Frank J. (Frank James) Bramhall.

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In Summer Days.







M ichigan CI knt^raIv



1 ,

They come! the merry sumiitrr months of beauty, song and flowers;

They come! tlie ghidsome months that bring: thick leafiness to bowers.

Up, up, my heart, and walk abroad, fling cark and care aside;

Seek silent hills, or rest thyself where peaceful waters gliile ;

Or, underneath the shadow cast of patriarchal trci.

Scan through its leaves the cloudless sky in raut-traMquillitv

^Mji.tiin .M..iiiij.uh


General Pa.ssenc;rr Department.


M ichigan C entral

"The Niagara Falls Route"

From Chicago to New York, 5

Saratoga, Lake George axd the Adirondacks, . .22

From Albany to Boston, 24

To Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec, 28

The St. Lawrence, 33

The White Mountain-s, 38

Mackinac and Northern Michigan, 44

St. Clair, Mount Clemens and South Haven, ... 51

Steamer Connections, . . 52

Index, 55

H. B. Ledyard, E. C. Brown,

I'resideiit and Oen'l Manager, Uen'l Su)>erintendfnt,



Gen'l Tassi ;iiiJ Ticket Ai,-!,


P^K)LE Bros.



The Niagara Falls Route


Five times a day one may see a throng of travelers gathered
within the walls of the Michigan Central Passenger Station, at the
foot of Lake Street, in Chicago, as the hour approaches for one of
the finely appointed express trains of this favorite line to pull out on
its rapid journey to the rising sun. All classes of the population


it4»4e -

are found there and representatives of every nation and every peo-
ple of the globe; but, in the summer-time, from the first appearance
of civic dust and heat, the predominating element is the summer
tourist — quiet, well-dressed, intelligent, knowing the best places to
go to and the best means of getting there. For the American, man


or woman, is a traveler and knows how to travel, and finuing him-
self or herself at that wonderful center of teeming life and in-
dustry, the Garden City of the Lakes, goes eastward by the Mich-
igan Central, "The Niagara Falls Route," to the thousand places of
natural beauty and sublimity, of fashion, of health and of trade, that
crowd the eastern and northern portions of our country. And
grouped here about the long train of superb coaches led by the iron
horse of glossy coat, powerful and quivering in readiness for the
race like a thing of life, the scene is one of interesting activity. The
pyramid of baggage rapidly disappears in the portals of the capa-
cious baggage car; the uniformed conductor shouts "All aboard!"
the last farewells are hastily spoken; the iron horse snorts as he
leaps forward toward the mountains and the sea, and Off We Go.

The traveler usually sees but the seamy side of the cities he
passes through by rail. Not so of Chicago, as he looks through the
clear plate-glass of the Michigan Central Palace Cars. For miles
as he speeds along with accelerated motion, he sees on the one side
the lovely lake, placid, rippled or storm-tossed, according to its vary-
ing moods; on the other, verdant lawns and blooming parterres, pala-
tial mansions and villas half hidden in trees and shrubbery, telling
of the wealth, the luxury and the taste of the wonderful city arisen
from its ashes. Then come the charming suburbs of Hyde Park and
Woodlawn Park, the busy, interesting town of Pullman, on Calumet
Lake, and then the broad expanse of level country. We have a chance
now to look about us, and, though the softlj'-cushioned seats of our
elegant coach, replete with all the comforts and conveniences that in-
genuity can suggest and skill can furnish, woo us to luxurious rest, we
hunger, as do all travelers, and seek tlie Dining Car. We find it a
palatial hotel on wheels, with all its appointments elegant and taste-
ful, scrupulously neat and clean. The accomplished chef prepares,
and the active waiters serve, a sumptuous and admirable meal that
incites us to valiant trencher duty and causes us to marvel at the
moderate charge. We linger long at table, for the pleasure of a good
dinner is enhanced by the charming panorama that glides swiftly
by, and adjourn to the comfortable smoking-room of our palatial
Sleeper to crow n our enjoyment with the reveries of a cigar from
the Dining Car's superbly stocked coffers.

At Michigan City (fifty-eight miles) we get our last picturesque
glimpses of Lake Michigan, bordered by curious lofty sand-dunes,
and with a sturdy looking light-house far out at the entrance of the
harbor. Ten miles farther is New Buffalo (sixty-eight miles),
worthy of note only as the junction of the Chicago & West Mich-
igan Railway, which takes through cars and sleepers of the Michigan

* Mileage given in tliis diaiiter ih frmii OhicHpi,


Central through the great fruit region of Michigan to Grand
Rapids and Muskegon, famous for tlicir furniture factories, plaster
quarries and lumber 3'ards. Passing Buchanan (eighty-eight miles),
whence a branch road runs out ten miles to Berrien Springs, we
soon reach Niles (ninety-four miles), on the St. Josepli River, a hand-
some and well-built city of nearly 5,000 inhabitants, in the midst
of a riih agricultural region. The Air Line Di\ision to Jackson
diverges here and upon it, two miles beyond the town of Cassopolis,
is the delightful summer resort of Diamoiul Lake. From Dowagiac
(107 miles) stages run to Sister Lakes, a very pleasant summer resort,
ten miles from the railroad. As we pass on through Michigan we find
all the way to the Detroit River a more rolling and picturesque
country, full of fine farms, pretty villages and prosperous towns, with
neat stations along the line. The country that the first surveyors
pronounced utterly unfit for settlement and habitation has proved,
under intelligent agriculture, to be of almost marvelous fertility.
Kalamazoo (142 miles), but recently incorporated as a city
with 14,000 inhabitants, is regularly laid out, with

broad, fA isJ'> well-shaded streets, and contains

nany fine business blocks,
nuinerous manufactories
and costly residences.
The spacious and impos-
ing buildings of the
State Lunatic Asylum,
a Baptist College and
Female Seininary are
located here. Nowhere
in the world does cel-
ery grow larger, whiter,
more tender or more
delicate in flavor than in
the deep black soil about
the city, and nowhere is that
toothsome vegetable grown more ex-
tensively. The Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad
crosses the line at this point and a branch of the Michigan Central
runs out forty miles to South Haven, a charming smnmer resort
on the shore of Lake Michigan.

Battle Creek (165 miles) is a well-built city of 10,000 inhabit-
ants, at the confluence of Battle Creek and Kalamazoo River. It is
famous for its splendid water-power and its manufactures — particularly
of carriages, w-agons, threshing machines, agricultural implements


and flour- — which are more extensive than those of any other town
of its size in the world. It is also the headquarters of the Seventh-
Daj Adventists, who have here their large publishing house, printing
books, newspapers and periodicals in a dozen languages, an excellent
college and a magnificent sanitarium of high repute occupying a
noble, elevated site.

Marshall (178 miles) is a pretty little city of 4,000, famous for its
flour, for the valley of the Kalamazoo is a noted wheat region.
Albion (190 miles) is pleasantly located at the confluence of the two
branches of the Kalamazoo in one of the richest farming sections of
the State, ships flour of a high reputation and is the site of an
excellent Methodist Episcopal College. We leave the river at
Parma (199 miles) and in a few minutes stop at Jackson (210 miles),
a busy manufacturing city of over 19,000 people, on the Grand
River, at the intersection of six railroads. One division of the
Michigan Central runs down the valley of this river ninety-four
miles to Grand Rapids, the second city of the State, while another
runs northward, through Lansing, the State capital, to Saginaw,
Bay City and Mackinaw, on the strait of the same name, and a third
forms the Air Line to Niles, running through the thriving towns of
Homer, Union City, Three Rivers and Cassopolis. Through cars
from Detroit run over the former and from Chicago over the
latter. The city is regularly laid out and substantially built. It
lies near the edge of the coal deposits of the State and the
mines can be seen from the cars. The spacious stone buildings of
the State Penitentiary are located here and the Michigan Central
Passenger Station was the finest in the State until the construction of
the company's fine building in Detroit.

Ann Arbor (248 miles) is built on both sides of the Huron River,
has a population of 8,000 and is noted as the site of the University of
Michigan. This is one of the leading institutions of learning in the
west, and with no distinction of sex, very low fees and a high
standard of scholarship, attracts students from all parts of the
country. It has eighty-three professors and 1,380 students in all its
departments. The grounds are extensive and thickly planted with
trees. University Hall is 347 feet long and 140 feet deep and is occu-
pied by the departments of literature, science and art. There are
nuinerous other buildings, including a new fire-proof library, large
and valuable museums and, on a hill a inile distant, a fine observatory.

Ypsilanti (256 miles) is a thriving city of 5,300 inhabitants,
noted for its flour and paper mills and other factories, its valuable
saline springs and excellent sanitarium. The State Normal
School, with nearly eight hundred students, is located here and


liere also many Detroit business men have their suburban homes.
Detroit (2S5 miles) is reached in another hour and the traveler
tinds it a flourishing, prosperous city of 150,000 inhabitants, whose
seven miles of
lined with
with gi-



magnificent water front,

shipping and crowded

gantic elevators,

ing foundries

^ , smoke-

p 1 iimetl


__™__,^ gi^e am-

,l}|l ' \\ j ■ pie reason

for the fine

blocks, imposing
public buildings,
elegant churches and magnificent broad avenues of
palatial residences not always found in cities of more pretension. The
central point of the city, from which the avenues radiate, is the Campus
Martius, where stood the old frontier fort built by Cadillac in 1701 and
in which Pontiac besieged the English for eleven months — surrendered
by Hull and won again by Harrison. Facing it is the City Hall, a
handsome structure in the Italian style, ornamented by marble statues
of men famous in the long and eventful annals of the city. Oppo-
site is a fine monument in granite and bronze to the memory of
Michigan's dead in the war of the rebellion. The guide books state
that "the freight depot of the Michigan Central is one of the most
noteworthy structures in the city. It stands on the wharf and
consists of a single room 1,250 feet long and 102 feet wide, covered
by a self-sustaining roof of corrugated iron." The new Passenger
Station of the same road is probably the finest building of its kind
in the State and is one of the architectural features of the city. The
\ isitor to Detroit should not omit the United States Marine Hospital,
just above the city, which commands a fine view of the Canada shore.
Fort Wayne, a bastioned redoubt on the river bank three miles below
Belle Isle, the city's beautiful island park, and Grosse Point, which
projects into Lake St. Clair seven miles above the city, at the end of
a beautiful drive.

At Detroit close connection is made in the company's magnifi-
cent Passenger Station at the foot of Third Street with its Bay City
and Mackinaw Divisions, which run 290 miles northward to the
straits, the Toledo Division bringing more passengers from St. Louis,
Cincinnati and the South, and with the Flint c*i: Pere Marquette and


Detroit, Lansing ilv: Northern roads, which traverse the State to the
northwestward. Here anotlier Palace Sleeping Car for New York
or for Boston is attached to the long and heavy train that our un-
wearying courser pulls along with seeming ease. On gigantic ferry-
boats of steel, propelled by the most powerful engines, we cross the
great river, picturesque Avith its busy craft, and find ourselves in Can-
ada. The officers of Her Majesty's Customs pass through the cars,
but their sole duty seems that of hurriedly but courteously affixing to
each piece of baggage the little label that passes it free of search or
duly through Her INIajesty's loyal Dominion. Wonderful speed we
make here over the long tangents, but so smooth are the

steel rails and so perfect is the construction of

the cars, that we find no unpleasant
jarring as we read our paper or our
book. And, however great the
speed, there is the utmost safety.
The Michigan Central has always
enjoyed a singular immunity from
serious accidents — an immunity
due not merely to good luck, but
to perfect construction, admirable
discipline and incessant Avatchful-
ness. Science has invented a hun-
dred curious automatic devices that
^ btand between us and danger and the
vigilance of the man at the throttle is
unabated. At St. Thomas (39S miles),
a busy, prosperous and attractive city with a population of about
12,000, and the junction with the St. Clair Division of the Michigan
Central, the Toronto sleeper we have carried from Chicago is taken
by the Canadian Pacific and carried to Toronto, the Ontario metrop-
olis. Here it connects with a magnificent Parlor Car running
through, via Peterborough and Ottawa and down the wild-rushing
Ottawa River to Montreal, and also with other cars for that wild
and lovely region of the Muskoka Lakes, a very paradise for the
angler, the sportsman and the lover of the untamed beauties of nature.
Meanwhile, by day or by night, we hasten onward to meet again
the waters we saw at Chicago's front, and flowing majestically past
Michigan's chief city, Detroit. At Hagersville (457 miles), a neat
little town of i,aoo inhabitants, connection is made with the North-
ern and Northwestern Railwa^ys for Hamilton and points North. At
Welland (498 miles) we cross the famous ship canal which has made
possible the carriage of grain from Chicago to Liverpool without


breaking bulk, and, seeing the lumbering old craft in its basins, in-
wardly contrast the old with the new. Ten miles farther the Michigan
Central has very extensive yards at Montrose (508 miles) where is
handled the immense quantity of freight brought into and through
Canada h\- the Niagara frontier.







"In a few minutes," writes Col. Donan, "the conductor calls:
'Falls View!' and one of the grandest scenes on earth bursts upon
the gaze of a train-load of delighted passengers. The mighty river
of blue-green waters surging and dashing and tossing its white arms
of foam amid the mad rapids, then shuddering on the brink of the
awful precipice, and plunging headlong into the yawning chasm
below. The whirling and swirling of the floods. The thunderous


roar that shakes the solid earth. The vast sheets of spray and mist
and the sunbeams that, cauglit in their liquid meshes, die like aerial
dolphins in a blaze of many-tinted pain. The rainbow that casts its
resplendent arch across the majestic cafion. The glorious Horse-
shoe, the American Falls, and all the lesser divisions of creation's
greatest cataract. The tiny green islands that look as if any moment
might see them swept down into the dizzy depths. An ocean pour-
ing over rocky battlements into a bottomless hell of waters. And
through and over it all the everlasting thunder of the falling flood.

"The Michigan Central is the only real 'Niagara Falls Route'
in the country. It is the only railroad that gives a satisfactory view of
the Falls. Every train stops from five to ten minutes at Falls View,
which is what the name indicates — a splendid point from which to
view the great cataract. It is right on the brink of the grand cafion,
at the Canadian end of the Horseshoe, and every part of the Falls is in
plain sight. So long as the waters of that mighty river thunder
down to the awful depths below, so long as the rush and roar, the
surge and foam and prismatic spray of nature's cataractic masterpiece
•remain, to delight and awe the human soul, thousands and tens of
thousands of beauty-lovers and grandeur-worshipers will journey
over the only railroad from which it can be seen. There is but one
Niagara Falls on earth and but one direct great railway to it."

At Falls View the Michigan Central will soon erect a building of
large proportions and of an architectural character entirely in har-
mony with its purpose and surroundings that will add. greatly to the
convenience and enjoyment of travelers. This place was formerly
known as Inspiration Point and of the scene from it Howells wrote:
" By all odds, the most tremendous view of the Falls is aflforded by
the point on this drive (from the Clifton House to the Burning Spring),
whence you look down on the Horseshoe and behold its three
massive walls of sea rounding and sweeping into the gulf together."

"After leaving Falls View the train sweeps along the edge of the
mighty chasm to Suspension Bridge, giving constant and ever-chang-
ing views of the cataract and the surging, boiling river, as it madly
rushes and rages between the perpendicular walls of stone, three
hundred feet high, that form the great cafion of Niagara."

A little way down the river is Niagara Falls, Ont. (511 miles),
where, on a bold projection of the river bank, is the Clifton House,
from which very extensive and impressive views are obtained of the
whole amphitheater and its rocky and aqueous walls. Just before
reaching this station the traveler who is on the lookout for it catches
a most charming glimpse of the snowy American Fall through the
leafy vista of a sunken road. From a point near the Clifton stretches



the gossamer thread of a suspension foot-hridge 1,268 feet long to
the American side of the river and of the views from which
1 lowells gives an admirable description in Their Wedding 'jfoitriiey.
A short distance below the station is Wesley Park, a kind of Can-
adian or International Chautauqua. From Falls View to CliktoN
(512.:; miles) the road passes alon'i^and through the International Park


now being laid out by the Canadian commissioners. Here diverges
the Niagara Division of the Michigan Central, which runs down the
river to Niagara at its mouth and there connects with steamers
across Lake Ontario to Toronto. One of the most charming outings
for the citizens of Bulfalo or sojourners there is had by taking one of
the double dailv trains on this Niagara Division at the Union Depot or
Black Rock, crossing the International Bridge and following the



Canadian shore of the river, passing Chippewa and Lundy's Lane,
stopping at Falls View, following the river canon to the Cantilever
Bridge at Clifton, then making a detour through the hills to Queens-
ton, within sight of Brock's monument on the heights, and finally
taking the delightful sail across the lake to Toronto.

Continuing the main line we cross the canon of Niagara River two
hundred and fifty feet above "the angriest bit of water in the world"
by the Cantilever Bridge, one of the most famous triumphs of modern
engineering skill and daring. It is 895 feet in length, built wholly of
thoroughly tested steel, and, slight as it is in appearance, sustained
upon its double tracks, when tested, the enormous weight of eighteen
locomotives and twenty-four heavily loaded gravel cars with a tempo-
rary deflection of but six inches. In passing over it there is a mag-


- ^ 'si/ .





nificent view of the Falls, the Rapids and the rocky walls between
which the surging waters pour, while below is seen the Lower
Rapids and the Suspension Bridge.

At Suspension Bridge (513 miles) connection is made with the
Niagara Falls Division of the New York Central, running to
Rochester, via Lockport, and with the Rome, Watertown & Ogdens-
burg Railroad, whose Sleeping Cars run through from Niagara Falls
to Clayton, near the head of the St. Lawrence, Fabyans, in the heart of
the White Mountains, and Portland, on the sea-shore. An attractive
little village has grown up here, with several good hotels and a sani-
tarium of merit, and a horse railroad has been constructed to the
Whirlpool, a mile or two down the river. Leaving the station, the
train backs down on a Y and then runs up the river to Niagara


Falls station (515 miles), sometimes so close to the edge th;it one
may look down upon the madly turbulent waters far below and get fine
viev.s ot' the Cantilever Bridge, the American and Horseshoe Falls
and the foaming amphitheater into which they pour. As on the
Canadian side, the road skirts the new International Park which the
State of New York, now being seconded by the Dominion, has, with
wise liberality and an expenditure of a million and a half of dollars,
made free to the world for all time to come. The American por-
tion of the park embraces some three hundred acres. Unsightly
buildings have been removed and the surrounding shores are
gradually retaking the wild natural beauty they wore when Hen-
nepin first gazed upon them two hundred years ago. Howells has
graphically described 'the village as well as the falls in Their
Wedding Journey., with which every tourist to Niagara should be
fainiliar, and we will not linger here. Passing on, glimpses are had
of the white-capped rapids and green islands, with the clouds of
spray rising in the background; of the ri\or above widening out
until the distant shores lose their sharpness of outline and distinct,
ness of color, with its broad placid bosom giving no token of the
irresistible power of its current, nor of the fate to which it so
smoothly glides; of fine farms, prolific orchards, neat villages and
prosperous looking homesteads. At Tonawaxda (526 miles) the
Erie Canal is crossed, and soon we pass the International Truss
Bridge of the Fort Erie Division of the Michigan Central, the model
water-works, the commodious harbor at the head of the ri\cr and
enter the city of i Buffalo, halting in the splen-

did Union Depot on Ex-
change Street, 536 miles
ti om our starting point.
Our entrance into
Bufl^lo is a fit pend-
ant to our departure
from Chcago. We
^ee nothing of the
squalor of the city, if it
exists, lint only cheerful \-iIlas,
broad pkasanccs and blooming par-
terres on the terraced heights on one side,
on the other the broad harbor out of which
Niagara tlows, picturesque with its shipping and the delicate blue of
the lake! stretching into an horizon of turquoise and amethyst.
Bufi:alo is the third city in size in the State and contains about
250,000 population. It is well and handsoinely built, and is famed




for its extensive lake commerce, for its gigantic elevators through
which run unfailing rivers of grain, for its manufactin^es of metals,
for its malt and beer, and as the converging point of ten diiferent
lines of railway. Within the huge carapace of the depot, which
seems alive with puffing of engines, transfers of baggage, bustle of
passengers ever coming and going, close connection is made with the
New York Central isi Hudson River, the only four-track railroad
in the world, the West Shore, and the Buffalo, Rochester it Pitts-
burgh roads. Two of the Central's tracks are set apart for the
immense freight traffic of the line and two for the passenger trains
that fly over the steel rails with lightning speed, yet with perfect
safety, and the traveler soon feels that his chance of realizing on his
accident insurance policy is too slight to be thought of. The Sleeping
Cars leaving Chicago for Syracuse, Boston and New York run

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Online LibraryFrank J. (Frank James) BramhallIn summer days → online text (page 1 of 5)