a pattern ; the first cuts here taking the bust measure,
second the length of the waist, the third the length of the
sleeve. The position of the tape line and the points from
which measurements are taken should all be studied care-
fully. In basque patterns, &c, the scale selected by the
bust measure regulates the fit of that portion of the gar-
ment. It is always best to test the pattern before filling
in the curves and other lines. For instance, you are cut-
ting a basque pattern you take the measure of the length

of the waist and measure the base line of the bottom for
the back between the points representing the back of the
neck and waist, see if they are the same as the actual
measure of the person you are fitting, if not, raise or
lower the waist line as the case may require, taking care
not to change any of the other lines in so doing and
placing the figures on that line the same distance from
the base line as shown in the diagram, that is, the line is
changed but not the position of the points on the line.
Also test the waist and make the alteration if any, neces-
sary by enlarging or contracting the under-arm dart. In
measuring for the sleeve deduct the width of the back
and shoulder seams and see if the length to the elbow and
cuff make up the difference as shown by the tape line ■
if not, lower the elbow and cuff lines to lengthen the
sleeve ; if too long, raise them. In case the waist line in
the lack is raised or lowered it is always necessary to
make the same change in the waist line in all the other
parts of the garment; for this' reason ahcays lay off the
pattern for the back of all garments first.

The careful attention of the beginner should be given
to the general directions, aad by a strict adherence to
them a perfect fit of any garment shown to any person,
no matter what their form may be, can invariably be had.'
It is only necessary to be accurate in your work to be sat-
isfied with it when finished, Carelessness will in this as
with anything else generally result in wasted effort.

r~T'i j



Use the bust measure in laying off this
pattern, selecting the scale and proceeding
in accordance with the general directions.
It is in four pieces, as follows: Back and
side-back in one, front and two sleeve por-
tions. In cutting the goods, place the pat-
tern for the back with the back edge of its
skirt on a lengthwise fold of the goods to
avoid a center seam. Cut the other sorts
lengthwise. In making up the garment,
turn under the front of the right side at the
point marked H, and that of the left side
about H space less for hems. Close the
seams in the back and fasten the extra
fullness at its termination in a double box-
plait underneath, with the edges of the
plaits together. Also fasten the extra
width at the side-back seam in a backward
turning plait underneath. Cut a standing
collar or binding for the neck from a
straight piecee of the goods and attach it
to the garment. Sew a pocket to each
front. Close the seams in the sleeve and
sew them in with the outside seams of
each at the back of the arms-eye, and the
extra width in a forward turning plait un-
der the arm. Hold it toward you while
sewing it in. Close the front with button-
holes and buttons, attaching the buttons
to the left front. If desired, the hems
may be fastened permanently together
from a little below the waist. Bind the
edges of the pockets and attach a row of
three buttons to the wrists of the sleeves
in front of the outside seam. Lace-plait-
ing, ruffles or flat bands may be used for
trimming with pleasing results.

Quantity of material required : 22 inches
wide, 7f yards ; 36 inches wide, 5} yards ;
48 inches wide, 3£ yards ; No. of buttons, 32.

LADIES* SHORT /'/,*/ \< LSS DRESS.-Continued.



1 • i c



b y A - ,



This pattern is laid off by the bust
measure, the scale selected thereby. and
in accordance with the general direc-
tions. It is in eight pieces, as follows :
Back and back-drapery in one, front,
under-arm gore, side-back, collar, front
drapery and two pieces of the sleeve.
In cutting the goods lav the. square end
of the ' pattern for collar on a length-
wise fold of the goods to avoid a center
seam. Cut the side-back and under-
arm gore with the waist line in pattern
of each, numbered respectively 81 and
6i, on a cross thread of the goods. Cut
the front drapery with its longest
straight edge, the back with either edge
of its drapery, the front with its front
edge, the larger sleeve portions, with
the points of its shortest lengthwise
curve, and the smaller sleeve portion
with its upper half, all laid lengthwise
of the goods. (The side of the back
drapery cut at the base line is the left
side.) "In making up the goods turn
under the right front as far back as the
point marked H for a hem, and under-
facethe left front a trifle farther. Close
the seam of the back, and fasten the
extra fullness at its termination in a
double box-plait underneath. In the
right side edge of the back drapery
make two upward-turning plaits, as
shown by extreme ends of lines drawn
at figures 24i and 29i on the base line,
and in the left side make seven plaits
as shown by two numbers given above
five others below them. Tack the
lapped lower edges of the front perma-
nently. Turn three upward-turning
plaits in the left end of the front drap-
ery. Turn two similar plaits in the
right end, join the top of this drapery
to the lower edges of the fronts, under-
arm gores and side-backs with its cen-
ter at that of the front ; also join its
plaited ends to the corresponding ends
of the back drapery. Fasten the extra
width at each side-back seam in back-
ward turning plait underneath, sew the
collar to the neck with its center at the
center seam in the back, then turn it
up and fell the lining over the seam.
Close the seams in the sleeve and attach
it to the garment with the outside seam
at the back of the arms-eye. Hold the
sleeve towards you while sewing it in,
and fasten the extra fullness in a for-
ward-turning plait under the arm.
Close the front with buttons and but-
ton-holes. Decorate the loose edges of
the front drapery with rows of braid,
fastening one end of each row under the
loose edge, and terminating the other in
a loop about four inches from the edge.
Trim each front with horizontal rows
of braid, terminating the ends for that
from center in loops. Trim the wrists
of the sleeves with upright rows of
braid, fastening one end of each row
under lower edge, and terminating the
other in a loop about four inches above,
or any preferred decoration may be


LA DIES' POL. I X. I IS E.-Con tin ued.


To lay off this garment, take the bust measure in inches, select the scale the number which cor-
responds therewith, and proceed by the general directions. The diagram shows three pieces of the
pattern— night dress, collar and sleeve. Cut the goods with the shortest end of the collar pattern
on a lengthwise fold of the goods ; the night dress with the front edge of its pattern, and the sleeve
with its pattern laved lengthwise of the goods. In making the garment turn under the frout «dges of
night dress portion at the point markedly fur the leftside, and about one-quarter space les6 for the
right Bide. Take up all seams evenly. Attach collar with its ceuter at the seam in the back, then
turn it up, felling the liningover the seam and turning its corners over at the points marked J4, 1
andP.j. Close the seams of the «leeves and attach them to garment with the inside seam at the
front of the arms-eye. Hold the sleeve toward you while sewing it in, and fasten any extra fullness
in a pleat turning forward under the arm. Close with buttons and buiton-holes, making the latter
in tin- wiili- hem. Trim with torchon lace, embroidery, braiding, or in any other manner desired.Q

The garment may be made any length by taking measure with tape line, laying oft pattern.there-
bv. All seamsandhems are allowed lor. Quantity of material required: 36 inches wide, 4' 8 vards.
No. buttons 19.


This uattern is lavcl ofl by the bust measure and as described in the
senera .1 " < ma ft is in three pieces, front, back and sleeve. En cufc-
^tte^djjlace the pattern for the back with its back edge on a
lenethwile fold of the goods to avoid acenterseam; cut the other two
Slrarthwise of the goods, to making up turn under each fronte at
I , p oi i" : xked i for a hem; closethe seWa ol thesleevesand attach
. u i ,' ,u of thegarmenl with their inside the fron oi
thfarais-eveT hold the sleeves toward yon while sewingthem

,, 'e n : ;, . In.- in a forward turning pleat under the arm, and
:,;':. i !' ,n"!t 'v,ih button-holes andbuttons I. the garment ismade
of flannel cut the neck and lower end oi thealeevesin Bcollops and Qn-
ish ' u' iw ithl . tto .-l...le Stitching, alsoembroider a dot to the center o
■ •!■ M-'llnV. If desired the neck ..kin be cut out and the sleeves cut
and P aie edges finished as above described, k or in any more pleas-

"'" ouauiiu of material required: Z7 in' wide.W yds ; 86 in. wide, 3 yds.
No. buttons 17.


This pattern is in nine pieces, as follows: Front, gore for front, front skirt,
back, side-back, collar, pocket lap, and two sleeve portions. It is all layed off by
the bust measure and in accordance with the General Directions. In cutting the
goods, cut the collar bias, cut the back with the back edge of its skirt, the front
skirt with its longest straight edge, and all the other pieces with the patterns laid
lengthwise of the goods. There will also be required three small straps about
two spaces long and one and one-half spaces broad, with one end pointed by cut-
ting off the corners. In making up the garment, turn under each front skirt at
the point marked 1+ for a hem. Take up the darts in the front and close other
seams, leaving that in the center of the back till the last, in closing that com-
mence at the top and close it to the extra fullness. Turn under all the extra
width and one-fourth space more on the left side for a hem ; lay the extra width
of the right side under the hems thus formed and tack its top. Arrange a pocket
lap on each front skirt. Under-face the front edges of the gores for the front.
Join the top of a front skirt to the lower edge of the front, gore and side-back at
each side with the front edge of the skirt as hemmed even with the faced edge of
the gore and fasten the extra width at each side-back seam in a forward turning
pleat underneath. Make a button-hole in the pointed end of each strap and sew
the square end of the straps underneath to the hem of the left back, at equal
distances apart. Sew corresponding buttons to the extra width of the right back and fasten these extra widths together
with the straps and buttons. Join the wide ends of the collar, attach it to the neck and roll it and the fronts over in their
proper positions. Close the seams of the sleeves and sew it in with the outside seam at the back of the arms-eye. Hold
the sleeve toward you while you sew in and fasten its extra fullness in a pleat turning forward under the arm. Close the
fronts in double-breasted style with buttons and button-holes, making an extra button-hole in each lappel and attaching a
corresponding button to each front. Face the collar and lappels. Finish the loose edges of the pocket-laps and outline a
round cuff on the sleeve with two rows of machine-stitching. Also machine-stitch the front edge of each side-back pleat to
position. Place a button at the top of each side-back pleat and two on the upper side of the wrist of the sleeve in front of
the outside seam. Any desired decoration may be adopted. All seams and hems are allowed for.

Quantity of material reqired : 22 inches wide, 6f yds; 48 inches wide, 31 yds; 51 inches wide, 31 yds; No. buttons, 18.

LADIES' COAT.-Contui tied.


This pattern is layed off by the bust measure, and is in
eight pieces— front, back, side-back, collar, two pocket
laps and two sleeve portions. No special directions are
needed for cutting it. All necessary instructions will be
found in the general directions. It will be well to verily
the length of the waist by the tape line and adjust accu-
rately to the person for whom it is made, though change
will seldom be found necessary. Cut the side-back with
its waist line on a cross thread of the goods; cut the col-
lar bias; cut the back with the back edge of its skin and
the other parts with the portions layed lengthwise of the
goods; take up the darts exactly as located ; close the
seams of the two back pieces and that of their extra width
turning the latter to the left in a pleat underneath ; also
fasten the extra width at the side back seams in a fur-
ward turning pleat underneath; join the widest ends of
the collar and sew it to the neck, according to the notches

and roll it and the front over at the line of stars in the

Cut the upper pocket in the left front only, and attach
the small pocket lap; the larger lap is for the lower
pocket, which may not be cut or inserted, unless so de-
sired. Make up and attach the sleeve the same as direct-
ed in ladies' basque. If the garment is made of chevoit,
lace t lie collar and lappel with the material, contuining
the lacing down the front edges of the front underneath ;
finish with machine stitching; out-line a cuff with two
rows of stitching above the buttons on the upper side in
front of the under seam: place two buttons near the top
hi each side-back extra width; if preferred the edges may
be bound, piped or under-faced. One-quarter inch is al-
lowed for seams.

Quantity of material, 22 inches wide, 34 yards; 48 inch,
1 f yards; ~>i inch, H yards. No. buttons 14.




This garment is layed off by the bust measure,
and in accordance with the general directions, lhe

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Online LibraryDoran & Nelson GoldsberryThe National garment cutter → online text (page 1 of 8)